Installing an air conditioner in an apartment yourself. Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation: rules, tools and installation steps

Professional installation of an air conditioner is the key to its long service life. At first glance, this procedure does not look difficult - just connect the external and internal units of the split system. But is it? To analyze the complexity of installation, it is necessary to consider each stage.

Before installation begins, a number of preparatory measures should be taken. They are divided into 2 groups - according to the parameters of the room and ensuring installation conditions. The main selection criteria are: the area of ​​the room, the presence of fresh ventilation, the number of people permanently or periodically staying in it.

After this, you can begin preparatory work indoors. They are carried out during or before repairs:

1. Refer to the instruction manual for installation requirements. This will form the basis for proper installation.
2. The distance from the indoor unit to the ceiling must be at least 15 cm. This way you can ensure the safety of the system and its efficiency. There should be no barriers to the air flow - screens, interior partitions, etc.
3. Electrical supply to the installation site of the air conditioner. It is advisable to allocate a separate line with a machine in the general control panel.

This stage of work can be carried out independently. Further actions will require a fair amount of skill and practical experience. It is enough to allow the slightest inaccuracy, and even more so a hidden defect, and the operation of expensive climate control equipment will be at risk.

In most cases, installation consists of the following steps:

For each of these stages, it is important to follow the installation technology.

Drilling a hole

If the hole in the wall will be made immediately behind the indoor unit, you must first attach the mounting plate. The air conditioner housing will be installed on it, so the work should be done very carefully. First, markings are made on the wall, the correct installation is measured using a level, and then the plate is installed.

A hole with a diameter of 50 mm is drilled next to it; work is best carried out indoors, but safety should be checked. During work, part of the wall may collapse - one of the installers must stand on the street and control the process from there.

Installation of interblock route

It is necessary to connect all the elements of the interblock line to the indoor unit: copper tubes for freon, a drainage system and an electrical cable. For insurance, it is recommended to increase the estimated length of the route by 30 cm. This will make it possible to avoid possible errors during installation.

The most important thing is the correct connection of the copper pipeline. It is completely straightened, nuts and flex are installed on the mounting ends. Next, the tubes are rolled and attached to the indoor unit. It is very important to maintain the required force.

If the tightening is not tight enough, freon will leak, and if pinched, the copper sheath may be damaged, which will also lead to loss of tightness.

At this stage, special equipment for soldering and crimping is required. The cost of a professional tool is high - purchasing it for a one-time installation is unprofitable. If you use a lower quality one, then there is a high probability of incorrect connection of the pipeline.

Next, a drainage hose is installed, and the place where it connects to the block is covered with Teflon tape. Then the electrical cable is connected. The resulting line needs thermal insulation; for this, the tubes are twisted using special moisture-resistant tape, and a thermal insulating casing is installed.

Outdoor unit installation

Installing an outdoor unit is one of the simplest stages of work. But it is also necessary to comply with the installation conditions. First of all, you need to choose an installation location. The boundary distances from the blocks to the walls are shown in the figure.

In addition, the safety of the device should be taken into account. To prevent theft, the outdoor unit is installed in a lattice housing. To protect against external damage, a galvanized steel canopy must be installed. The fastening elements must withstand at least 4 times the weight of the entire structure.

The interblock route led through the hole is connected to the outdoor unit. The method for connecting all lines is the same as for the indoor unit.

Refilling with freon

One of the important stages in installing an air conditioner is refilling with freon. It is impossible to perform this procedure without special equipment.

Freon brand R-22 or similar is often chosen. It is optimally suited for Russian operating conditions. The order of work is as follows:

This completes the installation. As can be seen from this overview description of the installation process, the installation of an air conditioner is labor-intensive and requires great practical knowledge from the installer. Therefore, it is not recommended to install the climate system yourself, since there are still many parameters that can directly affect its efficiency and operating time.

An air conditioner is an electrical appliance that cools the room in summer and heats it when the temperature approaches zero. Installation of a split system or other climate control device has a number of features and nuances. Knowing them and observing technology and safety requirements, you can easily install the equipment yourself.

Principle of operation

An air conditioner is a technically complex device designed to maintain the indoor microclimate. Individual models may differ in the method of air supply, number of blocks, power, size and other parameters.

For example, based on the number of blocks used, there is the following classification:

1. Monoblocks. All functions are performed by one block. This design is easy to maintain and operate, and has a long service life. The main disadvantage is the high cost.
2. Split systems. The design consists of two independent blocks. The first is mounted on the outer wall of the house, the second - inside. The blocks are connected by a tube through which freon moves. The internal unit contains the evaporator and fan, other parts are located in the external one.
3. Multisplit systems. With one external structure, such structures have a different number of internal blocks. This is convenient if the owners plan to provide an optimal microclimate in several adjacent rooms.

This air conditioner consists of two blocks, communications and remote control

Regardless of the model, the functioning of any climate control device is based on the property of liquids to give off heat during condensation and absorb it during evaporation.

The main components of the unit include:

1. A compressor in which freon is compressed and then sent to the refrigeration circuit.
2. Evaporator. Here the refrigerant evaporates and enters the gaseous stage.
3. A capacitor responsible for the reverse process - the transition of freon to the liquid stage.
4. Thermostatic expansion valve (TEV), which reduces the pressure of the refrigerant before sending it to the evaporator.
5. Fans that blow air over all important parts.

All components, with the exception of fans, are connected by copper pipes. The result is a refrigeration circuit with a constantly circulating refrigerant mixed with compressor oil.

The operating principle of most air conditioners is as follows:

• The evaporator sends freon gas to the compressor. At this moment, the refrigerant temperature reaches 10–20 degrees at a pressure of 3–5 atmospheres.
• In the compressor, freon is compressed. The pressure increases to 15–20 atmospheres and the refrigerant is heated to 80–90 degrees. After this, it is redirected to the capacitor.
• In the condenser, the refrigerant cools and becomes liquid. The air flowing through the assembly heats up.
• Next, liquid freon, under increased pressure, is transferred to the expansion valve. In most household units, this device is a copper spiral pipe. During the circulation process, the pressure and temperature of the freon decrease, and some of it evaporates.
• The freon then goes into the evaporator. Here it finally takes on a gaseous form, cooling the room where the air conditioner is installed. The air in the room becomes cooler. Next, the gaseous refrigerant under reduced pressure is supplied to the compressor and the cycle begins to repeat.

All air conditioners operate on this principle, regardless of the number of units and other features of a particular model.

Tools and equipment

Installation of split systems and multi-split systems is best carried out simultaneously with a major renovation of the premises. If the walls are already finished, you can safely order new cladding.

