Ventilation systems for the house. Ventilation systems in a private house - how to do it right

When building your own home, everything needs to be thought out at the design stage. It depends on how deeply and correctly the communications in the house, including ventilation, are thought out, how comfortable the inhabitants will feel in it. If the moment of designing ventilation in the house is missed, then this work can be done after. But there will be no guarantee that it will turn out exactly what you want. Yes, and doing alterations is a rather troublesome and costly task. If the ventilation system of the dwelling is provided even in the process of laying it, then it will be really easy and comfortable to breathe in it, and most importantly - to breathe environmentally friendly air. How to make ventilation in a private house? There are several options to choose from:

• the most common natural ventilation;
• progressive-exhaust, in other words, forced ventilation;
• combination of two types of ventilation (mixed type).

You can choose the ventilation system depending on the natural and environmental conditions. If around the forest, lake and air is unspeakably fresh, then, of course, there is nothing to think about, natural ventilation is installed. If the site for the house is located near some enterprises and its environmental friendliness is in great doubt, then, of course, we install forced ventilation with the arrangement of filters. A good owner, starting any work, advocates primarily for an economical, but high-quality result. Let's look at the factors that affect this result. In order to ensure effective ventilation, you should pay attention to:

• cleanliness of the surrounding air;
• building material used to build a home.

Houses built from the following materials are suitable for the installation of natural exhaust: timber, brick, adobe, gas block, foam block and expanded clay block. Forced ventilation should be planned for houses made of sandwich panels, frame models and expanded polystyrene concrete.

What is air circulation

Air circulation consists of:

• air inflow - air entering through open windows and doors;
• air flow - air moves through the dwelling;
• air extraction - air outlet through the ventilation openings.

In order for unhindered air circulation to occur, it is necessary to properly mount the doors and windows of the dwelling. Doors should contain a small grill, or installation should be done so that there is a gap of about two centimeters at the bottom. Without such holes, air circulation will not occur. The room for the air exhaust device is usually chosen the most unclaimed.

Characteristics of types of ventilation

To fully determine the choice of the type of ventilation, consider what their essence is:

natural ventilation

Natural ventilation can be different, the similarity is in one thing - it happens in a natural way.

• Infiltration. This process of air ventilation occurs as a result of air entering through the non-hermetic parts of windows and doors. When using wooden doors that have a high air throughput (10-20 kg/hour per square meter). This type of natural ventilation will suit a house with an area of ​​​​100 m 2 to 140 m 2.
• Airing. Such a process consists in the independent entry of air into the windows and doorways. But its disadvantage lies in the fact that heat is lost during the ventilation process. The time of complete filling of the dwelling with fresh air is from 30 minutes to 1.5 hours, taking into account the area of ​​the dwelling. If airing is carried out in winter, then during the ventilation period the window frame and adjacent parts of the room are cooled. As a result of this cooling, fogging and condensation occur. If you ventilate by opening the windows to the full, then the circulation of fresh air occurs in 8 minutes. And if you also open the door, then in 4 minutes.

  Important! But do not forget about drafts, they are very dangerous to health.

• Ventilation process with exhaust valves for windows and walls. When replacing wooden windows with metal-plastic, the ingress of air into the room completely stops. Given this fact, it is best to look at the windows that will have ventilation holes. If the windows did not work out, then you can make a ventilation hole in the wall. It is a pipe with a diametrical section of 100 mm, which is mounted through the wall. Outside and inside closed with a special mesh.

Important! It is best to mount such ventilation holes immediately behind the battery so that the incoming air has time to warm up.

Forced ventilation

When wall valves do not cope with the ventilation process, they install a forced ventilation system. This system includes ventilation equipment: filters, air valves, fan, devices for heating air and absorbing noise. It is also necessary to stock up on air ducts and various items that help in the distribution of air: grilles, diffusers. Don't forget about the air intake grille.

Exhaust ventilation

For the installation of exhaust air purification, special channels are designed. Usually they are made of brick, so you should first think carefully about the scheme. Sometimes such a system is mounted in the form of additional shafts. They run along the walls of the house. So, exhaust ventilation can be performed in the following options:

• build ventilation shafts in the wall;
• make exhaust ducts in the manner of shafts adjacent to the wall;
• install ventilation shafts in the form of hanging boxes;
• bring exhaust shafts to the roof.

Exhaust ventilation can be natural and mechanical. Natural type hoods are arranged if the intake of clean air is small. In this case, the exit from the ventilation shafts is closed with a conventional grate. Otherwise, equip the hood of a mechanical type. For this, special ventilation devices are installed at the exits of the ventilation shafts. They are of different types. Their wide range allows you to choose a fan for every taste.

What are air ducts

When installing various types of ventilation hoods, appropriate air ducts are used. Most often these are air ducts with a round diametrical section. Since the inside of such outlets is ideally smooth, the air passes through it without encountering much resistance.

If rectangular ducts are used, then the resistance is higher, but it is easier to install. Often, ventilation hood shafts have certain bends, then it is better to use flexible ducts. They are used if it is necessary to connect two parts of the ducts.

At the junctions, the air resistance is much higher than at other places. Therefore, you should try to make such connections to a minimum.

Ventilation hoods with recuperation

The recuperation process is the heating of the incoming air flows by the air at the ventilation outlet. In other words, the opposite flows exchange heat. This operation allows you to significantly save on heating outdoor air. But in cold weather, the heat of the output stream is not enough to heat the incoming stream, then you have to use a heater. With such a ventilation system, the exhaust can only be forced. For installation of a system with recuperation, a separate place should be allocated, for example, in the basement.

Ventilation Planning Steps

Whatever the house, and the type of ventilation, when planning installation, certain rules should be followed:

• First you need to correctly calculate the volume of air exchange. This is the determination of the amount of incoming air that meets all sanitary and environmental standards.
• Calculation of the dimensions of the duct section.
• The right choice of type of ventilation hood. To do this, you should take into account all the features discussed above.
• Introduction of a plan-scheme of exhaust ducts into the project of a private house. If the circuit is drawn up correctly, then it will fully ensure good work.
• Determination of a place in the house for the installation of a ventilation system.
• Choosing a place for air intake and its exit.
• Direct mounting of the ventilation system.

