What to do if the earth is like plasticine. How to make the soil loose

Ecology of consumption. Homestead: Fertile soil is so easy to make that it's hard to believe, so we're still looking for magic fertilizer...

Now for most people, fertile soil is a utopia. A purely consumer approach to growing plants destroys the fertile soil layer. Most agronomists think that fertile soil is soil of a certain chemical composition. Such an idea is fundamentally wrong, and it is precisely this that leads to the destruction of the soil.

Everyone knows that the fertile layer near the soil is relatively small, and is located on the surface of the earth. If you dig a two-meter hole in the ground, you can see with the naked eye that there is no fertile soil at its bottom, although if we assume that soil fertility is determined by its chemical composition, then at such a depth, on the contrary, it should be more fertile, because plants don't get there.

Also, everyone knows that for the normal development of plants, the soil in which they grow must be loose. Here, AGRONOMS AGAIN TAKE US IN THE WRONG and said that for this we need to dig it up regularly. Digging up the soil, we first make earth out of it, then sand and, finally, dust. And then we breathe it all in.

Another mistake is how do we plant plants. Different plants consume and produce different micronutrients. If different plants grow mixed in the garden, then they work for each other and practically do not require care. And if the entire garden is filled with plants of the same species, then they begin to fight among themselves for a place under the sun. As a result, we get diseased plants from a lack of trace elements. We are trying to cure them with chemistry, again on the advice of agronomists, and we enter into a vicious circle.

So, should we all go beat the agronomists for giving us false information? You can of course go, but it will not solve the problem. A more reasonable action is to figure out for yourself what determines the fertility of the soil. It's worth it - if we manage to copy the behavior of Nature- because now only she makes the soil fertile, then you will no longer need to bend your back in the garden - everything will grow there by itself. Tempting? Go ahead.

FERTILITY SOIL IS A LIVING ORGANISM and not just a collection of chemical elements. The fact that it contains many trace elements is a side effect of its "aliveness". In order to increase the fertility of the soil, it is necessary to increase its "vitality", and the necessary microelements come to the living soil themselves. Can't believe it? There is no mysticism here, but only the exact laws of Nature.

Firstly, fertile soil is not earth. The earth is an integral part of it, but it is only a frame on which a fertile layer is formed.

Let's figure it out first, how to loosen soil. It's simple - you need to plant annual plants with long roots in it several times in a row. When their long roots die, there will be passages due to which the soil will be loose.

Now let's figure it out where to get trace elements that plants need. There are no problems here either. you just need not to leave the beds bare under the scorching sun. Partially weed out the weeds, and partially left, and throw the weeded weeds right here in the garden. Plus, plant plants mixed with each other, and not in separate beds.

The last problem is where to get water. You might be surprised, but there is no problem here either. You just need to overlay the seedlings of our plants with a fifteen-centimeter layer of straw, foliage or needles. This layer is called MULCH.

Most people who use mulch think that it only retains moisture. In fact, it also produces moisture. At the top and bottom of the mulch, the air temperature is different, due to this difference, dew falls on the mulch, which is so necessary for plants.

Dew falls not only in the mulch, but also in the passages left by the roots of old plants, i.e. Annual plants with long roots have a double benefit.

That's the whole technique of soil fertility. As you can see, THERE IS NOTHING COMPLICATED HERE. Fertile soil is so easy to make that it is very hard to believe in this simplicity, so we are still looking for a magical fertilizer that will make our soil fertile. But the truth is that there is no such fertilizer and cannot be. published

Not every summer resident can boast of rich harvests. Indeed, in addition to regular care, it is important to plant plants in fertile and breathable soil. And to achieve such a state of the soil, you need to make a lot of effort. You will learn how to make the land in the countryside fertile and loose, from this material.

Composition check

Before choosing a way to make the earth loose and fertile, it is important to know the initial state of the soil. Of course, it is better to examine the soil in an agro-laboratory, where a complete analysis will be carried out. But, alas, for most summer residents, such testing is not available.

