Diy LED lantern schemes. How to make a diode flashlight from ordinary

Once I ordered 5630 SMD LEDs from China for a future robot, which I have been collecting for half a year, and now a lot of diodes have come, a whole bay, and the surplus has to be used somewhere 🙂 I decided to collect lighting for the door at the entrance to the house. Having started experimenting, it turned out that you can make good flashlights for lighting in various places of the house, and most importantly, everything can be done from scrap materials! 🙂

The first step is to collect necessary materials, namely:

1. Cover from kefir or milk - the basis of the body of the flashlight
2. SMD 5630 or 5730 LEDs
3. Resistors 3.3 - 12 ohm (depends on power supply)
4. Mounting or printed circuit board
5. Wires
6. Plexiglass - as a case cover
7. 3.7 Volt battery or 5 Volt power supply

In this article, I used SMD 5630 LEDs with an operating voltage of 3.3 Volts and a current of 150 milliamps. The power source is a cell phone battery with a capacity of 5000 mAh and a voltage of 3.8 Volts. With this voltage, 3.3 Ohm resistors are needed, but in the absence of them, 2.2 Ohms had to be used.

When the battery is discharged, its voltage drops and generally does not exceed 3.6 volts, which is quite consistent with the resistance ratings of 2.2 Ohm.

A small piece of circuit board is suitable for attaching LEDs and resistors.

We solder diodes, resistors and supply wires according to the diagram.

The diagram shows the resistor ratings for 3.7 and 5 volts. For a brighter glow, you can add additional LEDs - 3, 4 or more pieces, depending on the size of the cover-case and the required brightness.

After that, you should check the functionality of the circuit by applying power to the corresponding wires.

Now you can fix the board in the lid with hot melt glue.

We pass the wires through the side opening of the cover, also fixing them with hot glue.

Now we attach the transparent plexiglass lid with a second super glue.

I cut out the cover using a 44 mm crown and a screwdriver from a sheet of plexiglass.

We apply glue along the edges of the glass. It can be dots, or it can be a solid line.

Press the torch body tightly and hold it for a few seconds.

The cover is in place. The flashlight is almost ready.

The hole in the center of the flashlight, created by drilling the plexiglass circle, can be closed with a furniture plug.

The flashlight body is ready. If desired, sandpaper the plexiglass for a matte finish. In the photo below, on the left, a flashlight with transparent glass, and on the right - with a matte glass, obtained using sandpaper.

Connect both flashlights to a power source.

This is what the finished product looks like.

The brightness of such lamps is enough to illuminate an entire room.

For example, you can make a backlight on a bookshelf.

Or on a shelf with clothes in the closet.

As a rule, it is desirable to obtain maximum brightness from electric lamps. However, sometimes lighting is required that minimally disrupts the adaptation of vision to darkness. As you know, the human eye can change its light sensitivity over a fairly wide range. This allows, on the one hand, to see at dusk and in poor lighting, and on the other hand, not to go blind on a bright sunny day. If you go outside at night from a well-lit room, then for the first moments you will hardly see anything, but gradually your eyes will adapt to new conditions. Full adaptation of vision to darkness takes about one hour, after which the eye reaches its maximum sensitivity, which is 200 thousand times higher than daytime. In such conditions, even short-term exposure to bright light (turning on a flashlight, car headlight) greatly reduces the sensitivity of the eyes. However, even with full adaptation to darkness, it is sometimes necessary, for example, to read a map, illuminate the instrument scale, and the like, and this requires artificial lighting. Therefore, astronomy lovers, as well as everyone who needs to consider, something in poor lighting conditions does not need a bright flashlight.

When making an astronomical lantern, one should not strive for excessive miniaturization. The body of an astronomical lantern should be light and large enough so that in poor lighting conditions it could be easily found (otherwise you will drop it under your feet and you will look for the flashlight for half an hour). A travel soap dish is used as a body. The switches should be such that they are easy to use by touch and with gloves.

The eye is most sensitive to light with a wavelength of 550 nm (green light), and in the dark, the maximum sensitivity of the eye shifts towards shorter wavelengths up to 510 nm (effect Purkinje). Therefore, in the astronomical lantern, it is preferable to use red LEDs, and not blue, or even more so green. The eyes are less sensitive to red light, which means that red lighting will less disturb adaptation to darkness.

