From what rust appears. Diseases of indoor plants

Diseases occur not only in indoor and garden plants, fruit trees are also susceptible to various infections. Leaf rust is one of the most common diseases. Even an adult strong tree will not be able to resist it, and even a young seedling with a fragile root system will not resist.

How does leaf rust appear?

In the initial stages of this plant disease, the leafy plate is covered with small orange specks. Over time, they grow to 1 cm or more. In this case, a dense build-up is formed on the back of the sheet (just under the stain). With an increase in the affected area, the leaves begin to curl and completely crumble.

In diseased trees, immunity is weakened, as a result of which they do not survive the winter well: adult plantings partially freeze, and the seedlings planted this season can completely freeze out. In addition, the yield decreases from year to year.

Causes of "rusty" plant disease

In most cases, plantings growing in the neighborhood become carriers of rust spores. Experienced gardeners have long noticed that pears and plums are the most susceptible to disease. From shrubs, raspberries, gooseberries and currants are often sick.

Rust fungus (the causative agent of the disease) is carried by gusts of wind, affecting all plants that it hits.

Leaf rust treatment

Affected trees need to be sprayed several times:

• in early spring before bud break - with a solution of copper sulfate at the rate of 300 g per bucket of water;
• during flowering - with Horus;
• after the end of flowering - Skor, Raek or Fitalavin.

Fallen leaves must be collected and burned.

Disease prevention

In order to protect your garden from insidious and other plants, it is necessary to inspect the plantings more often. The site should be kept clean, removing fallen leaves and weeds in time. Water should not be allowed to stagnate in the near-trunk circle after abundant watering, since this is an ideal environment for the development of fungal infections.

The best prevention of rust is to use only zoned varieties of fruit trees that are immune to rust for growing.

It is necessary to regularly carry out sanitary pruning, as well as whitewash the trunks with a mixture of lime (slaked) and preparations containing copper. In addition, it is necessary to dig up the near-trunk circle annually, after which the soil is treated alternately with urea and copper sulfate.

Methods for dealing with leaf rust in fruit trees - video

Most often, domestic plants suffer from diseases of a fungal nature and the activity of insect pests. Leaves and root system are affected first. By the characteristic signs of lesions, you can determine the cause of diseases of indoor plants and eliminate it in a timely manner.

High temperatures and high humidity are excellent breeding grounds for bacteria. For this reason, flowers should be sprayed and watered in moderation, as excess moisture increases the likelihood of the spread of pathogens.

Show all

Alternaria

Alternaria refers to diseases of a fungal nature, in which the leaves, tubers and stems of the plant are covered with brown spots. The causative agents are fungi of the genus Alternaria. The disease first affects the lower leaves, and then the lesion rises higher in concentric circles. Over time, the spots turn black and grow. Alternaria especially progresses with sudden changes in temperature.

The best environment for the development of microorganisms is a warm and damp microclimate, when the humidity in the room is 90%, and the temperature is + 30 ° C.

Prevention of such a disease is good ventilation. Ventilation helps fight mold. Also, a high density of shoots should not be allowed in order to exclude the source of bacteria: excess branches with leaves should be removed in a timely manner.



Anthracnose

The disease is caused by deuteromycetes of the genera Gloeosporium, Colletotrichum, Kabatiella. The spots on the affected leaves can have a different shade: sometimes they are gray-yellow, in other cases, brown or purple. Growing up, the spots acquire a brown tint. Spores are formed on them, which appear in the form of hairs. In these places, the surface of the sheet is rough.

The fungus is frost resistant and spreads with watering. It develops at high humidity and high temperatures.

In the initial stages of the disease, affected leaves are removed, watering of the plant is reduced in order to reduce moisture. Plants are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, and Strobi fungicide.



Ascochitosis

Phytopathology is accompanied by the appearance of small brown spots 1-2 mm in diameter on the leaves. Growing up, they darken, a yellow border forms along the edge of the spot. When the disease affects the stem, it fractures at the site of infection. The first signs of the disease appear in the form of drying of the tips of the leaves. On the border with the healthy part, a darkened, brown stripe appears.

The fungus - the pathogen is very resistant, withstands frost and drought well. Transferred with water droplets when spraying. Control measures are the same as for anthracnose.



