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  • Protection of viburnum from pests. How to fight aphids on viburnum: basic methods

    Protection of viburnum from pests.  How to fight aphids on viburnum: basic methods

    Viburnum berries contain a large amount of vitamin C, as well as pectins and tannins. A decoction of berries helps cope with sore throat, tonsillitis, bronchitis and pneumonia. Viburnum bark also has useful substances: from its decoction you can prepare a hemostatic and antispasmodic agent, as well as a mouth rinse for periodontal disease. However, insect pests can undermine the health of the tree, or even destroy it completely. Knowing what viburnum pests exist and measures to combat them, you can take timely measures and save the tree.

    The most common pests

    Viburnum has many admirers not only among people, but also among insects. However, the preferences of the latter are destructive for her. The following are the pests that can cause the greatest harm to viburnum, as well as how to get rid of them and save the plant.

    Black aphid on viburnum, how to fight

    These small bugs are easy to notice: they are brown, almost black in color (less often crimson-brown) and accumulate in large quantities on the stems of the plant. They usually lay eggs in the bark of the viburnum tree, as well as on the branches. In the spring, the larvae hatch, begin to suck out the juices and eat the young leaves of the plant. Over time, they dry and curl, and the shoots change shape.

    In general, aphids attack three times a year, starting in May. During this month it is necessary to start treating the plant with insecticides. Then the aphid larvae grow and turn into flying insects that are able to fly to neighboring plants. In August, aphids begin laying eggs, which can successfully overwinter, despite the frost.

    Black aphid on viburnum

    Measures to combat viburnum aphids include the destruction of root shoots, where the largest number of eggs are laid. How can you treat viburnum against aphids? The plant should be sprayed with chemicals:

    • Arrivo,
    • Fury,
    • Fufan or Fufanon,
    • Karbafos.

    Or biological:

    • Fitoverm,
    • Akarin or Agravertin CE,
    • Aversectin,
    • Intavir.

    It is also a good idea to treat the plant with a solution of laundry or tar soap.

    Important! It is better to do the first treatment before the buds open, this will help reduce the number of overwintered eggs.

    What to do if the use of chemicals in a given location is not possible? Folk remedies will help. For spraying, you can use decoctions prepared from other plants. Potato tops (1.2 kg of green ones per 10 liters of water), pepper infusion (1 kg of capsicum per 10 liters), celandine (3-4 kg of fresh celandine per 10 liters) are suitable for this.

    It will also be useful to purchase or attract beneficial insects that destroy aphids on viburnum. This is a ladybug, a hoverfly or a goldmine larva. The insects will eat the pests, but the viburnum will not be touched.

    Hoverfly

    Green lobed moth

    The caterpillar has a yellow-green color with a dark red stripe along the body, the same dots and spots. Prefers to eat exclusively flowers and gnaw out flower ovaries. Particularly active between May and July. Over the summer, two generations of butterflies may appear. The moth is most often found on the ornamental shrub Buldenezh. In addition to viburnum, it can also harm other garden shrubs, such as lilac and buckthorn.

    On a note! Pest control must be carried out twice: in the spring, before the viburnum begins to bloom and after it has finished. 10% Karbofos is suitable for processing.

    Viburnum leaf beetle

    The viburnum leaf beetle is a large brown beetle. Prefers to hide a clutch of eggs in young shoots of viburnum. The larvae have a black head and a dirty gray body. Some people confuse the leaf beetle caterpillar with a worm. The larvae emerge from the eggs at the end of spring and begin to eat young leaves. You can notice that the leaf beetle caterpillars on the viburnum have eaten all the leaves. They are able to completely eat a leaf, leaving only a skeleton mesh instead. You can notice them on the back of the sheet: the caterpillars hold firmly and are not so easy to shake off.

    Note: This pest has a truly brutal appetite; in a few days the larvae are capable of destroying a large number of viburnum branches.

    At the beginning of summer, the larvae hide underground and turn into beetles. They have a yellow-brown color. The beetles not only eat viburnum leaves, but gnaw holes in them. In this case, you can notice that the viburnum leaves have holes. Now leaf beetles live on the upper part of the leaf. After the leaves they move to inflorescences. their actions can lead to the complete death of the plant and the crop.

    Viburnum leaf beetle

    Favorable weather for the leaf beetle is rain, damp and cold. Under such conditions, the number of beetles may increase, which will cause considerable harm to the viburnum.

