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  • Reliable foundation from improvised materials. How to make a formwork for the foundation with your own hands: step by step instructions Basic requirements for formwork

    Reliable foundation from improvised materials.  How to make a formwork for the foundation with your own hands: step by step instructions Basic requirements for formwork

    The base of the trench must be level. To do this, it is recommended to use the water level.

    When building a house, an important step is the installation of a strip foundation. This will require a little money and materials that can be purchased at any building supermarket.

    If necessary, you can make a strip foundation with your own hands.

    In this case, it will be necessary to find out some technological aspects of its arrangement, prematurely making the necessary calculations.

    A similar foundation is used for the construction of various buildings, which provide for the installation of a basement, subfloor or basement.

    Stages of upcoming work

    The device of the strip foundation for the house includes the following steps:

    1. Soil analysis.
    2. Base marking.
    3. Formwork installation.
    4. waterproofing layer.
    5. Foundation pouring.

    In order, you will first need to analyze the soil on the land where you plan to build a house. For this purpose, data from geological surveys carried out by special organizations are used. If necessary, soil analysis can be carried out independently.

    For this purpose, a well is developed and soil samples are taken at different depths. In case of non-standard water supply to the site, it is recommended to drill a well or dig a pit. For an accurate assessment of the soil, the depth of this well should be 50-70 cm greater than the depth of soil freezing.

    If the foundation will be mounted above 400 mm, then you need to make a layer of crushed stone or gravel on the sand cushion.

    Another important point in this matter is the measurement of the depth of the soil and bulk layers. Due to the low bearing capacity, it is not recommended to carry out on such substrates. In the future, these layers are removed, and sand, clay or loam is left as the basis.

    Since it is typical for the soil to swell during the cold season, the main task of arranging a strip foundation is to ensure uniform swelling over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation of the house. It is possible in such a situation to equip the base so that it rests on non-swellable soil layers. If necessary, the swellable soil is replaced by a layer of gravel or sand, which needs to be wetted and compacted.

    Fine-grained and silty sands are distinguished from heaving soils. Installation of a strip base is best done on sandy, rocky and clastic soils, that is, dry soils with shallow freezing.

    Preparatory work

    Reinforcing the foundation of the house is necessary. The metal used serves as the skeleton of the foundation, and builders call the procedure for reinforcing the base viscous reinforcement.

    In order for the erected strip foundation to be a reliable foundation for the house with your own hands, it will be necessary to mark it out at the preparatory stage. If you plan to build a low-rise building, then the width of this design can be 400 mm. For marking, builders recommend using a theodolite or improvised means. As soon as the perimeter of the future foundation is outlined, you can start driving reinforcement or pegs in the corners. In this case, it is necessary to check the presence of right angles with a goniometer. A fishing line is pulled onto pegs or reinforcement. In the same way, you need to make markup inside. It should be noted that you will need to indent the width of the base of the house.

    As for the depth of the base, this indicator depends on the climate of the area and the height of the building. An important role in this matter is played by the material from which the installation of the structure is provided. It should also be taken into account that the base of the trench must be even. To do this, it is recommended to use the water level.

    Arrangement technology

    As for the trench for the foundation of the house, it can be done manually or using construction equipment. The first method provides for the performance of this work more accurately. However, the second method allows you to dig a trench in the shortest possible time. In any case, the bottom of the trench will need to be leveled and cleaned.

    After the trench is dug, to soften and distribute the future load of the structure, experts advise making a sand cushion 100-150 mm thick. It also levels out. If the foundation will be mounted above 400 mm, then you need to make a layer of crushed stone or gravel on the sand cushion. The thickness of this layer should be 100-150 mm. You can compact the sand using a vibrating plate or improvised means. At the same time, it should be watered with water, which contributes to the maximum compaction of the pillow. After that, crushed stone or broken brick is laid, which will serve as a support for the mounted reinforcement. The thickness of this layer must be at least 200 mm. Next, the waterproofing of the lowest layers of the foundation of the house is performed. For these purposes, roofing material, a dense polyethylene film or other effective material is used to retain moisture in concrete during the time allotted for its hardening.

