The best single speed single speed bike. Choice of frame material Bicycles with aluminum frame - durable or not

From the translator

When I was going to write an article about properties different materials for frames - I found an article by John Olsen on the Internet about frames made of various materials. It seemed interesting to me and did not contradict my concepts of strength (after all, I am a specialist in the strength and durability of aircraft structures by education, I worked for several years in the aircraft strength laboratory at KuAI). The language of the article seemed quite understandable to me for a non-specialist, which is also a big plus. To be honest, I didn’t look for a translation on the Russian-language Internet (maybe there already is one) and translated the article myself. Olsen covered most of the problems that I was going to write about - I don’t see the point in repeating what has already been written and, in my opinion, is quite understandable, sensible and fair. The article does not mention the terms “specific strength” and “specific stiffness” that are accepted among specialists ", meaning the ratio of strength or stiffness values ​​to the density of the material, and characterizing how strong (or rigid) the material is per unit weight, but it is indirectly made clear that these characteristics were taken into account by the designers. And one more point - it is necessary to distinguish when We are talking about the strength (rigidity) of the material, and when - about the same properties of the structure. In the structure (frame), to increase strength and rigidity, the diameter of the pipes is increased, their cross-sectional shape is changed, different (including variable along the length of the pipe) wall thicknesses are used, etc. - and all this - to compensate for the insufficient properties of the material. On the other hand, a larger diameter pipe usually weighs more than an identical one of a smaller diameter and made of the same material - but the larger pipe is stiffer. There are also technological factors not covered in this article (ease of processing, weldability, etc.), but influencing the choice of the designer. For my part, I decided to write an article about the differences in the properties of aluminum alloys 6061, 7005 and 7075.

Introduction

The stiffness, weight and strength of bicycle frames are determined by many factors, only some of which are determined solely by the properties of the material. The optimal frame design for one material will be different from the optimal for another because materials vary greatly in strength, stiffness, and density (weight).
The best aluminum frames have thick, thin-walled tubes and don't flex from side to side as you accelerate. The best steel frames have thin-walled, small-diameter tubes and flex noticeably when accelerating. Titanium and carbon fiber (carbon) frames are in the middle between them.
Experienced cyclists are often divided into two camps, with steel framers criticizing the excessive rigidity of aluminum frames and their fans decrying the flexibility of lightweight steel frames. We'll explain the advantages and disadvantages of most frame materials and compare them in a graph showing how stiff they are compared to steel.

How stiff is your bike?

Comparison of stiffness (relative to steel) for different frame materials

Reynolds 853 Steel Alloy - Steel alloy Reynolds 853
1010 Steel Alloy - Steel alloy 1010
Unidirectional Carbon/Epoxy - Unidirectional carbon fiber based on epoxy resin
6Al/4V Titanium Alloy - Titanium alloy 6Al/4V
3Al/2.5V Titanium Alloy - Titanium alloy 3Al/2.5V
7075 Aluminum Alloy - Aluminum alloy 7075
6061 Aluminum Alloy - Aluminum alloy 6061
Carbon Weave/Epoxy - Carbon fiber reinforced plastic with woven structure based on epoxy resin

Steel

The steel is hard, but dense (heavy). Light frames of adequate stiffness and strength are made from relatively small diameter tubing, but steel is not a suitable material for light frames or large, powerful riders. Low-strength steel frames (inexpensive) need thick-walled tubes to be strong enough, and they are heavy. Stronger steel allows the production of thin-walled pipes, but then the rigidity decreases. Recent developments include very high strength "air harden" steels, such as Reynolds 853. (Unlike most other types of steel, air harden steels gain, rather than lose, strength as they cool after welding). All steels have the same hardness, regardless of strength - 853 is no harder than 1010 (low strength steel).

Pros:
The best steel alloys are very durable
Better rigidity throughout
Durable
Air-hardening steel alloys enable ultra-high strength

Minuses:
Must be heavy - not a material suitable for large lightweight frames
Are rusting

Aluminum

Aluminum frames can be very stiff and light because the density of aluminum is very low, but the frame tubes must be larger in diameter to compensate for the lower strength. However, today these "fat tube" frames are a common design for quality bikes. Recent improvements include additions to the alloy Scandium, an element that increases strength. Overall, aluminum is a good material for rigid, lightweight frames for riders of all sizes. It is also one of two materials that work well for frames with non-traditional shapes.