    To combat this beetle, you need to remove dried and damaged shoots in the fall, as well as leaves with larvae. Treat the plant in the spring, when the leaves have not yet blossomed, and in August. The drug Intavir is suitable for this: you need to spray the plant twice with an interval of 7-10 days. During the growing season, it is recommended to spray viburnum with an infusion of hot pepper (a kilogram of fresh or 0.5 kg of dried crushed pods per bucket of water), an infusion of tomato tops (4 kg of fresh herbs per bucket of water) or a decoction of chamomile (3 kg fresh or 1 kg dried per bucket of water ). It will also be useful to remove in the spring those shoots in which egg laying is visible. The trimmings should be removed away and burned immediately.

    Viburnum leaf roller

    The larvae of this pest are gray or green caterpillars, which have a yellow tint on the sides. The entire body of the caterpillars is covered with light hairs. They become active in the spring. They actively eat the buds and young leaves of the plant. In addition, they wrap the leaves with cobwebs and knock them into a ball.

    Viburnum leaf roller

    Leaf roller caterpillars are capable of real wrecking: in a short period of time they can eat huge quantities of leaves and inflorescences, which negatively affects crop yields. To prevent the caterpillars from eating all the viburnum leaves, you need to start fighting them in time.

    Note! To destroy the viburnum leaf roller, you need to collect and burn all the caterpillar nests. Then spray the plants with 60% Nitrophen paste (250 g per bucket of water). This must be done before the leaves bloom. Then you need to treat the viburnum with 10% Karbofos.

    Viburnum gall midge

    To combat this pest, you need to loosen the soil in early spring and late autumn. Before viburnum flowers appear, spray the plant with 10% Karbofos (100 g per bucket of water).

    Chekhlik moth

    It is a small butterfly (wingspan up to 1 cm). The color is gray, with shiny scales on the body. Moth larvae are orange-brown in color and no larger than 0.5 cm in size. For the winter, the moth makes a shelter for itself and hibernates in it, and in the spring it flies out and feeds on viburnum leaves. It pupates in June and becomes a butterfly in July.

    Chekhlik moth

    Spring treatment of viburnum during the period of growth of young shoots will help cope with moths. Suitable drugs include Fufanon, Actellik, Iskra, Commander and Intavir.

    Other pests

    Less commonly, you can encounter spider mites, honeysuckle sawflies, moths and moths. To combat them, you need to treat the plant with Karbofos in May, and in August with Fufanon or Iskra.

    Folk methods of struggle

    Many gardeners prefer not to use chemicals to control pests. And there are many folk methods: in addition to a decoction of the garden plants listed earlier, spraying with a soap solution is recommended. This solution is prepared using laundry soap or tar soap. You just need to dissolve the soap in water, about 100 grams per 1 liter of water, preferably warm.

    Note: It is much more convenient and faster to dissolve soap shavings.

    This method is absolutely safe for humans. For greater effectiveness, it is recommended to add to the solution:

    • soda,
    • ash,
    • tobacco,
    • tops

    Soda-soap solution

    The effect of using this product will be noticeable by the end of the day. To prepare, you need to mix soap with water (1/4 or 1/2 of a bar of soap per bucket is enough), then add soda at the rate of 1 tablespoon per liter of water. You will need about 10 tablespoons of soda per bucket. Mix thoroughly and spray the plant thoroughly.

    Preparation of soda-soap solution for spraying

    Ash solution

    Wood ash is highly irritating to the skin of insects, making it excellent for pest control. The soap solution will help fix the ash solution on the leaves.

    First you need to sift 300 grams of wood ash, add it to a bucket filled with 10 liters of water and put it on fire. Cook for half an hour. Then cool slightly and add 40 grams of soap.

    Advice! There is no need to make this product in advance; it is better to prepare it immediately before use.

    Tobacco solution

    To prepare, you need to mix 200 grams of dry tobacco leaves with three pods of hot pepper and pour a bucket of water over everything. Insist for a day. Then add 100 grams of laundry soap, 3 tablespoons of wood ash (can be replaced with cinnamon) and mix. This solution can quickly remove pests.

