A stove with a stove bench - what are all the stove makers silent about?! Swede stove with a stove bench Do-it-yourself cooking stove with a stove bench.

Many fairy tales known to us from childhood feature a Russian stove, on which people relax, bake bread and cook food, and cure diseases of the respiratory system and musculoskeletal system. And these functions are not empty tales at all. Brick perfectly accumulates heat, distributing it evenly, so it is always warm and comfortable on the bed.

The Russian stove is beautiful and multifunctional. A stove bench (the horizontal covering of the top of a Russian stove) is not only good for relaxation, it is suitable for drying clothes, shoes, herbs and fruits, this becomes especially important in the fall, during the rainy season and stockpiling supplies for the winter.

Sometimes the bed (bed) was made with two tiers. Adults settled on the lower shelf, and children were placed on the upper one, where the warm air created an atmosphere of comfort. The oven itself produces incredibly tasty bread and various foods that are fried, boiled or simmered. Craftsmen adapted the Russian oven for firing clay toys and dishes. The most interesting use of large stoves is instead of a bathhouse. A vat of water was placed in the firebox, the bottom was thoroughly cleaned, lined with straw, and then hygienic procedures were performed.

Currently, stoves with a stove bench are built both in country houses and in cottages. But if earlier, in order to climb onto the stove bench, you had to use an extension ladder, now the design of the stove has been modernized and the stove bench is placed at a height of about one meter from the floor level. This is especially true in families with children and elderly people.

In modernized stove designs, beautiful fireplaces are installed. And the external finishing is done with decorative relief tiles - tiles, turning the stoves into a real treasure.

Let's summarize the pros and cons of a stove with a stove bench.

Advantages of the stove:

• — high efficiency;
• — good heat accumulation and uniform heat transfer;
• — ease of operation;
• - safety;
• - long service life - up to 30 years or more;
• - therapeutic effect;
• — when positioned correctly, a stove with a stove bench does not take up much space and allows you to heat several rooms at the same time;
• — the oven retains heat well after heating;
• — a stove with a stove bench fits aesthetically into any interior.
• Flaws:
• — masonry requires skill and professionalism;
• - solid fuel used in a Russian stove causes garbage to appear in the house, takes up space, and takes time to prepare it (cutting wood);
• — high fuel consumption;
• — in the classical design, only the upper and middle parts were warm, while the lower part of the stove remained cold, which required modernization and improvement of the stove model with a stove bench.

Dimensions of a classic oven: width about one and a half meters (two arshins); length - just over two meters (three arshins); the bed was placed at a height of approximately human height - approximately 180 centimeters (or two and a half arshins), the height of the hearth was approximately 45 cm, the height of the hearth was taken equal to the height of the table.

The stove was erected on a foundation made of small fragments of brick, stones, or less often on a log foundation (oak, pine and other species). The structure was erected at the same time as the house, but their foundations are by no means built together; isolation is a must. The oven itself was built either from baked bricks or from adobe (in those families where income did not allow the use of red brick for construction). The first “dymnitsa” (chimneys) were made of wood, then, due to the fire hazard of the material, wood was replaced with stone and brick.

Furnace design: crucible - firebox, place where fuel combustion occurs; pole and sub-rack - auxiliary table for dishes and a niche under it; under – the bottom of the firebox; hailo - a hole for releasing smoke into the hut; oven - space for storing firewood; mouth - a hole for storing firewood, closed with a flap.

Operating principle

Fuel placed in the front part of the combustion chamber produces heat when burned. To maintain the uniform combustion process, air enters through the lower plane. Hot flue gases go up into the chimney, bypassing the mouth, shield, hilo and a special threshold in front of the shield, designed to retain hot gases in the furnace. The walls of the structure heat up very slowly and cool down just as slowly.

DIY Russian stove with a stove bench

Before preparing materials and tools, we prepare drawings with order. The drawings should reflect the number of bricks, fittings, and dimensions.

Foundation

Foundation options:

— rubble concrete;

- brick;

— reinforced concrete from blocks 40x20x20;

- monolithic reinforced - the most common and simplest.