Pros:
Three times less dense than steel, allows the use of large (“thick”) pipes
Easily takes aerodynamic shapes
Even cheap frames can be lightweight
Allows you to create a lightweight frame for a large rider
Does not rust

Minuses:
One third to half strength the best steels(may break)
One third the stiffness of any steel, requires large diameter pipes
Modest fatigue strength
Not easily repaired or restored
Large, thin pipes are easily damaged in an accident

Titanium

Titanium has an excellent balance of properties for frames, and gives the best combination of durability and weight. Titanium alloys are half as tough as steel, but also half as dense. The best titanium alloys are comparable in strength to the strongest steels. Rigid titanium frames require larger diameter tubes than comparable steel frames, but not as large a diameter as aluminum. Titanium is very corrosion resistant, and very light frames can be made stiff enough and strong enough for larger riders. Most titanium frames are 3Al/2.5V (3% aluminum/2.5% vanadium, rest titanium), although the stronger 6Al/4V alloy (6% aluminum/4% vanadium, rest titanium) is increasingly being used.

Pros:
Half the density of steel, makes for the lightest, most resilient frames
As strong as most steels
Does not rust - no painting required
Good fatigue properties
Allows the production of lightweight frames for large riders
Minuses:
Half the stiffness of steel (also known as overflex)
Difficult to repair and process
Expensive

Carbon fiber

Individual carbon fibers are extremely strong and rigid, but these properties are useless unless the fibers are arranged in a strict structure and held together with a strong "glue" (usually epoxy resin). Unlike metals, in which the strength and stiffness are almost the same in all directions, carbon fiber composites can be produced with higher strength and stiffness properties in the directions where they are needed (for example, laterally rigid and vertically flexible). It is the best material for frames with non-traditional shapes because it allows you to mold and customize its properties like no other metal (by creating multi-layer structures with differently oriented fibers).

Pros:
Easily molded into exotic shapes
Excellent fatigue strength
Does not rust
Strength and rigidity are controlled at the frame creation stage
Low density and high strength make it possible to create very light and strong frames

Minuses:
Very expensive material
A "bomb" - if the product is poorly designed or manufactured (too rigid or too flexible) - may be "sensitive" (prone to breakage).

Text: Sergey Sudarikov AKA Honzales.

A single speed bike is a bike with one speed. “Simpler is not always worse” - that’s exactly what it’s about. The popular misconception about maximum convenience with the greatest number of bells and whistles is shattered by the stones of conciseness and lightness of such models. The first single-speed bicycle appeared in Japan in the mid-twentieth century. Japanese couriers began using fast and easy bicycles to deliver mail. In an era of increasing complexity of familiar ordinary things, I want to return to the original ease of use and care.

For some people, one speed on a bicycle is a repulsive fact when choosing a bike, but it is worth understanding one obvious thing - the number of speeds on a bicycle does not affect the speed of movement, only the degree of effort expended changes. After the boom in bicycles, equipped with a variety of different parts and accessories from handlebars to pedals, singlespeed has once again regained its leading position in the bicycle market. One star in the front, one in the back – the power is in simplicity!

Pros and cons of singlespeed

The advantages of singlespeed are obvious and understandable even to a child. Explaining simply - less details, less worries. The absence of switches, shifters, cassettes and cables makes the bike easier to maintain and saves money. The fundamental simplicity of the bike will not make the wallet lighter, but the bike will. The low weight achieved by the lack of parts for several speeds has never upset anyone. On the contrary, the lightness that a 1-speed bike can boast of is definitely an advantage. For both novice cyclists and confident bike riders, ease of use is a pleasant factor, because the transmission is the most capricious element. Even a closed gear shift system contained in a planetary hub requires careful attention and timely maintenance, let alone open system. For a resident of a metropolis, a city bike without speeds is like a lifesaver. There is nothing to break here, so you will have time for more important things than maintaining your two-wheeled friend that broke at the wrong time. And can everyone cope with a complex transmission and its repair? No speeds - no problems!

The disadvantages of the singspeed are few and insignificant. Overcoming obstacles will require effort; the road up the hill can be a real challenge. A single-speed bike is inferior in versatility to a multi-speed bike adapted for hilly surfaces; it is ineffective for riding on rough terrain.

Singlespeed is a bike for the city; for comfortable riding it needs a road. He will cope with obstacles, but he will have to spend energy.

How to choose a single speed bike?

