Independent connection of the washing machine. Rules for installing a washing machine

Modern washing machines make the life of any housewife much easier. But sometimes problems arise with technology. For example, the washing machine is jumping. It is important not to put off the problem “for later” and find out the reasons immediately. Better yet, immediately after purchasing the equipment, learn all the rules on how to install a washing machine so that it does not jump, and do everything correctly. You will learn about all this from this article.

What cars jump?

If you identify the cause of excessive vibration in your washing machine in time and take action, you can avoid costly repairs. During the spin mode, any automatic machine operates at very high speeds, and its natural vibration is a normal phenomenon.

Take a closer look at the model at the purchase stage - modern models are equipped with mechanisms that allow you to reduce vibrations, but not completely:

1. There are models of machines that shake more than others when washing. Usually these are narrow and light models. Their support area and low weight make it impossible to stand in one place.
2. Also, such machines have a small drum, which does not allow for correct alignment during washing and the machine begins to jump.
3. It should be noted that, according to statistics, machines with a metal drum are subject to vibrations more often than other models.

Important! Today you can find types of machines in which the drum is separated from the body, which significantly reduces the load on the body and the machine jumps much less.

If the machine is new

If the washing machine jumps during the spin cycle, but was recently connected, then its jumping may give signals that can be easily eliminated.

Important! You must understand that in technology everything is interconnected. Even if you have diagnosed a problem that is not the worst, it is better to fix it as quickly as possible, otherwise the condition of your washing machine may worsen. And if serious difficulties arise, you can always call a specialist for help.

First reason

Check for the presence of drum fixation bolts during transportation, and if they are present, remove them. Often, when installing a new car, these bolts are forgotten to be removed, which can easily lead to its breakdown.

There are four bolts directly on the back cover of the machine and can be removed by simply unscrewing.

Important! You shouldn't throw them away. If you are going to transport the car, then they will come in handy.

The second reason

Another reason why the washing machine may vibrate strongly during spinning and operation may be incorrect installation of the machine. It is better to install using a level: if the machine wobbles even when not in use, or the floor is not hard enough, then it will jump not only during the spin cycle, but also during the wash. To exclude such developments when operating equipment, check your actions with our instructions for.

Don’t forget about the slippery floor—you shouldn’t install the machine directly on it.

Third reason

The simplest option for why the machine is jumping is that the laundry is not loaded correctly into the tank. To prevent such situations, remember that the laundry in the drum should be distributed as evenly as possible. If the alignment is lost and the machine jumps, the best option would be to turn off the machine and redistribute the laundry in the tank.

Important! Some modern models give an error message when the laundry is distributed incorrectly, but you shouldn’t rely on them - it’s better to double-check that everything is in order before starting the wash.

Do not forget to take into account the washing mode, and remember about the maximum and minimum load, because if you regularly do not comply with the manufacturer’s requirements, then the machine’s surges are inevitable.

Fourth reason

It also happens that foreign objects end up in the car: coins, buttons, pins, etc. They do not allow the machine to work in its usual mode, and the machine begins to jump. To prevent small items from getting caught, be sure to check all pockets before washing, and if you are not sure that a button on an item will withstand washing, use.

Fifth reason

It also happens that the reason lies in marriage. In this case, if the warranty allows, it is better not to hesitate and contact the manufacturer for a replacement, rather than being puzzled by the question “the washing machine jumps during the spin cycle - what to do?”

If the machine is not new

In older models of washing machines, the reasons for its jumps may be hidden in both previous versions and in another.

Depreciation

To prevent the machine from breaking through the floor with the vibration of the drum, it is equipped with special shock absorbers and springs. Over time, these elements may lose their properties, and the drum may warp, and the parts of the device will begin to rub against each other.

Bearings

The second problem is the axial bearing that has become unusable. It is impossible to make a mistake in diagnosing this breakdown: if it is present, you will hear a grinding noise, and when the washing machine stops, the tank will rotate freely to the side.

Important! This is a serious breakdown in which the machine cannot be used without repair. To understand whether you have enough experience and knowledge to perform such repairs yourself, check out ours.

Counterweights

Another important detail that allows you to dampen the vibrations of the washing machine is the weighting agent. They are usually made of cast iron or concrete. These counterweights are located on the drum, at opposite ends, and are attached to it with bolts.

