Make a niche wardrobe with your own hands. DIY built-in wardrobe made from various materials

This time I will talk about the process of closing a room niche with a pair of solid sliding doors. The main problem of this project was the unevenness of one wall - the vertical difference was as much as six cm. The wall itself was level, but piled up outwards. That is why it was necessary to introduce an additional element into the design. The left wall of the niche, by the way, turned out to be “up to par” - there were no complaints about it.

As a coupe system, I settled on the traditional Gratis system for me. The choice fell on it, firstly, because of the price, and, secondly, because of the width of the vertical profiles. The niche is quite large and narrow profiles simply wouldn’t look good in it, and thirdly, it was on sale))).

I won’t overload the article with calculations of the system; there is a file for this from the company’s official website.

See here:

We order cutting of parts, and also purchase a kit for doors. So we should have on hand 2 pieces of 10 mm thick laminated chipboard, sawn to size.

As well as a coupe kit - profiles, rollers, brush-schlegel and spring stoppers. The company delivers it in this packaged form. It's nice though. Most stores sell the profile by the meter without any packaging.

The cut profile itself looks like this. It has a C-shape. We will mount it with a bulge on the front side.

Did you admire it? Now let's get straight to work. Based on the calculations made earlier (see the file with formulas), we cut the profile handles. It is advisable to do this with a miter saw, although you can achieve good results with a simple hacksaw - the main thing is not to rush.

To ensure that all the handles are the same size, it is advisable to screw a stopper to the workbench - this will allow you to mark only the first one; we saw the rest in the same way, resting the far end against the stop.

Feed the trimming disc slowly and carefully to ensure a cleaner cut.

We are done with the handles, all that remains is to cut the horizontal elements: the upper and lower tracks and the horizons of the doors themselves.

We also take the dimensions of the horizons from the calculations and cut them from the stop.

The results are exactly the same parts. Fast and easy. Still, trimming helps a lot in this matter - even the simplest one.

We move on to marking the holes in the profile handles. At the top we need to retreat from the edge 8 mm, and at the bottom 8 and 43 mm. To simplify the markings, I use this jig - a simple plate with holes drilled on it.

Now we need to drill out these holes. It is very convenient to use a drilling machine or a drill stand, but you can do without additional accessories. First, drill through with a 5.5 mm drill

Then, using a 9.5 mm drill, we drill holes for the screw heads to the thickness of one (outer plate).

It should look like this from below (about the same from above, but without one hole). To avoid unnecessary jambs, I would advise you to fold the handles in pairs before marking them, as they will stand on the doors.

Let's move on to the assembly itself. We take a chipboard panel, place it on its edge and pull the upper horizon from the corner. There should be an equal distance of approximately 5 mm from the edges.

1. Since the blade fits into the groove very tightly, we help it with gentle blows of a rubber mallet.
2. We repeat the same with the lower horizon.
3. You should hit the mallet even more carefully, as long overhangs can become deformed.
4. Holding the canvas, we take the profile handle and place it on the edge.
5. We align its position with the lower edge of the lower horizon (the upper one is not visible, there may be a slight shift there - this is not critical).

Let's move on to fixing the handle profile. The screws that are always packed with the wheels will help us in this process. The screws should be turned using long Allen keys.

Approximately aligning the profile cutout with the laminated chipboard insert, screw the first self-tapping screw into the groove of the lower horizon. As the screw tightens, it carefully tightens the corner of the insert into the groove.

See photo below

Then, starting from this place, guiding the insert into the groove with one hand, we tap the profile with a mallet in the direction of the free end. You will have to knock harder, so it is advisable to do this across a flat area - to avoid the appearance of dents on the profile. To hammer the chipboard into the profile more tightly, it is better to go through it several times.

Then tighten the top screw.

1. But you shouldn’t wrap it all the way right away. Before reaching 3-4 mm from the end, we stop.
2. We insert the “flyer” of the upper roller under its cap and tighten the self-tapping screw to the end.

• We return to the lower edge of the door, grabbing the lower roller and the screw securing it along the way. The roller is inserted into the groove of the lower horizon.
• It must be pressed against the profile handle and inserted in depth to the end, that is, the spring that pushes it outward must be clamped.
• Throw a screw through the bottom hole, get into the threaded hole in the roller and tighten it. There is no need to tighten it all the way.
• Then carefully turn the door over with the fixed profile facing down. It should be placed on a soft substrate (cardboard or fiberboard) so as not to scratch the coating.