For installation you will need the following set of tools and materials:

1. Powerful hammer drill and set of chisels. When installing, you will need to drill a hole with a diameter of 10 centimeters in the load-bearing wall.
2. Pipe cutter It is not allowed to cut refrigerant pipes with a regular hacksaw. Copper filings and crumbs that will inevitably remain after cutting will quickly damage the compressor.
3. Rebar detector. When installing a split system into a concrete wall and hitting the reinforcement during the work, you will have to make another hole.
4. Pipe flaring kit.
5. Bicycle pump, which is used to check the tightness of the system.
6. Vacuum pump. With its help, the system is checked for leaks.
7. Pressure gauge, phase indicator, tester.

It removes moisture and air from the system for subsequent leak testing

The specific set of materials depends on the type of air conditioner being installed and the installation features. In particular, to install a split system you will need the following:

• Copper pipes with return nuts and thermal insulation material. Necessary for laying the route.
• 20A electric circuit breaker and cable.
• Decorative boxes for laying pipes, drainage and electrical cables. If the routes are laid in grooves, the electrical wiring will be placed in a corrugated pipe.
• Brackets for mounting external and indoor units.
• Drainage hoses.
• Fittings, bolts, fasteners, screws, dowels, etc.

It is better to purchase a copper tube with some reserve. With a long enough pipe, you can lower the outdoor unit a little lower. This allows you to compensate for the slight overspending on the purchase of a good thermosyphon.

When purchasing a pipe in a coil, you need to make sure that its ends are rolled using the factory method. Cracks and dents are excluded.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the installation of the air conditioner, it is necessary to carry out a number of preliminary procedures and calculations. First of all, you need to decide on the place where the installation will take place.

Choosing an installation location

The quality of air conditioning, the well-being of the owners living or working in the room, and the design of the house or apartment depend on where the air conditioner is installed.

The choice of location for a window air conditioner is obvious. The mobile air conditioner can be installed in any desired location. The main problem is with classic split systems.

When choosing a place for installation, in particular, an indoor unit, you can follow several recommendations:

1. Do not place the device on the wall opposite the entrance to the room.
2. The distance from the block to the ceiling should not be less than 10 centimeters.
3. The air flow is directed in the direction where people are least likely to be. If the split system is installed in the bedroom, it should be placed away from the bed. If remote installation is not possible, the unit can be installed above your head so that cold air flows to your feet.
4. The air conditioner is installed at some distance from the cabinets. If the furniture is placed next to and slightly below the split system, air currents, blowing dust from the top cover, will form a dusty curtain.
5. The air duct route can be laid in boxes or pre-equipped gates. The minimum length of the air duct can reduce the cost of installing a split.

The location for installing the external unit is selected separately. The simplest option is to place the block on the external wall of a balcony or loggia. Installation can also be done on the roof. The second method is relevant for residents of the top floors of high-rise buildings.

Air conditioner check

Before carrying out installation work, the air conditioner must be thoroughly inspected. The owner must ensure that the unit was not damaged during transportation and that all parts specified in the package are available.

When inspecting the air conditioner, you must ensure the following:

• There should be no dents, cracks or other deformations on the external unit of the split system.
• There should be no foreign elements at the connection points. The thread must be clean and undamaged. Deep scratches on the metal are unacceptable; this is a sign of defective or unskilled dismantling.
• There are stickers on the external unit that detail the manufacturer, power and other information about the air conditioner. All this data must match the instructions.
• The electrical circuit of the air conditioner should be located under the cover or in another accessible place.
• The split system must include screws with which the remote unit is attached to the bracket. If their availability is not provided by the manufacturer, they are purchased separately.
• Damage to the indoor unit is not allowed.
• The filters should be free of stains, odors, and traces of detergents. If this is present, it means the air conditioner has been used and washed.

If no visible deformations are detected, you can check the operation of the air conditioner. To do this, the indoor unit of the split system is started in “fan” mode from the nearest outlet. There is no need to check other modes; this will lead to incorrect operation of the device. If everything works properly, you can disconnect the unit from the network and continue the installation.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation

There are several types of air conditioners offered on the climate control equipment market. The most common among them are conventional and multi-split systems, window, floor and duct models. The installation of each of them has its own characteristics. Let's look at the installation of all systems in more detail.

Split system

It is the most common type of air conditioner. This is a structure consisting of two blocks connected to each other. One of them is located indoors and provides an optimal climate, the other is installed outside.

Outdoor unit

Installing the external part is the most difficult part of installing a split system. When decorating high-rise buildings, such work is carried out using industrial mountaineering.

First, brackets are attached to the wall of the building. With some models of split systems they are included, for others you will have to purchase them additionally. To fasten the parts, anchor bolts are used, which are purchased complete with brackets. Thanks to the reliable fastening, the block will not fall, even if it gets icy.

When installing the block, it is necessary to maintain a distance from the walls. Specific numbers are indicated in the documentation for the split system. The structure is placed horizontally; during installation you need to use a building level.

Some blocks weigh more than 100 kg. A lift is required to install them.

The installation technology is as follows:

• Holes for anchor bolts are drilled strictly perpendicular to the wall surface.
• The minimum distance by which the block must be moved away from the wall is 20 centimeters. The exact numbers are indicated in the instructions.
• All communications approaching the block are securely fixed.
• There should not be any architectural structures or other air conditioners directly above the unit. A small visor is installed on top.
• The mass of the block can exceed one hundred kilograms. When selecting a bracket, it is necessary to take into account that it must withstand double the weight of the unit: this will allow it to withstand the effects of various weather conditions.

The maximum distance to which open communications of a split system can go along the wall does not exceed 1 meter.

Installing an air conditioner on a ventilated facade and loggia has its own characteristics. The difficulty of the first case is that the building is already lined with a layer of insulation and porcelain tiles fixed on metal guides. Installation on a ventilated facade is carried out as follows:

Certain nuances are also associated with installing an air conditioner on a balcony or loggia. Installation of an outdoor unit inside a building is prohibited, which is why it is often placed on a parapet. Some homeowners install a split inside a glazed loggia. In this case, the windows must be left open, otherwise the system will not work properly.

Indoor unit

The block is installed under the ceiling, with a certain distance from the walls. The distance to the nearest surfaces for each model is determined individually and is indicated in the accompanying documentation. During installation, it is necessary to take into account that the indoor unit is installed higher than the external one.

The system is installed in two ways:

1. Parallel to the floor. The structure is set to the building level.
2. With a slight slope (about 5 degrees) towards the drainage. This facilitates the drainage of condensate.

Before starting installation work, the mounting points to the wall are marked. For this, chalk and a building level are used.

First, the mounting plate is attached. Most often it is included in the installation kit. If the package is incomplete, you need to measure the parameters of the block and purchase the part. 4–6 screws are used for fastening.

