What size should the horse pen be? Master class on the construction of a stable and corral for horses

A stall is a fenced box in the stable or outside it, designed to keep a horse without a leash. In the modern world, stalls are much more common than they were worth, where the horse is constantly on a leash. Thanks to this, a large number of options for designs and types of equipment for the stall appeared. Let's start with the types of stalls. In this area, as in many others in our language, some confusion in terminology has formed. Each stall selling company uses its own division, we have chosen some average, most, from the point of view, logical option.

So, stalls are:

- stationary

These boxes are themselves part of the stable. Stationary stalls can most often be seen in old KSKs and stud farms. There, the walls of the building and the partitions between the stalls are made of brick (for example). In such boxes, usually only the front wall and the door, or only the door, are not part of the building. These boxes cannot be assembled and disassembled.

- collapsible

Collapsible stalls have a supporting structure made of metal and walls filled with wooden or plastic slats. Such boxes can be used for both stationary and temporary keeping of horses.

Collapsible stalls can be single and modular. We can often see modular collapsible structures in new KSKs, when all stable stalls make up one module for 20 heads (for example). This means that the stalls have common structural elements, adjacent walls between the boxes, and so on. Modular collapsible stalls are installed both inside the stable, and then they are used for permanent keeping of horses, or on the street. Such boxes are used for temporary keeping of animals in tournaments or during the warm season (“letniki”). Single collapsible stalls can most often be seen at major tournaments, when such boxes are installed in a group under one large tent. Also, such single stalls can solve the issue of keeping a horse where there is a stationary stable.

The material of the walls of the stall can be different: from iron to wood. All-iron stalls are not the best option: they are cold and noisy. Thick plastic is a more comfortable option for the horse, but it can have a specific smell (especially in the heat), and it also does not hold heat well. The best option is a tree. Hardwoods (such as oak) will last longer, but they also cost more. A softer wood is more accessible, but it also has horse teeth. To prolong the life of such material, the doors around the perimeter are upholstered with a metal profile, thereby preventing the horse from chewing on the wood.

Stall doors can be:

- sliding

I open such a door by sliding it to the side due to a special rail. The disadvantage of this design is that the bottom rail is often clogged with sawdust and fodder, which makes it difficult to open the door. In addition, such doors can become loose over time or from the blows of the horse's hooves.

- hinged

This door opens outwards. This mounting option is more durable, but takes up more space. In addition, it is always necessary to ensure that all the doors of the stalls are closed so that horses walking along the passage cannot accidentally injure themselves about them.

The upper part of the stall door can be hinged (“Danish doors”), it can consist of a solid lattice in the entire height of the stall, or it can have a figured lattice. Such curly lattices are designed so that the horse can stick his head and neck out of the stall and watch what is happening outside. This feature makes the stay in the stall more psychologically comfortable for the horse. There are types of curly lattices that cannot be completely closed, and those that provide such an opportunity.

We have already published the site in the magazine. To summarize this material, we can say that the most successful option for coating is a filler floor, but it is quite expensive. A cheaper option is rubber mats. It is very harmful to keep a horse on a concrete floor. It is slippery, cold and unhygienic. must be thick enough, of high quality and match the type of flooring.

In most modern stables, stalls are equipped with automatic drinkers. It is important to keep them in good condition. They should be easy to press, not creak or leak. If horses are watered by hand, it is best to either use buckets (they are heavier and more stable) or use handy tools to keep the water bucket stable. For example, a car tire cut along the length, in the middle of which a bucket is placed, does an excellent job with this function.

Feeders are also stationary (built into the stall) and removable (hung on the wall of the stall. Removable ones are easier to clean, but they are less durable than stationary ones. In addition to concentrate feeders, there are also hay feeders: stationary (most often corner), reptuha and for stall.

The minimum size of a stall for an average adult horse is 3*4 meters. For a large animal or a mare with a foal, the stall should be larger, at least 4 * 4.5 meters. These are the minimum dimensions and are suitable only for those horses that spend very little time in the stable, for example, only at night. If a horse, for some reason, spends more time in boxing, then the size of the stall should be significantly larger. However, even the largest stall does not allow the animal to fully move and communicate with relatives, which means.

Stall size
The size of the stall may depend on the size and purpose of the horse. For ponies and small breeds (Arabian), 4x4 meters will be enough, and for horses whose height exceeds 140 cm, the size of the stall should be at least 4.5x4.5 meters. Large horses of warm-blooded and heavy draft breeds need an even more spacious stall, 5x5 meters or 5.3x5.3 meters in size, and a mare with a foal or a breeding stallion needs to be provided with 6.5x6.5 meters of free space. On the other hand, miniature horses feel great in stalls that are only 2.5x2 meters in size. It is recommended that the length of the wall of the stall be 1.5 times the length of the horse, but as they say, the more the better.

