Spiral cutters. Wood cutters for a manual router: types, features, application Screw cutter

A manual milling machine is a high-performance equipment. If you have a large number of interchangeable tools, they can be used to perform a wide variety of work with wood. For this purpose, various types of cutters have been developed and produced. Today, we will talk about the types of cutters and their purpose, and also touch on the main selection criteria.

Classification and types of cutters for wood processing

Wood cutters for a hand router can be divided into the following types:

• Designed for processing wood edges (). Such a tool is equipped with a guide bearing, which ensures the evenness of the processed edge of the product. Spiral cutters also fall into this category.

• Flat end slot cutters. To use them, you will need a stop and a certain practical skill, since without a template it is almost impossible to get an even rectangular groove.

• Fillet cutters, designed for milling a semicircular groove in the end of a wooden block. Such cutters are also quite versatile, since the size of the groove arc depends on the depth of immersion of the cutter in the material. Fillet cutters with support bearings allow you to produce decorative furniture slats.

• V-face slot cutters. When using them, you can get a shallow groove, the side walls of which will be inclined relative to each other at an angle of 90 0. By increasing the depth of penetration of such a cutter into the material, the groove will have smooth walls.

• Reverse cone tenon cutter, to obtain dovetail grooves. Such a tool is indispensable when performing repair work on furniture, when one fragment is removed and the second is secured to the base using the specified groove.

• Cone cutters. With their help, the outer edges of the product are processed, which, when ready, must have chamfers of a strictly established height and angle of inclination. The depth of penetration of such a cutter into the wood can be limited by installing a thrust bearing, similar to that used for edge cutters.

• Moulders, using which you can obtain rounded edges. A set of wood cutters for a hand router usually includes several standard sizes of such a tool, which allows you to create edges with different radii of curvature. Installing a support bearing allows you to further obtain a straight edge when the tool is inserted deeper into the wood.

• Quarter cutters. They create not only a vertical, but also a horizontal edge, and therefore are used in the manufacture and repair of wooden window frames.

• Disc cutters. They are also designed for making grooves, but, unlike groove cutters, they work not at the end, but at the periphery of their working part. A set of such cutters of various diameters (3...6 mm) allows you to obtain grooves with a guaranteed depth along the entire length of the processing area. In this case, a support bearing is not required. Disc cutters with an increased height of the working part are sometimes called rebated cutters, and are used to produce window grooves for glass in wooden frames.

• Combination cutters According to the capabilities provided, they combine tenon and groove types.

The listed versions of wood cutters for a manual router can be used not only when processing wood, but also a number of other materials, in particular plasterboard boards, multi-layer plywood, etc.

Designs of cutters and their influence on the technology of milling operations

Wood cutters for a manual router can have stacked and monolithic designs. In the first case, the design of the tool is a certain set of plates made of high-speed steel, which are attached to the cutter shank by soldering with copper alloys (sometimes, in cheaper sets, tool steel is used instead of a carbide alloy, and alloy structural steel is used as the shank material).

In the second case, the cutter is a monolithic tool, which is made of tool steel. A special type of cutter for a hand router is formed by mounted cutters, which consist of a removable plate, which is then mounted on an adapter shank. Such cutters are the most technologically advanced to use, since when the cutting blade becomes dull on one side, the removable plate can be turned over to the opposite side and continue to use the tool.

When choosing a set of tools in question, pay attention to the following:

• Soldering of typesetting cutters must be done in such a way that the tool does not lose its longitudinal stability during long-term processing, especially if the workpiece is made of hornbeam, pear, oak and other hardwoods;
• When soldering tools, grades PSr40 or PSr37.5, with a high content of silver and copper, should be used as solders. Solders of other brands usually include nickel, which impairs the strength of the connection between the plates and the shank;
• The easiest way to check the thermal strength of a set cutter is by the thermal deformation of the tool during heating of each tooth to a temperature of 200...250 0 C: the tool after such heat treatment should not allow its longitudinal axis to run out by more than 0.05 mm;
• The stacking cutter should not be made by welding the shank to the working cutting part. Firstly, at the site of the weld, the strength of the metal is always reduced by 15...20%, and, secondly, with sharp impacts (for example, when cutting a cutter into hard wood), chips may appear on the surface of the weld. The use of such a cutter is unacceptable.