The main task when choosing a singlespeed is to decide on the color. The minimum configuration eliminates a number of difficulties that you should pay attention to when purchasing. If among the variety of city and recreational bicycles you decide to choose a single speed, then it’s a small matter. The bicycle market is replete with the most different models for every taste and color. A technical factor to pay attention to is the ratio of the number of front sprocket teeth to the number of rear sprocket teeth. For city driving with slightly hilly terrain and smooth roads, a ratio of 2.5x1 is recommended. If the roads are not met with perfect asphalt, but with obstacles and hills, it is better to choose a smaller ratio, for example 2.3x1. Adult non-speed bikes designed for off-road and rough terrain offer a 2x1 ratio. The choice of the ideal ratio is purely individual, and even the examples described above do not always coincide with the client’s needs. To most accurately hit the target, it is recommended to take a test ride and listen to how you feel on the bike. Another myth about the limitations of singlespeed has been dispelled; you can even adjust one speed to suit you.

Best singlespeed from Electra

Single speed Electra bicycles are in demand in every country. In sunny California and capricious Moscow, rainy London and windy St. Petersburg. The popularity is due to choice - almost every line of models has women's and men's singlespeeds. The classic Cruiser, which is often compared to a sofa on wheels, the sophisticated road Loft and the versatile walking Townie. Let's add an abundance of colors and get a rich assortment of the most comfortable and colorful bicycles. In the race to become the best single speed bike, the Electra has an incomparable advantage in its patented Flat Foot system. A wide viewing angle, combined with a straight back and relaxed muscles, becomes a decisive factor in choosing the best single speed bike.

When choosing a touring bike frame, you need to understand that a frame that is perfect for a particular tour will not necessarily suit another cyclist for his tour. The capabilities of different frames vary greatly. What to look for when choosing a bicycle frame?

Frame material.

Modern bicycle frames are made from highly elastic chrome-molybdenum steel, aluminum, titanium or carbon composite material. In the not-too-distant past, virtually all touring bikes were assembled using highly resilient chrome-molybdenum steel. Even today, small and medium-sized manufacturers create their expensive ones from various alloys of highly elastic chrome-molybdenum steel. Now almost all manufacturers produce very light, durable and inexpensive aluminum bicycle frames. In touring bikes, old materials such as steel have been replaced by aluminum or titanium.

Steel frames.

All common steel alloys have approximately the same stiffness and weight. When producing bicycle tubes, chromium and molybdenum are added to enhance their strength. This addition allows you to create tubes that are thinner in the middle and thicker at the ends, which makes the frame lighter. Steel frames usually have thinner tubes compared to aluminum frames.

The use of thinner pipes makes the frame more elastic than aluminum. This flexibility increases ride comfort and eliminates the need for a carbon fork, seatpost or carbon frame. And the more flexible the frame, the longer it will last.

Frames made of steel alloys are strong, rigid, comfortable, lightweight, inexpensive and repairable. A high-quality steel alloy frame is a good choice for a touring bike.

Bicycles with aluminum frame.

At the moment, aluminum is the most common material for high-quality mass-produced bicycles. The aluminum frame is lightweight, responsive, corrosion-resistant and inexpensive. Compared to a steel frame, it has better rigidity and weight.

Aluminum is less dense than steel. The result is a rigid but light frame. With the same wall thickness, an aluminum frame has a larger diameter. Compared to steel, increasing the size of the pipe leads to a lighter frame, but at the same time to a stiffer frame. In fact, only a few cyclists will be able to feel this rigidity. To alleviate some of the stiffness, you can install carbon forks and seatposts.

Titanium frames.

Based on its strength and lightness, titanium is excellent construction material for frames But due to the cost of titanium itself and the cost of creating the frame, it is very expensive. The strength of a titanium frame is comparable to that of steel, but titanium tube has a larger diameter than steel tube of the same rigidity. Compared to steel alloys, titanium has two main advantages: lightness and corrosion resistance. The exorbitant price limits its availability in touring bikes.

Bicycle frame geometry.

The frame geometry of a classic touring bike is designed for long road riding. But a touring frame differs from other frames (such as road, sport, and hybrid) in several ways that allow you to ride comfortably and steadily with heavy luggage. The controls should be less sensitive, the center of gravity lower, and the body position more upright. The factors that determine these benefits are shown in the figure below.