A block is installed on the plate. For easy access to the fittings for further work, you can place a small object, for example, a screwdriver, under the air conditioner.

If there are increased high-frequency vibrations in the room, for example, from machine tools, there is no need to install a split system here.

Laying routes and communications

A hole is required to carry out the necessary communications. It is drilled with a hammer drill, the diameter of the drill is up to 5 cm. If drainage is laid in the same route, the channel is made with a slight slope (up to 10 degrees) towards the street. A section of the route is laid into the wall; if this is not possible (for example, after indoor renovation), external installation can be carried out using a decorative box.

The standard communication route includes:

1. Freon line - copper tubes of a given length.
2. Wiring.
3. Drainage - occasionally.

Freon pipes, wiring and drainage hose are laid

The length of electrical wiring and pipelines depends on the length of the route, taking into account a small margin. Copper tubes are cut with a pipe cutter; when using a grinder or other devices, sawdust and burrs appear. Before installation, the pipes are placed in a heat-insulating shell - this prevents construction debris from penetrating inside.

When installed externally, communications can be hidden in the cable channel

After installation, it is necessary to connect the wiring and freon pipe line. The wiring diagram is contained in the instructions supplied with each air conditioner.

To connect the freon pipe, you need to adjust its size, remove burrs (if any), thread the nuts and flare the edges. After this, the pipes are brought to the fittings of both blocks, connected, and the nuts are tightened with a wrench. It is necessary to ensure that all connections are completely sealed.

Drainage

A reinforced plastic pipe is used for drainage. It is connected to the drain pipe, for which a threaded flange is used (if this method is provided for in the design) or a heat-shrinkable tube.

According to technology, drainage is discharged into the sewer. In practice, many owners take the tube outside the house. It is important that it does not bend upward: water accumulates at the bend, and fungi and microbes appear and spread in it.

Final works

After installing communications, laying a route, etc., the line is checked for leaks and vacuumed. The pump is connected to the port using a manifold and pumps out air for 20 minutes. Then the device turns off, after which it is necessary to observe the pressure for a while. If the readings on the pressure gauge have not changed within half an hour, the system is considered sealed.

After the final check, you can open the taps on the external unit and fill the system with freon. Refrigerant leakage is not allowed: this not only provokes malfunctions in the split system, but also negatively affects human health. Next, the structure is connected to the network. In most household air conditioners, power is supplied to the indoor unit, for which you only need to place an electrical outlet nearby.

Video: step-by-step installation

How to install a window air conditioner yourself

Installing a window-type air conditioner does not require laying routes, carrying out work at heights and other difficulties inherent in installing split systems.

Free gaps are closed with decorative inserts

When working, you must follow the given sequence of actions:

1. Preparing the site. The glass is removed and a “jumper” is installed.
2. Bracket installation.
3. Installation of the block.
4. Connecting a drainage hose, if provided for by the design.
5. Connecting the air conditioner to the power supply.

Video: connecting a window structure

Floor system

The floor-standing air conditioner also does not require installation of an external unit and can be installed anywhere. It is only necessary to ensure that the heated air is discharged outside the room. Some simply duct the air duct out of an open window - this minimizes the operation of the air conditioner itself.

To prevent heated air from the street or from the air duct from entering the room, you need to equip a ventilation duct. To do this, you can order a plastic window with a suitable hole from a specialized organization, or purchase plexiglass and cut it yourself.

An open window makes it pointless to cool the room

To make a hole of suitable size in the plexiglass, you need to attach an air duct to it, circle it in a circle and cut a hole. An improved soldering iron is suitable as a cutting tool: a cut is made in the “tip” of the tool into which a blade from a breadboard knife is inserted. When the device operates, the blade heats up and begins to cut plastic.

Duct

The main advantage of duct-type air conditioners is the ability to combine cooled air with street air, thereby performing ventilation functions. For this purpose, an additional air duct is connected to the unit. To organize the mixture, the following procedures are necessary:

1. A hole for the air duct is drilled in the outer wall.
2. From the street side, a grate is inserted into the hole. An electric valve is installed next to it. When the air conditioner stops, it blocks the air supply.
3. The air duct is installed. Air will flow through it into the filter.
4. Next along the chain, an electric heater is installed. Filtered air enters it. Heating ensures optimal room temperature in winter.
5. The final unit is a duct fan that provides air circulation.

Installation of the duct air conditioner itself consists of installing an external and internal unit, as well as a pipe system. The external unit is similar to the same as that of a conventional split system. The indoor unit is installed under suspended or suspended ceilings.

If installation takes place in a private house, it can be installed in a technical or attic room.

The peculiarity of this type of air conditioner is that it can be used to control the microclimate in several rooms without damaging the interior decoration. This is ensured by a system of ventilation ducts, from which heated or cooled (depending on the settings) air passes from the unit through drilled and grated diffuser holes into the rooms.

The air is distributed through pipes and enters the room through diffusers

Some models allow vertical installation. In this case, the unit is located in the gap between the walls. This must be provided for at the construction stage of the building. Some models can be mounted on a load-bearing wall and hidden with a false beam or partition.

The winter kit allows you to use the split system at very low temperatures. The package includes:

1. A device that heats the compressor crankcase of an outdoor unit. Thanks to it, a “cold start” becomes impossible.
2. A device that regulates the speed of fan rotation. It redirects air flow and prevents freezing inside the air conditioner.
3. A device for heating the drainage, installed in the indoor unit. Thanks to this detail, icing of the condensate outlet is eliminated.

Modern devices are equipped with their own temperature sensors and automation

Installation proceeds as follows:

1. The protective covers and top covering of the external unit are removed. The front panel is removed. The need to dismantle the rear wall depends on the design features of the particular model.
2. The connection diagram for the fan controller depends on the type of device being connected. For example, Fasec-33 is installed in the neutral gap (wires that go to the capacitor), the Ballu device is built into the phase gap.
3. The crankcase heater is built into the bottom of the compressor and connected to the power supply. Modern models have their own temperature sensor, and when the set temperature is reached, the heating turns off automatically.
4. Band type heaters used for the drain system are installed directly inside the hose and are powered from the crankcase heater or compressor start terminals. The drains only need to be heated while the air conditioning compressor is running and condensation may form. The length of the heater should completely cover both the street part of the drain hose and the 15–20 cm located in the wall.

Before installing parts, the unit is disassembled

Video: How to install a winter kit

Safety precautions when installing an air conditioner

When installing the air conditioner, the following safety precautions must be observed:

1. The unit should not be installed in close proximity to potential sources of moisture or heat.
2. The unit should not be installed next to a doorway.
3. Let us repeat that air currents should not be directed towards a person.
4. It is necessary to ensure that the condensate drains, otherwise bacteria may appear.
5. The block is installed on a strong wall. During installation, a special plate and brackets included in the kit are used. Installation is carried out by level.