In addition to the main lamp, you can make several simple beacons to illuminate various objects. The fact is that few astronomy lovers can afford to have a full-fledged amateur observatory. Most are watching from the balcony. And in a tight space, and even in the dark, you can easily hook your foot and overwhelm the tripod of a telescope or camera. In addition, it will unexpectedly meet in the dark with a knee with the corner of some drawer or bedside table, the same little pleasure. Therefore, it is advisable to use the simplest mini flashlights to illuminate tripod legs, sharp corners of furniture, shelves with accessories, and so on. In principle, for this purpose, simply an LED fixed with adhesive tape on a 3 V battery type 2032 or the like. But, firstly, without a current-limiting resistor, the LED glow is too bright, and secondly, even in the simplest flashlight, it is desirable to have a switch. Based on these considerations, several of these beacons were made.

A reed switch paired with a magnet is used as a switch. The 3 V battery mount is homemade. A current-limiting resistor is connected in series with the LED, its value must be selected so that in the dark, when looking directly at the LED lens, the light does not blind the eyes even from a close distance. In different beacons, LEDs of different colors can be used to facilitate identification, while remembering that the eye does not have the same sensitivity to light with different wavelengths. Flashing LEDs can be used.

In addition, there are a couple more designs of simple LED lights. The designs specifically described below were not intended for astronomical purposes, but they can easily be adapted for such use.

A simple waterproof flashlight can be made on the basis of a film jar. We need: a new can of photographic film, a 3 V LED, 2-3 reed switches, a 3 V lithium battery 2032 , cotton wool (body filler), battery block from an old flashlight. To ensure water resistance, it is necessary that there are no holes in the body of the flashlight. So as a switch, you can use sealed contacts. For reliable operation, it is better to take 2-3 reed switches, since when turning along the longitudinal axis, the sensitivity of the reed switch changes. So, we collect the flashlight according to the scheme.

We bend the wires so that everything fits in the case, I filled the empty space with cotton so that nothing dangles. We place the circuit in the case. It is important that the film jar is new, i.e. so that the lid closes as tightly as possible. Any magnet will work as a switch. The flashlight of this design continued to work after 10 hours in the water. The cotton wool remained dry. So that prolonged lying in a puddle will not harm such a device.

Surely radio amateurs have pads from failed 9 V batteries of the "Krona" type. On the basis of such a block, you can assemble a simple flashlight that actually does not need a body. An LED is connected to the contacts of the block through a current-limiting resistor.

Outside, the LED and resistor are wrapped in several layers of insulating tape. When put on the battery, the flashlight forms a single unit with it.

Thus, it is possible to adapt almost any suitable housing and battery under a homemade flashlight, although below 3.5 V it will already be necessary to install an LED. Thanks for your attention. Author Denev.

Discuss the article LED LIGHTS WITH YOUR OWN HANDS

Blocking - generator is a generator of short-term pulses repetitive at fairly long intervals.

One of the advantages of blocking generators is their relative simplicity, the ability to connect the load through a transformer, high efficiency, and connect a sufficiently powerful load.

Blocking generators are very often used in amateur radio schemes... But we will run an LED from this generator.

Very often on a hike, fishing or hunting, you need a flashlight. But not always there is a rechargeable battery or 3V batteries at hand. This circuit can run the LED at full power from a nearly discharged battery.

A little about the scheme. Details: any transistor (n-p-n or p-n-p) can be used in my KT315G circuit.

The resistor needs to be selected, but more on that later.

The ferrite ring is not very large.

And the diode is high frequency with low voltage drop.

So, I was cleaning up a drawer in the table and found an old flashlight with an incandescent light bulb, of course, burned out, and recently I saw a diagram of this generator.

And I decided to solder the circuit and put it in a flashlight.

Well, let's get started:

To begin with, we will collect according to this scheme.

We take the ferrite ring (I pulled out from the ballast fluorescent lamp) And we wind 10 turns with a wire of 0.5-0.3mm (it can be thinner, but it will not be convenient). We wound it, we make a loop, well, or a bend, and we wind another 10 turns.

Now we take the KT315 transistor, the LED and our transformer. We collect according to the scheme (see above). I also put a capacitor in parallel with the diode, so it shone brighter.

So they collected it. If the LED is off, reverse the polarity of the battery. Still off, check if the LED and transistor are connected correctly. If everything is correct and still does not burn, then the transformer is not wound correctly. To be honest, my scheme also started up far from the first time.

Now we supplement the diagram with the rest of the details.

Putting the diode VD1 and the capacitor C1, the LED will light up brighter.