If the washing machine jumps, you should check to see if the weights are loose.

Important! Concrete counterweights may deteriorate over time - this is normal; simply replace them and the machine will work like new again.

Engine

The most unpleasant problem, why a washing machine jumps during the spin cycle, is a breakdown of its motor.

And the simplest version of this breakdown, which can be fixed quickly and without additional investment, is that the electric motor is poorly secured. If everything is in order with the holders, you may have to replace or repair the spare part.

Eliminating the causes

If the cause is determined, you can try to eliminate it yourself.

Solution 1

If the alignment of the laundry is incorrect, it is enough to take the following steps:

• turn off the washing machine;
• wait for the door to unlock;
• open the tank;
• take out the laundry, straighten it and put it back;
• if there is a lot of it, some must be removed;
• Then the machine is connected in spin mode.

The washing machine is one of the most important household appliances in any home. To start using the washing machine, you must first properly connect it to the water supply and sewerage systems. For this purpose, a locksmith can be called in who will quickly and efficiently carry out this work, but in order to save money, you can carry out the installation yourself. Therefore, in our article we will try to clearly explain how to install a washing machine with your own hands.

Read the instructions

First of all, you should definitely read the instructions that come with each washing machine and find out all the possible installation details. You also need to strictly follow the step-by-step instructions, starting from unpacking the material and ending with setting up the first wash. When unpacking the machine for the first time, do not forget to save a few shipping bolts (usually 3 or 4 pieces), which may be needed to transport the equipment to a new location or, God forbid, to a workshop.

Selecting a location

After this, you need to choose the most convenient place in the room. The machine should not interfere or take up too much space in our not very luxurious apartments. The most popular installation option is used in the bathroom. But small bathrooms often do not allow this, so the second most popular option is to install a washing machine in the kitchen. Another installation option could be a corridor. It can fit perfectly into this part of the apartment without taking up much usable space, but then you should take into account that all communications must be nearby.

Initial installation stage

If you do not yet know how to connect the washing machine correctly, then we remind you that first of all you need to free the equipment from all fasteners that were installed for transportation and, most importantly, free all rotating parts of the washing machine from the latches. If this is not done, the drum may be damaged when turned on. And this is a sure case of partial or complete breakdown of household appliances.

Note!

After unscrewing the transport bolts, do not forget to put special plastic plugs in the holes.

Connection to sewerage

The next step should be connecting the washing machine to the sewer. When installing the device, some differences from the standards may occur. For example, if there is no washer and the water moves only in one direction, then the connection is made strictly according to the instructions with the specified level (its minimum and maximum value should be indicated) for the placement of the pipe. If the minimum level is specified as 50 cm, then the pipe should not be placed below this value. This is demonstrated more clearly by the diagram below.

Scheme No. 1

Your next action should be to connect the outlet pipe of the machine to the sewer pipe. To do this, you must first purchase a siphon, and then install it. The siphon will provide the most reliable fastening and protect against any leaks. Some users attach the drain hose to the edge of the bathtub or sink. But it is clear that this option is not very reliable due to the possibility of accidentally touching the hose, falling and pouring water onto the floor. After connecting, check that the hose is straight and has no kinks. Installation of drain hoses to the machine is done using clamps and adapters.

Connection to water supply

The next important step will be connecting the washing machine to the water supply. This is done using 3/4 inch diameter hoses. You may need to lengthen them. Then this needs to be done using rubberized cuffs. Then you need to cut a thread in a certain part of the water supply system, as accessible as possible, and install a valve there, with the help of which water is supplied when washing begins.

Filtration system

To increase the service life of the washing machine, special filters in the form of meshes are used. They prevent foreign particles from entering the drum and are an important element in protecting the machine from premature wear.

Water supply method

Drain tanks or faucets can be used to supply water. If the water intake will come from the mixer, then you need to use a special tee to which a hose is connected for connection. It is possible to collect water from other, more convenient places. In this case, the connection is made by using pipes.

Note!

One of the options for using mixers is a temporary connection.

In this case, the intake hose is unscrewed after each wash and the mixer hose is put in its place.

