Installation of entrance doors of the house. Install an entrance metal door with your own hands: step by step instructions

How to mount correctly

As a rule, the front door can be installed by specialists from the company in which it was ordered, and few people risk doing it on their own. After all, in this case, the guarantee will be canceled automatically. But knowing how to properly install the structure is necessary in order to be able to control the work of the installers. This is what will be discussed in this article.

To protect your home from hacking, you need to make the entrance to it as reliable as possible. So far, nothing better has been invented than metal products, which are sometimes supplied with several locks, surveillance systems and alarms.

They are made of high quality material, which is very difficult to deform. But all these measures can be in vain if you do not follow the installation rules. After all, attackers may not touch the door itself, but simply pull it out of the opening. To prevent this from happening, be sure to follow how the installation is being carried out.

What is the attraction of a metal door:

• The main advantage is safety in comparison with other materials. In addition to durable material, the safety of residents is protected by reliable locks and other means of protection.
• Availability of any finishing materials.
• The price range is quite wide., and will satisfy different categories of buyers.
• Long life.
• Excellent sound and heat insulation performance(cm. ).

Before installing a metal door, you should consult with friends. Perhaps one of them has already installed the door and will tell you a good seller or manufacturer. Ask the seller to show you the documents that indicate the characteristics of the doors.

Be sure to inspect the proposed purchase for the presence of such points:

• The door must have a metal thickness of at least 2mm.
• The door in the closed state should have small gaps closed by a seal (see) on the hinge side. If there are no gaps, then problems with closing cannot be avoided in the future.
• The lock must be equipped with locking pins on four sides of the leaf. Such a device will not allow you to cut the hinges and squeeze the door.
• Find out about the anti-corrosion capabilities of the product.

Important! It happens that inexpensive models are equipped not with steel, but with plastic pins. It is unacceptable!

What tools will be needed

Dismantling and installation of metal doors will require the use of a set of tools:

• small crowbar or crowbar;
• perforator;
• Bulgarian;
• level;
• plumb;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• wooden wedges;
• anchor fastenings;
• mounting foam.

Getting rid of the old structure

The main preparatory stage when installing the front door with your own hands is the removal of the old one. We dismantle the old door.

The dismantling of the replaced front door can be divided into the following stages:

• The first thing you need to do is separate the old front door from the frame. If the old structure was fastened with collapsible hinges, then you should open the door clearly 90 degrees. After that, start lifting the old door up with an ordinary crowbar, do this until your design jumps off the hinges. In the event that the product is mounted on one-piece hinges (see), simply unscrew it with a regular screwdriver.
• Next, start dismantling the base. In order to dismantle the box, remove all nails and anchors from it. After that, cut the side racks in the middle of the timber. Sawn racks are dismantled with a conventional crowbar.
• After you have completed the above steps, it will not be difficult for you to get rid of the top and bottom of the door. It will be much more difficult for those people whose door frame is made of metal. Perhaps, in order to dismantle such a box, you will have to cut it out with a grinder.

After you dismantle the old front door, get rid of the falling off plaster and pieces of mortar. This can be done with a regular hammer. Do not forget to carefully remove old nails and sound and heat insulation residues (see).

Opening preparation

If there is an old door in the opening, it should be carefully dismantled. You can do it yourself, without waiting for the installers.

So:

1. If it hangs on collapsible hinges, just open it wide, substitute a crowbar or other lever under the lower end and lift the door leaf so that it jumps off the hinges.

If the hinges are one-piece, then unscrew the screws that hold the door in the box with a screwdriver or a simple screwdriver.

1. An empty box will be easy to dismantle if it is wooden. To do this, unscrew all visible fasteners from it - anchors or self-tapping screws, pull out the nails. If the box is firmly in the opening, then cut the side racks in the middle and tear them off with a crowbar. After that, the upper and lower parts of the strapping are dismantled without problems.
2. For dismantling a metal box fixed in the opening by welding, a grinder may be required. It cuts off all the fasteners that cannot be pulled out manually.

1. After dismantling the old one, clean the opening from the mounting foam, heat and sound insulation and everything that can interfere with the installation of a new one.

Preliminary measurements

Before installing the front door, we make markings. For the convenience of users, the door should be two meters high and 90 cm wide (see). Accordingly, the opening should be slightly higher and wider, taking into account the elements of the box and gaps.

The level of the structural floor plus is taken as zero:

• thermal insulation - about ten cm;
• screed - about five cm;
• finishing layer of the floor - two to three cm;
• the upper beam of the door frame - five to six cm.

As a result of adding all the values, we get the desired height at which the jumper will be (approximately 2.24 meters). It is better to take with a margin of a couple of cm.

Methods for fixing the door frame

The metal box can be attached to the opening in different ways:

• Through the holes in the box profile
• Using mounting plates

Fastening through holes in the frame profile

The installation rules allow the box to be fixed in the first way only if the thickness of the opening is more than 15 centimeters. Otherwise, the product can be easily pulled out of the wall along with the box. In addition, when attaching the box through the mounting holes made in it, the front door has to be recessed inside the opening.

The fact is that if you install the box flush with the outer wall, then the mounting holes will be at a distance of only 4-5 cm from the surface, and the fastening will be very unreliable. And if the wall is a monolithic concrete panel, then there is a risk when drilling holes for fasteners to stumble upon metal reinforcement, which is located at approximately the same depth.

Usually, the holes are provided by the manufacturers immediately, and the front door comes with special long anchor bolts for fastening and decorative plugs in the color of the box.

If there are no such holes, they must be drilled at a distance of about 30 cm. Subsequently, trimmings of reinforcement or steel bars at least 15 cm long and 12-15 mm thick are hammered into them, which are welded to the profile from the inside.

For reference. If for some reason the use of welding is not possible, after installing the box, the metal rods can be riveted with blows from a sledgehammer or a heavy hammer. In this case, you must act carefully so as not to damage the box.

With this method of fastening, technological gaps 10-15 mm wide should remain on each side of the racks of the box.