    After compacting this layer, you can proceed to the construction of the formwork. For this, improvised materials are used: plywood, pieces of metal tiles and boards. Installation of formwork for is carried out directly at the place where it is planned to build a house. The presence of a flat area is the main point. To make the formwork correctly, builders recommend knocking it down from the inside, and bending the nails from the outside. In this case, a more even surface is obtained, and the dismantling of the structure under construction is easy and simple. As soon as the formwork is set above the intended level of pouring concrete, it will be necessary to fix this level. To do this, a mark is placed on the outside, and a fishing line is pulled around the entire perimeter of the structure. Particular attention should be paid to the vertical position of the structural shields, including their ability to withstand internal pressure.

    When carrying out these works, it should be taken into account that the installation of the formwork is carried out to the entire depth of the dug trench (with a fixed structure). Also, when installing it, it is recommended to make ventilation, sewer, water holes that will pass through the tape base.

    Reinforcement of the tape base

    If done correctly, then the properties of the concrete used will be qualitatively changed. At the same time, the strength characteristics of the material will be preserved. Reinforcing the foundation of the house is necessary. The metal used serves as the skeleton of the foundation, and builders call the procedure for reinforcing the base viscous reinforcement.

    To do this work, you will need to tie metal rods together with wire. The resulting structure is placed between the formwork. Depending on the type of soil, the loads exerted on the foundation of the house and other aspects, the choice of reinforcement of the desired diameter is carried out. Most often, metal with a diameter of 12-14 mm is used for the frame. This design is presented in the form of 2-3 rows of vertical metal rods, which are interconnected by horizontal similar products.

    This takes into account a step of 100-250 mm between the "floors", transverse, longitudinal, vertical and horizontal components. More than 50 mm of free space is left on all sides of the structure. This will allow her to be inside the monolith. To install steel reinforcement, you will need to lay out the bottom of the foundation with bricks. As soon as cells of 330 * 350 mm in size are made in the metal structure using a knitting wire, the resulting frame is laid on the bottom of the pit on a brick layer. If you make a reinforcing mesh by welding, then the resulting structure will lose its flexibility.

    Pouring concrete

    To make a concrete mortar, you will need a concrete mixer and cement grade M200, M300 or M400. The choice of this material is carried out taking into account the weather conditions characteristic at the time of the arrangement of the strip foundation for the house. In any case, in the cold season it is recommended to use special additives.

    As for the preparation of the concrete mixture, it will be necessary to take the components in the following ratio: crushed stone, sand, cement - 3: 3: 1. So much water is added to get liquid concrete that can hold its shape. In addition, each component used must be clean and with a valid expiration date (cement).

    Concrete should be poured into the formwork gradually. When performing such work, the main rule is to exclude the possibility of voids in concrete. In order for the mortar to lie well along the walls of the formwork, experts recommend tapping them periodically in order to distribute the load of the concrete mix. Fill the entire depth of the strip foundation of the house should be as soon as possible. In this case, the base array will not delaminate. To ensure maximum strength of the foundation, its upper part is periodically watered.

    Once the mixture is poured, it will need to be pierced in several places with a dipstick. This will remove excess air from it. Formwork is removed only after 3-5 days. If the foundation has gained the necessary strength, experts recommend making houses, including arranging it with a basement and conducting communications.

    It is possible to carry out these works only 5-7 days after pouring concrete. For waterproofing, it will be necessary to dismantle the formwork, covering the side surface of the base of the house with the necessary material: bituminous mastic or roofing material.

    To make a tape-type base for a house, you will need the following tools:

    • concrete mixer;
    • theodolite;
    • goniometer;
    • water level;
    • electric tamper;
    • vibrating plate;
    • hammer;
    • hammer;
    • chainsaw;
    • Bulgarian;
    • hacksaw;
    • welding machine;
    • shovels;
    • buckets.

