DIY bicycle pedal carriage repair. How to remove a square bracket, octalink and ISIS from a bicycle

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Let's start with the fact that before removing the square carriage, Octalink, ISIS from the bike, we must have no other way to get to the carriage.

Please note that before purchasing a new carriage to replace the old one, you need to know the length of the carriage shaft. And you can’t measure the length unless you remove the connecting rods and the system or unscrew the carriage completely.

Unscrew the carriage using a special tool

First, we will look at the method of removing the carriage using special pullers, since this is the easiest and safest method.

To do this we need a carriage puller:

This puller fits a 24mm wrench and has a through hole.

I recommend buying a puller that turns with a wrench and has a through hole. This hole is needed to press the puller to the carriage. If this is not done, then when unscrewing the carriage, the puller may break off and bend the slots on the cup, after which it will be VERY problematic to unscrew.

I hold the puller to the bottom bracket using an M8 bolt, the same bolts are used to attach the cranks to the bottom bracket shaft, only we need a slightly longer bolt. And also a spacer tube, which I took from an old bushing, so that it wouldn’t take so long to screw the bolt into the carriage (you can just choose a slightly shorter bolt to avoid spacers). This is what it looks like:

Bolt and spacer for pressing the puller to the carriage

1. Install the puller on the carriage

Many people are often confused in which direction to unscrew the carriage; if you do not have some rare Italian road bike, then the carriage unscrews in the direction of pedaling, i.e. the left cup unscrews - counterclockwise, A right cup - clockwise. Is it really easy to remember?

You should start unscrewing from the left cup, since the left cup presses the carriage and therefore the right cup will be much more difficult to unscrew.

I installed the carriage puller on the left cup of the carriage and tightened it with a bolt so that the puller did not fly off.

2. Right cup. I unscrew the right cup clockwise. Here you will most likely need to put in more effort than for the left. I have a pipe in my workshop that I use to increase the leverage. Usually everything with a pipe is unscrewed - even the most soured carriages.

I unscrew the right cup clockwise and take out the cartridge itself

Preparing to install a new carriage

We all did what we wanted and removed the carriage. Now we need to clean the threads in the carriage cup from dirt and sand, lubricate it with oil and screw in the new carriage. It is necessary to use lubricant so that the carriage does not stick to the frame (especially important for aluminum frames) and you can remove it from the bicycle without any problems.

After the threads are lubricated, you can install a new carriage. The main thing is to make sure that you screw in the cups on the right side. To do this, you can look at the carriage itself; it usually says where the left and right sides are.

You can see on the carriage that it fits the frame cup 68 mm and has a right and left side

You should also carefully screw the cups into the frame, because if the cup suddenly stands crooked and you screw it in, you will break the thread, which is especially dangerous for aluminum frames. So if you feel like it's getting tight, don't turn it any further, but go back and try again, most likely you've missed the thread.

How to remove the carriage without a puller?

I wish I could write a “no way” answer to this question, but in reality there are several barbaric methods that do not guarantee results and can damage your bike. If you are ready to take a risk and don’t want to buy a special key, then let’s get started:

1. Large adjustable wrench. Take an adjustable wrench and firmly grasp the carriage cup. We turn the pedals in the direction that the pedals are going and hope that the key will hold the cup and you will unscrew it.

2. Chisel (screwdriver) and hammer. We rest the chisel against the slots of the carriage and hit it hard until the cup moves.

After the work has been done, you are unlikely to be able to use a puller and the only thing left to do is drill out the carriage from the frame or leave it there forever. Therefore, buy yourself a puller or go to a bicycle repair shop.

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In today's article I will share with you my own experience in replacing the carriage on a bicycle.

Carriage(bottom bracket), or carriage assembly, is a bearing assembly that ensures the rotation of the connecting rods with pedals and drive stars relative to the bicycle frame. The main purpose of the carriage is to transmit torque from the pedals to the bicycle wheel.