Vibration protection

One of the important stages of connection is leveling the machine. If this is not done, then during the spin cycle there will be strong vibration, which, in addition to significant noise, causes harm to the device itself. To install it correctly, you should not use various supports and supports. It will be enough to level the level by unscrewing the legs. After this, the device is checked for stability. To do this, you need to press on the machine and if it wobbles, then tighten the legs again.

Safety

After you have connected the washing machine drain and water supply, you need to ensure its power supply with an increased degree of safety. Typically, these household units have a power of 2-2.5 kW and, accordingly, the cross-section of the wires must be selected according to these parameters. In general, modern washing machines already have the highest class of protection against electric shock, so you need to try hard to ensure that the user receives an electric shock. Even if the machine is installed in the bathroom, where there is always high humidity, the level of protection of modern equipment will allow you to work with minimal risk of receiving an electric shock.

Basic requirements for proper connection

The washing machine should be connected to the network according to the following scheme.

1. The electrical panel is grounded using a bus whose cross-section must be at least 3 mm.
2. When connecting, you must use three-wire sockets that have a phase, neutral and ground wire.
3. There must be mandatory insulation of the ground wire.

You can clearly see the correct connection in the diagram below.

Scheme No. 2

Main signs of correct connection

So that you do not have to constantly look under the sink and check for leaks, you must make sure that the device is connected correctly. The main signs of a correct connection:

1. No leaks.
2. Quite fast filling of the tank.
3. Drum rotation.
4. Heating of water should occur within 6-7 minutes after drawing water.
5. No extraneous sounds.
6. High-quality draining and spinning work.

If all these requirements are met, then the washing machine is connected correctly and you can safely operate it for a long time. You can watch video instructions for connecting washing machines below.

Do-it-yourself washing machine installation video:

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The washing machine must be connected to three networks at once: water supply, sewerage and electricity. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a place for installation so that all three systems are located nearby or there is an opportunity to bring them there. The optimal places to install a washing machine are the bathtub, toilet and kitchen - they have all the necessary communications. Most often they require a little modification, but connecting the washing machine is not very difficult. The connection process itself is simple, you don’t need to do anything super complicated, if you have “direct” ones, you can do everything yourself.

Accommodation options

• toilet;
• bathroom or combined bathroom;
• kitchen;
• corridor.

The most problematic option is the corridor. Usually there are no required communications in the corridor - no sewerage, no water. You will have to “pull” them to the installation site, which is not at all easy. But sometimes this is the only option. In the photo below there are several interesting solutions for how you can place the typewriter in the hallway.

The photo shows an option for installing a washing machine in a narrow corridor Making something similar to a portal is also a solution

The toilet has all communications, but in typical high-rise buildings the size of this room is such that it is sometimes difficult to turn around there - there is no space at all. In this case, washing machines are placed above the toilet. To do this, make a shelf so that when sitting on the toilet you do not touch it with your head. It is clear that it must be very durable and reliable, and the machine must have very good shock absorbers. In addition, they must be set perfectly, otherwise they may “jump away” during the spin cycle. In general, with this method of installing a washing machine, it doesn’t hurt to make several strips that will prevent it from falling off the shelf.

The shelf is solid and reliable, but slippery - you need a rubber mat under the legs for shock absorption

In the bathroom and combined toilet there is usually not very much space either, but still more than in the toilet. There is a choice here. If you have space, you can place the washing machine next to the sink. You can install a table top on top, which will be a logical conclusion and will also solve the problem of water getting on the body. To make everything look organic, you need to choose a machine of such a height that it fits into the size, and the sink itself is better square - then they will be wall to wall. If there is not enough space, you can slide at least part of the body under the sink.

There is a more compact way - to place the washing machine under the sink. Only the sink needs a special shape so that the siphon is installed at the back.

The next option for installing a washing machine in the bathroom is on the side of the bath - between its side and the wall. Today, case sizes can be narrow, so this option is a reality.

Just keep in mind that installing such equipment in bathrooms or a combined bathroom is not the best idea. Due to increased humidity, the case begins to rust quickly (tested from my own experience). However, there is usually not a lot of space, although in principle, you can put the car under the washbasin or hang shelves above it. In general, it's up to you.

