Calculation of the foundation for the house: the load on the foundation and soil. What foundation is needed for a house with an attic? What foundation is needed at home with an attic

More than 4 hundred years have passed since the well-known architect from France, Francois Mansart, proposed using the attic space as a living space. But even today, his invention is in high demand, especially among those people who want to make the most of the available living space without making major changes to the project.

Pros and cons of brick houses

A brick house is a beautiful permanent building that can be used both for summer holidays and for permanent residence. This material provides almost unlimited design, architectural possibilities, is the most durable and versatile, adapts to the needs of the owner.

Brick houses are considered one of the most reliable, but their construction is quite expensive.

Like any other type of building, brick houses have their strengths and weaknesses. The advantages of brick houses include:

1. The ability to keep warm for a long time in severe frosts and keep cool on hot days.
2. High fire safety - a brick building will never ignite like a wooden one.
3. The design is also not afraid of being exposed to snow, hail, rain, sudden temperature fluctuations, and other atmospheric surprises.
4. Versatility in terms of style and architectural solutions.
5. Good environmental friendliness.

A brick house can be decorated in any style - from classic to empire.

Flaws:

1. High-quality brick is expensive, and low-quality brick has low performance.
2. The mass of material is impressive, so under the house you will have to make a reliable, powerful foundation.
3. Brick walls need finishing.

It is better to live in finished buildings permanently, and for temporary residence use wooden or other structures. Read more details about what is better to build a house from.

If you do not want to finish the walls, use facing instead of ordinary brick. This material looks attractive, but also costs decently.

Design

Before you start building, draw up a plan for the future home. At the same time, the attic should be designed strictly in accordance with the current design features of the premises and the layout of engineering systems. The attic window should account for about 1/8 of the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Design two-thirds of the space in the room in such a way that the ceiling height in them is from 2.4 m. See an example of planning and building a house with an attic.

The layout of the building with an attic

When designing a brick house with an attic, consider your financial capabilities. To reduce the cost of the project, attract outside specialists only to perform those types of work that you cannot do yourself.

The attic solves two problems - practical (increases usable living space) and architectural (changes the appearance of the building).

Other features to consider when drafting a project:

1. The point of intersection of the facade and the roof should be at a height of 1.5 m from the floor level.
2. Insulate the roof together with the insulation of other rooms.
3. Immediately consider the location of the heating system - the brick absorbs water, and you must ensure an optimal balance between temperature and humidity.
4. Consider the relief of the site on which you are building - the soils are examined for the degree of freezing, the level of groundwater. If the soils are wet and weak, it will be best to make a pile-screw foundation foundation.
5. When calculating the number of rooms, consider the composition of the family and your love for guests - you need to have enough space for everyone.

A summer brick house can be anything - the main thing is that you feel comfortable in it. A building for year-round use should have insulated floors.

Stages of construction

The first thing you will need to do is decide on the type and quantity of materials. A simple brick is cheaper than a facing brick; from a constructive point of view, it can be hollow and full-bodied. When choosing, pay attention to such indicators as thermal conductivity, frost resistance, strength, water absorption. The amount of material depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future room.

During construction, you can use not individual materials, but their combinations - for example, make a house out of bricks, and an attic out of wood.

Selection and pouring of the foundation

A house starts with a foundation. For brick houses, slab, pile and strip foundations are usually used. Consider their features.

The strip foundation is in high demand in modern construction, as it can withstand significant loads created by concrete structures. It can be built under internal and external walls.

The strip foundation can be deep and shallow - for brick houses, the first solution is usually used.

Types of strip foundations - prefabricated and monolithic, both options are suitable for arranging basements and basements. From a constructive point of view, the monolithic type base under consideration is a single reinforced concrete structure; stone and concrete blocks are used to create prefabricated solutions.

The main advantage of the tape base is the high speed of erection.

Foundation pouring procedure:

1. The site is being prepared - the turf is being cut, marking is being done.
2. A pit or trench is digging - the second option provides for the possibility of arranging a basement or basement, while the first does not. The bottom is leveled, after which, with the help of a theodolite, the angular markings of the depth are checked.
3. The trench or pit is wetted with water, then a sand or gravel fill is created. The optimal thickness of the mixture is 0.2 m, its compaction is carried out using a vibrating plate. When the pillow is rammed, waterproofing is laid, lightweight concrete is poured. They work with prefabricated structures in a similar way, only the pillow is arranged directly under the concrete blocks.
4. Formwork is knocked together from boards up to 5 cm thick, which is then fastened using spacers. The walls of the structure are made vertical.
5. A framework is created from reinforcement. Take the rods with a cross section of up to 1 cm, fasten the required number of segments by welding, then lay the frame in the trench on the supports.
6. Pour concrete into the formwork - the work is carried out in stages and involves a uniform distribution of layers up to 0.2 m in thickness. Laying is carried out in several stages, after each concrete is vibrated.

The foundation will turn out to be strong if a solution of medium consistency is used to create it.