Downy mildew

The disease is provoked by the activity of fungi - oomycetes. At the initial stage of the disease, yellow spots of irregular configuration appear on the upper part of the leaf plate. Over time, they turn brown and then turn brown. A gray bloom appears on the lower half of the leaf, which then turns black. Diseased leaves gather in corrugations, turn yellow and fall off. In the later stages, the disease affects the vascular system of the plant. On a cut, this manifests itself in the form of darkened vessels.

The ideal conditions for the development of phytopathology are:

• high acidity of the soil substrate;
• high humidity;
• limited access to fresh air, poor ventilation of the room.

The source of the disease is poor disinfection of seeds and soil. In order to prevent the seeds before planting, they are kept in water at a temperature of + 50 ° C for 20 minutes. Warm seeds are dipped in cold water for 3 minutes and then air dried.

The room maintains a low humidity. Bushes require constant thinning to improve air access. In order to disinfect, the soil must be changed periodically.

When the disease has spread to the plant, the infected leaves and side branches are removed. Spraying is carried out with Bordeaux liquid, Bravo or Quadris preparations. If the soil is already infected, then spraying is excluded.

To avoid powdery mildew, houseplants should not be fertilized with nitrogen fertilizers, especially when budding is in progress. Since spores can easily travel a considerable distance, bacteria can be brought in from the trees outside the window. The development of the disease is affected by a lack of air, but drafts are also contraindicated. The affected buds can be treated with sulfur, milk whey or milk.

Rust on the leaves

With this disease, rusty spots appear on the leaves. If you rub them in your hand, a powder is formed. This disease also belongs to fungal. It appears as a result of abundant watering, lack of sufficient lighting and lack of fresh air.

Sometimes the disease enters the ground along with the seeds. It is impossible to recognize it in advance, therefore, before planting, the soil and seed are treated with potassium permanganate. Fungus spores can be carried in by the wind if the flowerpot is on the window. Therefore, in the spring, all plants should be treated with a Bordeaux mixture for prevention purposes. If only a small part of the leaves has become rusty, they should be removed.

Rust stains can be caused by improper dosage of fertilizers. If the soil substrate has not changed for a long time, the soil should be completely replaced.

Gray rot

Fungal disease caused by the activity of conidia and sclerotia in dead plant areas. First, the stem is affected, which is covered with a grayish-olive bloom. Later, the disease spreads to leaves and flowers.

Such pests can be:

• Aphid. An insect that sucks sap from plant tissues.
• Cyclamen mite. It sticks to the surface of the leaves, a large accumulation of mites looks like dust.
• Nematode. It is difficult to deal with these pests, but they rarely affect indoor flowers.
• Mealybug. It is a small beetle covered in fluff.
• Shield. It is protected by a wax shield, so the preparations have no effect on the insect.
• Grape elephant. A beetle that feeds on leaves.
• Caterpillars. Indoor plants are rarely affected.

The maintenance of indoor plants requires constant care and maintaining the right climatic conditions. You need to monitor the main factors: humidity and air temperature in the room. A sharp drop or increase in these indicators should not be allowed. It is necessary to change the soil more often and check its acidity. This way you can avoid damage to indoor plants by fungal diseases and pests.

The spots that appear on the leaves of the apple tree - signal for the gardener... This is how fungal and infectious diseases manifest themselves.

One of the most common is rust.

Noticing red marks, novice summer residents often ignore the first symptoms of defeat. And you only need to find rust on the leaves of the apple tree, look for a solution to how to deal with it.

If you do not prevent the development of the disease, you cannot count on a healthy harvest. The apples will grow small, tasteless, often rotten.

To regularly harvest large, juicy fruits, you should recognize the disease at the initial stage, apply the correct method of treatment and observe preventive measures, and not at the last moment wonder what to do when they find that the leaves of the apple tree are rusting?

Signs of rust damage

Signs of rust.

Rust symptoms become noticeable when the leaves are dissolved. This happens in late spring - early summer. First, small yellow-green dots of different sizes appear.

In severe cases, the lesion spreads to the shoots and bark.

As soon as rust appears on the apple tree, treatment should be started immediately, at the first signs of infection.

Apple orchard processing scheme

Important! If in the previous season the apple tree was sick with rust, you should start processing the tree in early spring, even before the growing season.

Spraying.

Treatment scheme:

1. First processing falls in early spring, when the buds have just begun to bloom;
2. The second is carried out before flowering, during the budding period or after flowering, when the fruits have appeared, but have not yet begun to pour;
3. Third treatment carried out 10-14 days after the second.