Another popular place to install a washing machine is in the kitchen. It is built into . Sometimes they close doors, sometimes they don’t. This is at the discretion of the owners. Several interesting photos are in the gallery.

Doors with a cutout for a “porthole”

Removing the shipping bolts

Before connecting the washing machine, you need to unpack it and remove the mounting bolts and replace them with plugs.

This procedure is required immediately after unpacking. If you leave the bolts and turn on the machine, it will break. And this is not a warranty case. The number of bolts varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, but their installation diagram is in the instruction manual, and they are visible on the back wall. Just take a screwdriver and unscrew it, and close the opened hole with a plug.

Connection to water supply

First, let’s talk about what kind of water the washing machine is connected to. In general - to the cold. The water is then heated by heating elements as needed. Some owners, in order to save money, connect to hot water. This way, less energy is consumed when washing. But the savings are questionable - more hot water is wasted. If a meter is installed on the hot water supply, then it is cheaper to pay for electricity than for hot water. It is also worth considering that connecting a washing machine to hot water is not very good for laundry: the temperature causes the whites to curl and then not be washed well.

We were talking about ordinary washing machines, but there are models that connect to both hot and cold water. They have not one water inlet on the back wall, but two. In our country they are very rare - there is too little demand, and the prices for such equipment are much higher.

Now about the connection itself. The washing machine comes with a rubber hose, which is used to connect the washing machine to the water. Its length is 70-80 cm, which is not always enough. If necessary, you can buy a longer one in stores that sell plumbing fixtures (3 meters is not the limit, it seems).

This hose is screwed onto the corresponding outlet on the rear wall. There should be a sealing rubber gasket there, so there is no need to wind it up. Tighten the hose union nut (plastic) by hand; if you use wrenches, tighten it only half a turn. Not more.

The second end of the hose must be connected to the water supply system. If you have a free outlet somewhere that ends with a tap, great; if not, you need to make a tie-in.

If there is a free drainage of water, connecting the washing machine to the water supply is very simple - install a filter and a hose to it. All

The easiest way with plastic, polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes is to buy a tee (with one transition to metal), solder/install it. If the water supply is connected by a metal pipe, you will have to install the tee by welding.

In any case, a tap is installed after the tee. A simpler and cheaper one is a ball one. When installing it, you can wrap flax tow on the threads and lubricate it with paste.

After the tee, install a ball valve and connect the hose to it

There are also tees with taps for connecting washing machines and other household appliances. The same ball valve is installed in one of the outlets, but everything is done in one housing. It looks more compact, but if the tap malfunctions, you will have to change the entire tee, but it costs a decent amount.

Sometimes it is recommended to install a filter before the tap. Of course, it won’t be superfluous, but if there is a filter at the entrance to the apartment or house, then there is no urgent need for it.

Where to route the drain hose

If there is a sink or sink siphon nearby, there is no problem. You don't even have to redo the sewer system. You will need to buy a special siphon with an outlet for connecting washing machines and other household appliances and install it in place of the old one.

Another option is to connect the washing machine to the sewer directly. To do this you can:

All these methods require alteration of the pipeline, but the connection will be major. There is one point: the diameter of the drain hose is much smaller than the size of the sewer pipes. To ensure tightness and ensure the absence of odors, special rubber cuffs are inserted into the outlets. The hose is simply stuck into them. The elastic edge of the cuff squeezes it, the connection is ready.

There are also temporary connection options. The drain hose is simply lowered into the bathtub, toilet or sink. This method, of course, is very simple, but not the best - the hose may fall, you may forget to put it back in place after turning on the machine, etc. Then the water drains directly onto the floor, and cleaning up the flood is not very pleasant, and even the neighbors below (if any) will definitely not be happy.

Lowering the hose into the toilet is simple, but unreliable

With any method of connecting the drain hose from the machine to the sewer, you must ensure that it does not bend or become looped. The corrugated drain hose is prone to blockages, so you need to ensure the minimum bend radius.

All this data is usually specified in the instructions, but usually the minimum bending radius is 50 cm, the maximum is 85 cm. In order to control the position of the hose, there are special plastic clamps that fit on top of the corrugation and hold it in the desired position.

Electrical connection

Since the power of the washing machine when the heating elements are turned on is decent, it is advisable to connect a separate power supply line to it from the panel. The circuit is simple - the phase from the input is supplied to the circuit breaker, from it goes to the RCD, then through a wire to the location where the socket is installed.