• The dimensions given here are based on a 54cm frame size (seat tube) and may vary significantly depending on frame geometry.
• The more rearward "A" head tube, at about 71°, brings the bike closer to the rider for a more upright position (when using the correct size stem).
• Longer "D" chainstays provide more clearance between the heels. This also moves the bike carrier further away from the bottom bracket so that the weight is better distributed between both wheels. Chainstay length greater than 450mm is a rule of thumb.
• The height of the “E” carriage above the ground is approximately 270 mm, which helps keep the center of gravity low. This is an additional aid to the bike's stability when heavily loaded.
• Long "G" wheelbase of approximately 1055 mm for better handling and stability when carrying heavy loads.

• Wing mounts
• Minimum 2 (3 flasks are better)
• Mounts for
• Front and rear wheel clearance, calculated at least 38 mm, taking into account the fenders
• Wheels 700c or 26"
• Cantilever or V-brake mounts
• Recently, high-end touring bikes have used disc brakes. Their stopping power is definitely higher than other brakes (especially in wet and muddy conditions); they are usually overkill for most travel. But for heavily loaded hikes and tandems, disc brakes need more braking power.

Bicycle frame - the basis of any bicycle. And her choice is worth paying attention to Special attention: You will replace all other blocks and accessories as they wear out (or simply gradually buy better ones). And it will still be the same bike. And if you replace the frame, then it’s a new bike.

The frame is characterized by three main parameters:

• Material
• Type(design)
• Size (size)

Material

For your first bike, you should probably choose a frame steel or aluminum. We will talk about these - the most affordable materials - a little lower, but first, a few words about the more expensive options (and, accordingly, about why perhaps you should not overpay for them yet).

Carbon

If you are a fan of quality and are convinced that “the higher the price, the higher the quality”, and based on this, decide to choose carbon frame bike(“so that it will last forever!”), then at first glance, this will really be an excellent investment. Expensive carbon fiber is extremely light (the weight of the frame is especially important for girls). But keep in mind that at the same time it is a rather brittle material (especially in the cold), and therefore the service life of a carbon frame is less than that of an aluminum frame. Cracks on such a frame can even appear from excessive tightening of the eccentric, and an unsuccessful fall can simply destroy it.

Titanium

Another rather expensive material for frames is titanium. Everyone knows that it is a lightweight, corrosion-resistant, durable metal. Such frames are most often used in sports bicycles. Due to the fact that titanium is a somewhat “sticky” metal, frames made from it “swallow” minor road defects well.

Magnesium alloys

Recently, frames have become more often made from magnesium alloy V. These frames are lightweight (twice lighter than similar aluminum ones and six times lighter than steel ones) and absorb vibration well. In addition, they have good “fatigue” characteristics. But they are quite demanding in maintenance: they easily oxidize and break down. Therefore, even small scratches and chips of paint are dangerous. So don’t rush into buying “titaniums” with “carbons”. They will, of course, add coolness to you in the eyes of others and your own, but along with it they will also add possible problems, the grief of which can ruin your pleasure from owning a bicycle. It makes sense to install a frame of this level only when you have driven a couple of thousand kilometers, gained experience and understand what exactly you are paying money for. Now let's turn to more “budget” materials and see what their pros and cons are. Cheaper does not always mean worse!

Aluminum frames

Aluminum frames(which are 10 times cheaper than carbon and 6 times cheaper than magnesium, statistics for basic models), unlike magnesium, they have high corrosion resistance, with a fairly low weight. Aluminum has only two drawbacks: this material, compared to others, absorbs vibration somewhat worse, so on uneven areas you will shake more (of course, if there are no shock absorbers), and aluminum frames gradually accumulate fatigue and collapse suddenly. This can be especially unpleasant on a long hike: damaged aluminum frame(unlike steel) not every village will help you weld. However, it is important to note that manufacturers, knowing about this feature of aluminum, provide a greater margin of safety when designing: they use pipes of a larger cross-section, pipes with variable wall thickness, etc.

Steel frames

And finally, there are steel frames. This is the heaviest option, which, we repeat, does not mean “the worst” - such frames are used to solve their problems. Note: steel can be worse and good - the cheapest bicycles are made of low quality steel, which means more weight and poor corrosion resistance. If the material is good chrome-molybdenum steel (which, of course, costs more), then you will get a rigid frame with good “fatigue” characteristics. It won't fall apart unexpectedly. Over the years of use, microcracks will first appear, which will make themselves felt by creaking and some decrease in rigidity. You will hear a creak and feel a decrease in rigidity. Steel frames will last much longer than aluminum frames. For long hikes on difficult trails, it makes sense to take a more expensive steel frame rather than an aluminum one. Metal is metal, but sometimes it bursts. You can weld steel almost anywhere.

