Mk imitation wood "honey barrel". Amazing paper barrel

To make a keg for drinks you will need:
empty beer can;
newspaper tubes - 52 pieces;
PVA construction glue;
scissors;
stationery knife;
sewing threads;
cardboard circle;
Glue "COSMOFEN".

The neck of a beer can is cut off and a newspaper tube is glued along the edge of the cut using COSMOFEN glue. The central part of the jar is coated with PVA glue and wrapped in several layers with soft tubes in any order to create a thickening. The top of the winding is thickly coated with glue and allowed to dry.

The walls of the future barrel are created in several stages. First, apply glue to a small area of ​​the wall and place the tubes on it in dense rows. Slightly retreating from the edges of the barrel, the tubes are tied with strong threads on both sides. Allow the structures to dry a little and then lay the tubes further. When the entire surface of the jar is covered, it is coated with glue and dried again.

Having stepped back from the edges of the barrel before rewinding the structure with threads, coat this area with PVA glue and apply two rows of tubes, closing the fastening. Once again, the entire product is covered with glue and dried.

A circle equal to the diameter of the bottom is cut out of a piece of cardboard and glued to it using COSMOFEN universal glue.
The finished product is coated with wood stain to match the color of rosewood. In the second stage, the barrel is coated with colorless varnish - acrylic-based impregnation. Now this barrel is not afraid of dampness and can serve as a container for drinks.

For the New Year's party, the youngest son had to make a “barrel of honey” in addition to the bear costume. To do this, we used an empty plastic water bottle, which we painted the inside yellow. Surface painting experts say that it would be better to use acrylic paint, but we limited ourselves to gouache and PVA glue. In the photo, our “barrel” is in the center.




So, empty the plastic bottle of water and let it dry. In a separate bowl, mix yellow gouache and PVA glue in approximately equal volumes.


For us, 2 full tbsp was enough to color a liter bottle. spoons of paint and 4 tbsp. l. glue, since glue cannot be heaped into a spoon. The finished mixture must have fluidity so that it can be distributed over the inner surface of the bottle, and be viscous enough so that it does not immediately flow down the walls to the bottom.

The prepared mixture for coloring was poured into a bottle, closed with a lid and evenly distributed over the inner surface of the bottle. Without removing the lid, we left the bottle for several hours at room temperature. If you remove the cover, the paint will dry faster, but dried-on defects will be more difficult to remove.
Attention! You cannot place a bottle on a battery, because even with slight heating, the paint quickly drains and stains form on the walls of the bottle.

After a few hours, the bottle was again rotated slightly in different directions in order to mask the defects that had formed with the still liquid paint. Remove the lid for 15-20 minutes to ventilate the internal volume of the bottle. The cap was screwed back on and the bottle was left to dry for a few more hours. The mixture of glue and paint gradually thickens and loses its fluidity.


On the outer surface of the painted bottle, you can write the word “Honey” with a felt-tip pen. A children's craft made from a plastic bottle is ready.

We will need two plates of different sizes (the difference should not be very large, about one and a half to two centimeters) and a container that will then be located inside the gift barrel;

We will need corrugated cardboard. We cut out circles from corrugated cardboard: 1 circle – large (within which we cut out a circle for further gift packaging) Trace the gift along the most protruding part and then be sure to try it on, and if our gift hardly fits into the hole, enlarge it a little. 2 circles of smaller diameter with holes inside and 1 circle of smaller diameter without inner hole. We will also need 1 circle of thin cardboard (whatman paper can be used), but its internal hole should be 1-2 mm narrower than the other internal holes;

In order not to have to worry about calculations, I took a flexible centimeter and measured the circumference of our circles. The larger one turned out to be 52 cm and the smaller one was 46.

We need to determine how many centimeters in height the barrel will be (the height of the gift + the bottom and top of the barrel), I added 2 cm at the top and bottom (4 cm in total)

We also need to determine how many cm in length we should make the pattern of the barrels. Our barrel will consist of two canvases. Since our largest circle is 52 cm in circumference, we boldly add 3 cm, and maybe even 4 cm. (Depends on the thickness of the cardboard - the thicker it is, the more centimeters it will eat). The first half of the barrel is larger than the second, look at your box (how long it is). Our first ring will be located in the middle of the barrel and on the canvas we look for the middle, outline a straight line and from it another 2.5 - 3 cm up and down we draw lines (we get a strip of 5-6 cm. In the middle of this strip we will glue a larger circle)! !! The cardboard has corrugated grooves; they should run vertically. Next, we need to knead 5 centimeter-thick strips along these grooves (hereinafter referred to as the boards of our barrel) and since circles of smaller diameters will be at the top and bottom, we make grooves like on a skirt (we cut along the fold line of each future board and cut to the mark that we we did it by measuring the middle) We cut to the mark closest to the edge and cut out an undercut (it should turn out to be a triangle);

We do the same on the smaller half of the barrel.