If the soil on the site is crumbling, stop on a pile foundation that normally withstands even very significant loads. Piles provide the most uniform redistribution of loads, while most of them fall on dense soils at a considerable depth. The main disadvantage of this solution is its complexity.

The arrangement of a pile foundation on solid soils saves building materials and reduces the amount of excavated land.

The procedure for arranging a pile foundation is as follows:

1. Prepare the site, as in the previous case, mark the places where you will drill the piles.
2. Drill holes for the piles.
3. Weld the frame from reinforcing bars. The frame above the ground should rise by about 0.3 m.
4. Pour a little gravel and sand on the bottom of the well, lower the frame of rods inside, fill it with solutions. To obtain a monolithic foundation, the concrete will need to be shaken.
5. Weld the frame base for the grillage, tie the frames of the grillage and piles. For the reinforcing base of the structure, assemble the formwork.
6. Pour concrete - optimally in layers, in several stages.

Before starting work, be sure to make markup. This is especially true for uneven areas with complex terrain.

When the foundation dries and gains strength, it remains to waterproof the grillage.

Piles are brought out at a certain distance above the ground, and metal pipes of a given diameter are used to construct the formwork.

The last type of foundation used for the construction of brick houses is slab. It has the appearance of a solid reinforced concrete slab, which is able to normally withstand the loads from the building. Neither vertical nor horizontal movements of the soil affect the integrity and strength of the foundation. The following types are distinguished:

• floating - the sole lies in the ground at a depth of up to 0.5 m;
• not buried - the base is not dug in, but is installed on the surface of the earth;
• deepened - the bottom of such a foundation is located below the level of soil freezing.

The most popular type of slab foundation is shallow.

To create a slab base, you need a lattice or solid slab, which consists of slabs and beams. Work order:

In the first few days, the slab foundation must be watered. Otherwise it may crack

1. Preparation - is carried out in the same way as for other types of bases.
2. Digging the soil to a depth slightly exceeding the thickness of the foundation under construction. Crushed stone or sand is poured into the pit, after which the pillow is leveled and compacted. A layer of lightweight concrete is poured on top.
3. Creation of high-quality hydro- and thermal insulation. Roofing material is laid on concrete, and foam is laid on top of it.
4. Formwork is knocked down along the contour of the base - to create it, it is best to use boards up to 5 cm thick.
5. A frame is made - it is welded from metal rods.
6. Concrete is being poured - one run will be enough. The poured mass is shaken and left to harden.

The slab base is ready.

Walls and floor

Before you start building walls, decide what type of masonry you will use. Most popular options:

1. With metal mesh. The grid is laid every 5-7 rows.
2. Well - masonry with voids that are filled with foam or expanded clay. This approach helps to increase the thermal insulation characteristics of the material.

Methods of laying bricks during the construction of walls - well and with a metal mesh.

First, the material is laid at the corners of the bearing walls. Please note that the appearance of the building and its durability depend on the quality of the installation of the material. When forming corners, it is necessary to lay 5-10 pieces of bricks in height. How correctly you are doing everything can be checked by level and plumb. The more frequently the inspections are carried out, the lower the risks of misalignment.

The scheme of laying the walls of the house

Stages of laying walls:

1. Prepare the cement mortar - this should be done in small portions and prepared as needed.
2. Apply the solution to the desired location and align carefully. Excess is removed with a trowel.
3. Lay the brick on the mortar, to ensure a snug fit of the brick, tap it with a trowel. The ideal row spacing is 12 mm.
4. Narrow the rows when laying - either due to the thickness of the solution, or using pieces of brick.

If you plan to clad the walls with plaster, leave some free space in the seams. In those cases when the work is done immediately with the front brick, the jointing will need to be done neatly and beautifully, immediately filling the entire space.

At the stage of building walls, it is necessary to provide for the presence of door and window openings - for them, voids of the specified parameters are left. When you reach the planned height of the opening, lay the lintels - from wood, reinforced concrete or metal.

In width, it should be the same as the thickness of the wall, and in length 50 cm more than the width of the opening. The ends of wooden jumpers are protected with roofing material and treated with a primer, metal products are treated with anti-corrosion compounds.

The reliability of the attic (and it has to withstand solid wind loads) depends on the quality of the truss system. It is made from bars of considerable length and width. First you will need to lay the Mauerlat - the lower extreme support of the rafters made of logs, timber. The most reliable section is 20 * 20 cm with a distance between the logs of 1 m.

Floors in a brick house are laid:

• on the logs;
• on the ground;
• on floor slabs.

Be sure to take care of high-quality insulation, otherwise in the future you will heat the air. The most popular heat insulators are polystyrene foam, basalt wool, polystyrene foam. For exterior decoration, materials such as lining, exterior plaster, siding (vinyl, metal), natural wood are usually used. Choose the interior decor according to your personal wishes and financial capabilities.

It is best to insulate the walls of a brick house from the outside.