Carriages there are two types: collapsible(bearings are less strong and are located in cups that are screwed into the frame) and solid(cartridge, with more durable bearings in a rigid housing).

In this case, I replaced the collapsible carriage with a cartridge one.

The first sign that you need to replace the bottom bracket bearings or the bottom bracket as a whole is the bottom bracket shaft shaft. Sometimes, to remove this shackle, it is enough to simply tighten the carriage fastenings, but when the bearings have already deteriorated, this will not help.

Let's start removing the connecting rods and disassembling the old carriage. We have already discussed how to remove pedal cranks in one of the previous articles.

Remove the plastic caps using a screwdriver

Unscrew the nuts using a puller

Using a puller, remove the connecting rods

We unscrew the fixing nut, as well as the cups (I didn’t have a special bicycle wrench, so I had to do this with a screwdriver and a hammer)

We detect the condition of the internal bearings, or rather, what is left of them

IMPORTANT! The cup on the right side (in this case, on the side where the sprockets and chain are located) is unscrewed along left-hand thread. That is, to unscrew it you need to rotate the key 36 mm clockwise

This is what the frame looks like without the carriage

Next we proceed to installing a new carriage(solid, cartridge). To do this, you need to purchase a carriage from a bicycle store with a shaft size exactly the same as the one you installed (+-2 mm is allowed, but plus is better than minus). To avoid mistakes, take the shaft with you, the guys there will accurately measure it and select the right carriage for you. Such a carriage is of course fastened differently and with other non-standard keys. To do this, you will have to buy an additional wrench to tighten the fastenings of the new carriage. It looks like this and costs about 50-60 hryvnia (190-210 rubles).

In my case, I bought a square carriage with a shaft size of 126 mm.

The kit includes the carriage itself with fastenings and 2 bolts

Let's start installing the new carriage. To do this, carefully lubricate the threads on the frame and the threads of the carriage mounting with thick lubricant, so that the next time you replace it you can easily unscrew it

We screw in the carriage from the chain side along the left thread. First with your hands, and then screw it to the end using the purchased key.

After this, we tighten the fastener on the other side along the right-hand thread. We tighten tightly but without fanaticism.

All new carriage installed.

Problems with a bicycle carriage are familiar to every cyclist. It happens that it becomes loose or makes characteristic irritating clicks. This does not always mean that the part needs to be completely replaced. It is enough to competently repair the carriage on a bicycle without postponing this matter for later.

We remove and repair

The carriage can be integrated or non-integrated. The latter, according to the type of device, are divided into cartridge (axle, cups, connecting rods - a single system) and collapsible (parts can be unscrewed so that they can be repaired and cleaned). Typically, the carriages of a touring bike or an average mountain bike are designed in a standard way, so they can be repaired according to a proven pattern.

To make it more convenient, it is better to turn the bike upside down and place it on the handlebars.

Once you are sure that the bike is level and solid, you can proceed to repairs:

1. Carefully remove the left and then the right connecting rod from the axle.
2. We thoroughly wash the carriage assembly and remove old dirt that has accumulated behind the connecting rods. We carefully clean the slots in each cup - if they are clogged, it will not be possible to install the puller.
3. Let's start removing the carriage itself. We start on the left (where there are no stars). If your bicycle has a locking nut, carefully unscrew it with a wrench (you can use a wrench). Nuts of this type usually have right-hand threads, so you will have to apply some force, but try to tighten the nut carefully so as not to rip off the key.
4. After that, take a slotted key or a special key for the carriage. As soon as it fits into the grooves, immediately unscrew the cup with an adjustable wrench with a long handle. If your carriage is collapsible, the cup must be removed along with the bearing.
5. On the right side (where the asterisks are) we perform similar actions using the same long key. The carving on the cup, accordingly, is no longer right-handed, but left-handed, so effort will be required.
6. Next, you need to remove the right cup with the axle or the cartridge (depending on the type of carriage).
7. If you have a collapsible design, remove the bearings from the removed carriage. We carefully clean the places where the old lubricant remains. We wash all parts in kerosene or any other solvent.

