Do-it-yourself combined woodworking machine. How to make a woodworking machine for your home and home workshop with your own hands

Wood is easy to process. Using simple tools, you can create things of amazing beauty and functionality.

Separately, it is worth noting products that have the shape of rotation figures: tool handles, staircase balusters, kitchen utensils. To make them, an ax or chisel is not enough; you need a lathe.

Buying such a device is not a problem, but a good machine is expensive. It’s not difficult to acquire such a useful tool and save money, because you can make a wood lathe with your own hands.

Why is it needed and how does it work?

A lathe is designed for the manufacture of wooden products that have a cylindrical or similar shape. This is an indispensable thing when renovating a country house with a wooden staircase, a carved porch, but not only.

If you have some experience, a turning tool will allow you not only to save on purchased decorative elements, but also to earn money, because handmade wooden products are highly valued.

Whether such a machine is needed in a home workshop is up to the master to decide.

Of course, if you need several handles for chisels, it is easier to buy them, but if you want to make an all-wood staircase, then a set of balusters will cost a very large sum. It is much cheaper to make them yourself. By the way, you don’t even have to spend money on buying equipment - a simple machine can be made in your own workshop using scrap materials.

The operating principle of a wood lathe is not particularly complicated. The cylindrical workpiece is fixed along the axis of rotation. Torque is transmitted to it. By bringing various cutters or grinding tools to the workpiece, it is given the desired shape.

Main parts of lathe:

• a frame on which all components are fixed;
• electric drive;
• headstock;
• tailstock;
• handyman

For ease of operation, schemes for changing the rotation speed are used. In professional equipment, this is a real gearbox, a system of gears that allows you to regulate the speed within a very wide range. This is difficult; it is enough to equip a homemade wood lathe with a belt drive with several pulleys of different diameters.

Manufacturing of the bed

The bed is a frame that combines all parts of the machine into a single whole. The strength of the structure as a whole depends on its reliability, therefore the best material for the frame is a steel angle. You can also use a rectangular profile pipe.

First of all, the dimensions of the future unit are outlined. This indicator largely depends on what specific products the machine is needed for. The average bed size of a home lathe is 80 cm. Using a grinder with a metal circle, cut two identical workpieces.

Laying wooden blocks, the angles with the shelves up and inward, are laid on a flat surface, their upper edges should create an ideal plane. The same distance is maintained between them, approximately 5 cm. To orient them correctly, use a strip of appropriate thickness.

The longitudinal parts of the base are fixed with clamps. Cross members are made from the same square. There are three of them. Two are attached to the edges of the structure, the third, which is a support for the headstock, is approximately twenty centimeters from the left edge. The exact dimensions depend on the type of motor used and the parameters of the pulley that could be found.

All that remains is to weld the frame into a single whole. The seam must be reliable and of high quality; it can be welded manually or using an automatic machine.

It is important to immediately decide how the machine will be used. Desktop installation or production of a stand-alone unit is possible. In the second option, it is necessary to provide legs. They can be made from the same square, or they can be cut from timber of suitable thickness. The use of wooden legs will allow you to save on material, in addition, the machine can be made collapsible.

Electric motor for machine

The basis of the lathe drive is the engine. When choosing this unit, it is important to pay attention to its main characteristic – power. For a home machine, models with a power from 1200 to 2000 W are suitable. The type of connection is important; there are single-phase and three-phase motors.

In a low-power table lathe, you can use a motor from a washing machine. It is unlikely to cope with the processing of large workpieces, but it will help produce small decorative elements and kitchen utensils.

Direct drive or belt drive

There are several ways to transfer rotation to the workpiece. The simplest is direct drive. In this case, the workpiece is attached directly to the motor shaft. A distinctive feature of this design is its simplicity. With all this, direct drive has a number of significant disadvantages.

First of all, a direct drive machine does not allow you to adjust the rotation speed, which is critical when working with hard material. It is also worth considering the load on the electric motor, especially when working with large workpieces. No matter how well it is centered, it cannot do without vibration. Motor bearings are not designed to withstand longitudinal loads and will often fail.

To protect the engine from damage and provide the ability to adjust the speed of rotation of the workpiece, it is worth considering a belt drive. In this case, the engine is located away from the axis of rotation of the workpiece, and torque is transmitted through pulleys. Using pulley blocks of different diameters, it is easy to change the speed within a fairly wide range.

It is advisable to equip a machine for your home with pulleys with three or more grooves, which will allow you to process wood of any species with equal success, and, if necessary, work with soft alloys.

Headstock and tailstock

The workpiece being processed is clamped between two devices called the headstock and tailstock. Rotation from the engine is transmitted to the front one, which is why it is a more complex unit.

Structurally, the headstock of a homemade lathe is a metal U-shaped structure, between the side faces of which a shaft and one or more pulleys are mounted on bearings. The body of this unit can be made of thick steel; bolts of sufficient length are suitable for assembling it into a single whole.