All manipulations to fix the second handle and rollers are repeated. The second door is assembled in the same way. They are folded together and wrapped in stretch film for transportation.

Spring stoppers are inserted into the grooves of the lower tracks. In the tracks themselves, holes for mounting screws are drilled and countersunk.

We move on to the second stage of assembly - creating a structure that compensates for the unevenness of the wall. Since installing sliding doors without installing the filling of the room meant maximum budget, I decided to make all the cuttings into one sheet to make this design. For this reason, one part turned out to be composite. To connect it together, as well as attach it to the side posts, I decided to attach several plates from 16 mm scraps of the same width from the inside.

Photo

We align the parts relative to each other, in order to avoid displacement, we rest them against the “matrix” of even trim. We fix all this to the workbench with clamps.

We place a 16 mm overlay on top, level it in the same way, clamp it with a clamp and fix it with several self-tapping screws.

We fix the same overlay a little higher (to secure the side walls - it is very inconvenient to screw self-tapping screws into the edge of a 10 mm laminated chipboard.

Now, using a Cheron jig for drilling into the end, we attach confirmation ties both to the end and to the face of the workpieces. Stoppers help a lot.

We screw the euroscrews into the resulting holes, assembling the U-shaped box.

At this point, the preparatory stage is completed and the entire structure is transported to the site. The photo shows the niche itself that needs to be closed.

We put the compensating box in place, level it and use a sharp knife to cut the ceiling plinth on both sides.

Then, using the same knife, we carefully separate it from the wall and ceiling. The result is a niche just the size of the box.

Once again we attach the box to the wall. This time the baseboard doesn't bother us anymore. Once again we set it to the level. A laser level is very convenient for this.

We climb onto the stool and begin to transfer the wall profile to the workpiece. A pencil and a wide washer will help us with this.

The next photo shows the marking process in larger detail. The washer rolls along the wall, repeating all its irregularities; a pencil is inserted into its hole, which transfers these irregularities to the workpiece with an indentation the width of the washer.

We move on to removing excess material. Considering that the gap is very large, I had to make several approaches. At first it was filed with a jigsaw very roughly with a file with a large tooth.

The box is once again applied to the wall. It can be seen that the gap has become smaller, but it still remains.

The cutting line is immediately visible in large detail - it is clearly visible that fine-tuning is required.

The second pass was also a jigsaw, but with a metal file.

The final adjustment is carried out with a narrow washer. You can simply draw a pencil along the wall - you will get a minimal indentation.

• The final removal of material is no longer carried out with a jigsaw, which leaves chips, but with a belt sander. Sand off the excess to the marking line.
• We put the box in place again. There is practically no gap. Skolov too.
• We attach the door, look at the gaps and distortions. We don't find it.

The box is fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws. Directly through its sidewall, first with a drill, and then into the resulting hole with a hammer drill, we drill the wall.

We hammer dowel plugs into the holes.

Then we put the box back, once again check the vertical alignment and tighten the screws. The caps are closed with plugs.

The closet plays an important role in any interior. It is not surprising that strict requirements are imposed on it: not to take up too much space, to be spacious, to have a sufficient number of shelves and drawers. The models on the market do not always fully satisfy individual wishes.

But the online store has both ready-made cabinet options and custom-made ones. So experienced craftsmen will assemble the future owner’s closet to suit any of his whims and desires.

Owners of apartments with non-standard layouts find it even more difficult to choose an option that fits into the room. In this case, you can order a cabinet from specialists who will take into account all your wishes regarding the design and internal contents.

Unfortunately, this option is not affordable for everyone. Then the best solution to the problem will be to use your own hands and ingenuity, because assembling a cabinet yourself is not at all difficult!

Preparatory stage

Each room has its own type of construction, so it’s worth familiarizing yourself with the main ones.

A cabinet with a closed front is a straight model with hinged doors. To open them, you need to provide additional space; do not forget about this if you are making a closet for the hallway.

A cabinet with an open front has no doors, and its contents are in plain sight. It makes certain demands on order.

The wardrobe doors are mounted on a rail mechanism and open, moving to the sides. There are designs with top and bottom rails; which one to choose is a matter of taste.

Ideal design for built-in wardrobes

A corner cabinet fills a corner. Suitable for any size room, as long as it is square or similar in shape.

Having chosen a suitable design, you can begin to create a project for the future cabinet. Since this piece of furniture lasts for many years, it is worth considering what functionality may be required from it. It is better to build a drawing on whatman paper, recording all measurements there.

