The old sewing machine does not sew. Sewing machine repair

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Very often, when sewing, there are problems with the sewing machine and many novice seamstresses do not know how to fix the problem. Let's look at the most common causes of malfunction. For example, let's take a working sewing machine (industrial, single-line). All machines are generally the same, whether they are household or industrial in design, and you will find identically similar parts on all of them. We do not take into account modern machines with software control and breakdowns associated with the electrical part of the machine.

? If the needle is in the machine, when working, it knocks on the fabric, like a machine gun fire.

the answer is that the tip of the needle is simply lost or bent. In this case, you need to replace the needle.

? The bottom line is ugly, there are loops and loops.

The answer is that the upper thread tension is too loose. You need to check the top thread. This thread should run with slight tension. It can be changed using the upper thread tension regulator, indicated by an arrow (see photo 1). In this case, you need to increase the tension until the loops go away.

?The top stitching is ugly, there are loops and loops.

The answer is that the bobbin thread tension is too loose. The lower thread should come out of the bobbin case with a slight tension, which can be adjusted with small bolts (arrow photo 3). On household sewing machines there is usually one such bolt on the bobbin case, but I have two.

? During operation, the lower thread often breaks, especially at high sewing speeds.

The answer is that you need to make a fabric gasket in the bobbin case. To do this, you need to take a thin fabric and cut out a circle with a hole of the required size from it so that you can put it in the bobbin case (see photo 2). For better bobbin glide, you need to drop 1-2 drops of machine oil onto the fabric. If the thread begins to pull out of the bobbin case too tightly, then the spacer should be made of thinner fabric.

? When working, the top thread often breaks.

answer - a very common cause in this case is a knocked down or blunt needle. It needs to be replaced. Check the top thread, it may come out too tightly from the bowls. Move the plates apart and look to see if there are threads stuck there or just loosen the tension on the top thread. Using an industrial machine, you can rub the moving edge (nose of the shuttle), marked in the photo, with sandpaper; perhaps there are jagged marks from the needle, which the thread clings to and then breaks (see photo 4). If the thread breaks often and on all types of fabrics and none of the above helps, then you need to show the machine to the master; perhaps you need to reconfigure the shuttle device. Without certain knowledge, I do not recommend doing this.

? Sometimes the thread winder does not wind onto the bobbin. The bobbin spins, but the thread does not wind.

answer - if this happens on only one bobbin, then you can put some threads so that the bobbin is more tightly located on the axis. If this happens to all bobbins, then you can use a screwdriver to slightly expand the gap on the axle (see photo 5). Then all the bobbins will fit more tightly. I would like to note that the thread from the spool should also go to the winder with a slight tension, which is changed with the tension regulator.

? There are skipped stitches in the machine stitching.

answer - if this happens only on one specific type of fabric, then it is most likely that the machine does not “take” this fabric well. This often happens on knitted fabrics. To avoid this, you need to use a special needle for knitted fabrics, which has a rounded tip. This needle does not pierce the fabric, but simply pushes its threads apart. And also my advice, proven by experience. If the machine still makes gaps, then you can cut thin strips of paper, preferably tracing paper, and when sewing, put it under the machine stitching - there will be no more gaps. Then remove the paper.

Stitch skips can also occur if the thickness of the machine needle and thread is incorrectly selected.

The machine may also make mistakes due to a knocked down, dull needle. The needle needs to be replaced. If the machine uses a needle with a round base, then you can slightly turn the needle to a different position (a little to the left or to the right) until it starts to sew well. In household machines, the edge at the base of the needle is cut off.

If none of the above helps and if there are gaps on all types of fabrics, then you need to show the machine to the master. The shuttle may need to be reconfigured.

? The machine does not advance the fabric well.

The answer is that you may need to clean the teeth; to do this you need to unscrew the plate. Another reason is that you may need to add presser foot pressure, and vice versa for large thicknesses.

SEWING MACHINE MAINTENANCE

In sewing machines with automatic oil lubrication, you need to monitor the oil level and do not forget to add it on time. When using the machine every day, you need to lubricate all the necessary places, according to the instructions.

More often you need to unscrew the plate and clean the teeth; lint often gets stuck there.