    The final stage of this process is presented in the form of backfilling of the sinuses of the foundation. For these works, moistened sand is used, which, after backfilling, is carefully compacted (since the foundation has already been waterproofed). After 3-4 weeks, the concrete mortar will completely harden. The time indicator in this case depends on weather conditions. To protect the upper part of the foundation of the house from external precipitation, it is recommended to cover it, for example, with plastic wrap.

    Monolithic l do-it-yourself foundation foundation

    Monolithic l foundation foundation is one of the most popular types of foundation in the construction of private houses, since its design is simple, it is not difficult to perform. Besides,monolithic strip foundation suitable for building houses with basement, cellar, basement. This is a great option for the construction of frame houses, garages, baths and sheds.



    When the work is carried out correctly, taking into account the norms and requirementsmonolithic the strip foundation will provide reliable support for the building for many years, as it is a monolithic type of foundation. When pouring monolithic strip foundation, you need to take into account the type of building, the characteristics of the local climate, soil and standards for the construction of a strip foundation. With all of the above, you canmonolithic strip foundation do-it-yourself, thereby saving a considerable amount of money. Besides, where are the guarantees that the construction teams will comply with all the norms? And you will, because you are making the foundation for your home.Monolithic l foundation foundation most often used in dry, non-rocky soil, so if you have weak soil, it is better to use columnar - strip foundation for home. Also, financial costs can greatly increase if pouring monolithic strip foundation with a depth of more than 0.6 meters.

    Monolithic l foundation foundation do it yourself– tools and materials for pouring:

    Line for marking the strip foundation do it yourself;
    laser tape measure or goniometer;
    shovel for digging a trench;
    water level;
    m formwork materials: boards, plywood, etc.;
    fasteners for mounting the formwork system;
    manual or electric rammer;
    Master OK;
    hammer;
    fittings;

    knitting wire.

    b cement mixer or trough for mixing the solution, and, accordingly, sand, crushed stone and cement.


    Strip foundation marking do it yourself

    We make an approximate marking of the future foundation on the ground, determine the external angles using a goniometer or laser tape measure, they must be strictly 90 degrees. We drive in pegs or pieces of reinforcement into the places of the outer corners and pull a fishing line or rope over them. So we measured and marked the outer perimeter of the strip foundation.
    For marking the inner perimeter monolithic strip foundation retreat from the outer perimeter inside the future building the required distance (the thickness of the walls of the building + approximately 40 — 100 mm). Reinforcement is also driven into the inner corners and a fishing line is pulled between them.

    Digging a trench for monolithic strip foundation do it yourself

    Before digging a trench undermonolithic strip foundation, you need to find the lowest angle. This can be done using the water level. In this lowest corner, we dig a hole to an average depth of 40 - 50 cm and then dig a trench in any direction. When digging a trench, it is necessary to use the water level to ensure that its bottom is even horizontally. The walls of the trench must also be vertically level, in accordance with the building level or plumb line. Compliance with these rules will subsequently give us a quality stable monolithic strip foundationhandmadefor our building.
    After we have dug a trench, a layer of sand of at least 150 mm is poured on its bottom, wetted with water and compacted with a rammer. During this operation, it is necessary to check the horizontal evenness of the bottom using a water level. Thus, we made a sand cushion for the strip foundation with our own hands. To increase the strength and reliability of the foundation, a layer of crushed stone can be poured onto the sand and waterproofing made of polyethylene film or roofing felt.