Decide on the location and dimensions of the cabinet. If there is a niche in the room - ideal, but if it is not possible to build it in, choose a place where nothing will interfere with it.

Consider the internal content: the location and number of shelves and drawers, their sizes, additional elements such as mezzanines or interior lighting.

Do not forget about the choice of external decoration and decorations. The colors “oak”, “alder”, “beech” are the most popular today. Or you can choose wood with an interesting pattern and leave the original pattern. Get creative and decorate the doors with a carved pattern.

Materials

The material can be natural wood, plywood, MDF or chipboard - all of them are used by furniture manufacturers.

Wood is environmentally friendly, does not require additional decorations, and is convenient to work with. A wooden cabinet will last for many years and will look solid and impressive. An ideal choice for an interior in a classic style.

Plywood consists of glued veneer sheets (birch or coniferous trees are used). This cheap, practical material is suitable for making almost any furniture. It is best to choose laminated plywood (FOF brand).

Chipboard (chipboard) is the cheapest and most common option. When assembling your own closet, this is usually what you use. Short-lived.

Self-adhesive melamine film is also useful for processing the side edges.

The diameter of the rod must be at least 22 mm. The easiest way is to buy it in a specialized store. You can also buy pens there.

Tools

• Ruler, tape measure, pencil and others for taking measurements and drawing.
• Level.
• Jigsaw or hacksaw for cutting.
• Screwdriver or drill and screwdriver.
• Glue.
• Ratchet key.
• Iron for gluing the edging film.
• Accessories. Each door opening mechanism has its own kit.
• It is better to buy confirmations for a cabinet made of chipboard that are 7 cm long and have a diameter of 0.5 cm.

Progress

First of all, measurements are taken and a drawing of the future cabinet is constructed. The final result depends on a correctly drawn up drawing, so approach it with all seriousness.

It’s not difficult to make cabinet doors with your own hands, the main thing is to correctly calculate the dimensions. If its vertical height is less than the height of the opening, the door will not completely close it, and if it is more, it will not fit. When finding the horizontal dimension, we must not forget about the fastening elements: they will add a few millimeters to it. The width of the doors should be ~3 mm less than the opening.

Now you need to mark the placement of the fastening bolts on the sawn parts and drill all the holes.

Assembly begins with installing the bottom and attaching the walls to it. Make sure that the assembled cabinet fits into the allocated space and that other furniture will not interfere with the opening of the doors. If you are making a wardrobe, the guides are installed at this stage.

The location of drawers and shelves is outlined, shelf supports and guides are installed. They must be strictly parallel to avoid distortion.

It's time to install the top shelves and roof. A gap of ~7 cm is left between the ceiling and roof for the installation of confirmations. Fastening is done manually and finally tightened with a ratchet wrench.

The side shelves are attached to 4 confirmata (two on each side); in some cases, dowels (small wooden cylinders) are used. One end of the dowel is inserted into the cabinet wall, and a shelf is put on the other.

The last step is to install the doors. Before installation, attach the handles with the curve outward. For sliding doors, proper installation of the mechanism is especially important. Take your time, act carefully.

It's time to start the finishing touches. Treat the sections with decorative film and decorate the facade. Install mirrors, interior lighting and other elements.

Tricks and nuances

Rely on existing cabinet designs when designing yours.

A corner cabinet requires more care in design and assembly than a straight cabinet, so it may be too complicated for an inexperienced person.

If you lack experience, it is better to entrust cutting out the parts to a master. His hand will not tremble, and the cuts will be smooth and neat.

To avoid getting a part smaller than needed, consider the thickness of the saw. The wall thickness must be at least 18 mm. Otherwise, the strength of the structure will be insufficient.

While working on the drawing, pay attention to the curvature of the floor. If the floor is not level, gaps may appear between the doors. To avoid this, adjust the installation awnings for a swing mechanism, and change the height of the wheels for a sliding mechanism.

Guides for sliding doors should be parallel. Be extremely careful when marking and installing guides for drawers and shelves.

Drill holes for confirmations symmetrically. Use the correct size drill bit. The exact number of confirmations depends on the number of parts. The confirmations are covered with plugs matching the color of the structure.

Installing a mirror begins with installing a seal around the perimeter. The film is glued to the chipboard sections using an iron. Iron it with a cloth, pressing it as tightly as possible. The edges can be trimmed with a regular knife.

Study photos of handmade cabinets: you will get a charge of inspiration and note interesting ideas for yourself.

We hope our tips helped answer the question of how to make a cabinet with your own hands.