All manufacturers emphasize that the outlet must be grounded. Only in this case the factory warranty remains valid.

Now about the denominations. The circuit breaker is selected according to the current required by the device. This figure can be found in your passport, or you can calculate it. It is necessary to divide the power of the washing machine by 220 V, we get the current consumption. For example, your unit has a power of 3.5 kW. We get 3500 W / 220 V = 15.9 A. We take the nearest larger rated circuit breaker. They come in 6 A, 10 A, 16 A, 20 A, 25 A. For our case, a 16 A machine is suitable.

Let's move on to choosing an RCD. In terms of current, it is taken one step higher than the rating of the machine, that is, for the example given it is 32 A. But the RCD has one more characteristic - leakage current. For devices that connect to a dedicated line, the recommended value is 10 mA. So, for a washing machine with a power of 3.5 kW, a 16 A automatic machine, a 32 A RCD, with a leakage current of 10 mA are required.

It would also be nice to calculate the cross-section of the wire. Today, cables with copper conductors are mainly used for wiring. They are more flexible and less heavy. The calculation is made based on power or current consumption, but since the power spread of washing machines is limited, we can immediately say that for devices up to 4.1 kW, a core cross-section of 1.5 square meters is sufficient. mm (copper conductors), up to 5.5 kW - cross-section 2.5 sq. mm.

And the last thing about electrics: about sockets. When choosing an outlet, keep track of more than just the presence of a grounding contact. You also need to look at what voltage the outlet is designed for. Normal products have markings on the back. The maximum operating voltage is indicated there. Sometimes the rated current is set. You know it too (or you can calculate it as described above). If there are no inscriptions, it is better not to risk it. Most likely this is cheap Chinese consumer goods and how it will work is a mystery.

The last stage is setting the level

Connecting the washing machine to the water supply and sewerage system is not all. We need to provide her with normal working conditions. To prevent the washing machine from jumping during the spin cycle, it must be positioned strictly vertically. The position of the body is adjusted using adjustable legs. Take a building level, place it on the lid, change the height of the legs, ensuring that the bubble in the level is strictly in the center.

Check by placing the level parallel to the front part, then move it to the rear wall. Then the procedure is repeated, but the level is applied to the side walls of the case - on one side, then on the other. Once the bubble is strictly in the center in all positions, we can assume that the washing machine is level.

If there is no level, you can try to level the machine by placing a glass with a rim filled with water on it. The water level is up to the rim. Change the position until the water is exactly along the rim. This method is less accurate, but better than nothing.

There is one more point. Most often, washing machines are placed on a tiled floor, which is slippery and hard. That’s why even a perfectly aligned machine sometimes “jumps”—it’s impossible to dampen the vibration when spinning on a hard floor. To cope with the situation, you can place a rubber mat under the machine. It serves as an excellent shock absorber.

Good afternoon, dear readers!

After purchasing a washing machine, the question arises about connecting it. The store will probably offer you the services of its own master, and on every corner you can find advertisements for specialists.

Is this really such a complicated matter that it is necessary to pay a considerable amount? In fact, for a person who knows what an adjustable wrench and FUM tape are, there is nothing supernatural about this. Just keep in mind that installing it yourself often voids the warranty, so it’s worth weighing the pros and cons.

If you decide to do the work yourself, then let's figure out how to install a washing machine according to all the rules.

Before you go to the store, think about where you will place it. Measure the depth, width and height of the selected location, adding at least 1 cm on all sides (correction for uneven walls). Agree, the situation when the equipment is physically unable to stand on the prepared area cannot be called pleasant.

The most common options for the location of automatic machines are:

• Bathroom

It is convenient because most of the communications are nearby. In addition, the device fits harmoniously into the surrounding space. To save space, the machine can be installed under the sink. Then you will have to choose a special form of plumbing with a drain in the back.

However, experts do not recommend placing the machine in the bathroom if there is an alternative, since in conditions of high humidity the parts wear out much faster and rust appears.

• Kitchen

Also, all connection nodes are located nearby, there is no need to re-equip anything additional. If you think through the design of the headset in advance, you can install a built-in washing machine or hide it behind one of the cabinet doors.