Many works related to the installation of a household air conditioner do not require qualifications and can be done independently. If you have the skills of a builder or electrician, installation can be carried out without serious difficulties.

Climate control equipment and, in particular, split systems, which are usually called air conditioners, help you survive the summer heat and stuffiness. The equipment is not cheap, but the worst thing is that for its installation you need to pay an amount slightly less than for the equipment. That’s why many people think about self-installation. Installing an air conditioner yourself is possible, but there are many little details and features, ignorance of which leads to rapid wear and tear of the equipment. Detailed step-by-step instructions will help you do everything right.

Selecting a location

Installing an air conditioner yourself begins with determining the location of the equipment. Since split systems consist of two or more blocks, you will have to choose a location for both. In this case, it is necessary to take into account how the cold air will spread in the house or apartment, and also take into account the technical requirements.

Let's start with the technical requirements. When choosing the location of the indoor unit, we take into account the following requirements:

• from the block to the ceiling - at least 15 cm (for some manufacturers at least 20-30 cm);
• to the side wall - at least 30 cm;
• to the obstacle against which the flow of cold air will break - at least 150 cm.

The outdoor unit is usually placed near a window or on an open balcony, if there is one. On a glazed balcony/loggia, it can be installed on a fence (if it has sufficient load-bearing capacity) or nearby on the wall. If you live on the first or second floor of a high-rise building, they try to place the outdoor unit above the window level - away from passers-by. On higher floors it can be placed under a window or on the side.

If you plan to install an air conditioner yourself in a private house, the location is usually selected based on the load-bearing capacity of the walls. If you have a ventilated façade, you can use a special fastening or hang the block on a plinth, if there is one.

When choosing the location of the split system blocks, you must also remember that in most cases the minimum and maximum distance between the blocks is standardized. Specific numbers depend on the manufacturer. For example, the minimum distance can be 1.5 m, 2.5 m (different Daikin models) and even 3 meters (Panasonic). Some manufacturers do not regulate the minimum length, that is, it can be anything. In this case, you can install the blocks back to back. Installers call this installation method a “sandwich”.

The situation with the maximum distance between two blocks is a little simpler. It is usually 6 meters. It may be more, but then additional refilling of the system with freon will be required, and this is an additional expense, and a considerable one. Therefore, they try to invest in the required 6 meters.

What you need for self-installation

You probably know how much it costs to install an air conditioner by specialists. When asked where such prices come from, since the work only lasts 3 hours, they answer that the equipment is very expensive and its depreciation makes up a significant portion of the cost. This may be true, but most of this equipment may already be on the farm. The exception is a vacuum pump, but many teams do without it, since a normal one really costs a lot, and a bad one is of no use.

Equipment

So, to install an air conditioner with your own hands you will need the following equipment:

For an ideal installation, a vacuum pump is needed, but usually there is nowhere to get one and on routes up to 6 meters they do without it.

Materials

To connect and install two split system units you will need the following consumables:

That's all you need to install the air conditioner yourself.

Installation procedure and features of the work

There is nothing super complicated about installing a split system yourself, but there are a lot of nuances that can affect the durability and quality of operation of the equipment. First of all, before starting work, you should carefully read the installation and operating instructions that come with the equipment. You will compensate for the time spent by knowing exactly what and how to do with your air conditioner, because there are some nuances.

Getting started - installing the blocks

Before starting all work, it is worth looking for hidden wiring or heating pipes in the intended installation location. Getting caught in them while working is very no fun. Next comes the actual installation of the air conditioner yourself. You need to start with installing the indoor unit. At the selected location we place a plate for its fastening. The block must hang strictly horizontally without the slightest deviation. Therefore, we approach marking and fastening carefully.

We apply the plate, level it, and mark the places for fastening. We drill holes, insert plastic plugs under the dowels, hang the plate and secure it with dowels. We especially carefully fasten the lower part of the plate - there are latches that hold the block, so they must be firmly fixed. No backlash. Then we check the horizontality again.

Having estimated where the route will be located (it must slope at least 1 cm per meter for normal drainage installation), we begin to drill a hole in the outer wall. We also drill the hole with a slope - again, so that condensation drains normally (the angle can be greater than that of the route).

The minimum diameter of the hole is 5 cm. If there is no drill of this size, you can make several holes of a smaller diameter, bringing out not a common bundle of communications, but each tube/cable separately. In any case, it is better to drill two holes - one for the copper and electrical cable, the second for the drainage pipe. It must be laid lower than the others so that it does not leak into communications in an emergency.

If two blocks are mounted back to back, the hole must be strictly aligned (measure on your own block where the connection ports are located)

Then we install the brackets for the outdoor unit. If we are talking about a high-rise building, you will need climbing equipment and skills to work at heights. This block must also hang strictly horizontally, so when marking the holes we also use a level. When installing brackets, we install fasteners in each hole, no matter how many there are - this is a prerequisite. Standard fasteners are 10*100 mm anchors. More is possible, less is highly undesirable.

After the brackets are secured, the outdoor unit is installed. We also attach the block to all the fastenings that are available. This is the only way to guarantee that it will remain in place under any conditions.

Laying communications

The two blocks are connected by an electrical wire and two copper tubes. There is also a drainage pipe leading through the wall. All these communications must be correctly selected, connected, laid and secured.

Copper tubes

We start with copper pipes. One is larger in diameter, the other is smaller. The dimensions are indicated in the instructions for the air conditioner. We cut off a piece of the required length with a pipe cutter, remove burrs from the edges with a special tool, straightening and leveling the cut. It is undesirable to use a regular saw, as well as a file to remove burrs - there will definitely be sawdust inside the pipe, which will get into the system and quickly destroy the compressor.

Heat-insulating tubes are placed on the prepared pipes. Moreover, the thermal insulation must be continuous and extend inside the wall as well. The joints of pieces of thermal insulation must be glued with metallized tape, ensuring a very tight fit of the edges. The quality of thermal insulation is important, since condensation will form on uninsulated sections of the pipes, and it can drain inside the wall, causing frozen streaks, destroying the wall.

Copper tubes wrapped in thermal insulation must be passed through the hole in the wall. Before doing this, be sure to carefully seal the edge that will be inserted into the wall so that dust does not get inside the pipe (or better yet, securely plug both ends immediately after cutting and leave the plugs until the connection begins). This is a very important point, since dust will quickly damage the compressor.

Cable and drainage

The situation is simpler with an electrical cable. Each wire is terminated with special lugs, installing them on conductors stripped of insulation and crimping them with pliers. The prepared cable is connected according to the diagram in the instructions.

