Raspberries in spring - care and pest control in raspberries. Proper care for raspberries in spring How to feed raspberries in April

Proper and thorough spring care for raspberries is the key to a plentiful harvest of berries. Negligence or erroneous actions of the gardener during this important period can lead to poor fruiting of plants not only in the coming season, but also the next year. For all the seeming unpretentiousness of raspberries, you need to know some rules and secrets that help you get the most delicious, large berries.

To determine the optimal start time for spring work in raspberries, the easiest way is to focus on the average daily temperature - it should be about + 5 ° C.

The first actions are cleaning last year's leaves and branches. This stage is carried out immediately, as soon as the last snow melts. The importance of spring cleaning is due to the danger of infection of the plant - it is in the litter of last year's foliage that the main enemies of raspberries hibernate. Since they crawl out of their wintering places from the very end of the winter cold, it is important not to miss the moment of spring cleaning. All collected raspberry leaves and branches must be burned, since there is a high probability of their being affected by fungi, diseases, and viruses.

After the end of the last spring frosts, you can remove the shelter, which was installed during a severe cold snap. Depending on how the raspberries were wrapped for the winter, they should be opened.

There are two popular options for warming raspberries for the winter:

1. Bending the shoots to the ground, fixing them with pins to the ground and abundant sprinkling of snow mass during snowfalls - during the first warm days, the snow begins to melt quickly. The skids must be disconnected from the improvised reinforcement and straightened.

2. Bending branches to the ground, covering them with polyethylene or straw - straw is eliminated, because in winter it can not only warm up, but also multiply fungal bacteria in itself, which actively move to raspberry foliage in warm weather. Under polyethylene, you should not leave the plant warm for a long time - a greenhouse effect quickly occurs in it, when heated, condensation forms. The process provokes moistening of the shoots and their further decay.

Cleaning should begin immediately after the spring sun begins to warm. Otherwise, it is possible to miss the occurrence of fungal diseases and the occurrence of buds affected by pests.

Watering raspberries in the spring is recommended as needed. When the weather is sunny, dry, and there has been no precipitation for a long time, watering raspberries in the spring in such weather is a must. But with soil moisture, excessive watering is not recommended.

Important! The introduction of nutrient moisture is especially important when flowers are being formed and berries are being formed. If you do not water the raspberries in the spring at this moment, then the yield may decrease by 3 times.

Watering raspberries in the spring should be carried out not only by the root method, but also by sprinkling. However, this procedure is dangerous due to the appearance of burns on the foliage and the attachment of pathogenic bacteria that cause diseases.

The best way out of this situation is a drip irrigation system. With such irrigation, the soil will always be sufficiently moistened, but not to such an extent that diseases can develop.

Thus, watering is one of the important measures to increase the yield and an important element in the care of raspberries in the spring. The main thing is not to overmoisten the soil, provoking the emergence of pathogenic bacteria and pests.

Top dressing is applied while digging the soil under the raspberries. It is dangerous to go deep, so loosening is possible only 15 cm deep into the soil. Stronger penetration threatens to damage the root system of the plant.

Important! Top dressing is applied immediately into the soil. In early March, it is recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers. This time is the optimal period for top dressing in order to increase green mass.

What is the best way to feed raspberries in spring? The best fertilizer is urea. It is scattered under the base of the bush, immediately digging. After top dressing, water the plant abundantly to dissolve the nutrients as soon as possible. Read more about when, how and how to feed raspberries in spring in THIS article.

The last stage of top dressing is mulching. For this, straw, manure or sawdust is suitable.

This important procedure for caring for raspberries in the spring is carried out immediately after the removal of the winter shelter. The main rule is to be in time before the awakening of the plant and the abundant movement of juice along the shoots of the bush. The optimal period for the procedure is the beginning of April. At this time, a high positive temperature has been maintained for a long time, but the earth is still not warm enough.

Important! If you miss the right moment, then when pruning shoots with sprouted buds, it is possible to accidentally break them off or mechanically damage them. Such actions will provoke a decrease in the yield of the plant.

In the spring, health and rejuvenation pruning should be carried out. First of all, all the shoots that were damaged during the winter are viewed - broken, frozen or mechanically injured. They should be removed by healthy and strong kidneys.

After that, pruning is carried out to enhance fruiting. Those bushes that are preparing to harvest this spring need to be increased in volume, provoking the growth of side branches. To do this, cut off the top growth point. Then the side shoots wake up and grow.

