Groundwater basement floor waterproofing. How to prevent dampness from entering the house: waterproofing the basement

Protection of basements from groundwater and precipitation should be provided at the construction stage. But repeated waterproofing may be required due to its destruction during the operation of the building.

Causes of excessive dampness in the basement

A large accumulation of water and its condensate in the basement can occur for the following reasons:
deformation of the foundation in old buildings and the presence of cracks in the ceilings and joints through which water seeps;
lack of a blind area or its destruction and, as a result, leakage of sewage under the foundation;
groundwater rise.

Dampness in the basement

In all of the above cases, carry out waterproofing only inside the basement would be a waste of money. Moreover, when delaying the repair of the foundation and the blind area, a violation of the integrity of the building may occur. Basement waterproofing from the inside is carried out in this case only as additional protection against moisture.

If groundwater is close to the surface
Trying to pump (drain) groundwater from the basement is not a very smart decision. Groundwater is a kind of river that extends far beyond the house. Fortunately, in most cases it is located deep underground. If she came close to the surface, you should not even try to scoop her out.

For the first couple of years, the basement will fill with water really not so fast. But after her regular pumping ducts(channels that communicate with underground water), in your basement clean up, and it will be necessary to pump out water not only during floods, but all year round. Moreover, too radical water disposal measures can cost the life of the foundation, and, as a result, the whole house.

Location of groundwater

Perhaps the only solution to the problem of flooding the cellar in this case is basement floor raising to a considerable height.

Basement drainage

Basement waterproofing should only be done in summer after the flood and the decrease in groundwater activity. To remove condensate, all ventilation systems must be fully opened. In difficult cases, you can use a heat gun.

Important! Excess water can be scooped out, but not pumped out, so as not to wash out the ducts and increase its flow!

Cellar or basement vent scheme

Raising and waterproofing the floor in the basement

It is very difficult to cope with groundwater. But, if the foundation is dry, it is quite possible that in the basement there is only somewhere a spring is trying to break through. In this case, raising the basement or subfloor floor to a considerable height will help to cope with the problem. This will also help if the groundwater has not risen too high.

A wonderful old-fashioned way is the construction for protection against underground waters of the so-called "clay castle". It is envisaged at the construction stage and laid on the foundation. In our case, before backfilling and pouring the floor, it will be laid in a layer of 40 cm only in the cellar.

"Clay Castle"

1. For the construction of a “clay castle”, the earth in the cellar or subfield is selected before dampness appears and is replaced with clay. Use only the fattest, which will not let water through. Clay is desirable to take dry or slightly moistened so that it collects the remaining moisture from the floor when stirred. Such a “castle” is laid in small layers, while each layer is carefully rammed (in the old days, clay was kneaded with feet). By the walls it should be hammered as tightly as possible.
2. Next fit and the sand is compacted, and it is better to use a denser screening.
3. Sleeps on him rubble layer.

Pouring concrete

4. Before the screed layer is laid waterproofing(roofing material, polymer film, isoplast, etc.).
5. The last layer will be reinforced concrete layer 5 cm, which will give the necessary load. To reduce the pressure of water on its surface from below, the screed can be supported on the walls. To do this, they hollow out holes into which are inserted steel beams.
6. To insure against swelling of the floor, you can make it heavier by laying a double layer of concrete. To do this, the first layer, aged for drying for 2 weeks, is covered with mastic and roofing material, and then another layer of sand-cement mixture is applied again.

Basement wall waterproofing

Dampness in basements or cellars is often caused by water seeping through small holes (capillaries) in the walls. Waterproofing basement walls with the help of special compounds (liquid glass, bitumen, etc.) and roll materials is possible only if the building is erected in fairly dry areas.

In other cases, the floor and walls should become single monolith of concrete. Wall coating is better carried out with a solution tension cement. Concrete made from NC cement has a tensile strength 20-30% higher than normal. Such walls will not crack and are able to withstand the pressure of the soil when it is mobile.

Advice. In the corners of the walls, as well as at the joints of the floor and ceiling, it is desirable to lay elastic lock. To do this, the tow is moistened in bituminous mastic and laid along the walls.

