How to make it out of paper. Paper models in half an hour - reality or fantasy? DIY paper tools

Any beginning modeler should know the basics of working with paper. The quality of the paper models created depends on this basic knowledge.

All the following techniques should be taught to children from a young age, so that at school they can do it without thinking. Like any good habit, the basics of modeling need to be brought to automaticity in the child’s mind. I’m not just talking about those children who want to do paper modeling, this applies to any child because any creativity and development of children begins with working with paper! This type of activity not only promotes creative development, but also develops perseverance, accuracy, and hand motor skills in the child. Let's move from theory to practice.

Workplace. Make sure you have a good, comfortable table and chair, the lighting should fall from behind your left shoulder, use a table lamp if necessary. To avoid staining the table with glue, cover it with paper, film, or place a sheet of glass with sanded edges to avoid cutting yourself.

Remember that your elbows should not rest on the glass - this is harmful to your joints!

Paper- this is what we work with. You should pay special attention to the quality of the paper, I like to work with good paper! Good and bad paper are like two cars, one a Mercedes and the other a Zaporozhets, choose for yourself which one you “drive” :) For initial creativity and simple paper toys, it is best to use ordinary paper, for printing on a printer, A4 format, “Snow Maiden” type ", it has good qualities and is the most snow-white in relation to other brands. The density of such paper should be 80 g/m.

More complex models and toys are made from thick paper or cardboard. Today, cardboard is produced of very poor quality and it is very difficult to find good sheets. A set of cardboard can be colored or white, choose which cardboard you will use to glue the models yourself.

If you like thick paper, then I recommend purchasing thick paper for drawing. Please note that the sheets in the set are not secured along the edges with sticky glue; it is best when the sheets are simply folded without gluing. The thickness of drafting paper can vary greatly between sets, so when choosing, compare sheets from different sets and buy the whitest and thickest paper.

If you need super white and thick paper, then there is a wide selection of photo paper at your disposal. You can print color scans on this paper. Sheets of photo paper make the most beautiful and colorful models. For work, choose photo paper with a density of 200 g/m2 or more; sometimes photo paper is almost like thick cardboard. Depending on the future paper model, you can buy single-sided photo paper or for double-sided printing - this is very convenient!

Stationery (silicate) glue is suitable for gluing regular paper, but I still recommend using PVA glue, you will understand the difference when you try to glue with both. It may be possible to glue photographic paper with PVA glue, but it is better to use Moment glue. Remember, there are different adhesives on sale and cheap does not mean high quality, that’s why I’m giving you photos of what I use myself.

You can spread the glue with a brush or squeeze it out of the tube directly onto the paper part and spread it with a strip of thick paper (use scraps). If you glue with Moment, then ventilate the room, as the glue is very toxic!

Working with paper. Paper modeling does not require a lot of knowledge and tools.

Basic tools: pencil, knife, eraser, ruler, compass, scissors.

The pencil must be wooden, of medium hardness (letter designation on the pencil: TM, T, F), even with different markings, pencils may not match the quality, choose carefully. A pencil sharpening knife should not be too long!

Remember that it is easier to cut yourself with a dull knife than with a sharp one!

The eraser must be large and soft so that it does not smudge the pencil, but erases it!

The ruler is preferably metal, from 30 to 50 cm. Plastic rulers, even new ones, almost all do not have a straight line. The compass must be rigid, without loose parts, the lead or pencil must not move, otherwise such a compass is worthless!

Scissors can be of different sizes, the main thing is that they do not fit tightly and lie comfortably in your hand.

The most difficult thing in paper modeling is to draw the development of the model, and without drawing knowledge it will be difficult to do this. If you don’t like to develop models yourself, then you can take ready-made scans.

I will tell you about a common technique for high-quality paper folding so that the fold line is smooth and sharp. For example, I took two rectangles, I bent one with my hands without using any tools, the line turned out to be simply disgusting, it is very difficult to bend paper along a straight drawn line in this way. I will bend the second rectangle along the line made with a needle from a compass under a metal ruler. Many people advise doing such actions with a used ballpoint pen, but it’s difficult to find an empty refill and you still won’t make a line with a pen of sufficient quality, which is why I recommend using a compass. Attention, you can cut through paper with a needle, it is better if the needle is blunt; when you draw a line, bend the compass in the direction of movement, almost laying it on its side.

Look at the result, the fold on the left is terrible, and the fold on the right is very neat. Try to do this experiment yourself, you will see for yourself in my words.

Working with a pencil. Pay no less attention to this than to everything else, because the final work depends on the quality of sharpening the pencil. Whether your parts come together when gluing or not depends on the pencil!

Sharpen the pencil sharply so that it draws a thin, clear line. The point is not even in the quality and beauty of sharpening the “wood”, but in the sharpness of the stylus. Learn to sharpen pencils with a knife or blade, but forget about the sharpener forever!