To defeat the disease, in addition to spraying with antimicrobial drugs, it is necessary to create conditions that prevent the appearance of the fungus.

Rusty leaves on an apple tree - what to do? Treatment and prevention methods

To get rid of from the disease, a system of treatments and preventive measures is required. By eliminating the sources of infection, you can permanently rid the apple orchard of rust.

Infection control work should be carried out in several areas:

Improvement of the orchard

Fungal infections primarily damaged weakened trees. For the apple tree's immune system to be strong, you need:

• Rare fruit trees;
• Right ;
• Timely and competent feeding;
• and culture of sanitization;
• Healthy planting material.

High planting density stimulates rapid spread of the disease.

The optimum conditions for the development of the fungus are created by high humidity, so you should not be zealous with watering. If it rains continuously, the risk of infection of the apple trees increases.

A daily inspection for rust on the apple tree is necessary in order to have time to make a decision on how to fight.

The tree must receive the nutrients that it needs at every stage of development.

If rusty spots are found on the leaves of the apple tree, the application of nitrogen to the soil should be reduced, and the dose of phosphorus and potassium should be increased.

In early spring and autumn, after harvest, you need to carry out sanitary apple trees.

Shoots and areas of the bark damaged by rust are cut out, and the sections are cleaned.

Affected places treated with a solution of copper or iron sulfate (4-5%), covered with garden putty.

Apple tree trunks must be exposed in spring and autumn. In case of rust, copper-containing preparations and an adhesive (for example, green soap) are added to the garden whitewash.

New apple and juniper seedlings should be carefully examined.

The latter are often brought from abroad already infected.

Destruction of fungus colonies

Rust on the juniper.

The bias towards the design of summer cottages with evergreen shrubs contributed to the ubiquitous spread of the fungus.

Rust pathogens settle on conifers and shrubs. For an apple tree, it is dangerous to be close to an ordinary juniper. Plants cannot be planted nearby.

Colonies form in juniper skeletal branches. The shoots are thickened, deformed along the entire length. With prolonged exposure to infection, they dry up and die off.

Myceliums do not live on apple trees, the main disputes cause damagecarried by insects or wind.

When rust fungi appear, it is necessary to carefully examine the junipers planted in the immediate vicinity.

Finding colonies pathogen, coniferous shrubs should be treated with a fungicide, cut and burn damaged branches. In case of severe damage to the needles, it is better to destroy the junipers, dig up the ground under it, treat with boiling water and antimicrobial drugs.

Important!: Regular maintenance of junipers will prevent infestation of fruit trees.

In the literature on gardening, there is often a recommendation to remove all coniferous shrubs from the site in order to protect the orchard.

Rust spores can be carried by the wind to a distance of 50 km, so the complete absence of junipers on the site is unlikely to prevent disease.

If the decision to get rid of conifers is made, you should create barriers along the perimeter of the site. For this purpose, tall trees with a dense crown are used.

Destruction of spores and the consequences of infection

To avoid the development or renewal of rust infection on the apple tree, proceed tocomplete elimination of disputes.

Apple trees must be sprayed with antifungal drugs.

The site must be clean from weeds. Many of them are able to become intermediate hosts of rust fungi, such as sedge, anemone, and spurge.

But the presence of bitter wormwood close to sources of infection and spread of the disease affects the development of rust negatively.

Plant residues allow the pathogen to remain on the site for up to 8 years. Affected apple leaves juniper needles and pruned branches must be cleaned up and burned.

Dig up the trunk circles deeply, spill with urea (5-7%), ammonium nitrate (5-7%) and copper sulfate (4-5%). The drugs should be alternated.

Treatments for rust on apple leaves

To fight with rust, preparations based on sulfur, copper and systemic fungicides are used.

Copper preparations

Spraying with Bordeaux liquid is carried out from rust. Apply a 1% solution. Spring treatments can only be started after as the temperature reaches positive values.

Do not use the solution for treatments in hot weather, at high temperatures.

If these conditions are not followed, apple trees may get burned.