    Tops solution

    To prepare the solution, you can use potato or tomato tops. It is necessary to chop 3 kg of fresh herbs, add 10 liters of water and leave for at least 6 hours. Then put on the stove, bring to a boil and cook for half an hour. Then cool, add 50 grams of soap and use.

    Tomato tops

    Using a soap solution to spray viburnum is safe for humans and is accessible to everyone. However, it is not always possible to cope with harmful insects only with the help of folk remedies. Store-bought products are much more effective, but they also cannot destroy all pests the first time. For maximum effectiveness, it is worth using folk remedies in combination with store-bought ones.

    Important: Due to the need for chemical treatment, you should not plant viburnum next to the beds; eating such a crop can be dangerous.

    Necessary prevention

    To prevent viburnum diseases and to detect early signs of pests, you need to regularly inspect the plant. If the leaves begin to turn black, dry out or rot, or holes appear on them, you need to look for the cause and fight it.

    For prevention and treatment, it would not be amiss to treat the bushes throughout the season with onion, garlic or tobacco infusion, as well as a soap solution (any of those described earlier). The use of insecticidal plants is ideal for the prevention of viburnum diseases, as well as for pest control. It could be horse sorrel, dandelion, wormwood.

    It will not be possible to completely protect the viburnum; pests may attack again, but timely detection and destruction of harmful insects will prevent them from laying eggs.

    Viburnum Pests

    1. Viburnum leaf beetle ( Galerucella viburni Payk).

    In August, a light brown beetle up to 6 mm long lays eggs (up to 700 pieces!) in depressions made on young shoots. The shoots dry out, but the clutches successfully overwinter in them. In early May, the larvae emerge from the eggs and immediately begin to intensively feed on young leaves and shoots. At the beginning of June they go into the soil to pupate. In July, beetles appear, eating huge holes in the leaves. In larger numbers, leaf beetles do not disdain berries and shoots.

    Measures to combat the viburnum leaf beetle

    Autumn and spring pruning of dried and damaged shoots, removal of leaves with leaf beetle larvae.

    Spring treatment before the leaves bloom and in August during the release of leaf beetles with one of the preparations according to the instructions: " Fufanon", "Karbofos", "Aktellik", "Aktara"Twice processing" Intavir"with an interval of 7-10 days.

    2. Viburnum aphid ( Aphis viburni Scop.)

    The black viburnum leafroll aphid is a small insect up to 7 mm long. Larvae emerge from overwintering eggs when the leaves bloom. They actively reproduce, feeding on plant sap. Leaves curl, become deformed and dry out.

    Measures to combat viburnum aphids

    The first treatment - before the buds open - will help to significantly reduce the number of overwintered eggs, so it is better not to lay it. Alternate medications: Arrivo, Fury, Fufan (aka Fufanon) and Karbafos. You can also use biological preparations: Fitoverm, Akarin (Agravertin KE, Aversectin), Iskra, Intavir. They quickly decompose and do not cause addiction to aphids.

    3. Other pests of viburnum

    Viburnum is severely affected by cap moths and comma scale insects. To combat them, in May the plant is treated with “Karbofos” (90 g/10 l of water), and in August it is sprayed with “ Fufanon" or " Spark".

    Viburnum diseases

    In cold rainy weather, young shoots are affected by various fungal diseases: gray mold, phyllostictosis spot, fruit rot, powdery mildew.

    In humid weather, spots and a coating of fungal sporulation appear on the leaves. Plant growth slows down, tissue transpiration worsens, young shoots dry out, and severely damaged leaves fall off prematurely. The plant is poorly prepared for winter, has a “pathetic” appearance, and yield decreases. The infection persists in plant debris.

    How to deal with viburnum diseases

    To prevent diseases such as spotting and powdery mildew, viburnum should be treated with tobacco, garlic or onion infusion throughout the season. Do not forget to remove plant debris, thin out bushes, and carry out sanitary pruning.

    In case of severe rot damage, before the leaves bloom and after flowering, the bushes are treated with Bordeaux mixture or the preparations "Hom", "Abiga-Peak".

    Viburnum is a shrub or small tree belonging to the Adoxaceae family. Viburnum is valued for its ease of cultivation and care, decorative appearance from late spring until the first snow, and beneficial properties of both bark and berries. Even after the leaves have fallen, viburnum continues to delight the eye with its scarlet berries, which look especially impressive against the backdrop of snow.