After the carriage is cleaned and the parts are dry, install in the reverse order.

Installing a collapsible bicycle carriage

This type of carriage has a standard device that is familiar to all owners of domestic bicycles, which is why it is quite simple to install and configure it.

1. Before starting installation, thoroughly wash the newly purchased carriage and other parts in kerosene (it is better not to use gasoline: it is harmful to plastic, and the seals in the cups may be damaged). We check for small debris and scratches in the frame assembly to which the carriage will be attached. If something gets into the bearings from there, the bike will start squeaking.
2. We carefully examine the ends of the carriage axle (the main thing is not to confuse them!). There should be a special mark on the axle or casings (they are not available everywhere). The bowls have a special carving that makes it impossible to confuse them.
3. A plastic casing must be placed on the axle. We place bearings in the bowls so that the balls are on the inside of the cups. The bearings and threads on the cups are thickly coated with grease.
4. We start collecting from the right. We attach the axle to the cup that is on the right side and screw it into the frame mount all the way, using a slotted wrench. The cup has a left-hand thread.
5. In the same way, screw in the left cup from the opposite side.

After the installation of the carriage is completed, we proceed to the adjustment.

Adjusting the bearings

The cause of extraneous noise, play and unpleasant rattling in the rear wheel carriage is often loose bearings. This can damage them, cause the cups to become deformed, or interfere with smooth shifting. If any suspicious symptoms occur, you need to think about how to tighten the carriage on your bicycle. In this case, it is better not to postpone the adjustment. If you have the skills, you will be able to tighten the carriage even during a trip, bypassing the disassembly stage.

1. To begin work, remove the left connecting rod from the rear carriage and unscrew the lock nut with a special wrench. Then, using a slotted wrench, slightly loosen the left cup.
2. Screw the left cup almost all the way. If you wrap it loosely or too tightly, the axle will begin to play or jam. To avoid the latter, loosen the cup a little (about ¼ turn) with a long wrench.
3. After that, screw the locking nut on top and tighten it until it stops with the same wrench that was used to unscrew it.
4. Let's check how the carriage axis works. To do this, we twist it by hand, then rock it back and forth from side to side. Even a small lift or barely perceptible jam is a good reason to repeat the adjustment from the beginning.

If you cannot find a balance between play and jamming even after several attempts, you will have to replace either the entire carriage or worn or insufficiently high-quality bearings.

To repair a bicycle yourself, you need to have certain skills and knowledge. In this article, we will tell you how to repair a bicycle rear wheel hub, repair a bicycle carriage, and also tell you how to fix a puncture in the rear wheel of a bicycle yourself, and for beginner cyclists, we will tell you what pressure in a bicycle tire should correspond to the norm.

REAR WHEEL BUSHING REPAIR

The most common problem that can occur with your bike's rear hub is a loose or tight cone. If there is weakening in the cone, the wheel will begin to play heavily. In the second case, when the cone is tightened, the bicycle will move much more “tightly” than in normal mode, and the bearings may crunch. One way or another, you need to repair the rear wheel hub of your bicycle as quickly as possible.

To eliminate play or, on the contrary, tighten the cone, wrenches are needed; most often, a 15 mm open-end cone wrench and a 17 mm open-end cone wrench are used. First, you need to start loosening the lock nut, after which you need to move on to loosening or tightening the flare nut to the required position.

Ideally, there should be no backlash. Finally, the locknut must be screwed into place. If the cone is adjusted properly, the wheel will turn easily due to the force of gravity acting on the reflector or nipple.

It also happens that the rear axle of the hub may be broken or bent. The main cause of such a malfunction is usually poor quality parts. If this happens, you need to completely replace the hub axle with a new, better one.