Fastening using mounting plates

The second method of fastening is more common and reliable. If you know how to install the structure correctly, you will look for doors whose frame is equipped with mounting plates with ready-made mounting holes.

There should be at least three of them on each rack. These plates allow you to install the door in the same plane as the outer wall, since they face the inside of the apartment and are attached to the opening at a sufficient distance from its surface.

Such boxes are attached to the walls in the same way as in the first case - with anchor bolts or steel bars, followed by welding. But the dimensions of technological gaps increase to 15-20 mm.

Advice. For an even more secure fixing, you can combine both methods using both the mounting plates and the holes in the box.

Front door installation

As in the case of interior doors (see), first a box is mounted in the opening.

Of course, the correct installation of the entrance doors implies their careful vertical and horizontal alignment, so the box must first be fixed in the opening with wooden wedges in order to be able to adjust its position.

The next steps are:

1. First of all, the rack with door hinges is aligned in two planes, for which a long level or plumb line is used.

1. When this is done, in the opening through the mounting holes are drilled perforator channels to the depth of the length of the anchors or pins.
2. After re-checking the level, the hinge post of the box is fixed to the wall by the methods described above: by screwing in anchors or driving in metal pins.
3. The next step is hanging the canvas on pre-lubricated loops. All fittings should already be installed on the door -, , peephole.
4. Proper installation of front doors requires alignment and a second frame post. To do this, close the door and, moving the rack, make sure that the gap between them is equal along the entire length and is 2-3 mm. After that, you can fix the feigned rack in the opening, making sure that the door fits easily into the box, and the lock snaps into place without effort.
5. Upon completion of the installation, the doors must be sealed with cement mortar or the gaps should be filled with mounting foam, after pasting the box with masking tape so as not to stain it.
6. When the foam or mortar is completely dry, you can start plastering the slopes or lining them with decorative finishing materials.
7. From the outside, the front door is decorated with platbands.

European way of fastening doors

If you are seriously wondering how to properly install entrance doors, then pay attention to the so-called European method of fastening. For it, external boxes of a special profile are made, which tightly cover the opening on both sides. They are made to order, given the width of the doorway.

The free space formed between the box and the wall is filled with cement mortar, which contains special polymer additives that increase strength. After it hardens, the wall with the box forms an almost indestructible monolithic structure.

Let's start leveling

How to put the door to the apartment: remove the remnants of the foam.

It is divided into the following steps:

• check the verticality of the rack;
• drill with a puncher in the wall through special mounting lugs, small holes, the diameter of which should be 15 millimeters, and the depth 100-120;
• hammer pins into holes and fix the anchor bolts;
• check the verticality of the rack again using the building level;

Now you can start hanging the door. To do this, pre-lubricate the hinges. The front door is practically installed with your own hands.

After all the procedures described above, install the door hardware (see). Now try to align the side post so that the gap between it and the door does not exceed 2-4 millimeters over the entire height. After that, fix the rack and repeat the operation with the second one. If everything is done correctly, you can start welding the rods or tightening them.

Now use foam to close the gap between the door frame and the wall. In order not to stain the canvas and the box, cover them with molar tape. Usually, one bottle of polyurethane foam is enough to handle the door, but you can also play it safe.

After about a day, the mounting foam will dry completely. Carefully cut off the remaining foam with a knife. After that, treat the space between the door and the door frame with ordinary plaster or other suitable material. Door installation completed.

Congratulations, you now know how to install your front door. Most importantly, remember that when installing the front door, you must be careful and accurate. If you follow everything exactly as indicated in our instructions, you will be able to install the front door yourself with high quality and reliability. After installation, you can choose trims suitable for your interior, just experiment with fittings, or leave everything in the basic configuration.

Metal front doors are far from new today. They continue to replace the old, Soviet wooden canvases in the apartment. Due to the strength of the structure, fasteners and fittings, a steel door will reliably protect your home from intruders. Its installation costs the lion's share of the funds (a quarter of the cost of the structure itself), and you can save on it. With knowledge of the installation features, the availability of tools and assistants, you can correctly install the front metal door yourself.

The advantage of steel doors

In addition to the aforementioned security, metal entrance doors have the following advantages:

• Design. Both outside and inside, the door can be ennobled: for example, outside with PVC film, inside - with laminate, MDF panel and other materials. A variety of models will allow you to choose and put the option for the interior.

• Price. Options for every wallet. You can save money by doing the installation yourself.
• Durability. Metal resists fungal formations, mold. The only problem is corrosion. But even here there is a solution - even if the canvas has not been treated, you can cover it with an anti-corrosion agent yourself.
• Sound-proof and heat-insulating materials are placed in the canvas. The main thing when installing slopes is also to take this moment into account - for example, fill the gaps with mineral wool.
• Possibility to install multi-level locking mechanisms.

In addition, do not forget about the hinges, correctly selected and installed, they will create an extra obstacle for intruders to enter the house.

How to be sure of the reliability of the design

In order not to get a "pig in a poke" here are some important tips:

• Consult with friends and relatives, maybe someone recently did the installation of entrance doors. They will point out what you should pay attention to, where there may be errors.

Door closer installation>
• Ask the seller, installer for documents and a warranty card for the design.
• Take a close look at the door. The canvas should be no thinner than 2mm, in the closed position there should be gaps with a sealant near the hinges (or after a while there will be a problem to close the door).
• Specify the quality of the anti-corrosion coating.
• Threshold - most often corroded. Conscientious manufacturers make this part of stainless steel.
• Installation of entrance doors must be carried out strictly according to the level.

If there is an opportunity and desire, then you can install the structure yourself, having personally controlled all the stages of installation.

Mounting methods

Entrance doors can be of two types:

• With the help of mounting plates - the method is often used to install the front door to an apartment. Metal plates (4 pieces) are welded to the door frame on the sides. They have bolt holes. Place the racks of the box in the opening, align with the walls. There should be a gap of 10-20 mm on each side to align the studs with wedges. Bolts, rods are hammered with a sledgehammer, welded.

