Ornamental shrubs in autumn: how to fertilize them and how to avoid freezing? How grasses, trees and shrubs overwinter. How to tie ornamental grasses.

Sections: Primary School

Target: introduce students to the characteristics of plant life in winter.

Tasks:

1. expand students’ knowledge about the life of trees, shrubs, and grasses in winter;
2. develop the ability to group, observe, draw conclusions, work with a textbook and workbook;
3. cultivate a caring attitude towards nature and interest in the surrounding world.

Equipment: textbook, notebook, magnifying glasses, poplar branches with buds.

1. Organizational moment.

Greetings.

2. Statement of the problem.

Pictures of trees, shrubs and grasses are attached to the board, temporarily closed.

Teacher asks a riddle: He breathes, grows, but cannot walk.

Children answer: Plant

Teacher. Why did they decide this?

Children. Plants breathe, grow, eat, reproduce and die.

Cards with these words appear on the board.

Teacher. What else can you say about these items?

Children. This is living nature.

Teacher. This means that the conversation will be about living nature – plants.

Pictures appear on the board.

Teacher. Look at everything carefully. What thoughts did you have? What work do you propose to do?

Children. Can be divided into groups.

Teacher. Which ones, and how to determine them?

Children. One group is trees, they have one trunk and it is thick. The other is shrubs, they have several trunks. There are grasses left, their stems are thin, they are not always visible from under the snow.

Children go to the board, select groups and name the plants.

A game of attention.

Trees - we clap, bushes - we stomp, grass - we jump.

Teacher. Do you want to know what happens to plants in winter?

Children. Yes.

3. Work on the topic of the lesson.

Teacher. Where did we observe the plants?

Children. On an excursion in the winter forest.

Teacher. What can you say about trees?

Children. Deciduous trees stand without leaves. There are fruits on the rowan tree. They are covered with snow to keep them warm. And coniferous trees stand with needles and are also covered in snow.

Teacher. What do the bushes look like?

Children. They also stand without leaves. The tops stick out from under the snow. They are warm, they are covered with snow.

Teacher. What else did we observe?

Children. When they shoveled the snow, under the snow they saw dry grass, needles from coniferous trees, dry twigs with seeds and green leaves.

Teacher. What plant was it?

Children. It was sorrel or hare cabbage. ( Picture on the board).

Teacher. Do all herbs die in the winter?

Children. No.

Teacher. Why?

Children. They were covered with snow and they were warm under it.

Teacher. You are right, but it would be more accurate to say that there is air between the snowflakes, and it is known to hold heat well. Why did the leaves remain green under the snow?

Children's answers: Warm. Don't know.

Teacher. They are green because the structure of their leaves is unusual, and the green color remains until spring.

4. Working with the book (p. 42-43)

Teacher. Look at the illustration. Is this similar to our nature?

Children. Yes.

Teacher. What is Masha and Misha's dad doing?

Children. He shakes snow from fruit trees.

Teacher. For what?

Children. If there is a lot of snow on the branches, they may break.

Teacher. Why did you decide that these were fruit trees?

Children. They have no leaves. When we visited Masha and Misha in the fall, we saw trees with apples.

Teacher. Do deciduous trees die in the winter?

Children's answers:

Yes. Because they have no food. After all, the ground is frozen.

No. They fall asleep for the winter, and in the spring they wake up and leaves appear.

Teacher. Trees fall asleep for the winter, like animals. They adapted to this, but we will see how. Take poplar branches from the table, first the girls and then the boys. Consider them. What can you say?

Children. There are buds on the branches.

Teacher. Tear off the bud scales. Take a magnifying glass and look at what is under the scales. What do you see now?

Children. There are small green leaves inside.

Teacher. What conclusion will you draw?

Children. Trees do not die in the winter. They hid the future leaves under the scales.

Teacher. When did this kidney appear?

Children's answers:

Don't know.

Teacher. In early spring, the bud will open and leaves will appear. They grow and the bud grows. By winter it grows and looks like this.

5. Work in notebooks.

Teacher. In the textbook on p. 42 we see a drawing of a kidney. In the notebooks on p. 31 complete task number 30: draw and color a kidney.