An important part of the headstock, as well as the machine as a whole, is the shaft, a spindle with three or four pins designed to fix the workpiece. This shaft is passed through the bearing of one of the cheeks of the U-shaped housing, then pulleys are mounted on it. To fasten them, a key or a means for fixing cylindrical parts is used, the second cheek is put on last, and the structure is securely tightened with bolts.

The tailstock's job is to support the long workpiece while allowing it to rotate freely. You can buy a ready-made part from a factory machine, or you can use a powerful electric drill chuck mounted on a square of suitable length. A shaft with a pointed end is clamped into the cartridge itself.

The headstock and tailstock are installed on the bed. It is important to understand that the axes of rotation of both shafts must completely coincide. Otherwise, breakage of the workpiece, failure of the machine, and possibly injury to the turner are likely.

Tool support: tool rest

A tool rest is a table on which the tool rests during operation. In principle, it can have any configuration, the master can choose, the main criterion is convenience. One of the best options for a tool rest is a trapezoidal turntable made of thick steel, mounted on a platform that allows you to move it in all directions. It will allow you to process any workpieces and produce products of various sizes and shapes.

The simplest tool for this is a square welded to the base. The height of its upper edge must correspond to the level of the axis of the headstocks.

Wood cutters

They are used as a cutting tool for a lathe. You can buy such a tool at almost any hardware store. Individual cutters and entire sets are available for sale.

If there is no store nearby, but you have the opportunity and desire, you can make the necessary tool yourself. To do this, you will need a metal-cutting machine, as well as a sheet of tool steel; it can be replaced with an old tool. A high-quality turning tool can be obtained, for example, from an old Soviet file.

Mini machine for small jobs

Often there is a need to turn several small wooden parts, in this case it is not at all necessary to make a full-fledged machine; you can get by with a mini-wood lathe. Its production does not require much labor and will not take much time.

The design of such a machine is extremely simple. A motor from an old tape recorder, powered from an external power supply, is ideal as an electrical component. The bed of the mini-machine will be a piece of board of the required length.

The engine must be secured. Of course, a belt drive is not suitable for a small machine; the workpiece will have to be mounted on the motor shaft. The best device for this is a faceplate. The drive housing is a U-shaped plate, in the center of which a hole is drilled for the shaft. The engine in the housing is mounted on the frame using self-tapping screws.

The main part of the machine is ready, all that remains is to make the tailstock. Its body is made of a block of suitable size. A hole for the shaft is drilled in it exactly at the height of the engine; a dowel-nail of suitable length is used as it. The headstock is attached with glue and several screws.

Using a power source with the ability to adjust the output voltage, you can create a machine with variable rotation speed. It is convenient to regulate the speed using the foot control pedal. The design of this device can be very diverse, it all depends on the available parts.

Machine made from an electric drill

Perhaps every home craftsman has such a useful thing as an electric drill. This is a truly universal tool; it can be used for drilling, mixing mortar, and cleaning surfaces. It's no wonder that many people have the idea of ​​using a drill motor to make a small wood lathe.

It is not difficult. By and large, it is enough to fix the drill on the bed, and install the tailstock opposite it; it should be movable, which will allow you to adjust the working distance.

There are many options for manufacturing such a lathe, they differ in complexity and the materials used. In the simplest case, the machine is a board or piece of thick plywood, on one end of which there is a stop for a drill with a lock, on the other - a rear beam: a block with a shaft inside. As a shaft, you can use a sharpened screw or dowel of a suitable diameter.

If you have the skills to work with metal, you can create a professional-level machine. Using it, it is easy to produce products of the highest class. If you need a machine from time to time, the best option is a machine made from a drill. If necessary, you can grind the required part, and if you need a drill, it can be used for its intended purpose.

To perform a certain type of woodworking, available tools alone may not be enough. Therefore, there is often a need to have a lathe for these purposes. Many people rack their brains about where to buy such equipment, but the box just opens. Why buy second-hand when you can make it yourself?

Home lathe, which you make yourself, will allow you to save significantly on the purchase of such equipment on the specialized equipment market. You can, of course, purchase old models that are in storage, but the problem is that:

1. Factories with such models must first be found.
2. It is not a fact that the equipment during conservation did not deteriorate, because it stood idle for 10, 15, and maybe even 25 years.

So it turns out that making equipment with your own hands will allow you to put in some effort, but you will definitely get exactly what you need for home workshop. In terms of technical indicators, equipment made personally will not be inferior to a unit created by a factory. How to do equipment, let's look at it now.

Before starting work on creating equipment, you should study its structure. Without any particles or elements, the equipment will not function properly or be dangerous to use. There are certain design elements that any lathe, whether manufactured 25 years ago or today using high-precision equipment, includes.

The main structural elements of such a unit are

If any of this list is missing, the user simply will not be able to operate, ensure safety and achieve maximum efficiency of the turning equipment.

Also, depending on the complexity of the operations performed with the equipment, in the future, when making it yourself, care should be taken to ensure that it is possible to shift the workpiece relative to the center of the rotation axis. This will give the operator the ability to perform even complex work related to wood processing.