• In-wall installation - used in walls whose thickness is more than 20 cm. Suitable for a private house. Here the holes are not in the plates, but in the door frame. It is installed in the opening and bolts are hammered into the holes with a sledgehammer, closed with plugs. Gap for alignment - 1 cm around the perimeter.

Required Tool

To independently carry out the installation of the front door correctly you will need:

• Bulgarian.
• Perforator.
• Level.
• Hammer.
• Roulette.
• Wedges are wooden.
• Anchor bolts.
• Foam for mounting.

Opening preparation

Before you install the metal door yourself and do it correctly, you need to prepare the doorway. Sequencing:

• Dismantle the old door leaf and hinges.
• Cut the door frame in the center with a grinder.

• Break the blocks of the box with a crowbar.
• Perforator will remove the remnants of mortar, plaster.
• Inspect the threshold - it should be level with the floor. If there is an old beam and masonry, it must be replaced.

Clear the opening safely - the main thing is not to damage the wall.

Step by step installation

The opening should be slightly larger than the door frame. If it is smaller, you need to increase it with a grinder. If more - narrow, applying a cement solution to the opening.

When the opening is formed, do-it-yourself installation of a metal door is performed:

• Install wooden wedges around the perimeter.
• Installation of the first rack with hinges in the opening.
• We measure the position with a level - it should be vertical.
• The rack has mounting holes. Through them, drill a connector in the wall 1.5-2 cm deep for anchor bolts. Install the bolts, check the location with a level.
• The caps of the bolts will be correctly closed with plugs.
• Grease the hinges.
• Canvas installation.

• Installation of fittings: locks, handles.
• Close the door, measure the gap (no more than 2-4 mm).
• Installation of the second rack on anchor bolts.
• Door check.
• Fill the void between the posts with foam.

How to install a double metal front door

Installation of double entrance doors is a time-consuming process. Such designs are made to order. To control the installation, it is important to know what stages it consists of:

• Dismantle old double doors (cloths and frames) with a crowbar and a grinder. Clear the opening from the remnants of the cement mortar.
• Installation of a metal box. Its profile has special holes for bolts (or attaching special plates with holes).
• Level alignment.

Improper installation under the level threatens to break the lock.

• Fastening the box with bolts (1.2-1.5 cm diameter).
• There should be a gap of 1.5-2 cm between the box and the opening after fastening.
• Installation of the first sash with locking mechanism and handle.
• Installation of the second sash, installation of crossbars.
• Filling the gap between the opening and the box with mounting foam.

For reliability, double doors are equipped with additional crossbars on the hinge side, and enter into the reciprocal holes in the frame. The main function is to increase the doorway.

Purchase and installation errors

Sometimes, the result of installing the front door may not meet expectations due to such errors and unverified points:

• Design features. If the wall is very thin and the canvas is heavy, then it must be strengthened before installing the box. To find out if this procedure is necessary, a specialist of the company that will install the structure can help: during measurements, he must evaluate the strength of the walls, correlate it with the weight of the selected canvas.

More about installing an entrance metal door with your own hands, watch the video:

• If the repair in the room is major, it is necessary to report on subsequent repair work with the floor: screed level, coating.
• Ask what type of lock is used, how reliable it is.
• The most common installation problem is a crooked box. The solution is careful use of a level (preferably laser).
• Poor cleaning of the opening - the unevenness of the surface can interfere during installation.
• Entrance doors after installation should be easy to close even with a seal.
• The bolts of the lock should not rub against the box.
• The gap between the box and the opening is normal, provided that this is the necessary technological gap of 3-4 mm.
• Check the functionality of the locks.
• Check the viewing angle of the peephole.

One of the important points when buying the door itself is to carefully read the terms of the guarantee. Some manufacturers disclaim responsibility for possible defects in the operation of doors if it was not installed by their specialists. And in any case, we must not forget to pick up and keep the warranty card.

The threshold of a private house regularly comes into contact with moisture from shoes in which they just walked through puddles or snow. Doors at the entrance are exposed to sunlight, temperature changes and strong winds. So that these negative factors do not spoil the product and do not reduce the temperature inside the living space, it is important to properly install the entrance doors in a private house, which is carried out taking into account the negative impacts and using the right materials.

Preparation of the opening for the installation of doors to the house

It is better to replace a street door in a private house during a dry, warm time, because unforeseen difficulties and lack of experience can stretch the process for half a day or more, as a result of which the living rooms will cool down if it is cold outside. It all starts with the dismantling of the old structure, during which the canvas is removed from the hinges, and the fastening of the door frame is cut off with a grinder and a thin abrasive disc. Having peeled off the frame from the wall with a pry bar, the structure is removed.

On the threshold there is often a wooden beam on which the box was installed. It must be checked for integrity by trying to pierce it in several places with an awl. If a thick needle enters with difficulty, then the tree can be covered with paint and left. This will protect the material from moisture penetrating under the transition. In a rotten state, the bar is removed and a similar one is laid in its place. If the threshold is made of brick, then you need to beat off traces of mortar from the surface and the outside so that nothing prevents you from leveling the door frame. To protect from the sun, it is better to equip the porch with a visor, which will also save from precipitation.

It will be easy to install an entrance door to a private house if the dimensions of the box are 20-50 mm smaller in width and height than the dimensions of the opening. This must be taken into account at the stage of taking measurements and choosing a product. If the box fits snugly into the opening, then with uneven floors or walls, position adjustment will become impossible, so part of the wall will have to be cut off. In a private house, it is required to bring lighting or a socket out to the street to connect a watering pump and other needs. One of the ways is under the door frame, therefore, when preparing the opening for these purposes, mortgages are placed in the form of a plastic pipe.

Proper installation of a street door in a private house

In order for the entrance to be well insulated from freezing, it is necessary to correctly design the junction of the box and the wall. The installation of a street door in a private house is carried out with the canvas removed initially, so that it does not warp the structure and does not create an unnecessary load on the hands. The box is filled from the inside with foam glued on liquid nails, or with mineral wool held by expansion. This will prevent the formation of condensation and drips in the hallway.