There are disadvantages here: increased humidity and temperature effects from the stove and oven. Therefore, it is recommended to install the device away from heating devices.

• Toilet

Some originals manage to install the unit even in a small toilet. In this case, the machine is located above the toilet.

This option requires special preparation and thoughtfulness: you need to be confident in the strength of the walls, install a reliable podium, and provide a vibration damper.

• Corridor

The location in the hallway is more common in desperate situations, when there is simply nowhere else to put the equipment.

The location has few positive features: communications have to be delayed, equipment takes up a lot of space, noise can be heard in all rooms.

• Lumber room

If you have a storage closet in your home, you can try converting it into a laundry room. This way, the washing machine will not interfere with anyone, and will be preserved better.

Some houses have special rooms that are designed for washing. If you are the lucky owner of such an apartment, well, congratulations, you are lucky.

• Basement

Such placement is possible in a private house, provided that the basement is heated and has electricity, water and sewerage installed.

If all requirements are met, this arrangement is very advantageous: the unit is not exposed to moisture, and its operation is inaudible for residents.

When the choice in favor of a certain room is made, you should think about the surface on which the machine will be located. The floor in this place should be hard and level.

Small differences in height can be corrected using the screw-in legs of the machine or a rubber mat, but they cannot compensate for strong unevenness. Therefore, if the installation is carried out on a wooden or uneven floor, then it makes sense to think about filling the area under the device with a concrete screed or installing a pallet.

Getting to know the instructions

Before you start working with the automatic machine, read the instructions! It contains a lot of useful information: what kind of outlet should there be, how to connect the drain and water supply, how to adjust the position of the unit, what malfunctions occur most often and whether you can fix them yourself, and much more.

Reading technical documentation is a separate step, since rarely does anyone turn to the manufacturer's prompts before a problem arises. This is usually only done if something doesn't go according to plan. You shouldn't do that.

The instructions provide detailed recommendations regarding the model of your washing machine, compliance with which will prevent many troubles. Do not ignore the manufacturer’s advice: in the event of a breakdown, failure to follow them may result in your case being considered non-warranty.

Preparation of communications

The washing machine is connected to three systems: sewerage, water supply and electricity.

Sewerage

There are several varieties possible here:

• Siphon under the sink - you need to install a splitter to the drain running under the sink. It will provide an outlet for the washing machine hose.
• Directly to the sewer - in this case, you will have to make a special outlet in the pipes or attach a tee when approaching the sink or bathtub.
• In the toilet or sink - the simplest and most unreliable option. Using a hook, the hose is hung on the plumbing fixtures, and the water flows out freely after washing.

Water supply

Most often, the machine is connected to cold water, and the device itself, using heating elements, heats it to the required temperature. However, some models provide connection to both cold and hot water.

This reduces electricity consumption, but increases the cost of hot water supply. In addition, such water often contains impurities and rust, which can lead to damage. And the units are more expensive. Therefore, the most common option remains connecting to cold water.

It is quite simple to install an additional outlet for water on polypropylene, metal-plastic and plastic pipes. A tee with one transition to metal should be installed. If there is a free outlet on the water supply pipes, great, the task is greatly simplified! All that remains is to install a shut-off valve.

You can install the simplest ball one. At the same time, do not forget to apply sealant and flax tow. There is an alternative option: a tee with a built-in tap. They are designed specifically for washing and dishwashing appliances. It is more convenient to install such a part, but if one of the parts fails, you will have to change the entire element, and they cost a lot.

Electricity supply

For correct and safe operation, the machine is connected to a separate grounded outlet. Please be aware that if there is no grounding, the manufacturer's warranty on the unit will no longer apply.

It must be located in close proximity to the device, since connecting extension cords or straining the wire is not allowed.

If there is no outlet that meets the stated requirements, contact an electrician. It will extend a separate power supply line from the panel with the required current parameters.

Do not attempt to install the outlet yourself unless you are properly qualified!

Connection and installation

Now all that remains is to free the unit from the packaging, remove the foam protection and unscrew the shipping bolts that are located on the back of the case.

They are designed to protect the internal parts of the device from damage during transport. Place plastic plugs (included in the kit) into the resulting holes.