The last step is the selection of the resistor. Instead of a constant resistor, we put a variable at 1.5 kOhm. And we begin to twist. You need to find the place where the LED shines brighter, while you need to find a place where if you increase the resistance even slightly, the LED goes out. In my case, this is 471 ohms.

Okay, now more to the point))

We disassemble the flashlight

Cut out a circle from a one-sided thin fiberglass to the size of the flashlight tube.

Now we go and look for details of the required denominations of a few millimeters in size. KT315 transistor

Now we mark the board and cut the foil with a clerical knife.

We trick the fee

We fix the jambs, if any.

Now, to solder the board, we need a special tip, if not, it doesn't matter. We take a wire 1-1.5 mm thick. We clean it thoroughly.

Now we wind on the existing soldering iron. The end of the wire can be sharpened and tinned.

Well, let's start soldering the details.

You can use a magnifying glass.

Well, everything seems to be soldered, except for the capacitor, LED and transformer.

Now test run. We attach all these details (without soldering) to the "snot"

Hooray!! Happened. Now you can solder all the details without fear.

I suddenly wondered what the output voltage was, I measured

LEDs are now embedded anywhere - in toys, lighters, household appliances and even in office supplies. But the most useful invention with them is, of course, a flashlight. Most of them are self-contained and give out a powerful glow from small batteries. With it you will not get lost in the dark, and when working in a dimly lit room, this tool is simply irreplaceable.
Small copies of a wide variety of LED flashlights can be bought at almost any store. They are inexpensive, but the build quality can sometimes be disappointing. It's a different matter with home-made devices that can be made on the basis of the simplest parts. It is interesting, informative and has a developing effect on lovers of tinkering.

Today we will consider another homemade product - an LED flashlight, made literally from improvised parts. Their cost is no more than a few dollars, and the efficiency of the device is higher than that of many factory models. Interesting? Then do it with us.

How the device works

This time the LED is connected to the battery only through a 3 ohm resistance. Since it contains a ready-made energy source, it does not require a storage thyristor and a transistor for voltage distribution, as is the case with the eternal Faraday flashlight. An electronic charging module is used to charge the battery. The tiny micromodule protects against voltage surges and prevents the battery from overcharging. The device is charged from the USB connector, and on the module itself there is a micro USB connector.

Required details

• Plastic syringe for 20 ml;
• Lenses for led flashlight with a body;
• Micro button switch;
• Resistor 3 Ohm / 0.25 W;
• A piece of aluminum plate for a radiator;
• Several copper wires;
• Super glue, epoxy or liquid nails.

Of the tools you will need: a soldering iron with flux, a glue gun, a drill, a lighter and a paint knife.

Putting together a powerful LED flashlight

Preparing the LED with lenses

We take a plastic cap with lenses and mark the radiator circumference. It is needed to cool the LED. On the aluminum plate we mark the mounting grooves, holes and cut out the radiator according to the markings. This can be done, for example, with a drill.

We take out the magnifying lenses for a while, now they are not needed. On the back of the cap, glue the radiator plate onto the superglue. The holes and grooves on the cap and on the radiator must match.

We tinker the contacts of the LED and solder them with copper wiring. We protect the contacts with heat-shrinkable cambric, and warm them up with a lighter. We insert an LED with wiring from the front side of the cap.

Processing the flashlight body from a syringe

We open the plunger with the handle of the syringe, we no longer need them. Cut off the needle cone with a painting knife.
We completely clean the end of the syringe, making holes in it for the LED contacts of the flashlight.
We attach the flashlight cap to the end surface of the syringe with any suitable adhesive, for example, epoxy resin or liquid nails. Do not forget to place the LED contacts inside the syringe.

Connecting micromodule and battery

We attach the terminals with contacts to the lithium battery, and insert them into the syringe body. We tighten the copper contacts to clamp them with the battery case.

The syringe has only a few centimeters of free space, which is insufficient for the charging module. Therefore, it will have to be divided into two parts.
We draw with a painting knife in the middle of the module board, and break it along the cut line. Using double scotch tape we connect both halves of the board together.

We tinker the open contacts of the module and solder them with copper wiring.

Final assembly of the flashlight

We solder a resistor to the module board, and connect it to the micro-button, isolating the contacts with heat shrinkage.

The remaining three contacts are soldered to the module according to its connection diagram. We connect the micro-button last, checking the operation of the LED.