Calculate ventilation correctly

When calculating ventilation, attention should be paid to the main factors:

• How many people will live in the house.
• Directly the size of the house.
• How much air can fit in the rooms of the house.

Be sure to take into account the work of technical appliances, electricity, hob. All this absorbs oxygen. We also pay attention to which rooms require the cleanest air. Various methods can be used for these calculations. Some of them require the presence of professionals to compile tables and charts. You can refer to building codes, SNiPAs, GOSTs, etc. In everyday construction, calculations are most often performed on the value of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, sanitary standards and multiplicity.

• The easiest way is to calculate taking into account the area. This method is used for the size of air exchange in a dwelling. According to the standards, three cubic meters should be supplied per square meter per hour of incoming air. The calculation process takes place according to the formula: you should multiply the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house by the amount of air according to the norm.
• We calculate using the air exchange rate. This calculation is a little more complicated and uses several indicators. Usually this calculation is performed with the help of a specialist. The multiplicity is a value that shows how many times in one hour a complete replacement of air occurs. The standards for this value vary for certain types of premises.
• Calculation taking into account sanitary standards. In this case, the calculations are carried out taking into account the norm of the amount of air per person living in the room. For each room, the norms are different (for the bedroom, for the kitchen, for the dining room, etc.). As a result, all data norms are added up and get the total volume of air intake.​

We install the exhaust system in the house

We begin installation with the main ventilation shaft. The best place to place it is the wall that runs through the center of the house. With this placement, it is easier to attach pipes that act as an air duct from each living room of the house. When planning and installing hoods, horizontal bends should be made as little as possible, as this weakens the draft. As a result, ventilation efficiency is significantly reduced. All branches are eventually connected to a common pipe, which provides an outlet for air. Usually it is located on the roof.

We provide typical dimensions of the hood:

• The rectangular section of the exhaust shaft in the wall is 13 × 13 cm.
• The width of the wall that contains the exhaust shaft is 38 cm.
• The exhaust shaft for a heating boiler or fireplace is 13 × 26 cm.
• The diameter section of the pipes used for ventilation is 10-12 cm.
• The exhaust pipe on the roof must be higher than the level of the ridge, and the thickness of its walls must be at least two and a half bricks.

If the wall is made thinner, then the air at the outlet will cool very quickly and return back. And if there is not enough height, then the traction process will be disrupted.

In addition, be sure to take care of the air flow. If doors and windows are tightly closed and air flow cannot be carried out, then the ventilation system will not be able to work effectively. Therefore, you should take care that there is a gap of about two centimeters wide between the doors and the floor.

So, to ensure the proper operation of the ventilation system, many nuances should be taken into account and special attention should be paid to its layout. Only in this case it is possible to ensure fresh air in the house and comfortable living in it.

Air circulation, when organizing a natural ventilation system, occurs due to the pressure difference in the ventilation shaft, due to which there is a draft that pushes the internal air out.

The efficiency of room ventilation, with this type of ventilation device, is influenced by the following factors:

• The pressure value at the outer and inner cut of the ventilation pipe. The traction power increases with the height of the exhaust duct.
• The temperature value outside the room and inside where the ventilation is located. The cooled air is heavier, so it pushes the light air in the room from below. As a result, the used air from the inside rushes into the duct.
• Condensation level in the room. Vapors are lighter than cool air, and therefore, at a stable temperature, they rise and exit through the ducts.

In addition to these main factors, the ability of the system to cope with maintaining a comfortable microclimate in the building is also affected by readings of atmospheric pressure, humidity and temperature.

With the similarity of the temperature inside and outside, the draft deteriorates noticeably, and excessive heating of the air masses outside can lead to reverse thrust. In such a situation, only a high-altitude ventilation duct can save the situation.

The device of natural ventilation in a wooden house, in structures built of brick or aerated concrete, and in multi-storey buildings can significantly save estimates, while the efficiency of air exchange does not suffer from this.

Outlet air ducts and shafts in all structures are arranged exclusively in partitions or taken out. For outdoor placement, you will have to spend money on additional pipe insulation.

Advantages and disadvantages of natural ventilation

In housing construction, natural-type ventilation devices are mounted taking into account the requirements of SNIP and the principles of modern eco-design. Despite compliance with regulations, such devices have both positive and negative properties.

The positives include:

• low cost of organizing natural ventilation;
• infrequent maintenance work to support the system is normal;
• unlike forced systems, there is no noise;
• installation of ventilation devices does not cause complications even for beginners;
• in order to build a ventilation duct, it will take very little time;
• no additional costs are required to support the functionality of the system;
• the service life of the system is not limited;
• natural ventilation is not an object of increased danger and does not cause emergency situations;
• these systems can be combined with forced ventilation.

The negative points include:

• these systems are not able to regulate the exhaust flow rate: with high humidity in the room, this feature causes the appearance of fungus or mold foci;
• poorly protected air inlets do not retain dust, tiny insects and plant seeds, as a result of which more effort has to be expended to maintain order in the room;
• the installation of protective nets disrupts the normal air circulation and cannot be a solution to this problem;
• in winter, when the premises are naturally ventilated, serious heat losses occur;
• dependence of the efficiency of the hood on the street temperature and wind strength.

How to Calculate System Performance

• Room area.
• The rate of complete exchange of air in the room in one hour.
• Standards for providing fresh air according to SANPIN per person (for normal living conditions, 30 m 3 / hour is taken into account).

The main condition for effective air circulation in the room is the equality of the volume of inflow and exhaust.

A step-by-step calculation algorithm will help determine the required air volume for further selection of suitable equipment:

1. To get the total volume of air in the house, you need to add up the volume of all rooms. Focusing on the norms of air consumption in various rooms of the dwelling and the indicators of the volume of these rooms, one should derive the average indicator of the multiplicity of a complete air exchange.
2. Multiplying the resulting multiplicity by the total volume, we get the volume that is necessary for the intake and removal of air per hour.
3. Based on this indicator, the number and power of devices providing inflow and exhaust parameters are calculated. When calculating, it is necessary to be guided by the instructions and technical characteristics of the devices used and the type of exhaust duct.

This calculation does not take into account changes in traction power in different climatic conditions. To obtain more accurate data, more complex calculations will have to be made.