Be careful with cutting tools!

Now let's talk about cutting. You need sharp scissors to cut paper! Do not sharpen scissors by cutting sandpaper, the scissors will be sharpened, but at the same time you will scratch their inner side edges, they will cut sloppily and tear the paper. Better ask someone who knows how to sharpen scissors for help!

The most difficult element to cut out is the most ordinary circle. Children without skills cut out a polyhedron instead of a circle; you need to show and teach them how to do it correctly! First, you need to cut the part around the line at a distance of 2-5 mm, so that nothing else interferes, then cut along the finishing line.

The cut circle should not have any corners, just a clean, straight line!

Often you have to cut out complex parts with small triangles for gluing (see photo). Before cutting out such a part, you must first go through all the folds with a compass; they are drawn with a dashed line. Next, use scissors to cut off the excess paper along the tops of the triangles.

In any direction, make cuts along one side of the triangle to the fold line.

Then, on the back side of the triangle, make a second cut until the piece of paper falls off on its own; no need to pull it out of the corner with your hands! You will get a neat piece, and the corners will be easy to bend thanks to a pre-drawn line with a compass needle.

To cut strips long or short and save time, use a metal ruler and a sharp knife or blade. You need to cut on a sheet of plastic or glass so as not to spoil the table! Press the ruler firmly, otherwise it may move and ruin the paper.

Often, to glue a cylinder, for example a car wheel, you need to glue the paper around the circumference so that the paper does not resist; it can be bent with scissors or on the edge of the table. To do this, take the folded scissors in your right hand, in your fist, place a strip of paper on top and press it with the thumb of your right hand, now with your left hand pull the strip of paper so that the strip rubs against the edge of the scissors. You can also do this by stretching a strip along the edge of the table.

This is where I finish my acquaintance with the basics of paper modeling, if I didn’t tell you something in this article, I will tell you in others or you will learn it yourself in the process of work. I wish you creative success and will be happy to look at your paper models!

Good day to all. In today's article I would like to show you how to make a repeating version of a paper pistol with a magazine loading system. This pistol does not need to be reloaded after each shot, just shoot until the magazine runs out of shells, for example, the magazine I made is designed for 5 shells, but you can do more.

This pistol is great for “office wars” or just perfect for shooting targets at home.

And so, in order to make a multi-shot pistol, we need:
-6 sheets A4
-2 money rubber bands
-2 small elastic bands for weaving
-thin cardboard
We will also need the following tools:
-glue gun
-stationery knife
-scissors
-pencil
-glue stick

And so the first thing you need to do is roll 2 thin tubes, for this we take a sheet of paper and begin to carefully roll it from the edge, then as soon as we reach the end we glue the tube so that it does not unwind

Now we take another sheet of paper, put a thin tube on it as shown in the photo and begin to twist the sheet around the thin tube, in total you need to make 4 such thick tubes, but one of them needs to be made a little thicker than the others:

Take 2 thick tubes and mark them into 7 cm pieces, then cut them off:

We take the tube that we made thicker and clamp it a little and glue the bottom, as shown in the photo. It is also important that a thin tube passes through this hole with little resistance. The edges of the tube can be dipped with super glue to strengthen the material.

We take five pieces of thick tubes and glue them to our previous workpiece as shown in the photo:

Then we take cardboard and draw the following details on it (if you wish, you can make it to your own dimensions, but then you will have to adjust everything else to your dimensions, I already have everything adjusted):

Let's cut out what we got:

Using a stationery knife, we cut out a neat hole 41 mm long on the bottom of our pistol, at a distance of approximately 3-4 cm from the handle of the pistol. The hole should be approximately like the doors in the tubes, generally as shown in the photo:

Now we take our cardboard parts, bend them along the lines and glue the places of contact, you should get the same blanks as in the photo, this is our future “store”

We insert and glue to the hole on the gun the blank that has two identical holes on both sides, you need to glue it so that the thin tube moves freely in the thick tube without touching anything, if you do something wrong, nothing will work out (for me didn't work the first time)

Glue the remaining thick tube as shown in the photo:

We take a thin tube and cut off its ends by about 4 cm on each side, then bend one edge by 1.5 cm, after which we put two money elastic bands on the bend and glue it as tightly as possible as shown in the photo, for strength you can also wrap it with a sketch or electrical tape:

We shorten our blank in relation to the pistol so that when it is in a thick tube with a magazine, it completely covers the hole for the magazine, in general, as shown in the photo below. Then we insert it into our “barrel”

Now we take the remaining thin tube and, using the handles of the scissors, “smooth” it so that it becomes flat:

We paste it over the handle of our pistol as shown in the photo, trim off the excess:

Glue the remaining section of the tube as follows, and put elastic bands on it

We make such projectiles out of paper, each projectile is approximately 3.5 cm long and 5 cm wide, after which we insert them one by one into the “magazine”

Then we take small rubber bands and the remaining cardboard blank. We insert the cardboard blank into the magazine and secure it with rubber bands as shown in the photo:

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In order for the paper model to have smooth and regular fold lines, immediately before the fold you need to use some kind of blunt object (this could be a mechanical pencil, a non-writing ballpoint pen, etc.) and draw it along the fold line, making a small groove.