TAKEN FROM THE INTERNET

Even the most expensive, reliable and high-quality sewing machine, like any equipment, can start to work incorrectly or stop altogether. Moreover, a Chinese single-thread machine is prone to breakdowns. Let's figure out why the sewing machine doesn't sew and how to fix it.

Common Problems

The sewing machine has stopped sewing. Whether it's manual or motorized, you may encounter the following manifestations of this breakdown.

1. The bobbin or upper thread does not feed. The stitch is “short” - there are not enough threads in the seam. Zigzag sewing doesn't work at all.
2. The fabric does not move as the stitches are sewn. Those, in turn, are layered on top of each other, instead of a seam a tangled ball is formed, the threads are wasted.
3. The foot does not work: it is impossible to raise/lower it.
4. The motor runs, the drive shaft rotates, but the needle bar does not move or has stopped working. Sewing has stopped.
5. The machine shows no signs of life - the engine does not fire, the display does not light up and does not display information about the operating mode. The work doesn't start.
6. Crunching, crackling, malfunction of mechanisms, sudden “jerking” of the smooth and smooth running of the machine. Reducing the speed of fabric stitching, which lengthens the time spent on fast and precise actions.
7. The machine works, but periodically stops closer to the middle of the seam or immediately after it begins to lay it along the layers of fabric.
8. The machine tries to reach the stated speed even when the foot pedal is fully pressed, but it moves forward with difficulty.

Some faults are grouped together for a common reason for their occurrence. Others, on the contrary, have various reasons.

Causes

Some reasons depend on the differences between a particular model and others - even, at first glance, compatible ones. So, the thread is not picked up from the shuttle by the needle, the seam does not work due to:

• wear of the shuttle tip, incorrect adjustment (or detuning);
• failure of the spatial movement of the shuttle;
• the presence of nicks on the bobbin cap;
• incorrect setting of the needle friction mechanism (too high or too low);
• beveled screw holding the bobbin;
• desynchronization of the operation of the lower section of the machine and the needle bar.

Most likely, the mechanism itself is faulty. To service it, it is recommended to contact a sewing equipment repair service center.

Malfunctions of the unit responsible for guiding the needle are as follows:

• needle and fabric are incompatible (thin needle for thick fabric and vice versa);
• choosing a needle with a cut-off bulb for an industrial machine with a needle holder without a cut-off (and vice versa);
• The flask size is too small (it is impossible to pinch the needle, it slips out);
• crooked or blunt needle;
• the thread is thicker than the needle, the movement is difficult (the thread breaks, the needle bends and eventually breaks).

The jerky movement of the fabric is due to the following. When the gap in the needle plate is unnaturally widened and worn out, the entire area of ​​tissue puncture is pulled inward along with the needle. This prevents the shuttle from working correctly, and the seam ends up not containing all the stitches.

It is necessary to check and, if necessary, re-adjust the correct position of the stapler bar teeth.

When the rack and needle are out of sync, the fabric wrinkles, the lower thread is not pushed into the stitches, but the upper thread can be over-tightened and torn. In some cases, the bottom thread may break and stop flowing into the stitcher; as a result, the seam turns out to be single-thread, simplified, easily unravels and does not hold the layers of fabric. The use of threads of different thicknesses is unacceptable. A thicker thread is more difficult to set, which is why the seam has a flaw - missing lower loops.

Ideally, the bottom thread should be slightly thinner, not thicker than the top thread and have more stretch. Excessively twisted threads will also cause skipping stitches and loops - they are poorly grabbed by the shuttle.

Remedies

If the sewing machine does not pick up the lower thread due to an imbalance, adjust the mechanism by setting the correct distance between the needle and the tip of the hook. Do the following.

1. Turn on straight stitching.
2. Remove the needle plate.
3. Set the needle to its lowest position.
4. Raise the needle gradually by turning the drive. In this case, the tip of the shuttle should pass 1.5 mm above the hole in the needle. The distance between the needle tip and the tip of the shuttle should be on average 0.175 mm. These settings are adjusted using the shuttle screw.

On older devices - "PMZ", "Podolsk" and "Chaika" the same calibration is performed in the zigzag stitch mode. The distance between the needle hole and the shuttle tip is determined when the needle passes left and right through the fabric.