On the indoor and outdoor units, above the ports for connecting copper pipes, there is a removable plate, under which there are connectors for connecting cables. Before you start installing the split system yourself, remove the plates, consider what will need to be connected and where - it will be easier to work with later. Especially with an external unit.

Connecting the drainage tube is generally simple: it is connected to the corresponding terminal on the indoor unit and brought out through the wall. The length of this tube should be such that it ends at a distance of 60-80 cm from the wall. The drainage pipe must be laid with a slope towards the exit to the street. The slope is at least 1 cm per meter of length. More is possible, less is not.

The tube must be fixed every meter so that there is no sagging in it. Condensation then accumulates in them, which may end up on your floor or furniture. When you pass the tube through a hole in the wall, it is also better to plug it with something.

Indoors, pipes and cables are usually wrapped with metallized tape into a single bundle. Then they are fixed to the wall in several places, and a plastic box is attached on top. Usually it is taken white or a color matching the finish.

If you wish, you can hide all the tubes in the wall - cut a route in the wall, lay it there and, after checking its functionality, wall it up. But this is a rather risky option, since in order to repair something you will need to dismantle the wall.

Connecting blocks

In general, there are no special secrets here. We connect the communications stretched through the hole in the wall to the appropriate connectors. There are no problems with connecting the cable - you connect wires of the same color to the terminals that are already connected to them. In this case, you definitely can’t go wrong.

If the height difference in the installation of blocks exceeds 5 meters, it is necessary to make a loop to catch the oil (we lay copper pipes in this way) dissolved in freon. If the difference is lower, we do not make any loops.

Drainage

There are two ways to drain drainage from a split system - into the sewer or just outside, outside the window. The second method is more common among us, although it is not very correct.

Connecting the drainage tube is also easy. A corrugated hose is easily pulled onto the outlet of the drainage system of the indoor unit (a tube with a plastic tip at the bottom of the unit). To keep it securely, you can tighten the connection with a clamp.

The same applies to drainage from the outdoor unit. Its exit is at the bottom. Often they leave everything as is, and the water just drips down, but it’s probably better to also put on a drainage hose and remove the moisture from the walls.

Outdoor unit drainage

If you are using a polymer pipe rather than a hose, you will need to select an adapter that will allow you to connect the air conditioner outlet and the pipe. You will have to look on the spot, because situations are different.

When laying the drainage pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns and certainly not allow sagging - condensation will accumulate in these places, which is not at all good. As has been said more than once, the tube is laid out with a slope. The optimal is 3 mm per 1 meter, the minimum is 1 mm per meter. Throughout its entire length it is fixed to the wall, at least every meter.

Freon circulation system

It is somewhat more difficult to connect copper pipes. They are laid out carefully on the walls, avoiding kinks and creases. For bending, it is better to use a pipe bender, but you can get by with a spring bender. In this case, sharp turns should also be avoided, but in order not to bend the tubes.

The ports on the outdoor unit look like this. It's the same on the inside.

From the beginning we connect the tubes in the indoor unit. We unscrew the nuts from the ports on it. As the nuts are loosened, a hissing sound is heard. This is nitrogen coming out. This is normal - nitrogen was pumped in at the factory so that the insides do not oxidize. When the hissing stops, take out the plugs, remove the nut, put it on the tube, and then begin rolling.

Rolling

First, remove the plugs from the pipes and check the edge. It should be smooth, round, without burrs. If the cross-section becomes not round during cutting, use a calibrator. This is a small device that can be found in any store. It is inserted into the pipe, scrolled, leveling the cross-section.

The edges of the tubes are carefully aligned over a distance of 5 cm, after which the edges are flared so that they can be connected to the inlet/outlet of the blocks, creating a closed system. The correct execution of this part of the installation is very important, since the freon circulation system must be sealed. Then you will not need to refill the air conditioner soon.

When flaring, hold the pipe with the hole facing down. Again, so that copper particles do not get inside, but spill out onto the floor. It is clamped in the holder so that 2 mm sticks out. Exactly like that, no more, no less. We clamp the tube, install a flaring cone, and tighten it, applying considerable effort (the tube is thick-walled). Flaring is complete when the cone goes no further. We repeat the operation on the other side, then with the other tube.

If you haven’t rolled pipes before, it’s better to practice on unnecessary pieces. The edge should be smooth, with a clear continuous border.

Port connection

Connect the flared edge of the pipe to the corresponding outlet and tighten the nut. There is no need to use any additional gaskets, sealants, or the like (prohibited). This is why they take special tubes made of high-quality copper so that they provide sealing without additional means.

You need to make a serious effort - about 60-70 kg. Only in this case will the copper flatten out, crimp the fitting, and the connection will become almost monolithic and completely airtight.

The same operation is repeated with all four outputs.

Vacuuming - why and how to do it

The last stage that completes the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands is the removal of air, moisture, and argon residues from the system. During installation, moist air from the room or from the street fills the copper tubes. If it is not removed, it will end up in the system. As a result, the compressor will work with greater load and heat up more.

The presence of moisture also negatively affects the performance of the system. The fact is that freon, which is used to fill air conditioners, contains a certain amount of oil to lubricate the elements from the inside. This oil is hygroscopic, but when saturated with water, it lubricates the insides less effectively, which leads to their premature wear.

From all this it follows that the system will work without air removal, but not for very long and with possible shutdown due to overheating (if there is such an automatic system).

There are two ways to remove air from the system: using a vacuum pump or a certain amount of freon released from the outdoor unit (it is charged at the factory and has some excess freon - just in case).

Spritz method

We unscrew the valve plugs on the ports of the external unit (they are indicated by arrows in the photo).

We will carry out operations with the lower port (larger in diameter), which sticks out perpendicular to the body. Under the cover there is a hexagon socket; select a suitable size key.

Under the cover there is a valve with a hexagon connector

Next, use this key to turn the valve 90° for one second and return it to its previous position. We let some freon into the system, which created excess pressure. We press our finger on the spool, which is located on the same port. By doing this we release a mixture of freon and the gases found there. We press literally for seconds. Part of the mixture should remain so as not to introduce a new portion of air inside.

You can repeat this 2-3 times, no more, the second time you can turn the valve located above. With a track of 2-3 meters, you can do it 3 times, with a length of 4 meters, only two. There won't be enough freon reserves for more.

When the air has almost been removed, we screw a plug onto the outlet with the spool (filling), and open the control valves (with a hexagon) completely, releasing freon into the system. We coat all joints with soap foam to make sure that they are airtight. You can run it.

Vacuum pump

This operation requires a vacuum pump, a high-pressure tube, and a group of two pressure gauges - high and low pressure.