Collecting from improvised means machine, special attention should be paid to the electric drive of the future machine, made by hand. As a rule, a three-phase electric motor is used to ensure operation. Based on this, a 380 V line must be installed in the workshop where it is planned to install turning equipment.

Engine Specifications

there are also, and they must be observed. The main thing is that the unit speed is no more than 1,500 rpm. The device must be connected to the power source using a “Star” or “Triangle” circuit.

Next, you need to understand the size of the machine itself.

Most often, production equipment produced by the manufacturer had the following indicators:

Photo: DIY wood cutting machine.

• Length - 80 cm;
• Width - 40 cm;
• Height - 35 cm.

These dimensions will allow you to work with wood pieces with a diameter of 25 cm and a length of up to 20 cm. In this case, you will not need to use a tailstock for improved fixation. It will be installed on a special faceplate, and thanks to the use of a tailstock, the operator has the opportunity to double the length of the workpiece.

How to make a wood lathe yourself

Now let's figure out what is useful for creating turning equipment with your own hands.

Tip: You can use an old kitchen knife sharpening tool as a drive. The main thing is that the model is designed to use 2 sharpening stones.

Such a device is quite suitable as a headstock for equipment. And for the rear, you can always use some elements of a powerful electric drill, which you don’t need.

To ensure a strong base, it is best to use a thick-walled metal profile as a frame. Before starting work, you should draw up the most accurate drawing of the equipment. It’s better to spend a little more time working with paper and diagrams than to spend money searching for new components or consumables because of a mistake.

Drawing of a homemade wood cutting machine.

When drawings with pictures ready, you can start working. But you can’t do without the following equipment:

1. Hand-held electric drill and drills of various diameters.
2. Files with a working coating of different grain sizes.
3. Grinder and removable discs for grinding and cutting.
4. A small welding machine - electric, designed to work with two and three diodes.

For the wasters, you will need:

• Channel;
• Metal corner with thick walls;
• 2 pipes with different diameters so that one can pass through the other;
• Steel strips - 2 and 4 cm;
• Nuts, screws, bolts and other fastening elements;
• Belt for throwing over the drive.

Advice: before how to assemble machine, to get a full picture of what is happening, watch the video below.

It’s easier to perceive information visually, so viewing it will help you protect yourself from a lot of problems that may be associated with an incomplete understanding of the rules of installation, sequence, etc.

The knife sharpening drive is perfect as an electric drive for your machine. The fact is that there are 4 durable washers, which are made of hard metal alloys. 2 of them will give you the opportunity to change the components of the electric whetstone using discs of different diameters. Thanks to this, the user will be able to change the speed of rotation of the wood piece.

Pulleys are used to make the shaft move. They have different diameters to achieve the following rotation speeds:

• 800 rpm;
• 2,000 rpm;
• 3,000 rpm

This will allow you to quickly and effortlessly change the speed of rotation of the workpiece in the clamps of the machine by throwing the belt onto one of them.

Let's get to work - making the bed, tailstock and tool rest

The tailstock will be made from a chuck and head piece taken from the body of an old electric drill. To ensure that the equipment lasts a long time and does not fall apart a year after use, it is best to use a drill with a metal body.

To your homemade the machine stood normally, did not wobble and thus did not create problems in operation, special attention should be paid to creating the stand. It is installed on the machine bed so that the operator later has the opportunity to move the equipment units longitudinally along the axis. The cartridge will make it possible to carry out significant longitudinal loads. And this has a positive effect on the use of this element in the overall design of the unit.

To make a frame with your own hands, you will just need channels. After this, the frame elements should be attached to each other. We do this using a welding machine. To install the headstock (an electric machine for sharpening knives), you need to immediately place a sheet of thick plywood as a base.

Drive unit

It also needs to be mounted on a special plate. It will be installed on the table, where the equipment installer will be placed. It must be done taking into account the movement of the operator while working on the machine. This way the user will be able to regulate the speed of the shaft, which is located on the headstock.

Bed, tailstock.

Don't forget to install the caliper

This device will serve for uniform movement along and across your lathe equipment bed. This is where you need two pipes with different diameters to build it at home. A tool rest will be placed on it, which serves as a support for the incisors.

When you're all set, be sure to go to a hardware and lighting store to buy a small sheet of clear plastic and a lamp for yourself. They are useful for protecting you from chips and chips that may fly out during grinding and sharpening of equipment. And the lamp will help you cope with your work easier.

Advice: choose a lamp with a movable rod so that you can direct the light flux to a poorly lit area.

All that remains is to buy working tools. It’s better to buy it immediately as a set, but it will cost the owner of a homemade lathe, made by hand, in the region of 300 to 2,000 rubles.

Important! Do not forget to ground the installation with a wire with a solidly grounded neutral.

How to use the equipment correctly

Once you have completed production of your machine, you should test it with a test run. If everything is fine, it is recommended to study the basic rules for working with the equipment. Below is a detailed video and brief instructions on how to behave correctly with the machine.