    It should be noted that not all types of viburnum have edible fruits. The well-known species with the French name Buldenezh is exclusively decorative and is known for its gorgeous white inflorescences in the form of snow globes.

    Flowering viburnum continues for 30 - 40 days, starting in May. Large umbrella inflorescences of white color can be tinged with pink and reach 10 cm.

    Under natural conditions, viburnum grows in areas with moist soil - near rivers, streams, lakes. In total, there are more than 160 species of these plants, of which several dozen are found in Russia.

    Planting viburnum

    Viburnum is a moisture-loving plant, so it grows best in moist areas in partial shade on slightly acidic soils with pH = 5.5–6. However, the place should be well lit, but preferably not in direct sunlight. In completely shady places, viburnum will also grow, but the bloom will be noticeably weaker.

    Viburnum is planted in autumn or early spring. Autumn plantings show better plant survival. The planting hole is 50 cm wide and 40 cm deep. In the pit, a soil mixture is prepared from the top layer of soil, to which 6 kg of humus is added, well mixed with a glass of wood ash and peat. The ratio of peat to the rest of the soil is 1:3. If the soil is not rich in humus, then add 100 g to the hole and mix thoroughly.

    The seedling is placed in a hole so that the root collar is buried from 3 to 5 cm. After planting, a hole is formed around the bush and watered with 20 liters of water. Then mulch with peat or straw.

    When planting several seedlings, they are located at least two meters from each other.

    Viburnum care

    Caring for viburnum consists of:

    • feeding
    • pruning
    • pest prevention

    In addition, moisture-loving viburnum needs watering during dry periods.

    Feeding

    In early spring, viburnum is fed with a complex feed - 50 grams per bush. To do this, you need to remove the mulch, add fertilizer, loosen the soil and water the plant. After feeding, it is necessary to re-mulch the bush. In the fall, root fertilizing is done with ash - 1 cup per bush or superphosphate in the amount of 60 grams.

    Trimming

    Viburnums are pruned in early spring. Its task is to thin out the bush so that there is access to fresh air inside it, to remove shoots that grow inward, as well as weak, broken and dry ones.

    By pruning, the plant itself is formed, growing it in the form of a tree, leaving one trunk, or in the form of a bush - several large shoots.

    After 5–6 years, rejuvenating pruning is carried out, removing old shoots. It is better to carry out such pruning not at once, but over two years - cut half of the shoots in one year, the rest in a year. This way the viburnum will tolerate pruning without unnecessary stress.

    Prevention of pests and diseases

    Viburnum is often damaged by pests such as viburnum leaf beetle and aphids. And if measures are not taken in time, the plant will lose all its decorative properties.

    Already in early spring it is important to treat viburnum from pests. It should be noted that the viburnum leaf beetle lays eggs in dry twigs of the plant. Accordingly, to prevent the appearance of caterpillars of this dangerous pest in the spring, in the fall, after the leaves have fallen, you need to carefully examine the bush and remove dried parts of the branches at the edges of the shoots. Cut parts of the shoots must be destroyed.

    The plant is treated against powdery mildew - you can treat it with this drug in the spring for the purpose of prevention.

    Viburnum propagation

    Viburnum is propagated:

    • dividing the bush
    • cuttings
    • layering
    • seeds

    Reproduction by dividing the bush

    With this method, the bush is carefully divided into several parts. Each part should have 2 - 3 shoots with developed renewal buds.

    Propagation by cuttings

    In June, green cuttings are cut, 8–10 cm long with three nodes. An even cut is made from the bottom of the cutting at an angle and the lower leaves are removed, leaving a couple at the top, cutting them in half. The cuttings are soaked for 10 hours in a root formation stimulator and planted in a greenhouse. In the fall, they are planted in open ground in a permanent place, covered with straw or spruce branches for the winter.

    Typically, cuttings involve keeping the germinated cuttings indoors and planting them in open ground only in the spring. But viburnum shows good survival even after such autumn planting of cuttings.

    Reproduction by layering

    In spring, a low-lying shoot is bent and placed in a prepared groove. Cover with soil and secure with wire. The upper part of the shoot remains in the air and is tied vertically. By autumn, roots will form on such a shoot. The shoot is cut off from the mother plant, divided into parts and planted in a permanent place.

