Bicycle scooter blueprints. DIY homemade scooter from old bicycles

A scooter, of course, is not, but it allows you to very much save energy on movement, especially if you use it constantly.

A homemade scooter is easy to manufacture, its cost is minimal, and the health benefits of the body are simply invaluable! After all, it is known that constant uniform loads strengthen the heart muscle and increase the overall tone of the body. A self-assembled scooter helps a lot to increase endurance, if, of course, you use it daily.

Wooden scooter for commuting. The scooter was made from 10 mm plywood and 28 mm furniture board, the latter went to the support platform.

The front fork of the scooter is taken from the standard bike (20 "wheel), the rear wheel is smaller (12").

The scooter is self-assembled, self-tapping screws and furniture corners are used as fasteners, in addition to this, all parts are glued with PVA glue.

During the summer of 2012, more than 600 km were covered on a homemade scooter.

It is worth adding to this description that such a homemade scooter is much better than a purchased one. I have not seen a normal scooter on pneumatic tires at a reasonable price. Even scooters with 2 suspensions (under each wheel) from Decathlon do not allow driving on grass or a country road, and when driving on paving slabs or chipped asphalt on the roadway, they very much "knock" and vibrate, which makes driving very quickly annoying.

Bicycle wheels used in a homemade scooter avoid such shaking, and the large diameter of the wheels helps off-road. In addition, you yourself can design the clearance of your scooter, if you ride on a country road - make it bigger!

With proper manufacture and subsequent treatment with varnish (preferably waterproof - for example, a yacht), a homemade scooter will serve you for many years!

More articles for DIYers.

Today on the market there are a fairly large number of factory electric scooters and you can choose for every taste and wallet.

But any product is known to be designed for the average buyer.

One is foldable and lightweight, but it rides slowly and won't start.

The second one starts and accelerates well, but is too heavy.

What if you want a scooter just for your needs?

There are two options - either take the factory one and modify it, or assemble the device yourself from scratch.

Both options have the right to life and which way to go is the personal choice of each.

I will try to outline how a set of elements for self-assembly is completed.

The main element of the assembled scooter is the "base".

Scooter bases are conventionally divided into subspecies:

Micro - with wheels up to 8 inches,

Mini wheels 8-10 inches,

Midi - 12-16 inches,

Maxi - from 20 inches and more.

Scooters with wide, non-bicycle tires are a bit apart. Reno, Evo, Skruzer and their clones are also scooters, although in terms of engine power and appearance they are clearly closer to scooters and scooters.

So the base, it is from it that you should start dancing.

The final driving performance of the electric scooter depends on the choice of the base.

What should you pay attention to first?

The dimension of the wheels, cast or inflatable, the presence of a suspension, a place for a convenient location of the battery and the width of the dropouts for installing the motor-wheel.

If your city has mirrored asphalt that is washed with shampoo every evening, then 5.5 inches will be fine for you.

If the tiles and cracks in the asphalt are 8 inches this is the minimum and pneumatics are very desirable.

If your asphalt hasn't been repaired for the last 10 years, don't even look below 12 inches.

Do you want to drive at a speed of 40 with a tail and not be afraid to fly head over heels in an unexpected hole? 16 inches and up.

The suspension partially reduces the shock from bumps on small wheels, but the rule "a wheel can run over an obstacle no more than half its diameter" will not go anywhere.

Location of the battery. Options - in the deck, in the steering rack, on the steering wheel in a bag or case, on the trunk, in a backpack.

Some scooters have a cavity in the deck that allows it to be used to pack the battery assembly there.

Pros - low center of gravity, appearance. Cons - sometimes you need additional protection of the battery against impacts on the projections of the roadway.

The battery can be placed in the steering column if it consists of several pipes and there is free space between them. Pros - the battery does not significantly affect the weight distribution of the scooter; when making the cladding, the scooter is not afraid of falls. Cons - labor intensity of work.

Also, some scooters have bottle mounts on the steering rack, where you can screw a case or a battery in a "bottle". Pros - ease of installation, easy removability. Cons - interferes with driving, if you fall, you can break off the fasteners.

You can place the battery on the steering wheel in the case. Pros - ease of installation, easy removability. Cons - deterioration in weight distribution, more tangible blows to the front wheel. If dropped, it is possible to break the case.

On the handlebars in the bag, batteries are usually made for small and folding scooters. The bag for photographic equipment is sufficient for a small battery and does not attract attention. Pros - ease of installation, Cons - risk of damage to the battery if dropped.

The rear trunk battery was a popular solution for early e-bikes. It is of little relevance for scooters due to the lack of a trunk on most of them. Pros - ease of installation, easy removability. Cons - change in weight distribution, tangible blows to the rear wheel.