Frame design

Classic bicycle frame has a diamond shape. Almost all bicycles have this design, except for city ones ( city ​​bikes, road bikes). This is the most severe option, the so-called female (“open”) frames. They are considered to be less durable.

Of the frames found today, we can also mention folding− they are all made on the basis of open ones. All folding bicycles are recreational bicycles and cannot be used for sports or tourism.

Of course, there are also tandems and various kinds of experimental models (such, for example, where the cyclist lies), but in this article we will not touch on them.

Classic diamond-shaped frames come in four types of bicycles:

• Without shock absorbers
• With front shock absorber− hardtail (from English “hard tail”)
• With front shock absorber and rear wheel suspension− soft tail (“soft tail”)
• With front and rear shock absorber(double suspension)

We will talk about shock absorbers in more detail in another article, because the so-called “auchanbike” is, of course, a hardtail type, but, on the other hand, it is better without shock absorbers at all than with such. The main thing you need to know is that if you drive on difficult trails, then, of course, you need a front shock absorber. And if you need a bike for hiking, then a dual-suspension bike is not the best option for you: they don’t make good racks for frames of this type, you can only use those that are attached to the seatpost, but they are not very heavy-duty. Of course, some people walk hundreds of cycling kilometers with a backpack on their shoulders, but the author of the article is categorically against such tourism.

Frame size

This section does not apply to those who choose a stunt bike. But everyone else needs to read it carefully. From frame geometry depends to a large extent on your landing: on a racing (road) it will be more recumbent than on a mountain bike. And on the mountain it is more recumbent than on the road. But in any case, you should adhere to an important principle: the frame must fit. On a bicycle with a frame that is too small, your knees (and they always have it the worst) and elbows will be uncomfortable, although maneuverability and controllability will increase. But if the frame is too large, then it will be more difficult for you to get on such a bike, and the risk of injury will increase (especially on classic diamond-shaped frames closed type, especially in men).

In the cycling world there is a very high degree of standardization of sizes and compatibility of different components, but with the definition frame sizes there is no consensus. For example, the frame size of road bikes is traditionally indicated in centimeters, while for others - in inches. Some manufacturers make frames with odd sizes (17, 19, 21, etc. inches), while others, on the contrary, with even ones. But the most interesting thing is that each company has its own principles of where to start and where to end the measurement.

How to choose a bike according to your height We recommend you when choosing sizes not only focus on the sign below, but also do the following. Saddle the bike, but don’t sit in the saddle yet, stand with both feet on the ground, with a fist between the top crossbar of the frame and your groin. Now sit on the bike (with the saddle extended so that your fully extended leg is on the pedal in its lowest position). And ride it - if you don’t feel any acute discomfort, then everything is fine. Of course, when you get on a bike for the first time and ride around the store for two minutes, it is very difficult to understand whether it will be comfortable for you to clock up kilometer after kilometer in this position. Therefore, the main advice: before you go shopping, find the opportunity to try several different bicycles (rent or from friends). Take a short walk on each one. Then you will have an idea of ​​what sensations to pay attention to, in what position your body will be more comfortable: everything is individual, some people like a more horizontal, “lying” position, while for others, their shoulders or neck get tired in this position. This is why he will prefer a frame that allows him to sit more upright.

Mountain bike frame sizes

You can make more “fine” adjustments to the position of your body on the bike later by adjusting or replacing the handlebar stem, extending or retracting the seat.

Perhaps the most dramatic upgrade to a bicycle is replacing the frame. It is the frame that determines the character of the bike and has the greatest influence on its driving performance, appearance and, as a result, the enjoyment of riding. On Internet forums, many copies have been broken about the choice of this or that frame material, and this topic can easily be classified as a holivar, but still I will allow myself to speculate and express my opinion.

Aluminum frames

For many years, aluminum frames have been very popular among cyclists around the world. Although the frames are called “aluminum”, they are made not from pure aluminum, but from an alloy, due to the fact that aluminum itself is quite soft. Thus, the alloy is approximately 95% aluminum, but also includes: magnesium, zinc, manganese, titanium, chromium, iron, etc. This results in such popular alloys as 7005 and 6061, most often used in the manufacture of bicycle frames. To increase strength, pipes of large diameter and thicker walls are used. Many aluminum frames, for the purpose of lightening, have the so-called. butting, which is a variable thickness of pipe walls in different places, depending on the load. As a result, the frame is quite light, rigid and durable.