The following method for eliminating the same malfunction will help you navigate more precisely.

Malfunction	What should be done
The thread wound on the bobbin is too weak or too tight. The tension should be checked manually or using a test seam.	Make sure the bobbin is inserted correctly. Adjust the tension using the screw near or within the shuttle mechanism.
The needle bar moved to the side when sewing.	Check that the upper thread is not over-tightened.
The shuttle moves with noticeable effort, some stitches on the seam are missing, and the thread from below is not always caught.	Clean the shuttle from thread scrapings that impede its movement.
The fabric gets pulled into the space (under the panel), causing the shuttle to frequently jam.	Replace a blunt and/or bent needle. It cannot quickly penetrate matter.
Weak, sagging loops on the back side of the stitch. The shuttle doesn't work smoothly.	Replace faulty shuttle parts. It often gets stuck due to burrs, oxidation and microcracks.

Fault prevention

1. Place the machine on a stable table, console or other support where the stability and horizontal plane are maintained.
2. Select a needle and thread that matches the fabric you are sewing. Insert and securely fix the needle.
3. Thread the spools of thread according to the instructions. Do not break the sequence of drawing the threads. For example, first the upper thread passes through the tensioner, and then through the lower guide (to the needle bar) - and not vice versa. Also, install the bobbin correctly in the shuttle compartment.
4. Leave a 15-centimeter “tail” of both threads and move them to the side. This is necessary for a quality start and continuation of the seam.
5. Turn on the machine, insert a test piece and try to make a seam. It should be smooth and without sagging loops on the reverse side.
6. Use smooth and elastic threads. If they are too fleecy and twisted, over time they will simply wear down the eye of the needle, make it more “broken”, and the needle will break faster.
7. The machine runs out (runs down) of the mechanism until the next lubrication. The instructions indicate, for example, an interval of 5000 hours. Electronic machines can be equipped with a “timer” function that tracks the total operating time of the motor and drive. It replaces the electromechanical analogue of a motor clock (or a prototype of a tape-recording roller counter), which could have been used in old machines of the 20th century. Do not ignore the specified regularity of cleaning and lubrication - pay attention to this.

Compliance with these precautions is the key to the durability and trouble-free operation of the product.

For information on what to do if your sewing machine skips stitches, see below.

Sewing machine malfunctions can be detected by external signs. For example, skipped stitches appeared or the upper thread began to loop at the bottom, or the sewing machine began to “knock” during operation. Suddenly the fabric began to move poorly or the needle often broke, etc. It is much more difficult to determine the cause of the malfunctions that appear and even more difficult to eliminate them, to repair the sewing machine yourself.

In this video you will learn the reason for the expensive repair of a sewing machine caused by a broken toothed drive belt. You will also learn recommendations on how to avoid this sewing machine breakdown.

To make it easier for you to find a breakdown, we offer a brief overview of the main faults and the reasons for their occurrence, as well as a selection of site articles devoted to these issues. But, before you figure out why a sewing machine or overlocker does not sew or sews poorly, you need to make sure that this model of sewing machine is operated in accordance with its technical characteristics, including eliminating the use of materials, fabrics, threads, needles not specified in the passport or manufacturer's instructions. Let’s also agree that the threading is done correctly and other basic requirements are met, for example, the seamstress does not pull the fabric towards herself with her hand, etc.

1. Sewing machine malfunctions can be grouped into three groups

All emerging malfunctions and malfunctions in the operation of sewing machines can be divided into three main groups: violations of stitch formation; poor quality stitching; malfunctions in the operation of components and mechanisms.
Disturbances in the stitch formation process: skip stitches; stitch length instability; top thread breakage; broken bottom thread, etc.
Poor quality stitching: stitch landing; tightening the material in the line; "oblique" line; poor-quality trimming of fabric edges (overlock); poor-quality tightening of threads into a stitch (looping), etc.
Malfunction of machine devices and mechanisms: "heavy" movement of the machine; increased noise during operation; "jamming"; damage to the needle and other parts.