It is especially worth highlighting the problem of the hardness of cutters for a hand router. Manufacturers of sets of such tools may be from China. The price of such a tool is noticeably lower, but the quality of the metal from which the equipment is made also decreases. Most often this concerns monolithic cutters. It is impossible to evaluate the steel grade under normal conditions, but the test can be performed at home. To do this, it is best to use a calibrated file, after contact with which there should be no visible marks on the working surface of the cutter. This roughly corresponds to a hardness of 58…62 HRC.

The durability of cutters is determined by the intensity of their use. High-quality stacking cutters with working plates made of high-speed steels have the best durability, while monolithic cutters made from ordinary tool steel have the least durability.

How to choose a wood cutter for a hand router?

Having decided to purchase a set of cutters of the highest quality, it makes sense to analyze the criteria for choosing such a tool. The following are usually taken into account:

1. Shank dimensions. This size (for an imported set produced by a European brand, it can be indicated in inches) will determine the possibility of sharing the equipment with a hand router. The problem will not arise if the design of the router provides collet clamps. But even in this case, the diameter of the collet must be compatible with the diameter of the shank. The most common discrepancies are caused by different length measures. For example, shanks with a diameter of ¼ or ½ inch in conversion will give a diameter value of 6.35 and 12.7 mm. The metric sizes of the most common types of collets are 6.8 and 12 mm, so it will not be possible to combine the mounting points.

1. Blade material Wood cutters for imported manual routers are marked with the letters HM (carbide) and HSS (high-speed steel). Carbide cutters are characterized by increased fragility, so when cutting into hard wood, they can quickly chip. But they can successfully cope with milling A0 or A00 aluminum. If you intend to process hard wood, it is more practical to use high-speed steel grades R6M3, R6M5 or 10R6M5.
2. Blade position. They can be placed parallel to the tool axis, or at some angle. Vertical blades do not cut, but chop wood, which practically translates into significant impact loads. In such conditions, it is quite difficult to work with a hand router, and the resulting surface will have to be ground. Therefore, it is advisable to use plate cutters with vertical plates in preliminary operations, when the main thing is maximum material removal. On the contrary, inclined blades cut wood cleaner and are used at the final stages of milling.

The optimal set of cutters for wood includes two edge cutters (for metric and inch shanks), three end mills (diameters 6.12, 18 mm), two groove cutters (including one for dovetail), one each figured and corner cutter. More advanced combinations are used for professional wood milling purposes.

From this article you can find out what a cutting element such as a wood cutter for a hand router is. The text sets out a detailed classification of products: the main types and features of parts, their technical characteristics and practical use. The article contains useful recommendations that will help you decide on the choice of cutters for hand tools.

A hand router is a convenient and effective tool designed for processing lumber, including shaped, as well as flat surfaces. In addition, this device is suitable for forming various technological recesses, for example, grooves, ridges, recesses for installing hinges. To do this, it is enough to buy cutters of the appropriate configuration. Each such element has individual design features and is used to perform specific functions.

Purpose of a hand cutter for wood:

1. Edge processing - involves the use of a cutter for merging wood for a manual router, when it is necessary to connect various workpieces together by connecting a tongue/groove.
2. Insertion of hinges and other fittings.
3. Decorating - in this case, cutters are used to form three-dimensional shapes on the surface of flat products, as well as for the production of wooden blanks with complex configurations.

Professionals know dozens of options for using cutters on a manual router. However, in order to correctly determine the choice of cutting parts for a tool, it is advisable to study the official classification of existing products. Once you understand what cutters are and the features of their use, it will be much easier to make a choice.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the unit of measurement for the diameter of the shank. This can be done in millimeters or inches. The unit of measurement depends on the type of collets that are included with the router. These components are designed to clamp the shank. If the size is calculated in millimeters, then the most common options will be products with a diameter of 6, 12 and 8 mm. If inches are taken as the unit of measurement, in this case it will be possible to buy cutters for a hand router in only two sizes - ½ and ¼.

Note! You cannot combine a millimeter shank and an inch collet and vice versa. This may cause the tool to break.