Photos of do-it-yourself cabinets

When organizing your living space, it is very important to think about the placement of storage spaces. This is especially true for small-sized rooms, the owners of which cannot afford to fill the room with bulky chests of drawers or an unlimited number of shelves. Moreover, modern furniture is not cheap. Today we will talk about how to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands, thereby solving all the listed problems in one fell swoop!

Advantages of a built-in wardrobe

Sliding wardrobes are storage space with a sliding door system. This seemingly small feature makes it functional, roomy, convenient and compact for small spaces.

The fact is that sliding doors save precious space that is usually occupied by open partitions. They also provide convenient access to things, allow you to place shelves, hangers, and drawers inside, which can be combined in a comfortable sequence, without fear of disturbing the aesthetics.

In addition to practical properties, sliding wardrobes are a stylish element of the interior, which, if desired, can become either a bright accent thanks to design solutions, or “merge” with the decoration of the walls.

There are several types of wardrobes depending on placement. Among them, built-in ones have a number of advantages. Firstly, due to their location in a niche, they take up virtually no space. Secondly, they allow you to create a holistic composition in the interior without violating the principle of practicality. Thirdly, they are quite easy to make yourself, because the walls act as supporting partitions.

By creating a wardrobe with your own hands, you will not only save money and time, but also design furniture that is ideal specifically for your conditions, adapting to the features of the walls, as well as the size of the niche.

Development of a wardrobe layout

No idea can be implemented without a carefully thought out plan. Before you start assembling the wardrobe, you need to decide what size it will be, what it includes and what it looks like.

Measurements

The dimensions of the future structure largely depend on the height of the ceilings and the area of ​​the niche itself in which the cabinet will be located. It should be rectangular, with an opening of about 70 cm - the shelves have approximately this depth, because with a larger indicator it will be difficult to get things out. But these parts should be 10 cm narrower, taking into account the sliding doors.

It is ideal when the wardrobe is mounted at the height of the ceilings. This is convenient because you don’t have to worry about dust accumulations at the top, and it also allows you to accommodate the maximum number of things with minimal space consumption.

Taking into account the general measurements of the structure, it is necessary to decide on the doors. The width of each partition should not be more than 600 mm, otherwise the heavy element will put a lot of pressure on the rollers and distortion may occur.

The overlap should be approximately 60 mm; with higher values, access to things in the closet will become more difficult.

Filling

When designing the “filling” of a wardrobe, focus on your needs: the number of things and their owners, as well as variety. Modern chests of drawers provide components for different types of items: from bedding to unnecessary electronics. For convenience, create a drawing by trying several options.

The contents of a wardrobe can be distributed according to a simple principle: outerwear - to the side, important small items - closer, valuables - in drawers, and dry clothes - higher. For example, moisture from a coat can transfer to other things, so it is better to place hangers closer to the edge of the structure.

Bed linen should not be stored below - dirt rises from the floor by about 40 cm, even in a closed space. The lower section should be filled with drawers or nets for shoes. Estimate the approximate number of things in the closet in advance to plan the size of the compartments.

Design

Designing the appearance of a wardrobe is the most interesting and creative stage for many. Here it should be borne in mind that we are talking about the design of door facades, since the beauty of the inside is not visible.

Focus on the style of the room. For example, classics love noble patterns and carvings, but modern style prefers laconic lines and non-standard solutions. With minimalism, you can use wall motifs, hiding furniture from view, and with a loft, don’t be afraid to experiment.

The beauty of a built-in wardrobe is that it can be an inconspicuous or striking element of the interior. The facades with entire artistic compositions look original. But if the room does not have a large area, a mirror surface will help visually expand the space.

Preparation: materials and parts

Materials play an important role when creating a built-in wardrobe with your own hands. The durability, strength and external properties of furniture depend on them.

Wood, although considered an excellent basis for a classic or Provence interior, is not suitable for the internal filling of a sliding wardrobe. The fact is that in the niche there will be a higher level of humidity, which negatively affects natural materials. But if this option is irreplaceable for a number of reasons, it is necessary to additionally treat the base with special means.

The ideal choice is MDF or fiberboard. These types have all the positive properties of wood, while being more resistant to environmental influences. They are easy to use - easy to saw, install, and save not only money, but also effort. A little advice: it is recommended to purchase medium or high density fiberboard, since low density is too unstable.

But it is better to avoid drywall - it is an impractical, heavy and fragile material that is definitely not suitable for shelves.