According to these three groups, we will consider possible malfunctions, from the point of view of the reasons for their occurrence, and, accordingly, ways to eliminate them. You can read the entire article, this information will not be superfluous for you. Or you can immediately find the group of reasons you need with detailed recommendations. At the end of each section there is a list of articles, to one degree or another, devoted to these malfunctions. It is important to understand that finding the causes of sewing machine malfunctions is intuitive. Various kinds of recommendations can only be used as a guide to the direction of the search. An experienced master does not use a “smart” book, he relies only on practice.

2. Reasons for violations of stitch formation in a line

Skipped stitches. The most common reason for stitch skipping in any sewing machine is the lack of a “confident” grip of the needle thread loop by the nose of the hook or loopers. Adjusting this parameter of a sewing machine always requires experience, especially with overlockers. The formation of a loop near the eye of the needle occurs when the needle is raised from the lower position by approximately 1.8 - 2.3 mm. The nose of the shuttle or looper should at this moment pass just above the eye of the needle and almost close to the needle blade. Since it is not always possible to perform high-quality settings for these parameters yourself, we only recommend checking them. This will allow you to determine that the cause of the skipped stitches may be due to another problem.
The occurrence of a skip may be influenced by the compensation spring.
Blunt nose of the shuttle.
When the thread number does not match the needle eye size (thread is too thick).
Large (broken) needle plate hole.
For thin fabric, a needle that is too thick is used.
The needle in the needle bar is loose.
The needle is not installed correctly.
The appearance of excessive play in the components and mechanisms of the machine.
Defective needle.

Broken upper and lower thread. The most common causes of thread breakage can be: thread abrasion; cutting thread with sharp edges of parts; thread rupture due to pinching, overlapping, etc. To detect places where the thread breaks, you need to inspect the entire route of the thread (you can use a magnifying glass). Probable causes of thread abrasion may be: the roughness of the thread guides and surfaces in contact with the thread in the area where it breaks; too much thread tension; decrease in the strength of the thread due to its unwinding. See also:
Reasons for skipping stitches on a sewing machine
Sewing stitch - thread breakage
Industrial sewing machine 1022 class
Sewing machine problems
Do-it-yourself repair and adjustment of overlockers
How does a sewing shuttle work?

Tight stitch. The stitching is pulled together most often due to excessive tension on the top thread and too little pressure of the presser foot on the fabric. First adjust the tension of the lower thread, then set the correct tension of the upper thread. The interweaving of the top and bottom threads of the stitch should be inside the fabric. Adjust the presser foot pressure so that when the presser foot is lowered and the teeth of the feed are raised (the needle is above the presser foot), the fabric can only be pulled out with noticeable force. A rough surface of the presser foot (worn out) can also cause the fabric to pull together in the stitching. The stitching will tighten if the worn teeth of the rack do not advance the fabric well. Therefore, it is not recommended to set the sewing machine in motion with the presser foot down and without fabric.

Fabric tightening. May occur when the fabric motor and needle malfunction. It is difficult to adjust such a breakdown on your own, but you can check it. The teeth of the rack should completely lower ("hide") at the moment when the needle almost approaches the needle plate (1.5 -2.0 mm).

Poor quality cutting of fabric with overlocker. Dull overlock knives do not cut fabric well, which leads to gaps and permanent stitch tightening. A characteristic dull knock when the overlocker is operating indicates that the knives and needle have become dull.

Poor quality stitching. The so-called “loop”, as well as oblique stitching, is formed due to excess top thread. As a rule, the reason for this is the appearance of roughness along the path of the upper thread or a violation of the shuttle stroke settings (Chaika sewing machine). See also:
Why does the line loop?
Sewing machine feet
Sewing threads, which ones are better?
How to thread a sewing machine
Seagull sewing machine
Setting up a sewing machine. Reika - fabric advancement
Overlock 51 class

4. Malfunction of the components and mechanisms of the sewing machine

Heavy running of the sewing machine. Most often this is caused by a lack of lubrication, clogging of the shuttle mechanism with tow, thread trimmings. Often, heavy running of the machine may occur after replacing the electric drive belt. A belt that is too tight makes it difficult for the sewing machine to rotate easily and causes parts to make noise during operation. Excessive tightening of fasteners and connections of machine parts also makes it difficult for them to rotate.