    Propagation by seeds

    The most labor-intensive method. Before sowing, viburnum seeds are stratified. At the end of February, the seeds are sown in containers filled with peat mixture. In the spring, when warm weather without frost sets in, the seedlings are transplanted into open ground, protected from the sun for two months.

    Viburnum is known to everyone as a shrub that gives us berries that have medicinal properties. But viburnum is sometimes overcome by pests and diseases. They cause her a lot of trouble: they eat and damage leaves and flowers, adversely affecting the amount of harvest.

    Viburnum pests and ways to combat them

    Leaf beetles can completely destroy planted viburnum bushes, and the fight against these pests is very difficult. Many people have most likely experienced this, so we will tell you about an effective method of combating leaf beetles.

    In early spring, dark gray larvae with a black head hatch. They settle on the underside of the leaf, and it is very difficult to shake them off, because they dig into it tightly. These larvae are very voracious. In a matter of days, they can gnaw most of the leaves down to the veins. Then they burrow into the soil and after a while crawl out as yellow-brown, half-centimeter-long beetles. Now they settle on the upper side of the foliage and continue to diligently absorb them. By autumn, the viburnum, affected by leaf beetles, stands almost completely bare. Such a plant is not ready for winter and may simply freeze.


    Females gnaw through the bark two millimeters deep and can even catch wood. Up to 25 light yellow eggs are laid in the hole. Afterwards, the female seals the nest with bodily secretions, masking it with the color of the bark. But masonry can be distinguished by their convex shape. Some of them organize nests in the petioles of large racemes. As a result, the yield drops sharply. By autumn, the beetles hibernate under a viburnum bush.

    There is one fairly simple way to protect viburnum from further harmful effects of leaf beetles. During the mass appearance of beetles in mid-summer, they need to be shaken off early in the morning, at the moments of their least activity, from the foliage onto plastic film. Afterwards, put them in a bucket of water and pour them away. Try to carry out this operation before the start of the laying period.

    Let's also name proven folk remedies for pest control in viburnum. At the beginning of spring, when the branches of the viburnum have not yet overgrown with young leaves, you can cut off the tops of the shoots, where clutches of eggs are visible. The cut pieces must be burned immediately. If everything is carefully checked and eliminated, then next year new beetles will not appear.

    Important! Don't be late with pruning. It needs to be done before the first leaves appear. This method is absolutely harmless to viburnum bushes, and anyone can use it.

    These viburnum pests are not resistant to Karbofos. Its ten percent solution should be sprayed on the bushes before they bloom. During the growing season, the plant should be treated with an infusion of hot pepper or tomato tops.

    Viburnum leaf roller

    This pest looks like a blue-gray or greenish-olive caterpillar with yellowish sides and covered with light hairs. Its head is dark brown. Caterpillars that hatch in the spring devour the buds just as leaves begin to emerge. They entangle them in webs and knock them into lumps. By mid-summer, the leaf roller begins a period of pupation in its feeding areas. In large quantities, this pest can almost completely eat up the viburnum, which has a detrimental effect on the future harvest.


    The fight against leaf rollers comes down to simply collecting caterpillar nests and then burning them. Before the buds open, the viburnum needs to be treated with Nitrafen paste. The 60% mixture comes out of a bucket of water with 250 grams of the substance added to it. During the period from bud break to the appearance of buds, the shrub must be treated with a 10% solution of Karbofos.

    Did you know? Since ancient times, the Slavs have seen viburnum as a symbol of youth, beauty and girlish tenderness. Because it blooms with white flowers, it was called a wedding tree.

    These pests, unlike the previous ones, prefer to “feast” on the flowers of the plant. The larvae of the viburnum gall midge are white, and the honeysuckle is red. They overwinter in the top layer of soil, wrapped in cocoons made of cobwebs. Adult gall midges are active when the buds are first exposed. Females lay eggs inside the buds. The larvae also develop there. As a result, the buds become deformed, increase in size, turn red and swell. The corolla becomes thicker, the pistil and stamens are inhibited in development, and the flowers do not open. Gall midges give only one offspring.

    Measures to combat these pests include loosening the soil in early spring and late autumn. Before and after flowering, viburnum should be sprayed with a solution of “Karbofos” in a 10% ratio.

    Green lobed moth

    This pest is a yellow-green caterpillar with a brown line along the body and similar colored spots. It only harms flowers by gnawing out their ovaries. To get rid of the lobed moth, viburnum is sprayed with a 10% solution of Karbofos.