Do not be upset, because the mechanical composition of the soil, which is responsible for the amount of moisture and air in the soil, can be found out on your own. To do this, moisten the ground with water and try to roll a "sausage" out of it. Deciphering the results:

• If the "dough" is not kneaded and falls apart, then your soil is sandy, that is, too light.
• If you managed to make a "sausage", but it breaks, then you have a light loam - the best type of soil.
• If you rolled the "sausage" into a ring, then you have heavy clay soil.

It is enough for owners of light loams to fertilize the site to get a good harvest. The owners of sites with heavy clay soil will have to correct its composition, because plants take root poorly in such soil and it is difficult for their roots to develop. But too light soil - sandy loam, has a bad effect on the crop. In such soil, moisture and minerals are quickly washed out, so crops require more care.

We change the mechanical composition of the soil

First, let's figure out how to make the earth loose if it is too clayey. In this case, river sand in the amount of 21 kg per square meter will help you. Approximately this is 1.5 buckets with a volume of 10 liters. Spread the sand evenly over the surface of the soil, then dig the area to a depth of 20–25 cm, or a full bayonet of a shovel. If you want to fix the sandy loam, then add clay to it. In addition, use black soil or humus for these purposes.

Even if you have corrected the mechanical composition of the soil, it has not become more fertile, because it is still necessary to add top dressing to the ground. You will learn how to do this below.

We fertilize with manure

The introduction of animal waste into the soil is an effective way to make the land on the site fertile and loose. After all, such "products" contain a full range of vitamins and nutrients necessary for plant growth. Moreover, pig, horse or cow manure can be used as a fertilizer.

Remember that fresh manure is quite aggressive and dangerous for plants. Therefore, apply this product at least 6 months before planting. For example, in the fall after digging, but only on an empty plot. During this time, the aggressiveness of the manure will decrease, while all the nutrients will dissolve in the soil. In addition, the product will serve as an excellent baking powder.

If the manure is overripe, then it can be applied during spring planting. Fertilizer rate:

• Fresh horse - 5-6 kg, rotted - 2.5-3 kg per 1 sq. m landing.
• Fresh cow - 4-5 kg, rotted - 2-2.5 kg per 1 sq. m landing.

In no case do not make fresh pig manure even during autumn planting. Such a product contains a large amount of nitrogen in the ammonia form. Therefore, keep it for at least a year until it completely rots. Also, try to mix this fertilizer with cow or horse manure.

Humus

Applying fertilizer made from rotted manure and peat is the best way to make the land fertile and loose. Moreover, such a composition is suitable for continuous application and point application. And if you add nitrogen and phosphate fertilizers to it, you will significantly increase its effectiveness.

The main thing is to properly prepare the humus. To do this, put fresh manure and peat in layers in a compost bin in a ratio of 1 to 1. The thickness of each layer should reach 25-30 cm. To reduce the acidity of fertilizers, add phosphorite or lime flour to them. Moisturize the pile as needed without letting it dry out. Withstand humus from 6 months to 1 year.

How to fertilize the soil with a composition? Apply 20 kg of humus per 10 sq. m plot. Fertilize in clay soil to a depth of 15–20 cm. If you have sandy soil, then dig in the composition by 30 cm.

Mulching with cut grass

A similar method of how to make the earth fertile and soft is quite effective. Besides, it's safe. True, the effect of mulching the soil with grass comes a little later than from fertilizing with manure. But at the same time, the layer perfectly retains moisture in the soil, moreover, it makes the earth loose and soft and protects plants from pests and diseases.

How to mulch the surface? Spread the cut grass on the plot in a layer of 7–8 cm. For 20 square meters of planting, you will need 1 standard bale of straw.

Owners of light loams and sandy loams can resort to such fertilizers at any time of the year. If you have heavy clay soil, then mulch the surface from the beginning of June. Otherwise, the soil will not warm up and will not dry out in early spring. Leave the cut grass until the next season, and after a few years the clay will gradually turn into loose and light loam.

Siderates - summer resident's assistants

If you are looking for a way to make the land fertile without manure, then pay attention to useful plants, such as:

• lupine;
• peas;
• alfalfa;
• legumes;
• oats.