Roof

The process of arranging the roof consists of several stages:

• project development and selection of roofing material;
• installation of a truss system (usually used to create it);
• installation in increments of 80 cm for slate, 35 cm for metal tiles, for a bituminous roof, the crate is made solid;
• waterproofing;
• laying of roofing material, installation of decorative elements;
• vapor barrier and insulation (if necessary).

Mansard roof scheme

To supply water from a source, it is most convenient to use automatic pumping stations.

Water pipes are always laid below the freezing level of the soil and equipped with stopcocks. In unheated rooms and places where water supply enters the house, they must be insulated. Plumbing devices are mounted according to the manufacturer's instructions. A bathroom may consist of a toilet only or a bath and a toilet. Do not forget about the need to create a wastewater treatment system.

Electrician

Installation of wiring in a private brick house begins with preparation - drawing up wiring diagrams, marking, punching work. Immediately decide on the place of entry of wires and cables, the bridge for installing the distribution board.

Then it will be possible to prepare the installation and electrical diagrams, mark the installation locations of electrical appliances, sockets, switches, lamps, junction boxes and other elements of the system. After marking, diagrams of wiring routes are prepared.

Each group or individual outlet needs its own machine with a power corresponding to the wiring section.

All wiring lines for connecting sockets, lighting groups lead to a shield with auto switches. The permissible current for the conductor is determined taking into account its cross section, cooling conditions (closed or open wiring), material. It is necessary to leave free access to the junction boxes - it will allow you to control the state of the connections during their operation.

Video

For more useful information about the technology of building a brick house, see the video

Conclusion

A brick house with an attic is a capital structure that is suitable for year-round use. The reliability of the building depends on the correct choice of foundation, adherence to the technology of laying walls, and the arrangement of high-quality roofing. If you plan to use the attic as a living room, then you need to take care of its insulation and waterproofing. Read more about ways to insulate the attic. Please note that construction work is labor intensive and time consuming.

The article will tell about the foundation of screw piles for a house with an attic.

Now owners are increasingly building houses with an attic. However, the arrangement of the attic floor has nuances.

First, the roof is also the outer wall. Therefore, it is important to think over a competent truss system, take care of the installation of steam, hydro and thermal insulation of the roof.

Secondly, the useful volume and layout of the attic depend on the shape of the pitched roof: the steeper the slope, the larger the area. Areas with the lowest ceiling, as a rule, are simply excluded from the living space.

The approach to designing and constructing the foundation of a house with an attic differs little from the design and construction of foundations for other types of objects.

Determination of the ground conditions of the construction site

The foundation transfers the loads from the building to the foundation of the soils below it. Therefore, in order to design it, it is necessary to have accurate data on the soil conditions in the building spot.

The geology of the site allows:

identify dangerous geological objects and processes (if any) - suffusion, karst, quicksand;

determine the different conditions of soil occurrence, which can occur even within a small area.

This indicates that building without knowing anything about the soils on the site is a dangerous undertaking.

Specific ground conditions are taken into account when assigning the length of the trunk, the distance between the blades, the pitch, the angle of inclination and the configuration (not to be confused with the diameter) of the blades.

The corrosive aggressiveness of soils (CAG) of the construction site affects the designation of the steel grade (more details "") and the wall thickness of the barrel and blade (more details ""). Only the compliance of these parameters with the degree of CAG will make it possible to achieve compliance of the service life of the building with the requirements of regulatory documents (GOST 27751-2014 "Interstate standard. Reliability of building structures and foundations. Basic provisions").

Once the life calculation has been completed, the remaining thickness must be checked against the design loads.

After the piles are driven to the design depth, control measurements of the torque value (VKM) are performed. Although a similar procedure (trial screwing) is often considered as an independent study, this is not entirely correct. The results, firstly, will be strongly dependent on the time of year, and secondly, the method does not allow obtaining any information about the properties of the soil under the pile.

Therefore, the determination of the torque value (which indirectly occurs during test screwing) should only be a confirmation of information about soil conditions, but not a method for determining their bearing capacity.

Collection of loads from the structure

Not only the own weight of the parts of the structure (permanent loads) should be taken into account, but also the impacts from people, furniture, wind, snow (temporary loads), which are often neglected. Only by summing them up, you can get objective information about the loads on the base.

A detailed calculation scheme with examples is contained in the article "" and is suitable, including for determining the bearing capacity of the foundation of screw piles for a house with an attic.

How to arrange piles taking into account the impact on the foundation of different loads

Different parts of the structure transfer loads of different sizes to the foundation:

under the responsible nodes of the structure;

under load-bearing walls;

under non-load-bearing walls, floor joists.

The way the pile will perceive the loads from the structure is influenced by:

soil conditions of the site;

number, diameter and configuration of blades.

The durability of the structure, its compliance with the requirements for rigidity and strength will primarily depend on the wall thickness and diameter of the barrel.

Therefore, piles in the foundation should be placed, as a rule, in the following way:

Such an arrangement will allow to evenly distribute the margin of safety throughout the base, which means it will increase its service life and reliability.

