Preparing remontant strawberries for winter in autumn video. When is it better to prune strawberry bushes Is it necessary to prune remontant strawberries for the winter

Remontant strawberries, or remontant garden strawberries, have recently become increasingly popular both among summer residents and those who breed them on an industrial scale for sale. This plant is capable of producing two or even three harvests per season. Despite the fact that the bushes of this plant are somewhat smaller than those of ordinary strawberries, its berries are no worse in taste, and sometimes even better than the usual berries.

A distinctive feature of remontant strawberries is the ability to quickly form young buds and form a new crop immediately after removing the previous one. A large harvest, and there are more than a few, is provided by increased labor costs. Caring for this plant does not end with harvesting. It is interrupted only in winter.

The rhythm of strawberry life depends on the length of daylight hours. Ordinary strawberries lay new buds only from late August to mid-September. Unusual, that is, remontant strawberries, are able to form buds of future flowers even during long or neutral daylight hours. It is this circumstance that makes gardeners work harder in the hope of a big harvest.

The disadvantage of garden strawberries is rapid aging. And this is understandable: two or three harvests per season take a lot of strength from the plant and reduce its potential. Signs of aging include chopping berries and leaves. If you do not take action, then the death of entire bushes of strawberries is possible. For this reason, plant care is aimed primarily at the constant rejuvenation of strawberry plantings.

Principles of care for remontant strawberries

In order to ensure several high yields per season, the following rules must be observed.

1. First of all, you need to decide how to plant strawberries. This planning step is extremely important as the strawberries need room to spread their whiskers. Planting should be carried out so that it is convenient for the shoots to take root. The square-nest method is best suited for this.
2. Most often, planting is done in the spring, but this is due not so much to special agrotechnical considerations as to the fact that seedlings are usually sold in the spring. However, in the fall, strawberries can be transplanted from thickened areas or from mustaches that have taken root in the wrong place. In order to decide how to plant strawberries in such conditions, it is necessary to first redevelop the beds, taking into account changes in their shape and area.
3. Spring planting of seedlings is carried out in mid-May. Later plantings are also possible, but in this case it is not necessary to expect a harvest from these plantings in the same summer.
4. Remontant strawberries suffer the most from diseases and pests, have increased demands on the state of the soil, and need frequent watering. She needs to be looked after very carefully.
5. Watering this variety of strawberries is necessary only with warm water. Not heated water directly from the tap can be watered only in the evening in very hot weather. In this case, the water quickly heats up from the hot soil and does not have a depressing effect on the plants.
6. The soil around the strawberry bushes must be loosened. This is especially true after heavy watering.
7. Newly planted strawberries must be mulched with dry grass, peat, tree leaves, sawdust. It is not advisable to mulch old beds, since the ground layer will interfere with the rooting of the mustache. For the same reason, difficulties arise when using the film.
8. Strawberries that have been growing in the beds for a long time need to be fed. It is best to do this with watering. So the effect of fertilizer comes faster.
9. Caring for remontant strawberries consists not only in creating conditions for rooting mustaches, but also in removing them. Mustache trimming is a prevention of excessive thickening of the beds, which contributes to a decrease in yield.

Autumn plant care

If in the fall there is no need to transplant strawberries to new beds, then it is best to start preparing sites for future plantings in the spring at this time. Strawberries are an aggressive culture, they can greatly deplete the soil in a few years, so you need to take care of good land preparation.

It is better to prepare such a bed in late August or early September. It is undesirable to dig up the earth right before frosts, since all its disturbed inhabitants will not have time to prepare for winter and hibernate. As a result, this area will lose earthworms, wild bees, bumblebees that winter in earthen burrows. Future strawberries need soil looseners and pollinators. If you dig up the soil before the onset of cold weather, when arthropods are still active, then gardeners' allies will have time to prepare for winter.

A long harvest in one place can be guaranteed by the supply of organic matter in the soil. Before the initial formation of the bed, it is necessary to dig a trench in its place, on the bottom of which a layer of grass should be laid, preferably not dry, covered with a layer of manure, if necessary (if the soil is obviously poor) sprinkled with mineral fertilizers on top and cover it all with a layer of soil from the trench.

A bed prepared in this way will provide a good harvest of strawberries without fertilization for at least five years in advance.

Autumn care for remontant strawberries is to enable the plants to prepare for the dormant period as efficiently as possible.

Preparation for winter also consists in removing everything superfluous, which will prevent strawberries from gaining strength for wintering and effective development in the spring. To do this, it is necessary to prune late flowers, which obviously will no longer bear fruit. The flowers take a lot of useful substances that the plant could store and mobilize in the spring. In addition, it is necessary to trim and late whiskers, which no longer have time to take root.

In the climatic conditions of harsh winters, all strawberry beds must be covered. For this, any material that protects not so much from frost as from wind and temperature extremes is suitable. The ideal cover is a layer of leaves or grass laid on the eve of the first snowfall. However, this fur coat is poorly cleaned in the spring. In addition, mice like to wind up in such a layer, which dig passages and damage strawberries. So it's better to use plastic wrap.

Remontant strawberries, or, as it is more correctly called, garden remontant strawberries, can increasingly be found in garden plots not only by amateurs, but also by professionals. She sometimes inhabits large territories, and the owners are satisfied with such coexistence. However, to my surprise, many people still have questions about the proper care of remontant garden strawberries, as if this overseas miracle was brought to our land just a couple of days ago.

Caring for remontant strawberry bushes. © Uteki

The main difference between remontant garden strawberries and ordinary strawberries is its ability to bloom and, accordingly, bear fruit twice a season, without interruption. Only a small fraction of plants have this ability - raspberries and a number of citrus fruits.

Garden strawberries of remontant varieties can lay flower buds either under long daylight conditions (for example, the Garland variety) or under neutral daylight conditions (for example, the Miracle of the World variety). It is noteworthy that varieties capable of laying flower buds in long daylight conditions give about 40% of their crop in July and up to 60% of their crop in August.

Remontant garden strawberry, capable of laying flower buds in neutral daylight conditions, blooms and bears fruit throughout the warm period, gradually giving up its crop. Given the great wear of plants, plantations of remontant strawberries that bear fruit twice a year also need to be changed once every three years, and those that bear fruit throughout the warm period - once every two years, each time changing the location of the site.

In our material, we will try to bring to your attention in as much detail as possible the subtleties of caring for remontant garden strawberries.

How to properly care for remontant garden strawberries?

By and large, varieties of remontant strawberries cannot be called capricious, they are all quite unpretentious, but there are still some subtleties in care. For example, everyone knows that modern large-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries can form berries weighing from 65 to 90 grams or more. Naturally, this will lead with a high degree of probability to a rather rapid depletion of the soil and the need to apply additional fertilizers. Perhaps that is why a number of gardeners, contrary to popular belief, are advised to remove the very first spring flower stalks. Then the second crop of remontant strawberries, firstly, will be much earlier than the due date, therefore, the plants will prepare for winter without human intervention. Secondly, the berries will be tastier and larger. Sometimes, in total, the total yield after such a simple method even exceeds two cumulative yields or all-season - in remontant varieties of a different type.

Caring for remontant garden strawberries includes strictly mandatory steps - these are indispensable watering (the plants must be provided with plenty of moisture), fertilizer (everything is good in moderation, but the plants should not suffer from a deficiency of one or another element), loosening the soil (after each watering and rain to avoid the formation of soil crust when air and water exchange is disturbed), mulching the beds (after each watering, as it inhibits the growth of weeds and the formation of soil crust), weed control (especially with wheatgrass - the most malicious competitor of crops) , destruction of pests and diseases (at the earliest stages of their manifestation), pruning of bushes (a specific procedure for remontant strawberries) and, finally, preparation for winter (an important stage in the life of remontant garden strawberries).

Important! Gardeners who have gone through fire and water recommend necessarily mulching beds with remontant garden strawberries, because the root system of this berry crop, unlike common strawberries, is located high, and plants very often suffer from a banal lack of moisture. To save irrigation water, you need to use mulch almost immediately after watering (and it is better to water with water at room temperature and in the evening). Mulch can be spruce needles, sawdust, straw, humus, hay, ordinary mowed grass. In addition to protecting against moisture loss, the mulch will also protect the berries from splashing with soil during rain and watering and will slow down the growth of weeds (do not forget about them!).

Caring for remontant strawberries. © Alison

Watering remontant strawberries

Remontant varieties of garden strawberries need to be watered more often than ordinary strawberries, especially in the dry seasons of the year. Immediately after planting the seedlings, the plants must be watered every day, then after five or six days, watering can be done every other day, and in the end, watering just a couple of times a month is enough.

For watering remontant strawberries, you can only use warm water at room temperature, it’s great if it is rainwater collected in a barrel painted black. Plantings can be watered both in the morning and evening chats. When watering, try to ensure that the soil in the area where remontant garden strawberries grow is moistened from two to three centimeters at a time.

As for the mulch of remontant strawberries, as we already wrote above, it is needed, but it is not at all necessary to cover the soil with mulch immediately after watering, this can be done the next day. Instead of mulch, if, for example, it is raining, the soil between the rows can be gently loosened. But remember: it is very important not to damage the roots, which, as we have already written, are located closer to the soil surface than those of common strawberries. The main thing when mulching or loosening is to avoid soil crust so that air can freely penetrate to the roots.