Next, you need to determine what parts you will need during assembly. Note that some elements can be purchased ready-made: this applies to shelves or sliding doors. You can turn to a specialist who will make them according to all the rules, and only do the installation of the cabinet yourself. But other components will have to be purchased in any case - they are irreplaceable.

These items include: door rollers and drawer rails, screws, mounting pins, supports, and hanger rods. This list can be expanded depending on your goals.

Assembling a wardrobe

After carefully developing the wardrobe layout and preparation, it’s time to move on to the most crucial moment - installing all the parts.

Niche

Undoubtedly, the opening into which the cabinet body is installed must first be prepared for this. To prevent the walls from collecting dust, some people prefer to cover it with a layer of plywood or even cover it with wallpaper. But there is a more economical option.

First, remove the old coating using a gel remover. It is completely safe for health. After this, it is necessary to saturate the surface with a water-polymer solution of PVA. This process will take several days, since it is recommended to repeat the procedure several times, after waiting a day. Then we cover the partitions with acrylic enamel. Done - ten years of protection guaranteed.

Shelves

Time to fill the niche with storage. Note that for a built-in wardrobe, options for attaching shelves as in cabinet furniture will be ineffective, since it is impossible to reach the sides from the outside. It is difficult to construct a special frame on your own, but the use of adjustable suspension systems can save the situation.

Another convenient solution is to attach storage to pieces of plinth that support the shelves from below. In general, having decided on the method, installing the internal components of the wardrobe will not cause problems.

Sliding doors

Installing the main feature of sliding wardrobes - sliding doors - is the most difficult stage of the work. You have to install the role-playing mechanism in such a way that it copes with its functions perfectly, ensures easy sliding, clear fixation, and does not make any extraneous sounds.

You need to decide on the choice of suspension. There are three types: bottom rail, top rail and monorail.

In the first case, the lower part of the mechanism serves as support, and the upper part prevents it from falling out. This is the most common and reliable type. Installation is carried out as follows: the upper and lower rails are installed in the page, raised and adjusted until they stop.

In the second case, it’s the other way around—the support goes to the upper part. Thus, the mechanism does not collect dust so much and does not make extraneous sounds. But if handled carelessly, parts can be easily damaged.

The third option is a carriage with two pairs of rollers. In this case, the suspension of each sash moves to another guide.

Doors are installed in the hangers, checked for functionality - and that’s it, the built-in wardrobe is ready!

Video: DIY built-in wardrobe

Ecology of consumption. Life hack: Building a built-in wardrobe with your own hands is quite a troublesome task. Without specific carpentry skills...

Building a built-in wardrobe with your own hands is quite a troublesome task. Without certain carpentry skills, working with wood and getting an excellent result in the end is quite difficult. But everything can be learned with experience. And if you start equipping your house with built-in wardrobes in every niche, starting with an inconspicuous cabinet on the balcony, then in the kitchen, then finding a huge niche in the living room, the cabinets will gradually give in.

It is recommended to build such cabinets for those who really have little space and a lot of things in their house, who want to save money on buying a ready-made cabinet, or who have beautiful unnecessary openings and niches in the walls created just for the cabinet.

A cabinet attached to the wall is good because it is stable, does not wobble or rattle from a person passing by. And most importantly, the absence of side and rear panels allows, with the same external dimensions of the cabinet, to gain significant useful internal volume: an entire additional large drawer (25 liters) or two extra hanging fur coats - isn’t this good luck for the owner of a dozen fur coats and a small room?

Having understood the specifics of design and installation, you can get down to business.

Design

When designing the interior space, shelves and hangers can be modeled to suit your needs. It is necessary to choose such an interval between the shelves that there is practically no empty space left.

It is better to mount the crossbar for hangers closer to the ceiling so as not to waste space.

Compartments for linen and clothes – 30-40 cm high.

If you plan to eventually build a TV or stereo into the closet, secure the space for it in advance.

After the measurements, a drawing is drawn up; you can even try to draw the entire room and the designed cabinet on a computer using special programs. Then the possibility of detailed modeling and the sketch becomes clearer.

The original walls and ceiling, or rather the degree of their curvature, can bring great help or, on the contrary, trouble into the construction of the cabinet. If the ceiling and walls are perfectly aligned and all angles between them are 90 degrees, the cabinet is incredibly lucky. Aligning the parts will be easy.

Another option is to align the planes by level and plumb (more correct and accurate), but then the walls of the built-in closet may deviate significantly from the planes of the walls (if they are very crooked) and this will be noticeable. In general, the choice of what is best to align the cabinet with is made empirically. But all parts must be without gaps, adjacent to the floor, walls and ceiling.