It is important to correctly determine the placement of the slice. It should be separated from the kidney by a distance of 5 mm. The angle also matters. It should be 45°. These rules should not be ignored, because as a result of their non-compliance, the kidneys will dry out. Both too close and too high location of the cut can lead to negative consequences. In the latter case, it will cause the part of the shoot that is above the kidney to dry out.

The cut area is usually treated with garden pitch. It can be purchased at specialized points of sale or you can cook your own garden pitch.

An important measure for caring for raspberries in the spring is its proper garter. If this operation is not carried out, then the long raspberry vine will bend down to the ground and rot. In addition, if you do not tie up raspberries and do not install trellises or supports, then the harvest will be much poorer. The lack of support leads to a loss of taste and volume of the fruit. Proper tying promotes fruit formation in the sun, good ventilation and control of possible pests and diseases.

Important! Activities are required to be carried out in the period until the buds have blossomed. Otherwise, there is a possibility of damage to young released green leaves.

Growers mainly use two ways to garter raspberries in spring:

Bush- when all the shoots are going to one peg. This method allows you to quickly tie up the plant, but does not promise uniform penetration of air and sunlight to all berries.

tapestry- a wire is stretched along the bushes, to which the shoots are tied. This is the best option, allowing the berries to ripen as quickly as possible, fully ventilated and receive sufficient sunlight.

A trellis for raspberries is a special design, which is a series of pillars. Between them, at a certain height, several rows of metal wire or reinforced rope are stretched; reinforcement can also be used. In practice, two main types of tapestries are used: single-lane or two-lane and T-shaped. According to experienced gardeners, the first type of trellis is best used in small areas. The second is for remontant raspberries.

Raspberry garter scheme on a two-lane trellis:

The main purpose of the described support structure is to hold raspberry shoots along a stretched wire or twine. In addition to fixing the position of raspberry bushes during the growing season, the trellis also performs another function, preparing crops for wintering. In this situation, the plants are tilted to the ground and tied to the bottom row of wire.

T-trellis for raspberries

As the name implies, the described structure is made in the form of T-shaped supports. The main material for the arrangement of racks of such a trellis are considered to be wooden beams, metal pipes, as well as cuttings of reinforcement. Typically, such elements in the upper part are fixed perpendicular to each other. The rows of wire must be fixed along the protruding edges of the plank. During the formation of the bush, the shoots are laid on different sleeves of the trellis. In this case, young growth begins to form in the center of the plant, which is almost not obscured by the main fruit-bearing plants.

Raspberry garter scheme on a T-shaped trellis:

Fertilizing the soil with nutrients is not enough to get a bountiful harvest. Insect pests and raspberry diseases stand in the way of picking berries. Consider how you can prevent a meeting with them.

The "grandfather's method", which is considered one of the cheapest and most effective - boiling water - will effectively help fight various diseases and pests. Not all gardeners consider this method to be truly effective. However, it has shown its effectiveness in many cases, especially in the fight against aphids.

Stages of work:
. Tie up the bushes so that the shoots are more closely spaced.
. Boil a large amount of water.
. Pour boiling water into a watering can and pour over the bush.

You need to water both the branches and the center of the bush. If desired, to enhance the effect, you can add a solution of potassium permanganate, iron sulfate or salt to the water.

Raspberry Pest Control

Raspberry care in the spring necessarily includes pest control. Among insects, lovers of eating raspberries are the raspberry beetle and the raspberry fly.

In order not to have to share the crop with insects, you need to take timely measures to destroy them. raspberry beetle likes to lay larvae in the flower bud, which further interferes with the formation of berries on the branch.

The easiest way to prevent this is to carefully examine the raspberry bushes and, when you see a beetle, shake it out. You can not let him fall to the ground - all your efforts to remove the beetle will be in vain. Raspberry beetle Raspberry beetles (as well as weevils) should be shaken out on a litter, so that later there is an opportunity to destroy them.

To fight raspberry fly broad spectrum insecticides are used. For example, karbofos - they are sprayed with shrubs in late April or early May.

Also, one of the options for dealing with a fly is cutting raspberry shoots. If the tops begin to fade, it means that the raspberry fly has settled in them. Having removed the raspberry shoots, it is necessary to burn it.