Grillage of a pile-screw foundation for a house with an attic

The foundation for a house with an attic is always calculated individually. So that we can calculate its cost for you, provide data about the object (wall construction, number of storeys, etc.) and geological survey data or sign up for a visit by a geologist.

Foundation depth for a one-story house

Today, do-it-yourself construction of a variety of non-residential buildings, as well as houses, country cottages, has become widespread.

Building a house has some difficulties due to many parameters that must be taken into account even before planning the foundation, how long the house will stand idle depends on them.

The laying of the foundation is the most important part of the construction, and its depth determines the strength of the entire further structure.

For any building, the depth cannot simply be determined by eye, many calculations are needed here, and first of all, you need to pay attention to:

• groundwater flow rate;
• climatic features of the area in which the house will be located;
• depth of soil freezing;
• total building load and building materials;
• selected foundation type.

The first thing you need to know when calculating the depth of the foundation is that it must be laid below the freezing level of the ground so that the foundation does not deteriorate during repeated freezing and thawing.

And also it should be above the level of groundwater flow, which are a strong destructive force for the foundation.

An example of a finished structure for a one-story house without a basement is presented below.

Soil types and varieties

When calculating the depth, you need to immediately find out which of the soils will be under the foundation of your house. They are:

• heaving, that is, clay, loam, sandy loam;
• non-porous: sand, rocks;
• slightly heaving soils - a variety of mixtures.

The most optimal for construction is non-porous soil, as it is durable and can withstand any load. You can see an example of such a soil below.

You can find out such data by contacting specialists by taking a soil sample from the site.

Non-rocky soil

In accordance with the data obtained, the first calculations can be made, following which, the optimal depth for non-rocky soils will be 0.5-1 meter.

For clay soils - 1.2-1.5 meters, for mixed soils - from 0.5 to 1.25 meters, depending on how mobile the soil is and how many percent of the heaving mixture it contains.

Groundwater level determination

In determining the second parameter, you can also turn to specialists or try to find it out yourself with the help of special wells called shufrs.

They are pulled out at the site of the future construction, their minimum depth is 2-2.5 meters.

With the help of such a well, it is possible to determine the depth of soil freezing and the presence or absence of groundwater. An example of such a well is shown in the photo below.

Shufr for determining the type of soil

The terrain of the site for construction is also important, because it is easier to lay the foundation on a flat surface.

If the site is sloping, then it will either need to be leveled as much as possible, or when laying the foundation, take the lowest point as the basis for measuring the depth.

After determining the soil and the absence of a clear presence of groundwater, you can think about the type of future foundation.

It also depends on the type of soil whether lateral strengthening of the walls is necessary so that the foundation does not tilt over time.

Choosing the type of foundation in accordance with the soil

The foundation itself directly depends on what depth is needed for your building and on the type of soil being determined.

If it is not heaving, then you can plan an ordinary strip or column foundation, but if the earth is heaving or slightly heaving, then you will have to make a monolithic slab or pile foundation.

Consider the main types of foundations for a one-story house, taking into account the depth of the foundation:

• A strip foundation, which can be either shallow (for wooden one-story buildings of light weight) or buried. This type is the easiest for an independent device and the cheapest. If you do not need a large depth and the mass of the structure itself is small, then you can choose it.
• Pillars and piles can become a reinforcement of a strip or ordinary foundation, while for a house that is lighter in weight, it is better to use pillars. If brick or stone are used for construction, it is better to drive piles that can withstand heavy loads, distributing all the bearing weight over perimeter and deep into the ground.
• A monolithic slab can be used in case of heaving soils and when detecting groundwater.

This design is the most reliable and will withstand any impact and weight, but it will also be expensive, and it will also be difficult for self-assembly.

An example of such a plate is shown below.

Monolithic slab - base

Foundation depth calculation

When you were finally able to decide on the type of soil and foundation, you can make the final calculation, which will determine the depth of the foundation for a one-story house.

Some try to make the foundation "with a margin", that is, to deepen it more than the required level for reliability.

But this will only be an extra financial cost and time-consuming work, and if all the calculations are made correctly, then no reserve is required.

Any foundation is laid based on the level of ground freezing and is laid 10% lower, that is, if the freezing depth is 1 meter, then it should be laid to a depth of 1.1 meters, this will be enough.

If the climatic conditions in the construction region are moderate and the soils are loose, then it is most appropriate to lay a shallow strip foundation, which is easy to do with your own hands, and it will be durable.

It can be either monolithic with self-poured mortar, or prefabricated with ready-made blocks.

By average standards, such a foundation is laid to a depth of 45 cm to 1 meter. This foundation looks like the one below.

Finished strip foundation

In more severe winter conditions or with heterogeneity of the soil mass, it is better to make a deeper and more reliable foundation, the depth of which can be from 1 meter to 2 meters.

For a one-story house made of ordinary brick, a recessed strip foundation with pillars that will strengthen the entire supporting structure will be quite acceptable.

If the area is swampy or heavily clayey, then you will have to lay a monolithic slab with piles, even if the house structure itself is light.