The sewing machine jams. Sewing machine jamming can occur after long-term storage of the machine. If the machine has not been used for a long time, it is recommended to lubricate it first, and then operate the sewing machine without thread for several minutes. Using the wrong oil will also cause the sewing machine mechanisms to jam. Some types of oils can dry out over time, especially at high temperatures. They turn from oil into glue, which most often becomes noticeable after a long period of “downtime”. Rarely, parts can break down, leading to malfunction of the machine.

Needle breakage. Needle breakage usually occurs due to inept seamstress work. The fabric should not be pulled towards you by hand. Correctly adjust the presser foot pressure on the fabric and the lifting height of the dog teeth, and you will no longer need to “help” the machine with your hand. When sewing coarse fabrics, a needle that is too thin is used. A needle is used that is not intended for this model of sewing machine. The needle is not inserted into the needle bar all the way. The needle is not centered on the plate's needle hole. See also:
Reasons for a broken needle on a sewing machine
Sewing machine lubrication
Electric sewing machine drive
Flywheel - Singer
How does a sewing pedal work?
How to replace an electric drive

This article contains all the typical and simple faults and repair methods for a sewing machine.

How does a modern household electric sewing machine work? Basic malfunctions of components and mechanisms.

This article contains expert advice on how to independently disassemble a modern household sewing machine from Brother, Janome, etc.

Such a “trifle” as winding thread on a bobbin often creates a lot of inconvenience when sewing. For some reason, it is not always possible to do this quickly and “without problems.” Let's figure out why it is sometimes difficult to wind thread onto a bobbin and what needs to be done to fix minor damage to the winder.

It's rare, but sometimes you can find foot-operated machines. The best solution, instead of repairing the foot drive, is to install an electric drive on the machine. This is not difficult to do and anyone with a screwdriver can install it with their own hands. But, if you still need recommendations on how to repair or adjust the foot drive, this article is at your service.

The main malfunctions and malfunctions of these sewing machines, as a rule, are not related to its adjustment. Sometimes it is enough to install the needle correctly, replace low-quality threads, select the correct tension of the lower and upper threads, and the machine will work perfectly again.

If the foot drive is, one might say, a complete antique, then the manual drive can be used, especially for beginners learning to sew. Read this article to learn how to repair this device yourself.

Sewing machine faults and problems It will be easier to fix if you understand how the sewing machine works and which part is used for what. Study carefully the structure of your machine according to the instructions or using our article.

Why did a modern household sewing machine suddenly start skipping stitches? The sewing machine repairman explains.

Many who have tried to sew knitwear on a regular sewing machine have noticed that the machine often refuses to make a beautiful and even stitch. Gaps form in the knitted stitching, the bottom thread loops, and sometimes breaks. Why does this happen and how can I fix it?

Firstly, for sewing knitted fabrics, a special knitting machine is used, it is called a flat-stitch machine - an open stitch machine or a chain stitch machine. The seam on the reverse side looks like a “pigtail”. Look at any factory processing of a T-shirt and you will see this.

Secondly, for sewing sections of knitted fabric, a knitted overlocker is used, which has a differential (stretching fabric) rake with simultaneous laying of a sewing chain stitch.

And thirdly, special needles and threads are used for sewing knitwear. The last point is decisive for your sewing machine, so let's figure out which needle you need to sew knitwear, what threads you need to use to get a high-quality stitch, and consider other factors that affect the quality of the stitching.

Needles for sewing knitted fabrics

There are many reasons that affect the quality of the stitch formed when sewing knitwear. One of them is an incorrectly selected needle. Universal needles, which are most often used on sewing machines, are “poorly” suited for sewing knitwear. Not only can the sharp edge of the needle damage the weave of the knitted fabric, but it can also cause the loop near the eye of the needle to be too small. And the nose of the shuttle simply passes by it without catching the top thread. As a result, gaps appear.

Replace the utility needle with a special needle with a rounded point designed for sewing such fabrics. A needle with such a point does not pierce the knitted fibers, but passes between them and creates better conditions for the formation of a loop. The packaging with these needles says “Jersy”, and “ball point” means that the needles have a rounded point.