1. Digging a foundation pit. The size of the foundation is equal to the size of the stove base, plus 15-20 cm.

2. Place a filter pad. Place wet sand at the bottom of the pit. We compact it until it stops settling, periodically adding a new portion.

3. On a layer of sand we lay crushed stone, small pieces of broken bricks, again a thin layer of sand, moisten it, compact it. Next, pour another layer of crushed stone about ten centimeters thick and compact it.

4. Cover the crushed stone with two sheets of waterproofing.

5. Install the formwork. To do this, we install boards or plywood in the pit. At the same time, we leave a distance of 10 cm between the walls of the pit and the “box”. We insure the boards with supports and heavily moisten them so that the wood does not draw moisture out of the solution.

6. To lay the reinforcement, pour 4-5 cm of cement mortar into the formwork. While the cement sets, we tie the metal rods with wire strictly perpendicularly. The distance from the ends of the rods to the formwork is 1-2 cm.

7. Mix a solution of cement (1 part), sand (3 parts) and crushed stone (5 parts). Pour the solution in layers of 20 cm. We compact each of them using a vibropress or a manual tamper.

8. When the solution has set, cover it with waterproofing (tarpaulin, roofing felt, etc.).

Important! Be sure to check that the poured solution is horizontal. We use a building level. If the foundation is not poured correctly, the furnace structure may warp or crack.

Preparing materials

In order to build a classic stove you will need: about eighty buckets of cement, an appropriate amount of fine sand, clay, 1700 pieces of brick, a view with a half-door and a valve (the hole inside is 26x24 cm).

A step-by-step guide to building a Russian stove

1) We use refractory fireclay bricks. To achieve correct ligation (brick seams), we cut each brick by ¾ and install three such bricks in the corners of the masonry so that they exactly adjoin each other.

2) We are building the walls of the future guardianship.

3) In this row we use four ¾ bricks.

4) We build row number 4 from solid bricks. We break off the corners of those bricks that will be located at the base of the oven. These bricks will become the supports (heels) of the arch. We install a wooden form for laying the arch, then we lay the arch. We bevel the bricks, for accuracy using a thread stretched from the center of the formwork to the upper edge of the brick.

5) In this row, 20 bricks need to be beveled at an angle. This angle is necessary for the construction of the arch of the oven.

6) We make the walls on the sides one brick thick. We lay out the front and rear walls in two layers thick. We insert wooden semicircular formwork between the side walls. Using this form we lay out the roof of the oven. In the future, the formwork will need to be removed, so it must be collapsible.

Let's start laying the vault. We make the gaps between the bricks the same and fill them with mortar. For strength, you can insert a small piece of brick into the gaps.

7-8) We carry out construction, strictly observing dressing. We use plumb lines to check the verticality of the edges. In the eighth row we make the base for the cold stove.

9) We build a stove, a row of solid fireclay, on the corners of 1/2 and 3/4 parts.

10) We line up a row, pour a layer of fine sand between the walls.

11) We make a continuous masonry-slab on top of the sand backfill.

12) We are building for stoves and hearths. The fireclays that form under the stoves do not need to be fastened with cement. We fill the space (cracks) between them with sand. In the left corner of the hearth we make a furnace - a recess for hot coals.

13) We build the walls of the cooking chamber and the walls of the hearth. For the mouth of the furnace, we install a metal perforated arc between the furnace and the hearth. We insert a ductile iron or copper wire into the perforation, which is then embedded in the mortar between the brickwork.

14-16) We build rows of crucible and hearth.

17) We lay the supports for the roof of the furnace - 8 beveled fireclays. We strengthen wooden formwork on them. We lay out an arch of ½ bricks.

19-22) Lay out continuous rows (we are building a roof on which to build bed). In front of 22, we fill up the sand next to it. We leave an open opening above the pole.

23) We build up the walls. We make a hole on the right for easy cleaning of the stove from ash.

24-26) We close the over-pipe. We leave an opening for the chimney and views.

27-28) Install the half-door opposite the view.

29-30) We are still building the walls of the overpipe.

31) We make a number of additional bricks (3 pcs).

32) We overlap the overpipe and attach the valve to the right.

33) We are building a chimney. All rows are the same, six bricks each. We make a brick overlap near the ceiling.