Without opening the valves on the control valves, we connect the hose from the vacuum pump to the inlet with the spool and turn on the equipment. It should work for 15-30 minutes. During this time, all air, vapors, and nitrogen residues are drawn out.

Then the pump is turned off, the pump valve is closed but not disconnected and left for another 15-20 minutes. All this time you need to monitor the readings of the pressure gauges. If the system is sealed, there is no change in pressure, the pressure gauge needles are frozen in place. If the arrows change their position, there is a leak somewhere and needs to be fixed. You can find it using soap foam and tighten the connection (usually the problem is located at the place where the copper tubes are connected to the outputs of the blocks).

If everything is normal, without disconnecting the pump hose, fully open the valve located below. Some sounds are heard inside the system - freon is filling the system. Now, wearing gloves, quickly twist the vacuum pump hose - a certain amount of icy freon may escape from the valve, but you don’t want frostbite. Now completely unscrew the valve at the top (where the thinner tube is connected).

Why in this order? Because when filling with freon, the system is under pressure, which quickly closes the filling port when the pump is disconnected. That's all, do-it-yourself air conditioner installation is complete, you can turn it on.

To be fair, it must be said that such an operation - vacuuming - is carried out only in Russia and nearby countries. In Israel, where air conditioners work all year round, they do nothing like this. Why is a question to ponder.

Most residents of our vast Motherland, one way or another, face the problem of summer heat! Each of us understands that the best salvation from the heat in the apartment is a split system. The process of purchasing it is accompanied by two main questions - where to install the air conditioner in the apartment and? Today I will tell you about the most successful options for the location of the air conditioner.

When we are just planning to purchase a “split”, many have no idea where in the apartment it should be located. For the first time, we think about where it is even possible to place the device so that it works correctly and efficiently. Many people have two versions in their heads:

• the first is the installation of one large air conditioner for the entire apartment (usually somewhere in the corridor);
• the second version is the installation of one or more split systems in certain rooms.

I stick to the second option, when the “split” is calculated for one room. And it’s even better when its power takes into account a small margin. Then the neighboring rooms can be partially cooled.

Location of several air conditioners in the main rooms

This split placement option has 3 important advantages:

1. In the desired room (with the doors closed) the temperature that is comfortable for you will be most accurately maintained. Precisely adjusting the temperature during sleep is VERY IMPORTANT for health, and not just for comfort.
2. If “condensers” (with) are installed in the main rooms, then the entire apartment (including the corridor) will be provided with coolness, when needed.
3. During the day, only those rooms in which you spend most of your time will be cooled. There is no point in “freezing” the entire apartment when you spend the whole day in one room. For example, when welcoming guests, you can provide the entire apartment with coolness, and at night maintain the temperature only in the bedrooms.

Installation of one large air conditioner in the hallway

The option of installing an air conditioner in the hallway also has the right to life! The main advantage of this installation is that it eliminates the impact of direct cold flow on people. But the BIG downside is that it will be difficult to get the "correct" temperature in individual rooms (accurate temperature is very important for health). Each case of such installation must be considered separately. But please note that:

• choose the correct power of the device;
• take care of the reliable removal of condensate (discharge of drainage into the sewer has its own characteristics);
• supply power for a powerful air conditioner from the switchboard (power supply options from sockets are no longer suitable);
• take into account the weight of the blocks during installation;
• take into account the entire “route”.

Basic rules when choosing a location for the air conditioner

In living rooms there are places where a person spends most of the time. Let's call them “rest zones” of a person. These include primarily:

We understand perfectly well that in most apartments it is difficult to find a place where the “conder” will not affect a person’s “rest zone”. But in any layout there is the most “harmless” position of the device.

There is one myth - some people imagine that the cold is concentrated at the location of the air conditioner (they say that it will only be cool in front of the unit or in the place where it “blows”). That's bullshit! If the doors and windows of the room are closed, the temperature will be distributed evenly throughout the room! No matter where in the room there is an internal split unit. Only if the doors are open can you feel that the air-conditioned room is cooler than the hallway.

All air conditioners have the ability to adjust the direction of air flow. But you must understand that air is primarily a gas! It will not “fly” like a stone to where you directed it (where you turned the blinds). In any case, the flow of cold air will “dissipate” throughout the room. OF COURSE, the movement of cold air will be felt stronger directly opposite the block.

If you need coolness to also flow into the corridor, then there is no need to place the block opposite the door. When the door is open, the coolness will “come out” of the room in any case. The location of the air conditioner strictly opposite the door can “play” only to a small extent (the entire air flow will not fly like a solid object in one direction).

Where is it better to install an air conditioner in a two-room apartment?

It's not uncommon to hear this question. I have already partially answered by expressing my opinion. Namely, I said that it is more effective to install an air conditioner in a specific room, and not in the corridor. So, in which rooms is it better to install the device? I will give several recommendations with which you can determine the placement of blocks for a specific case.

A “kopeck piece” often consists of three “living” rooms – a living room, a bedroom and a kitchen. For most of us, an apartment is primarily a place to relax. If this is so, then we determine where we rest and sleep most. I believe that the bedroom should have priority in this regard. Since any person spends almost a third of his life sleeping! If the apartment is also a place of work, then we determine for ourselves where we spend the most time.

We calculate the second priority room using the same principle. If you find it difficult to choose, then I suggest choosing the living room (where we also relax a lot).

After we have determined the priorities for the rooms, WE CONSIDER YOUR FINANCIAL CAPABILITIES AND DESIRE. If Are you planning to get by with just one air conditioner?, then we put it according to your needs (I recommend it in the bedroom).

If your budget allows, then an excellent solution would be to install “cond units” in two main rooms (bedroom and living room, for example). And at the same time, it is better to take into account the small power reserve. For example, if the living room and bedroom each have an area of ​​15 square meters, then you can put a “nine” of 2.7 kW in each (although a “seven” with a power of 2 kW would be quite suitable for each of the rooms!). This replacement will not cost much more, but in this situation, life-giving coolness will “reach” even into the corridor and kitchen.

If there is no money at all, then install air conditioners in every living room (bedroom, living room, kitchen).

Where to install air conditioning in the bedroom

In many apartments the bedroom area is 10-14 square meters. There is usually a window opposite the front door. “Traditionally” in such a room there is a bed opposite which there is a TV.

In this case, there are the following options for installing the air conditioner (sometimes called “side mounting”, since the hole in the wall is drilled to the side of the unit, and not under it):

• on the wall with the TV (closer to the wall with the window);
• on the wall where the head of the bed is located (closer to the wall with the window). If you are interested in a specific distance from the curtains, then read the article where I indicated.