A flashlight is a necessary thing when traveling to nature or out of town to the country. At night, on a personal plot or near a tent, only he will create a ray of light in the dark kingdom. But even in a city apartment, sometimes you just can't do without it. As a rule, it is difficult to get something small and rolled under a bed or sofa without a flashlight. And although nowadays there are devices that are multifunctional and can be a source of light, some of our readers will probably want to know how to make a flashlight with their own hands. How to do small appliance from improvised items, will be described later.

Classics of form

The most convenient design, which, in principle, has remained unchanged for flashlights for many years, is a design that contains:

• cylindrical body with batteries of the same shape;
• a reflector with a light bulb at one end of the housing;
• a removable cover at the other end of the case.

And this design can be obtained using unnecessary household items. If you make a lantern with your own hands, of course, there will be no beauty of forms like an industrial design. But it will be functional and a lot of positive emotions will be received from a working homemade product.

So, the main problem, which at first glance is difficult to solve, is the reflector. But it just seems complicated. In fact, we are surrounded by many objects that can become a blank for a number of reflectors of different sizes. These are ordinary plastic bottles. Their inner surface near the neck is very close in shape to that of a reflector made at the factory. And the lid is as if created for fixing the LED, which is the best light source today. It is brighter and more economical than a miniature light bulb.

Making a reflector

The fact that you may not find a tube of suitable dimensions for making the body is not a problem. It can be glued together from individual parts. For example, from unnecessary disposable ballpoint pens. To spring the contacts, you can use a spiral, which is used for binding pages, and make the contacts from thin sheet metal, the raw material for which will be a tin can. Therefore, we start by choosing a plastic bottle of the desired size and selecting the remaining elements. The smaller the bottle, the harder and stronger the reflector will be. Fastening parts during assembly is easiest to do on the basis of construction sealant.

So, let's start making a flashlight with our own hands. Cut off the neck and the parabolic part of the body from the bottle with a sharp knife and trim the edges with scissors.

For effective reflection, we use foil that wraps the chocolate bars. If its dimensions are not enough, you can cut a larger workpiece from a roll of foil intended for baking food. To keep the foil on the surface, apply a thin layer of sealant. Then we press and level the foil on it. If it wrinkles, it doesn't matter. The main thing is that there are no blisters, and it repeats the shape of the base.

We press the foil with our fingers and, smoothing out irregularities, we form the most even surface. We trim the foil around the edges with scissors flush with the plastic base. Along the contour of the neck, we make a cut with a knife for the LED, which will subsequently be installed in this place on the panel.

We make it from the bottom of the bottle cap by cutting off the threaded edges with a sharp knife and, if necessary, trimming them with scissors. Then, having made two holes in the socket with an awl or the tip of a knife, we pass the legs of the LED through them, pressing its base against it. For correct installation led lamp in the center of the cover it is necessary to choose the distance between the holes according to the position of the legs at the base of the LED.

We bend the LED leads to the sides until they stop against the edge of the panel. We attach the conductors to them by twisting. If the twisting turns out to be unreliable due to the properties of the wire cores or for other reasons, soldering is used. The conclusions after attaching the wires are bent along the panel. It is recommended to check the performance of the part received with the batteries used in the flashlight.

Then we cut out the contact pad for the battery from the sheet metal, which rests against the socket with the LED. By twisting or soldering, we connect the pad - the terminal with a shorter wire. We attach the terminal to the spring, which in turn is attached to the socket. We use a sealant to fasten the elements.

Then we glue the socket with the LED into the reflector.

Bottom and case with batteries

The part of the flashlight body opposite to the reflector is also made from a part of a bottle with a neck. But only from the very neck with a lid. A terminal made of sheet metal is glued to its inner wall. A wire is also attached to it. This wire and the second wire from the LED will be used to control the flashlight. The terminal is in contact with the battery by pressing down on the cap, which is screwed onto the neck.

The two main details are ready. Now we need to make a case for the batteries. For this we use dry and therefore no longer necessary markers. We leave only the body from them, which we shorten in length and cut along the ends along the axis, making two protrusions for gluing. Before cutting, we make notes with a marker, applying the body of the felt-tip pen to the parts to be glued.

Apply glue to the protrusions and glue them to the reflector and the back, respectively.

Then we cut out the switch parts from the sheet metal. We mount wires to them and glue the parts to the body.

We insert batteries into the flashlight and use it. This, of course, is not a factory-made flashlight with a high-quality reflector and high beam. But on the other hand, it is made with your own hands, this is your own product, which gives good near-field illumination and gives great pleasure, and you cannot buy it for money. Now you have got a visual idea of \u200b\u200bhow easy it is to make a lantern yourself.

Ready flashlight and light from it