The roots of these plants contain nodule bacteria that can draw and fix nitrogen from the air. Therefore, thanks to the sowing of green manure, the soil is naturally filled with nutrients and useful substances. In addition, crops have a powerful root system, which loosens the soil, making it more breathable. And this is very useful for peaty or clay soil.

Green manure

It is not necessary to buy expensive top dressings to make the soil fertile and light. After all, you can prepare an effective fertilizer yourself. Moreover, any plant material that you find on the site is suitable for its creation. And this is mowed grass, withered leaves and flowers, shoots left after pruning trees, and even weeded weeds. The main thing is that plant residues are not diseased, affected by pests or treated with herbicides.

How to prepare fertilizer:

1. Fill the barrel with chopped plant parts to 2/3 of the volume.
2. Fill the mass with water to the top and cover with a film. At the same time, make 2-3 holes in it for gas exchange.
3. Leave the fertilizer for 7-10 days, remembering to stir daily.

Strain the resulting solution and dilute with water in a ratio of 1 to 10. After that, water the beds. This fertilizer is good because it is instantly absorbed by plants, in addition, it reduces the acidity of the soil and protects the roots of crops from pests and diseases.

Influence the acidity of the soil

According to the reaction, the soil is alkaline, acidic and neutral. Moreover, the latter option is most preferable for plants. And worst of all, cultures take root on acidic soil. How to fix this situation? Add calcium to the soil:

• dolomite flour;
• slaked lime.

The amount of such fertilizers depends on the level of acidity. To find out, buy a special device that shows the pH level. With strong acidity (less than 3.5), add 300 g of the substance per 1 sq. m, medium (3.6-4.3) - 200 g, weak (4.4-4.9) - 100 g.

Now you know how to make the land on the plot soft, loose and fertile. Apply these simple rules, and a good harvest is guaranteed.

Along with the introduction of a large amount of organic fertilizers, compost, green manure, it is important to add soil baking powder to it. It can be either one component or several at the same time, depending on the condition of the soil and its type. The following baking powders are known: perlite, vermiculite, sand, expanded clay, helium balls, peat, Christmas tree needles, pine bark, etc.

The plants that live in our gardens are not native representatives of its biota. Vegetable, flower, coniferous representatives of the flora are always imported by us to summer cottages from outside, so that plants with different requirements for growing conditions cannot appear on it on their own. But I really want the cottage to be buried in the luxurious greenery of gardens, coniferous trees, ornamental, overseas plants and flowers, and not overgrown with dull, but native sparse vegetation, more characteristic of meadows.

It is good at the same time if the land is rich in nutrients, fertile, well structured and aerated, and even fully meets the requirements of a particular culture. But this is now such a rarity! In connection with our anthropogenic activities, every year we ourselves destroy the structure of the soil. What to do? How to correct the situation and return the structure? It can be either one component or several at the same time, depending on the condition of the soil and its type.

Important functions of baking powder

Firstly, baking powder is a source of air for the soil (aerator). Due to their heterogeneous structure, they are able to form small air cavities in the soil, filled with oxygen, carbon, nitrogen, which is so necessary for plant roots for full growth and development. In addition, thanks to the introduced loosening components, the soil crust ceases to form on the surface, the earth does not become heavier, does not cake, does not press under its own weight even after watering.

Secondly, baking powder softens the temperature fluctuations of the environment. The roots are comfortable in it even on cool nights, this is especially important for seedlings in the spring, when sudden temperature changes are inevitable. This protects the roots from stressful situations and, as a result, from the possibility of easily becoming infected with mycotoxins of fungal and bacterial diseases. But not all types of baking powder can provide temperature equilibrium in the soil. For these purposes, it is better not to use the following baking powder: coarse sand, fine gravel, brick chips. They have a property: at night they are very cool, and during the day, on the contrary, they heat up so that they can burn the roots and even cause death to the plant.

Thirdly, baking powder disinfects the soil. Thanks to the first two qualities, they inhibit the development of pathological flora in it, protecting plants from infection. In addition, some leavening agents, such as coal, moss, algae, also have antiseptic properties.