The list of mandatory requirements for working on the machine includes:

1. Choose the right workpiece so that it is free of knots, cracks and other defects.
2. Securely fix the workpiece before work.
3. Check grounding before starting equipment.
4. Always use a protective shield and replaceable overalls.
5. Check the tool before work - it is forbidden to use a tool with loose handles or without them at all.
6. Any wood can be used as a blank, as long as the humidity is no more than 20%.

These are the basic rules for working on a lathe, which were taught in labor lessons at school. It is also recommended to conduct a six-monthly inspection of the equipment for condition and change the oil every year, and diagnose the engine and other operating elements to identify defects.

Important! Pay special attention to each element; it is better to eliminate defects or defects noticed during the manufacturing or operation process immediately. Also save blueprints.

Moreover, be more responsible when choosing a bed. It must be strong and reliable, because it can be said to be the basis of your machine. The machine is screwed onto a powerful wooden or iron table. It is necessary to level the equipment so that it does not wobble on the floor.

An example of using a homemade machine from a drill.

Well, that's it! Now you can make something on a do-it-yourself lathe, as indicated in photo. Good luck to you and endless inspiration for your work!

“You can never have too many tools” - everyone who has been involved in construction or making something has heard this phrase. The right tool is invaluable when you need to saw something off, weld it, or connect parts. The section on FORUMHOUSE about homemade machines and devices, which is called that, is constantly updated with new products that simplify and optimize the work of a builder or a “jack of all trades.”

We have already told you, and... Let's continue the topic we started. Today we will talk about homemade turning, plumbing and even gardening tools and devices for construction.

Grinder cutting machine

Machines for the workshop are always in demand, but an angle grinder (angle grinder), popularly known as a “grinder,” is one of the favorites in the arsenal of any home craftsman. But the instrument requires a very careful attitude, because any neglect may result in serious injury. Therefore, when cutting large volumes of metal (when making a fence or cutting reinforcement), many people prefer to work with a metal cutting machine.

You can buy a frame for an angle grinder on the Internet, but to save money, you can make a cutting machine yourself, from an “unnecessary” or “superfluous” grinder, which almost every owner of a country house has. As we'll see, it's good for more than just sharpening garden equipment!

Ivici FORUMHOUSE user,
Moscow.

I have an angle grinder weighing 5.5 kg. One day I thought about how to make it easier to use. After all, working with it, moving all the time, is inconvenient - your hands get tired quickly. I decided to make a convenient cutting machine from what I had.

Looking ahead, let's say that the machine (more precisely, its second modification) was a success: it cuts smoothly and without distortions.

Ivici I made it like this - I took a piece of channel No. 6.5 (65 mm wide and 36 mm high). This is the basis of the machine.

A steel strip of 50x5 mm was also required. With its help the angle grinder is secured. A 4x2 cm profile and a three-millimeter piece of steel were also required. A figure eight bolt serves as a turning axis.

In the first version of the machine, a powerful door hinge was used as a rotary axis. But, due to welding, under the influence of high temperature, all the lubricant in the loop burned out, and a backlash appeared in the assembly.

According to the user, the most difficult thing was to accurately mark and drill three holes with a diameter of 14 mm for attaching angle grinders with bolts to the threaded holes intended for installing the side handle.

To do this, I had to use a stepped (conical) metal drill.

I also had to work with a round file. A small bore of the holes, due to the backlash, allows you to move the angle grinder a little during the assembly process and accurately install it. After all the parts are ready, the user welded the piece of hardware holding the angle grinder together, assembled the entire structure in rough form, checked all the corners and, making sure that everything was mounted as it should, finally welded the entire structure.

Ivici

The machine is attached to the support table (a piece of slate 1 cm thick) with six self-tapping screws. You can dispense with the return spring, just tighten the axle bolt more tightly. There are no backlashes or distortions when cutting the workpiece. You can also cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

Another homemade machine from an angle grinder was suggested by a portal user with the nickname Bistok.

As usual, first we start a small construction project or remodel, then we realize that we need new construction tools and devices, and then the search for the most optimal solution begins. Well, don't buy it!

Bistok User FORUMHOUSE

I decided to make the stairs out of metal. To avoid defects, backlashes, and discrepancies, maximum precision is required when cutting metal parts. Therefore, I decided, using an angle grinder as a basis, to make a sawing machine.

Everything that is usually lying around in the home workshop (and it would be a pity to throw it away) of a zealous owner went into action, waiting for its finest hour. As a stand for a cutting machine Bistok I used an overlock table.

The swivel unit is made from the hub from the “nine”, because it has a bearing.

As in the option described above, the most difficult thing was to “catch” the right angle between the cutting disc and the stop angle. After all, the accuracy of sawing metal depends on this unit.

The end result is clearly demonstrated by the photo below.

To turn on the grinder Bistok I made additional wiring - I brought out a regular switch and socket, and an extension cord comes from this switch.
You can buy a homemade machine from a craftsman you know, but it’s much better to upgrade to a creator of devices of this level!