This way the larger circle will be located in the middle;

Cut out strips 1 cm * 2-2.5 cm.

Glue with glue;

Those places where we made grooves on the sides of the barrel (on two halves) - crumple them with our fingers and round them off from the mark where the grooves end (we don’t take into account the area where the large circle will be located, we only round off the tops and bottom), glue the strips onto the corrugated cardboard circles with holes. The following are left without stripes: a circle without a hole made of HA and a circle with a hole made of thin cardboard.

We glue our circles with holes: two smaller circles down and up (departing from the edges approximately 1 cm.) The glue is not super fast and you have to squeeze hard to get it to stick. You can tie them with elastic bands or strings of any kind to, let’s say, tighten our circles to the maximum.

While the glue dries, let's work on the lid:

We cut off the smaller circle, which is intended for the lid, a little along the edge so that the lid is flush with the top of the barrel.

We cut out 6 strips: 4 smaller and 2 larger, try them on the lid;

glue two strips together;

We glue two more smaller circles to the top circle;

The two bottom circles should be less than the top by a maximum of 1 cm. Try the bottom circles on the barrel so that they fit completely and lie on the top circle of the barrel, the circle with the hole.

We cover the finished lid and the element with which we will open it later with yacht varnish.

We treat all holes and irregularities with papier mache, sand, putty, sand again, cover with yacht varnish, glaze... see further.

We choose where our barrel will have the top and pour glue into the corrugated grooves and begin to crumple the cardboard, gluing the upper and lower parts between which the grooves are located (there should be the effect of thin cardboard.) If the three parts that make up the GC are separated, then we glue them very well to avoid air bubbles in the future. If we have air bubbles, our putty will fly around. To the bottom of the barrel, to the bottom circle with a hole, glue a circle without a hole.

While the first strip is being glued, you can apply glue to the second. While it dries on the last board, glue the previous one.

You can help yourself and clamp the tops with something while they are glued (either with clamps or clothespins, just be careful so that the clamps do not stick to the barrel),

After we have everything glued, we varnish the outside of our entire barrel thoroughly with yacht varnish.

Prepare papier mache mixture. We cut the napkins into small pieces and fill them with PVA; it is better to take a larger container;

We cover all the holes with papier mache solution, remove the excess with a cloth. When the solution dries it will be difficult to sand. The remaining solution will go to the bottom of the barrel;

This is what the barrel and lid with holder look like, treated with papier mache.

After drying, we sand the entire product and apply putty, smoothing out all the unevenness. Don't forget to apply putty to the bottom and level it with a spatula.

We also apply putty to the lid and holder;

We take a spatula and at an angle of 45 degrees we begin to draw our tree, all the knots and grooves;

After the putty has dried, we take sandpaper and clean everything up. We align everything. We coat all places with putty with yacht varnish. The putty will yellow slightly from the varnish.

Next, we need to think about the internal state of our barrel. We take whatman paper and roll it into a tube, coat our holes in the circles with glue, insert whatman paper and glue it to the sides of the holes in the circles;

We make notches on the top of the Whatman paper with scissors, bend it and cut off the excess. Glue the folded parts to the top circle of HA;

On top we glue a circle of thin cardboard with an internal hole slightly smaller than the circles made of GC. , We coat the top and whatman paper - tube with yacht varnish;

After the varnish has dried, we cover all the cracks with putty, then again with yacht varnish, wait for it to dry;

We prepare brushes, a cloth and paints for glazing. “Tair” paints brown, white and gray, ocher; "Plaid" 915;

Mix gray “Tair” and brown “Plaid” 915 paints and apply the first layer, wait for drying;

Do not forget to paint the lid along with the barrel to avoid discrepancies in color;

We added splashes of Tair ocher, bleached the dark brown a little to light brown and sprinkled it further, then we applied dark splashes - take gray paint and apply it with some water on top, giving the effect of dusty antiquity. Next, we play with color;