Do not throw away shipping fasteners. They will come in handy when you move or need to take the device to service.

The corrugated drain hose into the sewer (usually included in the kit) must be installed in the siphon outlet and secured with a clamp. If the connection is made directly to the sewer pipe, then a rubber cuff is used as an adapter.

With any connection method, it is necessary to ensure that there are no kinks or strong kinks in the hose. But a bend at 60 cm from the floor is a common requirement. This is necessary to form a natural water seal - so that water and odors from the sewer do not penetrate into the device. A plastic clamp is used for fixation.

This rule is true for devices in which the drain hose is located at the bottom of the housing; if it comes out from the top, then the bend has already been made in the inside of the device. There are also now units with a check valve, for which you do not have to create additional “elbows”. This point should be clarified in the equipment documentation.

To connect to the water supply, we use a hose that is sold with the device. The side with the curved end should be connected to the machine: install the mesh filter (included in the kit) with the convex side towards the outlet and manually screw it on. The other end is also screwed onto the water supply tap by hand. There is no need to tighten too much, since there is a rubber seal at the joints that ensures tightness.

To make it even clearer, take a look at how this process goes in the video.

Alignment

To prevent the washing machine from jumping, it is necessary to adjust its position - it must stand level. If this is not done, the internal components will quickly fail and the washing machine will have to be repaired.

To carry out the procedure, a building level is used, which is laid along each side. If there is a tilt somewhere, then you need to tighten the legs until the horizon line is perfect.

When this condition is met, try to slightly rock the machine: if it wobbles, then the adjustment should be continued.

Do not place pieces of wood, cardboard or linoleum under the legs! The device will still “move off” them.

Also, the floor should not be slippery. If the device is installed on tiles, you should lay a rubber mat or use special rubber stands for the legs.

Examination

All adjustment steps have been completed, which means it’s time for the first launch. You need to run the machine without laundry at the highest possible temperature. This will allow you not only to check the correct installation, but also to clean the inside of the device from any dirt and oil from the factory.

During the debut cycle, check all the joints: is there any dripping at the joints of the pipes, are there any leaks in the sewer hose, is the housing electrocuted, how loud is the unit, is it jumping around the room?

If any of the above deficiencies are detected, it is better to interrupt the work and immediately begin to eliminate it.

If you don’t know how to get rid of shortcomings, then stop being a hero and call a specialist. The quality of washing, service life and, of course, safety depend on the correct connection.

Conclusion

As you can see, there is nothing particularly complicated about connecting the machine. If all the necessary communications are provided and installed, then anyone can handle this task.

However, if there are any doubts, then do not try to save money - call an installation specialist. How much it will cost to work and buy a new device or pay for repairs to the neighbors below, I think, there is no need to compare.

How did you connect your washing machine: yourself or call a technician? Did you encounter any problems during the process?

Almost everyone who uses a washing machine knows about its habit of jumping up and moving out of its place during the spin cycle. This article will discuss the causes of the phenomenon and methods of preventing them.

Let's look at the reasons first. They can be divided into two groups:

• factors causing vibration of the washing machine;
• factors that allow a vibrating machine to move across the floor.

Why does the washing machine jump?

The first reason for strong machine vibrations may be undismantled transport bolts. They firmly fix the washing machine tank inside the case so as not to damage it during transportation. Before starting work, bolts and other fixing elements must be removed. It is strictly prohibited to operate the machine with them.

The next reason for vibration in the washing machine is uneven distribution of things in the tank. If you start the car with an empty tank, it will not vibrate. The same thing will happen if you distribute things perfectly evenly - in an even layer around the entire circumference of the tank. In reality, such a distribution is impossible to achieve; even those evenly distributed at the beginning are mixed during the washing process.

Faulty tank suspension and support bearings. Loosening of the counterweight.

The purpose of the system of springs, dampers and counterweight is to make the natural frequency of the tank much lower than the frequency of its rotation. This reduces the amplitude of vibrations and the amount of vibration transmitted to the machine body.

To better understand the content of the previous paragraph, remember: at the beginning of the spin cycle, the body of the loaded machine sways more strongly, and then, with an increase in the rotation speed of the tank, the swaying turns into a slight trembling or, with the correct distribution of the laundry, practically disappears.