Types of cutters for a manual wood router: typesdesigns

There are dozens of product options on the market with different purposes and costs. If we consider the design features of cutting elements, we can distinguish the following types of wood cutters for a hand router:

1. Prefabricated - have the form of blanks with welded cutting edges. These cutters are very easy to manufacture, which is why most products on the market have a similar design.
2. With replaceable edges – products are equipped with replaceable cutting edges that have double-sided sharpening. When the knife becomes dull on one side, the cutter can be turned over and used further.
3. Monolithic - cutters with cutting edges machined at the base. They rarely break, but after several sharpenings the part will have to be replaced.

Types of wood cutters: classification of products by blade type

Milling cutters can have vertical, spiral or inclined blades. Products with straight edges will cut pieces of wood from the workpiece, increasing the likelihood that chips will appear during the cutting process. As a result, the quality of milling is significantly reduced. This does not happen with angled blades.

Consumers can buy wood cutters with two types of blades:

1. High-speed cutting (HM) - used on surfaces made of soft wood.
2. Carbide (HSS) – used for machining hard surfaces.

Products with carbide blades have a higher temperature coefficient and have improved characteristics, which affects their cost.

Classification of cutters: overview of the main types of products

Milling cutters are rotating parts studded with teeth. These elements are available in various configurations. Milling cutters can be used for processing metal and plastic surfaces, but they are most often used for working with wood.

The following types of products are distinguished:

• end;
• end;
• cylindrical or slotted straight;
• shaped elements, which can be both groove and edge;
• disk, etc.

Helpful advice! If you periodically lubricate the support bearing, you can increase the life of the part.

Features of wood end mills for hand tools

Wood end mills for a hand router have cutting edges on the end side of the working part. Moreover, they work not only through the application of axial load. These cutters also use side edges, which makes it possible to move the rotating element in the plane of the support pad on the router. As a result of this, it is possible to obtain various selections and grooves in the wood. Such parts may have a different number of cutting edges, which affects the cleanliness of the processing.

In most cases, end mills have a monolithic design, but sometimes you can find composite ones, for example, hole saws, used as cutters for a wood drill. This option is used in cases where there is no manual router at hand.

• end;
• spiral;
• burrs;

• profile;
• conical;
• spherical.

Wood end mills are used to form grooves of various configurations and sizes. They are suitable not only for making wooden products, but also for creating tongue and groove joints. Therefore, end mills are often classified as slotted products.

Profile cutters represent a wide group of components for performing the following tasks:

• end processing;
• formation of grooves with a complex configuration;
• decorating the surface with ornaments.

Wood burrs have another name - cutters. They are designed for making holes with a specific configuration. Such cutters are used at the intermediate stage of processing. In addition, they can be used to finalize the configuration of some parts.

Classification of edge cutters for wood for a manual router

Edge cutters are the most common group, since hand tools are most often used for making edges on wood products. Even in large sets, the bulk of the parts are edge cutters. This option is more preferable for home craftsmen. It is easier to buy a set of wood cutters for a hand router than to select these elements one by one.

This group includes:

• profile - to give an intricate shape to the edges of the product;
• molded or shaped - to round the edge, thereby obtaining a convex shape of ¼ of the circle;
• conical – designed for chamfering at an angle, the most common option is 45 °;
• disk cutters for wood - for forming grooves in the edge part of the product;
• folded - designed for cutting out quarters in the edge part of the product;

• fillet - used to make grooves in the edge on ¼ of a circle;
• figurine - designed for making panel edges.

In most cases, edge cutters are equipped with a thrust bearing. This element limits the movement of the tool, preventing it from sinking into the wood. In this case, the cutting part of the part can be located above or below the bearing. By setting the tool support pad to a certain position, you can adjust the depth of the cutter overhang.

Helpful advice! If the cutter makes large cuts, it is advisable to carry out the processing process of the product in several stages, each time deepening it into the material until the support bearing operates.

In some cases, there is no bearing in the cutter design. To work with such a part, you will need a template and a copy sleeve or parallel stop. The size of molding cutters depends on the height of the cutting part. If the profile has several roundings, then the manufacturer indicates the dimensions of the largest diameter that can be obtained using such a part. Moreover, the distance between the cutting parts can be adjusted at your discretion.