The organization of natural ventilation in a frame house differs from the equipment of buildings made of logs or timber. In log houses, the level of natural inflow is higher than in frame houses (due to the uneven shrinkage and the presence of gaps). Accordingly, in order to normalize the inflow in frame structures, it will be necessary to additionally use mechanical devices.

Norms of natural ventilation

Modern SNIPs regulate the norms of ventilation of residential premises based on the value of the total air exchange in the building, and is measured in the number of times or cubic meters per hour.

The norms for one-story residential buildings are:

• residential premises of permanent residence - 1 full exchange per hour;
• kitchen - from 60 m 3 / hour (hood);
• bathroom - at least 25 3 / hour (hood);
• other premises - 0.2 full exchange per hour.

In addition to these standards, the value of outdoor air consumption per person should be taken into account. This figure is 30 3 /hour.

The norms of natural ventilation in a multi-storey building take into account the presence of additional premises:

• laundry - 90 3 / hour;
• gym - 80 3 / hour;
• dressing room - 0.2 full exchange per hour;
• gas boiler rooms - 1 full exchange per hour + 100 3 / hour.

There are special requirements and standards for ventilation equipment in basements, technical floors and attics.

Components of natural ventilation technology

Before you make natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands, you need to determine the characteristics and number of supply and exhaust elements, understand the method and places for the correct installation of these devices.

The natural ventilation system is constructed from vertical exhaust pipes (can be internal or external), devices that provide the inflow of outside air and horizontal exchange air ducts.

For the correct installation of devices, the calculation of ventilation rates must be carried out for each room in the building.

Supply valves

Inlet valves are used to ensure the supply of outside air into the room. The choice of design of supply equipment depends on the needs of the room. The number of devices and their performance is determined on the basis of calculations.

The placement of devices that provide inflow is recommended to be performed at a height of 1800-2000 mm from the floor. When installing the equipment, it is necessary to provide for a slight inclination of the valve inside the wall. The outer end of the valve must be lower than the inner end. This arrangement will protect the room from the ingress of rain inside.

Optimum position of the inlet valve.

Exhaust channels

As air ducts in individual buildings, special hollow cinder blocks or plastic pipes are used. To regulate the process of removing exhaust air, the following devices are used:

• Adjustable louvres, allowing to reduce or increase the area of ​​the exhaust window;
• Deflectors. This device, installed at the top of the ventilation duct, allows you to increase the traction power;
• Traction boosters. It has a more complex, umbrella design, but performs the same function as the deflector.

Deflector.

ventilation ducts

Ventilation ducts are arranged to remove used air from rooms with high humidity or special-purpose rooms. Several ventilation ducts are combined in one outlet shaft.

Ventilation ducts are located on the inner walls. When laying channels, unhindered passage of building structures (ceilings, rafters) should be provided so as not to disturb the verticality of the duct.

When equipping natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands, it is advisable to take into account the features of a comfortable air exchange device for buildings under construction and existing buildings.

On the design of natural ventilation in a house under construction

The main principle of drawing up a natural ventilation scheme in a private house during the construction process is the location of the mines. They are arranged exclusively in internal partitions to ensure that the main part of the pipe is kept warm. This principle makes it possible to obtain sufficient exhaust power, especially at negative outdoor air temperatures.

For the equipment of exhaust shafts, it is recommended to use rectangular elements. They can significantly save the interior space of the house, but if there is free space, you can install round pipes that create a more intense flow.

Plumbing plastic pipes are used as pipes for the air duct, because. when using corrugated products, there are weak, but perceived by human hearing, noises.

When removing ventilation pipes through an unheated attic floor to the roof, it is recommended to take care of additional insulation of the air duct in this room.

When installing the exhaust pipe, it is recommended to maintain verticality, if this condition cannot be maintained, bypass slopes should be made with a deviation angle not exceeding 30 degrees. Each transition with an offset from the main vertical axis takes about 10% of the power.

You should carefully consider the docking nodes of the duct. Inaccurate articulation of individual elements, foreign objects, roughness - complicate the process of efficient operation of the hood.

The higher the duct pipe, the more efficient the extraction process. The removal of the ventilation fungus is recommended to be installed 500 mm above the roof ridge.

Recommended height of ventilation ducts above the roof.

For the modernization of ventilation in an already built house

To increase the traction power and provide additional protection against the penetration of insects and dust into the structure, it is desirable to install a deflector at the end of the duct. This device helps to increase power by 20%.

The deflector on the exhaust pipe.

In rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to install exhaust fans. This measure turns the natural system into a combined one, but at the same time, the dependence on weather conditions disappears. In addition, the installed devices will balance the humidity and temperature conditions in these places and prevent materials from rotting.

When a building is equipped with plastic windows and in frosty weather, ventilation is rarely carried out, in order to save heat, the efficiency of air mass circulation drops sharply. In such a situation, it is recommended to equip the windows with special ventilation valves, which make it possible to organize the flow of outside air, and at the same time arbitrarily regulate the flow.

Vent valve in the window.

Each room in country buildings or a country house has features that must be taken into account when installing ventilation devices.

in the bathroom

For a toilet and a bathroom in a suburban building, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of micro-ventilation through windows or doors.

In the bath

When equipping ventilation in the bath, it is necessary to place the supply channel at the installation site of the furnace. Outdoor air penetrates from below, gradually displacing warm air to the ceiling, heating itself. The exhaust valve in the steam room is installed under the ceiling.

I open the valves if necessary to quickly dry the steam room or washing room.

In the boiler room

If a country house is heated by gas, it must provide a separate room for placing equipment. A gas boiler is an object of increased danger, therefore, the requirements for equipping a boiler hood are quite serious.

The ventilation of the boiler room is mounted separately and does not cut into a common exhaust pipe; most often, an external pipe is used to get rid of smoke and gas.

Supply air devices are used to deliver outside air to boiler rooms. The weak point of the natural type supply and exhaust system in boiler rooms is the dependence on wind power. In quiet, calm weather, it is impossible to provide good traction.

Turning the ventilation ducts reduces efficiency by 10%.

In living rooms

To ensure efficient air circulation between individual rooms in the house, it is necessary to arrange small holes or gaps between the door leaf and the floor in the lower part of the door panels.

In the kitchen

When installing an exhaust ventilation grille above the stove, it is necessary to place this device at a distance of 2 meters from the floor. This position of the hood allows you to effectively remove excess heat, soot and odors, preventing them from spreading around the room.