When replacing an axle, or when undergoing scheduled maintenance, or when repairing the rear wheel hub of a bike, removing the freewheel will help to make it more convenient. If the essence of the repair is simply tightening or loosening the cone, then this action is not necessary.

To avoid possible breakdowns, you need to periodically undergo maintenance. Its essence most often comes down to adjusting the cone and washing, cleaning the components and lubricating the bearings.

Less often, bearings, seals or washers are replaced. The cost of repairs can result in large expenses if maintenance was carried out rarely and the bushing was not particularly looked after at all.

For example, it happens that the bearings “eat out” the grooves in the bushing body; this can happen because the axis was bent or insufficiently lubricated. In this case, in order to repair the rear wheel of the bike, you will need to completely replace the hub body, and maybe the wheel itself.

Therefore, in order to avoid such a situation, before going on a long trip on a bicycle, you need to carry out maintenance of your bike, and if problems are found, then fix them in a timely manner.

WE DO REPAIRS OF THE CARRIAGE

One of the most complex components of a bicycle is the carriage. What to do if she let you down along the way, and there is no one to ask for help? It's simple, and after reading the text below, using a minimum number of tools, you can easily disassemble and repair the bicycle carriage.

To disassemble the carriage assembly, the first step is to dismantle the sprockets and connecting rod system. We will not dwell on this in detail, since it is not that difficult, and there is plenty of information on this topic on the Internet.

Touring bicycles and inexpensive mountain bikes are equipped with a standard carriage. The procedure for disassembling it is given below:

1. First of all, you need to unscrew the lock nut on the left using a special wrench;
2. After this, we remove the carriage cup on the same side, using a 16 key for this (note that a right-hand thread is cut on the left side, and a left-hand thread is made similarly on the right side);
3. If necessary, you will need to unscrew the cup on the right. To do this you will need to use a 32 key;
4. Now we take out the carriage assembly. It is best to immediately wash and, accordingly, clean the carriage tube, first of all, the threads;
5. Next, we wash the parts of the carriage assembly with gasoline or kerosene, and at the same time check whether the bearings, cups and axles are intact. If necessary, you need to replace worn parts;
6. The next step is the same operations, only in reverse order: screw the cup on the right to the very end;
7. Now you need to thoroughly lubricate everything with lubricant (lithol), put bearings on the axle, and insert it into place;
8. Next, you need to screw in the cup on the left until the axis stops rotating. And now the cup needs to be gradually released until nothing interferes with the rotation of the axis and it is smooth. It is worth remembering that backlash is not allowed;
9. The lock nut should now be tightened;
10. We make a final check of rotation and absence of play. If this is necessary, then you need to repeat steps 8-9.

REAR WHEEL REPAIR: FIXING A PUNCTURE

To begin with, it is worth saying that repairing the rear wheel of a bicycle may also involve eliminating the “eight” on the wheel or the filling of the wheel hub. However, since these are specific operations that require certain experience and tools, they deserve separate consideration and will not be described in this text. Below we will tell you how to deal with a rear tire puncture, since anyone can experience this.

Before you can repair the wheel, you need to dismantle it. The front wheel is easy to remove, but removing the rear wheel may not be such an easy task for a novice cyclist. Let's take a closer look at how to remove the rear wheel.

HOW TO REMOVE THE REAR WHEEL?

1. If your bike has rim brakes, the first step is to undo them. This is done as follows: you need to bring together the levers to which the pads are attached, and lift the part that secures the cable.
2. Now you should turn the bike over with the saddle down, so that it finds its support on the handlebars and saddle. If your bike is equipped with a headlight or bike computer, you should be careful not to damage them.
3. Next, let's loosen the wheel eccentric that holds the wheel to the frame.
4. Take a position behind the bike. Now you need to slightly straighten the lever in the rear gear selector and pull out the rear wheel, which should rise up without much difficulty.
5. All that remains is to remove the chain from the wheel sprockets. The wheel is now disconnected.