Brings a lot of trouble and raspberry gall midge. This insect lays its larvae directly into the stems of raspberries. It is easy to detect: if the gall midge is inside the branch, then a growth forms in this place. Having found a raspberry gall midge, it is necessary to cut off the affected branches without regret and burn them.

Raspberry disease control

The most common raspberry disease is gray rot. It is especially raging after prolonged downpours. If there is a grouping of plants in the garden, this will help the rot to quickly spread to other shrubs.

Fitosporin or Bordeaux mixture will help protect against gray rot. Branches can be treated with these solutions even during the growing season of the plant. Gray rot With the defeat of purple spotting on raspberries, in particular, at the base of the leaves, dark spots form. The bark begins to crack, and the shoots die off. To combat this fungal disease, the drug "Zircon" is used.

With this preparation, shoots and young stems can be re-sprayed before the start of the winter period. This will help prevent spores of fungal diseases from starting to multiply next year.

There are diseases that can only be stopped by the complete destruction of raspberry bushes:
Curly raspberry- the leaves begin to shrink rapidly and acquire a brick hue.
raspberry mosaic- the leaves are painted in a yellow-green tint in the form of a mosaic.
Witch's broom- manifests itself in the rapid growth of root growth, which does not develop further.

If you notice these signs of disease in the raspberries, you must urgently dig out the diseased shrubs and immediately burn them. These diseases spread quickly in the garden, which can negate all your efforts to care for raspberries.

In addition to all the activities that are carried out in the first months of spring, in addition, if necessary, the plant is subject to transplantation. For transplanting raspberries in the spring, an experienced farmer must choose a place and prepare the soil for planting.

An important parameter for transplanting an old or planting a young seedling is high-quality planting material. The rhizomes of such a cutting should be at least 15 cm, and the shoots should not be yellow and dull.

The soil should be specific - loamy with a large volume of humus contained inside. Therefore, during the preparation of the land, it is recommended to introduce rotted manure and humus into it.

The place for planting is chosen sunny, without shading by other fruit crops. The closest proximity to apple trees, roses, pears or tomatoes is highly discouraged. Various pests often crawl from these plants, infecting the entire raspberry tree.

Important! Transplantation should be carried out at a time when the night temperature does not fall below +5 ° C, before the start of the growing season. The optimal moment is the time from the end of March to the second decade of April.

Repair raspberries are more capricious than ordinary varieties. Therefore, care for remontant raspberries in spring, summer and autumn should be special. When choosing such a plant, control over the shrub should be increased, otherwise the beauty of the garden tends to dry out.

How to care for remontant raspberries in the spring so that there is a good harvest? To get a chic shrub and a bountiful harvest, you should be guided by the following rules:

✔ Choice of placement - lit, without a hint of shadow.
✔ Shelter - if the raspberries are on the blown north side, then there will be no harvest. It is planted on the south sides, in such a place that the bush is completely blocked from drafts and wind blows.
✔ An increased amount of nutrients introduced into the soil - remontant raspberries prefer a larger amount of vitamins and minerals in spring for the successful development of greenery and high-quality fruiting.
✔ Humidity - there should be no close proximity to groundwater or excessive watering. High humidity for the shrub is detrimental.

Thus, such raspberries differ slightly from ordinary varieties. If you follow the general rules for planting and caring for remontant raspberries in the spring, you can achieve a high-quality harvest not once, but 2 times during the fruiting period.

Many gardeners are trying to grow a large raspberry with delicious berries in their backyard. To achieve good results, you need to properly care for raspberries in the spring. Therefore, it is important to know what mistakes can be in this case.

The most common mistakes made by gardeners during the care of raspberries and growing in the spring are highlighted:

Important! The main thing is to properly tie up the bush, trying to saturate all the fruit-bearing branches with the sun's rays. No matter how careful care is, without lighting the fruits, they will not be saturated and large.

The Scientific and Production Association "Gardens of Russia" has been implementing the latest achievements in the selection of vegetable, fruit, berry and ornamental crops into the wide practice of amateur gardening for 30 years. In the work of the association, the most modern technologies are used, a unique laboratory of microclonal propagation of plants has been created. The main tasks of NPO "Gardens of Russia" is to provide gardeners with high-quality planting material for popular varieties of various garden plants and new products of world selection. Delivery of planting material (seeds, bulbs, seedlings) is carried out by Russian post. We offer the best varieties of raspberries zoned for central Russia and Siberia. Basically, these are varieties of an outstanding Russian breeder - Academician I.V. Kazakov. Looking forward to shopping:

However, in the harsh conditions of the Urals, it often happens that the middle part of the raspberries also freezes, where the strongest buds are located. And cutting off a healthy top with buds ready for fruiting, we must remember that this leads to the loss of a certain volume of the crop. Hence, the method of cutting the top of a raspberry is permissible when all the buds are preserved on the stem.

