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  • Weeds: photo and name. Buttercup creeping: all about perennial with yellow flowers How to get rid of creeping buttercup

    Weeds: photo and name.  Buttercup creeping: all about perennial with yellow flowers How to get rid of creeping buttercup

    Grain crops, corn.

    Perennial climbing plant.

    Description:

    Root with short underground stems. Stem up to 60 cm long, lying, with creeping lateral shoots that take root at the nodes. Leaves with tripartite separate plates, on long petioles. The fruit is an obovate, unequal-sided, slightly wrinkled brown nutlet on the surface, with an awl-shaped remnant of the style at the top. Cotyledons elliptical on short petioles. The leaves of the shoots are alternate, the first ones are rounded, at the top with three large whole lobes, the second with a large number of teeth, finely pubescent.

    Weed Biology:

    Seedlings from nuts and shoots from buds on the root collar appear in March-May and throughout the summer. They germinate from a depth of no more than 8 cm. It blooms in May-July. Fruits in June-August. The fertility of one plant is up to 350 nuts, which in a freshly ripened state have a very low germination rate. Weight of 1000 nuts is 2.25-3 g. Poisonous plant.

    Favorable conditions for development:

    Prefers excessively moist, nutrient-rich loamy and clay soils.

    Control measures:

    In the system of autumn tillage - peeling with disc cultivators to a depth of 10-12 cm and, after weed germination, deep plowing of the arable layer. In the spring - plowing (with simultaneous harrowing or disking). With late harvesting in autumn - only peeling, and plowing - in spring.

    Weeds on a lawn are those plants that are not normally used for turfing. They not only spoil the appearance of the site, but also take away nutrition from the grass. Thus, weeds slow down the development and reduce the immunity of the cereal flora. Weed control on the lawn is an indispensable event for the care of the green carpet.

    The appearance of unwanted vegetation is almost inevitable on a freshly sown lawn. The seeds of unwanted plants are carried by the wind, birds, and animals. They are worn on the soles of shoes by adults and children. But after rooting, the main grasses crowd out most of the weeds.

    Lawn that crowds out weeds - fantasy or reality

    A lawn that can take care of itself is the dream of every owner. It is a pity, but lawn grass, literally destroying weeds, has not yet been bred. However, there are plants that can withstand the invaders. This , . Individually or in combination, these herbs, growing, can displace weeds. However, without human help, especially at first, they can not do.

    ON THE PICTURE: Fescue (Festuca) not only helps to get rid of weeds, but also effectively decorates the lawn.

    The first step to enjoying a weed-free lawn is when purchasing seeds. It is desirable to choose mixtures that have undergone high-quality processing. In addition, it is very important to keep the area under fallow before sowing.

    As a rule, weed seeds are much less common in lawn mixtures than in turf.

    What will help increase the resistance of the lawn to weeds

    1. Regular cutting of the upper third of the grasses;
    2. Properly organized watering;
    3. Cleaning the surface with a rake, destroying ground cover weeds and felt;
    4. Seasonal fertilizing with nitrogen, phosphorus, potash fertilizers.

    What weeds can be found on the lawn

    Below are common weeds on the lawn: photos and names, as well as brief descriptions will help you identify the enemy.

    Small sorrel (Sorrel)

    Perennial with a strong root system. An upright stem up to 40 cm high. The leaves are lanceolate, green with an admixture of red. Propagated by seeds (germination - 10 years) and root shoots. It grows especially actively on soils with insufficient calcium content.

    How to fight: selective herbicide treatment - in late spring and a month after that.

    Perennial herb with fibrous roots. The creeping stem reaches a meter in length, taking root along the way and giving life to new plants. The leaves are trifoliate, with and without petioles. It blooms all summer with solitary golden flowers. Each gives more than 100 seeds. Very aggressive plant, can capture large areas.

    How to fight: if the weed has managed to grow, then the site can be treated with a general herbicide.

    Weed with a weak rhizome. The stem is erect, from 15 to 50 cm high. Below it is thickened into a bulbous tuber. A few leaves are sessile and petiolate. Golden yellow flowers appear in late spring. Thrives in moderately moist sandy soils.

    How to fight: this type of Buttercup is difficult to eradicate, it is necessary to choose a selective herbicide with several active substances. For greater efficiency, the treatment should be repeated after a month and a half.

    A plant with a fibrous, thickened root at the top. Stem straight, glabrous. The leaves are dark green, dissected, shiny. Blooms from late spring to early autumn with yellow flowers. Differs in vitality, prefers light areas with moist soil.

    How to fight: use a selective preparation with several active substances twice. Interval - one and a half months, the first treatment at the end of spring.

    Root perennial. In spring, bright yellow flowers appear against a background of dark green glossy leaves. Shoots creeping, rooting at the nodes. Underground tubers form buds. The plant actively propagates by self-sowing. It grows rapidly, especially on waterlogged soil and in the shade.

    How to fight: use a herbicide with several active substances twice with an interval of one and a half months.