6. Summary.

What useful things did you do?

What knowledge helped us in our work?

What new did you learn?

What did you especially like?

How should you fertilize perennial flowers and ornamental shrubs in the fall?

Answers experienced amateur gardener Elena Mikhailova:

— While we generously feed annual garden plants before harvesting, we need to be much more careful with perennial crops. It’s better not to feed anything at all than to overdo it with fertilizers. Nitrogen fertilizers are especially dangerous: they stimulate further growth and slow down the ripening of tissues, and in trees and shrubs, lignification of young shoots. Plants that fail to prepare for winter may freeze. On the contrary, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers improve the development of the root system, promote better ripening and increased winter hardiness of buds and wood, and increase plant resistance to adverse factors.

Harmful:

Complex mineral mixtures with a significant nitrogen content (for example, nitroammofoska, azofoska, etc., as well as ready-made mixtures labeled “lawn” or “spring”).

Any highly soluble and fast-acting organic fertilizers (infusion of grass, bird droppings, slurry). The best time for their use is May-June, and in August-September they are strictly contraindicated for perennial plants.

Useful:

Potassium and phosphorus fertilizers, microelement additives (in quantities specified by the manufacturer on the packaging). A good choice is potassium monophosphate: this fertilizer contains both phosphorus and potassium, is highly soluble and quickly absorbed by plants, unlike, say, superphosphate, which is long-acting. You can also use ready-made fertilizer mixtures, but only special ones for autumn application (with a nitrogen content of no more than 5-10%).

Well-rotted organic matter (peat, humus, compost) as an additive to the soil between bushes or organic mulch.

Mulch from plant waste (grass clippings, straw, fallen leaves, crushed bark or wood chips). It decomposes slowly and does not upset the nutritional balance. In addition, loose materials located on the soil surface noticeably smooth out sharp fluctuations in temperature and humidity in the area of ​​roots and wintering buds, which helps plants more easily endure the unpredictable vagaries of autumn and winter weather. But don’t overdo it with the layer thickness: 2-4 cm is enough! The clumped, airtight “compress” that a thick layer of damp organic matter turns into during the humid fall can easily become a source of problems.

Wood ash (100-200 g per square meter). It is a source of not only potassium and phosphorus, but also calcium, magnesium and many other trace elements.

To pinch or not?

Many ornamental trees and shrubs have delayed growth due to damp and cold weather at the beginning of summer. In theory, this is fraught with freezing. To avoid this, it is advised to pinch out the tips of the branches that have not yet had time to wooden in August-September. Is it worth doing this and if so, which crops, when and how exactly?

Answers Candidate of Biological Sciences Irina Okuneva:

— In general, if we talk about all ornamental trees and shrubs, I would refrain from pinching shoots. Yes, theoretically, this technique can contribute to the end of growth and the rapid lignification of shoots. But at the same time, it is used to weaken growth and enhance branching. What result will be achieved depends on the pinching period, the condition of the shoot, the species and even the variety of tree or shrub, as well as on weather conditions in the next month or two. An error in calculations can result in the appearance of new shoots that certainly do not have time to ripen. In addition, some plants, such as lilacs, require upper buds for full flowering. And not all gains need to be weakened.

In addition, even weather forecasters don’t know for sure - what if the weather is so favorable that it will allow all the shoots to ripen safely and have a good winter? Or vice versa - will the frosts come so early and be so severe that even large branches will freeze? The real results of wintering will only be assessed in the spring. Then, during scheduled pruning, you will cut off what is really frozen. In autumn, it makes sense to remove unripe parts only from those plants that will overwinter with shelter (for example, roses) so that they do not rot.

But what can you do now if you see that your favorite bush or tree is not yet thinking about preparing for winter? Try tilting or bending the growing shoots and tying them in this position - this will help stop their growth. It will also be useful to feed the plants with potassium sulfate (not chloride) or, as an option, add wood ash to them.

How do ornamental shrubs winter?

They have good winter hardiness. Problems are unlikely: spirea, lilac, mock orange, tree and paniculata hydrangeas, bladderwort, hawthorn, Thunberg and common barberries (varieties), white dogwood (varieties).