This will entail considerable financial costs, but you can not worry about the reliability of the design. This foundation can reach a depth of up to 2.5 meters.

The choice of materials for the house, taking into account the depth

The most economical option these days are wooden one-story country houses, in which you can make an attic.

When choosing such materials, the house will be quite light and the chance of destruction of the foundation is minimal, so you can choose a shallow depth and independently lay the foundation for any difficulties.

Such a building looks like the photo below.

Wooden one-story house

One-story houses made of foam blocks are also easy to build and do not require a large laying depth, but must be more expanded, since the wall in such houses should be about 60 cm for heat resistance.

Brick or masonry requires that the laid foundation withstand a large load, so it is advisable to choose both a large laying depth and strengthening with piles.

Such a foundation looks like the image below.

pile foundation

Given all these factors, we can say that the depth of the foundation for a one-story house can be very different, but all of the above factors should be taken into account for the reliability of the structure.

The main reference point remains the depth of soil freezing, which underlies all deepening calculations.

Video calculations of the depth of the foundation of a one-story house

In the next video, experts will tell you what rules must be followed when calculating the depth of the foundation, which will help you correctly determine all the parameters, and you will be able to build your house on your own, which will last a very long time.

Residential buildings with one floor have been popular with craftsmen for many years. They are economical, easy to design and build. To build a foundation for a one-story house, you need almost two times less building materials than for a two-story building.

Types of structures

Before starting construction work, it is necessary to develop project documentation. These are diagrams and drawings that will help you choose the optimal type of carrier base. For a one-story house with your own hands, you can make such a foundation:

1. Monolithic;
2. Columnar;
3. pile;
4. Tape;
5. Column-flight.

Monolithic- This is a type of construction when a large trench is dug under the future house, repeating or slightly exceeding the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building itself. It is compacted with sand or crushed stone pillows, and then poured with cement mortar. Sometimes foam concrete or gas silicate is used, but most often such materials are used in the construction of a country house. Sometimes such a support is built by installing a ready-made monolithic slab of concrete and reinforcement, which significantly reduces the construction time.

Photo - monolithic foundation with a sole

Columnar- a very popular type of foundation, which is considered one of the most economical options. It can be made using flood poles, installing supports made of foam blocks or bricks, and also driving concrete foundations into the ground. It is mainly used for wooden houses, block or residential premises made of timber.

pile- an analogue of the columnar, but it is used on problematic soils. At first glance, the unreliable support system copes well with high loads - on average, up to 18 tons can fall on one pile. The pile structure is used on sands, rocky and clay soils, and with the help of such a system houses are built on swampy soils.

Tape the foundation for a one-story residential building is, in most cases, the ideal solution. Due to the combination of high load-bearing performance and economical consumption of building materials, most home craftsmen choose just such a system for their home. The tape type of the base can also be made of block bricks, aerated concrete, foam concrete, cement mortar and reinforcement bundles.

Photo - strip foundation

Column-tape or tape pile - this is a combined type of supporting structure for a private house. In most cases, it is a simple structure with point supports, which are additionally reinforced with a grillage. But some craftsmen use a more complex system for their buildings. The technology of internal pillars is the principle of building a foundation, when a trench is first dug, which is suitable in depth for the foundation. After that, additional cylindrical pits are dug in it, they, together with the upper trench, are filled with mortar.

Photo - high strip foundation

All types have their advantages and disadvantages, in order to choose the right option - be sure to consult with experts.

Video: foundation on screw piles

Technical specifications

Before starting construction, you need to know what should be the height and depth of the foundation for a one-story house. These dimensions can be calculated, having only the initial data on the planned wall thickness and the material of the buildings as a whole. First, you need to calculate what bearing capacity the soil has in your area.

Photo - shallow foundation

You can find this indicator in the geological bureau of your region. After you need to calculate how much pressure the building exerts on the foundation. To do this, all loads are summed up: ceilings, roofing materials, walls, doors, windows, insulation, etc. The resulting number is multiplied by a conditional coefficient of 1.3 - this is an approximate pressure that will be exerted by furniture and residents. A certain number of tons will come out - this is the mass of the building.

Next, you need to calculate the dimensions of the foundation. Here, each type has its own characteristics. For example, if everything is very simple with pile and columnar (the selected support and the weight of the house is divided by its bearing capacity), then everything is more difficult with tape and monolithic. At the foundation for a one-story house with an attic, the minimum allowable depth is 30 cm for rocky soil, 60 for sand and 85 for loam. Similar indicators for greater reliability can be taken for a monolithic slab, but in this case it will come out very expensive. This is a normally ruined foundation; for a wooden structure or a frame house, you can make it shallow, but its parameters need to be calculated more accurately.

After calculating the depth, you need to decide on the width. The minimum permitted width of the strip foundation is 25 cm, while it is very important that the sole, i.e. the base of the support system, be slightly wider than the upper part. Of course, the thickness of the walls plays a big role here. Masters advise taking a size for the width of the foundation, which is 5-10 cm higher than the thickness of the walls. You can choose the right proportions according to the finished project of the building.