What type of baking powder should be applied

The need to introduce a certain type of baking powder is determined by the type of soil itself: sandy, loamy, clayey, podzolic, sod-podzolic, chernozem, as well as its pH level. So high-moor peat has a low acidity (3.0-4.5), which most cultivated plants do not like, and grassroots, on the contrary, has a normal pH level (6.0-7.0).

Most summer residents prefer the soil of the following composition, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1, respectively:

• baking powder (perlite, sand, vermiculite);
• humus, compost;
• the earth itself.

Baking powders for improving the properties of sandy soil - in the ratio 2:1:2, respectively:

• litter, grass, compost;
• soddy land (since autumn interbedded with manure), which allows the sand to retain moisture and enriches it with nutrients, due to the applied fertilizers.

Baking powders for improving clay soil, in a ratio of 2:2:2, respectively:

• manure;
• sand.

Baking powders that improve very heavy soils (clay, podzolic, sod-podzolic) are best applied in autumn for digging, in the ratio, respectively: ½: ¼: ½: 3: 1:

• straw, finely chopped twigs;
• crushed brick;
• bark;
• manure.

The introduction of all these components for several years in a row is able to restore the structure of the soil. Identifying well-prepared soil is easy. To do this, you need to squeeze a small lump of slightly moistened soil in your hands:

• if the earth sticks together in someone - bad;
• if it crumbles like sand and becomes dusty, it’s bad;
• if the structural components of the soil remain on the hand in the form of small soft lumps - fine, this is a highly structured soil.

Soil disintegrators for seedlings

So, the earth should be light, crumbly, aerated, well-drained and structured due to properly arranged soil fractions. One of the main components that are perfectly suited for this role is baking powder. Consider baking powder separately:

Perlite

Represents baking powder from a natural material of volcanic origin ("volcanic glass"). It contains oxides of magnesium, calcium, aluminum, sodium, iron, and other elements vital for plants.

An excellent soil conditioner. It surpasses vermiculite in its loosening properties. However, in some ways it is inferior to the latter. Disadvantages of perlite:

• very expensive;
• special storage conditions are necessary so that the material does not turn into dust;
• does not have a very high absorbency;
• when working with it, be sure to use a respirator and gloves.

Vermiculite

We can say that this is the most effective baking powder, giving odds to other baking powder. It is a layered mineral formation, hydromica.

Excellent soil improver. Advantages over others:

• loosens the compacted earth;
• perfectly aerates the soil, structuring it;
• rich in mineral elements: iron, potassium, calcium, silicon, magnesium, etc.
• very moisture-absorbing - quickly absorbs moisture during irrigation, subsequently slowly giving it to the roots, thereby making the soil moisture-intensive;
• provides thermal balance, accumulating heat during the day and giving it away at night.

Sand

The most economical baking powder in financial terms. Use only coarse river sand.

Sandy soil is also a source of minerals. It makes the soil porous, aerated, reduces soil caking, prevents the formation of a crust on the surface of clay soils, the earth becomes loose. Minus: not moisture-absorbing, not able to retain moisture in the ground.

Expanded clay

A material obtained by firing clay. Very light and relatively cheap. Will loosen any soil. Like sand, it is not hygroscopic.

Peat

High-moor peat has a light reddish, brownish hue and an acidic pH. It can only be used to increase the acidity of alkalized, chalky soils. The microelement composition is very poor. Grassroots - black or very dark. It is very rich in trace elements, organic substances. It is always included in the purchased universal primers.

helium balloons

Very beautiful, transparent, different shades. As such, they do not loosen. They are used mainly for flat crops and seedlings.

Improve soil properties, healing the root system of plants. Hygroscopic: when watering, they swell, then gradually give off moisture, decrease, thereby moving soil particles, which manifests their loosening ability. Able to grow up to 10 times its original size. They swell very slowly, so you need to saturate them with moisture in advance, at least 10 hours before use, just by filling them with water.

Christmas needles

Can be dialed in pine. You can make them only in the fall under a shovel, or when preparing land for flowers. It should be borne in mind that they have an acidic environment (pH 4.5-5.5), due to which they increase the acidity of the soil. You can only apply for crops that prefer such acidity (conifers, thyme, blueberries, etc.). Application together with dolomite flour and nitrogen fertilizers can perfectly loosen even slightly acidic soils. It is possible to add them only as a component, not exceeding 10-20% of the loosened soil.