Swing the tank - after that it should make no more than one oscillation and stop. Otherwise, the shock absorbers are faulty and must be replaced.

Open the casing of the machine, inspect the elastic elements - metal ones should not have deformations, rubber ones should not have tears or cracks. Defective parts must be replaced! Check the counterweight fastening - if it is loose, tighten the nuts.

Faulty bearings. There should be no squeaks or knocks when the machine is operating. Rotate the tank by hand and rock it from side to side. If you detect squeaking or beating, replace the faulty parts.

Correct installation of the washing machine

First requirement for installation - horizontal floor. When deviating from horizontal, the vibrating machine will slide in the direction of the slope. If the floor is not ideal, you need to build some kind of podium that creates a horizontal surface for the car. At the same time, it itself should not slide on the floor surface.

Second requirement– horizontality of the machine itself. Or verticality. It depends on what is chosen as the criterion: the top plane must be strictly horizontal, any side edge must be vertical.

Why is this necessary? Even with the most careful distribution of things, they will move during the washing process and create a beating when the tank rotates quickly. In an unevenly parked machine, the beats will deviate from the calculated ones and, as a result of the uneven load on the supports, can cause displacement.

Is the impact of deviation significant? It’s better not to analyze it, but simply level the car. This is not such a difficult operation.

How to level a car? What will be needed for adjustment?

Before starting work, prepare a level approximately 1 meter long. No longer needed. If there is no such long one, we will take what is available. But we must keep in mind that the shorter the level, the less accuracy.

You will also need two open-end wrenches. The size must match the adjusting nuts on the machine legs.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a washing machine

Checking the platform for horizontality, on which the device will stand. In fact, it is not the horizontality of the entire platform that is important, but the plane passing through the spots on which the legs of the machine will rest.

Using a level, we check the horizontality of the site along both diagonals. If horizontality is maintained here, we check along two adjacent sides. If everything is in order here, we place the car with its feet on the proven platforms. If the floor is not horizontal in any directions, we place stands on low places, achieving horizontality in all directions.

Stands can be made from any flat and hard material. It is recommended to stick a thin sheet of rubber on the side in contact with the floor. Its purpose will be described below.

Now we place the washing machine on the platform or on stands. By adjusting the height of the legs, we achieve horizontality of the upper surface. We check the correct installation of the verticality of the side ribs.

If everything is fine, tighten the locking nuts on the adjusting screws of the legs and check again whether the vertical-horizontal alignment has been disturbed during locking.

Now try to rock the car left and right and diagonally. If it doesn’t sway—not almost, but doesn’t sway at all—then the car is aligned correctly.

But there is one more nuance. As already noted, it is almost impossible to completely eliminate vibrations, so there is always the possibility of the washing machine leaving its rightful place.

Remember when they used to put a sheet of rubber on the footrests? This is so that during small vibrations they do not slip on the floor and do not allow the car to move.

Find a rectangular sheet of rubber 1–1.5 cm thick, and about 5 cm larger than the size of the machine. The hardness should be such that the legs will penetrate it by about half the thickness. Place it on a horizontal surface under the car, and the likelihood of it leaving will be reduced to zero.

Tips for operating the machine aimed at reducing vibration.

Do not overload the machine. The suspension system is designed to work with a certain load. Excess will lead to excessive vibrations, and in the long term to premature failure of components.

Before starting, distribute things evenly around the circumference of the drum. There are machines that can do this on their own, but still help them - artificial intelligence is not that smart yet.

If your machine is a top-loader, you can keep something heavy on it, such as a laundry basket. This will increase resistance to vibration.

Place the machine at a distance of at least 5 cm from the walls so that in an emergency it does not damage them or itself.

Conclusion

At the end, we will briefly list what was discussed in the article:

• Do not forget Remove transport bolts;
• The machine must be parked horizontal surfaces;
• The car must be parked strictly vertically;
• Place a rubber mat under the legs;
• Evenly distribute things around the circumference of the drum;
• Don't overload car;
• Provide a gap between the wall and the machine not less than 5 cm;
• Attention! Never use a faulty machine. If an elastic element breaks or a bearing breaks while running, the damage can reach such proportions that the extra washed shirt will turn out to be gold.