The box must be pasted over with masking tape so that working with a tool or foaming the mounting gap at the end does not spoil the powder coating. Further, the installation of a metal door in a private house with your own hands is possible with an assistant, due to the mass of the product 60-100 kg, and is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The door frame is inserted into the opening until the trim is completely attached.
2. Plastic wedges are installed under it, sold in hardware stores for this purpose. In the absence of plastic devices, home-made wooden ones are used. The goal is to spread the structure on the sides.
3. The bubble level checks the threshold relative to the horizontal and the rack to align the vertical. To raise the corner of the box or change the slope inside the opening, adjust the thickness of the wedge.
4. Upon reaching a level position, the drill is marked, which can be done by attaching an anchor to it and marking the end with masking tape. You need to start drilling from the top on the loop side.
5. The anchor is inserted into the hole and knocked out through a screwdriver. It needs to be tightened in order for the rigidity of the fixation to appear. After that, a second similar mount is mounted.
6. Now you can hang the canvas on the hinges and make sure that there are no distortions under load. When everything is in order, the rest of the anchor is placed.
7. When sealing a mounting gap, it is better to use foam with a low coefficient of expansion, which will not create excessive pressure on the metal, but will insulate the gaps well.

The Reliable Doors company offers to install an iron door in a private house in compliance with all applicable building codes, which will ensure high insulation of the entrance from freezing and noise. We have extensive experience in installing doors in openings of various thicknesses and will ensure the correct location, which contributes to long-term operation.

Particularly resistant and durable, indestructible steel doors are steadily replacing their wooden and chipboard counterparts from all areas of the modern construction industry. Massive and strong, metal doors reliably protect housing from unauthorized intrusions, and therefore our compatriots willingly put them in their city apartments and private country houses, and often, in order to save money, they prefer to do it with their own hands. In fact, self-installation of an entrance steel door is not a problem for a person who sufficiently possesses the necessary building skills, but for inexperienced beginners, the step-by-step instructions in our article will help to properly cope with this work, performing particularly complex actions can be mastered with the help of video.

How to install an entrance steel door: instructions

All work on the installation of an entrance steel door is divided into 3 standard basic stages:

• preparatory operations, including the selection of tools, the dismantling of the old door and the preparation of the doorway;
• installation work - installation and fastening of the door frame, hanging the door;
• finishing procedures, which include checking and debugging the operation of locks, adjusting the course of the door leaf, closing technological gaps.

Advice! The metal door block is bulky and very heavy, so you will definitely need a dexterous muscular assistant to install it.

Stage 1 - preparation

Step 1. Selection of materials and tools.

For work you will need:

• hammer drill or powerful impact drill equipped with drill and chisel attachments;
• angle grinder (grinder);
• plumb and building level;
• sledgehammer and hammer;
• tape measure and marking pencil;
• medium-sized crowbar or large nail puller;
• an ax, a hacksaw for wood and a piece of board;
• several cylinders of mounting foam or high-grade cement mortar.

Step 2. Dismantling the old door.

1. Remove the old door leaf from the hinges. If this cannot be done for some reason, unscrew the screws that fasten the hinges to the hatch and remove the door along with the awnings.

2. In several places, cut the bars of the old door frame with a grinder or a hacksaw, pry the side racks with a crowbar and, carefully, so as not to damage the wall, tear them off the brick or concrete base.

3. Remove the top beam and threshold in the same way.

Step 3. Opening preparation.

1. After the box is removed from the doorway, pull the remaining nails from the walls with a nail puller or tongs.

2. Remove pieces of thermal insulation material (if it was laid between the pit and the wall).

3. Carefully beat the plaster down to the base of the walls (if there are wooden chops in them, pull them out and seal the holes with mortar).

4. Try on the door block to the prepared opening.

Important! In the event that the initial measurements were made correctly, the door frame made in accordance with them should freely enter the opening so that technological gaps of 20-25 mm remain on each side between its beams and walls.

If the block entered the opening properly, you will not need to follow the next paragraph of the instruction.

5. When an employee of the manufacturer made a mistake with the calculations, and the box turned out to be too large or small for your doorway, you will have to work harder and expand or reduce it accordingly.

6. To increase the size of the opening, beat the excess wall with a perforator, to reduce it, increase the missing volume with high-quality concrete mortar.

Stage 2 - installation work

Step 1 Mounting the box.

1. Together with an assistant, insert a new metal frame (without a door leaf) into the prepared opening. To prevent the block from falling out of the hole in the wall, first fix it with wooden wedges. Cut the wedges in advance and insert them with a little effort at 20 cm intervals around the entire perimeter of the box.

2. Level and plumb, in all available planes, as carefully as possible, check the verticality of the loot. If a discrepancy is found, loosen or drive the wedges deeper, thereby shifting the box in the right direction.

3. When the desired result is achieved, fix all the wedges as rigidly as possible so that the loot does not move during the drilling of mounting holes in the walls, and once again make sure that it is vertical.

Important! If the manufacturer did not make holes for the bolts in the frame of your new door to save money, drill them yourself before you start installing the frame. The standard number of holes is 3 pcs. on vertical racks and 2 on horizontal racks.

4. Through the mounting holes in the hinge jamb, drill holes in the walls for anchor bolts. Start drilling from the top of the jamb, for drilling use a suitable length and diameter drill bit.

If your inexpensive door does not include mounting hardware, purchase 150 mm anchor bolts with a diameter of 12-15 mm yourself.
Insert the anchors into the prepared nests and tighten them.

Step 2. Hanging the door.

5. After lubricating the hinges, temporarily hang the door on the jamb. Check the course of the canvas - it should not mow and close spontaneously. If the door moves gently, turns in hinges without applying significant effort, then the box is set correctly and it can be fixed further.

6. To do this, remove the door from the canopies, drill holes in the opposite wall in the same way and fix the rack with the striker in it, then fix the threshold and at the end - the lintel.

7. Close the anchor heads with decorative caps and finally hang the door leaf.

Stage 3 - finishing

Step 1. Adjusting the locks, checking and adjusting the door travel.