Typically, this procedure is performed before cutting out parts of a paper model: a blunt instrument is carried out along the fold lines, making a small groove. Thus, when you try to bend along the fold line, the part will bend exactly where you passed the tool.

To get very sharp edges when making models from thick paper (cardboard), you can follow the fold lines with a paper knife, but not all the way, cutting only the top layer of paper. The next time you bend it, its edges will be sharp.

Cutting

Cut out the details of the paper model either with scissors or a paper knife. Scissors work well for large pieces, and there are two types of scissors you can use - large ones with straight blades, and nail scissors with small curved blades. Straight scissors are useful for cutting out large pieces, while nail scissors are useful for cutting out smaller, curved pieces. A paper cutter is great for very small parts and also for cutting out internal holes.

Before you begin, make sure that the area of ​​the table where you are going to work is well lit. This is important so that you can clearly see the cut lines. When using a paper cutter, it is a good idea to have a cut-resistant mat to protect the table as well as the knife itself.

It is important to always use a sharp blade and not press too hard on the knife. Cutting paper will then be very easy.

Don't try to twist your hand along all the curves of the line to cut out complex shapes. It is necessary to twist the sheet. This way you will do it faster and more correctly.

Cut one part at a time, do it exactly when you need that particular part. There is no point in cutting out all the details, because they may simply get lost. If you did this (cut out all the parts at once), do not forget to put a serial number on the back of each of them.

Fold

There are 2 types of bend - external and internal.

To make an outer fold, you must fold along the fold line so that it is above the folded sides. The result should be a so-called convexity; it’s not for nothing that in English the outer fold sounds like a Mountain fold, mountain in English means mountain.

To make an inside fold, you must fold along the fold line so that it is below the folded sides. It should look like a notch, it’s not for nothing that in English the internal fold sounds like Valley fold, valley translated from English - notch, gutter.

The most commonly used type of fold in paper models is the outer fold.

As a rule, each type of bend on model parts has its own symbol. Dotted lines (_ _ _ _ _) are usually used for outer folds, dash-dotted lines (_ . _ . _ . _) for inner folds. Solid lines (______) are usually used for cutting lines.

Gluing

Gluing is one of the most important stages of paper modeling. The appearance of the model and the correctness of its assembly depend on correct gluing. Pay great attention to this stage.

Most paper model parts have special tabs for applying glue, so to glue two parts together you will have to apply glue to the tab and press the parts together.

Important tip: don't use too much glue! It is enough to apply just one drop of glue to the part and spread it over the surface with a brush or finger. If you have used a lot of glue, it will end up on the model itself; at this point you need to quickly remove it by wiping it with a cloth or your finger. It is important to use glue that does not leave marks on the model itself.

In some situations, it is necessary to apply glue not to special tabs, but to the parts being glued. This applies to internal gluing, when one part is placed inside another. In this case, glue is applied to the side edges (see figure).

Fillet

Many models use cylindrical parts, these can be the masts of paper ships, the columns of historical buildings and much more.

To round a part, to make it more pliable for making a cylinder, you just need to draw it along the back side of the part, for example, with a mechanical pencil or a metal ruler. The part will immediately become more rounded, and it will be much easier for you to give it the desired shape.

For very small paper pieces, you can use a toothpick.

Docking

Some models use a separate special tab, with which two parts are glued together. A special tab is glued under both parts, giving the surface an almost perfect look.

Typically, this method is used to create airplanes and spaceships to give the fuselages an ideal look.

Painting joints

When two pieces are glued together, their edges remain white - the cross section of the paper. For paper models made in dark colors, this point becomes critical.

As a workaround, after cutting out the pieces before assembling, use colored markers or pencils to tint the edges the color you want.

What techniques do you use when making paper models?

Paper modeling can be classified as an activity that never ceases to interest a person. Many orphanages for creativity always organize design clubs, because paper models not only provide an opportunity to get a new interesting figurine or toy, but with their help you can improve your knowledge of physics and mathematics.

Tools for work

To learn how to fold basic paper models, you will need simple tools such as scissors, a utility knife, PVA glue and a brush for applying it. Give preference to PVA construction glue - of all varieties, it has the thickest consistency; it does not spoil the paper, making it wet and sticky, like regular glue.

Different models are folded from different types of paper - from tissue paper to thick cardboard. Beginners are advised to start with 200 grams per m2 watercolor paper for large elements and drawing paper with a density of 140-160 grams per m2 when developing small parts.