Related videos

The secret dream of many of our compatriots is a beautiful country house. Professionals know that at the design stage it is necessary to provide for every little thing, especially communication solutions for future construction. And few people know how to make ventilation in a private house in such a way that it is comfortable to live in it at any time of the year.

A well-organized system of inflow and removal of air masses in a living space is able to provide:

• additional protection of premises from fungal and mold spores, dampness;
• circulation of oxygen in every room;
• comfortable conditions for work and leisure at home.

Show all

What rooms need ventilation

Without access to clean air, the human body is not able to function normally. In a residential building, it is necessary to ensure the flow of oxygen primarily in the nursery, bedroom and living room. Don't forget the kitchen and bathroom. In these small rooms, a high concentration of humidity is often recorded, as well as characteristic odors (mostly not very pleasant), which need to be removed to the external environment.

note! A well-implemented ventilation device in a private house eliminates the likelihood of dirt, dust accumulation, condensation, stuffiness, and also prevents mold and harmful microorganisms from spreading throughout the housing.



Features of the implementation of the air exchange system

Traditionally, experts distinguish two types of implementation of the air exchange system in residential buildings:

• natural;
• mechanical (forced);
• mixed (the first type is supplemented by a forced draft device).

On the technical side of the issue, the ventilation system for the home is classified into the following categories:

• functional purpose;
• the method of moving air masses (channel, non-channel);
• a device that moves air.

But how not to make a mistake in choosing? What ventilation of the cottage provides comfortable conditions for those who live in it? Note that each option has both obvious "pluses" and obvious "minuses". For a better understanding of the problematics of the issue, it is necessary to dwell on them in more detail.



Natural ventilation of a residential building is due to the difference in pressure inside and outside the building. The whole process is based on physical laws and does not require human intervention. Its essence is as follows:

1. 1. Since the air temperature indoors is higher than outside, the air becomes light. Due to this, through the ventilation duct, it moves to the street.
2. 2. A partially rarefied mass is formed inside the room, which contributes to the influx of fresh oxygen through small holes located in the structure of the object.
3. 3. The received masses are heavier in their structure. They are located in the lower part of the premises, so floor ventilation in a private house is so important and is an integral part of the air exchange system.

note! With increasing temperature, the exchange through the wall is faster, especially if supplemented by wind.

Modern residential buildings are practically devoid of cracks and small holes, so the natural one, as a rule, does not work in a private house. The inflow is possible only through small valves built into the walls and windows.

System advantages:

• Absence of emergencies. Constructive simplicity excludes the slightest breakdowns or malfunctions.
• Profitability. Ventilation in a country house is carried out automatically, additional equipment (and with it financial costs) is not required.
• Flexibility. The device is easily complemented by air conditioners and filtration solutions.
• Noiselessness.

Natural ventilation in a private house

The natural ventilation system of a private house is not able to provide forced air flow, which at times increases the risk of fungi, mold, and unpleasant odors. Such "neighbors" not only destroy the building, but also harm people's health. It is not surprising that in the 21st century they are practically not used. Forced ventilation of the cottage is much more efficient.



Forced ventilation system

Photo of forced ventilation

A mechanical system by means of which air masses are artificially set in motion - due to pressure devices (compressors, pumps, fans). Such ventilation in a cottage is much more preferable. Forced organization of air exchange has the following advantages:

1. 1. Oxygen can be pre-moistened, heated, which creates a comfortable environment.
2. 2. The ventilation of a country house is autonomous and does not depend on the environment in any way.

As for the shortcomings, they are obvious:

• organization of such a system requires additional equipment, implementation at the design stage, electricity costs;
• regular service during operation.

Mechanical ventilation in a private house can be implemented in several ways. Specialists distinguish the following types:

• exhaust - the "old" air is removed from the room by appropriate mechanical solutions;
• supply - a private house is saturated with air from the street forcibly;
• supply and exhaust - the supply and removal of air masses is carried out mechanically.

Ventilation of a private house. Forced ventilation (general overview).

If we are talking about a fairly large brick house or cottage, it is advisable to dwell on the mixed type option. Its main advantage is the excellent combination of forced and natural systems.

Competent organization of ventilation in suburban housing

So, how to properly ventilate the house and is it possible to do all the activities yourself? Proper organization of the air exchange process will improve the microclimate in the living space, as well as keep all structures intact. Regardless of the room, the ventilation device in a private house with their own hands is implemented in several stages:

• determine the volume of clean air required to ensure compliance with accepted sanitary standards;
• calculate the diameter and section size for the duct system - this value will determine the atmosphere in the living space;
• choose the optimal ventilation scheme in a private house (carefully weighing all the advantages and disadvantages of each of them);
• prepare a plan for air channels (a competent approach will ensure efficient work);
• determine where ventilation will be installed in a private house;
• the next step is to mount zones for the inflow and removal of air masses;
• build the system itself for multi-apartment residential space.

Deciding on the optimal system

Photo of a typical project

Professionals focus on the fact that in a private house it is customary to start at the stage of preparing documentation for future housing. A qualitative criterion for any modern project is the availability of all communications necessary for a comfortable life for people. And in this context, the presence of fresh air is an important component of the harmonization of the surrounding space.

note! Important is not only the ventilation itself in the house, but also the speed of movement of oxygen itself.

Many owners of cottages do not perform any preliminary calculations, but equip their homes with powerful mechanical systems. In this case, fans can forcefully cool the interior. Experts emphasize that the hood in a private house should be natural if there is no need for additional air exchange. In view of its naturalness, it guarantees a natural humidity regime for everyone who is within the boundaries of the living space.

Proper ventilation in a private house with your own hands is created on the basis of a given rate of air volumetric velocity. If we are talking about a mechanical solution, the corresponding value can vary between 3 and 5 m 3 /h. The natural system provides a run up to 1 m 3 / hour. The difficulty lies in the fact that if housing has basements, then a forced system cannot be dispensed with.

note ! To pass 300 m 3 / hour of fresh air, a channel with dimensions of 250x400 mm is required, which corresponds to the standard d 350 mm. However, if you equip a mechanical system, you can stop at a channel 160x200 mm or d 200 mm.