1. Install all supplied hardware on the door.

2. Open the door to 45, and then to 90 * - in such positions, it should not spontaneously move from its place.

3. Latch the door and check if there is any play in this state.

4. Check the gaps between the uprights and the door leaf - according to the rules, they should not exceed 4 mm.

5. Check the softness of the lock mechanisms, eliminate possible problems by moving the counter plates located on the locking column of the box.

Step 2. Closing technological gaps.

1. Paste the door frame with masking tape, pull the door leaf with a protective film.

After installing the door, the threshold and walls are closed with decorative platbands

Doors made of metal - a symbol of reliability and safety of property. But no matter how good the door is, if the installation is done incorrectly, intruders can easily overcome this obstacle. And hacking is not the worst. It often happens that the tenants themselves cannot get inside the apartment due to the fact that the door does not open: the lock fails, the door leaf does not open, etc. Upon closer examination, it turns out that the main reason is hidden in errors during the installation of the door , violation of the rules for installing the door unit.

Rules for installing an entrance metal door to an apartment

Gone are the days when, to install a metal door, it was enough to invite a familiar welder and build an iron structure in a free style at the entrance to the apartment. Since the fashion for iron doors has taken root among the urban population, standards and rules have been developed and approved, the violation of which is punishable by law.

The metal door installed in the apartment must comply with regulatory documents

On the territory of the Russian Federation, there are several regulatory documents that regulate the procedure for the manufacture and installation of metal doors in residential buildings.

• GOST 31173–2003 regulates the technical conditions for the installation and operation of door steel blocks;
• PPB (fire safety rules) describe the procedure for installing a metal door in residential and commercial buildings;
• SNiP 21.01.97 and SP 1.13130.2009 determine the dimensions of the door block, the direction of opening of the door leaf, the height of the threshold and other technical indicators.

It must also be borne in mind that the arrangement and transfer of a doorway in multi-apartment buildings that do not correspond to the original project are equated with redevelopment, which must be coordinated with architectural services without fail.

Doors can have standard dimensions or be made according to a special project. There are the following standard sizes of metal door blocks (height x width according to the leaf size):

The size of the door frame, in accordance with GOST and the intended purpose of the product, is tied to the dimensions of the door leaf.

Installation should be carried out by a specialized organization, it is better to give preference to a team of assemblers from the manufacturer of metal doors. Installation work is allowed for personnel who have completed a training course and are equipped with the necessary tools and materials.

The main requirements, according to the documents, are the use of reliable fastening material. So, anchor dowels and threaded connections with a diameter of at least 10 mm are used. The distance between them should not exceed 0.7 m. Anchor plates and steel pins are used as additional fasteners. The gaps are filled with materials that have a low shrinkage coefficient and high thermal insulation properties:

• sealing compression (pre-compressed) PSUL tapes;
• mineral or basalt wool;
• silicone or acrylic sealant;
• mounting foam;
• polyurethane cords.

Painting and impregnation of joints with primers or other binders is not recommended.

The rules require the door to have a vertical orientation in all planes, regardless of the position of the mating walls.

If after installation it seems to you that the door is not quite level, you need to check not only the position of the door block, but also the walls. It often happens that the walls are not aligned in height, and this gives the impression of a "littered" door frame. The door works properly only in a strictly vertical state, so the installers cannot change its position for the sake of visual perception.

In residential areas, the minimum allowable size of a steel door is 1.9 m high and 0.8 m wide. In commercial buildings, a minimum width of 1.2 m is set, due to the increased flow of people (with the likelihood of evacuation in an extreme situation).

In administrative and commercial buildings, the front door must have a width of at least 1.2 m, based on a large flow of people during evacuation

The mounting gaps between the door frame and the leaf, established by SNiP, are 25–40 mm. The distance between the border of the doorway and the metal frame should be from 2 to 3 cm, while at the end of the assembly they are carefully filled with cement mortar (in wooden houses, an adjusting bar is used - a cut, which is cut out taking into account the existing dimensions of the door frame).

Doors of industrial production without fail pass tests and certification. Information about the technical and operational characteristics is reflected in the passport and identifier. For example, SNiP sets the minimum level of sound insulation, which should not be lower than 20 dB. Depending on the class of the product, the parameters of water and air permeability change. The range of volumetric air permeability at 100 Pa is from 9 to 27 h/m, the limit of water tightness can vary from 200 to 600 h/m.

An important point in coordinating the installation of steel doors is compliance with fire safety rules. There are mandatory conditions that must be considered during installation.

1. The door opens outward, in the direction of the escape route.
2. The open sash does not interfere with access to adjacent rooms.
3. The width of the door clearance is at least 0.8 m.
4. The door does not block the opening of adjacent doors.
5. Between the wall and the door there is a free space of at least 1 m.

Upon completion of the installation work, a standard document is drawn up - an acceptance certificate, which confirms the installation in full and stipulates warranty obligations.

What you need to install an entrance metal door

The main instruction that should be relied upon during the assembly of a metal door is the technical passport. It gives the installation diagram and the specification of the attachment points. There are a great many types and models of steel doors, each has its own design and installation features. Since the main purpose of the iron door block is protection against breaking and entering, manufacturers are constantly improving the internal structure of the locking mechanism, supplementing it with the latest developments and technologies.

Nevertheless, there is an established procedure for installing doors. For a successful installation, you need to prepare the following tools:

In addition, for the installation of slopes, you will need a dry concrete mix, a container for mixing the mortar (bucket or trough), a trowel and spatulas. Rubber seals are usually included in the delivery. But polyurethane mounting foam must be purchased independently. The bucket is also useful for cleaning up debris that is formed during the preparation of the wall opening for the installation of doors.

To work with professional polyurethane foam, you need a special gun

In the event that the door is installed in a wooden frame, instead of a puncher, you need a chain saw and a set of chisels.

How to install an entrance metal door

Self-installation of the door block is justified from the point of view of economy. But if gross errors are made at the same time, then the whole effect will be blocked by the cost of repairs, which will be required very soon. Therefore, it is necessary to soberly weigh your strengths and abilities, carefully study the installation manual, and only after that make a responsible decision.