Ceiling height in stall
It is better to be guided by the principle "the higher the better" both for the safety of the horse and for ventilation. The minimum ceiling height can be 4 m (if you make stalls in an existing old room, and you simply have no other choice). Increasing the height of the ceiling will improve air circulation, but will also help minimize the risk of the horse hitting its head if it rears up in fright. High ceilings also mean that wiring and other communications will be located higher and, as they say, out of harm's way.

doors
Stall doors can be lattice, solid and combined. It is better to install combined doors (half wooden / iron - half lattice, pole or mesh): this, firstly, will provide ventilation, secondly, will allow the horse to observe what is happening in the stable, and, thirdly, will not her to get hurt by getting her hooves stuck in the bottom of the grate.
The partitions in the stall are also of great importance: properly designed, they give horses the opportunity to communicate with their neighbors. Stable design companies say that ninety percent of clients, when asked about partition design, want it to be floor-to-ceiling solid. But stable designers recommend that owners allow the horse to interact with other horses.

floor coverings
And finally we move on to the flooring. Each owner decides for himself what type of coverage to choose, but in general, the floor must meet the following requirements:

Don't be too tough
- do not absorb odors
- be dry
- not be slippery
- be durable
- be durable
- be cleanable
- to be accessible, inexpensive

Many landowners are wondering how to build a stable on their property. The fact is that someone has dreamed of horses since childhood, while others want to professionally breed animals for further resale. Moreover, the horse riding business is now gaining momentum. Not surprisingly, this topic has become more relevant than ever.

Building a stable

Start of construction

Before you start building a stable with your own hands, you need to create a project. It will include drawings, estimates, descriptions of the necessary materials and other important information. This document will be your roadmap to the final concept. It needs to take into account the following points:

1. The main purpose of the construction is to provide maximum comfort for horses. You have to consider that horses need a lot of space. Moreover, the stable must be properly insulated and have enough light. It should not have drafts. Animals are extremely sensitive to them.
2. As a place of construction, it is best to choose a hill. This will prevent the formation of dampness inside. Otherwise, horses will often suffer from hoof diseases.
3. Determine from which direction the wind blows most often. It is necessary that cold streams fall on the corner of the stable.
4. A special role is played by the preparation of estimates without this document, it is impossible not only to build a stable, but simply to start construction. Clearly evaluate your capabilities and calculate the budget.

After the main points have been clarified, you can proceed directly to the construction of the stable.

Deciding on the material

In fact, this issue needs to be decided even in the process of creating a stable project. But since the topic is very extensive, it is better to separate it into a separate section. Among professional horse breeders, brick and wood are recognized as the best materials. This choice is explained quite simply. These materials, better than any other, are able to provide dryness and warmth inside the stable.

Brick allows you to create a strong and reliable building. In addition, this material is also breathable. And this is a very weighty argument when creating an optimal environment for animals.

In turn, the timber perfectly copes with moisture and creates a microclimate that is ideal for the life of horses. Thanks to him, the stable will become the place where the animals will feel as comfortable as possible.

There is an option even for those who do not have enough funds to purchase the right amount of bricks or wood. To make the building warm, dry and inexpensive - use adobe. This material is a mixture of clay and straw. It is natural and has good thermal insulation properties.

Advice ! A very budget version of the stable consists of boards in the form of a frame. Clay sawdust is poured into the space between them.

It is better not to use stone when creating a building. It, of course, has amazing durability and reliability, but dampness will definitely form inside the stable. In addition, heating such a room costs a lot of money.

Making the walls

The thickness of the walls of the stable directly depends on the material and climate in which the building is being built. If construction takes place in the northern zones of the country, the thickness of the walls should be from 22 to 25 centimeters. In turn, in the southern latitudes, logs 20 cm thick are quite enough.

Walls should be made on a good, solid foundation. Moreover, the space between these building elements is best laid with roofing paper. If this material is not available, use roofing material or even asphalt. In principle, any waterproofing material will do.

Important ! The construction of the stable should be carried out taking into account the fact that the temperature inside should not be lower than 10 degrees.

The internal layout of the walls of the building is carried out with the expectation that the horse in the stall should be able to change position without problems. Otherwise, the animals will be extremely uncomfortable inside.

Roof

The roof in the stable is best made pitched. Moreover, it needs to be equipped with ebbs and gutters. It is necessary that the water is drained into special containers, and not under the walls of the building. Otherwise, the appearance of dampness inside is simply inevitable.

The ceiling must be at such a level that the animal can fit freely in the stable. At the same time, it should not hit its head on the ceiling. Of course, the maximum height of each horse depends on the breed, but it is better not to make ceilings lower than three meters.

The ridge in the gable roof is installed at a height of about four meters, but not more than five. The lower edge of the roof should rise above the ground by at least three meters.