The weight of a mid-level aluminum frame in size 19” is about 2-2.5 kg, which allows you to build a fairly light bike on a very modest budget. As for rigidity, this is both good and bad. For racing where jerking, dynamic riding while standing on the pedals and precise handling are important, stiffness will be a plus. But when it comes to long distance riding, riding on an aluminum frame can cause some discomfort in the lower back, back and arms, especially if you have any spinal problems. The reason for this is the rigidity mentioned above, as well as the properties of the material - low internal friction, as a result of which vibration from the wheels is very well transmitted to the cyclist through the frame.

One of the main disadvantages of aluminum frames is their tendency to accumulate fatigue and, as a result, unexpected breakdowns at the most inopportune moment. That is why you should be especially wary of used aluminum alloy frames that are more than 10 years old, have a decent mileage, or have been subjected to heavy loads (for example, in extreme disciplines). This is also true for rigid aluminum forks. Not only is riding on such a fork extremely uncomfortable, but it can also break suddenly.

One way or another, aluminum frames continue to be very popular and many serial bicycle models in the lower and middle price segments are assembled on their basis. Perhaps price is the main factor here. After all, you can purchase a fairly high-quality frame made of aluminum alloy even for 5,000-8,000 rubles.

In professional cycling, aluminum frames have not been used for a long time and they have been completely replaced by carbon, which due to its properties is much better suited for disciplines where time is measured by seconds and weights are measured by grams.

Carbon frames

In professional sports, carbon has a strong and permanent foothold; it is unlikely that anything will be able to displace it in the coming years. Technologies continue to be refined, new frame models are released that have greater rigidity, strength, better aerodynamics and lower weight. At the same time, carbon frames and components have ceased to be the exclusive privilege of professionals and are increasingly penetrating the ranks of amateur cyclists. At the same time, a lot of articles and topics appeared on forums with very mixed opinions about carbon frames. Articles where the author talks about how cool, reliable and durable carbon is, but then contradicts himself and says that it is still a little fragile can cause confusion. So, is it reliable or fragile? Let's figure it out.

In fact, this is so, carbon is both strong and fragile, no matter how strange it may sound. In tension, carbon is much stronger than aluminum alloy, but when it comes to breaking or strong pinpoint impacts, everything is not so good. You can subject a carbon frame to high loads when riding over rough terrain, jumping, even transporting heavy camping equipment on a hike and not worry that the carbon will not hold up and suddenly collapse. But sometimes it may happen that the bicycle accidentally falls on a sharp stone, a corner of a wall, or gets hit while being transported on a train, train or plane. There are quite a lot of such cases. What is the likelihood that this will happen specifically in your use case is another question. True, you shouldn’t think that carbon is really so fragile and can collapse from any small blow. In most cases, everything should be done with a surface chip of varnish, a layer of which also provides additional protection for the carbon. With normal use, a carbon frame can last a very long time, as carbon exhibits virtually no fatigue.

Recently, budget (relatively) Chinese carbon frames have become very popular. This is primarily due to the price - about 13,000-15,000 rubles, which is more than two times lower than the cost of models from well-known brands. Is it worth buying such a frame? If you really want to try carbon, but there is no way to buy a frame from a well-known manufacturer, then this is the only option. But you need to keep in mind that carbon is different from carbon. A budget carbon frame of unknown origin may not be as light and reliable, may not have well-thought-out geometry, and, in general, may be significantly inferior to branded models. But, one way or another, it will allow you to get an idea of ​​what a carbon frame is and how it behaves.

Do I need carbon?

To make it easier for you to decide, I suggest answering a number of questions for yourself:

• Are you ready to spend 30,000+ rubles on just one frame?
• Are you willing to spend about 60,000 more on the remaining components that will match the frame level?
• Will you participate in races and compete for prizes?
• Surely you won’t feel sorry for racing on a bike like this? 🙂
• You don't plan to go hiking and won't transport the bike on trains or trains side by side with other bicycles?
• Do you have another simpler bike for every day?
• Is the “wow” effect on others important to you?

If the answers to these questions are confidently positive, we can assume that yes, most likely you really need a bike with a carbon frame. If, first of all, reliability and durability are important to you, you are not going to win prizes at competitions, and your wallet does not stretch your pocket, then you should not chase trends. In this case, pay attention to more affordable and time-tested materials, such as steel.