    Formwork for monolithic
    Formwork for monolithic strip foundation can be made from improvised means: plywood, old boards, corrugated board, etc., thereby saving on the purchase of new materials. Formwork assembly is carried out using nails or screws, the latter is better, since screws ensure easy and trouble-free dismantling of the formwork later on. It is necessary that the formwork walls rise above the ground by at least 300mm. With the help of an extended fishing line, the level is marked to which the concrete solution will be poured for monolithic strip foundation.
    In the process of installing do-it-yourself formwork for
    monolithic strip foundation, it is immediately necessary to provide for various kinds of communication openings, for example, for water supply, sewerage, ventilation, etc. If you ignore this in the process of creating the formwork for the foundation, then after the foundation is poured out of concrete, you will have to break its solidity with the help of jackhammers and perforators, which will negatively affect its strength, plus additional labor and financial waste. In places providing for communication openings, cut pipes are installed, protected from the penetration of concrete into them. After monolithic the strip foundation will be poured, these pieces of pipes will be communication holes in which various kinds of communications will be laid.

    Reinforcement of a monolithic strip foundation with their own hands.

    Most often in monolithic strip foundations for the construction of private houses, reinforcing bars with a diameter of 12 mm are used. The reinforcing bars are connected to each other with a knitting wire so that square cells of the order of 30 cm are formed. Also, the reinforcement can be connected by welding or a combination of these methods. Mounting fittings for monolithic strip foundation, it is necessary that there is an indent from all sides (the bottom of the trench and the walls of the formwork) of the order of 40 - 60 mm. This will protect the reinforcement from corrosion.

    Pouring a monolithic strip foundation do it yourself
    Before pouring
    monolithic strip foundation, you need to calculate how much concrete is required for this. First, we calculate the volume of the base: we multiply the height, length and width.
    Preparing a solution for
    monolithic strip foundation with their own hands. Mix sand, gravel and cement in a ratio of 3:5:1 and dilute with water. If you have the opportunity to use factory-prepared concrete, then you can use it, while saving time, since it is quite difficult to mix all the components of concrete in large volumes yourself.

    When pouring concrete monolithic strip foundation do it yourself you need to follow some rules:

    Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers of 20 cm.
    Each layer is rammed with wooden rammers so that voids do not form in the concrete.
    The formwork walls are also tapped.
    Concrete is poured up to the restrictive fishing line that we pulled earlier.
    At the end of the pouring work, we periodically pierce the concrete in the formwork with reinforcement to eliminate air bubbles in the concrete, level the surface monolithic strip foundation in the formwork with a trowel and tap with a mallet.


    With monolithic filling we figured out the foundation, now we are waiting for about 28 days for it to dry and gain strength. Formwork can be removed after 4-7 days. Monolithic l the foundation should be covered with plastic wrap at night, and during the day, especially in extreme heat, it should be watered abundantly with water, then cracks will not appear on it.

    Materials for a monolithic strip foundation and their cost you can calculate in a free construction calculator

    Here, watch a video on how a monolithic strip foundation is made with your own hands. In this video, you will see how electric poles of power transmission lines (power lines) are used instead of standard fittings, they are simply laid in a trench for the foundation and poured with concrete. Electric poles already contain robust fittings in their design. For strength at the corners of the foundation, the pillars are placed on top of each other. I think that such a foundation is provided with enhanced power and strength!

    Do-it-yourself foundation construction

    Your attention is invited to another video of the poured monolithic strip foundation, made by my team. I hope it will be useful to you!

    Do-it-yourself monolithic strip foundation

    Cheap and cheerful* © All rights reserved. The materials are published for informational purposes only and are protected by
    "Law on b intellectual property".
    Copying is allowed only with reference to the source, otherwise copying is punishable by law.

    The formwork for the foundation is the basis of the entire foundation, due to which the concrete receives the desired shape during the solidification process.

    Formwork is divided into two types:

    • Removable - used for construction outside the city for a short period of operation, as well as for raising the strip foundation. Here you can take various materials for construction. For example, wooden bars or boards.
    • Fixed - used for the construction of a columnar bored foundation, where the main role is played by an asbestos-cement pipe or other material for construction. At this stage, the pipe is filled with a solution, leaving it an inseparable part of the support.