It is also possible to ride with a battery in a backpack and a cable with a connector for the scooter itself. Pros - the ability to insulate the battery for use in the winter. Facilitation of the scooter, due to which the maneuverability and disposition to active skiing with jumps are noticeably increased. Cons - diseases of the spine from constant load (depending on the weight of the battery), change in weight distribution on the side of the motor-wheel.

The width of the dropouts.

This is the distance between the seats in the front or rear fork of the scooter.

For micro and mini models, standard 45 or 65 mm motor wheels. For what is more - 100 mm.

Bicycle mk under the front wheel just also have a 100mm standard.

There are mk 110, with a brake disc, but less often.

135mm is the size of a bicycle rear wheel, with gears on one side.

The electrical part of the electric scooter is quite simple, 4 points - battery, controller, motor and controls.

Previously, the batteries were lead, heavy, with a low resource of 300-400 cycles and low charge-discharge currents.

Modern electric scooters ride on varieties of lithium batteries - lithium-ion, lithium-polymer, lithium-iron phosphate.

Let's consider the difference in them.

Lithium-polymer (LiPo) batteries have a favorable cost, high charge and discharge currents, a service life of 500-800 cycles.

Lithium-ion (LiIon) - 500-1000 cycles, light weight, temperature dependent.

In general, there are three subspecies of ionoc, depending on the type of chemistry. Some have higher capacitance, but more internal resistance, others have high current, but do not shine with capacity.

They require protection from mechanical damage when used on scooters. There have been cases of ignition from impacts when dropped.

Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo4) - About twice as heavy as ion ions, more expensive. They issue and receive large currents, a resource of 2000 cycles.

Not fire hazardous, rather resistant to mechanical deformation. Can be discharged at subzero temperatures.

The drive of the scooter wheel from an external motor by a belt or a chain is still found, but it is clearly losing positions to motor-wheels.

The wheel motor is the best choice of motor for self-assembly electric scooter.

They are of two types - geared and direct drive. Let's analyze the difference, pros and cons of each type.

Reducer mk.

Lighter than mk direct drive of the same power, better efficiency at low speeds. Excellent roll due to the freewheel, which is very useful when using a kick scooter. There are wearing parts - gears, someday they will need to be replaced. Noise - the gearbox whines during operation. Impossibility of regenerative braking. Slightly better boost potential due to higher RPM.

Direct drive (DD).

Heavier gearboxes, roll-off is worse due to the toothed effect. There are no wearing parts other than bearings in such mk. Low noise, and when using a sine controller can be generally silent. They have the ability to use regenerative braking. They justify themselves when using a scooter in areas with large differences in altitude and as a means of saving brake pads. When installing mk on mini and micro scooters, it happens that recuperation is the only adequate brake on board.

Controller.

The controller is the brains of our scooter, the thrust in the hills, the way of starting and the dynamics of acceleration will depend on its choice. The choice of controller must be made according to the parameters of the motor. For example, a wheel motor has parameters: 48V 350W, what does this mean?

The nominal voltage of the motor-wheel is 48 volts. Nobody forbids feeding it less, but at the same time its power will be lower. No one forbids feeding more to it, but it is important not to overheat the micron with the pumped in power.

This is the rated power of a given micron. As practice shows, the rated power can be boosted by 1.5-2 times for DD and 2-2.5 for gearboxes. To select a controller, let's convert watts to amperes - 350/48 \u003d 7.3 amperes. Of course, it will go at 7.3 amperes, but it's rather sad, so we force it to 12-15 amperes for a direct drive and 15-18 for a gearbox. For these currents, we will need to look for a controller for such a micron.

Governing bodies.

1 - power switch.

The power supply is usually connected directly to the controller and is not interrupted during idle time. The power switch turns off the low-current part of the controller, which supplies voltage to the control circuit. Since the currents there are small, you can use almost any suitable latching button.

2 - Gazulka.

It is a motorcycle-type throttle stick, or half or throttle trigger. I strongly recommend choosing the trigger, since it is easy to release it in an emergency, and the person instinctively grabs the handle tighter to hold on. Has at least three wires - plus 5 volts, ground and signal output.

3 - Brake levers.

Electric scooters are equipped with brake levers with built-in limit switches to turn off the motor when the brake is pressed. If the controller has an activated regenerative braking mode, it will also turn on when any brake lever is pressed. There are built-in buttons, reed switches and hall sensors. Connection - ground, output signal. For hall sensors, + 5 volts are additionally connected. Sometimes, in order not to change the standard handles, separate modules with reed switches or hall sensors are installed. They are attached to a cable, or to the body of the handles.

So we figured out the general electrical device.

Consider assembly examples.

In this project, the Yedoo Ox base is used,

battery cells lithium iron phosphate

and mk direct drive, diameter 12 inches.