If there is no rain for a long period and the soil dries up, then you can break all the rules of watering and moisten the soil almost every day, not allowing the soil to dry out too much, this is very important. If the soil is already very dry, for example, in a country house where you have not been for several days, then first loosen the soil very carefully, and then water it, but do not do the opposite. Frequent watering is especially important for varieties of remontant strawberries of neutral daylight hours; Why, I think that there is no need to explain. The same varieties require more frequent and thorough weeding, especially after rain and the removal of dying leaves that turn red.

Fertilizer for remontant strawberries

It is clear that remontant garden strawberries are very depleted and they definitely need the right top dressing. The most actively remontant garden strawberries consume elements such as nitrogen and potassium from the soil. But she needs phosphorus, but to a small extent. Taking this into account, phosphorus fertilization can be carried out only once, introducing doses of superphosphate (15-20 g per square meter) only when laying a plantation of remontant garden strawberries.

An approximate scheme for feeding remontant strawberries is as follows:

Usually, the first feeding of remontant strawberries is carried out in the third decade of May, during this period urea is used, the composition is very weak - one gram or two (if the soil is poor, per bucket of water), this is the norm per square meter of soil. Approximately in the second half of June, when flower stalks of already re-fruiting begin to actively form, mullein can be introduced (1: 10 - in the amount of 0.5 liters per square meter or bird droppings 1: 15 - in the amount of 0.3 liters per square meter). It is quite acceptable to use, along with organic fertilizers, newfangled mineral supplements, such as Mortar Kristallin or Kemira Lux.

In general, ideally, the whole season should be stretched so that there are about ten top dressings, alternating these fertilizers.

The second option for fertilizing remontant strawberries is when, at the very beginning of June, plants are fed not only with slurry diluted 10 times and bird droppings 15 times, but also with the addition of 1% urea (1 g per bucket of water) to this composition, all this composition should be spent on 2 - 3 square meters of the site.

Fertilizer remontant strawberries. © SunnysideLOCAL

Diseases of remontant strawberries

Gray rot

Gray rot often attacks garden strawberries. It manifests itself most actively in thickened plantations, where soil loosening is not carried out and frequent watering is carried out, especially by sprinkling and cold water. Gray rot can affect all above-ground organs of the plant, which will lead to losses of up to 85% of the total crop. In order to prevent the appearance of gray rot on remontant strawberries, it is necessary to plant on the site in accordance with the characteristics of the strength of growth and development of a particular variety, carry out soil mulching, as well as sufficient, but not excessive watering. At the first sign of infection, the affected parts of the plants should be removed.

As a preventive measure, plants can be treated at the very beginning of the growing season with 2.0% Bordeaux liquid, and after harvesting at the very end of the growing season, to consolidate the result, with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur.

There are also fungicides to fight the disease, but you can only use approved ones, in full accordance with the instructions on the package, for example, Strobi, Switch, Euparen, Triadimefon (Bayleton), Kaptan. Alirin-B is considered the safest biological product from the recommended list.

brown spot

It manifests itself when, as in the previous case, strawberry plantations are thickened, there is too much moisture, and day and night temperatures jump noticeably. As a preventive measure, remove all dry leaves in the spring so that the infection does not “sit down” on them and carry out treatments with 2% Bordeaux liquid. Do not forget about mulching, which will not allow the fungus to get to the surface.

If the disease is very active, then use approved fungicides, strictly following the instructions on the package, for example, Skor, Strobi, Fundazol.

powdery mildew

The first sign of the onset of this disease is the purple color of the strawberry leaf blades, then they curl up and turn ash-gray, as if sprinkled with old flour. If you do not want this disease to visit you, then in early spring, treat the plants with a weak (slightly pink) solution of potassium permanganate or 1% colloidal sulfur.

There are also fungicides, but use only approved ones and exactly in accordance with the instructions on the package, for example, Topaz, Fundazol, Tilt, Strobi and Fitosporin-M.

Brown spotting on strawberry leaves. © Tip10 Powdery mildew on strawberry leaves. © gov.au

Remontant strawberry pests

The first pests of remontant strawberries personally in my area are slugs. I saved myself from them by planting garlic between the rows: honestly, I didn’t see a single slug again.

strawberry mite

It is considered a much more dangerous pest of strawberries: if it damages young leaves, then they are quite actively twisted and turn yellow. The plant itself is sharply inhibited in growth. A tick can infect from half to the entire plantation, and without treatments it can lead to its death.

It helps to overcome the tick with a 3% solution of colloidal sulfur, only it can be used very early in the spring and after harvesting the entire crop. Well, and of course - all sorts of permitted acaricides.

strawberry nematode

Usually, if a strawberry is infected with a nematode, then its leaves are deformed and twisted. A characteristic feature can be seen on the petioles: they become too fragile and sometimes break even from the wind. Fruiting on such plants is either weak or absent altogether. The nematode is considered a quarantine pest, if it is present on the site, the plants are subject to immediate removal and burning.

spider mite

Usually, strawberry leaves become as if sluggish, and if they are turned over, traces of the activity of the tick are visible - a cobweb. As a result, the leaf blades turn yellow and dry out ahead of time. Gardeners write that Karbofos helps very well against spider mites. After harvesting the entire crop, they process the plants and cover them with a film for several days.

Signs of damage to strawberries by strawberry, or cyclamen mites. © K. Lynch Dead strawberry plants affected by the strawberry nematode. © Surendra Dara Strawberries affected by spider mites. © Surendra Dara

Pruning remontant strawberries

Caring for remontant strawberry bushes, among other things, also includes pruning. Usually pruning of bushes is enough to do once a season - either in spring or autumn.

If you live in a cold region where remontant strawberries require shelter, then pruning should be done in the fall. This is done as follows: after the final harvest of the entire crop, the lower leaf blades are removed from the bush, trying not to affect the upper leaf blades, because it is in their axils that fruit buds are laid, from which fruits will form next season.

In the event that berries do not form at all on the mustache and the gardener does not plan to propagate remontant garden strawberries in this way, then the removal of the mustache is mandatory.

Remember, however, this rule: after the first fruiting of remontant garden strawberries, the mustache is usually not removed, but the leaves that have begun to dry out, have formed spots or hide more developed and healthy leaves must be removed. The removal of such leaves can be carried out in the fall, immediately after the entire harvest, when the foliage slowly begins to dry out.

If you are a resident of a cold region, then take your time and transfer this operation to the spring, remove such leaves after the snow cover has completely disappeared.

Important! Many neglect the pruning of dead leaves and mustaches of remontant garden strawberries, however, their removal is like a shield that protects plants from pathogens, because it is on diseased, old foliage that the infection hibernates.

Autumn care and preparation for wintering

Plants of remontant strawberries of a long sunny day often do not fully mature by the end of the season, especially if they are not grown in a greenhouse. Given this, not only part of the crop is lost, but plants that do not have time to adapt to cold and frost sometimes suffer. The best option to save such plants is to cover them with fresh straw 5-8 cm thick, and sketch spruce branches on top, which will keep the straw from flying all over the site.

Repair strawberry garden. © siliconinvestor

Outcome

As you can see, growing remontant garden strawberries does not present any particular difficulties, and even a beginner can handle this matter, not to mention a professional.

Do not forget, however, although we already wrote about this, that the life of the plantation should be no more than three years, after which the plantings need to be updated.

Strawberry is the most ancient berry; archaeologists find traces of it in sediments that are more than 60 million years old. But it became a garden culture only in the 15th century, before that people were content with a generous forest harvest. And modern breeders have made the dream of our ancestors a reality - they have bred remontant varieties of strawberries, the fruiting of which lasts from early summer until late autumn, thanks to which they have an impressive yield. Remontant strawberries are incredibly popular among gardeners, but if you decide to grow this berry in your yard, you need to prepare for the need to scrupulously care for it, because the plant requires a lot of attention. Let's take a closer look at the rules for planting and caring for remontant strawberries.

Advantages and disadvantages of remontant strawberries

Strawberries of remontant varieties differ from their forest relatives, first of all, by an increased fruiting period. That is, as soon as one cycle of fruiting is completed, it is immediately replaced by the next. Thanks to the efforts of breeders, wild strawberries have acquired many useful properties that make it easier to grow them, but at the same time they managed to keep the taste and aroma inherent in wild berries unchanged.

Remontant strawberries begin to bear fruit from early summer until late autumn

Among the advantages of remontant strawberries are:

1. High yields. Modern varieties begin to bear fruit 2 weeks earlier than the classic ones, and due to frost resistance, they yield until late autumn.
2. Cold resistance. Even in case of damage due to frost inflorescences, new ones will quickly grow in their place.
3. Large fruit size compared to wild berries.
4. Taste and color variety. There are varieties with yellow or white berries.
5. Disease resistance and insect pests.

But they have such varieties and their drawbacks, which are associated with the difficulties of caring for them:

1. The berry will give a large harvest only for the first few years, then it starts to run out. In order for the plant to constantly actively bear fruit, it need repotting every 2-3 years.
2. Remontant varieties are more demanding on moisture, nutrition and lighting.. In the absence of the necessary conditions, the fruits will shrink and yields will decrease.
3. Such a strawberry grown only by seedlings.

Thus, remontant varieties of strawberries bring a lot of trouble to gardeners, but they more than pay off with the merits of the plant. Growing a berry has specific features, so before you start growing it in your garden, you need to gain knowledge about planting and proper care for these varieties of strawberries.

Rules for landing on open ground

Sowing of remontant strawberries begins early - at the end of February, or in the first week of March. It is carried out as follows:

1. Pour into seedling container loose earth and pour water over it.
2. Spread the seeds evenly on the surface and press lightly into the ground with your fingers. It is not necessary to cover the earth.
3. Cover the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect and place on the windowsill.
4. Moisten the soil periodically from the spray bottle and raise the glass to ventilate.