    How to make formwork for the foundation

    Before the formwork is made, it is necessary to clean the area from debris and dig a trench. Then you need to prepare the boards and bars (cut them in advance) and build shields, that is, knock down the prepared sections of boards and beams vertically and horizontally to each other at a distance of 1 m. For example, a shield 3 m long will be connected 3 times by longitudinal boards, the length of which prevails shield width.

    The outer side of this shield must be even and smooth, which ensures the quality, strength of the surface of the lower part of the foundation. You can knock down boards with nails (an inexpensive option, but a long one) or screw them with self-tapping screws (it will be more expensive, but faster and more durable). It plays a significant role on which side the cap of the connecting element will be located. The cap should be on the side where it will be in contact with concrete (outer side).

    The right formwork for the foundation

    Upon completion of the manufacture of shields and their installation along the entire length of the trench, they begin to make wooden clamps, the length of which should not be less than half the height of the shield. These used elements provide the formwork with auxiliary hardness, since when pouring the foundation, the concrete solution exerts a significant pressure on the mold walls, therefore, it is necessary to prepare the formwork with heavy loads. Unprepared, you can meet with unforeseen surprises. For example, bursting or punching formwork under the weight of concrete. Clamps are fixed in the center of the segment between the struts.

    In places where the boards are fastened into a shield, auxiliary supporting elements are installed. Such elements are called struts. Their role is to strengthen the formwork for the foundation, so that it does not spread under the load of the mortar. Shields need to be installed only horizontally and vertically in accordance with the project. When installing horizontally, they check with a level, and vertically with a plumb line.

    The gaps need to be checked. Their presence leads to the flow of concrete or concrete milk. The gaps must be eliminated. To do this, you can use tow or waterproofing compounds. Be sure to take care of waterproofing your foundation in advance. For waterproofing, it is necessary that the inside of the formwork for the foundation, as well as the trench, be completely covered with a sheet of roofing material, only after that they begin to reinforce the foundation.

    Formwork board

    For formwork, you can use boards not only of the first grade, but also of the second, since they will not be reused anywhere. The only exception may be if you use waterproofing materials (for example, roofing material).

    If there is a desire and funds allow, then it is possible to insulate the underground part of your foundation with polystyrene foam plates, which are located on the outside of the foundation perimeter. In this case, the insulation material is placed under the waterproofing layer and after that you can proceed to other stages of work. Or you can simply buy formwork, which you only have to install.

    The construction of the formwork, which is a constructive and significant element, is an important stage in the construction of the foundation.

    - This is the form into which the concrete solution is poured. It is installed after earthworks have been completed, when the trench has been dug and the platform for the foundation has been prepared. Purpose - giving the structure a certain shape and strength.

    How to make a formwork for the foundation with your own hands, so that it contributes to the construction of a solid foundation for the house, while reducing labor and money costs to a minimum. These tasks excite every person who independently decides to build a cottage, garage and other buildings that must have a solid foundation.