When the May days come, they try to mulch the entire surface of the soil in a raspberry row, until this was done in the fall. The aisles between the raspberry bushes loosen a little with a rake or a chopper. It is especially necessary to ensure that the soil where the raspberries are planted is leveled and the rows with bushes do not rise, forming ridges.

Raspberries growing on ridges can freeze slightly in winter and quickly dry out in summer.

Fertilizers for raspberries

Raspberries are known to be very responsive to the application of organic fertilizers. The bushes grow well, bring a good harvest, the soil is loose and rich in humus. In the case of poor soils, before planting seedlings, the ground must be fertilized with manure or compost. Fertilizers in the form of mulch are applied under raspberry bushes in a year or two years with a layer of 7 to 10 cm. In subsequent years, mineral fertilizers are applied.

For fertilizing raspberries, superphosphate (25 g), ammonium nitrate (12 g), 9 g of urea, potassium sulfate (16 g) are taken per 1 m 2 of each row. Fertilizers such as potash and phosphorus can be applied in the fall.

In addition to the proposed fertilizers for raspberries, mullein or bird droppings can be applied. If the mullein needs to be diluted with water 4-5 times, then bird droppings are bred 15 times. When dry mineral fertilizers are applied, first the mulch layer covered from the previous year is removed, then fertilizers are applied under the raspberries, after which the mulch is again evenly distributed over the row.

In the case when raspberries grew well over the summer, their shoots became more than 2 meters in length, then they do not fertilize them. During the drought period, raspberry bushes must be well watered.

Raspberries are best planted in autumn. But raspberry seedlings, which are grown on their own plot, can be transplanted in the spring. The condition is the preservation of intact replacement shoots that have started to grow.

Careful care of raspberries is the key to a bountiful harvest. The erroneous actions of the gardener can lead to poor fruiting of the raspberry. Therefore, you need to know some rules and secrets that help you get a lot of tasty and large berries.

The list of mandatory spring work includes pruning raspberries after winter, feeding and treating shrubs from pests.

Raspberry care begins with garter bushes. This should be done as early as possible in order to have time to carry out all the work before the start of active sap flow. Buds that are ready to open are easy to break off, and this leads to the loss of part of the crop.

In central Russia, the raspberry care season begins when the snow melts and the temperature is above zero (usually in the first half of April). In the northern regions (for example, in Buryatia), work in the raspberries begins later: in late April - early May.

The ground is very soft in spring, so be careful not to trample it as you work. Too dense soil, especially clay, prevents the normal growth of raspberries. Experienced gardeners recommend laying "paths" from boards in the raspberries.

How to prune raspberries in spring

Spring pruning is carried out in two stages. First of all, you need to remove the shoots affected by the raspberry stem gall midge. You can detect traces of the vital activity of this pest with the naked eye, especially while there are no leaves on the bushes. Swellings are visible in the lower part of the shoots and stems. If they are cut, gall midge larvae are found.

Damaged, severely frozen and weak shoots are also removed. Regardless of the form of planting raspberries (bush or tape), thinning is carried out, since thickening of the plantings has a bad effect on the crop. With a tape form of cultivation, up to 25 stems per linear meter are left, with a bush - 8-12.

It is advisable to trim the raspberries so that they grow more or less freely, otherwise they will receive little sun and nutrition.

The second time the raspberries are cut when it starts to grow. The tops of the shoots are shortened to the first well-wintered bud. Identifying this bud is not difficult: it should be of normal size and color and look as ripe as the rest.

Properly pruning raspberries in the spring will result in a more abundant harvest and longer fruiting time.

How to fertilize raspberries in spring?

Raspberries need additional feeding, especially if they grow on poor soils. The most important fertilizers for raspberries are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, but she also loves organic ones.

Nitrogen top dressings are usually applied in spring and summer, as they reduce frost resistance and are not suitable for use in autumn.