If you have clay soil on the site, and you are asking what to do, then this article is for you and after reading it you will not have to climb the forums and ask experienced gardeners what to do.

Definition of clay soil

The soil is considered clay if 80% of its composition is clay and 20% is sand. Clay, in turn, consists of particles that are tightly adjacent to one another. Accordingly, because of this, problems arise, since air and water do not pass well through such a surface. The absence of air in it slows down the necessary biological processes.

How to determine the type of soil (video)

Soils, which consist mainly of clay, are very inconvenient, since their structure is not ideal. They are very crowded and heavy, as the clay itself is poorly drained.

Clay soil freezes quickly and heats up for a long time, despite the fact that nutrients are in greater quantities than light soils. The processing of clay is very difficult, and plant roots do not penetrate well into such a surface. After the snow melts, rains or watering, the water stays at the top for a long time and very slowly passes into the lower layers.

Clay soil retains moisture for a long time

Accordingly, stagnation of water occurs here, which in turn contributes to the displacement of air from the layers of the earth, and the soil turns sour. When the water in the earth is high, then, in principle, the same processes occur with it. In the case when heavy rains pass, the clay swims, a crust forms on top of the soil, with which nothing good happens - it dries up, hardens and bursts. And if then it rains rarely, the earth hardens so much that it is very difficult to dig it up. The crusts that form on top of the soil do not allow air to penetrate, which dries it even more. Processing is even more difficult and lumps are formed during digging.

Clay soil often contains little humus, and it is located mainly 10-15 cm from the surface. But even this is more of a disadvantage than an advantage, since such soil has an acidic reaction that plants do not tolerate well.

But, fortunately, all these disadvantages can be corrected in a few seasons. This, of course, is not about “transforming” heavy soil into light soil. Also, the owner will need some effort and a lot of material costs. These works may take several years.

It does not matter for which types of crops you want to improve the soil - in a garden plot or any other, the principles of operation are almost the same everywhere.

First, plan the plane on your site so that it is as even as possible, otherwise water will stagnate there. The borders on the bed should be directed so that it ensures the removal of excess water.

Before winter, it is necessary to dig up the clay soil, but in such a way as not to break the lumps. It is advisable to do this before the autumn rains come, otherwise the soil will compact even more. In winter, due to water and frost, the structure of the lumps will be better. Thanks to this, the drying and warming of the soil will accelerate in the spring. In the spring, the soil needs to be dug up again.

When cultivating such soils and increasing plowed layers, it is forbidden to turn up most of the podzol. The depth should increase to a maximum of two centimeters, while fertilizers and various lime materials should be thrown in.

In the case when the soil is very dense, which is difficult even to dig up, the addition of crushed bricks, hay, chopped brushwood or bark is allowed. But if you don't have bricks, you can add burnt weeds. They are burned with roots and unshaken earth, and then added to our soil.

Improvement of clay soil with fertilizers

Be that as it may, all of the above works well, but the main method for improving clay soil is the addition of fertilizers. It can be manure or different types of peat or compost.

Peat

At first, it is recommended to add manure or peat at least 1-2 buckets per square meter. Make the cultivated soil layer no more than 12 cm, because this contributes to the qualitative development of minerals. Thanks to this, beneficial soil microorganisms and earthworms develop well there. As a result, the soil will become loose, its structure improves, and air penetrates there better. All this contributes to the good life of the vegetation.

humus for fertilizer

The manure that will be added to the soil must be well rotted, otherwise it will be harmful to the roots. Use manure that decomposes quickly - horse or sheep.