    Construction technology

    1. Equip a trench for the base of the foundation; determine the dimensions of the reinforcement, its density, depth and width. These values ​​​​depend on the number of floors of the house being built and on the type of building material used.
    2. Clear area from debris around the trench.
    3. Level the area along the dug trenches so that there are no holes, depressions in the place where the structure will be built. Otherwise, cement will leak out through the cracks due to poor formwork construction.
    4. Make shields from beams and boards, and drive them around the trench. It is necessary to take three-meter boards and knock them together, placing small boards across them, at a distance of 40 mm from each other. Therefore, a three-meter shield will have about three joints of transverse boards, the length of which is greater than its width. In the future, the difference in their length will help to drive shields around the trenches. The front side must necessarily be even, which qualitatively affects the reliability and strength of the base. Boards are connected with self-tapping screws (faster, stronger, more expensive) or nails (slower, cheaper). The head of the fastener should be located on the front side, which will interact with concrete in the future.
    5. Production and use of wooden clamps, the length of the vertical elements of which should not be less than half the height of the shield. This will increase the rigidity of the structure, so when pouring concrete, maximum pressure is exerted on the walls of the mold. The system must be able to handle such loads. Otherwise, its deformation will occur: bursting, cracking, punching. In the middle between the struts are wooden clamps.
    6. At a distance of at least 1 meter struts (additional support elements) are placed at the junction of the boards and the shield. Together with clamps, they serve to strengthen the formwork, giving it good strength so that it does not deform under high concrete pressure. Shields must be installed, observing all the necessary dimensions horizontally and vertically. This is checked by a level in the horizontal plane, and a plumb line in the vertical plane. Two opposite shields are fixed with the help of spacers made of timber and fixing elements located on top, in line with the struts.
    7. With the formation of cracks in the structure, they must be sealed with a composition for waterproofing or tow. It can be lined with roofing felt inside and around the trench.
    8. Then carried out.
    9. If there is a need, the part of the foundation that is in the ground, from the outside. Insulation is laid under the waterproofing layer, after which other construction work is carried out.

    Advice! For formwork, boards of the second grade can be used. It must be borne in mind that after that they can no longer be reused.

    Kinds

    Formwork happens:

    • removable;

    Removable formwork is usually used in the construction of cottages. It is usually made from steel panels, plywood sheets and boards.

    The non-removable type is characterized by simple and quick assembly and installation. In the future, after the concrete has hardened, it does not need to be removed. For its construction, it will not be necessary to perform a large amount of land work, and after use, install additional parts: struts and supports.

    The material is a variety of improvised building items, depending on the method and type of foundation being built:

    • metal frame;
    • polystyrene boards;
    • asbestos or metal pipes, 150-200 mm in diameter.

    The main advantage of a fixed structure is the strengthening and insulation of the base through the use of building materials.


    Basic requirements for formwork

    1. Sufficient level of rigidity.
    2. When poured, concrete should not deform.
    3. Easy installation.
    4. Ensuring isolation from earth preventing concrete leakage.
    5. The design must be without gaps to prevent concrete leakage.
    6. High strength to withstand the pressure of the entire mass of concrete on the walls.
    7. Dimensions- accurate and sustained.
    8. Elements must be fastened so that after the concrete mixture has hardened, they can be disassembled and removed.

    Formwork materials

    Depending on the type of material, there are several types of formwork:

    Metal formwork

    Metal formwork is the most expensive, but at the same time, a versatile type of construction, made from 1-2 mm steel sheets.

    Advantages:

    1. This type quickly and easily takes the desired shape., since the steel sheet bends well at a certain angle.
    2. Attaches high waterproofing structure.
    3. Does it is possible to attach the formwork to the reinforcement frame by welding, which is ideal when erecting a strip or monolithic base.
    4. P with a strong protrusion of the base above ground level, the metal structure is easy to process from the outside.

    Flaws: great cost.

    Reinforced concrete formwork

    Reinforced concrete formwork is an expensive type.

    Advantages:

    Using thick concrete slabs, it is possible to significantly reduce the consumption of concrete mortar, without reducing the strength of the foundation.

    Flaws:

    Since the slabs are quite heavy, with insufficient height, it will be necessary to install spacers, in addition to those erected.


    Styrofoam formwork

    Expanded polystyrene formwork is the most practical formwork, which is constructed from blocks of expanded polystyrene, securely fixed to each other.

    Advantages:

    1. Ease of installation.
    2. The ability to give the desired shape.
    3. High waterproofing.
    4. Insulation functions.

    Flaws:

    1. Difficult to find some items(corners and roundings).
    2. High price.

    wooden formwork

    wooden formwork a view in which boards and plywood sheets are used.

    Advantages:

    1. Affordable price.
    2. Easy to find material.
    3. Ease of installation.
    4. No special equipment required for installation.