The video below provides information on how the ventilation system in a country house is arranged:

Ventilation in a private house: calculated data

Ventilation of a private house is based on careful calculations. The determining factors in this approach are:

• object area;
• the number of permanent residents;
• air volume in each room.

Advice! Professionals strongly recommend taking into account all household appliances and technical equipment operating in living rooms, as they actively absorb clean air..

Installation of ventilation in the cottage is possible only if all the above factors are taken into account. For a competent calculation, you should use special tabular data and charts. The easiest way to equip the hood in a private house with your own hands is to make calculations by taking into account the area of ​​​​a particular object.

This method is most often used for residential type objects. In accordance with the norms for such premises, at least 3 m 3 / hour of clean air should fall on each "square" and this is without taking into account people. To calculate this value, it is necessary to produce the air norm per area of ​​the object.

Example ! How to make a hood in a private house with an area of ​​​​90 "squares"? The value of the intensity of air exchange is set according to the following formula: 90x3 = 270 m 3 / hour. For living space, this will be enough.

Ventilation duct and its cross section

Having calculated the optimal level of oxygen exchange, they select the best ventilation scheme in a private house for do-it-yourself implementation, and count the ventilation ducts. Regardless of where the installation of such a system is planned, in the subfloor or in the ceiling zone, there are only 2 types of air ducts with a rigid structure - round and rectangular.

Provide an average air exchange rate of 5 m / s, if we talk about branches - no more than 3 m / s. In a natural system, the indicated value does not exceed 1 m/s.

You can read about the pros and cons of plastic pipes for ventilation in the article: Plastic pipes for ventilation

To organize effective ventilation in a private house with your own hands, you need to determine the optimal section of the channel. To do this, use a special diagram, which takes into account the flow of air masses and the speed of their passage. Before you make ventilation in the house, carry out installation activities, please note that the standard value of air exchange is 360 m 3 / hour for forced-type systems. Therefore, the optimal value for air ducts will be d200 mm or 160 x 200 mm.

Rectangular plastic ducts in the video below

Ventilation in the house, plastic air ducts - installation and installation

Thinking about how to make ventilation at home, many of our compatriots forget that metal-plastic windows are installed in their homes, whose design is absolutely tight. In this case, care should be taken that inlet valves are present in the frame of metal-plastic solutions, through which air masses are supplied to the interior space.

note! If there is no specified hole in the windows, it can be done in the wall. We are talking about a standard pipe, which has a round shape, which is placed in the hole made. On both sides, it is covered with protective metal gratings with a small cross section.

Ventilation of the basement of a private house is carried out in a similar way. It is enough to follow simple recommendations and create a favorable microclimate within the living space will not be difficult. In such a room, each person will feel as comfortable as possible.

We believe that FORUMHOUSE users will agree with the statement that a competent approach to the ventilation system is as follows - first of all, it is necessary to calculate the air exchange, then, based on these data, select the required section of the air ducts. And only after that it is possible to draw up a scheme for the ventilation of the cottage, and determine the installation location of ventilation equipment.

Types and features

According to the user our portal (nickname on the forumpetrovk, Moscow) ventilation in the house can be divided into three types:

• natural;
• Supply, or as it is also called, mechanical;
• Air handling unit with heat recovery.

petrovk:

– When designing a ventilation system, the following principle should be followed – the air in the house should be completely updated in 1 hour. For my frame house of 200 m2, I settled on a flow and exhaust unit with heat recovery. The installation is selected based on the number of air cubes in the house, I have 600, I took the installation for 700 cubes.

It should be remembered that a comfortable environment in the house is created not only due to the intake of fresh air, but also due to the speed of air flow. Supply and exhaust ventilation, due to the presence of a fan in it, creates a greater air flow than natural ventilation.

When mechanical ventilation is operating, the air velocity in the ventilation system is on average 3-5 m3/hour, and with natural ventilation it is about 1 m3/hour. Let's try to figure out whether natural ventilation creates a more comfortable environment in the house. This question is not as simple as it seems. Indeed, in order to pass the same volume of air through a mechanical and natural ventilation system, a different section of the ventilation duct is required. This means that the installation of natural ventilation will entail an increase in the cross section of the channel, which is far from always possible from a technical or aesthetic point of view.

With any type of ventilation - whether it is natural or mechanical, it is necessary to ensure the unhindered movement of air throughout the house.

One option is to install doors with overflow grating in the rooms or leave a small gap between the door and the floor. For the proper organization of air flow, it is necessary that the air intake be carried out in the cleanest room, living room or bedroom, and the output should be carried out in the kitchen or in the bathroom.

In the kitchen, above the stove, the hood should go in a separate channel. If the hood is forced, then the kitchen and bathroom can be combined with one ventilation duct. The diameter from inlet to outlet should not decrease. Due to the specifics of the kitchen hood, the air duct from it is always made round, galvanized and vertical, without knees. Do not use corrugated, aluminum or plastic air duct.

Our Forum AdvisorElena Gorbunova(nickname on the forum Matilda ):

– Natural ventilation works with a pressure difference at the inlet and outlet. The entrance is an exhaust valve, it is placed in the ceiling of the room or in the wall under the ceiling. The exit is the top of the pipe. The drop starts at 10 meters. The pressure difference also depends on the temperature difference. It is better in winter and worse in summer.

A natural inflow is made above the heating devices, which are usually located under the windows. Or two meters above the floor.

The question often arises

Is it possible to combine the ventilation ducts of the kitchen, bathroom and boiler room into a single system, then install a duct fan, and bring everything through the roof with one pipe.

Our forum user Vladimir(nickname on the forum Careless Angel ) thinks that:

- In no case should you combine the exhaust from the sewer, then the whole house will stink like a toilet, regardless of whether an air duct is installed in front of the fan or after.

Also of great importance is the material from which the ventilation ducts for a private house are made. One of the best options is the use of spiral wound galvanized air ducts. But with self-assembly, developers massively use ventilation ducts made from a sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.