Bistok

I got a portable machine. I welded a corner to the handle to get 3 support points for the angle grinder. The fastening with two bolts was adjusted to the location. I work only in safety glasses. I am very pleased with the result of the work done. I didn’t buy anything extra to make the machine. The cut is exactly 90°.

Budget drilling machines

In addition to cutting machines, various devices for drilling holes in metal are popular. Starting from stationary drilling machines and ending with devices in which a regular drill is fixed, like the “driller” of user FORUMHOUSE with the nickname g8o8r8.

g8o8r8 FORUMHOUSE Member

While drilling many similar holes in thick metal, in order to relieve my hands, I made a simple device based on a clamp welded to a metal support and a pair of clamps to firmly fix the drill. Now drilling a corner or channel has become much easier.

According to the user, drilling 1 hole with a diameter of 4-5 mm takes no more than 30 seconds. Having decided to repeat such a design, you should remember that the load on the drill increases significantly due to the increase in the volume of work. g8o8r8 I've already rebuilt my drill twice.

Also, the user, based on an electric motor, made a small “vertical” machine for drilling holes with a diameter of up to 4 mm in printed circuit boards.

g8o8r8

The long spindle compensates for the inaccuracy of the bearing race groove. For amateur use, this machine is quite suitable. Drilling accuracy remains at an acceptable level.

If you do not have a welding machine, you can assemble the device you need on the farm using bolted connections.

Hand trowel for concrete

No less important than homemade machines for the home workshop are devices for construction and repair. And we can easily make many construction devices with our own hands.

Anyone who has ever dealt with concrete work knows how difficult it is to smooth a freshly laid mixture to perfection. If in small areas you can get by with the rule, then when pouring the area in front of the house or parking lot, you cannot do it with an ordinary tool. A concrete trowel comes to the rescue, which, due to its long handle (from 3 to 12 m), allows you to smooth concrete over a larger area without stepping on the surface being leveled.

The principle of operation of such a device, somewhat reminiscent of a mop, is simple. There is a working profile (also called a “wing”), attached to a long handle. When moving away from you at the ironer, due to the gearbox, the edge opposite to the user rises. That is, due to the angle of inclination of the “wing”, the trowel glides along the concrete and does not collect it in front of itself. When moving towards you, on the contrary, the side facing the worker is lifted up, and the trowel smoothes the concrete again.

ronik55 FORUMHOUSE Member

I know from personal experience how difficult it is to smooth concrete perfectly. I didn’t want to go and buy it for 10 thousand rubles. As a result, my father made a cheap device for smoothing concrete, practically from garbage - all sorts of unnecessary things.

The following photos clearly demonstrate how this ironer works. We take a metal profile (the dimensions depend on the area being smoothed), weld transverse stiffeners to it, on which, in turn, hinge joints made of pipes are fixed.

The most important element, due to which the angle of elevation of the “wing” changes, is a rotating gearbox with a chain.

When the handle was rotated, the chain was wound around the pipe, and one edge of the smoother was raised.

Having carried the iron to the end point, we rotate the handle in the opposite direction. The chain is wound again, and the edge of the smoother is raised, facing the user.

We pull the ironing iron towards ourselves and repeat all the steps until we finish the job.

ronik55

Due to the “pipe-in-pipe” connection and fixation with a cotter pin, you can increase the length of the handle at your discretion. This design is easy to assemble yourself.

See how to make it yourself (follow the link and you will find a drawing).

Garden sprayer and clamp

It all started with Metamorph it was necessary to treat the area against ticks, and the old manual sprayer had given up its life. There was an urgent need to buy a new device or find a replacement for it. While preparing for processing and thinking about what could be done, a user of our portal came across an unnecessary fire extinguisher lying around the household.

Next, we proceed as follows - carefully unscrew the fire extinguisher, pour out the remaining powder and rinse the cylinder with water. Instead of a bell, we screw in an adapter into which, depending on the need, you can screw in a nipple (for pumping air) or a nozzle (for spraying the mixture).

Metamorf FORUMHOUSE Member

Using a homemade sprayer is very simple: fill the fire extinguisher halfway with a special spray liquid, then pump it with air, screw on the sprayer and go poison the ticks.

DIY carpentry tools

QWEsad FORUMHOUSE Member

One day I needed to glue together a lot of wooden panels. I didn't have any clamps. Therefore, I decided to quickly assemble a clamp from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 5x5 cm and metal plates with welded nuts in “tens”.

In total, the user made 3 of these wedges; this was enough to glue a wooden board measuring 1.5x1.7 m and 18 mm thick. To prevent the bars from sticking to the workpiece, under those places where there is a seam and glue may protrude, you can put a newspaper or shoot polyethylene with a stapler.

In order not to spoil the workpiece, you need to place a gasket under the plate into which the screw rests. The gluing width is adjusted by moving the stop bar.

First, I'll tell you about my hobby. I love tinkering: creating with my own hands things needed in the house that increase comfort and decorate the home. I especially like working with wood - carpentry, carpentry. Therefore, I decided to make a woodworking machine with my own hands.