The best material for building a stable has long been recognized as 5-centimeter boards. A clay-sand mixture is laid on them and sawdust is poured. You can also use dry reeds.

Roofing material for building a stable in theory can be anything. But it should not let moisture through, be resistant to any weather conditions and not succumb to combustion. The slate is perfect.

Creating the floor - as the most important step in the construction of the stable

The floor of the stable should have the following properties:

• strength,
• waterproof,
• softness,
• thermal insulation.

The floor in the stable is most often wooden or adobe. Each option has its own advantages.

Perhaps the easiest way to make an adobe floor. To do this, you must first level the ground in the construction of the stables. Then it is necessary to lay a thick layer of clay, and then compact it. The thickness of the coating is not less than 15 cm!

Important ! When pressed, the clay shrinks twice, keep this in mind when buying.

In the end, all that is needed is to dry the floor in the building. Immediately after this, cracks form. To eliminate them, use a mixture of clay and lime. Pour the solution into the damaged areas and wait for it to dry. Sprinkle the resulting surface with sand

The adobe floor is well-deservedly popular among horse breeders. It is warm and great for animal hooves. The only negative is the difficulty in care.

The surface of the adobe floor of the stable must be covered with a special bedding. The task of filling up dents, which appear quite often as a result of the natural obstinacy of animals, falls on the shoulders of horse breeders.

A wooden floor is also often used in a stable. When building boards, they are located as close to each other as possible. Gaps and cracks should not be at all. It is best to sink the logs into the ground.

Important ! The main advantage of a wooden floor in a stable is its ability to retain heat inside.

Rarely, when building a stable, they make a brick or asphalt floor. They are quite good, but their laying is quite an expensive undertaking. If there are practically no funds, but the desire to start a business has not gone away, you can resort to one trick.

An earthen floor for a stable costs practically nothing, but provides horses with relatively good comfort. It is necessary to mix the loosened soil with straw and compact it well. Actually everything.

Important ! The floor in the stable should have a slight slope towards the passage from the feeder, no more than two degrees.

We install doors

Doors in the stable should not be narrow. When passing through them, the animal should not experience the slightest discomfort. The standard parameters are as follows: a height of at least two meters, a width of one and a half.

Important ! Door jambs should be rounded.

Doors can only open outwards. Pay special attention to the shutters, they should be rounded and not protrude outward. In most cases, they lead to animal injuries.

The stall is the animal's home

After the construction of the stables is completed, you need to do the interior arrangement. Stalls play a special role in this context. The height of the premises is not less than two and a half meters.

13.03.2014

The stall is the most convenient, and therefore the most popular place for keeping a horse. What should be the ideal stall for the horse to feel comfortable in it?

One of the important characteristics is the ceiling height and size. For small horses and ponies, the minimum is a 3x3 m stall. For horses whose height is more than 150 cm at the withers, the minimum is 4–4.5 m. Of course, if financial opportunities and free space allow, then a larger stall should be built. The height of the ceiling should be from 2.5–3 m so that the horse does not touch it or the protruding parts (beams, ceilings) with its head.

Now let's talk about materials. The most suitable and cheapest option is a wooden stall. But it’s not worth saving here - for the walls of the stall you will need boards with a thickness of at least 50 cm. Logs or slabs will not work. The boards must fit well and the nails must be fully driven in so that even a foal cannot get stuck or hurt. It should be borne in mind that wood is a short-lived material, and the walls will sometimes need to be updated.

The floor in the stall should not be slippery and too hard, there should be no gaps in it. Concrete and wood coatings have proven themselves well. Previously popular adobe floors are not the most hygienic and poorly cleaned, and over time pits form in them. Now sometimes rubber non-slippery coatings are used - they meet all hygiene and safety requirements.

The walls of the stall should not be solid unless it contains an aggressive sire. At a height of 1.5 m, the boards can be replaced with a grate with a round cross section. Since horses are herd animals, they need to communicate with their neighbors. The main thing is that the distance between the bars should be less than the diameter of the horse's hoof, otherwise the animal may be injured.

Particular attention must be paid to the doors. The swing door must open outward. If, in case of illness, the horse lies down, then it will not be possible to get into the stall with the door opening inward, and this can cost the animal its life. Sliding doors are popular. However, the grooves on which they are attached are often clogged with sawdust and small debris. Doors don't close properly because of this. It is important that there is no gap between the floor and the door into which the horse could put his foot. A large percentage of injuries in stalls are precisely these cases.

Feeders should not interfere with the entry and exit of the horse from the stall. There are a huge number of models for every taste. They are divided into removable and stationary. The stationary feeder should have rounded corners and no sharp edges. If an autodrinker is installed in the stall, it is better to place it at the far end of the stall.