    The larva of this pest has an olive body with two rows of white transverse spines. The back is painted in burgundy or a mesh pattern. The sides of the sawfly larva are light gray, and the head is yellow. They overwinter in the upper soil layers and pupate in the spring. Adults appear during the leaf bloom period and can gnaw the viburnum bare.

    The fight against sawflies begins in the fall with careful digging of the ground. Next, preparations for viburnum should be administered: a 10% solution of “Karbofos” and wormwood decoction, which is used to spray the viburnum before and after flowering.

    Adult aphids on viburnum lay their eggs on the bark near the buds. This is where the future larvae overwinter. Once born, they make their way to the leaves and suck out all the nutrients from them. As a result, the leaves begin to curl and the apical shoots become deformed. In early summer, pests with wings appear and colonize new plants. In August-September the cycle closes - female black aphids produce another offspring that will overwinter.


    This pest is able to migrate, but lives exclusively on viburnum. Hordes of black aphids with special efforts damage young bushes. The black viburnum aphid can migrate, but lives only on viburnum. It damages young bushes with particular cruelty. During the growing season of viburnum, aphids develop several generations.

    Beginning gardeners often wonder how to get rid of aphids on viburnum. To overcome the black viburnum aphid, you need to cut out and destroy the shoots that are common at the roots. There the pests lay eggs before wintering. To kill aphids, you can release beneficial insects that feed on them. These can be hover flies and lacewing larvae, ladybugs.

    Before the buds open, treat the shoots with Nitrafen paste at a concentration of 60%. Herbal preparations help get rid of aphids well: infusion of potato tops, pepper tincture or a solution of laundry soap.

    Did you know? Viburnum is a shrub that is often confused with a tree, because its height can reach two meters.

    The larch cap moth is a tiny butterfly with a wingspan of no more than 10 mm. Its gray body is covered with shiny scales. Moth larvae are no more than half a centimeter in size and are orange-brown in color. The caterpillar makes a shelter for itself in the form of a cover according to the size of the body and overwinters there. In the spring it feeds on viburnum leaves, pupates in June and becomes a butterfly in July, which lays a couple of eggs. In summer, the eggs hatch into caterpillars.

    The following spring treatment against pests will help in the fight against deciduous cap moths - spraying viburnum during the period of growth of young shoots. In the summer you need to use Fufanon, Actellik, Commander, Iskra and Inta-vir.

    Main diseases of viburnum, treatment methods

    Various diseases to which scorch is susceptible can overcome it year after year, and the number of them is amazing. The whole difficulty is that it is very difficult to find out the cause of the disease, even with a thorough diagnosis. We can only draw a single general conclusion that the plant has undergone a viral attack when spots or stripes appear on its leaves that differ from its natural color.

    Did you know? Viburnum is an excellent honey plant. It produces a lot of nectar.

    Powdery mildew

    Viburnum leaves are rarely affected by this disease. This type of fungus affects viburnum only in the summer, when it is rainy and cool. Only at a time when conditions for pore maturation arise. To remove an unpleasant disease, the following drugs for viburnum should be administered:“Topaz”, “Strobe” or copper-soap solution. Wood ash, which has been cleared of coal particles, also helps in this case. Three kilograms of ash should be poured into a bucket of hot water and left for two days. Viburnum that is sick with powdery mildew should be treated twice a month.

    Gray spots of various shapes with a brown or purple border appear on viburnum leaves. On the underside of the leaf, the spots are olive-gray in color. By September, dark dotted fruiting bodies of the fungus begin to form on the dead tissue. Then the spots crack, dry, and the middle falls out.

    Dealing with spotting is quite simple. It is necessary to remove all affected leaves from the bush. During the budding period, it is necessary to spray the viburnum with Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride.

    Did you know? Viburnum is a health worker among plants, as it produces a large amount of phytoncides that resist harmful organisms.

    Gray and fruit rot

    Gray rot affects viburnum during periods of cold and rainy weather. Especially in the summer. The leaves first acquire large brown spots that spread over the surface. They quickly increase in size, dry out and crack. Spores from infected leaves fall onto healthy ones. Berries affected by gray rot become brown and dry out. The fungus eats right through them. A smoky gray coating of spores can be seen on the surface. To get rid of the disease, you need to collect all the leaves that have fallen in the fall. If viburnum is severely affected by this disease, then it should be sprayed with Vectra during the growing season.