Photo - foundation project for a one-story house

How to build a base

When the width, thickness and height of the foundation for a one-story house are known, you can start building. Consider how to make a tape support system:

1. You need to make a trench that will match (or slightly smaller) the size of the future tape. Its walls must be reinforced with wooden boards - this will protect the system from destruction;
2. Next, install the armature. You can build it with a checkerboard pattern or tie several bundles and fasten them together. It is advisable to mount the rods in the center of the trench;
3. After that, you can proceed to pouring the foundation of the system. It is advisable to do all the work with concrete in one day so that the base hardens evenly;
4. The design will dry from 3 days to a week, depending on weather conditions.

Warming

Many projects imply that it is necessary to insulate the foundation for a one-story house (especially with a brick, foam concrete or high pile foundation). For these purposes, you can use an additional layer of cement mortar (fur coat), or take care of thermal insulation in advance. To do this, before pouring, a waterproofing film is installed on the sand cushion.

Photo - insulated foundation

Regardless of the height of the foundation, it wraps around its entire area. After the structure is poured, and another layer of insulation is installed on top of the finished base. It can be economical foam or more expensive foam concrete. Such a facade device will protect the residential building from heat loss and flooding.

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Dear! Tell me how to properly pour the foundation for a one-story house with an attic 6ch9 in the country

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Nowadays, more and more people are starting to build houses with attics. The attic or attic floor is a room in the attic space, the walls of which are formed by roof surfaces. The Frenchman Francois Mansart was the first to use this design in the distant sixteenth century. Who would have thought that they would become so popular in our time.

A house with an attic has its own characteristics compared to a simple house. The main one is the shape of the roof. For houses with an attic, gable, hipped and hip roofs are mainly used.

What attracts people in houses with attics? Firstly, it's beautiful, and secondly, it's economical, you don't have to build the walls of the second floor. Also, in such rooms there are fewer windows than in ordinary ones and this will reduce your costs.

Such houses can be built from any building materials brick, wood, concrete. Thanks to different materials, a house with an attic can resemble either a castle or a fairy-tale tower.

Any construction begins with the foundation of the building. Let's figure out which foundation for the attic is better.

Foundation for a house with an attic

In the construction of private cottages, foundations of the following types are more often used:

• Tape;
• Columnar;
• pile;
• Slab.

Each of them has both disadvantages and advantages for use as a foundation for a house with an attic.

The strip foundation completely repeats the line of the bearing walls of the building. Such a foundation is made in the form of a concrete strip buried in the ground. These concrete strips are very often laid on so-called concrete pads, thereby achieving greater stability.

The strip foundation is suitable for a house with an attic or a two-story house, as it can withstand heavy loads.

The columnar foundation is used for the construction of light and small buildings and therefore it is not suitable for the construction of houses with an attic.

The pile foundation is mainly used on slopes and in very soft soil. It is a pile installed vertically into the ground. Piles can be made of reinforced concrete, wood and asbestos.

Slab foundation is the most expensive type of foundation. However, it is worth the money spent on it. Such a foundation has special strength, since the load is evenly distributed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe soil.

Foundation for a house with an attic

The foundation for a house with an attic is selected and calculated, taking into account the condition of the soil, the proximity of groundwater, the depth of freezing and the magnitude of the load.

It is best to order a foundation project from a design organization.
Basically we neglect this and follow the advice of builders (it's good if they are professionals) or the experience of neighbors who have recently completed construction.

If the house is not on a slope, a monolithic slab foundation is suitable for any type of soil.

A cheaper option can be a strip foundation, which is a well-reinforced reinforced concrete strip located on a sand bed and following the contours of the building.
Also, the choice of the type of foundation is affected by whether there will be a basement in the house or not.

If you do not plan to make a basement under the house, then a shallow strip foundation will be appropriate. It is performed with monolithic concrete in one day, so that there are no seams, reinforced with 12mm reinforcement.
The sole of the foundation is made of compacted coarse-grained sand.

In view of all of the above, we can conclude that the foundation is one of the most important elements of your home. The strength and durability of your home will mainly depend on it.

On the foundation, it is better not to save money and use the best materials that you can afford. Because any miscalculations and mistakes when laying the foundation can result in serious expenses for their alteration when the house is already built.
As they say, it is better to measure seven times, and cut one.

You can see the main mistakes when laying the foundation in this video:

The construction of any building begins with the calculation and design of the foundation. It is he who is the basis of the foundations, requiring increased attention to itself. Saving on building materials is unacceptable here, because by making a mistake at the beginning of construction, you can completely cross out the further construction of the entire structure. The foundation for the house serves as a support, and therefore must withstand the weight of the entire structure.

On a note: The reliability of the foundation consists of such components as the absence of subsidence, the occurrence of cracks, warping and other types of deformation.

The main types of the foundation of the house

Taking into account the type of the proposed building and the characteristics of the soil, the foundations are divided into:

tape;

There are also subspecies - these are shallow foundations and prefabricated foundations.