• Blue Bordeaux - analogue of Bordeaux mixture, in the form of granules. Easily soluble in water. Contact agent causing damage to colonies and spores on infected plants. Suitable for handling in bad weather.
• Abiga Peak - a copper-containing preparation related to contact fungicides. Contains an adhesive, is applied superficially, does not penetrate into wood tissue. Treatments can only be carried out in dry weather. To prepare a solution, 50 grams of the drug is dissolved in a bucket of water.
• Cuproxat - a product based on copper acetate with a nitrogen content. A 0.25% solution effectively destroys fungal spores. Suitable for root watering. Possesses the properties of fungicide and mineral fertilizing at the same time.
• Champion more often it is used not for treatment, but for the prevention of the disease. The drug forms a protective film on the plant, prevents infection. On diseased trees, the Champion stops the development of infection, but has no destructive effect. 60 g for a bucket of water. Not applicable at temperatures above 25 degrees.

Sulfur based products

Removes rust quickly and effectively colloidal sulfur solution.

To prepare it, use 40 g of powder per 5 liters of water.

The remedy works when it comes into contact with an infection. During flowering, apple trees cannot be processed.

Colloidal sulfur.

The drug has the same effect Cumulus - colloidal sulfur in a convenient form. The product is non-dusty and easily soluble in water.

Fungicides are the main answer to the question: "How to treat rust on an apple tree?"

Good results in the fight against rust give contact and systemic contact fungicides, such as:

• "Stroby"
• "Topaz"
• Poliram
• Tsineba
• Vectra

The actions of the drugs are similar, but the active ingredients are different. This allows you to alternate their application, avoid addictive disputes to one remedy.

Amount of substance per bucket of water:

• Stroby - 2-3 g.
• Topaz - 2 ml.
• Poliram - 1.5 - 2.5 g.
• Tsineba - 40 g.
• Vectra - 2-3 g.

Now you have learned what to do if the leaves of the apple tree rust.

Important!: If at the time of rust damage the apple trees were treated for other fungal infections (for example, from scab), a separate spraying is not required.

Useful videos

Watch a video about rust on fruit trees and bushes:

Watch the video for information about rust on fruit trees:

See useful information about diseases of fruit trees:

Watch the video on how to properly apply copper sulfate and select dosages:

A competent approach to agricultural technology, careful observation of the garden and timely processing of trees will help get rid of many diseases of the apple tree. Rust on the leaves of the apple tree will bypass you, and you will not need to decide how to deal with it.

In contact with

Leaf rust of plant leaves is caused by various representatives of rust fungi belonging to the subclass Heterobasidiomycetes. A characteristic sign of the determination of rust on the leaves is the appearance on the plant of pustules of various shapes and sizes, which crack over time, and the so-called "rusty powder" pours out of them - these are spores of a rust fungus.

Some of these pathogenic fungi are single-owner, that is, they have only one owner - the plant on which they settled, and only on it does their development cycle take place.

Some of the pathogenic rust fungi are called diversified, since the fungus develops on two plants. Carriers, or as they are also called, intermediate plants can be the most common weeds.

Leaf rust is common on outdoor garden plants, but indoor plants are not immune to it either. Different types of fungi can cause this disease. Rust affects cereal crops (wheat, rye), agricultural industrial crops, wild herbs, and many forest and garden ornamental crops. Among them are conifers, which have recently gained popularity among our gardeners, fruit trees, currants, hydrangeas, roses, stock roses, lilies, lilies of the valley, irises and some other plants. Among indoor flowering plants, cyclamen, chrysanthemum, fuchsia, pelargonium, and carnation are susceptible to rust.

Signs of rust on plants

When visually inspecting plants, always pay attention to the leaves. Any rust-colored stains on the leaves should alert you.

Rust can appear on leaves, shoots, buds and flowers: first, yellow or orange bumps form on the surface of leaves or other parts of the plant. This is the spring stage of the rust fungus. Over time, cracks and deep ulcers form in this place. In the middle of summer, spots (pustules) with orange dusty spores appear on the underside of the leaves. These spores of the fungus are ripe and dusty. This is already the second stage of development of rust fungi. Rusty spots on the upper side of the leaf, small at first, gradually grow and cover its entire surface. The shoots of plants in the place of rust damage thicken, deform and crack.

At the beginning of autumn, the pustules darken, the third stage of the fungus develops, in this form the rust fungus hibernates in the affected stems and fruits. The last two stages can lead to a decrease in growth, premature drying of leaves, weakening of plants, and in severe cases - to the death of plants.

The development of rust on plants is facilitated by high humidity in spring, at the very beginning of the growing season, too much crowding of plants, which interferes with the rapid drying of plants.