    Fruit rot affects young shoots of the plant. They dry up along with flowers, leaves and berries. With the onset of summer, the berries that are affected by the disease become covered with dense pads, then mummify and turn black.

    You can cope with fruit rot by removing mummified berries with the onset of autumn. You also need to spray the bushes with copper oxychloride before and after the viburnum flowering period.

    Yellowing and mosaic leaves

    Mosaic diseases are a group of viral diseases, which are characterized by variegated colors of the affected organs with alternating spots of different sizes and shapes. The affected areas turn green or white of varying intensity. The leaf blade becomes deformed and the plant begins to lag in growth. Infection with mosaic can occur through seeds, the sap of diseased plants when picking seedlings, through pinching, or when infected plants come into contact with healthy ones. Mechanical carriers of the virus are aphids, bedbugs, mites, soil nematodes. Viruses penetrate plants through damaged tissue and persist in soil, plant debris and seeds.


    To date, there are no known methods to combat this disease that would cope with it forever. The only thing that has been achieved is to find preventative agents and develop varieties that are resistant to leaf mosaic. If the level of infection has not reached a critical point, then diseased areas can be cut out. If the viburnum suffers irreversible consequences, then the bush needs to be dug up and burned.

    Signs of infection are primarily noticeable on young growing shoots. They begin to show light areas along the veins, yellow rings and star-shaped spots. Further, the spots turn white, and with their further merging, the leaf begins to turn yellow. Mosaic disease progresses faster at temperatures of 30 degrees, when the plant is heavily thickened.

    Resistance to the disease decreases with sudden temperature changes, temperatures higher than 30 degrees and very dense placement of plants. Here you need to observe a certain thermal regime. Often the disease is transmitted by insect pests, so you need to carefully monitor their appearance and destroy them in a timely manner. Having discovered a disease, you need to take preventive measures: isolate the viburnum and disinfect equipment. If the plant dies, it must be dug up and destroyed along with the surrounding soil. It is very difficult to accurately determine a specific disease of viburnum.

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    Viburnum is subject to various diseases and pest attacks, but most often the gardener is worried about aphids. How to fight aphids on viburnum and what methods are the most effective, you will learn in today’s article.

    What are aphids?

    Aphids on viburnum - how to fight?

    How to deal with aphids on viburnum:

    • Spray with preparations, solutions and tinctures;
    • Use dry ingredients;

    Folk recipes for fighting aphids on viburnum:

    - Spray with infusion of ash. 1 glass of ash is poured into 1 liter of boiling water and left for 24 hours. after that, add 40 grams of grated laundry soap, then dilute with water to 10 liters.

    — Use a soapy solution. Rub 50 grams of soap per 1 liter of water and dilute. Wipe the leaves with a rag. You can first spray with a spray bottle, and then mechanically remove the aphids.

    Treatment with the “Healthy Garden” preparation. Use 4 grains per 1 liter of water. Treat in emergency cases when active reproduction of aphids is noticeable.

    Aphids on viburnum need to be treated every 2 weeks. Treatment begins with prevention - in early spring. Already in May, treatments are repeated, especially if earlier methods did not produce noticeable results.

    It is necessary to use stronger chemicals in extreme cases, but if there is no other way out, that is the following drugs:

    • The drug "Fitoverm";
    • The drug "Agravertin";

    Tinctures and decoctions for combating aphids on viburnum

    Folk recipes are also effective for controlling aphids on viburnum. They can be used both in the early stages of aphid infestation of a bush and in later stages.

    Recipes for aphid decoctions:

    • Infusion of pine needles : 2-2.5 kg of needles per 10 liters of water. Leave for a week, then strain and bring to 20 liters.
    • Garlic infusion/celandine infusion with added soap.
    • Infusion on citrus peels : citrus peels are poured with boiling water and left for 4 days in a dark place. Strain and add 40 grams of laundry soap.
    • If affected, before sap flow begins, use 0.7% urea solution.
    • Sprinkle bushes in the root zone dry tobacco dust.

    With regular treatment, viburnum recovers after a year and is completely restored in the second year of planting. It is necessary to repeat the treatment next season, in early spring, to consolidate the results of long-term treatment.