It is better to use the same fittings for the cabinet - handles of the same shape and color, albeit of different sizes, screwed at the same distance from the edges of the drawers and doors.

There are times when it is difficult to cut one large piece (such as a long side wall panel) from one piece of wood. Therefore, you can make long side walls through the borders, that is, attach several small boards with an overlap. Then take two strips of equal length, touch one to the floor, the other to the ceiling, strictly above each other and screw it in with screws. Then, in the remaining distance between them (dimensions are added for overlap), a third sheet is cut out, touched to the wall and screwed to the borders with an overlap. This will create a neat wall with borders. On the front side, these borders can be beautifully covered with doors (if they are made at the level of the overlaps).

It is better to place the cabinet on a hard surface (it is better to remove overhead floors or layers of floor “pie” with insulation). Think about whether it’s worth stripping the base of the floor down to the concrete. Hard surfaces such as parquet or linoleum will support an average cabinet; laminate flooring will most likely have to be removed, as a heavy cabinet can cause waves on the surface.

If you plan to make glass parts in the cabinet, you should think in advance whether to insert them into the doors or make them completely glass. The second option will be easier. Instead of glass, you can use a mirror, which is protected from scratches with a special coating, such as waterproof varnish.

When planning and building a cabinet, do not forget about the characteristics of the material; an important detail, for example, is the direction of the fibers in the wood board. Depending on this, you can cut the material correctly or incorrectly. Wood along the grain is much stronger than across it. In plywood, the layers of fibers are directed crosswise, so the strength qualities at any point are approximately the same. In furniture panels, it is important to ensure that the fibers are directed from one planned attachment point to another. If the fibers on the material are not clearly visible, it is considered that they run along the long side of the sheet, and the part must be cut out, taking into account the attachment points, along it.

During installation, gaps of a few millimeters must be left to allow large wooden parts to expand due to fluctuations in air humidity. These gaps can be filled with small wood chips to prevent dust from passing through. If possible, it is better not to make too long parts (over 80 cm with a width of 60 cm) that will not be supported by anything in the middle (for example, horizontal shelves), since the “fluidity” of the wood will manifest itself in a few years, and the shelf may sag.

Construction using the example of a wardrobe

Sliding wardrobes differ from ordinary built-in ones only in the design of the doors, so the principles of their installation in a wall niche are the same.

First, an internal supporting frame is made; thin panels made of various materials are fixed to the frame: ogralite, textolite, fiberglass. Load-bearing vertical panels (if they are used and not walls) are firmly attached to the wall. Gaps in the inner corners are closed with precisely fitted square or profiled slats.

You can use elements of the room as the side walls of the cabinet, as well as the floor. But if the walls are too crooked, a better alternative would be to install a separately knocked-together cabinet into the wall. This is especially important for a wardrobe, since the curvature of the planes will cause the moving door mechanisms – rollers and rails with doors – to suffer greatly or even not work.

If you install a wardrobe in a niche with uneven side walls and floor, the cabinet's construction mechanisms will quickly wear out. Therefore, before installation, all surfaces are leveled using false panels and beams. If the deviation of the walls from the vertical is insignificant, then the walls are not leveled, but the door is tilted using adjusting screws.

The opening of the wardrobe should be larger and higher than the height of the sliding panels - about 5 cm. The width of the opening of the wardrobe should allow for overlap (when one door overlaps another), it should be at least 2 cm. If there are 4 in the wardrobe sash, the overlap will be 4 cm.

Usually a wardrobe has its own floor inside the wardrobe. This is done not only from a decorative point of view, but mainly to level the floor under the rails - the lower door guide.

For linoleum and laminate, if you don’t want to disassemble it, be sure to cut a strip a few cm wide around the perimeter of the future cabinet under the rails. Sliding wardrobes are not installed on “floating floors”. For carpet, an additional floor is made of chipboard or a backing under the lower door guide so that the door does not press into the pile.

The upper guide is attached to the ceiling. The bottom rail is installed on the floor with an offset of 30 mm relative to the top rail into the depth of the cabinet. First, the doors are checked to see how they move in the grooves, and only then the guides are screwed “tightly” to the floor.

A horizontal clothes hanger is placed in the closet at a distance of at least 6 cm from the mezzanine shelf. There should be at least 150 cm from the same stick to the shelf with shoes (so that hanging clothes do not touch the shoes). The hanger should be at least 21 cm away from the back wall.