An excess of nitrogen fertilizers also contributes to the appearance of rust on plant leaves.

Examples of the development of rust in some plants

Many garden plants are susceptible to this disease. Only the pathogens for each plant family are different.

Iris. The rust agent is very active in damaging the leaves. Many brown pustules appear on the leaves, protruding from the epidermis. Leaves turn yellow and dry out prematurely.

If they are not removed in time, velvety convex black stripes, covered with epidermis, will appear on the dead leaves closer to autumn. This means that the pathogen fungus has passed into the wintering stage.

Our favorite bulbs, such as tulip, hyacinth, lily, can also rust. Initially, small discolored areas can be observed on the leaves, as the disease progresses, these areas on the leaves begin to turn yellow. Brown spores form under the epidermis on the leaves and even on the inner scales of the bulbs. Rust-affected leaves of bulbous plants dry out prematurely and disappear, in the future, the plant is greatly inhibited in growth, flowering is noticeably deteriorating or the plant does not bloom at all. The causative agent of rust overwinters both in the scales of the bulbs and on undestroyed plant debris.

Plants of the Clove family.

In the first half of summer, brown pustules are formed on the affected leaves and stems, covered by the epidermis. Gradually matured pustules rupture, the plant is strongly oppressed in growth, the leaves dry out. In the fall, dark brown pustules can be seen on dead leaves, which means that the pathogen has passed into the winter stage.

A similar picture can be observed in plants of the Asteraceae family. In the affected plants, leaves and shoots dry out and die. Sporulation occurs in summer on the underside of the leaves. In autumn, the pathogen fungus hibernates in flat orange pads on the affected leaves.

When infected with rust, rounded or oblong yellow spots can be seen on the leaves of the lily of the valley. Opposite these spots, on the underside of the leaves, over time, closely packed cylindrical, whitish pustules with curved inward edges develop.

However, there is also white rust. It affects pelargonium, fuchsia, palms, cruciferous plants. With white rust, all aerial parts of the plant are damaged in spring and early summer in damp cool weather.

The affected areas of plants are covered with white pustules, then bend or swell strongly from the large number of white rust spores formed under the epidermis.

Leaf rust control measures

As mentioned above, the development and spread of rust is promoted by damp, cool weather in spring and early summer, strong overcrowding of plants, and an excess of nitrogen fertilizers.

1. Follow the rules for planting plants, do not try to stick five plants on one square decimeter of area.

2. Weed regularly; they can carry rust fungi.

3. Do not get carried away with nitrogen fertilizers in the spring. Feed the plants with phosphorus-potassium or complex mineral fertilizers, in which the content of the main elements has already been calculated. Healthy plants are less sick.

4. When watering, try not to pour water on the leaves. Water the plants only with settled water, warmed up in the sun for a day.

5. Carry out timely treatment with fungicide preparations with contact and systemic activity, such as Topaz, Ordan, Folikur, Falcon.

6. As a prophylaxis, in early spring before regrowth, spray with Bordeaux or Burgundy liquid, iron sulfate.

6. In autumn, remove plant debris and fallen leaves. Rust pathogens can hibernate on them.

Plant rust - signs of disease and how to deal with it

The spots that appear on the leaves of the apple tree - signal for the gardener... This is how fungal and infectious diseases manifest themselves.

One of the most common is rust.

Noticing red marks, novice summer residents often ignore the first symptoms of the lesion, instead of looking for a solution to how to deal with it as soon as they find rust on the leaves of the apple tree.

Noticed rusty spots on the leaves of the apple tree? How to Treat and Prevent?

If you do not prevent the development of the disease, you can not count on a healthy harvest. The apples will grow small, not tasty, often rotten.

To regularly harvest large, juicy fruits, you should to recognize the disease at the initial stage, apply the correct method of treatment and observe preventive measures, and not at the last moment wonder when they discovered that the leaves of the apple tree are rusting - "What to do?"

Signs of rust damage

Rust symptoms become noticeable when the leaves are dissolved. This happens in late spring - early summer. First, small yellow-green dots of different sizes appear.

In severe cases, the lesion spreads to the shoots and bark.

As soon as rust appears on the apple tree, treatment should be started immediately, at the first signs of infection.

Apple orchard processing scheme

Spraying apple trees in case of rust damage occurs in several stages.

At least three treatments must be done per year.

Important!: If in the previous season the apple tree was sick with rust, you should start processing the tree in early spring, even before the growing season.