Horizontal type figurine cutters have a large diameter and weight. Such elements require a lot of cutting force, for this reason they are manufactured exclusively with a 12 mm shank. These cutters are designed for a router with a stationary structure.

Related article:

TO accessories, operating instructions. Recommendations for choosing designs and a review of the best models.

Classification of groove cutters for wood for a manual router

The main purpose of a groove cutter for wood is to make grooves in wood - grooves.

There are several types of such cutters:

• fillets - these parts are designed for making semicircular grooves;
• conical - elements are used for applying threads to flat surfaces;
• spiral cutters for wood for a manual router - in many ways similar to end elements. However, they have a more pronounced cutting edge located on the outside. Essentially, the design of a spiral wood router is similar to a drill bit;

• T-shaped cutters for forming grooves of the appropriate shape;
• Dovetail elements;
• shaped;
• straight groove cutters for wood - cylindrical parts that form a groove with a rectangular cross-section;
• combined - cutters are used to connect large-sized wooden panels.

Combination elements include tenon/groove cutters. Most often, such elements have a monolithic design, but there are also options equipped with carbide cutting edges. They are used for joining workpieces.

Copy cutters or straight cutters are the smallest group of components for a manual router. Between themselves, these parts differ in the number of cutting edges, sizes, as well as the nature of the placement of thrust surfaces and bearings, which can be located both above and below. There are also options with double-sided placement in relation to the cutting part. During operation, the bearing moves according to a template, making it possible to obtain a part of the required configuration from a workpiece.

The head of fillet cutters has a rounded shape. The resulting groove in cross-section looks like the letter “U”. The walls of the recess can be rounded immediately at the surface or located at a right angle for some time. It depends on the depth of the cut.

Note! Although a fillet is considered a semicircular notch, cutters that form a V-shaped groove are also included in this category. If during the work you need to make grooves with different angles of inclination of the walls, it is advisable to have an appropriate set of wood cutters for a hand router, where there are cutting elements of different configurations.

Wood cutter for hand router: choosing the optimal set for the job

Buying the right woodworking tool is not a guarantee of excellent results. To ensure accurate and high-quality processing of the material, it is advisable to purchase good equipment. For these purposes, sets of wood cutters for a hand router are designed, which include a set of cutting parts suitable for performing specific jobs.

What are the best wood cutters to buy for a hand router?

When choosing equipment for a hand router, you need to pay attention to the main criteria:

1. Workmanship.
2. Thermal strength level.
3. Type of connection between the cutting part and the shank.
4. Solder material.

Before purchasing a set of wood cutters, you should pay attention to the quality of the soldering. It must be done so that during long-term operation the tool does not lose its longitudinal stability. This is especially true in cases where the work uses products made from hard wood, for example, pear, hornbeam, oak, etc.

The following grades of solder are considered high quality: PSr 37.5 and PS p40. They are characterized by a high content of copper and silver. If a material of a different brand is used for soldering the plates and shank, most likely it contains nickel, which does not provide the required level of strength of the joints. It is not allowed to use elements in sets of cutters for a hand router, in which the working cutting part is connected to the shank by welding. This kind of equipment is not the best option.

Monolithic cutters also need to be checked for the hardness of the material of manufacture. This operation can be performed at home. To do this, just go over the working part of the cutter with a calibrated file. If no visible marks remain on the surface, then the element is made of high-quality material. The optimal hardness is 58-62 HRC.

Note! The quality of work also depends on the availability of additional devices. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase a set of templates and stops.

A brief overview of the catalog of Encor cutters for a manual router

Very often, manufacturers offer craftsmen to purchase a ready-made set designed to perform the same type of work. For example, some Encor wood cutters for a manual router are combined into kits that allow you to achieve a certain result. Such sets are used to make identical joints or wooden products. Moreover, in the second case, the cutters allow you to complete a full processing cycle.

In the catalog of Enkor cutters there are sets with different numbers of elements. For example, a set consisting of two combination frame cutters with a 12 mm shank can be used to create frame products. These elements are designed not only to form the inner edge. They can be used as corner joint cutters for a hand router.