Before starting work with a puncher, it is necessary to completely remove the previous finish up to the foundation. If the old concrete is of poor quality, the damaged seams are knocked out, and all voids are restored with a sand-concrete mortar.

Advice. Adding liquid glass to the solution is possible only when mixing a small amount of concrete to strengthen small areas, since such a mixture will already set when mixed.

Wall cleaning

Stages of coating waterproofing of walls with NTs cement
1. Before starting waterproofing, to prevent gaps, it is necessary to smooth out all internal corners: there should not be too sharp corners and transitions.
2. To dampen deformations at the joints, all places where metal or plastic pipes pass and where they connect with wooden structures are coated with elastic compounds or wrapped with sealant.
3. Solutions from such cement are applied to the walls like ordinary plaster in layers, with each layer 15 mm thick. The total thickness of the wall coating is from 3 mm.

Coating waterproofing

4. In corners, junctions and joints, it is better to reinforce the walls with wire mesh.
5. The surface should dry slowly. To increase the durability of such a coating, even in a damp basement, so that the walls do not harden ahead of time, they are periodically moistened for 10 days.

Basement sealing

Very often, condensation in the basement is formed due to temperature differences due to the rise of warm air from living quarters. In such a situation, external hydro- and thermal insulation would be an ideal solution.

To do this, first a plastic film or any other vapor barrier material with overlapping strips is attached to the ceiling, then the bars are nailed. Any heat-insulating material is laid between them. To protect it from moisture, a layer of waterproofing is laid on top.

Thermal insulation of the basement

Regardless of the groundwater level, basement waterproofing is still necessary. Indeed, in a few years, the level of precipitation may change or, due to human intervention, the level of groundwater may rise.

What affects the quality of basement waterproofing?

Waterproofing exclusively from the inside from groundwater is ineffective. It is important to carry out a whole range of measures even at the construction stage - to arrange a clay water castle under the floor and blind area, to make drainage and external waterproofing.

If the house was already fully built, and the basement began to get wet, it is better to dig out the foundation and check the condition of the external insulation. Sometimes the insulation is attached to the foundation with "umbrellas", damaging the waterproofing layer.

Also very often the device of the drainage system for the removal of melt water is neglected. But without it, it is impossible to guarantee the dryness of the basement, even with high-quality internal waterproofing.

In addition, a properly arranged blind area around the house will help to partially solve the problem of high humidity in the basement, which will prevent precipitation from penetrating to the foundation:

• the width of the blind area must be equal to or greater than the depth of the foundation;
• depth - not less than 30 cm;
• a 10-centimeter layer of clay is laid on the bottom, which is watered and compacted as tightly as possible;
• 5 cm of crushed stone is poured on top and also rammed;
• another 5 cm of sand is laid on the rubble, which is rammed wet;
• the resulting pillow is poured with concrete and, if desired, decorative paving slabs are laid.

Only after the device of drainage, external waterproofing and blind areas, you can proceed to internal work.

Types of internal waterproofing

Depending on the type of water penetration, there are three types of internal waterproofing:

1. Anti-pressure - protects against groundwater that comes under pressure. In this case, the water literally “springs” from under the floor.
2. Anti-capillary - protects against moisture seepage through the pores in the walls. Manifested by constant moisture on surfaces without visible damage.
3. Non-pressure - prevents the penetration of water during prolonged precipitation. Moisture on the walls appears only during the period of rains and snowmelt.

Materials for waterproofing the basement from the inside are also used, depending on the method chosen. So, for anti-pressure insulation, roll materials are used - budget roofing material or modern euroisolation. Anticapillary isolation is done with penetrating solutions - penetrates, which clog pores with water-insoluble crystals. And non-pressure insulation can be done with coating materials - bituminous mastics or concrete-based compositions.

Anti-pressure internal waterproofing

This is the most difficult type of internal waterproofing. Under the pressure of groundwater, any insulation will “leave” over time, so it is very important to strengthen the floor and walls as much as possible. To do this, you will have to sacrifice interior space - raise the floor level and increase the thickness of the walls:

It is important to pay attention to the waterproofing of the joints of the walls with the ceiling. They can be smeared with mastic in several layers. Each new layer can be applied only after a couple of hours. In addition, it is necessary to insulate the outlets of communications well - with mastic, bentonite or a sealing sleeve.