    Thin roots diverge from the main root. Broad petiolate leaves are arranged alternately. Small flowers are collected in spike-shaped inflorescences. On fertile soils, the number of flower stalks increases. Each plant produces thousands of seeds that remain viable for 7 years. In addition, baby bulbs are formed in the axils of the leaves, from which new perennials grow. Does not lend itself to beveling and trampling. Prefers moist soils.

    How to fight:

    Herbaceous plant with a powerful, branched root. The ovate, pubescent leaves sit on short petioles. A tall (up to 70 cm) peduncle bears a cylindrical spike with numerous pale pink flowers. Propagated by seeds and root shoots.

    How to fight: individual specimens are removed manually, otherwise - a selective herbicide.

    Perennial with thick taproot. The narrow pointed leaves of the plant form a rosette. The flower arrow grows up to 50 cm. The inflorescence is a false ear. Produces tens of thousands of seeds that remain viable for more than 11 years. Actively grows on alkaline and moist soils.

    How to fight: individual specimens are removed manually, otherwise - a selective herbicide.

    A plant with lobed leaves collected in a rosette. The peduncle is slightly pubescent, the inflorescence is a narrow cylindrical spike. Propagated by seeds. He likes to settle in lighted areas, prefers slightly acidic light soils.

    How to fight: individual specimens are removed manually, otherwise - a selective herbicide.

    It has narrow, fleshy leaves with serrated edges. Peduncles crowned with a short spike. Blooms from mid-summer to autumn. It reproduces by self-seeding. Thrives in well-drained, fertile soils.

    How to fight: individual specimens are removed manually, otherwise - a selective herbicide.

    Low-growing perennial with a branched rhizome. The shoots of the plant take root quickly. The leaves are trifoliate. Blooms from May to October with white flowers. Resistant to shearing and trampling. Displaces not only lawn grasses, but also other weeds. Dislikes acidic soils.

    How to fight: creeping weed stalks rise before lawn mowing. To avoid the growth of clover, abundant watering is necessary in a drought. It is possible to destroy the aerial part of the plant with a general use herbicide in the spring, as well as a selective herbicide in June–July.

    Lying or ascending stems up to 40 cm long create loose turf. The short leaves are obovate, trifoliate, sitting on petioles. It blooms with small yellow flowers collected in capitate inflorescences. Quickly settles in areas with dry sandy soils.

    How to fight:

    An annual with a thin taproot. Stems branched, weak. Trifoliate leaves with pointed tips. The flowers are yellow, after the seeds ripen, the inflorescences turn black.

    How to fight: manual removal of young annual plants is possible. When using a selective herbicide, treat twice with a one and a half month interval.

    Perennial with a long taproot and numerous above-ground shoots. The leaves are trifoliate, sessile and short-petiolate. Yellow moth flowers are collected in umbrellas. It reproduces by self-seeding. Grows on any soil, including acidic, resistant to trampling.

    How to fight: effective selective herbicide with several active substances, spray in June-July. Re-treatment is required after six weeks.

    An annual with a bare or slightly pubescent stem. The green leaves are oblong, pinnately incised. Reed yellow flowers are collected in baskets, which form an inflorescence-shield. Produces a huge amount of seeds. Occurs infrequently, usually during periods of drought.

    How to fight: it is quite possible to do with manual weeding.

    Perennial plant with a creeping rhizome and shoots with long hairs. The same villi are found on the wrong side of the lanceolate leaves. A basket is formed from the tongues of yellow flowers.

    How to fight: any selective herbicide. Weeding is ineffective.

    Perennial of the Asteraceae family. More often, the plant has only one stem, less often from 2 to 5. It reaches a height of 15–30 cm. Linear or narrow-lanceolate leaves form a basal rosette. They are notched-toothed or dissected into slices. Blooms from mid-summer to late autumn. Reed flowers are yellow. Feels good on depleted soil.

    How to fight:

    This perennial has a fleshy tap root. The leaves in the rosette can be lanceolate, pinnatifid, notched. Flower arrows bear inflorescences-baskets, consisting of yellow reed flowers. Seeds - spindle-shaped achenes are carried by the wind.

    How to fight: only a selective herbicide with several active substances, re-treatment is allowed after a month and a half.

    The name of the plant contains a characteristic of the root system. Fleshy leaves are collected in the root zone. Stems are tall and flexible. Inflorescences-baskets of light yellow reed flowers.

    How to fight: only a selective herbicide with several active substances, re-treatment is allowed after a month and a half.

    Perennial with easily rooting above-ground shoots. The plant has small rounded leaves. Beautifully blooms single white-blue flowers. Very aggressive look, quickly recovers from drought or waterlogging.

    How to fight: in spring, the lawn is treated twice with a general herbicide containing substances such as mecoprop, dicamba.

    Low perennial with ascending stems. The leaves are rounded-ovate, the upper ones are sessile, the lower ones are on short petioles. Medium-sized flowers are blue or light blue. Propagated by seeds and vegetatively.

    How to fight: in spring, the lawn is treated twice with a general herbicide, or once with a selective herbicide containing substances such as mecoprop, dicamba.

    A plant with erect, pubescent stems. Leaves are opposite. White flowers have incised petals. It reproduces by self-seeding.