Peat must be well weathered. If the color of the peat is rusty, then it is better not to add it. This indicates a high iron content, which can harm vegetation.

sawdust

If you have wood chips that have been sitting for a long time, then this can also give a good result. However, you should add no more than 1 bucket per square meter. But this can reduce the fertility of the soil. This is due to the fact that when the sawdust decomposes, they take on the soil nitrogen. This can be prevented if, before adding to the soil, a solution of urea is made, the concentration of which with water should be 1.5%. You can also use sawdust that was spread under cattle and wetted with their urine.

sawdust as fertilizer

Sand and humus

There is also another method - during autumn digging, add river sand to clay soil. Although it is not easy, it gives a good effect. But you need to know the correct proportions, since each type of crop grown requires a different soil composition.

Sand for fertilizing clay soil

In soils such as fine loam, vegetables and many flowers grow well. To achieve this composition, add one bucket of sand per square meter.

Half a bucket needs to be added if you want to plant cabbage, beets, apple, plum, cherry, or some flower crops such as peonies or roses. They love heavy soils.

It is necessary to add sand and humus to the clay soil regularly - at least every year for years. This is all because the plants will take the humus, and the sand will settle, and the soil will again become unfavorable.

As practice shows, after five years of such work, the soil from clay will become loamy. The thickness of the layer will be about 18 cm.

Fertilizer from green crops

A good effect is produced by annual green crops, which are used as fertilizer.

They are sown, usually after harvesting vegetables or potatoes, and in the same season they are dug up for the winter. In August, you can also sow winter rye and dig it up in the spring. Such crops have a positive effect on the soil, and it is enriched organically. But the main thing is that this is how clay soil loosens.

Creating Loose Soil

If there is very little organic matter in the soil, a good solution would be to sow perennial clover. It is regularly mowed without collecting grass. Clover roots die off over time and have a beneficial effect on the soil. After three years, clover is better to dig up to a depth of 12 cm.

Earthworms also loosen the ground well, so it is advisable to populate them there. If you have empty areas left, you can plant them with ground covers. They do not allow the earth to dry out, overheat and increase the level of organic matter.

Soil liming

If you have heard of such a method as liming the soil, then this is done only in autumn. This is done infrequently - once every 5 years. Lime deoxidizes the soil and thus has a beneficial effect on it. Calcium, in turn, increases the fertility of the soil, as it allows water to penetrate deep into the clay. Basically, this method, like most others, loosens heavy soil well.

But the question arises, in what dosages to add alkaline materials? It depends on how much calcium is in the ground, what level of acidity and mechanical composition. In autumn, you can fertilize with ground limestone, slaked lime, dolomite flour, chalk, cement dust, wood and peat ash.

Enrichment with lime has a beneficial effect on both heavy and light soils. Heavy ones turn into looser ones, and light ones, on the contrary, are connected. Also, the action of microorganism is enhanced, which better absorbs nitrogen and humus, which improves the nutritional value of plants.

Clay soil can produce crops, but it takes work

To find out what kind of soil you have, conduct a simple experiment - Squeeze a handful of earth in your hand and moisten it with water. Knead the earth until it reminds you of dough. Try to make a “donut” with a diameter of 5 cm from this handful. In the case when it is cracked, then you have loamy soil, if there are no cracks, you have clay soil. Accordingly, it must be put in order.

Every gardener and gardener dreams of fertile soil, on which you can set up a garden, and beds, and a flower bed. But over time, the fertile soil layer becomes thinner, it is inhabited by diseases and pests. How to fix the situation, read our material.

The soil shows its fatigue in different ways. It can turn to dust, become covered with moss, or even rust. But every problem has its own solutions. The main thing is not to wait until your yields become equal to the planting material spent.

Problem 1. The thickness of the fertile layer has decreased

If you have been growing plants with a shallow root system in the same place for a long time and saving on top dressing, then there is nothing surprising in the thinning of the fertile layer. After all, your green pets probably used all the nutrients for growth and development, and you did not apply enough fertilizers that would normalize the situation.

What to do?

Try to add compost to the soil (3 buckets per 1 sq.m.) for digging. This organic fertilizer can significantly improve the quality of "tired" land, providing the plants with the necessary trace elements.

Another great way is green fertilizers (green manure). They can be sown between the main crops or on vacant plots after the crop has already been harvested. It is best to select green manure according to the needs of the plants that you plan to plant in this area. For example, lupine will be a good predecessor for tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, eggplant or zucchini. Mustard will help fight the nematode and prepare the soil for planting potatoes or winter crops. It is good to sow rapeseed before carrots or beets, as it will serve as additional protection against viral and bacterial rot.