Anti-capillary waterproofing

To reduce the hygroscopicity of the cement walls and basement floor, they are covered from the inside with several layers of penetrate. Such a composition penetrates the already set cement to a depth of 25 cm. Some manufacturers claim a penetration depth of up to 90 cm, but this indicator can only be achieved by adding special reagents to the concrete solution at the stage of pouring the foundation.

Applying penetrating waterproofing is extremely simple:

Given the antibacterial and non-toxic composition of such mixtures, they can be used to treat the cellar where food will be stored. By blocking moisture in the outer layers of concrete, its frost resistance increases, and the walls will not be covered with frost even in the most severe winters.

Non-pressure waterproofing

The most budgetary and easiest option for do-it-yourself waterproofing is mastic processing. A more modern option is the application of liquid rubber. But the principle for all types of liquid waterproofing is the same:

1. The walls and floor are cleaned of debris and dust, and the room is well dried.
2. First, the floor and the joints between the floor and walls are processed. They begin to wear mastic from the wall farthest from the door, gradually moving towards the exit.
3. All cracks are carefully filled with mastic with a layer of 2 cm.
4. A second layer of mastic is applied with a lighter texture - to give the treated surfaces a uniform color and texture.
5. After the waterproofing has dried, a cement screed is made on the floor, and cement plaster is applied to the walls.
6. For greater reliability, a reinforcing mesh can be fixed on the walls and plastered with a 3-centimeter layer.

Paint waterproofing can only be used for basements and cellars located above the groundwater level. It is applied in a thin layer - up to 6 mm, so it cannot withstand a large amount of water. For such insulation, a bituminous or epoxy mixture with the addition of polymers is used.

For example, bitumen-nairite mastic can be used at temperatures up to -15 without losing its elastic properties. And epoxy-tar, although applied in a thick layer, is characterized by increased strength and does not freeze with external ice when the walls freeze.

What is important to remember when arranging basement waterproofing

Summing up, here are the basic principles for organizing basement waterproofing from the inside:

In addition, internal waterproofing will not replace external waterproofing, drainage and blind areas. This is a temporary measure, so it is necessary to correct the situation as soon as possible. Otherwise, you will have to repeat the procedure for isolating the basement from the inside regularly. And this is an extra waste of time, effort and money.

About what to do in case of severe flooding of the basement and how to arrange waterproofing in this case, is described in the video:

Kirill Sysoev

Calloused hands do not know boredom!

Content

Many functions can be performed by the basement of a country house - a technical room, a cellar for food, an underground garage. The trouble is if groundwater begins to penetrate into it. It needs to be protected from leaks. If such work was not carried out during the construction phase, they can be carried out at any time from inside the basement.

Why do you need basement waterproofing?

If the house is built in an area where groundwater is shallow, then flooding is possible in a room located below ground level. This situation occurs when the protection is poorly made. It is possible that the aquifer has changed its level. It is urgent to correct the situation. If you do not arrange waterproofing of the basement from the inside from groundwater, it is possible:

• the appearance of a fungus;
• mold development;
• reinforcement corrosion;
• destruction of the foundation;
• food spoilage;
• violation of the microclimate throughout the house.

Types of waterproofing

The most reliable is to make protection from the outside, then the rising liquid will press it against the building, providing reliable insulation. If necessary, a barrier from the inside from seepage through small pores or cracks, two types of insulation are used - vertical and horizontal. The quality of the barrier is affected by errors in the performance of work:

• processing only walls and floors, without ceilings;
• lack of natural ventilation.

Vertical waterproofing of basement walls

If it is necessary to waterproof the walls of the basement from the inside from groundwater, a vertical method of protection is used. It is used in a situation where liquid seeps through cracks, foundation joints, while the walls of the basement are at the level with the aquifer. For a vertical flood barrier, the following methods are suitable:

• membrane;
• injection;
• coating - applying bituminous mastic;
• plaster with a polymer composition;
• barrier with liquid glass, rubber.