If you choose between these two methods, then it is safer to place the indoor unit above the head of the bed (other things being equal). This is due to the fact that the cold flow from the block is less directed downward than in a straight line (if the block is placed opposite the bed, there will be a greater likelihood of cold air entering the sleeping area). But if there is a computer desk opposite the block, then you will have to choose the “lesser of evils”.

An equally effective option is also possible - placing the block “in the aisle” (between the foot of the bed and the TV). It is better to discuss this and other cases of placing an indoor unit on site with specialists. Since most of these options require agreement on specific technical and financial issues.

In order for you to imagine what other options there may be for the arrangement of “split” blocks, I provide a link to the article “”. If you are deciding where to buy an air conditioner, then I advise you to look at the link to one of the popular online stores of climate control equipment.

Installing an air conditioner requires experience in such work, as well as theoretical training. In most cases, malfunctions in the operation of this system occur due to non-compliance with installation and connection rules.

Self-installation of air conditioning

Before installing an air conditioner, you should know the sequence of steps:

1. Selecting a location for installation.
2. Hang the indoor unit and then the outdoor unit.
3. Laying communications.
4. Setting up the correct operation of the system.

What you need to install an air conditioner yourself

In order to do all the work yourself, you will need a set of tools. For installation you will need:

1. High power hammer drill. With its help, through holes are made that allow pipes and cables to be routed to connect the outdoor and indoor units.
2. Pipe cutter It is useful for cutting copper pipes. You will also need a file, which can be used to remove burrs on pipes.
3. A pipe bender or spring to give pipes the required shape.
4. Drill and drill bits of different diameters.
5. Flaring machine and calibrator.
6. A wall chaser, which is useful when laying a groove in a wall. It can be replaced with a hammer or sledgehammer, but this will make the work much more difficult and time-consuming.
7. Screwdrivers, hexagons, level, hammer and other tools that may come in handy along the way.
8. Building level.

What may be useful for installing an air conditioner

In addition to tools, you will also need materials:

1. Copper seamless pipes, which are necessary for the refrigeration and air conditioning system. Typically, the length of the pipe is equal to the length of the route in the wall plus 30-40 cm. The diameter will depend on the requirements of the air conditioner manufacturer.
2. Electrical cable - its quantity is usually indicated in the instructions for the device, but it is better to take it with a reserve.
3. Drainage pipe - this will require a special one or a polypropylene water pipe. Its length should be 80 cm longer than the track.
4. Pipe insulation - a rubber sleeve is best suited.
5. Plastic box - it will be needed to hide the route in the wall.
6. Fasteners for the outdoor unit - usually ready-made corners and brackets are purchased.
7. Bolts, fasteners.

How to install air conditioning in an apartment yourself

First you need to decide on the installation location and its method. Air conditioners are installed in apartments, the external and internal units of which are connected by a pipe containing wires and freon.

Important! It is better to install an air conditioner yourself in the spring or summer.

To properly install the air conditioner yourself, you should first study the instructions. It lists the necessary materials that will be required during the work process. It is better to purchase them in advance.

The sequence of actions will also be indicated there; in almost all cases they are identical:

• The locations of the block, route and all other devices are marked on the wall.

Route for system devices

• It is necessary to mark the locations of the wiring in the wall. This can be done using a special device.
• Next, the plate of the indoor unit is attached. It should be horizontal (a building level will help to level it). Then the plate itself is applied and the places for drilling holes are marked. After that, they are drilled and fasteners are inserted there.
• Then the plate is put in place and carefully secured.
• The outdoor unit is installed using the same scheme.

• The evenness of the installation is checked and everything is carefully secured.
• Using a puncher, a through hole is made through which communications will pass.

After these steps, a route is laid in the wall.

Important! The number of fasteners should be equal to the number of holes in the block. Otherwise, the structure may not support its weight.

How to install an external unit

All work begins with the installation of the condenser; suitable brackets are selected that will support the weight of the air conditioner. It is better to attach them to the wall itself, and not to the insulation or cladding of the room.

Mounting the system on the facade of a high-rise building

To protect the system from adverse environmental influences, it is covered with a visor.

The drainage pipe from the external unit must be discharged into the sewer.

How to install the indoor unit

The distance between two units should be proportional to the power of the system. The smaller it is, the better the system works.

It is for this reason that the indoor unit is installed on the same wall as the outdoor unit. If this cannot be done, then the closest location is selected.

It is important to consider that:

1. Air conditioners cannot be installed above the bed.
2. The distance to the ceiling must be at least 10 cm.
3. Do not place above windows or radiators, or in an unventilated area.
4. The air conditioner should not be placed close to furniture.

You should ensure free access to the device, this will improve its performance and allow it to be cleaned in a timely manner.

Installation of the indoor unit is almost the same as the external one. First you should choose a location, then attach the brackets, and the evaporator on them. The only difference is that before installing the indoor unit, you need to drill a hole for the freon tube.

After installing the entire system, the two units are connected and the air conditioner is connected to the network.

How to connect blocks

The air conditioner units must be connected by copper pipes (2 pieces) and cable. They can be laid on the wall and hidden in a special box, or in a groove. In this case, you will need to make a groove. But first you need to drill a hole in the wall, which is made after installing the fasteners. Then the connection of blocks begins, for this you will need:

1. Pipes with larger and smaller diameters on which thermal insulation is applied.
2. They are then pushed through the hole in the wall and bent using a pipe bender.
3. Special tips are put on both sides of the pipes to protect them.
4. The wire is also inserted into the hole and connected according to the instructions. Each block has terminal blocks to which the wires will be connected, according to their colors.
5. Then a drain pipe is connected to a specific outlet of the indoor unit. Its second end is led out onto the street.
6. The drainage must be carefully fixed to prevent it from sagging.

Connecting system blocks

If installation of a plastic box is required, then all communications should be tied into a bundle. This can be done using zip ties or metallic tape.

How to connect an air conditioner to the mains

At the final stage of installation, the copper pipes and air conditioner drainage are connected to the electrical network according to the diagram. With the latter, things are much simpler; there is an outlet at the bottom of the indoor unit, and that’s where the drainage is inserted.

After this, you need to connect the copper pipes. You need to start work with the indoor unit. There are two ports on its side wall, one with large fittings and the other with small ones. You can start with anyone.

The whole work process is as follows:

1. You need to remove the nuts from the copper pipe connection points.
2. Then the plugs are removed and the edges are checked for evenness.
3. Union nuts are put on the pipes. It is important not to confuse the direction of the thread.
4. The edges of the pipes are flared and clamped in the holder.
5. The roller is installed and the screw is tightened.
6. Rolling should be completed after the cylinder stops descending.
7. The flared edge is guided to the outlet of the indoor unit and connected using a union nut.
8. The external unit is connected in the same way.