Moderately resistant. Annual shoots and flower buds often freeze: Japanese quince, elderberry, ornamental cherries and plums, tree peonies, rhododendrons, mackerel, forsythia.

Weakly winter-resistant, they require obligatory shelter in central Russia and to the north: most varietal garden roses, large-leaved, oak-leaved, serrated hydrangeas, etc., buddleia, deutzia (varieties).

It's getting colder outside, people are putting on warm jackets. It's time to protect your plants from frost in the garden! Why is it important to know how to properly protect plants from the cold? In this article we will tell you which plants need to be protected from frost, and when is the best time to do this, so that they cope well with cold winds and low temperatures. In the photo you can see how winter covering can look aesthetically pleasing and even, to some extent, provide a decorative effect!

Covering plants for the winter allows the most sensitive species of trees and shrubs to overwinter. Sometimes you can come across opinions that sheltering from frost is an unnecessary procedure, and sometimes even harmful. This assumption probably arises due to mistakes that can be made when protecting plants from frost with unsuitable materials or if work is carried out at the wrong time. When and how to cover plants for the winter correctly?

In winter, the frozen ground does not allow the plant to consume enough water, while the cold wind increases the effect of the cold, as a result the plant is exposed to freezing and drying out. This is especially dangerous for evergreen crops. To protect against frost, it is very important to know at what temperature it is optimal to cover plants, and for which crops which type of covering is best. Let's look at these questions in more detail.

What plants require protection from frost?

• evergreens, for example, rhododendron, Japanese cherry, laurel;
• roses, for which you should make a mound of soil or compost (we try to avoid peat);
• Magnolias, honeysuckle, and garden hydrangeas are also covered;
• Don't forget about grass, and especially Japanese sedge.

How to protect ornamental grasses?

After the ornamental grasses fade in the fall and the first frosts begin, it is worth thinking about how to ensure their wintering. Many species require additional shelter. It is worth noting that in the first year, almost all newly planted ornamental grasses require protection from frost.

How to tie ornamental grasses?

As soon as we see that the stems and leaves of ornamental grasses begin to wither, we should begin preparing them for the cold. It is best to choose a day with dry and sunny weather for this event, if possible. On such a day, grass leaves are easier to tie into bunches. If you are sure that the stems of ornamental grasses are dry, you can proceed to tying them. Some sheaves need to be tied in two or three places to form the correct shape of the bunch. Proper bunching is very important because during windy weather and on frosty days, some crops lose their leaves, as often happens, for example, with the leaves of the giant Miscanthus.

In order to tie the leaves of ornamental grasses, it is best to use jute or packaging twine (it can also be a simple cord). It is strong and holds the tied stems well, which under their own pressure on windy days can break a weak knot.

Tying ornamental grasses should be double, as in the photo. It is important not to cut off wilted leaves in the fall as they provide additional frost protection.

Bark, peat or spruce branches?

If frost persists for more than three days, it is advisable to protect ornamental grasses with a mound of bark. It is important not to do this too early because the stems can become steamed and rot, which can negatively impact their health and survival during the winter.

Typically pine bark or dry horticultural peat is used. You should scatter them around the grass and form a small hill that reliably protects the root system.

A mound of pine bark at the roots of grasses

Branches and agrofibre

Evergreen ornamental grasses (for example, Japanese sedge or fescue) should additionally be covered with spruce branches for the winter, that is, branches of coniferous trees or agrofibre. For shelter, you can only use suitable white agrofibre. Before using this material, evergreen grasses must be tied, but not too tightly, then covered with agrofibre and tied again so that snow does not penetrate from above.

Straw

Another material that will help protect ornamental grasses for the winter is straw mats. The mats are placed around the sheaf and carefully tied. To protect against frost, you should avoid using colorless film, bags or pine bark bags!

Ornamental grasses, even tied in bunches, will beautifully decorate any garden. Sprinkled with snow, they create a mysterious atmosphere in the garden.

Protecting potted plants

Plants grown in pots also require winter protection. They overwinter best in a bright, cool place at a temperature of 5 °C. When it is not possible to move the pots into the room, you can bury them in the ground, preferably in a windless place. If this is not possible, at least very simple protection against low temperatures should be provided. Namely, you need to make sure that the pots do not stand directly on a concrete or stone surface. To do this, you can place a layer of foam plastic about 10 cm thick under them, which insulates the pots from concrete or stone. This arrangement will prevent the roots from freezing.