Preparatory stage

Before installation, it is necessary to prepare the work site, level the wall opening, remove debris and deliver the door unit to the installation site. Plaster is removed from the inner surface of the doorway, the remains of mounting foam and dust are cleaned off (it is recommended to treat the walls with a primer of the Betonkontakt type).

The primer neutralizes building dust and strengthens the material of the treated surface.

Most often, doors are transported assembled, in wooden or cardboard packaging.

The weight of a high-quality metal door with a metal thickness of 1.5 mm can exceed 100 kg. Therefore, unloading, lifting and installation is carried out by a team of at least two people.

There must be no furniture or foreign objects in the installation area. The door leaf must not encounter any obstacles during opening.

Frame installation

Before installing the door frame, it is necessary to separate the canvas from it. This is achieved by detaching the hinges - removing or unscrewing, depending on the type of canopies. Further actions are performed in the following order.

1. The frame is installed in the doorway and preliminary alignment is carried out. The threshold is rigidly placed on the floor, and the vertical posts are located along the wall. Depending on the project, the frame is aligned along one of the planes of the doorway. To save internal space, apartment metal doors are usually mounted along the outer plane of the opening (outward opening). But installation is not forbidden in the middle of the wall, when the distance from the frame to the edges is approximately the same.

   The location of the door frame is selected according to the specific site conditions.

2. By means of wooden or plastic wedges, the frame is fixed in the desired position. The threshold is set strictly horizontally, according to the level of the finished floor, the side posts - in two vertical axes: in the plane of the door (along the canvas) and in a direction perpendicular to it.
3. Install anchor fasteners - without full tightening, only by surprise. Then hang the door leaf and make the final alignment of the frame. In this case, you should pay attention to the width of the gaps between the canvas and the edges of the frame. If the installation is carried out correctly, the gaps will be the same size everywhere. A sign of a quality installation is the stable position of the door leaf when opening. The door does not swing open and does not close on its own, but moves easily under the control of a human hand.
   

   If there are no mounting holes in the door frame, they are drilled independently

4. Having finally set the position of the door frame, the canvas is removed and the frame is firmly fixed. At this stage, it is important not to overtighten the threaded connections. Some installers, out of inexperience, tighten the nuts with all their might, while deforming the sidewalls, which will adversely affect the operation of the door later. In order not to be mistaken, it is necessary to measure the tightening force with changes in the verticality and straightness of the rack. Experienced craftsmen break the operation into two circles, the first time tightening the bolts at half strength, and the second - with maximum effort. We remind you once again that the diameter of the mount must be from 10 mm, the length must be at least 15 cm. The tightening sequence is as follows:
   • the middle anchors of the racks are tightened;
   • the upper and lower anchors of the sidewalls are twisted;
   • two bolts are fixed on the threshold;
   • fasteners are tightened on the upper crossbar.

The gap between the frame and the wall is filled with foam, mineral wool or other filler. Complete drying of the foam occurs after 24 hours, but installation can be continued after the surface layer has set (30-40 minutes). To improve adhesion and accelerate drying, the gap is moistened with water before pouring the foam.

Before applying the foam, the wall and frame surfaces can be moistened with water to improve adhesion.

Door leaf installation

The installation of the door leaf must be carried out together, as this is the heaviest element of the structure. If the hinges are hinged, the canvas in an open position at 90 in relation to the frame is lifted above the canopies and put on from above. If the hinges are internal, the door is attached in accordance with the diagram of their installation. For convenience, one or more boards are placed under the bottom edge of the canvas as a support.

After mounting the door frame, a metal sheet is hung on the hinges

Hardware installation

The last step before finishing is the installation of control fittings: a door lock, a handle, a peephole and a door closer. If all these elements are present in the kit, then the instruction manual will definitely contain a detailed diagram and installation instructions.

The set of factory-made doors has all the necessary fittings

Finishing

Finishing works consist of installation of platbands and slopes. Platbands hide all unsightly areas and decorate the appearance of the door. The slopes serve the same purpose, but have a different structure, since they are installed in the recess of the doorway. In addition, slopes significantly increase the strength of the entire structure if they are made of cement mortar. On the inside, ready-made plastic panels or drywall sheets are often used as slopes. This solution facilitates installation, but in the interests of strength, it is better to give preference to full-bodied slopes consisting of hardened cement with sand. To reinforce the slopes, reinforcing meshes made of metal or synthetic fiber are used.

The rest of the depth of the doorway is closed with additional elements, and platbands are installed on the front side

Features of installing an entrance metal door to an apartment

Modern multi-apartment houses are made of bricks or precast concrete blocks. There are also combined standard projects. But in any case, when installing a metal door in such houses, one has to deal with stone walls. All the information above applies to such apartments.

The only important reservation that needs to be made concerns the preparation of a doorway in panel houses. The fact is that the walls, consisting of cast reinforced concrete, are strictly forbidden to ditch, cut or split. This leads to disturbances in the distribution of the static load of the entire building as a whole and can cause unexpected consequences. For example, there were cases when, as a result of slotting block walls, floor slabs were displaced, and the building was transferred to the emergency category. Excessive vibration during work with a puncher spreads throughout the house and sometimes leads to cracking of glass on windows and other unpleasant consequences.

For these reasons, when preparing a doorway in a panel house, it is strictly forbidden to expand the dimensions of the hole in the wall. If it is not possible to choose the right size of the door for the existing opening, the only right decision will be the manufacture of a door block according to an individual project. However, if the opening is large, and the door is planned to be smaller, you can narrow the dimensions using brick or block masonry.

Reducing the size of the doorway can be done using brickwork

Video: installing an entrance metal door in an apartment

Features of installing an entrance metal door in a wooden house

A wooden house differs from a stone one in that it shrinks significantly in the first few years after construction. The wood gradually dries out and decreases in size. This leads to a reduction in the size of the building as a whole by 3–5%. Ideally, in order to install an iron door in a log house without problems, you have to wait a few years. But in our time, such a term is an excessive luxury. Therefore, an original technology was invented for plastic windows and metal doors.