Horizontal

If the basement floor is at the level of the aquifer, liquid can seep into the room, and horizontal waterproofing of the basement floor is necessary. It is additionally performed along the walls to a height of 30 centimeters. This protects the basement from capillary penetration of moisture, the rise of groundwater. Perform such isolation from leaks:

• roll method;
• polymer filling method.

What materials are used

For insulation, there are a huge number of materials. Often, in addition to ground seepage, there is a flow of communications. When choosing materials, it must be taken into account that penetrating protection will save from groundwater, melt water, capillary leakage. In case of utility accidents, mastics, coating emulsions are effective. Such materials from leaks are effective:

• roll insulation;
• penetrating compounds;
• liquid rubber;
• membrane film;
• liquid glass.

Roll insulation

Waterproofing the basement from the inside from groundwater, when floor protection is necessary, is carried out in a roll way. The bitumen-based material is glued with an overlap on the surface, the joints and seams are melted with a blowtorch. Bituminous mastic is used as glue. Subsequent work is carried out depending on the flood situation. If the water rises often, they coat it with bitumen in 4 layers on top, if rarely, two are enough. After drying, a concrete screed is made and the building can be operated. Roll protection materials:

• ruberoid;
• hydroisol;
• linokrom.

Penetrating basement waterproofing

This method is effective when the house has a cellar with high groundwater. The waterproofing of the basement walls from the inside is carried out with a material from a mixture of cement, fine sand and chemically active components. The composition penetrates 100 mm deep due to its viscous properties, and then crystallizes. This method of protection:

• prevents the rise of fluid through the capillaries;
• reduces corrosion of structures;
• increases frost resistance;
• can be used in rooms with food products.

Membrane

Effective waterproofing of the cellar from the inside, made by the membrane method. A light film 2 mm thick does not overload the foundation, has an adhesive layer, and is easy to use. The following types of membrane coatings are used:

• PVC - prevents the penetration of groundwater, fireproof.
• TPO membranes - based on propylene and rubber, the disadvantage is the high cost. Used to protect the bathroom, kitchen, toilet;
• EPDM membranes made of synthetic rubber. Can protect the room at low temperatures.

injection

Very reliable injection insulation not only protects surfaces, but also the entire building structure. The execution process is very laborious - it is required to drill a huge number of holes into which a special composition is pumped with special injectors. Mixes are used in the work:

• cement - increase strength characteristics;
• polyurethane - push out the liquid from the inside during expansion;
• epoxy - use only in the place where it leaks;
• methyl acrylate - penetrate deeply, fill cavities.

Liquid rubber

If it is necessary to insulate the basement floor, it is good to use liquid rubber. Made on a bituminous basis with the addition of latex, it creates a durable film on the surface. The elastic coating can also be applied by coating on walls and ceilings. A layer 2 mm thick is enough. Isolation technology is as follows:

• a special composition is applied to the cleaned surface for better setting;
• coat the surface, filling joints and cracks;
• dry;
• plastered on top to press the film, otherwise the surface under it may collapse.

Liquid glass

The basement waterproofing from the inside from groundwater using liquid glass is distinguished by ease of application and low material consumption. Before application, the composition is diluted with water. It fills the pores, crystallizes when solidified, due to this:

• improved resistance to fungi, mold;
• increases the strength of the structure;
• there is no moisture absorption;
• increases resistance to mechanical stress;
• there is good protection to decorative coatings.

Basement waterproofing from groundwater Penetron

How to make basement waterproofing if moisture appears on the walls? A high-quality coating is guaranteed by the Penetron tool. The dry mixture is diluted to a liquid state with water, applied to the surface with a brush. Penetrates inside walls by 200 millimeters, prevents the penetration of liquids, but allows steam to pass through. It can protect walls made of stone, brick, withstands any pressure of the aquifer. Solution features:

• convenient coating technology;
• does not require special preparation of the walls;
• environmentally friendly;
• It is applied only on a damp surface in 2 layers.