Don’t forget to apply all layers to the barrel lid. After we achieve the desired result and are satisfied with it, we put brown dots on the lid, near the holder, imitating carnations;

After all the layers of paint have dried, we can coat the barrel with the finishing varnish in one layer, I use “Technolog” varnish. Next, after the varnish has dried, we begin to draw the boards. To make our barrel more like a real one, we will draw small triangles on the edges of the lines, imitating cracks;

We also draw boards on the lid;

We draw our knots with brown paint, highlight all the grooves or those that we want to highlight;

Since our barrel tapers towards the bottom and towards the top, we will need to make a pattern for our hoops first from paper, cut thin strips and equip ourselves with double-sided tape.

We remember where our pattern will begin and begin measuring in small pieces. For convenience, the beginning of the pattern can be glued to the barrel with a small piece of tape. We make sure that the strip runs evenly along the top; as soon as it starts to go down, we tear it off and glue the next strip onto double-sided tape so that it runs evenly. Leave an overlap.

This is the curved pattern we got. We put notches where the beginning is and mark the top. We turn the barrel over and use the same pattern to make a pattern;

We cut off the top and bottom of the tin can, cut it lengthwise to form a rectangle, and cut off any unevenness for safety reasons!!! For convenience, we will paste several small strips of double-sided tape onto the paper pattern and place it on a tin can. We also glue a piece of tape to the edge of the tin pattern and glue a tin piece to it, continuing the pattern...

We clean the resulting tin pattern from the paint layer, do not remove the paper pattern yet.

Those places where we were fastened with tape (tin to gesture) we will need to connect them;

To do this, we take either an awl or a tailor's needle (a thick needle) and make two holes at the joints, helping with either a hammer or heavy pliers. Be sure to place an unnecessary magazine so as not to spoil the table. We try on the rings to the barrel and close them with pieces of wire. We bend the wire in the shape of the letter P and clamp it from the inside out like a bracket with pliers;

We take a sponge and apply brown paint to the tin using tapping movements. If you decide to make a pattern (squeeze) on the tin, then use bitumen varnish rather than paint (it will show all the patterns, but there is a drawback - it smells terrible)

We process both rings and wait for drying;

We remove the paper pattern, remove the tape with a napkin or cloth, use coarse sandpaper to go over the rings for better adhesion to the glue, glue the hoops and pull them onto the barrel, pressing so that they stick. If the glue doesn’t work, then you need to take a hot gun. Next we coat it with finishing varnish and apply decoupage.

If you are interested, I have a video of MK.

Comments

	Elena Milovanova (March 21, 2014 at 8:31):
	Olga, it seems like a very interesting and useful MK, thanks for posting! I write “it feels” because it’s quite difficult to see everything in detail; the photos are too small, unfortunately. The end result pleased me as far as I can tell - it turned out very realistic! And yes, I would like to see the video

Olga Myagkova (March 21, 2014 at 23:33):
Irina, thank you very much!

MK Imitation wood, glaze. "Gift Barrel for Honey"

1. We will need two plates of different sizes (the difference should not be very large, about one and a half to two centimeters) and a container that will then be located inside the gift barrel;

2. We will need corrugated cardboard. We cut out circles from corrugated cardboard: 1 circle - large (within which we cut out a circle for further gift packaging) Trace the gift along the most protruding part and then be sure to try it on, and if our gift hardly fits into the hole, enlarge it a little. 2 circles of smaller diameter with holes inside and 1 circle of smaller diameter without inner hole. We will also need 1 circle of thin cardboard (whatman paper can be used), but its internal hole should be 1-2 mm narrower than the other internal holes;

3. In order not to have to worry about calculations, I took a flexible centimeter and measured the circumference of our circles. The larger one turned out to be 52 cm and the smaller one was 46.