Craftsmen create individual parts, such as masts, railings, small finishing elements, from polymer clay, plaster, plasticine and self-hardening plastic. If you also complement your work with molded parts, stock up on various stacks and molds - like those used in ceramic floristry.

How to make a paper model

The workflow for creating a paper model takes place in several simple steps. Before starting the process, the master decides what kind of figurine he wants to design. In fact, almost any product can be made from paper, but paper modeling often involves the following options:

• geometric figures, polyhedra with convex and concave corners;

• scaled copies of famous buildings;

• luxury car models;

• models of military equipment: tanks, armored vehicles, heavy guns;

• vehicles: airplanes, ships and submarines, trains.

Figures of humans, animals, and plants are constructed much less frequently than others. After determining the product category, the main part of the work process begins.

Creating a Layout

Three-dimensional paper models are made from several large and small parts - the diagrams of the elements must first be drawn on paper sheets of the desired color. A person cannot cope here without understanding certain knowledge of geometry and the ability to represent a three-dimensional image.

To make it easier for beginners to learn, many specialized magazines began to publish drawings of ready-made developments for paper models, by gluing them together to create a figurine.

You also need to cut out the layout according to the rules. For example, a solid line along the contour indicates the location of the cut, and a dotted line indicates the fold. But in each diagram the designations are individual, so before cutting you need to read the explanations for the figure.

Assembly

After the drawings of the paper model are ready, the model is glued together and finishing work is carried out, if necessary.

To make the surface of the product look realistic, craftsmen use different coatings: glossy varnishes, matting sprays, craquelure liquids, stains, etc.

Paper car models

A beginner in the business of paper modeling will enjoy this master class, which contains information on how to construct the famous model of a VAZ 21011 sedan car in just half an hour.

Stock up on thick drawing paper or a coated sheet if the figurine is being created as a gift for a friend.

• On an A4 sheet of paper using a color printer, print out the finished layout of the paper model with your own hands. If you want to enlarge the diagram, make sure that the proportions of length and width are maintained - changing the parameters may interfere with the correct joining of the parts.

• Have a picture of a real car of that brand in front of you to use the picture as a guide during assembly. Bend the development in the required places.

• Shape the blank into the shape of a car to mark the gluing areas for yourself. Only after this can you sequentially lubricate the white valves with glue and glue them to the necessary parts from the inside, fastening the parts of the machine to each other.

Please note that the tread strips need to be glued together to form rings that will be attached to the wheels in order to obtain the most voluminous paper models.

Paper tank models

Designing military equipment from paper is somewhat more difficult than creating civilian vehicles because the guns consist of many small parts that form the body.

To see this, try to create a difficult but very interesting model of the German Panther tank.

• On a thick A4 sheet, print drawings of the tank components using a color printer. It is better to cut out small parts from thin cardboard so as not to bend the narrow curled elements.

• You need to cut out the parts with sharp scissors to make the work easier.

• It is better to glue in blocks - separately connect the parts of the hull, propulsion system and turret, and then fasten the large elements together.

To glue the parts of the tank in the correct order, follow this video tutorial during assembly.

Sometimes the joints are connected with small errors, which is why white paper stripes appear on the model. You can get rid of them using felt-tip pens or pencils of a similar color to the armor.

Paper airplane models

If you already have some skills in building paper figures, you will probably enjoy constructing a paper and cardboard model of the Tu-104 passenger aircraft.

• Print out the airplane drawings on thick paper.

• Glue the elements of the internal frame of the product onto thin cardboard - they are marked with red numbers.

• The parts marked with a cross - frames or frame - are transferred to the cardboard using a compass. In this case, you can calculate the radius of the circle by placing the needle of a compass in the middle of the cross and a pencil on the circle. Patterns of paper frames need to be glued to these cardboard blanks.

• After developing the frame, start creating the fuselage, or body of the aircraft. Please note that, unlike previous products, fuselage sections #1-8 do not have white securing flaps. They are connected to each other with special ribbons, represented on the patterns by the corresponding numbers in blue.

• The frames are glued into the joints between the fuselage sections.

• While the glue in the airplane body is drying, glue the tail parts together.

• The engines of the device are assembled like a fuselage.

• Next, the wings are formed using cardboard and paper.

• Connect together the parts of the hull, wings, bow and cockpit.

• Assembly of the chassis takes place in several stages - initially the wheels and their components are formed, after which the chassis is glued to the wings in a specially designated place.

• You can also use the pattern to cut out a wooden chassis - it will be stronger and last longer than paper and cardboard.

To avoid bends and creases on the body and tail, stuff the parts with cotton wool during assembly. Decorate the plane as desired using decoupage sprays and paints.

You can make a simpler paper airplane model with your own hands, following this video.

Take it for yourself and tell your friends!

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