How to properly waterproof a basement from the inside? You need to follow certain recommendations:

• determine the depth of groundwater;
• explore the premises;
• determine the places where water flows;
• note the presence of cracks;
• pump out water, if necessary;
• clean from dirt, dust;
• expand cracks;
• carry out surface treatment with a primer so that adhesion is better;
• choose the material and method of protection;
• carry out isolation;
• dry the room;
• equip the ventilation system.

basement waterproofing prices

Do-it-yourself basement waterproofing from the inside will be inexpensive. First you need to choose the method of protection that suits your premises. Then find in the catalog and buy in the online store the materials required for work. It is better to entrust the insulation of basements from moisture to representatives of specialized city firms. The range of prices in rubles is:

• surface insulation "Penetron" - 900-1400 / m2;
• sealing interblock seams with penetration - 1700-2100 / m / p .;
• surface injection - 22000-2500/m2;
• processing with liquid rubber - 900-1200 / m2.

Video: how to waterproof the cellar from groundwater

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The floor in the basement is exposed to moisture. If you decide to concrete the cellar, then you should definitely lay waterproofing. It will help keep the room dry.

General principles

Waterproofing can be done in the basement immediately during construction, as well as already in the finished room, after a while. It is made using special materials, which are laid in several layers on the floor.

Some try to solve this issue with the help of sealing. This is the wrong decision, because even a very good sealant at the joints will let moisture through. In addition, when choosing a waterproofing and its installation, it is necessary to pay attention to the height of the groundwater. Additional drainage may be needed.

An excellent option is to carry out work, both from the outside of the basement, and from the inside. Such waterproofing will reliably protect from any water. If work is carried out at the stage of building a basement, then it is necessary to strictly follow the plan. Work on waterproofing the clay floor in the cellar, as well as in any basement, should be carried out in the summer, in warm and dry weather.

In the absence of waterproofing, concrete walls and floors in the basement will gradually crack, as well as mold and fungus. Oh, and the smell is bad too. It is important to waterproof the earthen floor in the basement of a wooden house, since excess moisture can adversely affect the entire wooden structure.

Description of waterproofing methods

Waterproofing can be done in one of several ways, each of which is convenient and useful in its own way. When choosing a method of isolation, you must consider which waters are of most concern to you. It is one thing if you are afraid of flooding, and quite another if the moisture comes from groundwater or condensation on the wall.

Here are the main ways:

1. Non-pressure waterproofing is responsible for preventing the penetration of rain and floods from floods.
2. Anti-pressure. It is used as protection against ground waters.
3. Anticapillary. Helps with a large number of drops of moisture that collect on walls and in crevices.

In addition, there are additionally several ways to waterproof the basement floor specifically:

1. The painting method is carried out if the room has high-quality concrete floors. The material for such insulation will be polymer-bitumen substances, as well as bitumen-rubber.
2. Cellar floor waterproofing. One of the most common ways; helps with low humidity in the room. In this case, several layers of special material are laid on the floor, most often roofing material.
3. Impregnation method. Impregnation mixtures are used before finishing the room. The basis for the material can be bitumen or polymer varnishes.
4. Injection. The method is penetrating, in which the gel is injected into all cavities and openings. The method is difficult for non-specialists. It needs a master to do it.
5. Cast insulation. The floor in the basement is completely filled with a special mortar or mastic.
6. Membrane. Roll waterproofing using membrane materials.

Which method to choose, the owner decides individually, depending on the quality and material and financial costs. You should also pay attention to the mechanical impact on the walls and floor. Not every waterproofing can withstand significant impact.

Materials and main stages of work

After you have chosen how and with what to fill the floor in the basement so that there is no water, you need to start work. The steps may vary. To begin with, we will analyze the device of multilayer waterproofing:

1. Remove a small layer of soil. Then tamp.
2. Put a layer of clay, previously kneaded.
3. Then we fall asleep 10 cm each of crushed stone and sand.
4. Concrete coating, draft version.
5. Euroroofing material on top, so that there are no gaps between the strips. To do this, overlap the rolls. Solder all joints, the material should protrude onto the walls.
6. Then expanded polystyrene is laid out up to 5 cm thick.
7. Reinforcement or mesh is attached to which concrete will be poured.