When in the extreme open position, the door should not interfere with the drawers being pulled out. It is convenient to divide the interior space of the cabinet into as many sections as there are doors in the cabinet - into two if there are two doors, into three sections if there are three doors.

The installation of doors in a wardrobe is carried out as a last resort - after installing all partitions, walls and floors and completing work on the internal structure. First, install the inner door (starting with the insertion of the upper rollers). Then the right door is installed. Before installing the doors, self-adhesive shock absorbers are installed on the side walls of the furniture frame, which will soften the impact of the door on the walls of the wardrobe. published

A built-in wardrobe can be installed in a bedroom or hallway, in a one-room apartment or a luxurious country house with a large area. These interior items are both extremely functional and modernly stylish; they fit into any interior. You can point out their main advantages:

• Such furniture, with excellent capacity, occupies a minimum of free space in the house;
• you can place all family wardrobe items in one place and get rid of excess furniture for clothes;
• thanks to sliding doors, they do not require free space to open them;
• doors on guides are safe, especially if there are children in the house, they will not pinch fingers like swing systems;
• you can hang a large mirror on the outside;
• sliding wardrobes have a modern fashionable design.

You can order a ready-made model of built-in wardrobes with installation services, assemble the structure yourself from factory parts, or completely manufacture the entire wardrobe yourself.

How to make a built-in corner cabinet with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

In order to do all the work correctly yourself, you must first decide on the location of the future wardrobe, taking into account the space for it, draw up drawings and diagrams detailing the external walls, ceilings, shelves, drawers and hanging rods with their dimensions. Then choose the materials and type of doors with a sliding mechanism and guides. When all the tools and materials are available, it is useful to create a description of the work, where all stages of manufacturing built-in furniture are indicated step by step.

The necessary materials and tools for building a wardrobe are as follows:

• raw materials for the body, walls, shelves and doors (wood, lining, plasterboard, laminate, MDF, fiberboard);
• metal guides;
• rollers for doors;
• fastening elements: bolts, screws, self-tapping screws, angles, brackets, profiles;
• magnetic latches and stoppers for fixation;
• soft dust collector;
• building level;
• roulette;
• drill, screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver;
• a hacksaw for sawing wooden materials or a knife for cutting plasterboard parts;
• hexagon;
• metal scissors or an angle grinder (grinder) with metal discs.

Natural wood is a traditional material for making furniture, which is now also prestigious. For sliding wardrobes, you should select straight-layer sheets without knots, cracks or chips, seasoned and treated with drying oil or emulsion. Wood is the purest natural material, which is durable and magnificent in appearance. But the disadvantages of a wardrobe include its heavy weight, high cost and exposure to moisture, which is important for the room where outerwear is stored.

Wood lining is a less durable material and requires fastening its individual boards. This can be done using PVA glue, joining tongues and grooves. This material is rarely used to create sliding wardrobes, mainly for models built into a niche.

Drywall is easy to process, easy to attach and is protected from moisture. But in itself it is very fragile, and under heavy weight it sags over time. But if you make a rigid frame from metal ribs and plasterboard sheets, you can get a reliable and durable structure. It is used to create internal shelves, niches and partitions in wardrobes due to ease of installation and low cost compared to wood and laminated boards. But sliding doors are not made from plasterboard, since it will crack if the doors are slammed shut regularly.

Laminate, MDF and fiberboard are considered by many to be the most successful materials for the production of sliding wardrobes. They are durable, easy to process, and protected from moisture thanks to the special microstructure of the wood and moisture-resistant components added to the fibers. The laminated surface has a smooth, shiny appearance in any color and can be washed with a damp cloth. To produce such furniture, medium- and high-density fiberboard is used, which is less susceptible to mechanical damage and deformation.

The location should be chosen based on the area of ​​the apartment and the number of things stored. The easiest way is to build a wardrobe into a niche in the hallway, which is available in most apartments with a standard layout. Usually, from the moment of housewarming, they are equipped with hinged doors that can be easily dismantled. Three walls are already ready and all that remains is to equip the place with a system of guide rails and sliding doors.

A similar option can be used with a full-wall niche, using existing ceilings in any room. They will serve as three walls of the closet, the fourth with moving doors will have to be installed independently. Such models can be installed in the bedroom, nursery, or living room. The advantage is that all items of clothing are at hand in the living room, but the disadvantage is that such a design takes away the usable area of ​​the room.