Growing seedlings of remontant strawberries: temperature - 20-22 degrees, bright lighting - 12-15 hours a day, regularly ventilate containers

Strawberry seeds hatch long enough - 20 to 30 days. When the sprouts hatch and 3 leaves appear on them, the seedlings need to dive.

You can plant strawberries on open ground as soon as night frosts stop.

The plant is capricious in relation to the landing site. If cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage or potatoes were previously grown in this place, then the berry will not grow there. It is better to choose a site where beans, garlic, dill or parsley grew before. Also, a rich harvest of berries will contribute to the earth after bulbous flowers - tulips, hyacinths, crocuses.

The most optimal landing method is considered to be a two-line bush. It will relieve thickening and protect the plant from fungal infections.. With this method, a distance of 30 cm is left between two lines in the tape, and 70 cm between the tapes themselves. In the rows, the bushes are seated at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other.

​Related Articles​ As you can see, remontant strawberries, planted and cared for by gardeners and gardeners in accordance with the requirements of the culture, can bear fruit all season without interruption, delighting the owners with a quality and healthy crop.

general information

On hot days, the soil dries out quite quickly, which will immediately affect the yield - a lack of moisture in the soil will lead to reduced flowering and fruiting. Therefore, it is necessary to water the culture regularly. Watering for strawberries is especially important when the bushes are at the stage of development, which determines the productivity of the crop. That is, strawberries will need to be watered throughout the summer season, if there is no rain. Mulch can significantly reduce watering, as well as loosening the soil, if it is regularly in the garden. Mulching will ensure, firstly, the preservation of moisture in the soil, and secondly, constant access of fresh air to the root system of the bushes.​

1 bucket of compost, to which 2 liters of biohumus are added.

There are several technologies by which remontant strawberries are planted:

It is better to prepare such a bed at the end of August or at the beginning of September. It is undesirable to dig up the earth right before frosts, since all its disturbed inhabitants will not have time to prepare for winter and hibernate. As a result, this area will lose earthworms, wild bees, bumblebees that winter in earthen burrows. Future strawberries need soil looseners and pollinators. If you dig up the soil before the onset of cold weather, when the arthropods are still active, then the allies of gardeners will have time to prepare for winter.

Preparing for landing

In the future, constantly loosen, weed and water the plantings. In August, a week before the relocation of young bushes to a new place, cut off the mustache that connects them with the mother bushes. The best precursors are traditionally onion or garlic. Plant the plants in rows every 35 cm with a row spacing of 50 cm. The growth point should be flush with the ground, compact the soil, spill it with water.

The first harvest of such strawberries coincides in time with the early garden varieties of KSD. The second time fruiting occurs in August, the third - in the fall. As a rule, the yield of large-fruited strawberries as a percentage is expressed as follows: 30% of berries in spring, 70% in summer. Many gardeners sacrifice the first berries and prune flower stalks, providing an earlier, richer second fruiting.

• Simultaneously with watering, you can fertilize strawberries. In this case, you can use a herbal infusion made with your own hands, which is prepared from crushed wormwood or nettle, filled with water and infused in this form in the sun for 7 days. Such infusions nourish the culture well, because they contain all the trace elements necessary for strawberries. During the periods of formation and ripening of berries, such infusions can also be used. Additionally, it is necessary to use an infusion of bird droppings (ratio 1:15) or cows (1:10).​
• Reproduction of strawberries is possible not only with a mustache and division of bushes, but also with seeds. To do this, first grow seedlings at home. To do this, planting seeds should be carried out in mini-greenhouses in January-February, so that the seedlings are stronger and prepared for spring planting in open ground. Such a process is quite troublesome and requires special training.​
• For future planting, it is worth starting to prepare the site in the fall to facilitate spring care and further planting. The land in the planned location should be dug up and free from weeds. Next, it is worth feeding the soil with phosphate fertilizers and adding humus. In this form, the site remains to winter. You can continue preparing the soil with the arrival of spring - 2.5-3 weeks before the planned planting date, add last year's manure per 1 sq. m - 10 liters. Planting processes can begin as early as mid-May.​
• Remontant strawberries have recently become quite a popular crop to grow. And it is not surprising, because compared to ordinary strawberries, which bear fruit for only a couple of weeks, remontant varieties can produce crops up to several times a year. However, not everyone knows and takes into account that the cultivation of such strawberries is different from the usual one.

Large-fruited garden strawberries are a common berry crop. It tolerates winters well and gives reliable yields of large berries. Typically, crops ripen in July, and in August - September, flower buds are laid in the plants for the next year's crop. Flower buds the next year after overwintering develop into flower stalks and produce crops.

Mulch is also able to restrain the growth of weeds in the garden, which will simplify the care of the crop in terms of regular weeding. Of course, strawberries will not suffer from weeds if there is no way to mulch the soil. However, the presence of weeds can adversely affect the very quality of the berries of the crop.

Landing methods

To avoid evaporation on hot days and during dry periods, when planting seedlings, it is customary to remove the lower leaves from the bushes, leaving only one full-fledged adult leaf that is fully expanded. Thus, evaporation will not harm the foliage, and the plant will take root much better and faster.

perennial and annual crops; A long harvest in one place can be guaranteed by the supply of organic matter in the soil. Before the initial formation of the bed, it is necessary to dig a trench in its place, on the bottom of which a layer of grass should be laid, preferably not dry, cover it with a layer of manure, if necessary (if the soil is obviously poor), sprinkle mineral fertilizers on top and cover it all with a layer of soil from the trench.

Reproduction by division of bushes Reproduction by seeds

Pest control and disease protection is also provided by the care of strawberries. There are several diseases, the most common of which are: gray mold (fungal infections that spread in cool weather), powdery mildew (foliage disease) and brown spot (leaf damage). In the fight against these diseases, special preparations and manipulations to remove infected parts will help. Among pests, strawberry mites can cause the main harm to strawberries, against which a solution of karbofos can be used in the form of sprays, which are carried out, as a rule, after the crop is harvested.

How to plant planting material

The simplest is the propagation of strawberries with antennae. This method is carried out using minimal experience and knowledge, if the remontant strawberry has a large number of mustaches. When there are not so many antennae, and there is no planting material in the form of seeds, then strawberries can be propagated by dividing adult bushes.

When planting in the fall, it is also worth preparing the soil in advance. The landing itself should be carried out from mid-August to early September. This period is considered optimal, because the plant will have time to take root before the arrival of the first frost.

In particular, planting and caring for such a delicate crop requires special attention and knowledge about some of the agrotechnical features of the plant.

But there are varieties that are called remontants. Their feature is the ability to lay flower buds in spring, in May, which develop and produce a crop in the same year. Some of them (small-fruited) bear fruit continuously from July until autumn frosts, others (large-fruited) are able to produce two harvests - in July and at the end of August - September. In September, the crop is harvested only if there are no frosts, or the plants are covered.

planting material

Autumn care and preparation of remontant strawberries for winter are very important for the culture. The list of such procedures includes only two items: it is necessary to gradually reduce the volume of watering and carry out sanitary procedures for the treatment of bushes (pruning diseased or damaged leaves, trimming mustaches).

Repair strawberries are not the most capricious culture. But, like other plants, after planting, it needs good care. Post-planting activities, from which, in fact, care begins, are that the planted seedlings of remontant strawberries are watered to ensure the best growth of seedling roots with the ground. Then it is worth mulching the soil. To do this, you can use needles and foliage (rotted), compost, small sawdust. Straw, especially coarse, gardeners are not advised to use, because it will be too dense and coarse for young bushes.

narrowband and broadband

How to take care of the culture

A bed prepared in this way will provide a good harvest of strawberries without fertilizing for at least five years in advance.

• Dividing bushes is an emergency method that is used when there is not enough seedlings or when it is urgent to transfer planting to a new place. For reproduction, two- and four-year-old plants are taken, selecting well-developed specimens with a healthy root system. At this age, the bush usually already consists of 30-40 small shoots-horns.
• The culture is propagated in various ways: by seeds, mustaches, dividing the bushes. Through seedlings, some small-fruited varieties that do not form mustaches are grown from seeds. In addition, this method preserves the purity of the variety.​
• Removing the tendrils of bushes is one of the points that make up care that should be done regularly, because a plantation overgrown with a large number of young shoots usually produces a small crop.
• In general, the gardener quite independently chooses the method by which he will further grow strawberries, based on how he will be most comfortable.
• Both in the spring and autumn seasons, miracle strawberries can be planted. The preferred planting option is the nesting method (for strawberry varieties that are propagated by tendrils). With this method, it is much easier to root mustaches that are ready to bear fruit immediately. There are also other planting methods, the choice of which is due to the convenience of harvesting:

Remontant strawberries, being a relative of strawberries, have a certain similarity with it. Only the yield of such berries depends on the natural characteristics of the laying of fruit buds. That is, the buds for the next crop of remontant strawberries are able to lay both during long and during neutral daylight hours, depending on the variety.

Among the small-fruited remontants there are varieties that breed with a mustache. The abundance of thin mustache creates a great difficulty in care, so this strawberry is not widespread.

It is from these manipulations that the quality and quantity of the harvest that the next year will bring will depend.

Proper care of strawberries, if it is carried out in accordance with the characteristics of the remontant variety and general requirements, gives good results: the plants will take root perfectly in the garden and will develop well, subsequently delighting the owners with high yields. So, the main care should be:

tapestry;

Autumn care for remontant strawberries is to enable the plants to prepare for the dormant period as efficiently as possible.