If penetrating waterproofing is chosen, then it is necessary to wet the walls or floor in the basement. Then remove all the mold that has accumulated in the room. Apply penetrant solution. To do this, you need a wide brush. Use a syringe to fill all cracks and voids.

After two hours, the waterproofing is considered ready, you can apply cement on top, if necessary. This method is very convenient in cold regions, since the absence of moisture in cracks increases the resistance of concrete to low temperatures.

With the coating method, experts advise pouring a screed over bituminous materials. Ideally, you should use a polymer mastic, which is both easier to apply and dries faster. The advantages of coating materials are that they are relatively affordable and easy to handle, which has a positive effect on the speed of work.

It is important to note that penetrating and coating materials are less resistant to groundwater pressure, and therefore they are better used in dry and hot climates.

Basement isolation from groundwater from the inside can be carried out using liquid rubber (bitumen-based substance). In addition, liquid glass is used. Based on sodium silicate, soda and sand. Liquid glass requires the presence of metal structures on the surface.

First of all, it is necessary to thoroughly dry the basement and ventilate it. Then, according to the instructions, apply liquid rubber, the advantage of which is the absence of seams and joints. It is necessary to make several layers, but each separately must dry and grab. A concrete screed must be mounted on top.

Finally

Basement waterproofing instructions are not particularly difficult. You just need to choose the right material, as well as the method of application. In addition, you should definitely take into account the climatic conditions of your region, since they determine how reliable waterproofing you need.

Proper protection of the basement from groundwater and precipitation is a key condition that determines the durability and safety of any building. In private houses that have been in operation for a long time, the waterproofing of the cellar from the inside can be done by a home craftsman at any time.

Self-waterproofing - what to consider?

Experts say that the issues of protecting the cellar (underground, basement, basement floor) of private housing construction must be addressed comprehensively at the stage of housing construction. Then problems with groundwater from the owner of the house are extremely rare. But not always during the construction of a residential building, the standards of its proper waterproofing are observed. Over time, this leads to flooding of the cellars, the appearance of constant dampness and mold in them, which causes the destruction of the structural elements of the foundation. It is impossible to put up with such a state of affairs, because living in a damp house is unrealistic.

Now the isolation of cellars is carried out in different ways, using both modern and well-known materials. When doing such work with your own hands, you should pay attention to the following problem areas of the basement spaces:

• Working seams. They are understood as connections formed at the construction sites of the formwork and during the concreting of basements.
• Joints between ceiling and floor surfaces with wall surfaces.
• Faults and gaps, the appearance of which is due to shrinkage of the house.
• Plots for laying engineering communications (sewerage, water supply, and so on).

Waterproofing can be horizontal and vertical. The first is performed if the base of the cellar is at the level of available water (groundwater). This protection is by gender. It eliminates the risk of raising soil water into the cellar and the penetration of capillary moisture into it. Note what needs to be done in any case. Even if right now there is no real need for it. The situation can change very quickly due to increased rainfall, changes in the land, leading to a rise in the level of water occurrence, and other reasons.

Vertical moisture protection is recommended for cellars that do not have an equipped drainage system. It is also indispensable if the walls of the basement coincide with the existing level of soil water. In most cases, vertical insulation is done in conjunction with horizontal insulation. In this case, the effectiveness of subfloor protection is significantly increased.

According to the level of moisture impact on the structural elements of the basement, hydroprotection is usually divided into:

• anticapillary;
• non-pressure;
• anti-pressure.

Anti-capillary insulation is designed to protect the room from moisture and dampness that enter it through the pores of the materials from which the building was built. Non-pressure is used in heavy rains, spring floods, floods. And the anti-pressure one is needed in the absence of drainage, when the level of soil water rises to 10 m. Its construction involves the creation of a single reliable barrier. The anti-pressure system works due to water pressure, which literally presses the used waterproofing into the surface. Such protection is arranged outside. It is not used from inside the basement.

Traditional insulation materials – proven but short-lived

The selection of suitable waterproofing products for basements is not an easy matter. You can't go wrong here. Until recently, do-it-yourself subfloor protection was carried out exclusively with the help of coating (it is also called painting) or welded insulation. These traditional materials have proven their effectiveness. They are inexpensive, have certain advantages. But they also have many shortcomings. The main one is that even with a relatively weak pressure of water, the welded and coating insulations swell and begin to move away from the surface in layers. As a result, there is a need for the installation of new materials, since the old ones cease to fulfill their task.