Lack of nitrogen leads to slower growth of shoots, shredding of leaves and a sharp decrease in yield. The lack of phosphorus is manifested by the weakening of the shoots, and the deficiency of potassium not only adversely affects the yield, but also greatly reduces winter hardiness.

It is best to feed raspberries in the spring according to the following scheme.

1. Immediately after the snow melts, even before the soil is loosened, nitrogen fertilizers are applied (10-15 g of ammonium nitrate or 10 g of urea per 1 sq.m).

It should be borne in mind that nitrogen fertilizers acidify the soil, and raspberries do not tolerate high acidity. Therefore, experienced gardeners advise, along with nitrogen fertilizers, to bring a glass of ash under each bush. Ammonium nitrate can be replaced with potassium nitrate: it also contains nitrogen, but does not acidify the soil.

Plants should be well watered before fertilizing. Some gardeners use complex feeding of their own preparation: ammonium nitrate, potassium and superphosphate in a ratio of 1:1:2. Dosage - 100 g per 10 liters of water.

2. After loosening the soil, organic fertilizers are applied as mulch. It can be humus, peat compost, straw manure, etc.

3. In May, raspberries are fed with mullein, diluted at the rate of 500 ml per bucket of water. Fertilizer consumption - about 5 liters per 1 sq.m of planting.

Supporters of exclusively natural top dressing successfully manage to replace mineral fertilizers with organic matter.

Raspberry fertilizers without "chemistry":

• fresh manure diluted with water 1:10;
• rabbit, goat (1:10) or bird (1:20) droppings;
• tincture of weeds (nettle and comfrey). For preparation, pour 1 kg of a mixture of fresh weeds into 10 liters of water, insist for 7-10 days with daily stirring. The resulting product is diluted with water (1:10) and raspberries are fertilized at the rate of 2 liters per bush.

Tips on how to properly fertilize raspberries with organic matter

• Dry soil before top dressing should be properly moistened so as not to burn the raspberry roots;
• Fertilizer is applied in cloudy, cool weather: the sun and high air temperature lead to undesirable chemical reactions;
• Work should be carried out very carefully, avoiding getting solutions on raspberry leaves and stems;
• Organic-based infusions cannot be tightly closed during preparation, they require air access.

Processing raspberries in the spring from pests and diseases

The main pests of raspberries: strawberry-raspberry weevil, raspberry beetle, stem fly and gall midge. Spring is the time to prevent the attack of these pests.

Do not neglect the simplest agrotechnical measures: pruning, cleaning up residues, timely digging of the soil. Weevils, gall midges, beetle larvae overwinter in damaged or dead parts of the bush and in the soil. Cleaning raspberries from fallen leaves and dry branches has not only an aesthetic, but also an obvious practical meaning.

How can you process raspberries in the spring?

Remedies for the raspberry beetle

These insects appear en masse during flowering and destroy buds, flowers and leaves; their larvae feed on berries and can destroy a significant part of the crop. Raspberries are treated from the beetle immediately after the snow melts and the shoots are tied up, abundantly spraying the bushes and the ground with a solution of Nitrafen (200 g per 10 liters of water).

Before flowering, they are treated with a mixture of infusions of marigolds and wormwood. To prepare an infusion of marigolds, take 200 g of dry crushed raw materials per 10 liters of water and infuse for 48 hours. An infusion of wormwood is made in the same proportion, but aged for no more than 2 hours. Then both infusions are mixed and filtered.

Good results are also shown by the two-time treatment of raspberries with Fitoverm and Agravertin biopreparations. Spraying is carried out in early May - early June.

Remedies for raspberry gall midge

The larvae of this insect are dangerous. They damage young shoots, cause them to die back or freeze in winter, and can promote fungus penetration, as a result of which the next year's crop is in jeopardy. Signs of damage by gall midge larvae are characteristic and easily distinguishable outgrowths ("galls") on stems, destruction of shoots.

To combat gall midge, it is necessary to examine the raspberries as carefully as possible after wintering, if growths are found, cut and burn the affected shoots. In early spring, it is recommended to loosen the ground to a depth of 5-10 cm and spray it with Fufanon (15-20 ml per 10 liters of water).

At the stage of bud appearance, raspberries are sprayed with Fufanon (10 ml per 10 liters of water, consumption - 0.2 liters per bush) or Aktellik (15 ml per 10 liters, similar consumption).

Stem fly remedies

This is one of the specific raspberry pests that affects this particular crop. Fly larvae gnaw on the tops of the shoots, which leads to decay and infection.