Matilda :

– Sewer pipes must not be used. In general, plastic should not be used for air ducts, unless these are special antistatic pipes. In this case, the dust will stick to the walls. In addition, sewer pipes have a small diameter. And the thrust directly depends on the diameter of the duct and the height difference. The difference in the cottages is quite small - this is not a high-rise building for you. This means that with a small diameter, there will be practically no traction, especially in summer. And if you put a fan, then the sewer pipes will make a very unpleasant sound when the air moves.

air ducts for ventilation for private homes - requirements and features

In order for the ventilation system to work with maximum efficiency, it is necessary that the inner surface of the duct provide minimal resistance to air movement. Let's see how to choose the right one V air ducts to ventilate your home.

Matilda :

- The main task
ducting is to allow air to move freely from the point of air intake to the point of its outlet. And be safe from the point of view of ecology and fire safety. Any loss of pressure greatly affects or negates the air exchange during natural ventilation. Pressure losses occur from uneven duct surfaces, horizontal sections, elbows, tees, etc. With a rectangular duct, the losses are higher than with a round one, and dust accumulates in them well.

Flexible - corrugated duct provides the greatest air resistance. And it is best used when you need to make a turn or attach a kitchen hood to the ventilation duct.

Very often, developers, for various reasons, do not want to make a conclusion through the roof, preferring to bring the ventilation duct through the wall. It is not right.

Matilda :

– Never, under any circumstances, vent through a wall. ruin the facade.

In a couple of years there will be a visible spot on the wall around the exit.
And it’s also pointless to remove natural ventilation, since there will be absolutely no difference in height, and, accordingly, pressure.

If, with a forced ventilation system, all air ducts are connected by elbows and adapters with one vertical duct, then it is recommended to install an E190P fan on the roof.

To control this fan, a thyristor speed controller is placed in a convenient place. And the air ducts themselves are taken with a diameter of 125 mm.

On FORUMHOUSE you will find an article about, a lot of useful information, a fascinating discussionchoice A after reading our video, youyou will be able to clearly see how an integrated approach to the ventilation device allows not only to provide the house with fresh air, but also save money.

Not so long ago, when conducting private residential construction, the future owners of houses, if they considered ventilation issues, still pushed them into the background, not giving these problems due attention. To a certain extent, this approach was justified: the very design of buildings, the material of their construction, the presence of stoves with chimney channels, the installation of non-hermetic and door blocks - all this contributed to the constant air circulation in the premises, which was enough to maintain a more or less acceptable microclimate.

However, the trend has now changed dramatically. New building and finishing materials have appeared, modern windows and doors are widely used, providing almost complete sealing of openings, the requirements for thermal insulation of buildings have increased, that is, during construction, they try to block any heat leakage paths as much as possible. Conventional air infiltration through building structures is clearly not enough, and therefore, even at the design stage, an effective ventilation system for the premises is immediately provided.

With a change in living conditions, the owners of old houses have to take certain steps. And one of the most acceptable options, inexpensive and available for independent execution, is natural ventilation in a private house. This article is devoted to this topic.

What functions should the ventilation of the house take on?

Is ventilation really necessary to make it so important? A similar question can only arise about an amateur. The need for a permanent air exchange system can hardly be overestimated, both in terms of creating and maintaining the most comfortable microclimate for life and safe for the health of people, and in terms of ensuring long-term trouble-free operation of the entire building as a whole.

• Humans need oxygen in the air to function properly. In the process of breathing, it is gradually replaced by carbon dioxide, and if there is no constant replenishment of fresh air, then the atmosphere in a closed room becomes heavy, suffocating, causing rapid fatigue, lethargy, restless sleep, or even more serious reactions in the form of shortness of breath, dizziness, seizures, etc. .p., especially in people suffering from chronic diseases of the respiratory system and circulation.

• Air stagnation is a mandatory increase in the concentration of pathogens and allergens contained in it in suspension.
• There is no escape from the fact that human life is constantly accompanied by smells. This is sweat, and other quite normal body secretions, the aroma of which is not very pleasant, these are perfumes and cosmetics, these are household chemicals and other sources. Let's add some bad habits here, in particular, smoking, as well as smells from pets. If constant effective ventilation is not provided, very quickly the atmosphere in the living rooms will become unsuitable for a normal stay in them.

• Houses with "amenities" on the street are practically a thing of the past. The comfort of living is associated with an equipped bathroom or at least a shower, a warm toilet or a shared bathroom. should be organized in such a way that the air, together with odors and steam from these rooms, does not penetrate into the residential area, but is immediately taken out.

The kitchen always requires special attention. This is due to the increased temperature in this room during cooking, and to the products of combustion if a gas stove is used, and with a lot of smells, pleasant and not very, with fatty fumes and a lot of water vapor. All this should be immediately removed from the house.

• The air exhaled by humans and animals always contains a high concentration of water vapor. In addition, a variety of household appliances contribute to excessive humidity in the premises - washing machines and dishwashers, irons, electric kettles, etc. Here you can add drying of washed clothes, wet cleaning and other reasons. And high humidity, which has no way out due to lack of or insufficient ventilation, is dampened walls, which become a favorite "springboard" for the development of various microflora - fungus, mold, moss, this is a decoration that quickly comes into a miserable appearance, it is foggy, and in strong frosts - ice-crusted windows. And the resource of durability of waterlogged building structures made of any material is sharply reduced.

• Unfortunately, not everything is going well with many materials that are widely used for decoration, insulation or for the manufacture of furniture. Many of them are capable of releasing substances that are very harmful to human health into the home atmosphere - formaldehyde, styrene and other toxic compounds. Ventilation helps to minimize the negative effect of such emissions.

If desired, this list can be continued. However, what has already been listed should be more than enough to understand the importance of well-equipped ventilation and imagine what a comfortable home can turn into in its absence.

When designing any buildings in our time, special attention is paid to ventilation issues. If, for one reason or another, the owner got a house that was not equipped with such a system, he would have to do it without delay. And at first, it will be easiest to organize natural ventilation, since it usually does not require excessive costs and large-scale alterations inside the premises.

The principle of operation of natural ventilation. Its advantages and disadvantages.

Under what conditions can natural ventilation be used?

Ventilation of premises can be organized according to various schemes, but all of them can be divided into two main groups.

1. First a large group, which, in turn, is divided into several varieties is forced ventilation, in which air flows are created due to one or another mechanical effect, provided by the operation of special fans. Such ventilation can be supply, exhaust, or created according to a combined scheme. Such schemes are very complex, they usually require a professional trip, but they allow you to control the quality of the air entering the premises and carry out its necessary post-treatment.