After construction, we let the stove dry, check the draft and carry out external finishing.

Video - Russian stove with a stove bench

In this article we will try to find out how a heating and cooking stove with a stove bench can be useful, what you will need to purchase for its manufacture and what you should pay attention to when designing it.

Why is this necessary?

The design is advantageous, first of all, because it requires minimal wood consumption for the comfort of one or two people. Heating and a hob are needed for obvious purposes; the stove bench will retain heat for a long time after the stove has been heated.

In addition to the hunting lodges mentioned in the title, the design is also popular in ordinary rural houses. Remember the eternal character of countless jokes - grandfather on the stove? The bed was not always a separate part of the stove, but, one way or another, it was possible to warm up on the stove in all centuries of its existence.

It is clear that we will have to use only and exclusively brick. Sleeping on a hot steel or cast iron stove is problematic, and its thermal capacity is not sufficient to retain heat for at least 8 hours.

However, you will have to purchase a cast iron grate, doors, valves and a hob. Steel in furnaces is used only as a particularly budget option and does not last long.

In addition to the opportunity to warm up, the bed is a convenient and effective dryer for shoes, clothes, picked berries, fruits or mushrooms. Of course, before drying food, you should first run it through the oven.

An even more interesting design option for a residential building is a heating and cooking stove with a fireplace and a stove bench.

Basic moments

• The stove requires dampers that provide summer and winter combustion modes. In summer, there is no need to heat up the entire stove array for cooking: the house will be unbearably hot. In winter, on the contrary, heat loss is undesirable.
• However, you need to heat the stove with the dampers in summer mode. The more complex the chimney, the greater the amount of smoke that will end up in the house before the stove ignites.
  After the chimney has warmed up (usually this takes no more than 15 minutes), the winter passage dampers open and the summer passage is closed.
• Cement mortars for masonry are not suitable for all brick kilns.. At high temperatures they crack. The brick is placed on a clay mortar that can withstand temperatures up to 1000C.

Foundation

Like any other brick structure, a heating stove with a stove bench and a hob requires the construction of its own foundation. Its total weight will be 3-8 tons; Accordingly, there can be no talk of support on beams or joists.

Traditionally, a reinforced concrete slab with dimensions slightly larger than the future furnace is poured.

The procedure is approximately this:

• A hole is dug 0.8-1 meter deep. The future foundation of the stove should not be closely adjacent to the foundation of the house: a gap of at least 5 centimeters is needed. The bottom is leveled strictly.

• The bottom is covered with sand in a layer of at least 10 cm and spilled with a large amount of water. The sand should settle and compact.
• A layer of crushed stone of 10-15 cm is poured and again compacted.
• The reinforcing frame is laid. The mesh is not enough: remember the mass of the oven. The frame must be designed for a concrete thickness of at least 30 centimeters and is made with vertical posts and two levels of horizontal reinforcement. The reinforcement is not welded, but knitted with wire.
• Then the foundation is poured. Its top should be slightly lower than the finished floor level.
• We waterproof the finished foundation with two layers of roofing material and lay two layers of brick on top, which will serve as the base of the furnace.

Important: concrete gains maximum strength within a month. If the weather is dry, hot, it is covered with sawdust and periodically watered.
This simple instruction is designed to prevent cracks from appearing.

Furnace laying

We deliberately do not include: if you do not have the experience to construct it yourself, it is not difficult to find clear instructions on the Internet (see also). But, really, it’s better to hire an experienced stove maker: experience and knowledge of many subtleties are difficult to replace.

If you still decide to do all the work yourself, well, we will only dare to give a few general recommendations on purchasing and some design details.

Materials

Approximate consumption of materials for a stove measuring 180x130 centimeters with a stove bench 180x60:

• Bricks - 800 pieces.
• Valves - 2 pieces.
• Fire door.
• Cast iron stove for cooking.
• Blower door.
• Grate.

• Oven.

In addition, you will need at least 20 buckets of clay mortar, wire to secure the doors and an asbestos cord.

The estimated price for the project will be 15-20 thousand rubles.