The battery is divided into two packs and is located in the deck and in the steering rack.

The controller is fixed under the steering column, where it does not interfere and is always blown by the air flow.

Rear-wheel drive, this is a convenient solution for climbing hills. The battery is protected from below by a 4mm Alucobond plate.

The final characteristics of the scooter:

Weight 18.5 kg.

Battery 16S3P, 52 volts 9 ampere-hour.

Every boy's dream is to ride a scooter. However, modern girls are not averse to taking a ride. But now the usual scooter has a more desirable replacement - a scooter with a motor. And not only a child, but also an adult can ride it with the "breeze".

For the smallest children (4-7 years old) you can purchase an inexpensive scooter "Hummingbird", which is available in blue and red.

Its maximum speed is low - 10 km / h, but for a kid riding such a scooter is a real rally. You can drive on one charge 2.5 miles... Will withstand the folding structure of a child weighing up to 40 kg... The scooter itself weighs only 8.2 kg, i.e. the child may well raise him to the floor on his own. Wide footrest - 580x130 mm, the size of wheels with tires in diameter - 137 mm, which speaks of the reliability and safety of the vehicle. Wheel rims are on bearings and they are made of durable plastic. Throttle stick for speed control, one-piece tires, drum rear brake, lead-acid maintenance-free battery, requiring up to 8 hours to fully charge, motor 120 W - these are the main characteristics of the model. A dream, not a scooter!

Where to buy the Hummingbird scooter and its cost?

The cost of this miracle toy and at the same time a personal vehicle only 69 dollars ... You can buy a scooter at e-bike.com.ua .

Small costs and imagination will help you make a scooter from a regular cordless drill

In the retail network today, the choice of electric scooters is huge, but you can easily make an electric scooter from a battery drill, well, you still have to disassemble grinder... Craftsmen who already ride scooters with a motor, who made them with their own hands, say that a motor that develops up to 550 rpm, it is enough for driving on city streets.

The battery will also work from a drill - 14.4 V

The frame can be made from the usual shaped steel pipe (wall thickness 2.5mm) - it will quite withstand weight in 100 kg... Or use a frame from a regular scooter. In a bicycle store you need to purchase rubber grips, a handlebar mount, a thrust bearing designed for a load of 300 kg. There are several options for transmitting rotation to the wheel: using a chain, two gears, a friction nozzle, using a rigid gear and a motor - wheels... But, the last option is practically impossible to implement, because this important part must be ordered in China.

Immediately you need to decide which of the wheels will rotate? To connect the generator, you will also need an overrunning clutch (it is also easy to buy), bearings, wheels. Battery will fit lithium polymer (11.1V 2.2Ah). With a little conjure over all this, you can get a good vehicle.

How much does it cost to make an electric scooter from a drill?

The cost of making an electric scooter with your own hands is about five thousand rubles, versus the cost of the structure in the retail network at the cost 14-140 thousand rubles.

Useful link, do-it-yourself electric scooter: http://www.samartsev.ru/nikboris/gallery/2011/samokat/samokat.htm

In this article, we again touch on the topic of homemade products, this time we will focus on a scooter with a motor. First you need to say about the purpose of this homemade product, it is intended for entertainment, you can ride it along the park paths, ride in the yard or drive a short distance.

Now let's talk about the limitations that are inherent in this creation.

1. First, let's talk about speed. It cannot exceed 40 km / h, since the front wheel is small, its diameter is 260 mm, it is taken from a wheelbarrow and can withstand a load of only 80 kg.

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In addition, it has a large area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the road surface relative to a given diameter, under conditions of operation on a two-wheeled vehicle. Simply put, our vehicle will throw from side to sideas a result of which the driver is at risk of falling.

2. Based on the selected type of tire, we can talk about a critical load that the wheel itself cannot withstand. Since the front wheel is taken from a construction wheelbarrow and the maximum load on it is 80kg. Now let's think about the fact that no builder runs at a speed of 40 km / h with an 80 kg wheelbarrow. It can be concluded that the tire is not designed for such a load. Therefore, the maximum weight per front wheel should not exceed 40 kg. Considering that we have two wheels, the maximum weight of the driver with the structure should not exceed 80 kg.

3. Travel time. 40 km / h speed is great for night travel, headlights must be used. You can use an ordinary flashlight, but its power should be at least 20 watts. You can put a dynamo.

4. Age. The person who controls it must understand what is happening around and what responsibility he bears. Therefore, it cannot be a child of 8 years old.

Now let's talk about those. parts.

Based on their main purpose and limiting parameters, the power plant was chosen. The engine from a chainsaw was the best choice. Wheels were chosen based on size and cost. That is why the front wheel was taken from the wheelbarrow, the rear wheel was available. It turned out to be a front kart wheel. This makes it possible not to worry about excessive stress on it. The rear wheel drive is carried out using a chain drive, for this we had to make a gearbox.