Review of materials

Permeable materials should be used to protect plants from frost. Do not use film or other waterproof and airtight materials for covering, as this leads to overheating of the plants, loss of hardening, and subsequent freezing. Lack of ventilation also leads to the development of fungal diseases, so it is worth taking care of some air access.

For winter shelter you can use:

• white agrofibre 50 g/m² thick, with which the plant is wrapped two or three times;
• needles and spruce branches (branches) of coniferous trees;
• shading nets;
• straw mats;
• in some cases horticultural peat;
• leaves that fall from trees in autumn.

White agrofibre tied with decorative tape
Photo. Use of agrofibre and pine bark. We tie the entire bush with white agrofibre and tie it with a decorative ribbon, and insulate the roots with a mound of pine bark.
Photo. Roses covered with straw

In winter, plants risk losing a lot of water because they are unable to get enough water through their root systems if the soil is very frozen. Therefore, it is advisable to mulch around the plants, thereby protecting them from soil freezing. You can make a mound of earth, compost or bark to a height of 20-30 cm right at the base of the bush.

Frost-sensitive perennials and small shrubs can be covered with spruce branches (branches of coniferous trees). Here, too, you can add decorative elements to improve the aesthetic effect. Such compositions often become not only an effective measure of protection, but also a real decoration of a sleeping winter garden.

Evergreen deciduous and coniferous species require shelter when young, especially from frosty, dry winds and sun, which creates large temperature differences between day and night, often occurring in February-March. To do this, you can use coniferous tree branches, agrofibre, straw or corrugated cardboard.

Film or other material impermeable to air is not suitable for coating, as it promotes the development of fungal diseases.
Covering is carried out after light frosts appear - in November - December, depending on the climate zone.

Tall bushes (such as magnolias) are less resistant to frost and require shelter, especially when they are young. Covering an entire bush more than 1 m in height is quite troublesome. Therefore, it is advisable to protect at least the base of the bush 30 cm in height. If the upper part of the bush freezes during a harsh winter, the base with dormant buds will survive the frost without damage and will produce new shoots that can quickly restore the bush. Suitable for this purpose:

• sawdust;
• bark;
• the soil;
• mulch (fallen leaves).

Rose care

In order to cover roses for the winter, the best and cheapest way is to use earth, which is raked into mounds and then covered with branches, making a mound 20-30 cm high. When raking mounds, care should be taken not to expose or damage the roots . Therefore, in the place where we take the soil for the mounds, it is recommended to scatter well-decomposed cattle manure, which we cover in the spring with earth taken from the mounds. But you can’t use manure for the mounds themselves!

Good to know! Low rose bushes can be bent to the ground and a mound of earth can be poured on top to protect them from frost.

To protect the roses on the trunk from frost, you need to tie the bowl and carefully tilt it towards the ground, then you should strengthen it with sticks so that it does not straighten out. After this, the bowl (the most sensitive to frost) is covered with a mound of earth, compost, bark or sawdust. The thickness of the mound should be about 20 cm. For complete guarantee, you can also cover the stem.

Deadlines

When and at what temperature should plants be covered? The period when plants should be covered depends on the climate of a particular area; it occurs when the first frosts begin, on average - mid-November. Plants should not be covered too early because winter cover will raise the soil temperature, which can cause the plants to grow further, delaying their entry into winter dormancy. In this case, the plants may die from rotting. Therefore, shelter should be made only when regular frosts have occurred and the soil has frozen to a depth of 3-4 cm.

Everything that we need for work, for example, agrofibre, protective caps and other materials, should be prepared in advance so that everything is ready and we do not miss the right moment.

Many species and varieties of plants are not resistant to frost and require shelter. There are many methods of protection; it is only important to choose the most suitable one depending on the type of planting. In addition to agrotextiles, other materials and raw materials available in the garden can also be used: straw, dry leaves, sawdust, coniferous branches, straw mats and bark will be suitable for covering against the cold.