Strip foundation

Due to its structure, it is the most common type in modern construction. For its construction, a foundation pit is dug below the freezing mark, after which tapes are laid out along the perimeter, to which the load from the load-bearing walls of the house will be transferred. The belts, in turn, rest on foundation slabs (distributing pads), which makes it possible to distribute the load from the structure over a large part of the soil.

The strip foundation is used for both one-story and two-story houses with or without a basement, regardless of the material from which the walls are made. The tape itself can be prefabricated or monolithic.

In the course of pouring, it is necessary to compact the solution using a deep vibrator or fittings. This will avoid the occurrence of air voids, which significantly reduce the strength characteristics of the foundation. The concrete mortar is poured up to the line of the fishing line previously fixed on the inside of the formwork, after which it is leveled with a trowel. The foundation is given two weeks to harden. In dry sunny weather, its surface needs additional moisture, in rain it should be covered with a film.

Note: After one week, in order to finally expel air bubbles and maximize the shrinkage of the foundation on its surface, it is recommended to lay out 5-6 rows of bricks.

Why do you need plinth cladding?

Modern buildings for the most part have a basement area - a base area protruding above the ground. The appearance of the “raw” basement is not at all pleasing to the eye, in this case, decorative finishing of the foundation of the house with various materials comes to the rescue, the choice of which should also be approached wisely.

So, if there is a basement in the building, the cladding is able to endow the basement area with heat-insulating qualities, allowing you to keep the heat inside the room. In order to avoid the negative impact of moisture on the building, it is recommended to use foam in combination with decorative trim. First, the foam boards are attached to the plinth, after which another coating is applied. The result is a beautiful plinth without the risk of damage, heat leakage and moisture penetration.

The choice of material for cladding

Facade paints and special plasters that prevent the penetration of vapors. They are applied quickly and easily, short-lived. They are the best option for a sinking base.

Brick is a classic durable finish. The disadvantage is the high cost and increased load on the structure. An alternative is clinker tiles, which look like brick, but are much lighter in weight.

- the most common finish. When choosing a material, you should take only one that is intended for cladding basement areas. Freely skips couples.

Natural stone is the most durable of all the solutions presented. Gives the building a monumental and presentable appearance. It has a high cost, it is possible to replace it with an artificial analogue.

Other materials - mosaic plaster, PVC panels, polymer and sand tiles, and many others. The choice of materials depends entirely on the taste preferences of the owner of the house, the main thing is that they differ in quality and durability.

Video on studying the construction of a foundation for a house:

When choosing a standard number of storeys, it is necessary to take into account the budget for construction, operation, the presence of a basement, basement level in the project, geological features of the soil, terrain, and other factors. In practice, any existing options are used from slabs to pillars, but in each case there are nuances.

Slab base of a brick building

slab brick house foundation has the following characteristics:

• budget - below average, lack of special equipment, minimum amount of earthworks
• construction time - 7 - 5 days
• design features - the removed fertile layer of the earth is replaced with non-metallic compacted material, if necessary, the sole is insulated (Swedish plate option), engineering systems are carried out, after laying two grids of reinforcement, a plate is poured
• number of storeys – no restrictions, basement/basement level not possible
• specifics of erection, operation - in large-sized projects, it is necessary to install transverse formwork for expansion, expansion, technological joints, to increase the bearing capacity on difficult soils, the slab is reinforced with piles, the Swedish slab is a ready-made warm floor on the ground

There is no plinth in buildings on a monolithic slab; a high-quality blind area with a storm drain integrated into it (storm water inlets + surface trays) is required. This is necessary to protect the load-bearing walls from moisture. Plates are not afraid of movements from the forces of frost heaving, evenly distribute loads, have a 100 - 70 year resource.

The communications embedded in them have zero maintainability, therefore they are often duplicated. After the pipeline of the engineering system is clogged, the user transfers the sewer riser, water supply to the backup entrance.

floating plate

The classic floating plate technology is available for DIY. To build a slab base, it is enough to follow the sequence of actions:

A monolithic slab is a ready-made floor on the ground, if you grind it with a special tool after gaining 50% strength, it is enough to revet it with a floor covering, significantly reducing the finishing budget.

buried slab

The monolithic foundation slab buried below the freezing mark has the maximum construction budget. With external similarity to the strip foundation basement screed, it has a serious advantage: the maximum bearing area for transferring prefabricated building loads to the ground. Basement walls here are not the foundation, they have a much larger resource.

For the manufacture of recessed slabs, the following technology is used:

• excavation of soil from the pit with its removal from the object
• sand and gravel pad + drainage system
• concrete preparation + waterproofing with film, roll material
• reinforcement in two layers 16 - 12 mm with bars of periodic section
• pouring into formwork, concrete care

In this option, the slab is below the freezing mark, the building has a basement, communications are brought inside the dwelling through the walls of the lower level. Input nodes are highly maintainable, the owner receives additional space, each m 2 costs a third of the cost of the first floor.