Steel frames

Want to touch a real classic? Buy a quality steel frame. For many decades, most bicycles were assembled on steel frames, ranging from children's Schoolchildren to professional-level Colnagos. In the early 90s, in professional cycling, steel frames were very quickly replaced by aluminum and then carbon ones. As for more budget bikes, steel is still in use here, and in very different ways.

The simplest and most budget-friendly ones are frames made of low-carbon steel, while the slightly more expensive ones are made of alloy steel (high tensile, hiten steel). The former are used on bicycles in the lowest price category and are sometimes called bed frames or water pipes. Indeed, their characteristics can hardly be called outstanding, especially the first ones. Such frames are heavy (4-5 kg) and are quite susceptible to corrosion. Nevertheless, they are inexpensive, strong and repairable, and dampen vibrations well.

The best and most interesting steel frames are made from chrome molybdenum steel (CrMo). The once legendary HVZ, Colnago, Bianchi, Pinarello and many other well-known manufacturers of road and mountain frames had in their arsenal many models of chrome-molybdenum frames of different levels, from average amateur ones to top professional ones, on which they won victories many times at iconic world cycling races, such as : Tour de France, Giro d'Italia, Paris-Roubaix and many others. Of course, today, in professional cycling, steel (even such high-quality steel) has not been used for many years, but many manufacturers continue to produce chrome-molybdenum frames, both road and mountain, which are very popular among classic connoisseurs and cyclists who value maximum performance. reliability, maintainability and comfort when traveling on roads with a variety of surfaces.

Chrome-molybdenum frames are very resistant to fatigue. Even if it happens that the chrome-molybdenum frame breaks, then, as a rule, this does not happen suddenly, but gradually. There were cases when a crack appeared in chrome-molybdenum frames during difficult hikes, but they held up, did not break, and allowed us to complete the route. Almost 10 years ago I came across a Jamis Exile XC chromoly frame. You can see photos of this bike on the pages of this site. So the frame came to me already badly beaten by life. It lay in an unheated garage for a long time, as a result of which it began to rust. I had to thoroughly clean the thread of the card assembly, treat it with a converter, and then spray the entire frame with Movil. In addition, there is a dent on the top tube of the frame, and there is also a slight bend in the rear stays, so the rear wheel is a little off to the side. However, this is my main all-around bike that I use all year round for 9 years.

The bicycle on a chrome-molybdenum frame is very comfortable. Thanks to the properties of the material - high internal friction and good ductility, a bike on a chromoly frame literally plays under the cyclist, which is very good when riding on small uneven surfaces, for example, a washboard or a rocky grader. Of course, in the case of using a bicycle for racing, softness can be considered a disadvantage rather than an advantage. But if your priority is comfort when traveling on different roads and in their complete absence, then the chromol is a very good option.

There is an opinion that steel frames are very heavy. But this does not apply at all to high-quality chrome-molybdenum frames. Unless, of course, you compare them with carbon. But it is quite possible to compare with aluminum ones and the advantage will not always be with the latter. Of course, lightweight chrome-molybdenum frames are quite expensive and can cost 20,000-30,000 rubles. and more. But there are cheaper options, and besides, in the case of chrome-molybdenum frames, you should not be too afraid of used ones, as with aluminum ones. I got my Jamis almost for free, you can say that I saved it :)

Titanium frames

So we got to my favorite titanium. It is a bicycle on a titanium frame that represents for me maximum versatility, reliability and is my choice. Let me remind you that I have owned a bicycle based on the Titerra Ti-M19 frame for more than 12 years; some time ago I wrote about it in an article and talked about it in a video.

Titanium frames offer the weight of the best aluminum frames, the strength and comfort of chrome-moly frames, but are virtually corrosion-resistant and have fantastic durability. I note that the point about durability is valid if all technologies were followed during manufacturing. Otherwise, the frame may quickly break and repairing it will not be so easy, since the requirements for titanium processing conditions are very high, which directly affects the maintainability of the product, especially in the absence of the necessary conditions. But if the technology has been followed, then the titanium frame will serve you for decades, and it will also be enough for grandchildren and great-grandchildren.