It is not difficult to calculate the wheel speed at 40 km / h. Knowing the revolutions of the engine and wheels, dividing the first by the second, a reduction gear ratio of 1:12 was obtained. Then you need to select the chain pitch. Based on cost and load, a bike chain was chosen. But since the smallest possible gear with a bicycle pitch has 10 teeth, the size of a gear with 120 teeth can only be guessed at. Therefore, it was decided to use 2 gearboxes. One of the most difficult tasks was attaching the bicycle gear to the chainsaw clutch.

After that, on a lathe, it was made thinner, since the pitch of the chains is the same, but the width is different. The clutch teeth were sheared off on a lathe. The dimensions of the parts are very small, as a result, the gear wheel had to be shrunk onto the clutch disc. The sprocket was lowered into nitrogen, and the clutch disc was heated to 400 degrees in an oven, which made it possible to fit more tightly, making the landing tolerance less. Then the clutch discs were hardened again. The first problem has been resolved. In order to be able to simply change the gear ratio, the lead of the second gear was taken from a sports bike.

In the same not tricky way, the bushing of the rear gears of the bicycle was put on the hot and the hub of the rear gears of the bicycle on the transition hub, the transition hub sits with a tension fit on the shaft, and the shaft - on the bearings.

The gear and brake disc are fastened to the wheel using another hub. It is one-piece and sits on bearings. Naturally, the shaft is stationary. It is cheaper to grind a brake disc than to buy it on the market, at least in this situation it was. The brake machine was used from a bicycle.

Not unimportant process of creating a frame. The easiest way to work with a square is a 15 mm square. The frame was cooked in a welding machine so that the metal would not lead. The steering gear is used from a bicycle, only it has been slightly strengthened. The throttle and brake levers are simple. The throttle stick is from a moped, and the brakes are from the bike. An oil bottle serves as a gas tank.

Powerful battery ... And impressive value. Yes, there are economy options, but can you spend even less? And if so, how to make an electric scooter with your own hands?

Where to begin?

Decide on what basis you will make your iron horse. There are three good, tried-and-true options:

• From a screwdriver... Drills and screwdrivers are convenient because the battery is very easy to pull out of them for recharging. In addition, most models have several speeds, which is also quite a lot;
• From a hoverboard... Very good in terms of battery connectivity and management, but quite expensive
• From radiator cooling engine... Perhaps the most difficult option in terms of implementation, but the motor is quite powerful and almost free (you can find a suitable engine at any auto-analysis).

If you don't have a lot of experience with such tasks, we recommend making an electric scooter with your own hands from a screwdriver.

Broadcast

Have you chosen an engine? Now it is important to decide how you will transfer torque from it to the wheels. The following transfer options are available:

• Chain;
• Friction nozzle;
• Two gears;
• Hard gear.

Again: if you don't have much experience, put the chain. The option is controversial, because the chain can fly off and, but in the implementation it will be the easiest way.

Wheels

Which wheel will drive: rear or front? If you choose the rear, it will be easier to mount, if the front, the scooter will be better controlled. We advise you to get confused with connecting the front wheel, it's worth it. The wheels themselves can be taken the most common, with plastic disks. Wheels from garden carts work well.

Frame

The frame is made from conventional steel pipes. Profiled steel 2.5 mm thick will be enough for a self-made electric scooter to withstand a load of up to 100 kilograms.

IMPORTANT:If you are making an electric scooter not entirely from scratch, but on the basis of an ordinary - not motorized - scooter, you will not have questions with the frame and wheels. Just choose from durable and stable models: very graceful ones may not be ready for serious loads.

Battery

Do not use heavy lead batteries! You will most likely not be able to neatly tuck them under the deck and the battery will simply break the entire balance of your scooter. If you are doing it on the basis of a screwdriver, there are no questions - use your own battery - if not, look at for electric helicopters, the same drills and similar equipment.

You will also need

• Wires;
• Power button or toggle switch;
• Plastic box for the battery;
• Fasteners (usually bolts and nuts).

It is not necessary to use welding or similar technically sophisticated fastening methods.

How to make an electric scooter with your own hands?

The best choice would be to watch a video on YouTube before starting work. Look specifically for a scooter assembly based on the engine you have chosen and with the gear you have selected - there are videos for almost all existing options.

And, in any case, you will need some experience of working with your hands. Ideal if you have already worked with electrics and metal. If you have no experience, we strongly recommend finding an assembly partner or at least a consultant - a person who can look at your idea and project, give his comments on it.

If you do everything carefully, an electric scooter with your own hands will cost only 5-7 thousand rubles, which means that you can significantly save money. Good luck in the assembly!