Prevention consists in spring mulching of tree trunks. This makes it difficult for insects to leave their wintering grounds. In early May, before flowering, raspberries can be treated with Aktellik, Fitoverm or Agravertin.

Protecting raspberries from diseases

Of the raspberry diseases, anthracnose and .

To prevent anthracnose, raspberries can be treated in early spring with a solution of Nitrafen (200 g per 10 liters of water). At the beginning of bud break, it is recommended to use Bordeaux liquid (200 g of copper sulfate and 200 g of lime per 10 liters of water).

Gray rot is a fungal disease that develops rapidly in warm and damp weather. Attacks leaves and berries. Prevent the appearance of gray rot by spraying raspberries with Bordeaux liquid: in early spring, a 3% solution is used, before flowering - 1%. Spraying Fitosporino also helps, which can be carried out at any time if the plants show signs of disease.

From folk remedies, dusting the soil with crushed charcoal or ash is used.

***

Take care of the raspberries correctly - and a generous harvest of delicious berries will not keep you waiting!

utm_campaign=transit&utm_source=mirtesen&utm_medium=pad

Raspberries are unpretentious and can practically grow in any garden, even an abandoned one. But picking berries will be very inconvenient, as the plantings will be overgrown with nettles and clogged with last year's dried stems. If you are not lazy and carry out regular care for raspberries in the garden, the harvest will be much higher and the berries will be larger.

So, how to care for raspberries so that every summer you can enjoy this tasty and sweet berry. Let's answer a few questions.

Where to plant raspberries?

For good growth and development of raspberries, loamy or sandy loamy soil is needed. The earth should be moderately moist, have a subsoil that passes moisture well. If you plant a raspberry bush on clay or light soil, the plant may die. To prevent this from happening, such soils are improved with organic fertilizers. Raspberries do not tolerate wet places. Long standing water and the close location of groundwater can lead to the death of the roots and the death of the bush. Elevated places are also not suitable. Here, raspberries will freeze in winter, and in summer the soil will quickly dry out.

There should be no rhizomes of perennial grasses on the land plot.

How to plant raspberries?

Now let's talk about how to plant raspberries. It is better to do this in the fall. The first step is to prepare the site: weed, remove weeds, destroy pests. This is especially true for the larvae of May beetles. The earth is generously fertilized 1.5 months before the planned planting. For 1 sq.m they contribute:

• 10-30 kg of manure;
• 60-80 g of superphosphate;
• 40-50 g of potassium sulfate.

If the soil is peaty, sand is added, if it is sandy or heavy clay, the amount of manure is increased. If raspberries are planted in the spring, then fertilizers are mixed with the top layer of earth from the pit a few weeks before planting. Then the roots are covered with this mixture. If the planting of raspberries in the spring is not planned and the seedlings need to be planted urgently, then they take a different composition of fertilizers for 1 pit:

• 10 kg of compost or humus;
• 50 g of potassium sulfate;
• 400 g wood ash;
• 100 g of granulated superphosphate.

Fertilizers are mixed with the top layer of soil from the planting hole and raspberry roots are immediately covered.

Note! Manure is replaced with humus, fresh manure cannot be put on the roots, there will be burns!

The place for raspberries should be well lit, protect the plant from strong winds. There should not be fruit trees next to the bush. You should not plant raspberries next to potatoes, strawberries, tomatoes. It will be good if you plant raspberries in place of gooseberries or currants.

Planting raspberries step by step:

1. First, they dig a hole with a depth and a diameter of 40-50 cm. 2 raspberry seedlings are planted in one hole.
2. Half of the pit is filled with organic and mineral fertilizers mixed with the soil of the upper layer.
3. During planting, the roots of the seedling should be spread out, carefully covered with loosened earth, filling the entire space.
4. Compact the soil well.
5. After that, the raspberries are watered abundantly. One plant should take at least a bucket of water.
6. Trim planted bushes.

If you plan to plant several bushes, then it is more expedient to dig a trench.

Between the pits there should be an interval of 70 cm, between rows - about 1.5 meters.

When to plant raspberries?

Autumn is the most favorable period to plant raspberries. It is better to carry out this work in late September or early October. Before the first frost, the seedlings will take root well. You can plant raspberries in the spring. Just wait until the soil thaws. When planting in the autumn, mandatory hilling is necessary. This will help protect the lower kidneys from damage. Newly planted raspberry bushes grow for 15-20 years. However, they give fruits up to 13 years. After this period, the rhizomes of the bushes begin to age, do not produce a crop. At the first signs of aging, the bushes are uprooted.