The technology is similar to a floating stove, supplemented with a layer of insulation, underfloor heating communications. The Swedish plate is poured with stiffening ribs created due to an unequal layer of heat insulator under its sole. Communications are carried out to the building in front of the hydro-thermal insulation of the sole, drains are laid along the perimeter.

The contours of the water-heated floor are laid between the grids of armored belts or on top of them, embedded in the slab, and cannot be repaired. With the cost of an additional ¼ of the foundation budget for the purchase of extruded polystyrene foam, the developer receives savings:

• lower energy consumption due to additional heating
• finished floor screed on the ground at the finishing stage

An underground floor cannot be made with this technology. The design resource is 70 - 50 years.

Monolithic column-grillage foundation

Of all the existing technologies for grillage on pillars for masonry walls, the only option is suitable - monolithic. It has the following characteristics:

The pillars have a small bearing surface, they are buried slightly, they are poured with a grillage in several stages. The base resource is lower than other existing analogues, therefore this option is used extremely rarely even with a limited construction budget.

Strip foundation

Due to the variety of tape bases, each technology has differences. The general characteristics of strip foundations are:

• budget - medium for MZLF, high for buried tape, involvement of special equipment
• construction time - 30 - 15 days
• construction - excavation of soil from trenches, reinforcement, formwork installation, pouring, waterproofing, insulation of the outer perimeter, drainage, blind area, storm water
• number of storeys - no restrictions
• nuances of construction, operation - floors on the ground, floor slabs, beams, the tape is the walls of the basement

Strip foundations are used for brick housing boxes in 75% of cases. To reduce the budget, MZLF is usually used, the sole of which lies at a depth of 0.7 - 0.4 m. Deep-laid tapes (below the freezing mark) are an ideal warrant for projects with an underground floor, reducing the construction budget by a third.

In contrast to the buried strip base, the MZLF uses original technologies for compensating heaving forces:

The combination of these methods (it is desirable to use all) allows you to deepen the MZLF by 0.7 - 0.4 m without reducing the resource, the stability of the foundation geometry. The tape can be poured into the formwork, laid out from rubble, concrete blocks, FBS, bricks, reinforced if necessary with bored, screw piles.

Buried strip foundation

When choosing a tape buried below the freezing mark as a foundation, it becomes possible to manufacture a basement / basement level. To do this, it is enough to waterproof the outer walls of the tape, paste over them with polystyrene foam.

This foundation is more expensive than all existing foundations, with the exception of slab deep foundations. It is suitable for any soil, GWL levels, but is not suitable for difficult terrain (mountainous, swampy terrain, coastal zone).

Monolithic grillage on piles

A brick cottage can be supported on piles by tying their heads with a monolithic grillage. The technology is outwardly similar to the columnar foundation, but has differences:

• construction budget - minimal, no rental of special equipment
• construction time - 5 - 3 days
• constructive scheme - screwing in screw piles or filling holes drilled in the ground with concrete, installation of formwork for a hanging or ground grillage, reinforcement, pouring, waterproofing of reinforced concrete elements, making a fence
• number of floors - floor with an attic maximum
• the specifics of construction, accommodation - the minimum consumption of materials, the introduction of engineering systems at the foundation stage, the need to insulate the floor of the lower floor along the beams

Unlike columnar foundations, piles are guaranteed to pass the upper horizons of groundwater, the freezing mark. They rest on a layer with a bearing capacity, experience little effort from the tangential forces of the MP.

An individual developer is able to both drill wells for bored piles and manually screw in screw products without the involvement of special equipment.

Concrete work is necessary only during the construction of the grillage, so the time spent waiting for strength gain is sharply reduced.

Bored piles

The classic grillage technology for bored piles looks like this:

• drilling of wells - below the freezing mark to the bearing layer
• formwork installation - polyethylene pipes or roofing material rolled into a cylinder
• installation of reinforcement - vertical bars connected by horizontal jumpers (ring, triangle)
• pouring - filling the formwork with concrete with vibro-compacting the mixture
• grillage formwork - on the ground or hanging type on props
• reinforcement - two horizontal belts connected with pile reinforcement
• pouring - with vibrocompaction of concrete, care for it within 5 - 3 days

The finished structure is able to withstand the loads of a one-story brick house with an attic.

Screw piles

Unlike bored modifications, screw piles are immersed in the ground by rotation. For this, the muscular strength of workers rotating the body of the SHS with levers (crowbars, pipes), special equipment, a household electric drill with a gearbox (torque amplifier) ​​can be used. After each pile reaches a layer with a bearing capacity, the pipes sticking out of the ground are cut at a general level, tied with a monolithic grillage in the formwork.

The disadvantage of the technology is the need for a decorative pick-up. It is made by masonry in half a brick or a frame system (basement siding on a galvanized profile). Communications must be brought into the building before installation of the subfloor.

The choice of any of the considered technologies should be economically justified. At the design stage, it is necessary to clarify the prices of building materials in the region, delivery services. Only in this case it is possible to reduce the construction budget without reducing the resource of the building.