Coating waterproofing is a multicomponent cement-polymer composition. He can be:

• hard (is a special mixture in dry form);
• flexible (dry component plus a special polymer-based emulsion).

The price of such materials is low. They are easy to use. All work is done quickly, and the help of specialists for home craftsmen is not needed. Coating mastics are applied to cleaned wet walls with a spatula, a paint roller, or an ordinary brush.

Surfacing products have similar properties. They are produced in the form of rolls, made on a polymer or bitumen basis. The most famous insulators of this type are hydroisol and roofing material, popular among domestic consumers. They are either fixed on an adhesive mastic, or fused. Disadvantages of roll materials:

• short duration of operation;
• exposure to fungi, mold;
• high brittleness at low temperatures, leading to the destruction of the protective material.

Nowadays, polymer and bituminous products are used less and less. Consumers prefer more modern insulators. About them further.

Modern moisture protectors - penetrating and membrane

The waterproofing used in recent years is devoid of many of the disadvantages of traditional materials. The choice of modern means to prevent moisture from entering the basement is carried out taking into account:

• purpose of the underground;
• the presence of a drainage system around the foundation;
• rainfall intensity in the region and groundwater levels;
• foundation type and material.

The new generation of materials for waterproofing basements usually include penetrating and membrane insulation, as well as liquid glass and rubber. Let's consider them in more detail. Penetrating waterproofing is characterized by a long service life, ease of application, easy, fast and deep (up to 0.6 m) penetration into the concrete structure while maintaining the vapor transmission potential of the latter. It eliminates the risk of mechanical damage to the treated surface, increases the resistance of concrete to negative temperatures, while increasing its moisture protection capabilities.

In the process of application, penetrating compounds fill the structures to be protected, after which they crystallize due to the presence of special reagents in them - penetrates. The functions of these are usually performed by the following compounds and elements - alkali metal carbonates, aluminum oxide, natural silica.

Penetrating compositions are ideal for protecting basements from the inside. The technology of their use is simple. First, we clean the surface, degrease it. These operations provide high-quality opening of concrete pores. Some experts advise additionally brushing the base with a metal brush to make the surface rougher. Then the mixture for insulation will penetrate into it in a larger amount.

1. 1. Mix dry insulation with water. The proportions of the components of the solution are indicated in the instructions for a particular composition.
2. 2. We moisten the surface that is planned to be protected from moisture.
3. 3. We impose a diluted composition on all existing joints, seams and corners, and then on flat areas of the base.
4. 4. We wait 2-3 hours, re-apply the solution.
5. 5. For 2–4 days after the completed treatment, we slightly moisten the insulated structures so that the protective solution hardens evenly in all its areas.

A variety of penetrating compounds for protection against moisture is injection insulation. It has the consistency of a flowing gel, which includes polyurethane, acrylate, microcement or epoxy mastic. Such a composition is introduced into holes prepared in advance. The procedure is performed with a special tool and using a rather complex technology. For this reason, injection insulation, despite its obvious advantages (the possibility of processing hard-to-reach areas, low gel consumption, no need for base preparation), is not used by self-taught masters.

Membrane waterproofing is an improved version of rolled protection with higher durability and efficiency of application. Membranes can be applied to any surface. Such products are able to attach tightly even to wet walls. Visually, the membrane for internal moisture protection looks like a canvas on which there are cone-shaped spikes. Their task is to divert water.

Membrane sheets are fixed on the walls of the cellar with dowels. Moreover, these hardware should be mounted only on top of the insulator. And all its remaining ends are subsequently fixed by elements of a horizontal moisture protection system, without which the membranes cannot be installed. This fact is considered one of the shortcomings of the described moisture protectors.

Glass and rubber in liquid form - water will not penetrate the basement!

Liquid glass is a mixture of soda, sand and sodium silicate in powder form. Before use, it is dissolved with water in certain proportions (the specific amount of liquid added is specified by the manufacturer). The technology of using liquid glass is elementary - we clean the bases that need to be protected from moisture, cover all gaps, joints, corners and other areas with a diluted composition. We wait a couple of hours and enjoy the high-quality waterproofing.