How to care for raspberries?

Watering

Raspberry is a moisture-loving plant. For its productive development, it is necessary to provide full-fledged watering. During the season, raspberries are watered 7 times, 2-3 buckets per linear meter of the row:

• at the end of May, when replacement shoots appear;
• twice in June if there is no rain;
• twice in July;
• the last time in early August (also in the absence of rain);
• if autumn is dry, then at the end of October (this time 1 bucket each).

Raspberries should not be watered later than August 10, excess moisture will not allow the wood of the stems to form well and will lead to purple spot disease. Two methods of irrigation are most effective: sprinkling and furrow irrigation. Irrigation is the use of a hose. For irrigation into the furrows, water is let through the furrows along the rows of plantings at a distance of 40 cm. The furrows are dug 10-12 cm deep. After moistening the soil, the furrows fall asleep and the earth is loosened.

top dressing

Nutrients are equally important for the plant. Every year, add about six kilograms of compost or humus to the ground per square meter. It is better to do this before wintering, using it as mulch. And also apply mineral fertilizers in the spring:

• 20 grams of ammonium nitrate;
• 15 grams of potassium salt;
• 30 grams of superphosphate.

Dilute in a bucket of water and feed the raspberries after watering.

loosening

Be sure to loosen the soil for the "breathing" of the roots. In the spring, you need to loosen the earth early, while there are no root processes. If they are damaged, it will take time to recover, and new shoots will not have time to mature by winter. Between the rows, the soil should be loosened by 10-12 cm. In the rows themselves, 6-8 cm will be enough. Do not forget to loosen the soil in the summer, destroy the weeds growing nearby. If a hard crust has formed on the ground, the soil should be processed immediately.

spring pruning

In the first year in early spring, the shoots are shortened by 15-20 cm to well-developed buds. This is necessary for better development of side branches and increased yield. In addition, after this procedure, the raspberry stalks will be more stable and will not “fall over” under the weight of the berries.

Garter

To plant raspberries were even, you need to stretch the wire. Usually this is done in two rows. For tying raspberries take galvanized wire. Its thickness must be at least 5 mm. One and a half meter columns are installed along the rows. A wire is stretched between them at a height of one meter. Raspberry shoots are tied to it. A year later, the design is modified. Add two rows of wire. The lower one is at a height of 30 cm, the upper one is up to 1.5 meters.

Fruiting

New, not yet lignified, raspberry shoots produce berries in the second year after planting. The first year is a period of intensive growth and the emergence of fruit buds on the shoots. The second year is fruiting. After harvesting, the shoots dry up. They are cut with secateurs and burned.

If the raspberry stem begins to dry out already when the berries ripen, it must be removed, creating favorable conditions for the formation of new shoots.

Raspberries can be harvested as early as June-July. A distinctive feature is that the berries do not ripen simultaneously on the same bush. This process lasts for a month, so the berries are removed depending on ripening. The harvest must be harvested as the raspberries turn red, excluding overripe, because then the berries quickly choke, lose juice and vitamins.

When to prune raspberries

In order for the raspberry bush to be beautiful, neat and bear fruit well, it is pruned every spring. On one bush there should be no more than seven developed shoots. Excess, old and weak new shoots are cut out, and the main ones are tied with twine to the wire. New seedlings with well-developed buds and roots are shortened to 40 cm.

If fungal diseases appear on raspberries, dry buds, bushes are cut and burned.

If you follow all the rules on how to plant raspberries, then the harvest will be a year from planting. But most of the berries can be harvested in the third year. After 10-13 years, raspberry bushes are replaced, adhering to all stages of planting.

Autumn pruning raspberries

Dense thickets of raspberries do not give a good harvest. What can not be said about neatly trimmed single bushes. Being in dense greenery, the berries ripen much worse. Raspberries grow quickly and without the formation of bushes from even plantings in 1-2 years there will be thickets. Therefore, it is important to know when to prune raspberries and how to do it. The raspberry shoot has a development cycle of two years. In the first year, buds are laid, on which berries ripen in the second year. After that, the stem dries up.