However, you should know that buying a package of special knitting needles does not always solve the problem, especially for old-type sewing machines such as Podolskaya or Chaika. There are a number of other factors, which will be discussed below.

This diagram shows a knitted weave of stretch fabrics. Outwardly, it resembles knitting or machine knitting, which is why it is called knitted fabric. “Springy” loops give fabrics many useful qualities, such as stretchability, low creasing, etc., but at the same time they create certain difficulties when sewing them on ordinary household sewing machines.

Threads for knitted fabrics and their tension

Not a single lockstitch machine likes to sew knitwear. Knitwear for a lockstitch sewing machine is a test that not all machines can withstand. True, modern household machines cope with this task quite well, provided that certain requirements are met. As you already understand, one of them is high-quality thread and its correct tension.

Sewing threads should be thin, elastic and durable. Basically, all types of modern threads available for sale in the accessories department correspond to these parameters. But, nevertheless, you need to experimentally determine which type of thread is best suited for your machine.

Naturally, you need to “forget” about thick finishing threads, and even more so about threads from your grandmother’s old stocks. Ideally, threads on large conical bobbins are suitable for sewing knitwear, but since they are quite expensive, use threads on small bobbins, such as “Ideal”.

Before sewing knitwear, you need to correctly adjust the tension of the upper and lower threads.

Typically, the bobbin thread should not be adjusted, but when sewing knitwear, this can often eliminate thread looping in the stitching. If, when you tighten the top thread, the looping at the bottom does not stop, then try to slightly loosen the tension on the bottom thread.

Please note that when you sew pieces of knitted fabric, the stitching will be looser in one direction (usually transverse). This “effect” cannot be eliminated using tension. It’s just that the knitwear stretches under the influence of the foot and the teeth of the rake, and then takes its previous shape and the stitches are loosened. By the way, the presser foot pressure also needs to be adjusted.

To eliminate this, use stabilizers (gaskets), including pre-cut strips from newspaper. A paper strip is placed under the fabric, and then carefully pulled out of the seam. By the way, often just such a “cunning” method can eliminate gaps in the stitching of a Podolskaya or Chaika sewing machine.

But, naturally, this is too extravagant a method that is undesirable to use. If you have replaced the needles and selected the threads, adjusted the tension, but the looping and skipping have not disappeared, then you need to adjust the sewing machine. But only an experienced craftsman can set it up for sewing knitted fabric.

What is the difference between knitted overlock

Almost all modern household overlockers are knitted overlockers. The main difference between a knitted overlocker and a regular one is that a knitted overlocker has a special rack design (teeth under the foot). During operation, the lath specifically compresses (stretches) the knitted fabric, and after stitching, the fabric is stretched (pulled) back. As a result, the seam is stretchable and can withstand more tensile load.

For example, if you sew knitted fabric on a regular machine, and at the same time tighten the thread tension strongly to eliminate the slack in the stitching, you will get a very beautiful stitch, but not strong. Pull this area with your hands and your beautiful seam will simply burst. This is the main purpose of knitting machines - to create an elastic and stretchable seam.

Overlockers with a differential rake can sew not only knitwear. This function can be easily disabled using a special knob. And even, on the contrary, you can “force” the rail to collect the fabric. You need to know that overlockers of older models, including class 51 overlockers, cannot efficiently process knitted fabrics. And don’t be surprised if the connecting seams of knitted clothing, processed only with a three-thread overlocker, will burst over time.

Other reasons why the machine does not sew knitwear

Well, one last thing. A Podolsk sewing machine or a Chaika sewing machine often refuses to sew knitwear at all. And even a master cannot always set it up for sewing knitted fabric. If you want to check the work of a sewing machine repairman, ask him to sew a piece of the most “harmful” knitted fabric at the end of the job. If the line does not have even one omission, it means that this is a “good” and experienced master.

Older machines have different adjustments for the interaction between the needle and the nose of the shuttle. After all, at the time when they were released, no one suspected that such fabrics would be used all the time. Therefore, modern machines are configured for sewing knitwear, but old machines need to be reconfigured.

How to sew knitted fabrics on a regular sewing machine

How to sew knitwear without an opener on a household machine