• An asbestos cord is laid under the hob. They are also wrapped around doors and damper frames before installation in the masonry. The goal is obvious: we need to prevent combustion products from entering the room.
• Hook the doors with wire and lay it between the rows of masonry, bending the ends. The wire will provide fixation until the solution sets.
• It is better to make a cap under the stove bench rather than a duct chimney. Then it will retain more heat and will not cool down longer.
• It is better to make the bed itself no higher than 90 centimeters from the floor. In addition to the fact that it will be convenient to climb on it without seizures, then it will be better to warm up the bottom of the room. After all, heat rises, and the stove bench will stay warm the longest.

Conclusion

You can find additional information on how stoves with benches are installed (see also) in the video at the end of the article. Warm winters!

There are a huge number of types of stoves used for heating, but they differ in their internal configuration, appearance, finish and type of fuel used.

A stove with a stove bench performs several functions at once - as it heats the room, it brings aesthetic and physical pleasure.

The only condition for the correct construction of a Russian stove with a stove bench is the use of exclusively brick as a building material. Neither cast iron nor steel can be used as a building material for a stove of this type.

Useful properties of stoves with a stove bench

Having slept several nights in a row on such a stove, one could get rid of a cold or joint pain, and even serious illnesses often receded, unable to overcome the saving warmth.

The Russian stove with a stove bench is a multifunctional building.

1. Firstly, in addition to the relaxing and relaxing effect on a person relaxing on a couch, it also has a beneficial effect on the state of the circulatory and musculoskeletal systems of the body.
2. Secondly, the stove can be used for its intended purpose - for cooking.
3. The third important aspect of the purpose of a stove with a stove bench is the presence on it of a horizontal area for drying clothes almost all year round, and for drying medicines in the cold season.

The beds could also have several tiers - adult family members settled on the lower level, and children slept on the upper level.

The Russian stove, which has a large firebox niche, after preliminary cleaning and lining with straw, was used instead of a bathhouse.

Modern heating stove with stove bench

If in past times a ladder was attached to the stove to climb onto a high bed, then according to the latest design features, the bed is made at a height of no more than a meter above the floor, which allows both small children and elderly people to easily climb onto it.

A modern stove with a stove bench fits harmoniously into your interior

The classic design meant heating only the middle and upper parts of the furnace, while the lower part continued to remain cold.

A heating stove with a stove bench has a number of practical advantages:

• has high efficiency, excellently accumulating and evenly releasing heat;
• safe and easy to use, has a huge service life of more than 30 years;
• Proper placement of the stove in the house will reduce the space it occupies and heat several rooms at once.

However, like any other large-sized building, the Russian stove with a stove bench also has its disadvantages:

• high professionalism and practical skills of the builder performing the masonry;
• The use of firewood as a large-sized solid fuel entails the accumulation of garbage in the house, and also requires the allocation of a special place for its storage.

DIY Russian stove with a stove bench

The classic Russian stove is 1.5 m wide, 2 m long, and 1.8 m long.

The height of the hearth approximately coincided with the height of the dining table, and the height of the hearth was determined at 45 cm

The standard material for constructing the foundation of the furnace was broken brick; much less often the stove was wooden. Initially, all chimneys of Russian stoves were made of wood - due to its instability to fire, wood was replaced with stone.

The stove is an extremely heavy element of the stove structure, weighing from 4 to 7 tons, and therefore has a separate foundation, in its modern form most often represented by a reinforced mesh.

It is worth considering the construction plan “What is a Russian stove”, the diagram of which is quite simple.

The most important place inside the furnace, the firebox, where fuel combustion occurs, is called the “crucible”. The bottom of the firebox is called “under”. A certain amount of smoke is released back into the hut through a special hole called a hail.

The surface adapted for storing firewood is called an “oven” - they are stored through the mouth, which is closed by a damper.

The Russian stove also has an adaptive niche and a table for dishes - a “pole” and a “pod”.

The principle of operation of the furnace is to remove carbon monoxide fumes through the chimney, bypassing the chimney and mouth, resulting from the burning of firewood in the far segment of the firebox, by introducing cold air into the furnace from the bottom of the furnace. Thus, the effect of maximum heat saving is achieved - the oven heats up slowly and also melts slowly.