By autumn, many such fruiting shoots are formed. Therefore, autumn pruning of raspberries is carried out in the fall, the obsolete stems are completely removed with pruners and burned. Of course, you can postpone this work until spring, but this is only as a last resort, since timely pruning of raspberries before winter allows the bush not to waste nutrients on old, already unnecessary stems, but to give them to young replacement shoots.

Important! Shoots of biennial stems are subject to pruning, provided that the raspberry variety is ordinary, and not remontant.

Remontant raspberries should be treated differently. You will learn this from the article. about caring for raspberry remontant varieties. When pruning raspberries, adhere to the following rules:

• Remove the fertilized two-year-old shoots.
• Completely, to zero, cut out damaged, dried, broken and weak shoots of this year.
• In the case of heavily overgrown bushes, they should be thinned out. Leave about seven healthy and strong shoots.
• To avoid infection with dangerous pests, cut branches are burned immediately after pruning.
• Having completed the pruning procedure, the shrubs are dug in, weeds are destroyed.
• It will be good to process the remaining stems with iron sulfate.
• Do not forget to feed raspberries with fertilizers.

Shoots are cut flush with the ground, new replacement shoots will appear necessarily.

Opinions differ on the timing of pruning raspberries. Some gardeners prefer to do this immediately after harvest, others - before frost. It is better not to wait until late autumn, but immediately start pruning, protecting the plant from pests and diseases.

When pruning raspberries, there should be harmony between new and old branches. This is done so that the raspberry does not overgrow much. With free space between the bushes, raspberries will be well ventilated and receive a sufficient amount of sunlight. From this, the berries turn red faster and have a good taste. When a new shoot appears between the bushes, it is dug up and transplanted to a new place. If there is no need for it, it is immediately removed.

Preparing raspberries for winter

The best time to prepare raspberries for winter is the end of September-beginning of October. In any case, this must be done before the thermometer drops to zero degrees. The preparation of raspberries for winter includes digging and loosening the soil. Also, bushes should be bent down if there is a risk of freezing raspberries in winter.

Between rows, the soil is dug up to 15 cm between rows. In the rows, you can dig not so deep, about 10 cm. It is important to do this carefully and carefully so as not to cut the skeletal roots. This task can be dealt with using a pitchfork. When mulching the soil with fallen leaves, peat, straw manure, rotted straw, you can achieve a good harvest, and in spring it will be easier to work the soil.

Mulch is applied in a layer of 6-8 centimeters. When weeds germinate, they are immediately removed. You can mulch the ground in any area, especially arid ones, to retain additional moisture.

Before wintering raspberries, all leaves are carefully removed from the bush.

Carefully! You can damage your kidneys!

Old leaves are removed from the bottom up along the shoot. If you leave the leaves, they will become damp, rot and "burn" the kidneys, so time should be allocated for their removal. The cleaned bush is bent to the ground, fixed with wire. It is very important to lower the raspberries as low as possible so that they do not freeze out, remaining under the snow cover.

This is not all preparation for wintering. Raspberries need to be monitored throughout the winter. If necessary, add snow to keep the bush closed. At the same time, snow crust is removed for better air circulation. Snow-covered raspberry bushes are protected from frost and hares, the latter love to raid summer cottages to feast on.

You can additionally protect the plants by pouring a layer of straw 20-25 cm thick. To avoid mice attacks, it is better to take straw from a compost heap prepared in the fall. With proper care for raspberries in winter, they will survive the cold frosty months well, retaining most of the shoots. Frozen shoots are removed in the spring to avoid the development of diseases. You need to have time to do this as early as possible, while the raspberries are still at rest.

Raspberry propagation

Raspberry reproduces vegetatively using root shoots. If the bush is strong, it is divided into parts. For planting, take the strongest shoots with a shoot 1 cm thick and good roots.

Offspring, young shoots, appear at the raspberry bush in early spring. Their number may vary. It all depends on the care of the shrub, its variety, the area where it grows, the application of organic fertilizers, soil moisture. Young offspring develop well by autumn. For planting, they are dug up at the end of summer.

If there is no need for young shoots, they should be disposed of. In some cases, raspberries propagate by green shoots. But it is appropriate to do this only when the variety is of particular value.

Article read: 21,538

© Copying is prohibited!

All materials of the site site are protected by copyright law - article 146 of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation and are monitored for plagiarism. In the event that texts are found on third-party resources, we will be forced to go to court with financial claims against the defendant.