The desire to have at your disposal an “assistant” that speeds up work and improves its quality was the main motive for the creation of the presented combined machine for producing carpentry blanks, or, one might say, a woodworking mini-complex.

My practical, albeit small, experience of working on industrial machines, both woodworking and metal-cutting, turned out to be very useful in the design and manufacture of this mini-complex. Now, with its help, you can perform a wide variety of processing: sawing (both in the longitudinal and transverse direction of the fibers); planing; grinding and polishing, turning and drilling (and you never know what else - it’s difficult to list everything) of wood products, and some operations even of metal.

The mini-complex consists of two, in general, independent machines (except that the first serves as a base or support for the second). The first is a circular saw with an electric jointer. The second is a turning and drilling machine.

Woodworking machine drawings

DIY circular saw with electric jointer

Today we will talk about a circular saw with an electric jointer. Let's take a closer look at its device. But first of all, I note that it was designed, so to speak, according to an aggregate diagram (the jointer knives and the circular saw have a common drive and are mounted on the same working shaft - the rotor). This solution allowed me to make the design simpler and more technologically advanced, which undoubtedly affected the rational placement of the main components and assemblies. This machine has components both industrially manufactured, those ordered from professionals and, of course, made with one’s own hands. There are even unusual parts, for example, the supporting part of the machine - the frame, is nothing more than “legs” from an old sewing machine. And it successfully fit into the overall design with virtually no alterations, or rather, the width of the plane table was adjusted to its appropriate size. The main parts of the frame (drawbars, cross members, spacer supports) were made from channel No. 5. Both structures: frame and bed are welded.

A three-knife rotor installed on the machine with double-sided (double-edged) jointer knives, saw blades with carbide tips, and various types of devices make it possible to produce high-quality lumber products. In the jointing (planing) mode, the width of the processed surface is 260 mm, and the cutting depth is up to 2 mm.

The rotor (or working shaft) is the most important, complex and critical part of the machine. In addition, it is common to the jointer and circular saw. I made it (or rather, ordered it to a turner, and then to a milling machine) according to the drawings. But since this part is very important, and the publication was quite a long time ago, I will give the drawing of the rotor again, especially since I made some changes to it: for example, I lengthened the knives, and, accordingly, the rotor, the seats (trunnions) for other bearings, etc. d.

On the same site, I also “spied” the mechanism for lifting the “circular” table - by adjusting its height on the machine, replacing the circular saw with a suitable cutter (or with the same saw in one or several passes), you can select grooves, “quarters” and folds of various sizes.
The saw blade has a diameter of 300 mm and allows for a maximum cutting height (or groove depth) of up to 80 mm in one pass. A device mounted on the edge of the circular saw table helps cut the edges of the board at different angles. This sliding mechanism (I'll call it a slide) is very convenient when processing the end edges of a board.

The reliability of this machine was tested during the creation of another machine - a lathe. Working on its frame, for three hours in a row I cut longitudinal guide oblong holes (grooves) on the upper flanges of its channels using cutting wheels installed in place of the saw blade, and then polished them.

In the middle of the frame (half the length) there is a working shaft, the bearing units of which are fixed to it using M20x1.5 bolts 70 mm long. The shaft drive is carried out on the left side. If you look from the side of the working place, then the left part is the knife part of the planing head. On the right side there is a shaft journal with a diameter of 32 mm. Depending on the operation being performed, it can be equipped with: a circular saw, a milling cutter, an emery wheel, a grinding wheel or a cutting wheel. Important! The nut securing the tool to the shaft has a right-hand thread. The working surface of the machine is formed from three steel plates (tables).

Two plates are located on either side of the planing rotor (shaft). The first is the receiving table, located closer to the carpenter, the second table is the outgoing table. Both tables have the same dimensions. The outfeed table does not have a special mechanism for adjusting the height relative to the cutting tool, and this operation is carried out as necessary using steel spacers.

The table surfaces are made of 5 mm thick steel sheet in the form of inverted trays (or troughs), installed in frames of 45x45 angles and welded to them.

The circular saw table, on the other hand, can be easily adjusted in height relative to the saw blade during operation using the built-in lifting mechanism. On the right side of the “circular” stop, on the longitudinal guide there is a mechanism that has an angle setting scale, with the help of which you can trim the ends of the boards, not only at a right angle, but also at any other angle. This mechanism is based on the corresponding device for a hand saw.

I note that the described device can be easily removed: removed or lowered. The longitudinal guide is made of steel pipe with a diameter of 17 mm. it is fastened using brackets-ears on the edges of the circular saw table.

On the same side of the same table, using clamping bars with M10 bolts, a guide bar made of rolled steel angle 50x50 mm is attached to the table. The distance between the saw blade and the bar determines the width of the workpiece to be cut. And the bar itself helps to maintain the specified width along the entire length of the workpiece without marking the latter.