Each horn has a rosette of leaves, apical and several lateral buds, as well as adventitious roots. Dig up such plants in spring or early autumn, divide them into horns and plant them in a permanent bed. Water every day for the first time of planting. If the weather is hot, the seedlings should be shaded.

Growing remontant strawberries from seeds:

Preparing the crop for wintering

At the same time, adult strawberries are noticeably depleted. Therefore, the antennae must be removed as they grow, except for a few, which will later become planting material. You can see more about trimming and removing mustaches in the video.​

Caring for a miracle culture involves growing it in compliance with all the rules and characteristics of the variety. In general, it consists of:​

Carpet.

A miracle strawberry can bear fruit from the arrival of May until October itself, delighting the gardener even in the berry-free season. And the combined planting in the garden of several varieties at once will provide high yields.

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Secrets of growing remontant strawberries

Distinctive features of the variety

But the beardless small-fruited remontant strawberries are well known to experienced gardeners. The size of its berries is 1.5 - 2 times larger than wild strawberries. The high taste qualities of berries, close to wild strawberries, the ability to pick berries from July until frost, the absence of mustaches (convenient for care), decorative plants due to the constant presence of white flowers and red (or cream) berries make this strawberry interesting not only for gardeners, but and for residents of city apartments.​

During the winter, part of the strawberry foliage will dry up and die off. As a rule, various pests and pathogens of certain diseases can overwinter in such leaves. Therefore, with the advent of spring, all the fallen foliage must certainly be removed from the garden. But this should be done only after the threat of frost has passed, because after the snow has melted, the old dead leaves protect the young branches and the bushes themselves from the cold wind and help retain moisture in the soil. Regular watering and fertilizing; bush (single-line, two-line, three-line).

Preparation for winter also consists in removing everything superfluous that will prevent strawberries from gaining strength for wintering and effective development in the spring. To do this, it is necessary to prune late flowers, which obviously will no longer bear fruit. The flowers take a lot of useful substances that the plant could store and mobilize in the spring. In addition, it is necessary to trim and late whiskers, which no longer have time to take root.

Care for remontant strawberries mainly consists in regular loosening and watering. Loosening the soil enriches the root system with oxygen, which is so necessary for the full development of the bush and the formation of the crop. During the fruiting period, plantings do not weed and do not loosen. Weeds growing in the garden, of course, reduce the quantity and quality of berries, so they get rid of them.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

• In February, soak the seed for three days in snow water, remembering to change it regularly;

Proper care should be taken in the fall for the remontant strawberry culture in order to prepare it for the cold season. Plants that have become obsolete over the summer period need to be fed so that the recovery process in the spring goes faster.

Regular loosening of the soil, or mulching;

1. With this method, strawberries are planted according to the scheme 20x20 cm. That is, there should be a distance of 20 cm between the bushes and between the rows. The bush, growing over the years, will fill the space remaining during planting.
2. Planting and caring for remontant strawberries are quite specific, because the return of berry fruits, carried out several times in one season, greatly weakens the bushes of the culture.
3. It grows well in balcony boxes. When sown in February, berries from beardless strawberries can be obtained from July. Good seedlings from the February sowing will grow only in a greenhouse. In room conditions, there is usually not enough light for its growth, and the plants develop weakly, stretch out. It is easier to grow seedlings later, sowing seeds in April - May. It is possible to sow in the summer in open ground. The beginning of fruiting of plants depends on the sowing time: the earlier the sowing is carried out, the earlier the fruiting begins. When sown in summer, strawberries bear fruit only the next year after overwintering in the garden.
4. Strawberry remontant varieties is a plant quite tender and sensitive to various kinds of diseases. Such a culture can suffer from such diseases:
5. timely detection and removal of bushes affected by diseases or pests;
6. However, the most popular and preferred method, judging by the reviews of experienced gardeners, is planting the bush two-line method on the beds, the width of which is from 1.2 to 1.4 m with paths between them. The popularity of this method is justified by the fact that with it it is possible to avoid thickening of seedlings, as well as protect the culture from fungal-type diseases. At the same time, this method of planting strawberries allows parallel planting of another crop. For example, garlic can be planted between rows, which is also a very useful “companion” for remontant strawberries, as it will help get rid of slugs. However, the neighborhood of strawberries and tomatoes is contraindicated, since both of these crops can be subject to late blight, verticillium and fusarium diseases.

• In the climatic conditions of harsh winters, all strawberry beds must be covered. For this, any material that protects not so much from frost as from wind and temperature extremes is suitable. The ideal cover is a layer of leaves or grass laid on the eve of the first snowfall. However, this fur coat is poorly cleaned in the spring. In addition, mice like to wind up in such a layer, which dig passages and damage strawberries. So it's better to use plastic wrap.

The formation of berries and their further ripening is impossible without sufficient moisture: its lack can lead to the absence of an ovary or the formation of ugly fruits.

Prepare seed boxes by filling them with a mixture of leaf humus (50%), garden soil (25%), sifted sand (25%). It is advisable to cover the bottom of the containers with a layer of broken bricks. Then moisten the earth well;

On young bushes, it is necessary to start removing flower stalks from the end of summer. In this case, it is worth taking pity on the plants and sacrificing the future harvest, because the berries simply will not have time to ripen by the time the cold weather arrives, and the plant will simply waste its strength. Completely remove the foliage, cutting it off, should not be after picking the berries, but after the first frosts come.

• Frequent and abundant watering (especially for NSD varieties)

Private.

There are even cases of plant death in the year of planting. This feature of the culture quite often scares off gardeners, and they return to growing ordinary strawberries, depriving themselves of the opportunity to enjoy ripe fragrant berries for a long period.

How to care for remontant strawberries

How to sow and care for the crop? The seeds of remontant strawberries are very small and cannot be buried in the soil. When sowing in a box, they are scattered over a leveled, watered soil surface, they can be lightly sprinkled on top (1 mm) with earth or left uncovered.

powdery mildew; Periodic soil mulching; Best of all, remontant strawberries grow on narrow beds, the optimal width for which should be 90-110 cm.

Remontant strawberries in your garden are everyone's favorite fragrant berries that you can enjoy from the very beginning of summer until the arrival of frost. You can grow such berries on your own.

Keep soil under plants moist throughout the season

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Growing remontant strawberries: fall care

Since the seeds are very small, just crush the surface of the soil with them and lightly press, sprinkle with a spray bottle. Cover with a film, keep the temperature in the room + 20-25 ° C;

Wells are ventilated before the onset of cold weather. After loosening the soil (without exposing the roots of the bushes), a new layer of mulch is poured using rotted foliage. When the sub-zero temperature becomes stable, you can start covering the strawberry bushes cut from the leaves. You can use both fallen leaves and spruce branches, as well as previously mowed grass.

Autumn plant care

top dressing;

Unlike the previous one, this method provides for a planting distance between bushes from 20 to 25 m, and between rows - 70 m. This method is designed for the fact that the remontant strawberry bush will grow, increasing in diameter, which is characteristic of these varieties.

Varieties of remontant strawberries are recommended to be grown on fertile soils, with good drainage and with a neutral composition. Indeed, in order to regularly bear fruit, strawberries must receive nutrients from the earth. Therefore, planting will give excellent results if strawberries are grown on loamy soil. For a site with a heavy soil composition, you can use sand as a "dilution".

The box is covered with glass or film. Until the shoots appear, the box can be kept in a dark but warm place. Watered only by spraying (for example, from a spray bottle). When seedlings appear, the box should be placed on a bright window or in a greenhouse. When three true leaves appear (except cotyledons), the plants are seated (dive) to get good bushy plants. When buying on the market, thickened seedlings crowded in a box should be avoided and preference should be given to isolated, developed, large plants grown by picking.

gray rot;

manipulations for the destruction of pests;

The distance between the bushes must be maintained at about 40-50 cm (although traditional agricultural technology advises making it smaller - from 20 to 25 cm). In general, an individual approach is also possible, based on which variety you have chosen.​

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How to grow remontant strawberries in a garden plot

However, you should be prepared for the fact that planting remontant strawberries and further caring for it will require scrupulous attention from gardeners, since such varieties have a number of specific features. To reduce watering, as well as to minimize labor costs for weeding and loosening, mulching the soil between the bushes will help.

The virtues of culture

When seedlings appear, move the containers to a lighted, sunny place. Do not allow the soil to dry out, regularly ventilate the plantings;

Remontant strawberries respond very well to good care. And, if you follow all the requirements of agricultural technology, which include proper planting and maintaining proper growing conditions, then the culture will reward the owner with large crops of fragrant strawberries throughout the season.

protection from possible diseases and pests;

How to plant remontant strawberries

The photo shows what a correct and comfortable landing pattern will look like.

It is best to plant remontant strawberries in areas where such crops were previously grown:

Landing methods

Repair strawberries are less winter hardy than regular ones. Often, after wintering, the bushes look completely dead, but one should not rush to remove them from the site. With the accumulation of heat, they can grow well from the rhizome and give a full crop. Plants of remontant beardless strawberries in protected conditions are able to survive in winter and bear fruit for 2-3 or more years, however, the best fruiting is in young one-biennial plants.

• stem nematode;
• Weeding weeds and loosening the surface of the earth;
• Planting remontant strawberries should be carried out quite carefully. To facilitate further care and provide good conditions for development, when planting seedlings, it must be borne in mind that if the deepening of the apical bud into the ground is too strong, this will affect the growth of the bushes - it will slow down. And with a shallow planting, the roots will be exposed after watering and may begin to dry out, which will also adversely affect the development and growth of plants.
• The main advantage of remontant strawberries is their characteristic continuous flowering and, accordingly, long-term fruiting and high yields. This feature of strawberries (bearing fruit all summer season) was laid down by the work of breeders, thanks to which many gardeners can now make their dream come true and grow a high-yielding crop in their garden.