Within a few years after construction, the wooden elements of the house dry out and decrease in size, as a result of which the door and window openings change their geometry.

The bottom line is that in place of the upper plank, free space is left, which will gradually be filled with drying wood. To compensate for vertical deformation, the metal frame is joined to the wooden partition of the log house through a special beam - gun carriage.

The procedure will be as follows.

After 3-4 years, when the building settles, the gaps are cleaned of tow and filled with mounting foam.

In old log cabins that have stood for 10 years or more, this problem is also present, albeit on a smaller scale. The house can be deformed under the influence of a strong temperature difference or during severe frosts. Therefore, the technology of installing metal doors on carriages is used everywhere. Plastic doors and windows are mounted in the same way.

Video: installation of a metal door in a wooden house

Features of installing an entrance metal door in aerated concrete

Blocks of foam and aerated concrete are widely used in the construction of low-rise buildings. Light weight, low cost and excellent thermal insulation properties contribute to the popularity of this material among developers. However, everyone knows the weak point of the blocks - their porous structure. A nail hammered into an aerated concrete wall is pulled out by hand without much effort. How to fix a metal door in such conditions?

The way out is quite simple and logical. If the binding to the wall is not reliable enough, then you need to strengthen the frame. In the case of foam concrete, it is customary to design a double frame for an iron door. Moreover, the distance between the outer perimeter of the frame and the inner one is equal to the thickness of the wall of foam blocks.

The double frame covers the entire aerated concrete wall and strengthens its structure.

Thus, the door frame is kept in the opening not only due to special anchors, which increase in size when the screw is screwed in, but also due to the structure covering the entire thickness of the wall.

When the screw is tightened, the lower part increases in volume and bursts the anchor inside the wall

To ennoble the internal space of such a frame, additional decorative elements are used. The rough parts of the frame - metal corners - are lined with wood or MDF panels, while the appearance of the doorway becomes quite presentable. The air space under the extensions serves as an additional obstacle to freezing and noise penetration.

Video: installing an iron door in aerated concrete

Installation of components to the entrance metal door

Not the last role in the correct operation of the door is played by fittings. The ease of use and the service life of the door depend on how the locks, handles and door closers are mounted.

Installation of locks in the iron door

The locking device is the main obstacle to forced entry. Therefore, special attention is paid to it. To install the lock, you will need the following tools:

• screwdriver;
• drill with a set of drills for metal;
• screwdriver with interchangeable heads for various slots;
• screws and self-tapping screws;
• a set of files and files;
• core, taps for threading;
• Angle grinder (grinder) with a disk for metal.

Of the variety of locks for metal doors, only three types are used.

According to the type of locking mechanism and the level of secrecy, the following lock systems are distinguished:

• disk;
• crossbar;
• level;
• electronic;
• magnetic;
• cylinder.

For self-installation, cylinder and lever locks are considered the most suitable. Magnetic and electronic locks require special equipment for debugging and alignment.

Mortise lock installation

Consider the procedure for installing a mortise lock.

1. The position and place of the castle is determined. The recommended location height is 90–140 cm from the floor.
2. The core marks the boundary of the excavation. With the help of a grinder, the inside of the hole is cut out at the end of the door leaf. The edges are processed with a file, burrs and sharp edges of the cut are removed.
3. The lock is inserted into the hole, the attachment points are marked with a marker. In the marked places (usually from two to four), holes are drilled. Threads are cut using taps. The selection of the thread pitch is carried out depending on the available screws.
4. The exit point of the keyhole and the drive of the handle are determined on both sides of the canvas. The lock is applied to the door leaf, the desired points are marked with a marker.

   Holes for fastening the lock are drilled with an electric drill

5. Holes are drilled with a margin of several millimeters, sharp edges are rounded off with a small file to avoid cuts and abrasions on the hands.
6. Installing and fixing the lock in the door. The operation of the mechanism is checked.

   After installing the lock, its mechanism is fixed with a bolt included in the delivery.

7. The mate is cut out on the frame. To do this, mark the exit point of the lock bolts and make a corresponding hole on the side pillar of the door frame.
8. After checking the operation, the lock is lubricated, and a counter plate is attached to the frame.

   The counter plate is designed to hold the locking elements inside the door frame

Video: how to properly insert a lock into a metal door

For those who intend to install the lock on their own, information on installing a padlock will be useful. The procedure is somewhat different from the previous one.

Video: installing a padlock on a metal door

How to install a closer on a metal door

When choosing a closer, they use a classification according to the width of the doors and the power of the power unit (spring or hydraulic mechanism). The right choice plays an important role in the subsequent operation of the door. There are seven types of closers:

• 75 cm - 20 kg;
• 85 cm - 40 kg;
• 95 cm - 60 kg;
• 110 cm - 80 kg;
• 125 cm - 100 kg;
• 140 cm - 120 kg;
• 160 cm - 160 kg.

The first number indicates the width of the door leaf, the second - the mass of the door leaf. In addition, closers are divided according to the fixation point of the drive (inside or outside the door).

1. Hidden design. The spring is located inside the loops.
2. Bottom fixation. It is rarely used, since the operation of such devices is difficult.
3. Top fixation is the most common type. The mechanism is in sight, easy to maintain and adjust.

Mounting the door closer is a simple matter, especially since its kit necessarily includes installation instructions. All fixing materials are included, as well as templates in 1:1 scale, with which the markup is made.

Here is a typical step-by-step instruction for installing a door closer (using the NOTEDO DC-100 as an example).

1. The template is attached to the surface of the door with adhesive tape and marking is made on it.

   The holes for the closer are drilled according to the template that is included in the delivery.

2. Holes are drilled with a drill of the desired diameter.
3. The closer is dismantled - the lever is separated into two parts.

   The closer is fastened to the door with standard self-tapping screws.