The drive of the rotor - the working (tool) shaft - is carried out by a two-ribbed V-belt drive (although in practice I use only one belt) from a three-phase (380 V) electric motor with a power of 3 kW with a rotation speed of 1500 rpm. The engine is located at the very bottom inside the frame and is hinged on a cantilever-hung subframe, which made it possible to solve the problem of belt tension without an additional roller. To ensure high-quality processing of the material, the rotation speed of the working shaft was increased due to an accelerating V-belt drive. The diameter of the motor pulley is one and a half times larger than the diameter of the working shaft pulley, therefore, the knife rotor and circular saw rotate at an angular speed of about 2250 rpm. The electric motor is powered through a four-wire cable, the electrical wiring is made in accordance with all safety standards, and the frame is grounded. In case of a short circuit or overload, the starter can almost instantly turn off the power supply in automatic mode. After operation, the machine should be de-energized and cleaned of sawdust and dust.

The machine has been in operation for six years. I carry out routine maintenance: I inject bearing units, check the serviceability of the jointer knives, the condition of the saw blade teeth, inspect the drive V-belts and power cables of the machine.

It would not be amiss to remind you that the machine is a high-risk mechanism. Rotating parts and cutting tools that are not in use must be covered with secured covers. Operating the machine requires extreme concentration and compliance with safety regulations. Don’t rush, don’t use force to speed up the process, work for your own pleasure. The carpenter's workplace should be well lit, the space around the machine should be sufficiently free, and the floor covering should not be slippery.

Everyone brain craftsmen Good day! For those of you who don’t have large workshops or small tool racks, this will come in handy homemade this article, which contains all the useful tools compactly and can be easily moved to other work sites.

When creating this brain games I tried to make it as compact as possible so that it could be conveniently used even in a small space, and moved even if you don’t have a car. For this purpose, it has transport wheels, and can be moved under the tree you can do it alone, but if you still use a car for this, you will only need a little help when loading.

This compact machine is homemade includes: circular table, router table and jigsaw. It also has a large cabinet in which you can store your other tools.

To show under the tree in action I'll make a couple of boxes out of cheap pine boards.
The video shows how I cut boards for drawers on a circular table using a sled; to obtain the required dimensions, I use an additional strip with a clamp.

Then I make a groove for the base.
The desired angle can be obtained using a miter gauge with a guide.
By removing the cover, you can set the angle of the disk, in this case 45 degrees.
The jigsaw guide is adjustable in three axes, so you can use blades of different sizes - from 100 to 180mm, thereby obtaining a maximum cutting height of 70mm.

Next, I make a handle for the drawer, and for this I use a router, which I use to create a rounded chamfer. There is also a guide for the miter gauge, and a remote bearing will also be useful for milling curved lines. The router itself can be tilted at an angle of 45°.
The box is ready and it is in its designated place.

The tongue-and-groove connection is possible on this brain table do it in two ways. First, using a jigsaw, an additional strip and a miter gauge. And secondly, on a circular table, using a special conductor.

With the largest size disk that can be installed on homemade(235mm), you can get a maximum cut of 70mm. There are small adjustment bolts on the guide to reduce the tilt and, if necessary, even to lock it.

To connect the parts, I chose the second method; for this, some parts should be placed on one side of the jig, and others on the other.

And this is what happened, we move on to the router, this time we use a clamping device to make a groove in the base. To do this, you need to raise the circular saw and set the router at an angle of 45°.

Step 1: Cutting the parts

The creation of a multifunctional table begins - homemade products from cutting all the parts and numbering them.
Next, to obtain a handle slot, 4 corner holes are drilled and “finished” with a jigsaw. Then holes are drilled the same size as the diameter and thickness of the opening system washer. The holes are countersunk.

After this, a place is prepared for installing power and emergency shutdown buttons. Then, using dowels and 50mm self-tapping screws, the body is assembled brain table. If desired, the body parts are treated with varnish, so craft It will look better and last longer.

Having prepared the body, the 3 upper parts are assembled. To do this, parts of the folding frames are cut and the necessary holes are drilled into them. The hole for the tube is drilled of such a diameter that the tube can rotate freely in it, since it is the axis of rotation of the hinged lids.

Then a cavity is selected for the circular saw. I did this using my 3D router; in the absence of something similar, this can be done with a regular router using the appropriate jigs and guides.

On the front side of the circular table cover, a cavity is selected for a quick-release panel, by removing which you can change the angle of inclination of the disk. The panel itself can be used to adjust the milling depth of the cavity.

Having installed the circular saw in the intended cavity, holes for its fastening are marked. A 3D milling machine is well suited for this, because these holes cannot be drilled on a drilling machine due to its limited working surface.

Step 2: Start Build

At this stage, the gradual assembly of a portable multifunctional machine for the workshop begins do-it-yourselfer.

The groove for the guide is marked and selected using a circular table. Two additional pieces of plywood will provide the necessary depth to securely attach the guide strip. Next, a strip with a self-adhesive tape measure applied to it is attached to the lid.

After this, a hole for the router is drilled. Then the tubes for the rotation axes are cut off and the frames of the hinged covers are mounted on the body. In accordance with the drawings, fixing supports are manufactured and installed.