In the manufacture of titanium frames, an alloy is used that contains other elements, not just titanium. pure form. Such alloys are called Titanium alloys. For example, the most popular alloys used in the production of bicycle frames are 3AL-2.5V (3% Aluminum and 2.5% Vanadium) and 6AL-4V (6% Aluminum and 4% Vanadium). Often these alloys are combined and used in different parts of the same product. Other alloys are also used, for example, the well-known company Rapid uses aerospace alloy OT-4 and PT-7M in its frames.

As for the purpose of titanium frames, their range of application is very wide: year-round and daily use in the city, complex multi-day hikes, brevets, rides on any type of road, involving long walks, where you literally have to drag the bike on yourself. Except that I won’t include racing here, where high frame rigidity is important, allowing for maximum jerk and sharp control. Since titanium is soft, it has some losses when pedaling, especially when powered. Also, if a bicycle with a titanium frame is used by people weighing 100 kg or more, excessive softness may be noticeable, up to the feeling that the frame is simply dangling under you. Of course, this largely depends on the specific frame model.

Visually, a bicycle on a titanium frame looks completely discreet. Titanium is rarely painted and if you need to achieve a spectacular appearance, then it is polished until it becomes shiny. Most frames are sold unpolished and for ordinary people they look like just gray pieces of iron. This can certainly be considered a plus. Despite their considerable cost, titanium bicycles attract much less attention than the decorated aluminum or fashionable carbon ones, which sometimes shout: “Hey, take me, I’m so cool!” I even know a case when, during a ride, a group stopped at a village store, leaned their bicycles and left. The titanium bicycle was the last one propped up. When people left the store, they found that the titanium (which was the very first) was lying to the side, but there was no trace of the new aluminum bike. Of course, you shouldn’t expect that this will always work and just leave your bike anywhere, but this is undoubtedly a plus.

The biggest disadvantage of titanium frames is their high price, which can be equivalent to or even higher than branded carbon products. So, for example, a used titanium frame, which is already 15 years old, can easily be sold for 20,000 rubles, but this cannot be said to be a very inflated price tag. Prices for new domestic titanium frames start from 45,000 rubles. Therefore, if you decide to assemble a bicycle on a titanium frame, then before that you need to weigh all the pros and cons and understand why all this is needed and whether the game is worth the candle. In many cases, a chrome-moly frame can be an excellent alternative to titanium for significantly less money.

When it comes to fashion and trends, titanium stands apart from frames made from other materials. In the circles of advanced cyclists it looks something like this: aluminum - mass-produced bicycles, unnoticeable and ordinary; carbon is for messengers and advanced cyclists; chrome-molybdenum - for connoisseurs of classics and old-school bicycles. The situation with titanium is special. Expressions like “classic” or “in trend” don’t work for him, he is in a different parallel, out of time, and if you have comprehended the zen of titanium bikes, you are unlikely to be able to reconsider your views.

Conclusion

Of course, in addition to aluminum, carbon, steel and titanium, there are bicycle frames made from other, much more exotic alloys and materials, for example, magnesium or scandium frames. But today it is very difficult to find them on sale, even on order, and as far as I know, interest in them has already diminished greatly, compared to what it was 10-15 years ago.

When it comes to choosing a frame material for your bicycle, you need to think and decide exactly how it will be used. Each material is good in its own way, but also has its weaknesses. If we are talking about assembling a budget bike, then most likely the choice will be limited to aluminum and steel frames. If you are inclined towards sports and racing, at first you should race on aluminum, but as you grow noticeably, switch to carbon, which will allow you to improve your results. But don’t think that if you ride carbon, you’ll immediately finish in the top 5. Still, first of all, the cyclist rides, and the bicycle helps him with this. If you gravitate towards cycling tourism, love long trips on any roads (and maybe even without them), and at the same time have a desire to touch something eternal, reliable and have the opportunity to seriously spend money, then a bicycle with a titanium frame will suit you perfectly. You’re not ready to spend tens of thousands on one frame, but you want reliability and durability, but you don’t like the visual appeal of “blown” aluminum frames? In this case, pay attention to chrome-molybdenum models, which will undoubtedly be able to satisfy your needs and refined taste.

Undoubtedly, the choice of frame is a very important issue, because good equipment is a pleasure to ride. But I don’t advise you to indulge in cycling fetishism, chase after grams and waste your time arguing on cycling forums about what’s cooler, what works and what doesn’t. The main thing is that you like the bike, and that you have the desire, time and energy to ride more often, getting benefit and pleasure.

If you have something to add or want to ask a question about a particular frame, then you are welcome to comment.