4. We need to determine how many centimeters in height the barrel will be (the height of the gift + the bottom and top of the barrel), I added 2 cm at the top and bottom (4 cm in total)

We also need to determine how many cm in length we should make the pattern of the barrels. Our barrel will consist of two canvases. Since our largest circle is 52 cm in circumference, we boldly add 3 cm, and maybe even 4 cm. (Depends on the thickness of the cardboard - the thicker it is, the more centimeters it will eat). The first half of the barrel is larger than the second, look at your box (how long it is). Our first ring will be located in the middle of the barrel and on the canvas we look for the middle, draw a straight line and from it another 2.5 - 3 cm up and down we draw lines (we get a strip of 5-6 cm. In the middle of this strip we will glue a larger circle)! !! The cardboard has corrugated grooves; they should run vertically. Next, we need to knead 5 centimeter-thick strips along these grooves (hereinafter the boards of our barrel) and since circles of smaller diameters will be at the top and bottom, we make darts like on a skirt (we cut along the fold line of each future board and cut to the mark that we we did it by measuring the middle) Cut to the mark closest to the edge and cut out the dart (you should get a triangle);

5. On the smaller half of the barrel we do the same.

6. This way the larger circle will be located in the middle;

7. Cut out strips 1 cm * 2-2.5 cm.

8. Glue with glue;

9. Those places where we made darts on the sides of the barrel (on two halves) - crumple with our fingers and round off from the mark where the darts end (we do not take into account the area where the large circle will be located, we only round off the tops and bottom), glue the strips onto the circles made of corrugated cardboard with holes. The following are left without stripes: a circle without a hole made of HA and a circle with a hole made of thin cardboard.

We glue our circles with holes: two smaller circles down and up (departing from the edges approximately 1 cm.) The glue is not super fast and you have to squeeze hard to get it to stick. You can tie them with elastic bands or strings of any kind to, let’s say, tighten our circles to the maximum.

While the glue dries, let's work on the lid:

We cut off the smaller circle, which is intended for the lid, a little along the edge so that the lid is flush with the top of the barrel.

We cut out 6 strips: 4 smaller and 2 larger, try them on the lid;

glue two strips together;

We glue two more smaller circles to the top circle;

The two bottom circles should be less than the top by a maximum of 1 cm. Try the bottom circles on the barrel so that they fit completely and lie on the top circle of the barrel, the circle with the hole.

We cover the finished lid and the element with which we will open it later with yacht varnish.

We treat all holes and irregularities with papier mache, sand, putty, sand again, cover with yacht varnish, glaze... see further.

We choose where our barrel will have the top and pour glue into the corrugated grooves and begin to crumple the cardboard, gluing the upper and lower parts between which the grooves are located (there should be the effect of thin cardboard.) If the three parts that make up the GC are separated, then we glue them very well to avoid air bubbles in the future. If we have air bubbles, our putty will fly around. To the bottom of the barrel, to the bottom circle with a hole, glue a circle without a hole.

While the first strip is being glued, you can apply glue to the second. While it dries on the last board, glue the previous one.

You can help yourself and clamp the tops with something while they are glued (either with clamps or clothespins, just be careful so that the clamps do not stick to the barrel),

After we have everything glued, we varnish the outside of our entire barrel thoroughly with yacht varnish.

Prepare papier mache mixture. We cut the napkins into small pieces and fill them with PVA; it is better to take a larger container;

We cover all the holes with papier mache solution, remove the excess with a cloth. When the solution dries it will be difficult to sand. The remaining solution will go to the bottom of the barrel;

This is what the barrel and lid with holder look like, treated with papier mache.

After drying, we sand the entire product and apply putty, smoothing out all the unevenness. Don't forget to apply putty to the bottom and level it with a spatula.

We also apply putty to the lid and holder;

We take a spatula and at an angle of 45 degrees we begin to draw our tree, all the knots and grooves;

After the putty has dried, we take sandpaper and clean everything up. We align everything. We coat all places with putty with yacht varnish. The putty will yellow slightly from the varnish.

Next, we need to think about the internal state of our barrel. We take whatman paper and roll it into a tube, coat our holes in the circles with glue, insert whatman paper and glue it to the sides of the holes in the circles;

We make notches on the top of the Whatman paper with scissors, bend it and cut off the excess. Glue the folded parts to the top circle of HA;

On top we glue a circle of thin cardboard with an internal hole slightly smaller than the circles made of GC. , We coat the top and the Whatman paper tube with yacht varnish;

After the varnish has dried, we cover all the cracks with putty, then again with yacht varnish, wait for it to dry;

We prepare brushes, a cloth and paints for glazing. “Tair” paints brown, white and gray, ocher; "Plaid" 915;

Mix gray “Tair” and brown “Plaid” 915 paints and apply the first layer, wait for drying;

Do not forget to paint the lid along with the barrel to avoid discrepancies in color;