Treatment scheme:

1. First processing falls in early spring, when the buds have just begun to bloom;
2. The second is carried out before flowering, during the budding period or after flowering, when fruits have appeared, but have not yet begun to fill;
3. Third treatment carried out 10-14 days after the second.

To defeat the disease, in addition to spraying with antimicrobial drugs, fruit trees need to create conditions that prevent the appearance of a fungus.

Rusty leaves on an apple tree - what to do?

Treatment and prevention methods

To get rid of from the disease, a system of treatments and preventive measures is required. By eliminating the sources of infection, you can permanently rid the apple orchard of rust.

Infection control work should be carried out in several areas:

Improvement of the orchard

Fungal infections first of all are damaged weakened trees. For the apple tree's immune system to be strong, you need:

• rare planting of fruit trees;
• correct watering;
• timely and competent feeding;
• care and culture of sanitization;
• healthy planting material.

High planting density stimulates rapid spread of the disease.

The optimum conditions for the development of the fungus are created by high humidity, so you should not be zealous with watering. If it rains continuously, the risk of infection of the apple trees increases.

A daily inspection for rust on the apple tree is necessary and time to decide how to deal.

The tree must receive the nutrients that it needs at every stage of development.

If rusty spots are found on the leaves of the apple tree, the application of nitrogen to the soil should be reduced, and the dose of phosphorus and potassium should be increased.

In early spring and autumn, after harvesting, you need to carry out sanitary pruning of apple trees.

Shoots and areas of the bark damaged by rust are cut out, and the sections are cleaned.

Affected places treated with a solution of copper or iron sulfate (4-5%), covered with garden putty.

Apple tree trunks in spring and autumn must be whitewashed. In case of rust, copper-containing preparations and an adhesive (for example, green soap) are added to the garden whitewash.

New apple and juniper seedlings should be carefully examined.

The latter are often brought from abroad already infected.

Destruction of fungus colonies

The bias towards the design of summer cottages with evergreen shrubs contributed to the ubiquitous spread of the fungus.

Rust pathogens settle on conifers and shrubs. For an apple tree, it is dangerous to be close to an ordinary juniper. Plants cannot be planted nearby.

Colonies form in juniper skeletal branches.

What to do if rusty spots appear on the leaves of the apple tree, how to treat it? Agronomist tips

The shoots are thickened, deformed along the entire length. With prolonged exposure to infection, they dry up and die off.

Myceliums do not live on apple trees, the main disputes cause damagecarried by insects or wind.

When rust fungi appear, it is necessary to carefully examine the junipers planted in the immediate vicinity of the apple trees.

Finding colonies pathogen, coniferous shrubs should be treated with a fungicide, cut and burn damaged branches. In case of severe damage to the needles, it is better to destroy the junipers, dig up the ground under it, treat with boiling water

and antimicrobial drugs.

Important!: Regular maintenance of junipers will prevent infestation of fruit trees.

In the literature on gardening, there is often a recommendation to remove all coniferous shrubs from the site in order to protect the orchard.

Rust spores can be carried by the wind to a distance of 50 km, so the complete absence of junipers on the site is unlikely to protect against disease.

If the decision to get rid of conifers is made, you should create barriers along the perimeter of the site. For this purpose, tall trees with a dense crown are used.

Destruction of spores and the consequences of infection

To avoid the development or re-emergence of rust infection on the apple tree - it is possible with the help of measures that contribute to the complete destruction of spores.

Apple trees must be sprayed with antifungal drugs.

The site must be clean from weeds.

Many of them are able to become intermediate hosts of rust fungi, such as sedge, anemone, and spurge.

But the presence of bitter wormwood close to sources of infection and spread of the disease affects the development of rust negatively.

Plant residues allow the pathogen to remain on the site for up to 8 years. Affected apple leaves juniper needles and pruned branches must be cleaned up and burned.

Dig up the trunk circles deeply, spill with urea (5-7%), ammonium nitrate (5-7%) and copper sulfate (4-5%). The drugs should be alternated.

Treatments for rust on apple leaves

To fight with rust, preparations based on sulfur, copper and systemic fungicides are used.

Copper preparations

Spraying with Bordeaux liquid is carried out from rust. Apply a 1% solution. Spring treatments can only be started after as the temperature reaches positive values.

Do not use the solution for treatments in hot weather, at high temperatures.