Be sure to remove reddening leaves - this event rejuvenates the bushes. In addition, to get large sweet berries, periodically trim the mustache buds after the first rosette has formed. (This variety of strawberries tends to bear fruit on young rosettes formed from rooted tendrils). In the first year in spring, strawberries need to be fed: 15 gr. ammonium nitrate, 15 gr. potassium sulfate, 30 gr. superphosphate per square meter.​

After two weeks, the seedlings dive, maintaining a distance of 3 cm between them;

Remontant varieties lay buds during neutral and long daylight hours. When buying a seedling, be sure to pay attention to the NSD or DSD marking, this will help you adhere to certain growing recommendations.​

Planting process

Removing reddening foliage and tendrils.

Holes are made on the prepared site according to the chosen landing pattern. The depth of the holes should be about 10-15 cm. For convenience, you can use a small garden shovel. In general, the depth can be individual for each plant, because for adult seedlings with powerful long roots, it is better to make the hole deeper so as not to damage the root system.

beans;

• Large-fruited remontant strawberries, in contrast to small-fruited beardless remontant, have a number of significant features.
• leaf spot;
• Planting growing plantings, avoiding thickening.

Before planting strawberries, the soil will need to be well loosened.

How to care for strawberries after planting

The most successful is the planting of remontant strawberries if it was carried out in the area where bulbous flowers (tulips, crocuses, hyacinths) or vegetables - early cabbage, lettuce and cucumbers previously grew.

Rules for further care

Closer to winter, reduce watering, sanitary pruning of diseased leaves and mustaches. Remontant strawberries should experience frosts, after which they are covered with non-woven material. The beds are also covered with a variety of mulches: fallen leaves, sawdust, straw, hay. If this is the last fruiting season, then the old bushes must be removed from the site before the first snow.

• In early May, plant seedlings in beds that have been previously freed from weeds and seasoned with compost.
• Remontant strawberries are distinguished by the fact that they can repeatedly bloom and bear fruit throughout the spring-autumn season. It is characterized by a weaker foliage than that of garden strawberries, as well as fragility, the cause of which is a constant overload with crops.
• So, now about this in order.
• Experienced gardeners advise further making a hump in the hole so that when planting it, carefully spread all the roots of the bush on it.
• radish;
• The size of its berries differs little from the usual large-fruited varieties grown in open ground. It reproduces with the help of whiskers, but the nature of remontance is different. If small-fruited beardless strawberries bear fruit continuously from July until frost, then large-fruited remontant yields two crops: the first at the usual time - in July, the second - more plentiful - at the end of August - September. In culture, there are now many varieties of such strawberries.

top dressing

late blight.

Remontant strawberries are preferable in cultivation because, when propagated by seeds, they will delight in the harvest of fragrant berries in the same year. But in order to get excellent yield indicators when planting strawberries in the form of seedlings, it is worthwhile to provide them with proper care in a timely manner - water the plants and feed them with fertilizers.

Watering and mulching

This is explained by the fact that the listed crops release the land quite early, which allows it to be properly cared for: cultivate the soil and prepare it for planting strawberry seedlings.

Remontant strawberries, or remontant garden strawberries, have recently become increasingly popular both among summer residents and those who breed them on an industrial scale for sale. This plant is capable of producing two or even three harvests per season. Despite the fact that the bushes of this plant are somewhat smaller than those of ordinary strawberries, its berries are no worse in taste, and sometimes even better than the usual berries.

Preparing the crop for wintering

Mustache reproduction

The plant needs more care

Strawberries require loosening of the root soil after watering and rain. This must be done in order to provide normal conditions for the vital activity of plant roots. Loosening should be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the antennae and roots of the bushes. If the soil is mulched, then the need for regular loosening will disappear. Dry grass, sawdust or peat can be used as mulch.​

Detection of diseases and pests

You can also pour a little special powder around the roots, which contributes to better rooting of plants. Then it remains to fill them with soil, slightly compacting it. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the root neck of the seedling is located at the same level with the soil surface or slightly above it, as in the photo.

• Mustard;
• The potential for remontant large-fruited varieties is very high: they can give a higher yield than conventional varieties, but sometimes only a small part of the second crop ripens in the open field. Autumn frosts destroy flowers, green and ripening berries. Plants do not have time to prepare for winter and often die, but they can be protected by covering them with loose dry material (straw, leaf, shavings, etc.), and with a film on top.
• Against each of the above diseases, as well as against a number of others, there are many effective special preparations on sale. All work on the treatment and processing of bushes must be carried out after carefully studying the instructions for the preparations. And after processing, do not eat strawberries for a few more days.
• The first procedures related to feeding strawberries can be carried out as early as March, feeding with nitrogen-type fertilizers, applying them directly to the snow layer. The second top dressing is mulching with mineral and organic fertilizers in April. The third, last top dressing is carried out, as a rule, in September.
• 1 bucket of garden soil;

Planting remontant strawberries can begin in the spring and last until the arrival of the autumn season. If it turns out that planting work is carried out in early spring (before the onset of dry heat with dry winds), then the results will be successful and will please the harvest.​

A distinctive feature of remontant strawberries is the ability to quickly form young buds and form a new crop immediately after removing the previous one. A large harvest, and there are more than a few, is provided by increased labor costs. Caring for this plant does not end with harvesting. It is interrupted only in winter.

​If you plan to expand your strawberry plantations by rooting growing mustaches, then get ready to sacrifice second crop berries. It is best to lay new beds in July-August, this will enable the bushes to take root well and ensure an excellent harvest next year. Mustache breeding right in the garden is the easiest and easiest way in terms of labor costs.

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, frequent watering, fertile soil. The best varieties of remontant strawberries: Albion, Lyubava, Queen Elizabeth II, Lord, Honey, Vima Rina, Selva and others.
Remontant strawberries need more watering than ordinary strawberries. Therefore, care in this regard should be done more carefully.
The hole before planting, as well as the already planted bush, needs to be watered with a small amount of water. You can also watch a video clip about the correct planting of strawberries.​
Parsley.

Is it possible to use the high potential of remontant large-fruited varieties? Are there years with a long warm autumn without early frosts, when a significant part of the second crop is also removed from them? Can. To do this, it is necessary to accelerate the development of plants, artificially creating a higher temperature regime for them. This can be achieved by covering the plants with foil in April. You can also use greenhouses in which tomatoes are grown. The temperature regime in the greenhouse for tomatoes is most suitable for strawberries. Growing tomatoes and strawberries can be combined. Strawberries in this case are grown as a compactor not to the detriment of tomatoes in the so-called vertical culture. In June - July, after harvesting, the strawberries are removed from the greenhouse.
Traditional farming methods also include spraying bushes with Bordeaux liquid and garlic-based infusions.
Undoubtedly, when fertilizing remontant strawberries, you should be extremely careful. If there is a need for additional top dressing, you can use a little compost.
2 cups wood ash;

Large-fruited remontant strawberry

Planting can also be carried out in the summer, in which case the crop will be pleased with a good yield next year. However, when planting strawberries in the summer season, in the post-planting period, it is worth spending a lot of time on weeding and loosening the soil, as well as watering quite often. Strawberries will require the most minimal care if they are planted in the fall. You can learn about some of the features that remontant strawberries have, and which determine the timing of planting and conditions, by watching the video.​
If in the fall there is no need to transplant strawberries to new beds, then it is best to start preparing sites for future plantings in the spring at this time. Strawberries are an aggressive crop, they can greatly deplete the soil in a few years, so you need to take care of good soil preparation.
During fruiting, mark the most developed and strong annual bushes with even, large berries. Select only the first whiskers and arrange them in small grooves along the side of the bed. Just cut off all the other mustaches that appear so that they do not weaken the mother bush. Soon, sprouts will appear on the mustache, which will begin to take root. For propagation, leave the first rosettes: cut off the ends of the whiskers of the second order, but do not separate them from the mother plant.
The ability to set large fruits is retained by DSD bushes for no more than two years, then the berries become smaller, and growing strawberries further becomes inappropriate. Strawberry NSD has an accelerated development cycle, it is grown for only one season. In addition, the culture is divided into large-fruited, which yields twice a season, and small-fruited, continuously fruiting until frost.

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Watering is especially necessary for the crop at the stage of fruit ripening on the bushes, and when the temperature outside exceeds +30 degrees. The soil should be constantly moist to a depth of 2-3 cm from the surface. Mulch will retain moisture very well - the earth will always be wet and easily permeable.

After a long winter, gardeners look forward with particular impatience to the appearance of the first fresh berries, which include large-fruited garden strawberries, or strawberries. But the time of waiting often lasts longer than the very enjoyment of the fruits. In order to harvest strawberries all summer long, breeders developed a remontant variety of this crop.

The word "remontant" is translated from French as "blooming again." Such strawberries bear fruit several times a season, and are highly productive. Remontant strawberries usually have two or three fruiting waves, rare varieties have four. The first wave usually occurs in July, and the second in August. If you correctly combine ordinary and remontant varieties of early, middle and late ripening on the site, you can continuously feast on strawberries all summer. Under the condition of a warm autumn, the berries will ripen almost until the first snow.