    Flaws:

    To ensure the strength of the connections of the elements, additional means are used. Reason: different sizes of materials.

    Formwork from improvised materials

    Formwork from improvised materials - various building materials are used for its construction: boards, slate, pipes, corrugated board, etc., providing the desired shape to the base and preventing the concrete solution from flowing out.

    Advantages: availability and low cost.

    Flaws:

    1. Difficulty of installation, as usually a variety of building materials.
    2. Danger concrete leaks.
    3. Small Power: therefore, it is better not to build large structures, but to limit yourself to small sizes.
    4. The need to use additional wedges and supports.

    In order to correctly determine the required type of formwork, you must first select the type of construction that corresponds to a specific foundation or structure. Metal or wooden removable formwork is well suited for the construction of a basement that does not require insulation.

    Fixed - for a building whose basement needs protection from water and cold.

    The choice of a certain type is also influenced by the type of soil of the construction site, the features of the foundation, what materials it is made of.

    Film formwork- a new economical type, in which the container, where the building mixture is poured, is enveloped in a material (film), which improves the quality of the reinforced concrete structure. In this case, the material used for the construction remains in its original state.

    Regardless of the type of equipment and material used for, all types are similar to each other with a simple design device and installation principles.

    The pouring of the foundation is carried out in a pre-equipped formwork. This design must be mounted in compliance with a number of established rules and regulations. Familiarize yourself with the features of the existing varieties of formwork, the procedure for their calculation, instructions for the construction of the most common structures and get to work.

    Of course, before erecting the formwork, you need to decide on the type of foundation that you will build. We recommend reading the following materials on our portal:

    - first of all, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the step-by-step technology for erecting a strip foundation. In which, among other things, it is told about the method of erecting timber formwork.

    Formwork materials

    Foundation formwork can be made from different materials.

    Metal


    The most versatile and most expensive formwork option. To assemble the structure, steel sheets 1-2 mm thick are used.

    Metal formwork is perfect for arranging tape and monolithic foundation structures. can be welded directly to the formwork sheets, which will increase the rigidity of the foundation.

    The main advantage of the metal is the simplicity and convenience of its processing - the sheets can be bent without any problems to the required shape of the concrete base.

    The main disadvantage of metal formwork is its very high cost when compared with other existing options.

    Reinforced concrete


    Relatively expensive type of formwork.

    Such formwork is equipped with concrete slabs. Depending on the thickness of the slabs used, when pouring the foundation, it will be possible to somewhat reduce the consumption of concrete mixture, which will save on the construction of the foundation without compromising the strength and other important characteristics of the structure.

    Among the shortcomings, it should be noted the large weight of the plates, which requires the involvement of special equipment for their installation.

    At the same time, if the formwork is made from ready-made slabs and the dimensions of one element are not enough, additional spacers will have to be installed, which will also not have the best effect on the final cost of the structure.

    Styrofoam



    Very good quality and practical. The formwork is assembled from ready-made individual blocks of expanded polystyrene. Formwork elements are extremely easy to install. They can be processed without any problems to the required shape.

    The main disadvantages are the difficulties at the stage of selecting certain structural elements (usually roundings and corners) and the relatively high cost.

    improvised materials


    In the process of arranging the formwork, make sure that its walls are installed exclusively vertically.

    It is important that there are no large gaps in the structure. Seal gaps with suitable improvised materials. In this case, a gap with a width of more than 4-5 mm is considered large - such a gap will be quite enough for the concrete solution to leak.

    Additionally, to prevent small leaks of the solution, you can attach a plastic film to the inner surface of the formwork walls.




    Removable formwork is recommended to be dismantled only after the foundation has gained the necessary strength. On average, it takes 3-5 weeks. The gaps left after the dismantling of the formwork are usually covered with soil. In some situations, they are poured with concrete or cement

    Successful work!

    Prices for different types of building boards

    Building boards

    Video - Do-it-yourself formwork for the foundation