2. Second- This is the natural ventilation considered in our article, which does not involve the forced supply or extraction of air masses. All movement of flows is carried out exclusively due to natural forces obeying the laws of physics.

- Temperature difference - warm air always has a lower density and, therefore, mass, in comparison with colder air, and therefore tends to rise.

- Pressure drop: due to the height of the vertical ventilation ducts, a certain, although not so significant, pressure drop is created, which contributes to the movement of air.

- The effect of the wind.

• The operation of natural ventilation does not accept the installation of any highly efficient filtering devices (except for gratings or nets that do not let through, for example, fallen leaves, large debris, insects, etc.). These devices will make it difficult or even impossible for the normal movement of air flows from the street to the premises, which will lead to the inoperability of the entire system of the system as a whole. Thus, it makes sense to limit yourself to natural ventilation only in conditions of clean air in the construction area.

It is clear that the creation of natural ventilation in a house located near a busy highway, where the air is oversaturated with exhaust and dust, becomes an unsuccessful solution. For the same reasons, such a scheme is not applied if an unpleasant odor is traditionally felt on the building site from nearby industrial enterprises, livestock complexes, treatment facilities, etc. Instead of improving the microclimate, the opposite effect will be obtained indoors.

A similar criterion for assessing the admissibility of natural ventilation can be attributed to the noise level (for example, not so far from the site there is a railway line or airport). It should be remembered that such a ventilation scheme always reduces the overall level of sound insulation of the house.

• Comfortable living conditions require an optimal combination of several parameters - air saturation with oxygen, its temperature and relative humidity. Practice shows that natural ventilation will maintain this balance only in the conditions of the so-called inertial house.

This concept is based on the fact that the building was erected from materials capable of accumulating thermal energy - this includes brick, gas silicate, expanded clay concrete, ceramic blocks, cinder blocks, adobe walls. In this case, the house must have high-quality thermal insulation, made exclusively from the outside. Walls built of wood (log or timber) or adobe have a certain inertia.

It is in such conditions, when the walls are able to accumulate thermal potential, and then give it to the flow of incoming air, properly organized natural ventilation will work to improve the microclimate in the premises. Heated surfaces become a kind of recuperator, that is, they contribute to the rapid and high-quality heating of the incoming air.

Prices for ventilation systems

ventilation system

But in the so-called inertial-free houses, the picture is completely different. Constantly penetrating free air flows from the outside lead to unreasonably large heat losses, cool the house, and there is no need to talk about ensuring a normal balance of temperature and humidity. Such buildings include buildings erected using frame technology, from sandwich panels, polystyrene concrete, vacuum blocks and a number of other modern building materials. In such conditions, the only correct solution is the use of a well-thought-out forced ventilation system.

• Natural ventilation is more suitable for buildings that are compact in plan, without long enfilades of rooms, outbuildings and outbuildings. Its creation becomes more complicated with the increase in levels - the floors being built (this will be discussed below). It is practically inapplicable “in its pure form” or very inefficient for ventilation of a residential attic, due to the characteristics of this room, a different scheme will have to be applied here.

So, before you start creating a natural ventilation system, you should evaluate the listed evaluation criteria, and only then make a decision.

The principle of operation of the natural ventilation system of a country house

So, let's now consider what is the fundamental device of natural ventilation of a private house, how it works.

For the functionality of such a scheme, a combination of supply and exhaust channels is required to ensure free, unhindered air movement between them.

Fresh air (shown by wide blue arrows) enters the premises through ajar windows or special intake ventilation valves (item 1). There, it heats up due to the action of heating devices, convection and heat transfer from structures accumulating thermal potential, displaces denser, carbon dioxide-saturated "exhaust" air, which moves (wide green arrows) to rooms in which exhaust vents are installed. For its free movement along the route, either gaps are provided between the floor surface and the door leaf, or through windows in the doors themselves (pos. 2).

Exhaust vents (pos. 3) are usually provided in the most "dirty" rooms that require maximum air exchange to remove odors, fumes or excess moisture. Here, the air flows of “exhaust” air (wide red arrows), picking up all these negative components, exit into the vents and move up the vertical ventilation ducts, due to the temperature and pressure differences already mentioned above.

These air ducts exit through the attic and roof and terminate in ventilation pipe heads above the roof surface (item 4). The placement of these pipes on the roof is also subject to certain rules, which will be discussed below.

Thus, for the effective operation of the natural ventilation of the house as a whole, each of the rooms must be equipped with either an inlet duct (valve) or an outlet vent. A number of rooms suggest the presence of both a valve and an outlet.

Prices for air ducts

air ducts

When planning the location of supply valves and ventilation vents, the following rules are followed:

• An inlet valve (or other way for clean air to enter) must be provided in any of the living quarters, whether it be a bedroom, living room, nursery, office, dining room, etc.
• Ventilation ducts with vents are provided for:

- In the kitchens. It should be remembered that the presence of a kitchen hood above the stove does not exempt from the need to place a ventilation vent.

- In bathrooms, toilets or combined bathrooms, home baths.

- In a dedicated room for home laundry.

- In pantries, dryers, dressing rooms, if they go into the premises of the residential area. If they are separated by a door from the corridor or kitchen, then a supply valve is installed in them.

- In a home workshop, if work in it may be accompanied by the appearance of fumes, smoke, unpleasant odors (welding, soldering, painting, the use of chemicals for various purposes - adhesives, mastics, solvents, technical fluids, etc.)

• A number of rooms require the placement of both a supply valve and a ventilation outlet:

- Premises in which gas heating equipment is installed.

- A room in the living area, if there are more than two doors between it and the nearest ventilation duct.

- A living space combined with a kitchen, that is, for example, a kitchen-dining room.

- Home sports or gyms.

• A special approach is required to the premises of the second floor. The fact is that warm air from the ground floor necessarily rises, and an additional load is placed on the ventilation system. There are two options here:

- If the second floor is separated from the staircase by a permanently closed door, then the approach to placing supply valves and exhaust vents remains almost the same. True, with a caveat - in the case when there are no "dirty" rooms on the second floor (kitchen, bathroom, toilet, etc.), the outlet can be located in the common hall (corridor), where all the rooms go.

- In the case when the second floor is not blocked by doors from the first, in each of the rooms, regardless of its purpose, both a fresh air intake channel and a ventilation outlet are provided.