It is also important not to miss the onset of frost, and at the same time not to cover the plantings too early, so that they do not enter the growing season and become frozen. This should be done when the first frosts appear and the top layer of soil freezes. In November, the weather sometimes plays tricks and, despite a few cooler days, it can also surprise you with warm and sunny days. Therefore, it is important to wait until the temperature (during the day) is around -5 degrees for several days in a row.

Lesson 37The world around us

look
"For a long time
on
winter
snow
buried
the ground and involuntarily
you'll wonder: what's there?
under it, under it
cold
dry
sea ​​of ​​snow? Left
And how are you
there, at the bottom,
do you think there is
is life under
though
anything
alive?
snow?

Discourse “How grasses overwinter”
“It’s white all around, and the snow is deep.” And it would be sad
to think that there is nothing on earth now but snow,
that all the flowers have long since faded and all the grass has dried up.
But that’s what they usually think. And they calm you down
himself: “Well, that’s how it’s supposed to be by nature!”
How little we still know about nature!
Today is a clear day. Let's clear the snow.
Why do herbs
green leaves
don't die in
winter cold?

Data
Because under the snow there is no strong
frost. A snow coat protects the earth from
winter cold.
sow in autumn. Soon
– Winter wheat
appear
grows up
Wheat
shoots.
bushes and in this form overwinters under
snow. In the spring it will continue to grow and by the end
summer will bring harvest.

Discourse “How shrubs and trees winter”
– What shrubs and trees grow in our
park?
– Do you think these plants are alive?
– Pay attention to bushes and trees. How
They look? Do they have leaves?
– Are they covered with snow?
– Can frost kill a tree?
– If a tree freezes all the way through, to the very core, it will
will die. In especially harsh winters with little snow, many people die in our country.
trees, mostly young.

All summer long, trees diligently store
trunks and branches sap for the winter. Juices (starch)
the trees become thick and dense, and the movement
juices slow down. The tree seems to be falling asleep.
Having created reserves of such nutrition, the tree is ready
withstand slight frosts. First frosts
they harden it, make it even more durable; juice
the tree thickens even more. And the trees fall into
real hibernation, like gophers, chipmunks, marmots.
The colder it is, the deeper the hibernation, the peace

V. Bianchi “Forest in Winter”
cold,
“...Trees, having gathered strength over the summer, refuse to
from food, they stop eating, they stop growing...
fall into deep sleep.
The leaves exhale a lot of heat, down with the leaves for the winter!
The trees throw them off, refuse them,
to retain the warmth necessary for life. A
by the way, leaves thrown from the branches rotting on the ground
provide warmth and protect delicate roots
trees from freezing.
Little of! Every tree has a shell,
protecting plants from frost. All summer, every year
trees lay under the skin of their trunk and
branches porous fabric - dead cork layer.
The air stagnates in its pores and does not allow it to escape
heat from the living body of the tree. The older the tree, the
the cork layer in it is thicker - that’s why the old ones,
thick trees tolerate it better
how
young trees with thin stems and branches...
But the best protection against frost is fluffy snow.
cover. It is known that caring gardeners deliberately
chilly young fruit trees bend to the ground
snow: it’s warmer for them. IN
And
snowy
snow like a duvet
abandon them
winter

Future leaves are hidden in winter
these kidneys.
- How can a person
help trees in winter?
Close up trees
covering material
Fill up the tree trunks
circles with snow.

With
Interesting page
1) What natural phenomena
can you watch it in winter?
2) What happens in winter
time
deciduous
trees?
3) Why not
coniferous trees?
4) But which of you knows why?
Does the snow crunch under your feet?
5) What coniferous plant
By
is
champion
release of phytoncides?
6) What are fish worried about?
ice?
fall asleep

Starokhmelevsky branch

MBOU Novonikolsk Secondary School

Lesson-research on the surrounding world in 1st grade

"How do grasses, shrubs and trees overwinter"

Developed by a primary school teacher

Zabelina O.V.