Using this set, you can create not only frame products, for example, thin window frames, but also join wooden boards into large panels.

Of course, each of the cutters in this set can act as an independent element with which you can perform other operations on processing wooden products.

Consumers can buy a set of Enkor wood cutters for making lining. Using these elements, you can form the edge of wooden products, which can subsequently be used for interior finishing work. In addition, the manufacturer offers sets of decorative cutters, which can include from 4 to 12 elements with different configurations. The average price of sets ranges from 1370 to 8300 rubles.

Review of the catalog of wood cutters for the SMT manual router

The products of the Italian manufacturer SMT are in high demand among consumers. On sale are individual cutting elements and entire sets designed to perform various jobs.

The catalog contains the following types of SMT cutters for wood for a manual router:

• groove and end;
• overtaking;
• for furniture strapping and splicing;
• disk;
• T-shaped and Dovetail;
• paneled;
• edge molding;
• profile;
• jointing and chamfering.

The kits offered by the manufacturer are designed to perform certain types of work or to form specific connections. The buyer can purchase a ready-made kit designed for the manufacture of doors, furniture facades, lining, trim and various bindings. The cost of the sets varies between 5610-63000 rubles.

Buying hand cutters for wood: prices for popular types of products

Wood cutters are suitable not only for making products from solid wood. These elements can be used for processing lumber such as plywood, chipboard, veneer, fiberboard, etc.

Average prices for Enkor cutters:

Type of cutters	Type	price, rub.
Grooved	V-shaped fillets	from 185
	Direct	from 189
	Shaped	from 190
	Structural T-shaped	from 202
	Structural	from 206
	Fillet	from 212
Edge	Direct	from 220
	Mouldings	from 287
	Conical	from 352
	Folded	from 405
	Half-rod	from 519
	Fillet	from 550
	Curly	from 615
	Adjustable moulders	from 1500
	Multidisciplinary	from 1570
Combined	Universal	from 1130
	Framework	from 2160

The existing range of components for a hand router has several classification options. These products differ in design, tooth structure, and material of manufacture. By selecting a cutter with the necessary characteristics, you can create an edge, grooves, ledges, grooves and other elements of the desired size and configuration in a wooden workpiece. In addition, cutting parts are used to install various functional and structural elements. For example, hinges, locks, latches.

Helpful information

Milling cutters for a hand-held wood router are designed for processing various workpieces, parts and structures made of wood, as well as its derivative saw materials (chipboard, fibreboard, plywood, veneer, etc.) and are, in fact, working equipment for a hand-held on wood. In general, using such a tool, equipped with special equipment, it is possible to process the widest range of known materials. But here we will talk specifically about working with wood and saw materials.

Application

It is widespread and practiced when performing various construction, finishing, repair and installation works made of wood. This processing method makes it possible to create a wide variety of elements on wooden structures: grooves, ledges, edges, profiles, grooves, etc. This processing allows you to articulate wooden blanks and structures, ideally fitting the component parts to each other, and with the help of recessed cavities, various structural and functional elements (locks, latches, hinges, lamps, etc.) can be inserted into the wood.

Equipment classification

There are several classification options for this equipment, taking into account various characteristic features. They are divided by the structure of the teeth, the design of the body of the tool (solid, welded, brazed and prefabricated), as well as by the material from which they are made (hard alloys, high-speed steel, mineral ceramics and rarer new high-tech materials). Solid ones are made from the same material and are in this sense monolithic; in welded ones, the stronger cutting elements are directly welded to the body; in brazed ones, they are soldered on, and in prefabricated ones they are fastened using connecting elements.

In our online store you can always choose and purchase not only a single copy of the equipment, but also a set of wood cutters for the router.

Having a milling machine really simplifies the work of inserting hinges, forming complex holes, recesses, wood carving, etc. But this does not mean at all that it is necessary to have professional and expensive equipment: it is enough to have a simple manual device.

The only thing you need is to be able to basicly handle wood and use power tools. In addition, you need to have a desire, otherwise without this there will never be a result. Those who have no desire to work simply buy furniture or hire craftsmen to, for example, install a new door and cut locks. Any work, especially with power tools, requires certain knowledge, and especially safety precautions.