Remontant strawberries have the following planting and care features:

• The growing season of the plant is extended. Remontant strawberries require more careful care: this means that the gardener needs to constantly monitor soil moisture, loosen the soil and regularly carry out complex top dressing.
• The bush ages faster, as the plant needs a lot of strength to bear fruit. Accordingly, you have to constantly grow new seedlings.
• The bush is smaller, it does not give a mustache so well. Therefore, it takes up less space in the garden.
• Often goes under the snow with buds, so it requires additional shelter. Most remontant varieties have low winter hardiness.
• Suitable for home growing on a windowsill or balcony. With the right choice of variety and proper care, it will bear fruit all year round. In winter, plants need to be illuminated 12 hours a day.

Types of remontant strawberries

Depending on the characteristics of fruiting and reproduction, varieties can be divided into several categories.

• Long/neutral daylight hours.

Flowering of DSD varieties is possible only when daylight hours last longer than 10 hours. Such strawberries give several waves of harvest within 2-3 years. The second wave of fruiting is usually more productive. Varieties: Crimean remontant, Autumn fun, Inexhaustible, Garland.

Varieties of neutral daylight hours are less dependent on the duration of illumination. Flowers, young ovaries and ripe berries coexist on a bush. Fruits evenly throughout the season. The life span of a bush is 1 year. The best remontant varieties of NSD strawberries: Monterey, Albion, Murano, Harmony, Selva. Suitable for warm regions, winters poorly in the cold.

• Mustachioed / small mustache / beardless

Beardless strawberries are less demanding to care for: there is no need to constantly thin out emerging shoots. The plant does not lose strength for reproduction, which has a positive effect on productivity, but the bush quickly thickens, so the berries become smaller. Such strawberries are more difficult to propagate. Varieties: Alexandrina, Coquette, Orion, Bolero.

Mustachioed strawberries are easy to propagate, but require constant attention: the bed quickly overgrows with new shoots that need to be removed. She needs more space on the site. Varieties: Alba, Tristar, Asia, Lyubava, Diamant.

The little mustache grows a mustache only in the first year of life. It can be propagated by layering only in the summer after planting. Varieties: Elsanta, Vikoda, Capri.

• Large-fruited / small-fruited

Large-fruited strawberries are often called Victoria among the people. Berries of such varieties as Queen Elizabeth, Vima Rina, Temptation, Albion, have a mass of more than 20 g, some reach 50-70 g. The pulp of such fruits is juicy, but more watery. They are good for freezing.

Small-fruited strawberries are commonly referred to as strawberries. The average weight of berries is 5-7 g, they are more fragrant, ripen faster. Bushes are less susceptible to gray rot, since the berries practically do not fall on the ground. Small-fruited strawberries are usually without whiskers, but, unlike large ones, can be propagated by their own seeds. Varieties: Ruyana, Forest Tale, Baron Solemacher, Rügen, Cinderella.

How to choose a variety

Before buying seeds and seedlings, the gardener must decide what is the main purpose of growing and what conditions can be created for strawberries on the site (it will grow in a garden or in a greenhouse, how much space can be allocated, whether the bushes will take cover for the winter).

• If the goal is harvesting for the future, you should choose varieties that ripen together and give a large mass. This is a large-fruited strawberry DSD. When buying, pay attention to the yield of varieties and the density of berries.

Variety name	Bush features	Features of berries		disease resistance
Queen Elizabeth 2 Up to 1.5 kg/s bush	Powerful, low, sprawling. Strong conjugation.	50 - 70 g. Asymmetrical, bumpy. Juicy and sweet and sour, medium density	Winter hardy. Suitable for growing in Siberia and the Urals.	Resistant to gray mold and blotch.
Zephyr Up to 1 kg/s bush	Tall with a thick peduncle.	40-60 g. Dark red, scallop-shaped. Quite sweet and dense.	Withstands frost if well covered with snow.	Resistant to gray mold and powdery mildew.
Moscow delicacy Up to 1.2 kg/s bush	Compact. Leaves are medium in size.	30 g. Bright red, shiny, with pinkish flesh. Sweet with moderate sourness, dense.	With excess moisture, it can give bitterness. Requires good shelter for the winter.	Average. Susceptible to fungal diseases.
Garland Up to 1.2 kg/s bush	Low, spherical, with a large number of mustaches.	30 g. Red-pink, oblong, dense, with a slight strawberry aroma.	Drought and frost resistance is average, loves semi-shady places. Suitable for vertical cultivation.	Susceptible to powdery mildew and fungal diseases.

• When grown mainly for food, it is worth paying attention to taste - in the description of the variety it should be indicated that the berries have a dessert taste. Preference should be given to NSD strawberries, which have medium and small fruits: it is sweeter and more aromatic, it bears fruit all summer.

Variety name	Bush features	Features of berries	Requirements for growing conditions	disease resistance
Marisol Up to 0.8 kg/s bush	Powerful and strong, the flowers are located above the leaves.	25 g. Dense, bright red, conical, sugary.	Drought resistant.	Very stable.
Ostara Up to 1 kg/s bush	Compact, with fruiting whiskers.	15 - 20 g. Very sweet, reminiscent of wild strawberries. Poorly tolerate transportation.	Requires constant preventive treatment for fungal diseases.	Susceptible to root diseases, gray rot.
mara de bois Up to 0.7 kg/s bush	Small, with short peduncles. Mustache gives little, but they bear fruit.	20 g. Conical, red-orange. With a strong strawberry aroma.	Can be grown ampelno. When ripe, the berries lie on the ground, stands are needed.	Subject to gray rot and spotting. Powdery mildew resistant.
Rügen Up to 0.5 kg/s bush	Compact, semi-spreading, beardless, with straight strong peduncles.	6 g. Bright red, oblong, sugary, with the aroma of wild berries.	Winter hardy.	Stable.

• In the case of commercial cultivation, pay attention to the possibility of transportation and keeping quality of berries, yield and attractive appearance.

Variety name	Bush features	Features of berries	Requirements for growing conditions	disease resistance
Albion Up to 1.5 kg/s bush	Very large and spreading, with powerful peduncles.	40 g. Bright red, oblong, very dense with a slight aroma. The taste is revealed during the second wave of fruiting.	Tolerates drought well. Can freeze - be sure to cover for the winter	Low.
Monterey Up to 2 kg/s bush	Powerful, with large leaves.	30 g. Dark cherry, glossy, oblong, fragrant and juicy	Winter hardiness is low - suitable for the southern regions.	Subject to powdery mildew.
San Andreas Up to 1 kg/s bush	Medium size with strong root system. Little mustache.	30 g. Firm, shiny, oblong, slightly sour, dense	On especially hot days, it needs shading. Demanding on the soil.	Very stable
Capri Up to 2 kg/s bush	Compact, medium height with straight powerful peduncles. Mustaches are few.	40 g. Burgundy, shiny Conical, with a dense skin	Frost-resistant, drought-resistant, does not require shading.	Stable

When to plant strawberries

Strawberry seeds are sown between February 15 and March 15, focusing on the characteristics of the variety and the lunar calendar.

Active growth of the plant occurs twice a year: in spring and in mid-summer. The first planting of seedlings in open ground in central Russia is carried out from April 15 to May 5, when the snow melts, the temperature is 10-12o. If young bushes grow under spunbond or film, you can plant a week earlier. Spring planting allows you to get a crop in the same year.

In summer, you can plant strawberries from July 25 to the 20th of August, so that the plant has time to take root and goes strong before winter. For these purposes, mustaches are usually used.

Growing remontant strawberries from seeds

This method of obtaining seedlings is quite laborious: young plants are very tender, their growth rate is low. However, after transplanting into open ground, they quickly grow stronger and accelerate growth.

Soil preparation and containers

Seeds should be germinated in a large flat container 5-7 cm high, with drainage holes at the bottom. From soils, strawberries prefer sandy loam, loam, humus. You can buy a universal soil in the store, before that, be sure to check the acidity: the soil should be slightly acidic or neutral (pH 5-6). Or independently prepare a mixture of biohumus, peat and sand in a ratio of 1:3:1. First, it is worth disinfecting the soil by calcining in the oven for half an hour at a temperature of 150 °. You can also get rid of harmful microorganisms with the help of special fungicides, potassium permanganate or by heating the soil for a couple. After the soil has cooled, pour it into a box, water it abundantly before planting.

Seed preparation

disembarkation

Strawberry seeds are small. To make it convenient to sow them, you can mix the seeds with sand. The resulting mixture is evenly scattered over the surface of the bowl. After that, you should sprinkle with water from a spray bottle, which will slightly pull the seeds into the soil.

Another way is to put a layer of snow on top of the soil, and then spread the seeds on it with tweezers at a distance of 2 cm between plants. The seeds will be visible, if desired, they can be moved. Then the container is placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 2-3 days. Melting snow will pull the seeds inside. This method does not require subsequent thinning and facilitates picking.

Care before sprouts appear

The container is covered with polyethylene or glass and placed in a bright warm place with a temperature of about 20o. It will feel best on the windows of the south or southeast side. To accelerate growth, with a lack of light, it can be used within 12 hours.

It is important to monitor the level of moisture in the soil: the earth should not dry out, but at the same time, excessive watering should be avoided so that mold does not grow and the seeds do not rot. Condensation on the lid of the greenhouse should be visible, but not collected in large drops.

Seedling Care

The first seeds will sprout in 2-3 weeks. Polyethylene should be removed 3-4 days after the mass appearance of sprouts. Up to this point - ventilate the young for 30 minutes twice a day.

When seedlings first appear, water should be carefully so as not to nail the tender shoots to the ground. This can be done with a teaspoon or pipette.

On too sunny and hot days, the sprouts need shading.