Order and foundation

Scheme of the order of the stove with a stove bench

The main stage of construction is the correct calculation of the necessary tools, building materials and fittings. The service life of the furnace and its environmental safety will depend on the accuracy of the drawing.

The foundation used in the construction of a Russian stove can be of several types:

rubble concrete, brick, consisting of reinforced concrete blocks with dimensions of 40 cm / 20 cm / 20 cm - or it can be monolithically reinforced.

The phased construction of the foundation of a Russian stove is as follows:

• Proper digging of a pit for the foundation of the furnace with dimensions corresponding to the size of the furnace base, adding a margin of 20 cm on each side;
• The filter pad, necessary for the proper functioning of the furnace, is created by placing a layer of wet sand at the bottom of the pit. The sand is compacted until it stops settling;
• Three sequentially compacted layers are laid on top of it - crushed stones and medium-sized pieces of broken brick, a thin layer of sand. The entire cushion is covered with a 10-centimeter horizon of crushed stone, which is also compacted as strongly as possible.
• Crushed stone must be covered with a layer of waterproofing consisting of tarpaulin or roofing felt;
• Plywood formwork is installed in the foundation pit itself. Here, a “spare” distance between the formwork and the foundation pit, about 10 cm wide, is useful. To prevent wood or plywood from drawing moisture out of the solution, the boards are moistened and reinforced with supports;
• 5 cm of cement mortar is poured into the formwork, and when it dries, a metal mesh is knitted under strict geometric evenness. In this case, the ends of the rods should not reach 1–2 cm from the formwork;
• A standard concrete solution is mixed, which includes cement, sand and crushed stone in proportions 1: 3: 5 - in several layers. Each layer is compacted using a vibrating press or manually. Here, ideal evenness of the pouring is required, checked and controlled according to the building level, on which the durability of the future furnace depends.
• The poured stove foundation is covered with a layer of waterproofing and left until completely dry.

The next stage is the most difficult process of constructing a Russian stove with a stove bench - specific row masonry. It can be easily handled by a professional stove maker, but a novice builder may encounter certain difficulties, so it is worth briefly considering all levels of brickwork.

Laying out the first row is the most critical stage in the construction of the stove; the stability and strength of the future structure depend on it. The laying of trenches - double-row brick walls - occurs at small intervals under the continuous control of the building level. The second row is laid out in the same way, and in the next - third - the blower door is installed.

The fourth row is laid in the same way as the third, observing the correct bandaging of the seams - on this row the level of the masonry is compared with the height of the door. Three doors used for cleaning the oven are also installed here.

In the fifth row, the ash door is closed, and the horizontal channels of the firebox and lining are laid. The next row also involves the construction of the lining; the level of the masonry is compared with the height of the cleaning doors. Now the grate is being installed.

Actually, the construction of the lining continues until the thirteenth row. On the seventh row, lowering, lifting and blind channels (caps) are created. In the 10-11th row, the installation of the combustion chamber door occurs and overlaps. Four channels are also formed here for air suction, the hilo and its blind channel.

On the 12th row, the lining begins to form a vault, the formation of the firebox continues, and the blind channels are closed and the suction channels are blocked.

Row 13 finally blocks all channels and the fuel chamber.

The 14th row continues to create an overlap, the 15th row forms an entrance vertical channel, and a side is arranged. From rows 16 to 20, a vertical chimney pipe is assembled; on row 21, a damper is installed.

Now you should familiarize yourself with good tips on how to build a stove with a stove bench with your own hands.

• An indispensable element of a Russian stove are dampers, which ensure its operation in winter and summer.
• Due to instability to high temperatures, cement mortars are not used in the furnace masonry. The bricks are placed on a clay mortar.
• The doors are mounted on a wire that is installed during the bricklaying process and wrapped at the ends.
• It is the caps that are created under the bed that maintain the temperature of the horizontal surface longer. It is created at a height of about 90 cm from the floor.
• In the construction of a Russian stove, only wood is used to guarantee its durability and strength.