If these conditions are not followed, apple trees may get burned.

• Blue Bordeaux - analogue of Bordeaux mixture, in the form of granules. Easily soluble in water. Contact agent causing damage to colonies and spores on infected plants. Suitable for handling in bad weather.
• Abiga Peak - a copper-containing preparation related to contact fungicides. Contains an adhesive, is applied superficially, does not penetrate into wood tissue. Treatments can only be carried out in dry weather. To prepare a solution, 50 grams of the drug is dissolved in a bucket of water.
• Cuproxat - a product based on copper acetate with a nitrogen content. A 0.25% solution effectively destroys fungal spores. Suitable for root watering. Possesses the properties of fungicide and mineral fertilizing at the same time.
• Champion more often it is used not for treatment, but for the prevention of the disease. The drug forms a protective film on the plant, prevents infection. On diseased trees, the Champion stops the development of infection, but has no destructive effect. 60 g for a bucket of water. Not applicable at temperatures above 25 degrees.

Sulfur based products

Removes rust quickly and effectively colloidal sulfur solution.

To prepare it, use 40 g of powder per 5 liters of water.

The remedy works when it comes into contact with an infection. During flowering, apple trees cannot be processed.

The drug has the same effect Cumulus - colloidal sulfur in a convenient form. The product is non-dusty and easily soluble in water.

Fungicides are the main answer to the question: - "How to treat rust on an apple tree?"

Good results in the fight against rust give contact and systemic contact fungicides, such as:

• "Stroby"
• "Topaz"
• Poliram
• Tsineba
• Vectra

The actions of the drugs are similar, but the active ingredients are different. This allows you to alternate their application, avoid addictive disputes to one remedy.

Amount of substance per bucket of water:

• Stroby - 2-3 g.
• Topaz - 2 ml.
• Poliram - 1.5 - 2.5 g.
• Tsineba - 40 g.
• Vectra - 2-3 g.

When preparing a spray solution, the leaves of the apple tree rust, what to do in this case.

Important!: If at the time of rust damage the apple trees were treated for other fungal infections (for example, from scab), a separate spraying is not required.

Useful videos

See useful information about diseases of fruit trees:

Watch the video for information about rust on fruit trees:

Watch the video on how to properly apply copper sulfate and select dosages:

Watch the video on how to properly get rid of infected branches:

A competent approach to agricultural technology, careful observation of the garden and timely processing of trees will help get rid of many diseases of the apple tree. Rust on the leaves of the apple tree will bypass you, you will not need to decide how to fight.

Ominous brown fender stain, paint bubble at the bottom of the door, suddenly wet after driving through a large puddle - all these are clear signs that such a slow killer as rust has begun to grind your car.

Rust. Many people underestimate her. Many do not know that it is this seemingly frivolous disaster that regularly sends tens of thousands of cars to the landfill. But the problem is preventable, and you can and should fight it!

With iron-based metals, fighting oxidation can be a Sisyphean labor, because even with advanced coatings and alloys developed by professional chemists and engineers, unstable chemical composition steel in its original form means that it will always rust in its natural environment. However, this does not mean that your car is doomed. By understanding the metal oxidation process and knowing the problem areas on the body of your car, you can extend the life of your car.

Is it possible to avoid meeting with rust?

At the same time, untreated raw sheet steel can resist rusting for a very long time, without falling apart for several years.

From here we can draw the first conclusion: if you buy a car (even if it is a new model and you take the car from the salon), be sure to go over the forums and look if these car models of a particular year of production rust. Otherwise, you may be very unlucky and you will find yourself on some batch of cars in which, for some unknown reason, steel of inadequate quality was used. As you can imagine, such cars will rot. Such cases are rare, but they do happen. Therefore, be careful.

So you became the owner or have been the owner of a car for a long time. If you have purchased a new car and expect to use it for a long period of time - from five years or more, congratulations, you have a chance to see all the stages of the development of body destruction.

Let's look at the three main types of rust and then discuss how it can be avoided or "cured".

Surface rust (first stage)

The first signs of the problem appear in cracks and scratches in the paint. Level of difficulty: easy to fix.

Rust hunts for structural and chemical impurities in metal alloys at the microscopic and molecular levels. Pure iron does not oxidize as aggressively as cheaper material with a lot of impurities. It's easy to understand when you look at old parts from premium German cars from the 70s and 80s. Even unpainted elements, being outdoors, in rain and snow, although over time they will be covered with rust, the penetration of oxidation will not be as deep as in the case of cars of the 90s and 00s of the XXI century.