The pick is made in 6x6 cm pots in one and a half to two months, when 2-3 true leaves grow. Further care consists in moderate watering, loosening and gradual hardening. Plants with 3-4 carved leaves at the age of 2.5 months can be planted in open ground.

Buying ready seedlings

When buying ready-made planting material, you need to pay attention to:

• size and development of the sprout: seedlings must have at least 3 true leaves;
• the state of the root system: the roots should be light, more than 6 cm long, they should be visible from the drainage hole of the pot;
• the presence of a heart.

Landing in open ground

Choosing a place and preparing beds

When planning a site, remember that strawberries love well-lit areas. A place for culture is better to choose a flat or with a slight slope, oriented to the southwest. Groundwater should not be higher than one and a half meters. You should also follow the rules of crop rotation and take into account the neighborhood with other crops. Useful predecessors of strawberries are carrots, bulbous plants, beets, garlic, legumes. You can not re-plant in one place, and also plant after eggplant, tomatoes and potatoes. Of the neighbors, he prefers radishes, lettuce, peas, marigolds. It is better to avoid close planting with nightshades, sunflowers and Jerusalem artichokes.

After choosing a place, you should prepare the soil: dig a bed to a depth of 30 cm, remove the rhizomes of weeds. Next, the earth is fertilized with humus (a bucket per square meter) and left for two weeks.

Landing is carried out in two ways: a carpet or rows. The choice of one of them depends on the size of the allocated area, the characteristics of the variety and the convenience for gardeners. With the carpet method, seedlings are staggered, the distance between neighbors should be 25-30 cm. When seated in rows, a bed 60-70 cm wide is formed, 2 rows of plants are planted along it. The distance between adjacent bushes in one row is 30 cm. It is also possible to grow individual varieties vertically on a trellis, in a column.

You can immediately plant under the covering material to protect the crop from fungus, weeds, drying out or freezing. To do this, spread the required amount of canvas and press down on the edges with bricks or sprinkle with earth, make cross-shaped cuts in it for seedlings.

Landing

You can transplant sprouts when there is no active sun: in cloudy weather, and on clear days - in the morning and evening. Holes with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of up to 25 cm are prepared for each plant. 1 tbsp is placed in them. l. ash and superphosphate, which should be sprinkled with fertile soil and spilled abundantly from a watering can.

Plants are transplanted along with a clod of earth. For better adaptation, the roots of seedlings are dipped in a solution of heteroauxin (tablet per 5 liters of water) or sprinkled with Kornevin. When planting, buds, flowers and berries are removed so that all forces go into rooting. The heart cannot be buried: the growth point must be at ground level. After transplanting, be sure to spill the bed with water to tamp the soil and straighten the roots.

If there are withered seedlings during the first days, they should be removed to avoid rotting of the rest of the plants. In the hot sun for a week after planting, strawberries should be shaded with a special net.

strawberry care

Care consists in watering, mulching, protection against diseases and pests, fertilizing, preparing the plant for winter. To saturate the roots with oxygen, strawberries are loosened after rains 6-8 times per season. When aerial roots appear, the plant should be spudded.

To prevent overgrowing, you need to remove weeds and extra whiskers every 10-12 days.

Watering

Strawberries are watered early in the morning or in the evening - up to 18 hours. It is necessary to ensure that the soil is always moistened to a depth of 20-30 cm. This is especially important in the first days of planting and during the flowering period. With a lack of moisture, the berries will be small. However, excess water also has a negative effect on strawberries: it is affected by gray rot, the berries become watery and tasteless. Drip irrigation systems are recommended to maintain optimum moisture levels.

Mulching

Mulching with straw, mowed grass, sawdust, peat or needles will help facilitate the care of the beds. The mulch layer should be at least 5 cm. It prevents overheating and excessive nighttime cooling of the soil, protects the earth from drying out, the berries will not rot, and the earth will remain loose and free of weeds.

During the fruiting period, if there is no mulch, to protect against gray rot, you can tie the berries to pegs or put them on stands: bricks, boards.

top dressing

Remontant strawberries require fertilization. There are four obligatory top dressings: the first - in the spring, immediately after the snow melts, the second - during the appearance of peduncles, the third - during flowering, the fourth - in mid-August. In addition, in order to get a rich harvest, it is possible to additionally fertilize the soil, but not more than once every two weeks. To make up for the need for culture in nitrogen, an aqueous infusion of manure (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20) is added. Fertilizer insist 5 - 7 days and water the plants with 1 liter under the bush. This must be done before the 20th of July. Then exclude - otherwise active growth will begin under the cold. Then pour the mixture: on a bucket of water - 30 g of superphosphate, half a glass of ash. Insist for a day, add a liter under the root.

Bush update

Strawberries bear fruit well on the same bed for 4 years, after which the culture needs to be transferred and updated. In order not to be left without a crop, this can be done gradually: every year a quarter of the plantation is transplanted to a new place. With a carpet planting method, you will have to change the place every 2 years.

Preparing for winter

After the end of the main fruiting period in September, the bushes are pruned. This must be done in such a way that the plant has time to grow young leaves before frost. Remove old leaves, peduncles and mustaches. If they are affected by pests or diseases, it is better to burn them.

Propagation of strawberries

mustache

For mustache propagation, it is better to choose two-year-old bushes that have proven themselves well last season: healthy and strong, with large and tasty fruits. No more than 5 layers are taken from the mother liquor. To get strong shoots, after the first wave of berries, the selected plants should not be allowed to bear fruit. You need to wait until the mustache releases roots, dig them in. Only the first outlet is taken from the process, the rest are removed. You can cut off the shoot from the mother plant only when it has at least 3, and preferably 5-7 leaves. In August, the sockets are planted on a special distribution bed at a distance of 15 cm from each other. The next year they are transferred to a permanent place, the young will already produce a crop.

By dividing the bush

Remontant strawberries, especially its beardless form, can be propagated by dividing the bush. This can be done in spring or August. The plant should be large, have several points of growth. The selected bush is dug up, the roots are shaken off the soil and divided by hands into several parts so that each has light roots and a heart. When planting, it is recommended to treat the plot with drugs that stimulate root formation.

Sowing seeds in open ground

Small-fruited varieties can be propagated with their own seeds: sprinkle them on top of the garden bed and water. Often such strawberries propagate by self-sowing.

Diseases of remontant strawberries and their prevention

Like the common strawberry, the remontant variety is prone to disease and is loved by garden pests such as weevil, slugs, nematodes, ants, and strawberry mites. The fruits can be pecked by thrushes and jays.

You can evaluate the health of a bush by the state of the foliage. It should be even green, not curled. If the leaves dry out, this is a sign of phytophthora. If covered with a white coating and curled up, the plant is affected by powdery mildew. White or brown blotches signal fungal diseases.

Remontant strawberries bear fruit throughout the summer, so pests and diseases cannot be used pesticides. For the prevention of diseases, spraying with an infusion of garlic or Bordeaux mixture is carried out, after rain, the bushes are sprinkled with ash. Every 10 days, you can process the leaves with an infusion of dandelion tops (40o - 500 g of greenery per 10 liters of water, leave for 2 hours).

One of the most common problems that take away the strawberry crop is gray rot. The berries become soft, covered with a mold-like coating, and rot. To prevent gray rot, plants are sprayed 2-3 times before flowering with an iodine solution (dissolve 10 ml of iodine in 10 liters of water). This remedy is also effective in the defeat of peduncles by weevil.

Potassium salt can be sprinkled around bushes to control slugs. If the berries shrivel or become ugly, and the leaves curl and curl, the strawberry is affected by a nematode or strawberry mite, the diseased plants will have to be dug up and burned.

Remontant strawberries, or, as it is more correctly called, garden remontant strawberries, can increasingly be found in garden plots not only by amateurs, but also by professionals. She sometimes inhabits large territories, and the owners are satisfied with such coexistence. However, to my surprise, many people still have questions about the proper care of remontant garden strawberries, as if this overseas miracle was brought to our land just a couple of days ago.

Caring for remontant strawberry bushes. © Uteki

The main difference between remontant garden strawberries and ordinary strawberries is its ability to bloom and, accordingly, bear fruit twice a season, without interruption. Only a small fraction of plants have this ability - raspberries and a number of citrus fruits.

Garden strawberries of remontant varieties can lay flower buds either under long daylight conditions (for example, the Garland variety) or under neutral daylight conditions (for example, the Miracle of the World variety). It is noteworthy that varieties capable of laying flower buds in long daylight conditions give about 40% of their crop in July and up to 60% of their crop in August.

Remontant garden strawberry, capable of laying flower buds in neutral daylight conditions, blooms and bears fruit throughout the warm period, gradually giving up its crop. Given the great wear of plants, plantations of remontant strawberries that bear fruit twice a year also need to be changed once every three years, and those that bear fruit throughout the warm period - once every two years, each time changing the location of the site.

In our material, we will try to bring to your attention in as much detail as possible the subtleties of caring for remontant garden strawberries.

How to properly care for remontant garden strawberries?

By and large, varieties of remontant strawberries cannot be called capricious, they are all quite unpretentious, but there are still some subtleties in care. For example, everyone knows that modern large-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries can form berries weighing from 65 to 90 grams or more. Naturally, this will lead with a high degree of probability to a rather rapid depletion of the soil and the need to apply additional fertilizers. Perhaps that is why a number of gardeners, contrary to popular belief, are advised to remove the very first spring flower stalks.

Then the second crop of remontant strawberries, firstly, will be much earlier than the due date, therefore, the plants will prepare for winter without human intervention. Secondly, the berries will be tastier and larger. Sometimes, in total, the total yield after such a simple method even exceeds two cumulative yields or all-season - in remontant varieties of a different type.