In small apartments, to save room space, you can install a corner wardrobe yourself. In profile it will have a triangular shape, two existing walls of the room and a third being built - with a sliding door. Due to the small dimensions, only one leaf can be used. If the space of the living room allows, then many build a corner version of a rectangular shape. It already has 2 of its own walls, more internal space where you can place rods with hangers, drawers and shelving.

The finished model is a cabinet wardrobe with 4 walls. It can be placed across the room, then it will divide the room, performing the function of zoning. And if you place it close to the wall, then your clothes will have additional protection from cold and dampness.

In a country house, it is possible to equip a wardrobe in the attic, if the attic space is insulated, protected from moisture, and has a fine finish. There are two options for placing an external wall with sliding doors: along the inclined floors or across them. In any case, you cannot do without non-standard parts with beveled corners. This will complicate the assembly work, but will allow you to create an original interior and provide more free space on the 1st floor.

The assembly of the structure begins with the installation of the base. If it has adjustable legs, then you need to use them to create a horizontal level of the lower ceiling. The disadvantage of this design is that the lower part of the cabinet rises several centimeters above the floor, and dust penetrates into the voids. Next, you need to assemble the vertical stiffening ribs of the structure, attaching them to the base; their correct position determines the entire stability of the cabinet. After this, transverse ceilings, shelves and rods are installed. The thin rear wall is screwed or nailed to a ready-made rigid frame.

Then we assemble the sliding sash system. The bottom rail is installed first. It is not secured completely; first you need to insert it and try on the roller wheels from the door. Then the position of the upper rail is marked on them. Both tracks are attached to the body, the door on rollers is inserted inside and adjusted using the hex head screw at the bottom of the end. It is necessary that it moves freely along the guides without much effort. Then a duster brush is attached to the bottom of the sash, and fixing stops are attached to the side.

Lighting for a wardrobe is best selected from LED spotlights. They create an even and flicker-free light, are trouble-free and last much longer than conventional incandescent lamps. They consume low power, which saves energy, do not emit much heat, so the surrounding surface does not deteriorate under their influence.

If all the parts of the cabinet body are made independently, then for the upper part you can provide a special protrusion that extends beyond the plane of the folding doors. Round holes are cut out in it and lamps are mounted there in a row; 3-4 lamps are enough for 1 meter of length. This creates a modern and stylish design, and the inside of the cabinet will be effectively lit. This method requires additional wiring from the household network, but you can simplify the task by using battery-powered pendant lights. Lighting can also be installed in a cabinet niche, making it easier to navigate inside; touch sensors can be built in to save electricity or battery charge.

Facade decoration is most often done using a mirror. This is the most practical option for furniture that serves as a wardrobe. Since large full-length mirrors have a lot of weight, the design of sliding doors should be as strong as possible. It is worth choosing high-density MDF and chipboard or dense types of wood as materials; lining will not work. The facade of sliding wardrobes can be made of various decorative materials: colored plastic, transparent or translucent PVC, laminated plywood or light organic glass. The strength of facade materials is not important, since the internal stiffeners take the entire load.

The filling of the wardrobe should be carried out in accordance with your needs and the wealth of your personal wardrobe. But regardless of the amount of clothing, the standard model of such furniture should contain the following elements:

• horizontal rods for hanging suits, coats, jackets, raincoats, jackets, shirts;
• pull-out trouser bars;
• closed and open shelves for small accessories;
• drawers for underwear, T-shirts, knitwear, bedding;
• lower shelves for shoes.

If the wardrobe has small dimensions, for example 3 doors in length, then you can install one longitudinal rod at 2/3 level, where you can hang all outerwear on hangers. Use the rest for drawers, and leave some space on top for open shelving. At the bottom, you can organize a full-length shoe compartment, which is separated from the main space by a horizontal shelf.

In more spacious models of wardrobes - the entire wall of the bedroom or large corner ones, you can make several rows of shelving, separate horizontal rods for summer and winter clothes, a compartment for trousers and open shelves at full height. You can even find a place for an interior mirror and try on outfits in front of it. Then the built-in wardrobe can turn into a full-fledged isolated dressing room.

Cost of work

Prices for materials depend on the specific region and suppliers. The most expensive raw material for the manufacture of sliding wardrobes is natural wood, especially elite varieties, aged for several years and treated with reinforcing compounds. Lower in cost are laminated MDF and chipboard, then high-quality polished lining. Moisture-resistant plasterboard is considered the cheapest, but it must be taken into account that it requires metal profiles in sufficient quantities, and the door will have to be made of other materials. In addition, you need to take into account the costs of fasteners, aluminum guides, rollers and stoppers.