We added splashes of Tair ocher, bleached the dark brown a little to light brown and sprinkled it further, then we applied dark splashes - take gray paint and apply it with some water on top, giving the effect of dusty antiquity. Next, we play with color;

Don’t forget to apply all layers to the barrel lid. After we achieve the desired result and are satisfied with it, we put brown dots on the lid, near the holder, imitating carnations;

After all the layers of paint have dried, we can coat the barrel with the finishing varnish in one layer, I use “Technolog” varnish. Next, after the varnish has dried, we begin to draw the boards. To make our barrel more like a real one, we will draw small triangles on the edges of the lines, imitating cracks;

We also draw boards on the lid;

We draw our knots with brown paint, highlight all the grooves or those that we want to highlight;

Since our barrel tapers towards the bottom and towards the top, we will need to make a pattern for our hoops first from paper, cut thin strips and equip ourselves with double-sided tape.

We remember where our pattern will begin and begin measuring in small pieces. For convenience, the beginning of the pattern can be glued to the barrel with a small piece of tape. We make sure that the strip runs straight along the top; as soon as it starts to go down, we tear it off and glue the next strip onto double-sided tape so that it runs evenly. Leave an overlap.

This is the curved pattern we got. We put notches where the beginning is and mark the top. We turn the barrel over and use the same pattern to make a pattern;

We cut off the top and bottom of the tin can, cut it lengthwise to form a rectangle, and cut off any unevenness for safety reasons!!! For convenience, we will paste several small strips of double-sided tape onto the paper pattern and place it on a tin can. We also glue a piece of tape to the edge of the tin pattern and glue a tin piece to it, continuing the pattern...

We clean the resulting tin pattern from the paint layer, do not remove the paper pattern yet.

Those places where we were fastened with tape (tin to gesture) we will need to connect them;

To do this, we take either an awl or a tailor's needle (a thick needle) and make two holes at the joints, helping with either a hammer or heavy pliers. Be sure to place an unnecessary magazine so as not to spoil the table. We try on the rings to the barrel and close them with pieces of wire. We bend the wire in the shape of the letter P and clamp it from the inside out like a bracket with pliers;

We take a sponge and apply brown paint to the tin using tapping movements. If you decide to make a pattern (squeeze out) on the tin, then use bitumen varnish rather than paint (it will show all the patterns, but there is a drawback - it smells terrible)

We process both rings and wait for drying;

We remove the paper pattern, remove the tape with a napkin or cloth, use coarse sandpaper to go over the rings for better adhesion to the glue, glue the hoops and pull them onto the barrel, pressing so that they stick. If the glue doesn’t work, then you need to take a hot gun. Next we coat it with finishing varnish and apply decoupage.

If you are interested, I have a video of MK.

Amazing paper barrel. Simple master class

We will need:

1. beer cardboard (white, not the thickest)

2. glue "Moment Crystal"

3. watercolor paints

5. scrap paper

6. flowers and decorations to your taste

We cut out a round bottom from beer cardboard (mine is 13.5 cm in diameter) and cut into strips. For a diameter like mine, I cut it 1.5 cm wide and 10 cm high.

Next, from paper (I took it for graphic work, it can be used for drawing, the main thing is not too thin) we cut out a strip 42 cm long - this is exactly the width of an A3 sheet, it was just enough for me. The height can be calculated as follows: 10 cm - bottom height + 2-3 cm. At a distance of these 2-3 cm we crease and cut into triangles, as in the photo.

I secured the joint with a piece of regular tape.

We glue our stripes around the perimeter.

We cut out two strips from beer cardboard (these will be our rims on the tub) 1.5 cm wide and approximately 44.5 cm long (it’s better to take extra and cut off the excess later).

Here is a nuance: my beer cardboard is quite thin and bends very well. If yours is thick, then you need to moisten it a little and wrap it around the box, and hold it there until it dries so that it takes shape.

To give it an aged look, paint over the distance between the stripes with black. I used regular watercolor paints.

Then we cover it with white primer or acrylic paint.

We tint it with blue paint, or whatever you like best)))) I tried to do the opposite on one part - first paint it with blue paint, and then with primer. I liked both options.

We also paint stripes.

Leave to dry.

When everything is dry, glue the strips in a circle.

From paper we cut out a circle with a diameter 1 mm smaller than our bottom and two strips 21 cm long and 10 cm wide (height of the barrel), glue everything inside.

You can leave it as is, or you can decorate it to your taste. I decorated with flowers))