In addition, the presence of a supply window and a ventilation outlet is mandatory for basement (basement) rooms and for the space under wooden floors on the logs on the first floor. But basement ventilation is already a separate topic for more thorough consideration, and in this publication it is “bracketed”.

Advantages and disadvantages of the natural ventilation system at home

So, for what advantages systems can be calculated if the scheme of natural ventilation of a country house is selected:

• Such a ventilation system requires a minimum financial investment. Most of the work is quite accessible for independent implementation. True, if the house did not previously have exhaust ventilation ducts, this will have to be seriously worked on. Supply valves should not cause any particular difficulties in installation.
• The system is reliable, primarily for the reason that its design does not involve complex mechanisms - by and large, there is simply nothing to fail.

• Natural ventilation does not require complex maintenance. In principle, it comes down only to a regular revision of the condition of the ventilation ducts and, if necessary, their cleaning.
• Such a system is completely non-volatile and does not require additional operating costs.
• The absence of mechanisms is also the absence of technological noise inherent in other types of ventilation of the forced principle of operation.

However, we do not forget about quite significant shortcomings natural ventilation:

• In most cases, the supply channels do not have high-quality filters (they would interfere with natural circulation), which means that the incoming air carries pollution, dust, odors, pollen. Possible penetration of small insects.
• Supply valves are a "gap" in the overall sound insulation of the house.
• The system is very difficult to quantify the incoming air volumes.
• Natural ventilation is extremely dependent on the time of year and even on the current and weather outside. In winter, when the temperature difference between inside and outside the house is large, ventilation works "to its fullest", which often causes energy overruns for heating needs. Reducing the intake of air from the outside (for example, by covering the supply valves) immediately gives increased humidity - with all the ensuing consequences.

• In the summer heat, on the contrary, air circulation can slow down or even stop altogether. There is only one way out: at this time, use the cross-ventilation scheme, opening windows on both sides of the house - air movement will be carried out due to the pressure difference on the leeward and windward sides. But at the same time, from the "dirty" premises, it is quite likely that excess moisture and odors will flow into the residential area.

There are many ways in one way or another to optimize the work of natural circulation - we will talk about this later.

Video: the principle of operation of natural circulation and its seasonal features

How is the performance of a home's natural ventilation system calculated?

It is not enough to correctly determine the location of the supply valves and exhaust ventilation vents. The ventilation system must have a certain capacity to ensure optimal air exchange in all rooms of the house.

These requirements for air exchange volumes are established by the current building codes and regulations for all residential and special premises of the building. From them they begin to "dance" when making calculations. An extract from these regulations is given in the table below:

Room type	Minimum air exchange rates (multiplicity per hour or cubic meters per hour)
	INFLOW	HOOD
Code of Rules SP 55.13330.2011 to SNiP 31-02-2001 "Single-apartment residential buildings"
Residential premises with permanent residence of people	At least one volume exchange per hour	-
Kitchen	-	60 m³/hour
Bathroom, toilet	-	25 m³/h
Other premises	Not less than 0.2 volume per hour
Code of rules SP 60.13330.2012 to SNiP 41-01-2003 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning"
Minimum outdoor air consumption per person: living quarters with permanent residence of people, in conditions of natural ventilation:
With a total living area of ​​more than 20 m² per person	30 m³/h, but at the same time not less than 0.35 of the total air exchange volume of the apartment per hour	-
With a total area of ​​less than 20 m² per person	3 m³/hour for every 1 m² of room area	-
Code of Rules SP 54.13330.2011 to SNiP 31-01-2003 "Residential multi-apartment buildings"
Bedroom, nursery, living room	One volume exchange per hour	-
Cabinet, library	0.5 volume per hour	-
Linen, pantry, dressing room	-	0.2 volume per hour
Home gym, billiard room	80 m³/hour
Kitchen with electric stove	-	60 m³/hour
Premises with gas equipment
A room with a solid fuel boiler or stove	Single exchange + 100 m³/h for a gas stove
Home laundry, dryer, ironing	-	90 m³/hour
Shower, bath, toilet or shared bathroom	-	25 m³/h
home sauna	-	10 m³/h per person

Premises with a permanent stay of people are understood in this case as those in which the residents stay for more than two hours. It is clear that in the conditions of an apartment it is necessary to include all living rooms here, with the possible exception of those that are not in use and are closed. In this case, for these residential premises, the air exchange rate is taken - 0.2 of the volume per hour.

The general calculation is usually carried out in this sequence.

A. They begin by determining the required volume of air intake into ventilated rooms equipped with supply valves.

If you look at the tables carefully, you can see that the regulatory documents offer several ways to calculate - from the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bliving premises, from the volume of rooms (air exchange rate), and sometimes - from the number of people who are constantly in the room. So, it is worth trying to carry out calculations in several ways, and then choose the maximum from the resulting results.

Let's explain with an example:

• Residential building with an area of ​​70 m², three family members live (more than 20 m² per person). In the bedroom with a total area of ​​16 square meters, a permanent stay (more than 2 hours) of two people is expected. If calculated according to sanitary standards (SNiP 41-01-2003 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning"), then the required air supply is at least 30 m³ / hour for each, that is, 60 m³ / hour.

Thus, from the two values ​​obtained, we select the maximum - 60 m³ / h.

• The same house, but already a children's room, with an area of ​​13 m³, where one person is constantly located. According to sanitary standards - 30 m³ / h, in terms of the volume of a single air exchange from the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room - 39 m³ / h. That is, the value is taken exactly 39 m³.
• Large living room (20 m²), where all family members gather and spend time together every day. Based on the norm of 30 m³ per person, this is 90 m³ / hour. If we count from the area (volume) of the room - 60 m³ / hour. The larger value is taken.
• For a small office with an area of, for example, 11 m², the values ​​​​will be approximately equal - 30 and 33 m³ / h.
• A similar calculation is carried out for each of the premises where air supply ducts will be provided. Then the maximum values ​​\u200b\u200bare summed up - the result will show how much air is required to be let into a residential building. Suppose, in our example, the total volume of the required air exchange was 192 m³ / h.

To simplify the calculations of the required air intake, you can use the calculator below, which contains the main ratios in accordance with the current SNiP.