TIRE REMOVAL

To gain access to the punctured tube, you will need to disassemble and remove the tire from the wheel rim. Disassembling will require some skill, so don't be discouraged if you can't do it right away. This happens as follows:

1. The wheel that you removed must be placed with the stars facing up.
2. Now you need to remove the nipple cap.
3. The next step is to use a beading paddle to cling to the edge of the tire and turn into the middle of the wheel.
4. After fixing the bead blade, you need to take another one of the same kind and perform the same actions along the circumference, thereby completely dismantling the wheel.

Since the tire has already been beaded, it can be easily removed, and the process of removing the tube will not complicate you at all.

SEALING THE CAMERA

1. First of all, you need to determine where the camera is punctured. To do this, the camera needs to be inflated and carefully inspected. A characteristic hissing sound will be heard at the puncture site. This place needs to be marked somehow.
2. Then you need to free the chamber from air by pressing the nipple tongue.
3. You should have some fine sandpaper in your repair kit; you need to take it and rub the area where the tire was punctured well.
4. Now you need to apply a thin layer of adhesive. This is done in such a way that the piece on which the glue is applied is slightly larger than the patch in size.
5. Let the glue sit for a couple of minutes, and then you should glue the patch from which the protective film has been previously removed. Be careful not to allow any air bubbles to get under the patch.
6. Now press the patch against the camera as hard and as long as possible.

After sealing the tube, run your hand along the inside of the tire. It is not uncommon for the cause of a puncture to be stuck in the tire, and if so, it needs to be removed. Don't forget about this moment.

That's it, the wheel is repaired.

WHAT SHOULD THE TIRE PRESSURE BE?

Cycling enthusiasts have always been concerned with the question: how much do you need to inflate your tires? This is especially true for beginner cyclists who do not yet have special skills and cannot immediately tell what the pressure in the bicycle tires should be in order to ensure a comfortable and safe ride.

In fact, there is no difficulty here. Most bikes have instructions on their tires indicating the pressure best suited for that particular model. Most often, the pressure range ranges from 2.38 to 4.08 atmospheres.

These bicycle tire pressures are optimal if you ride off-road or in the mountains. There is quite a lot of air volume in the tires of a “gornik”, therefore, there is no need to pump its tires.

Also, do not forget that, given the low pressure and large volume, inflating the tires of the “gornik” should be carried out no more than once a week.

To determine the pressure to which you need to inflate the bike's wheels, you just need to read the inscriptions on the tire. Manufacturers usually indicate the upper and lower pressure limits on tires.

But, unlike a mountain bike, the tires on a road bike need to be inflated to a slightly higher pressure, since the volume of the wheels is small. The pressure value in road tires should be in the range from 6.46 to 9.18 atmospheres. And the pressure must be checked daily.

The traditional way to check is to press on the wheel with your fingers, and if it does not press through, then you can move on. Everyone did this when they were little. But it’s better not to do anything on your own and just pump up the tires depending on the indicators given by the pressure gauge.

Bicycle tire pressures can also change depending on how much the cyclist weighs and what the road is made of. If the route of your trip consists mostly of off-road, mountains or regular rocky roads, then overinflated wheels are clearly not what you need.

Lower tire pressure will allow you to worry less about bumps while riding, and will maximize your handling through traction, while over-inflated tires will make it easier to fall off. But the situation changes on a good highway, where well-inflated tires feel much better.

If the tire pressure is too low (1.9 - 2.17 atmospheres), then this is the cause of many problems. To begin with, the tire can break from the slightest collision with a stone or bump, and if during this the tube is pinched by the rim, then it will be punctured in several places and it will be almost impossible to repair it.

In addition to this, there is also the possibility of damage to the rim, and this, not only does it take a long time to repair, it is also expensive. And lastly, but most unpleasantly, during a sharp turn, a tire with low pressure can jump off the wheel, in which case both the rim and the cyclist will be damaged.