Liquid glass is allowed to process only concrete surfaces! Constructions made of other materials are not compatible with this hydraulic protector.

We add that liquid glass has a unique maintainability (if necessary, you can dismantle part of the waterproofing and mount a new protection in its place) and excellent anti-corrosion characteristics. The only bad moment. The liquid composition after dilution sets quickly enough and becomes unsuitable for use. Therefore, it should be mixed in small portions. And use them right away.

Liquid rubber is made from a variety of polymer elements and bitumen. It guarantees a high-quality moisture barrier both inside the basement and outside. Rubber waterproofing coatings have the following advantages:

• complete absence of decay;
• uniquely high adhesion to the base;
• durability;
• affordable cost;
• resistance to water pressure, ultraviolet radiation and temperature extremes;
• maintainability;
• fire safety.

Processing basements with liquid rubber is easy to do yourself. We remove fungi, dirt, dust from the surfaces. We level the bases that we want to process (the operation is optional, but it will reduce the consumption of insulating material), we apply a primer to them. There is a nuance here. First you need to treat the existing gaps and corners with soil. Then cover the surface with a fabric cloth (sold in construction stores). And after that, apply the primer again, covering the entire base with it.

After 4 hours, we can proceed to the waterproofing of the underground with liquid rubber. On the walls of the basement, it is distributed with a roller. You can rent a special installation for spraying liquid rubber. Then the work will go much faster. If you are protecting an ordinary cellar in a private house from water, there is, of course, no real need to use this installation. The time for complete solidification of liquid rubber is several hours. As a result, a special film is formed on the treated surfaces, through which not a single drop of water can penetrate. The protective coating can be finished with almost all known decorative materials.

Expert advice - we will make waterproofing without mistakes!

From a review of materials for protecting basements from groundwater, it can be seen that home craftsmen cannot have any particular difficulties in performing insulation. The technologies for using waterproofers are simple and straightforward. But if you want to do everything as correctly as possible, pay attention to the recommendations below. First of all, we need to take care of the high-quality cleaning of surfaces that will be protected from moisture, and the preparation of the cellar for the planned events:

1. 1. We examine the basement. We will find the areas where water penetrates into it, remember them, so that later we can pay special attention to problem areas.
2. 2. We pump out water from the underground, if any. Some insulating materials may be used in wet conditions. But none of them fit into the water.
3. 3. We remove falling parts from the bases, remove dirt, get rid of dust. Shtrobim found gaps. Their expansion will allow us to make waterproofing more efficiently. We prime and fill the grooved areas with plaster or concrete mortar.
4. 4. We process the surfaces with soil. And we go through problem areas twice. Bituminous mastics and penetrating insulation can be mounted on poorly dried walls. All other materials require completely dry surfaces.
5. 5. In new houses, before starting waterproofing work from the inside, it is advisable to strengthen the walls of the basement with geotextile or reinforcing fabric. These products will securely hold the protective material when the newly erected building begins to sag. These products are also mounted in cases where the insulation is performed in two layers. In such situations, reinforcing materials are placed between the layers of waterproofing materials used.

It is necessary to pour a layer of crushed stone on the earthen floor in the basement, tamp it down and cover it with cement mortar. After drying, it is allowed to proceed with the insulation of the floor base. Do not lay protective products directly on the ground. There will be no sense from them.

And the last. Any measures aimed at protecting the basement from water will be incomplete if you do not equip it with an efficiently functioning ventilation system. It can be artificial or natural. The first is constructed using dehumidifiers and fans mounted around the perimeter of the cellar. The second is the simplest exhaust structure that circulates air around the basement.

Artificial private housing construction is rarely equipped. In most cases, there is no need for it. And any self-taught master will make a natural one in a couple of hours. You just need to make a lock hole in the ceiling of the cellar and connect it to a pipe mounted outside the building. Such a simple structure will work in conjunction with hydroprotection. Don't forget to cover the outer pipe with a cap to keep raindrops out of the basement.