The point is, as you understand, that higher quality alloys were used, which helped to lay greater wear resistance in all parts of the car, including the body.

Unfortunately, iron isn't a particularly good material for making cars. The addition of a small amount of carbon to the iron creates a steel that offers significant improvements in panel flexibility, tensile strength, and formability. But by definition it adds impurities - impurities that accelerate the rusting process.

Second stage (penetration into the metal structure begins)

The chemical process destroys the surface and reduces the strength of the metal.

The spread of rust deep into the steel depends on a variety of factors:

alloy, part thickness, environment (presence of snow, reagents that accelerate the decomposition process, temperature changes) and the type of part heat treatment.

Alloying elements such as nickel and chromium can be added to prevent rusting, but nothing can 100% protect the part - everything will eventually corrode.

The reagent is a separate topic altogether. The rusting effect is accelerated by the presence of any kind of salt. Salts from the road and other pollutants dissolved in the water act as electrolytes. Getting to an unprotected place where a chemical reaction takes place, they significantly accelerate the exchange of molecular components.

In practice, we can say the following: a dirty car rusts faster than a clean one. It also explains the long-noted fact why cars in northern climates, where salt and chemicals are used in winter, tend to rot.

Penetrating rust (third stage)

After prolonged exposure to the oxidation process, steel turns into brittle iron oxide. Through holes are formed.

Automakers are doing a lot to try and prevent corrosion. A huge number of tests and entire sections of materials science are devoted to preserving the body of your car. The aluminum and magnesium components are very helpful in fighting rust. They are practically not subject to oxidation, and their safety factor will last for decades to come. However, these metals are expensive enough to be used for a part as large as the body.

Even at the stage of its production at a steel mill, modern sheet steel comes with a variety of protective coatings. At the car factory, additional protective coatings are added to this, including galvanizing and a thick layer of surface protection for the underbody, which literally seals the body from the elements of oxygen and the destructive environment.

Alas, over time, any is erased, thinned and in some places completely disappears. The metal is exposed, the process of destruction begins.

Advice: few do this, but it is important at least once a year, after winter, to examine a cleanly washed (ideally, the bottom should also be washed) car for damage to the protective layer. In the event that a chip or deep scratch is found that has reached the metal, it will be necessary to neutralize the damage by stopping air access to the damaged part of the surface.

Depending on the depth and location of damage for these purposes, it is possible to use a primer followed by applying paint (with slight damage), a rust converter, sealing the hearth from oxygen, applying an anticorrosive agent on the bottom if the protective layer below has been damaged in several places. With average operation, its damage occurs after three years.

Vigilance and car care are the key to long-term body work.

Prevention

The best advice is the most obvious: Wash your car regularly to clean the body and underbody (at least once a year, after winter) from dirt and salts that lead to corrosion. Not so obvious advice - at the bottom of the doors and sills. If water stagnates there, it will lead to inevitable rusting.

But if rust does appear, this is not such a big problem. The point is that rusting can be stopped at any stage.

Surface rust

In most cases, surface rust is formed at the point of paint fracture due to mechanical or ultraviolet damage. The first stage of rusting will not pose much of a problem to your car body. Depending on the thickness of the metal and the quality of the alloy, it may take more than one year to reach the third stage.

Regardless, it is best to get rid of surface rust as soon as you find it. The fix does not differ from the general paintwork repair. We wrote a lot about how to repair other damage.

Stage two

You didn't remove the rust in the first stage, and now there is a rusty bubble under the paint on the body. Rust molecules are physically larger than iron or steel. As a result, rust spreads itself by expanding, affecting and destroying fresh metal. If it is not completely removed, the decay process will not stop.

When repairing a part, you must use a rust converter, as well as a brush with stiff metal bristles, sandpaper or an abrasive disc. We clean the hearth to a flat surface, then apply a primer and paint.

Penetrating rust

Eventually, the base metal peels off and a hole forms in its place. Now you have a big problem and you have two options. You can replace the panel (if possible), or you will have to cut out the decayed parts and ask to weld on patches from normal metal.

Useful to compare (German experience):

However, if the frame is rusted, this means that the structural integrity of the vehicle may be compromised. You can't fix Rama on your own. Either change to a new one, or seek advice from professionals.