2013 – 2014 academic year

Goals:
-formation of students’ ideas about the life of plants in winter;
- formation of students' research skills (observation, inferences, analysis, search for necessary information, classification);
-developing the ability to use your skills in individual and pair work.
Tasks:
Educational: introduce students to the life of trees, shrubs, and grasses in winter;
Developmental: develop research skills
Educational: to cultivate a caring attitude towards nature, interest in the surrounding world.
UUD:
Cognitive: make observations, use laboratory equipment, formulate hypotheses, draw conclusions based on the results obtained.
Regulatory: goal setting.
Communication: the ability to express and prove your thoughts.
Personal: self-control.
Type of lesson: lesson - research.
Teaching methods:
-method of asking educational questions,
-method “Educational research”,
- information and communication method.
Technical support: interactive complex.
Equipment: textbook, notebook, magnifying glasses, poplar branches with buds, microscope, illustrations of trees, shrubs and herbs, computer presentation “How herbs, shrubs and trees overwinter”
During the classes
1. Organizational moment.
-Hello guys!
-Today in class I invite you to conduct a study in which you
be real scientists.
-Who are scientists, what do they do?
(Children's answers)
Well done!
2. Creating a problem situation: choosing an object of research, research goals, putting forward a hypothesis.
Teacher Let's define the object of study.
The teacher asks a riddle: He breathes, grows, but cannot walk.
Pictures of trees, shrubs and grasses are attached to the board, temporarily closed.
Children Plant
Teacher. Why did they decide this?
Children. Plants breathe, grow, eat, reproduce and die.
Cards with these words appear on the board.
Teacher. What else can you say about these items?
Children. This is living nature.
Teacher. So what will be the object of our research?
If we summarize your answers, then the object of our research will be living nature - plants.
-Why are we going to conduct research?
(Children's answers)
Teacher. From your words, we can formulate the PURPOSE of the study.
“We’ll find out how grasses, shrubs and trees overwinter.”
Teacher. You recently studied the topic “Nature and its seasonal changes”
Are their lives different? (Children's answers)
Teacher. If we summarize your answers, we can assume that plant life in winter is different from autumn and summer.
The guess that children make is called HYPOTENSION.
The hypothesis must be tested. By testing a hypothesis, scientists gain new knowledge. You formulated your hypothesis this way:
PLANT LIFE IN WINTER IS DIFFERENT FROM LIFE IN SUMMER AND AUTUMN.
3. Hypothesis testing
Teacher. And you and I, like real scientists, will conduct an experiment to test the hypothesis. Experiments can be mental or real.
We will conduct a thought experiment with you. To do this, we will go on a trip to the forest.
Pictures appear on the board.
(On each desk there is a set of pictures)
Teacher. Look at everything carefully. What thoughts did you have? What work do you propose to do?
Children. Can be divided into groups.
Teacher. Which ones, and how to determine them?
Children. One group is trees, they have one trunk and it is thick. The other is shrubs, they have several trunks.
Teacher. What do they look like in summer and autumn?
Children. There are grasses left, their stems are thin, they are not always visible from under the snow.
Children go to the board, select groups and name the plants.
(The rest of the children work in pairs)
Teacher. What do shrubs, trees and grasses look like in winter? (presentation)
Children. They stand without leaves. The tops stick out from under the snow. They are warm, they
covered with snow.
Open the textbook with. 42-43
Teacher. Look at the illustration. Is this similar to our nature?
Children. Yes.
Teacher. What is Masha and Misha's dad doing?
Children. He shakes snow from fruit trees.
Teacher. For what?
Children. If there is a lot of snow on the branches, they may break.
Teacher. Why did you decide that these were fruit trees?
Children. They have no leaves. When we visited Masha and Misha in the fall, we saw trees with apples.
Teacher. Do deciduous trees die in the winter?
Children's answers:
- Yes. Because they have no food. After all, the ground is frozen.
- No. They fall asleep for the winter, and in the spring they wake up and leaves appear.
This concludes our thought experiment
4. Physical training
I'm not afraid of frost
I will become close friends with him.
The frost will come to me,
He touches his hand, touches his nose.
So, you must not yawn,
Jump, run and play.
Now let's do some real research.
Teacher. Trees fall asleep for the winter, like animals. They adapted to this, but we will see how. Take poplar branches from the table, first the girls and then the boys. Consider them. What can you say?
Children. There are buds on the branches.
Teacher. Tear off the bud scales. Take a magnifying glass and look at what is under the scales. What do you see now?
Children. There are small green leaves inside. (We look at the kidney on the screen through a microscope)
Teacher. What conclusion will you draw?
Children. Trees do not die in the winter. They hid the future leaves under the scales.
Teacher. When did this kidney appear?
Children's answers:
- In summer
- Don't know.
Teacher. In early spring, the bud will open and leaves will appear. They grow and the bud grows. By winter it grows and looks like this.
Watching a fairy tale or listening to the interactive whiteboard “Where do the buds spend the winter?” N. Pavlova
5. Work in notebooks.
Teacher. In the textbook on p. 42 we see a drawing of a kidney. In the notebooks on p. 31 complete task number 30: draw and color a kidney.
6. Conclusion based on the results of the research work. Reflection.
Teacher. We assumed that the life of grasses, shrubs and trees in winter differs from life in summer and autumn.
-We have proven this hypothesis
-What is the evidence for our hypothesis?
Well done! Dear scientists, who learned something new in class today, take the green card out of the envelope and show it to me. And whoever hasn’t learned anything new, show the red card. With this we have completed our research.
But you can learn a lot of new and interesting things by reading children's encyclopedias, which can be not only printed, but also electronic.
7.Summing up the lesson
Teacher. You guys were real scientists today. I want to reward you with the emblems of scientists for your work.