Such a stove has promise and may be in demand for country houses. The fact is that there are many who like to “warm the bones” on a stove bench, and building a Russian stove from a stove stove is quite expensive, since the Russian stove is too large and has low efficiency. Yes, and now there are not many people who want to use it as a cooker (even a “Swedish” stove is considered by many only as a backup - if the electricity suddenly turns off or gas is not supplied). In addition, on a warm bed you can not only sleep and warm up, but also dry vegetables, herbs and other gifts from the forest and garden.

Oven dimensions

The dimensions of the bed are 178.5x63.8 cm. The area of ​​the heated room is up to 35 m1
General view of the oven is shown in Fig. 2.

Furnace location

The most convenient location for the stove is in the opening of the partition between the room and the kitchen.

Description of the furnace design

The stove has summer and winter firing modes. The diagram of the movement of flue gases is shown in sections of the furnace (Fig. 3). During a summer fire, both valves are open and the flue gases from the firebox, passing under the stove and heating it, go directly into the pipe. To heat the stove bench (winter type), it is necessary to close the valve 2. The hot flue gases at the outlet of their heat 19. change direction and rush through the horizontal chimneys of the winter firebox 14. located at the base of the stove. Having given off heat to the base of the stove and the stove bench, through window 17 the flue gases enter the vertical chimneys 15, and then through window 18 into the chimney.

The walls of the firebox and parts of the chimneys closest to it are lined or lined with fireclay bricks.

The length of the chimneys in the stove is increased compared to a regular Swede due to the horizontal passages of the stove, so an oven is not installed here, which unnecessarily increases heat transfer, and chimneys are not installed in a niche above the cooking chamber.

The oven has a small two-burner stove measuring 31x63 cm.

The stove's chimneys consist of two successive hoods, separated by partitions into four parts. They are covered with three rows of masonry.

Furnace laying

In the doorway on the 8th. In the 9th and 10th rows, the furnace door is installed - the most unstable part of the stove. Due to constant opening and closing, it becomes loose and eventually falls out of the opening. Fastening it with wire or clamps is unreliable and short-lived, which is why the door often has to be refastened by dismantling the brickwork of the stove.

Reception of fastening the combustion door. To do this, cut out two plates of roofing iron or stainless steel, 500-550 mm long and 50-55 mm wide. The edges of the 120-150 mm plates are often pierced with a nail. One plate is attached with two 06 mm bolts to the bottom of the door, the other to the top, and the edges are walled up in the brickwork. A door fixed in this way will serve for a long time and reliably, which has been tested in practice.

A firebox is arranged from the grate to the hob. The depth of the firebox from the door to the back wall is 43 cm. The width is 51 cm. Too deep and wide a firebox leads to unreasonably high consumption of firewood, premature wear of the stove and a decrease in its efficiency. The height of the firebox from the grate to the stove is 42 cm. In a current firebox, the firewood burns weakly, the temperature does not rise to the values ​​​​necessary for complete combustion of the fuel. The top of the flame, in which the soot should burn, rests on the hob and the temperature in it drops. Because of this, incomplete combustion of the fuel occurs, the efficiency of the furnace decreases, and soot deposition in the chimneys increases.
The distance between the hob and the fire door is two rows of brickwork. With a smaller distance, the bricks above the fire door become loose prematurely, and replacing them is an extremely labor-intensive job.

On the 12th row a cast iron hob is installed. It is the hottest metal part in the oven. Therefore, the temperature gaps between it and the brickwork must be left at least 10 mm.

In order to install the hob evenly and securely, first lay out the 12th row without mortar. Place the slab in its place and outline it along the contour. After removing the slab, quarters are cut out on the bricks using a grinder and a row is laid on the mortar. The slab is placed on a thick solution in quarters, then the level is tapped with a rubber mallet until it reaches the working position. The stove is placed so that if it fails, it can be removed and another one installed.
The installation of the hob completes the installation of the most complex parts of the oven. Further laying does not present any particular difficulties. Following the procedures, it is easy for the stove maker to complete the entire laying of the stove.