And the most suitable siderates for improving "tired" soil are, perhaps, legumes (peas, beans, alfalfa). Nodule bacteria on their roots enrich the soil with nitrogen. And perennial legumes with a powerful root system also extract useful substances from the deep layers of the soil to the surface.

If you do not plan to harvest legumes, but decide to use them as green manure, do not mow the plants before flowering, since the nodules on their roots form during this period.

And don't forget crop rotation. After all, as you know, different plants get nutrients from different soil layers. Therefore, if the top layer has become thin and has lost fertility, plant plants with a powerful root system.

Problem 2. The soil crumbles like dust

Let's say you are a conservative to the marrow and prefer to plant traditional vegetables (like cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage or zucchini) in the beds, which require a lot of nutrients. At the same time, you avoid fertilizers, believing that the crop should be environmentally friendly, forget about mulching, because your grandparents did not do that. But do not mind how to dig up the soil and pump up muscles at the same time. And therefore it is not surprising that the once fertile land in your garden in a few years begins to absorb moisture poorly and scatters under the gusts of wind.

What to do?

You can, of course, replace the top layer of soil, but this is quite an expensive pleasure.

Try starting with fertilizer. Add 2-3 buckets of compost per 1 sq.m, planting it to a depth of 10 cm. This will make the soil heavier and at the same time make it more nutritious.

Pay attention to the type of soil in your area. After all, some types of soil, for example, sandy, dry out quickly, almost without retaining moisture, and therefore require special care. It is not recommended to dig them more than once a year.

So that the soil does not dust, mulch it with improvised materials, for example, young grass, straw, compost, sawdust, bark, freshly cut weeds. Mulch will not only protect the soil from further erosion. Decaying, it will work as an organic fertilizer, gradually giving useful substances to the crop.

Be careful when mulching the soil with fresh organic matter. In large quantities, it can kill your green pets.

Problem 3. The soil has become too dense

Hard, wet ground that is difficult to stick a shovel into can be the result of improper care. For example, if deep digging of clay soils, in which heavy loam is on the surface, occurs in rainy weather, then a water- and moisture-impermeable crust can form on top of the earth.

What to do?

Sometimes similar is treated with similar, therefore, before the onset of cold weather, the soil can be slightly dug to a depth of 10 cm. Experienced gardeners believe that if you just dig, but do not break or turn over clods of earth, then during the winter they will freeze properly and become loose.

If there is clay on the surface of the soil, you can add sand for digging (1 bucket per 1 sq.m).

It is also worth attracting earthworms to the site. You can, of course, dig them up from a neighbor. But if the earthworms are uncomfortable, they are unlikely to linger in your beds.

These invertebrates love decaying organic matter. Therefore, it would be useful to mulch the soil around the plants, for example, with rotted compost.

You can feed green pets with dandelion infusion, which will also attract earthworms. To do this, 1 kg of shoots and roots of dandelions must be poured with 10 liters of water, and after two weeks, strain and dilute with water 1:10.

Problem 4. The soil is acidic

Often the acidity of the soil changes simply as a result of watering. If the water is soft, the acidity of the soil, as a rule, increases, and if it is hard, it decreases. Also, the level of acidity is affected by the plants grown and the fertilizers applied.

What to do?

In this case, liming the soil helps.

There are a number of plants that do not develop very well on freshly limed soil, so it is advisable to normalize the acidity at least a year before planting them. These capricious crops include:

• beans,
• peas,
• carrot,
• tomatoes,
• cucumbers,
• pumpkin,
• swede,
• parsley,
• celery.

Problem 5. There is a lot of alkali in the soil

Alkaline soils are not very common. Sometimes an increased alkali content is a consequence of improper agricultural practices. This happens, for example, if you are too carried away, deoxidizing the soil.

Soils with a pH above 7.5 prevent iron uptake by plants. As a result, your green pets develop worse, which is usually easy to see by yellowing leaves.