The milling device is designed for processing both wood and metal. With its help, it is possible to form recesses or holes of any configuration. This greatly simplifies tasks such as inserting hinges and inserting locks. Doing this with a chisel and an electric drill is not so easy, and it takes a lot of time.

There are stationary milling devices and portable (manual). Hand-held electric milling machines are considered universal devices, with the help of which, in the presence of attachments, it is possible to perform operations for various purposes; you just need to change the position of the part in relation to the device or vice versa.

Stationary devices are used in factories or factories where mass production of wood or metal products is established. Under such conditions, the cutting attachment is stationary, and the workpiece moves along the desired path. When using a hand tool, on the contrary, the part is fixed motionless and only then it is processed, although there are parts that require fixing a hand tool. This is provided for in the design, therefore, it is considered more universal. This is especially true when a large number of parts need to be processed, and it is not possible to use a stationary machine.

A homemade milling machine is a horizontal platform with a hole in the center, to which a hand-held device is attached from below.

There are many types of milling machines, but for use at home or for starting your own business, universal models are more suitable. As a rule, they are equipped with a set of cutters and various devices for performing various types of operations. The only thing is that if you have a manual milling cutter, simple operations can take much longer than when using a stationary machine.

Using a manual milling device it is possible to:

• Make grooves or recesses of any shape (curly, rectangular, combined).
• Drill through and non-through holes.
• Process ends and edges of any configuration.
• Cut out complex shaped parts.
• Apply drawings or patterns to the surface of parts.
• Copy parts if necessary.

Copying parts is one of the functions of any electric milling machine.

The presence of such functions makes it possible to simplify the production of the same type of furniture or the production of identical parts not related to furniture production. This is one of the main advantages of this tool. As a rule, to produce parts of the same type, it is necessary to install copying machines, which are designed to perform only one operation, which is not always profitable, especially in small enterprises.

Getting started and caring for the tool

To understand how this device works, you should familiarize yourself with its main parts and their purpose.

Composition and purpose of main components

A manual milling device consists of a metal body and a motor, which is located in the same body. A shaft protrudes from the housing, onto which various collets are placed, serving as adapters. They allow you to install cutters of various sizes. The cutter is inserted directly into the collet, which is secured with a special bolt or button, which is provided on some models.

The main elements of a manual milling device and their purpose.

The design of the milling device includes a metal platform, which has a rigid connection to the body. It is attached to the body by means of two rods. On the outside, the plate has a smooth coating that ensures smooth movement during operation.

The manual milling device has some characteristics that can be adjusted:

• Due to the handle and scale for adjusting the milling depth. Adjustment is carried out in 1/10 mm increments.
• By adjusting the rotation speed of the cutter.

At the initial stages, when mastering the tool, it is better to try to work at low or medium speeds. Although you should always remember that the higher the speed, the better the work. Especially if this concerns critical, visible areas that cannot be masked.

In addition to these levers, there is also a button to turn the product on and off, as well as a lock button. These elements are considered basic, ensuring high-quality and safe performance of work. There is also a parallel stop, which contributes to ease of use. It can be rigidly fixed or with the ability to adjust the shift of the working area away from the center.

Caring for a hand-held milling device

Usually, a factory product falls into the hands of a person tested and lubricated, so no additional measures should be taken. Only during its operation you need to monitor its cleanliness and serviceability. At the same time, it should be regularly cleaned of dust and the lubricant should be changed, if so written in the passport. Lubrication is especially necessary for moving parts. As an option, you can use aerosol lubricants, but you can also get by with regular ones, such as Litol. The use of thick lubricants is not recommended, as chips and dust stick to them. If aerosol lubricants are used, then this factor can be eliminated.

The sole, the smooth part of the body, also requires lubrication. Regular lubrication will ensure smooth movement.

Despite this, the purchased item should definitely be checked for quality of assembly and presence of lubricant.

Unfortunately, not all manufacturers, especially domestic ones, care about build quality. There are cases when, after the very first hours of operation, screws or screws are unscrewed from a product because they were not tightened properly.