Completion of masonry and drying of the oven

After finishing the masonry, the stove must be dried before use. Dry the stove in two stages: first, by natural drying for one to two weeks with the smoke dampers, furnace and ash doors open, and with the doors of the house open. (In damp, cold weather, the stove chimneys can be dried with warm air from an electric heater) Then the stove is dried by fire drying, also for one to two weeks. In this case, the stove is heated in the morning and evening with small armfuls of finely chopped dry firewood - 4-5 kg ​​each. Traditional birch firewood, which emits a lot of resin and soot, must be abandoned. It is better to burn with aspen wood or others that do not emit soot.

Oven readiness

If there is no moisture on the cold flue valves, the oven is dry. You can check the readiness of the stove for operation in a simpler and more reliable way: put crumpled newspapers in the cleaning area, and remove them after a day or two. If the oven is dry, the newspapers will be dry.
A stove that has not been dried out cannot be heated; it will be destroyed during the first fire. Even a dried stove cannot be heated intensively during the initial period of operation.
The stove will last longer if it is fired daily. If the stove has not been heated for a long time, as happens in dachas, the first fire should not be too intense.

The miracle of a country house is that its comfort is due to the special atmosphere of the smell of wood and the crackling of wood in the stove. That is why many owners of country houses invite craftsmen to install a stove in their homes. The cost of such work often exceeds 50 thousand rubles. This is quite a lot of money. At the same time, laying out a stove with your own hands is a task quite within the capabilities of many. It’s important to just read a couple of publications that cover this topic in detail and a little experience and knowledge of little oven tricks, which you can read about on our website.

Particularly popular in the past were stoves with a stove bench, on which the dry heat of the stove draws out all the bad things from a person. This is exactly the kind of stove we will build today.

Step 1 – prepare the material and workplace

A special feature of any stove is that it is made of high standard ceramic bricks (not lower than M-250). For our furnace we will need 2500 of them. It is better to take cast iron, solid cast fittings (one of the most reliable is the Finnish brand CVT). To mix the solution, we use ready-made oven mixture, packaged in bags, which can be bought at any hardware store.
Lining a stove with your own hands is a rather messy process. Therefore, when preparing a workplace, we fence off the work site from the rest of the house with plastic film.

All passages to the place where the stove is placed are fenced off with film.

Before laying the furnace, it is necessary to pour a reliable foundation. The total mass of the furnace is about 10 tons. This is a serious load on the ground. Especially if the soil in your area is clayey, then it is obvious that seasonal fluctuations will be very significant. Usually the foundation is poured in proportion to the thickness - 1 ton of the furnace - corresponds to 5 cm of reinforced concrete pad. In this case, the area of ​​the furnace foundation should be 15% larger than the main area of ​​the furnace base.

The foundation for the stove is poured in such a way that the upper edge of the foundation is 5-6 cm below the floor level. Before laying the stove, it is necessary for the foundation to stand for at least two weeks, ideally if it is set for at least a month.

Before laying the stove, it is necessary to lay out waterproofing to prevent groundwater from rising into the body of the stove.

Step 2: laying the base of the oven

Laying the foundation of the furnace is the most crucial moment. You need to lay the foundation so that there is a rectangle at the base of the oven. The only way to make it like this is to make sure that the diagonals of this figure are the same.

The distance of the masonry from the wall of the house must be at least 15 cm. Therefore, when laying the foundation, be sure to take this fact into account.

The stove order should always be at hand and in a visible place, so attach it so that it is near your workplace.

Step 3 - Laying the furnace masonry

This stove assumes such an internal structure that the place where there will be space for the stove will be heated by warm air flows from the stove. The stove will have a firebox with a hob, a heating stove, an oven and a place for stove tools. In addition, the furnace will have an additional air duct - “letnik”. Which will provide additional air flow in the warm season, to improve ignition of the stove and increase draft. On the third row we lay the vent of the fireboxes.

The furnace ducts will provide the fireboxes with a reliable flow of air, and at the same time, most of them pass under the place for the stove bench.

These air ducts under the bed will run according to the “snake” principle. The longer the duct, the higher its heat transfer. The air sucked into the hatch of the first row passes along the rear wall of the furnace and heats up, rises higher and once again passes along the rear wall of the furnace firebox and subsequently gives off its heat to the floor bricks, which play the role of a stove bench.