Fairy tale “Where the buds spend the winter”
Now all the plants are in a daze. But we are ready to welcome spring and begin to develop our buds.
Where do these buds spend the winter?
The trees are high above the ground. But for herbs it’s different.
Here in forest chickweed (see 1) they are in the axils of the leaves on a drooping stem. Its buds are alive and green, but the leaves have already turned yellow and withered since the fall, and the plant seems dead.
And the cat's paw (see 2), chickweed (see 3), oak grass (see 4) and many other low grasses are protected not only by the buds under the snow - they themselves are preserved there unharmed in order to meet the spring greener.
All these herbs have buds that overwinter above the ground, although not very high.
For others, the buds are placed differently for the winter.
From last year's wormwood, bindweed, mouse pea, kupavka (see 5) and marigold (see 6) there is now nothing left above the ground except half-rotten leaves and stems.
And if you look for their buds, you will find them close to the ground.
Strawberries, dandelions, porridge, sorrel and yarrow also have buds on the ground, but they are surrounded by rosettes of green leaves. These herbs will also come out greener from under the snow. Many other herbs keep their buds underground during the winter. There, buds overwinter on the rhizomes of anemone (see 7), lily of the valley, mynichka (see 8), toadflax (see 9), willowherb, coltsfoot, in the bulbs of wild garlic and goose onions, in the nodules of corydalis.
This is where the buds of land plants overwinter. And aquatic buds spend the winter at the bottom of ponds and lakes, buried in silt.
Footnotes
1. Chickweed is a genus of herbs in the clove family. OK. 120 species, all over the globe. Chickweed (chickweed grass) is poisonous to horses and cattle, chickweed (chickweed) is a weed.
2. Cat's paw (cuff) is a perennial herbaceous creeping plant.
3. Jaskolka is a genus of herbaceous plants of the Clove family, common in temperate zones of the Northern Hemisphere.
4. Dubrovka (tenacious) is a genus of herbaceous plants of the Lamiaceae family.
5. Bathhouse (kupavka) is a genus of perennial herbaceous plants from the Ranunculaceae family.
6. Marigold is a small genus of perennial herbaceous plants of the Ranunculaceae family, living in damp or marshy places.
7. Anemone is a genus of rhizomatous herbs (occasionally subshrubs) of the Ranunculaceae family. OK. 150 species, all over the globe. Many of them are early spring plants, some are decorative. 2 species are protected.
8. Maynik is a perennial herbaceous plant growing in shady forests in Russia.
9. Flaxgrass is a genus of herbs in the Norichaceae family. OK. 150 species, in the extratropical region of the Northern Hemisphere, are common in the Caucasus and Middle East. Asia. Common toadflax is a weed; honey plant Some types are decorative. 1 species is protected.