Rotation speed adjustment

The operation of any tool is associated with certain conditions related, first of all, to the nature of the material being processed. It can be plywood, composite material or regular wood. Depending on this, the rotation speed on the electrical appliance is set. As a rule, the technical data sheet always indicates the operating parameters of the device, depending on the technical characteristics and characteristics of the surfaces being processed, as well as the cutters used.

Indicators of processing speeds when using various cutters.

Fixing the cutter

The first thing the work begins with is installing and securing the cutter. At the same time, you should adhere to the basic rule - all work is performed with the cord plug removed from the socket.

The cutter is installed according to certain marks, and if they are missing, then to a depth of no less than * the length of the cutter itself. How to install a cutter on a specific model can be found in the instructions, which must be included in the technical documents for the device. The fact is that each model may have its own design features and it is not possible to talk about this in the article.

Installing the cutter on the device before starting work.

There are both simple and more “advanced” models, as they say. Some models have a shaft rotation lock button, which makes installing the cutter easier. Some, especially expensive models, are equipped with ratchets. So it won’t be possible to specifically describe the process of installing the cutter, and it doesn’t make sense, since everyone who is familiar with the operation of such devices will figure it out in a moment.

Milling depth adjustment

Each model has its own maximum milling depth. At the same time, it is not always the maximum depth that is required, but a certain depth that is set before work. Even if maximum depth is required, in order not to overload the device, the milling process is divided into several stages, changing the milling depth in steps. For adjustment, special stops are provided - limiters. Structurally, they are made in the form of a disk located under the bar, on which stops of various lengths are fixed. The number of such legs can be from three to seven, and this does not mean that the more there are, the better. It is better if it is possible to adjust each of the legs, even if their number is minimal. To secure this stop in the optimal position, you should use a lock in the form of a flag.

The process for adjusting the milling depth is as follows:

Thus, the workpiece is milled to a given depth.

On high-quality, expensive models there is a wheel for precise adjustment of the milling depth.

Using this wheel, you can more accurately set the depth without disturbing the previous setting.

This wheel (green in the photo above) allows you to adjust the depth within small limits.

Milling cutters for hand milling tools

A milling cutter is a cutting tool that can have an intricately shaped cutting edge. As a rule, all cutters are designed for rotational movements and therefore have a cylindrical shape. The shank of the cutter, which is clamped in the collet, has the same shape. Some cutters are equipped with a thrust roller, so that the distance between the cutting surface and the material being processed remains constant.

Milling cutters are made only from high-quality metals and their alloys. If you need to process soft wood, then HSS cutters will do, and if you need to process hard wood, then it is better to use cutters made of harder HM alloys.

Each cutter has its own technical characteristics, which provide it with high-quality and long-lasting work. The main indicator is the maximum speed of its rotation, which should never be overestimated, otherwise its breakdown is inevitable. If the cutter is dull, you should not try to sharpen it yourself. Sharpening of cutters is carried out using special, expensive equipment. After all, you need not only to sharpen the cutter, but also to maintain its shape, which is no less important. Therefore, if for some reason the cutter becomes dull, it will be cheaper to buy a new one.

The most popular cutters

There are cutters that are used in work more often than others. For example:

Groove molds are designed to create recesses in any location on the workpiece.

There are cutters that are simple, monolithic, made from a single piece of metal, and there are typesetters. Set cutters consist of a shank, which serves as the basis for a set of cutting elements. By selecting cutting planes and installing them on the shank, using washers of various thicknesses, you can form an arbitrary relief on the surface of the workpiece.

A set cutter is a set of cutting surfaces and washers that allows you to assemble a cutter of the desired shape.

In fact, there are a lot of cutters and this is only a small fraction of what is produced. All cutters differ in the diameter of the shank, the diameter of the cutting surfaces, their height, the location of the knives, etc. As for manual milling equipment, it is enough to have a set of five of the most common cutters. If necessary, you can purchase them at any time.

Rules for working with hand milling tools

Working with power tools requires special rules, especially when there are rapidly rotating elements. In addition, as a result of work, chips are formed that fly in all directions. Despite the fact that most models are equipped with a protective shield, this does not fully protect against the flow of chips. Therefore, it is better to work with such a tool wearing safety glasses.

The photo shows a model where a vacuum cleaner is connected to remove chips.