An example of a “correct” solution is that the squeezed out solution hangs down, but does not fall to the floor. There is no need to cut it right away, it should “wither,” as stove makers say, and only then, after about 5-10 hours, it can be cut off with a trowel or spatula. Who works with what?

Please note that the air duct is divided into two sleeves. This way the bed will warm up better. In the future, it will be united again and taken to the hatch of the upper rows.

We are raising eight rows of masonry, on the ninth it will be necessary to make an overlap over the fireboxes and on the stove bench.

Let's cover the bed. To do this, we carry out three rows of masonry “poke” by combining both air ducts and making the air duct outlet into a hatch on the rear wall. We make all the locks for creating jumpers over the view and firebox in the form of a wedge lock.”

The best assistant for a stove maker is the “rule”. The two-meter “rule” is made from a board with perfectly parallel edges. It is placed on its edge, and a building level is installed on it, and according to its readings, the horizontalness of the furnace masonry is judged.

As soon as the solution “dries,” we cut it off and do a finishing touch.

In order not to damage the masonry of the bed during work, we cover it with boards. These will be used as “scaffolding” to work on the top rows.

We raise the rows of the oven for the oven and the hob casing.

Please note that the hob must be fenced off from the wall with brickwork half a brick thick.

On each row of masonry we check the “horizontalness” of the structure.

We lift the masonry above the casing of the hob and oven. Above the oven you can make a jumper using the wedge lock method, but above the hob casing the span is almost one and a half meters, so the only way out here is to put a metal corner. More precisely, three corners. Laying over the lintel should only be done using the “poke” method.

We add a little decorativeness to the masonry - we put up shelves.

Pay attention to the three hatches for the air ducts. The “letnik” at the bottom fuels the combustion of the firebox, and in the upper rows it provides stronger convection currents of warm air, which are used to heat the house.

In the upper common rows, we need to combine the rows of chimneys together so that one chimney sleeve goes into the chimney. This can be done in three rows of masonry. Therefore, the upper casing is made of at least five rows of masonry - the first is the base, the second is the third - combining the sleeves, the fifth is the overlap. And only then we lay the base of the pipe. We lay the pipe according to the masonry formula - two and a half by two bricks. This will create a chimney opening of 300 sq.cm. When passing through a wooden ceiling, the size of the fire-prevention wiring must be at least 75*75 cm.

We use basalt slabs 50 mm thick as thermal insulation. Typically, the safe insulation thickness should be 100 mm. Thermal insulation sheets must be laid in a checkerboard pattern so that there is no “exact angle”, but a “step” lock.

It’s better to put not a standard view, but a secret one. Such views “cry” less soot onto the outer part of the masonry. The only subtlety of installing such a view is that it cannot be used without special seals and heat-resistant sealants. It is best to use a basalt cord 8 mm thick as a seal. At first, the view shutter will move with great difficulty - this is normal! It takes time for the sealant to coke and for the basalt cord to set.

We install the oven fittings - doors on the firebox, on the ash pan and in the oven. The peculiarity of this installation method is that all the mounting sockets are made in the form of grooves; fittings are placed in them and secured to metal dowels.

The fittings are installed. Pay attention to the white dowel heads; there should be at least two of them on each side of the door.

How to line a stove with your own hands. Step 4. Install the pipe.

Before starting work on the construction of the pipe, it is necessary to prepare a workplace - stove makers call it a “nest”. This is a horizontal platform onto which the brick rises.

A safe place to work is created. Exactly the amount of brick that is required to erect the pipe should rise to the roof. In our case - 200 pieces. Therefore, it is necessary to lay out the layers in such a way that the load on the roof becomes uniform.

The “nest” is ready, you can start working.

We lay the pipes with silicate bricks; they better withstand temperature changes and the effects of precipitation. At the same time, it is better adapted to the effects of an acidic environment, which is formed due to the interaction of smoke and condensation of water vapor on the walls of the chimney. To prevent sand-lime brick from standing out from the general background of the color scheme, I recommend painting it with facade acrylic paint, terracotta color.

The oven is ready, all you have to do is wait two weeks before testing the fire.

The article uses photographic materials from master stove maker A.G. Popov.