The router cover is applied to the frame, aligned and secured with self-tapping screws through holes in the guide channel.

Then the jigsaw cover is prepared, a groove for this same jigsaw is selected in it. If a material with a non-sliding surface, such as melamine, is used for the cover, then the surface of this cover should be varnished, alternating with sanding.

Having done this, the parts of the vertical lift mechanism of the router are cut out and assembled, with the help of which the milling depth will be adjusted.

Next, two pieces of plywood are glued together to make a holder for the router itself. A hole of the same diameter, or a suitable one, is drilled into them as when creating the router cover. This holder brain milling machine can be made on a CNC machine or even ordered online.

The finished router holder is attached to a vertical lift, and now you can try it in action.

To mark the radius of the tilt grooves, ordinary hinges are temporarily attached to the vertical lift, and scraps of plywood are used to make revolving handles.

Step 3: Completing the Assembly

This stage of assembly homemade products I'll start with those details that I forgot about earlier. They will give stability to the lifting system.

First, the base parts are cut, I did this on my circular table, then they are assembled into a frame, which is attached to the bottom of the multifunctional body brain table. The height of this frame should be the same as the height of the existing wheels.

A latch is attached to the flaps of one of the hinged lids, and a lock is attached to the flaps of the other. This may be useful during transportation crafts and act as a preventive measure against theft of your instrument.

Next, a 4-slot electrical extension cord is prepared, two connectors of which will include a jigsaw and a router, and the remaining two connectors will connect an additional power tool. The socket for the circular saw is connected through the power button and the emergency shutdown button. The extension cord is wound around special handles made for this purpose.

The quick release panels are made from opal methacrylate. They are placed in place, and the slot in the circular saw panel is carefully made by the saw itself. I used an accessory from an old router kit as a guide bearing. This attachment will be useful when routing curved lines.

After this, the level checks the plane of the entire upper part crafts If the hinged covers do not lie in the plane of the central part, this can be easily corrected by adjusting the tilt of the fixing supports.

Next, the perpendicularity of the working parts of the tools and the plane of the table is checked. To check the router, a tube is fixed in it, along which the perpendicularity of the router axis and the table plane is checked, and the parallelism of the guide channel and the circular disk is checked. And finally, the perpendicularity of the jigsaw blade is checked.

After this, the table covers are folded to check whether they interfere brain tools each other.

Step 4: Useful Tools

This step talks about making some useful accessories for the table - homemade products.

First of all, the parts of the slide are cut, then a groove is selected for the guide slider. After this, the two plywood parts are fastened together with screws, and the positions of the screws should be chosen so that they do not interfere with the subsequent modification of this part. Then a measuring tape is glued onto it in a specially prepared groove, and this accessory for brain table varnished, alternating with sanding, thereby creating the necessary smooth surface on this device.

The slides are assembled and placed on the multifunctional homemade and the excess is cut off from them and a middle cut is cut, and then a measuring tape is glued on.

The guide slider is unscrewed from the sled and a groove is made for the tongue and groove conductor. Same as my other circular table.

The channel slider is adjusted so that the roll between the bolts disappears. The slider itself can be stopped if necessary by simply twisting the bot to the maximum.

Next, the parts for the stand are cut, it is assembled, and varnished and sanded. After assembling the rack, a fixing system for it is made. Dowels glued into this fixing system are used as axle guides. At the end of the rack assembly, the locking system handle is made, and then the entire rack is tested in action.

Additionally, a dust collector for the router is installed on the stand, and on the side brain-resistant Threaded bushings for the pressure panel are screwed into the dust collector.

Having done this, the parallelism of the stand and the circular disk is checked, then a measuring tape is glued into the groove of the side wall.

Having finished this, the parts of the tongue and groove jig are cut, which are then glued and cleaned.

Step 5: A few more useful gadgets

This is the last video of this brain guides, and its first part shows how to make a corner stop (to create it, you can paste a printed template or use a ruler). The stop blank can already be cut on the most multifunctional machine.

The thread in the guide slider is inch, but if you need a metric one, you will have to use a tap.

It is definitely worth temporarily screwing the stop blank to the guide to make sure that the turning radius is correct.

Then the parts of the tenon conductor are cut, and in order to reduce friction it is necessary to slightly increase the thickness of the conductor fastening.

To make a pressure panel, a template is glued onto a plywood blank, and the adjustment grooves for this panel are selected using a router brain machine. Threaded bushings are mounted in the required places on the cover with the router.

First, a bearing adjustment system is assembled to avoid wear of the plywood using a metal plate. One of the holes is made large in order to adjust the bearings.

The same thing is done with plywood.

After this, the height adjustment system is mechanized, and now the structure can move in three axes, thereby obtaining the required position.

Finally, the finished saw guide can be tested in action, and it is important to hold the board being sawed with both hands so that it fits firmly enough to the plane of the table.

About the compact multifunctional homemade That's it, good luck in your creativity!