General requirements

If you follow the basic requirements for safe work with an electric hand router, the end result will please you with the quality of work and a safe outcome. These are the conditions:

The requirements are not very complex and quite feasible, but to ignore them means putting yourself in danger. And one more thing, no less important, is the ability to hold a milling tool in your hands and feel how it works. If serious vibrations are felt, then you need to stop and analyze the reasons. It is possible that the cutter is dull or there is a knot. Sometimes it is necessary to correctly set the rotation speed of the cutter. Here you can experiment: either add speed or reduce it.

Edge processing: using templates

It is better to process the edges of a wooden board using a surface planer. If this is not possible, then you can use a hand router, although this will take some time. These works are carried out both without a template and with a template. If there are no skills or very few of them, then it is better to use a template. For processing edges, straight edge cutters are used, both with one bearing at the end of the cutting part and with a bearing at the beginning (see photo).

Edge cutters.

You can use an already processed board or other flat object as a template. Moreover, the length of the template must be greater than the length of the workpiece, both at the beginning and at the end of the workpiece being processed. This will avoid unevenness at the beginning of the edge and at the end. The most important thing here is that the template or object acting as a template has a smooth and even surface. In addition, its thickness should not be greater than the gap located between the bearing and the cutting part.

The width of the part is less than the length of the cutting part

Moreover, the longer the cutting part, the more difficult it is to work with the tool, since more effort is required. In this regard, it is better to start working with cutters that have an average length of the cutting part. The operating principle for edge processing is as follows:

• The template is attached so that it is at the desired height and has a flat horizontal surface.
• The template is firmly mounted to a table or other surface.
• The cutter with the roller is installed so that the roller moves along the template, and the cutter (cutting part) moves along the workpiece. To do this, perform all the necessary manipulations with the template, workpiece and tool.
• The cutter is installed in the working position and clamped.
• After this, the tool turns on and moves along the template. In this case, you should decide on the speed of movement, which is determined by the depth of processing.
• The milling unit can be either pushed or pulled, depending on what is convenient for you.

After the first pass, you should stop and evaluate the quality of the work. If necessary, another pass can be made by adjusting the position of the tool. If the quality is satisfactory, then the clamps are removed, freeing the workpiece.

Using this approach, it is possible to remove a quarter along the edge or in some of its parts. This is done by setting the cutting edge so that it extends to the required depth into the part.

Quarter shot on a furniture façade.

If you replace the cutter with a shaped one and move the guide, as well as use a stop, you can actually apply a longitudinal pattern to the part (pictured below).

Applying a longitudinal figured pattern to the workpiece.

If you use a similar milling technique (with a template), you can easily master the technique of working with wood in general. After some time, you can abandon the templates, since installing them takes a lot of useful time.

How to make a straight edge without a template: you can’t do this without experience.

The width of the part is greater than the length of the cutting part

Quite often, the thickness of the workpiece is greater than the length of the cutting part of the cutter. In this case proceed as follows:

• After the first pass, the template is removed and another pass is made. In this case, the template will be the already processed part. To do this, the bearing is guided along the machined surface. If the cutting part was again missing, then another pass will have to be made.
• For final processing, you should take a cutter with a bearing at the end, and the workpiece should be turned upside down, after which it is secured with clamps. As a result, the bearing will move along the machined surface. This approach makes it possible to process thick parts.

The bearing is guided along the machined surface, and the cutting edge processes the rest of the workpiece.

In order to master the work of a hand milling tool, you will need a lot of rough blanks, which you don’t mind throwing away later. No one succeeded the first time. To achieve anything, you need to train hard.

Achieving Various Shaped Edges

If a figured edge is required, which is most likely necessary, then first pay attention to the condition of this edge. If it is uneven, then you will have to level it and only then begin to form a curved edge by selecting the appropriate cutter.

Rounded edge.

It is necessary to prepare the surface so that the cutter does not copy the curvature along which the roller will move. In this case, a sequence of actions is needed, otherwise a positive result will not work.

If you need to process a frankly curved surface, then you can’t do without a template. It can be cut from plywood, about 10 mm thick, by first applying a pattern and cutting out the template with a jigsaw. The edge of the template must be brought to perfection using a hand router.