Caring for remontant garden strawberries includes strictly mandatory steps - these are indispensable watering (the plants must be provided with plenty of moisture), fertilizer (everything is good in moderation, but the plants should not suffer from a deficiency of one or another element), loosening the soil (after each watering and rain to avoid the formation of soil crust when air and water exchange is disturbed), mulching the beds (after each watering, as it inhibits the growth of weeds and the formation of soil crust), weed control (especially with wheatgrass - the most malicious competitor of crops) , destruction of pests and diseases (at the earliest stages of their manifestation), pruning of bushes (a specific procedure for remontant strawberries) and, finally, preparation for winter (an important stage in the life of remontant garden strawberries).

Important! Gardeners who have gone through fire and water recommend necessarily mulching beds with remontant garden strawberries, because the root system of this berry crop, unlike common strawberries, is located high, and plants very often suffer from a banal lack of moisture. To save irrigation water, you need to use mulch almost immediately after watering (and it is better to water with water at room temperature and in the evening). Mulch can be spruce needles, sawdust, straw, humus, hay, ordinary mowed grass. In addition to protecting against moisture loss, the mulch will also protect the berries from splashing with soil during rain and watering and will slow down the growth of weeds (do not forget about them!).

Caring for remontant strawberries. © Alison

Watering remontant strawberries

Remontant varieties of garden strawberries need to be watered more often than ordinary strawberries, especially in the dry seasons of the year. Immediately after planting the seedlings, the plants must be watered every day, then after five or six days, watering can be done every other day, and in the end, watering just a couple of times a month is enough.

For watering remontant strawberries, you can only use warm water at room temperature, it’s great if it is rainwater collected in a barrel painted black. Plantings can be watered both in the morning and evening chats. When watering, try to ensure that the soil in the area where remontant garden strawberries grow is moistened from two to three centimeters at a time.

As for the mulch of remontant strawberries, as we already wrote above, it is needed, but it is not at all necessary to cover the soil with mulch immediately after watering, this can be done the next day. Instead of mulch, if, for example, it is raining, the soil between the rows can be gently loosened. But remember: it is very important not to damage the roots, which, as we have already written, are located closer to the soil surface than those of common strawberries. The main thing when mulching or loosening is to avoid soil crust so that air can freely penetrate to the roots.

If there is no rain for a long period and the soil dries up, then you can break all the rules of watering and moisten the soil almost every day, not allowing the soil to dry out too much, this is very important. If the soil is already very dry, for example, in a country house where you have not been for several days, then first loosen the soil very carefully, and then water it, but do not do the opposite. Frequent watering is especially important for varieties of remontant strawberries of neutral daylight hours; Why, I think that there is no need to explain. The same varieties require more frequent and thorough weeding, especially after rain and the removal of dying leaves that turn red.

Fertilizer for remontant strawberries

It is clear that remontant garden strawberries are very depleted and they definitely need the right top dressing. The most actively remontant garden strawberries consume elements such as nitrogen and potassium from the soil. But she needs phosphorus, but to a small extent. Taking this into account, phosphorus fertilization can be carried out only once, introducing doses of superphosphate (15-20 g per square meter) only when laying a plantation of remontant garden strawberries.

An approximate scheme for feeding remontant strawberries is as follows:

Usually, the first feeding of remontant strawberries is carried out in the third decade of May, during this period urea is used, the composition is very weak - one gram or two (if the soil is poor, per bucket of water), this is the norm per square meter of soil. Approximately in the second half of June, when flower stalks of already re-fruiting begin to actively form, mullein can be introduced (1: 10 - in the amount of 0.5 liters per square meter or bird droppings 1: 15 - in the amount of 0.3 liters per square meter). It is quite acceptable to use, along with organic fertilizers, newfangled mineral supplements, such as Mortar Kristallin or Kemira Lux.

In general, ideally, the whole season should be stretched so that there are about ten top dressings, alternating these fertilizers.

The second option for fertilizing remontant strawberries is when, at the very beginning of June, plants are fed not only with slurry diluted 10 times and bird droppings 15 times, but also with the addition of 1% urea (1 g per bucket of water) to this composition, all this composition should be spent on 2 - 3 square meters of the site.

Fertilizer remontant strawberries. © SunnysideLOCAL

Diseases of remontant strawberries

Gray rot

Gray rot often attacks garden strawberries. It manifests itself most actively in thickened plantations, where soil loosening is not carried out and frequent watering is carried out, especially by sprinkling and cold water. Gray rot can affect all above-ground organs of the plant, which will lead to losses of up to 85% of the total crop. In order to prevent the appearance of gray rot on remontant strawberries, it is necessary to plant on the site in accordance with the characteristics of the strength of growth and development of a particular variety, carry out soil mulching, as well as sufficient, but not excessive watering. At the first sign of infection, the affected parts of the plants should be removed.

As a preventive measure, plants can be treated at the very beginning of the growing season with 2.0% Bordeaux liquid, and after harvesting at the very end of the growing season, to consolidate the result, with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur.

There are also fungicides to fight the disease, but you can only use approved ones, in full accordance with the instructions on the package, for example, Strobi, Switch, Euparen, Triadimefon (Bayleton), Kaptan. Alirin-B is considered the safest biological product from the recommended list.

brown spot

It manifests itself when, as in the previous case, strawberry plantations are thickened, there is too much moisture, and day and night temperatures jump noticeably. As a preventive measure, remove all dry leaves in the spring so that the infection does not “sit down” on them and carry out treatments with 2% Bordeaux liquid. Do not forget about mulching, which will not allow the fungus to get to the surface.

If the disease is very active, then use approved fungicides, strictly following the instructions on the package, for example, Skor, Strobi, Fundazol.

powdery mildew

The first sign of the onset of this disease is the purple color of the strawberry leaf blades, then they curl up and turn ash-gray, as if sprinkled with old flour. If you do not want this disease to visit you, then in early spring, treat the plants with a weak (slightly pink) solution of potassium permanganate or 1% colloidal sulfur.

There are also fungicides, but use only approved ones and exactly in accordance with the instructions on the package, for example, Topaz, Fundazol, Tilt, Strobi and Fitosporin-M.

Brown spotting on strawberry leaves. © Tip10
Powdery mildew on strawberry leaves. © gov.au

Remontant strawberry pests

The first pests of remontant strawberries personally in my area are slugs. I saved myself from them by planting garlic between the rows: honestly, I didn’t see a single slug again.

strawberry mite

It is considered a much more dangerous pest of strawberries: if it damages young leaves, then they are quite actively twisted and turn yellow. The plant itself is sharply inhibited in growth. The tick can infect from half to the entire plantation, and without treatments it can lead to its death.

It helps to overcome the tick with a 3% solution of colloidal sulfur, only it can be used very early in the spring and after harvesting the entire crop. Well, and of course - all sorts of permitted acaricides.

strawberry nematode

Usually, if a strawberry is infected with a nematode, then its leaves are deformed and twisted. A characteristic feature can be seen on the petioles: they become too fragile and sometimes break even from the wind. Fruiting on such plants is either weak or absent altogether. The nematode is considered a quarantine pest, if it is present on the site, the plants are subject to immediate removal and burning.

spider mite

Usually, strawberry leaves become as if sluggish, and if they are turned over, traces of the activity of the tick are visible - a cobweb. As a result, the leaf blades turn yellow and dry out ahead of time. Gardeners write that Karbofos helps very well against spider mites. After harvesting the entire crop, they process the plants and cover them with a film for several days.

Signs of damage to strawberries by strawberry, or cyclamen mites. © K. Lynch Dead strawberry plants affected by the strawberry nematode. © Surendra Dara Strawberries affected by spider mites. © Surendra Dara

Pruning remontant strawberries

Caring for remontant strawberry bushes, among other things, also includes pruning. Usually pruning of bushes is enough to do once a season - either in spring or autumn.

If you live in a cold region where remontant strawberries require shelter, then pruning should be done in the fall. This is done as follows: after the final harvest of the entire crop, the lower leaf blades are removed from the bush, trying not to affect the upper leaf blades, because it is in their axils that fruit buds are laid, from which fruits will form next season.

In the event that berries do not form at all on the mustache and the gardener does not plan to propagate remontant garden strawberries in this way, then the removal of the mustache is mandatory.

Remember, however, this rule: after the first fruiting of remontant garden strawberries, the mustache is usually not removed, but the leaves that have begun to dry out, have formed spots or hide more developed and healthy leaves must be removed. The removal of such leaves can be carried out in the fall, immediately after the entire harvest, when the foliage slowly begins to dry out.

If you are a resident of a cold region, then take your time and transfer this operation to the spring, remove such leaves after the snow cover has completely disappeared.

Important! Many neglect the pruning of dead leaves and mustaches of remontant garden strawberries, however, their removal is like a shield that protects plants from pathogens, because it is on diseased, old foliage that the infection hibernates.

Autumn care and preparation for wintering

Plants of remontant strawberries of a long sunny day often do not fully mature by the end of the season, especially if they are not grown in a greenhouse. Given this, not only part of the crop is lost, but plants that do not have time to adapt to cold and frost sometimes suffer. The best option to save such plants is to cover them with fresh straw 5-8 cm thick, and sketch spruce branches on top, which will keep the straw from flying all over the site.

Repair strawberry garden. © siliconinvestor

Outcome

As you can see, growing remontant garden strawberries does not present any particular difficulties, and even a beginner can handle this matter, not to mention a professional.

Do not forget, however, although we already wrote about this, that the life of the plantation should be no more than three years, after which the plantings need to be updated.