What to do?

You can acidify the soil by mulching with high-moor peat, needles or bark of coniferous trees.

Mulching also prevents moisture evaporation, weed germination and wind erosion of the soil. This is best done in the spring or fall after weed removal, fertilization and surface loosening.

It is impossible to mulch the soil before the plants sown in open ground sprout.

Problem 6. The soil is saline

As the proverb says, "It's better to be undersalted than oversalted." If whitish salt marks appeared on the soil, most often this indicates improper fertilizing of plants with mineral fertilizers.

What to do?

Salt is known to dissolve in water. After harvesting, try watering the soil generously several times. There should be plenty of water - up to 15 liters per 1 sq.m, but it is important not to overdo it so that your site does not turn into a dirty puddle.

As soon as the salt goes into the lower layers, mulch the soil with peat.

Problem 7. The soil is infected with harmful insects and diseases

Insects, bacteria and harmful fungi do not sleep in the summer, populating the site at an accelerated pace. And they doze in winter - including in the soil, so that next season they will again start the battle for the harvest with you.

What to do?

The easiest way to deal with insects wintering on the site is to treat the soil with insecticides. Since most of the potential threats are hiding in the ground in the form of eggs and larvae of pests, in the store you need to pay special attention to larvicides that destroy larvae and caterpillars, as well as ovicides that affect eggs of insects and mites.

Mechanical methods of struggle will not be superfluous either. For example, if you dig up the soil in the beds in late autumn (without breaking lumps), pest larvae will become prey for birds. And some insects simply will not be able to burrow into the ground again and overwinter.

Experienced gardeners believe that if you spill the soil with a solution of an EM preparation when loosening, this will help weaken harmful bacteria.

It is also important to remove fallen leaves, as pest larvae often hibernate under it.

In order to cope with diseases, there are also a number of drugs. For example, Alirin B is a useful soil microflora designed to suppress fungal diseases. The drug is compatible with many insecticides, biologics, plant growth regulators and fungicides.

Problem 8. The soil is covered with red bloom

"Rust" can not only metals, but also the soil, and even plants.

If you use hard water with a lot of iron for irrigation, then sometimes it appears on the surface of the soil and between the veins of plants. However, a fungus can also be the cause of the appearance of a red plaque on your beds.

What to do?

Usually in such cases, soil free from plants is spilled with boiling water. If this does not help, in the fall you can also use Fitosporin-M (according to the instructions) or its analogue, which also inhibits the action of pathogenic fungi.

Do not dissolve biopreparations in tap water, as the chlorine contained in it will kill beneficial bacteria. It is best to use melted or rain water.

In the future, it is important to water your green pets only with settled or soft rainwater.

Problem 9. The soil is covered with moss

Moss can appear in the garden, flowerbed and even on the lawn. Most often, the reason for this is increased humidity, excessive shading, as well as dense or acidic soil.

What to do?

How to deal with the last two problems, we told a little higher. And in order to normalize soil moisture, you can dig shallow drainage channels around the perimeter of the site, into which excess water will drain.

It is also important to consider that moss, like any weed, first of all captures free areas. So if vegetables do not want to grow under the shade of a branched tree, plant plants there that tolerate shade well, for example, forget-me-not, fern or hydrangea.

Usually in the beds, moss is removed mechanically. And if he tries to take over your lawn, slowly but surely displacing the grass, you can use ferrous sulfate (90 ml per 20 liters of water). With this amount of solution, 300 square meters of area can be treated.

If your dacha is a place to relax, and not for hard work in the beds, try moving moss from the category of enemies to allies. Moss gardens are extremely popular in landscape design today. So if you are not ready to say goodbye to an old tree that is shading a large area, and do not want to dig up the soil while contaminating it with herbicides, just show a little imagination. And moss will certainly give your garden paths, as well as rockeries, a unique flavor of antiquity and tranquility.

The earth is not at all a dead substance that exists on its own. Each handful of it is filled with many living organisms that directly affect the harvest. If you properly care for the soil from the very beginning, make the necessary fertilizing, observe crop rotation, then you will not need our advice on how to restore soil fertility.