4. The power unit ("shoe") is installed on the door leaf through the prepared holes. The other part of the lever is attached to the frame.
5. The length of the lever is adjusted according to the attached instructions. When the door is closed, the closer lever should be perpendicular to the leaf.

   When closed, the closer lever should be perpendicular to the door leaf

Video: door closer installation instructions

How to install a handle on an entrance metal door

The method of mounting the handle depends primarily on its type and design. Today, the variety of products in this category of goods is simply immense. Handles are stationary and rotary. The former are reinforced with countersunk screws so that the handle cannot be twisted from the outside. To install the rotary handle, it is necessary to make a through hole through the door leaf. The sequence of actions is the following.

1. The installation point is measured. The handles are fixed at a height of 1–1.1 m from the floor and 10–15 cm from the edge of the canvas.
2. Depending on the design of the device, holes of the required diameter for fastening are marked and drilled.
3. The rotary handle mechanism is installed, the outer and inner levers are connected.
4. Before installing decorative overlays, the operation of the handle is fully checked, moving parts are lubricated.
5. Installation is completed by tightening the fixing screws on the inside of the door.

The sequence of mounting the rotary handle of a metal door is described in detail in the instructions for its installation.

As can be seen from the above instructions, simple metalwork tools and an electric drill with a set of drills are required to install the handles. Additionally, you will need screwdrivers for screws with different slots (flat and cross-shaped). Each door handle model comes with a detailed description and installation diagram. Before starting installation, it is advisable to study them carefully.

How to close the slopes after installing a metal door

The appearance of the opening after installing the front door can hardly be called attractive. To hide the traces of installation work, facing works are carried out on the inside and outside.

Decorative slopes hide unsightly sections of the wall after installation work is completed.

Where it is impossible (or insufficient) to install platbands, slopes are mounted.

Slopes can be made from the following materials:

• plastic panels;
• drywall;
• layer of plaster;
• decorative stone or tile.

According to the author, who has extensive experience in construction, no matter how comfortably and quickly slopes are built from various types of panels, preference should still be given to traditional methods of finishing. Cement mortar plaster not only looks great and does not require maintenance, but also solves the main task assigned to the front door - it increases reliability and prevents burglary. You can talk about panels if their location is inside the apartment. If the slopes are made from the outside, they must first of all be strong and non-separable.

To make slopes from cement mortar, it is necessary to purchase a ready-made dry sand-concrete mixture. All information about the method of preparing the solution is contained on the package. The time and sequence of preparation of the mixture are detailed on the bag.

If the apartment is located in a damp entrance, table salt is added to the solution during mixing (at the rate of 1 kg of salt per 10 liters of solution). This will make the composition resistant to moisture.

The order of work will be as follows.

1. Beacons are installed along the perimeter of the door. You can use finished products or adapt wooden slats for this. The convenience of metal beacons is that after the plaster has hardened, they can be left inside the slope.

   Beacons and corners are fastened with a quick-hardening solution of alabaster

2. Paint corners are attached to nails, staples or mortar of alabaster along the outer perimeter. The fixation must be reliable, since a rule or spatula will be pulled along the corner.
3. The cement mortar is kneaded until a thick consistency is reached. The mixture must be thoroughly mixed with an electric mixer so that there are no dry lumps in it.
4. The surface of the wall is treated with a primer. It is preferable to use deep penetration compounds, this will further increase adhesion.
5. After the primer dries, with the help of a trowel, a solution is thrown onto the walls, gradually filling the space between the beacons. When the solution becomes sufficient, the excess is pulled along the beacons with a spatula or a short rule.

   The layer of plaster is covered with a fine-dispersed putty

6. The operation can be divided into several stages. This is allowed when the internal volume of slopes is large. If the break in time lasted more than a day, before applying a new layer, the previous one is abundantly wetted with water. First, the side planes are filled, and the upper part is plastered last.
7. After the plaster has dried, a thin layer of putty is applied on top, which eliminates minor defects and levels the surface of the slopes to an ideal shape.
8. The last step is painting or tiling. Any type of ceramic tile, natural stone or tile fits perfectly on a leveled slope.

   After plastering, the slopes can be tiled

To further increase the strength of the slopes, fiber reinforcement is added to the solution, which is a long thread of durable synthetic material. It is placed in the finished batch when the mixer is no longer used.

Video: do-it-yourself door slopes

How to fix dobors on the entrance metal door

A very practical way of facing the inner surface of the doorway after installing the doors is the method of decorating with the help of extensions. Decorative panels can have any color and texture, so this finish can harmoniously fit into any interior. There are various types of extensions created from natural and synthetic materials:

• metal;
• tree.

Products from MDF are most widely used, since their price is low, and the range is huge. On sale there are extras for all occasions. But having at your disposal ordinary planed boards in the required quantity, you can make extensions yourself.

With the help of extensions, you can quickly and efficiently make the design of the doorway

The fastening of the facing material is carried out in different ways:

Whatever the fastening, the procedure for facing work is the same.

If possible (or necessary), insulation is placed under the extensions. This will create an additional obstacle to freezing the door in the cold season. Mineral wool or foam rubber is used as a heater.

MDF extensions are simply and quickly mounted on a pre-installed frame

Dismantling the entrance metal door

The need to dismantle a metal door arises when rebuilding or reconstructing old buildings. The procedure for removing a metal door is similar to dismantling any door. However, a metal door is a high-strength structure, so you need to approach its disassembly wisely.

Most often, when disassembling metal doors, difficulties arise with slopes. If they are made of high-quality concrete mortar, then during dismantling work you will have to sweat a little and take a sip of dust. Such slopes can be destroyed only with a powerful puncher with a sharp chisel at the end. During operation, it is necessary to use a respirator, goggles and gloves. Breaking the slopes in the upper part is carried out with special care, from a stable ladder or goats.

Video: dismantling the old front door and installing a new one in 30 minutes

No matter how tempting you are to save money when installing metal doors yourself, do not forget about the services of experienced professionals. The craftsmen who do this work every day are fluent in assembly technology and know all the pitfalls and installation features. In addition, even the most perfect do-it-yourself door is not covered by warranty.