Connecting the air conditioner to the power supply yourself

The electrical circuit for connecting an air conditioner at home can only be single-phase. This can be done through an outlet or using a wire connected to the electrical panel.

Using a socket

First you need to lay the cable from the evaporator to the outdoor module. For this:

• A wire is laid to connect the blocks.
• A line is drawn to the electrical panel. This includes a cable and a circuit breaker for overload protection.
• If the devices have average power, then they can be connected without such a line. This is done directly into the outlet.

Important! The air conditioner can operate at different powers, so the circuit breaker should be installed on the connection line and near the outlet.

How to choose a socket

It must meet the following requirements:

• Have reliable grounding.
• Comply with the air conditioner manufacturer's specifications.
• All wires must be copper.
• The socket must be connected to the panel via a circuit breaker.

Socket for air conditioning system

Using a separate cable

This method is considered the most reliable and safe, especially if you install a shutdown protection device that will protect the system from voltage surges.

Requirements for this connection:

1. Mandatory presence of a device or circuit breaker.
2. All components must be copper.
3. The diameter of the wires must correspond to the size specified by the manufacturer.
4. A separate ground must be created for the entire line.

Then all cables are laid, and the operation of all components of the system is checked.

Height from air conditioner to ceiling

The most optimal height at which to hang an air conditioner is considered to be 10 cm from the ceiling. This will ensure the correct flow of cool air passes through the top. In this case, there will be enough space for air circulation. However, for more powerful air conditioners, this distance can be increased by 5-10 cm.

The distance is calculated from the baseboard

How to install a mobile air conditioner

A mobile air conditioner is much easier to install than any other. But here, too, some work skills will be required. The following set of tools is also required:

1. Dense plastic (thickness 10-12 mm). It will be needed to create a barrier between the cool air in the room and the warm air outside.
2. Saw for plastic.
3. Masking tape or tape used to secure the sheet.
4. Polyurethane foam or any sealant that will ensure water and air tightness.

Mobile device installation option

It is best to place the mobile air conditioner near a window, while avoiding breaks in the air outlet hose. The installation sequence is as follows:

1. All necessary measurements and the diameter of the air vent are taken.
2. A hole is cut for it. It should be 3-4 cm smaller than the pipe itself. This will help secure it tightly.
3. The plexiglass is being sealed. This can be done using adhesive tape, sealant or foam.
4. You need to open the window frame and fix the plexiglass insert there. This can be done using the same tape or sealant.
5. After this, you can install the monoblock itself. To do this, select a place for its installation, insert a drainage hose into the air vent, and insert it into the exhaust hole of the monoblock. The other end of the hose goes outside.
6. After 2-3 hours you can turn on the air conditioner.

Installing an air conditioner without a vacuum pump

If the length of the route is less than 5 meters, then the air conditioner can be installed without a vacuum pump. To do this you will need:

1. Unscrew all plugs on the ports.
2. Next, take a hex key, which is selected according to the size of the lower port.
3. Next, the key is inserted into the port and rotated 90 degrees. At this time, freon comes out, which, together with air and freon, creates excess pressure.
4. There is a spool on the port, which is compressed for a while. At this time, a mixture of gases emerges, which removes air and argon.
5. Next, we repeat the previous steps. If the route is 4 meters, then this will be enough, if 3, then it should be repeated again.
6. A plug is screwed onto the outlet with the spool.
7. Using a hexagon, the lower and upper ports are opened, into which freon is admitted.
8. The system is ready for use.

Installing air conditioning on high floors

Installation of air conditioning on the top floors of the house can be done on the roof. The distance between the blocks will be approximately 15-20 meters. This can be done using a crane and a sliding ladder.

If this option is not suitable, then the system can be installed on a balcony or under a canopy. In this case, the following points must be taken into account:

1. The walls where the system is installed must be strong and able to withstand heavy weight.
2. Installation should not be carried out on aerated concrete walls.
3. Do not attach the system to a ventilated facade, as this will lead to noise and vibration.
4. Everything should be installed smoothly and without distortions.
5. The distance between the external unit and the wall must be at least 10 cm.
6. You should not install the air conditioner on a glassed-in balcony, as this will impair its performance.
7. Be sure to install a canopy over the external unit, which will preserve the integrity of the system.

Requirements for installing air conditioners

In order for the air conditioner to bring maximum benefit, you must follow some rules:

1. Choose exactly the model that matches the parameters of the room (size, availability of equipment, etc.).
2. Correct installation.
3. Compliance with the rules of operation and prevention.

The air conditioner has two blocks, each of which is assigned certain functions. The outer one is the condenser, and the inner one is the evaporator. They are connected using wires and tubes in which freon operates.

It is very important to choose the right location to install the system. In this case, you should take into account the weight of the block, free access to it, etc.

The air conditioner should be installed closer to the window

The outdoor unit must be located on a strong wall that can support a weight of more than 60 kg. Installation should not be carried out on aerated concrete. The external unit must be protected from environmental influences. This can be done with the help of fences and canopies.

When installing the indoor unit, please consider:

1. The distance from the external to the internal unit should be minimal. This will ensure higher efficiency.
2. The evaporator must not be obscured by curtains, furniture, etc.
3. There must be a distance of at least 3 meters between the furniture and the indoor unit.
4. The system cannot be installed above batteries.
5. Provide free access.
6. The distance from the block to the ceiling must be at least 10 cm.

It is necessary to ensure tightness and reliability of the air conditioner mounting. If a line is used to connect the blocks, then vacuumization of the connections will be required.

What is the maximum length of the air conditioner route?

As is already known, the larger the route, the lower the power of the entire system. The air conditioner's passport indicates the maximum route distance. Typically the vertical distance is 7 meters and the horizontal distance is 15 meters.

How to hide an air conditioner in the interior

Typically, an air conditioner is installed during renovation, so it is better to choose an option that will seamlessly fit into the interior. If this fails, you can try:

1. Paint the air conditioner the same color as the wall.
2. Place it above the front door.
3. Purchase a built-in split system that can be hidden in a suspended ceiling.
4. A floor-standing air conditioner can be hidden in decorative panels.
5. Place the air conditioner in a shelf or cabinet where free air circulation will be ensured.
6. You can make a niche for the block.

In this case, everyone decides which option will be more convenient. In any case, you should not heavily block the passage to the fan, as this can lead to overheating and rapid failure.

You can hide the air conditioner under the ceiling

During the hot season, air conditioning is a must. It is very important to install it correctly, otherwise the entire system will not be able to function and will quickly fail. If you do the installation yourself, you should follow all the rules, and before doing so, study the manufacturer’s installation instructions. This will help you get all the work done quickly and easily.