    How to fight:one repeatedly

    An annual herb with a weak branched stem. Leaves with a pointed tip. A distinctive feature of the plant is always wet foliage. White, star-like flowers bloom in May and fall off in late summer. Fruits twice a year. Each plant produces tens of thousands of seeds that remain viable for 20 years.

    How to fight: with a regular haircut or once use a selective herbicide containing substances such as mecoprop, dicamba.

    A plant with a thick root and a very short stem. Long leaves are collected in a rosette. Leaf blades pinnately dissected, dense, with pronounced veins. From each rosette comes an inflorescence-basket with off-white reed flowers. The most "harmful" of all thistles. The haircut does not lend itself. Most often settles on calcareous soils.

    How to fight:dv Every six weeks, use a selective herbicide containing substances such as mecoprop, dicamba.

    Perennial with a powerful rhizome and high (up to 120 cm) stem. The leaves are alternate, hard. Red-violet baskets form corymbose-paniculate inflorescences. Propagated by seeds and root shoots. It grows most actively on soils containing nitrogen.

    How to fight:regulation Trimming will usually get rid of this weed. The remaining specimens can be treated with a selective herbicide containing substances such as mecoprop, dicamba.


    In the first year, it builds up a neat rosette of obovate leaves. On the second - grows with serrated leaf blades. Blooms from spring until frost. Marginal flowers in baskets are painted in white, pink, red tones. The plant is very insidious: single tender specimens look attractive. But soon it grows actively, suppressing its neighbors.

    How to fight: a single treatment of the site with a selective herbicide with several active substances is enough.

    Herbaceous perennial with decumbent stems that take root at each node. Leaves filiform, green. It blooms from spring to autumn with inconspicuous white-yellowish flowers. Prefers sandy soil.

    How to fight: a single application of a selective herbicide with several active substances and a subsequent increase in lawn mowing height.

    Perennial with tap root. A straight stem up to 120 cm high. Branches closer to the top. Multiple leaves pinnate, slightly pubescent. Blooms in summer. White baskets are combined into shields. Propagated by seeds and rhizomes. Vigorous, drought tolerant.

    How to fight: a comprehensive approach is needed, including application of nitrogen fertilizers in the spring, digging up individual young plants, lifting the nest-forming leaves before shearing, and applying a herbicide twice with several actives during the growing season.

    This plant has straight stems up to 25 cm high. The leaves are flat, narrowly linear in shape. There are fine hairs on the edges of the leaf blades. In spring and summer, flowers collected in spikes bloom.

    How to fight: a comprehensive approach is needed, including application of nitrogen fertilizers in the spring, digging up individual young plants, lifting the nest-forming leaves before shearing, and applying a herbicide twice with several actives during the growing season. Another treatment can be carried out in early autumn.

    Perennial with creeping rhizome. The height of the stems reaches 60 cm. Petiolate, oblong leaves with blunt tips are arranged oppositely. Blue-violet flowers are collected in semi-umbels and form an ear. Propagated by root shoots and seeds, which are scattered over long distances with the help of a springy stem.

    How to fight: individual plants are dug up, the nests are treated with a selective herbicide with substances such as mecoprop or dicamba.

    Nondescript field (Field cuff)

    Small creeping annual. Incised leaves with stiff hairs. The flowers are small, greenish in color. During the growing season, it manages to produce a lot of seeds. It is actively spreading around, capturing new territories.

    How to fight: in spring, fertilize the lawn with nitrogen, increase the cutting height. Dig up individual specimens, with a strong spread, use a herbicide of general action or selective with substances such as mecoprop or dicamba.

    Herbaceous perennial with taproot. The lanceolate leaves are blue-green. Blooms in spring, re-blooms in autumn. Small pink, purple, lilac flowers form capitate inflorescences. It is rare, usually on the parterre lawn.

    How to fight:enough internally single application of any herbicide of selective action. Digging by hand is not worth it, so as not to spoil the appearance of the turf.

    Herbaceous annual plant with a tap root system. The rising stem is up to 50 cm long. The leaves are pinnate, long-petiolate, covered with thick fluff. Flowering is long (from May to October). Pink flowers are collected in umbrella inflorescences.

    How to fight: herbicide of selective action with repeated processing in one and a half months. Mowing your lawn regularly will prevent weeds from growing.

    seaside stork

    Differs from tsikutny in smaller sizes. Prefers moist soils.

    How to fight: Regular mowing and fertilizing the lawn helps this weed to fall out. When Aistnik grows during its growing season, a selective herbicide with several active substances is used. After a month and a half, the procedure is repeated.

    Perennial frost hardy. Smooth, decumbent stems form a carpet. The leaves are collected in whorls of 6 pieces. Blooms all summer with white flowers.

    How to fight: a selective herbicide is applied in May-June, after six weeks, if necessary, it is re-treated.

    A rhizomatous plant with a forked stem. The palmately lobed leaves are dark green. Pink flowers with deep notches along the petals.

    How to fight: the most effective treatment in the spring with a herbicide of general action. You can "walk" twice with herbicide with substances like mecoprop or dicamba.

    Low (5–20 cm) perennial. Stems erect, covered with sessile leaves. Leaf blades are lanceolate with sharp tips. Below they are located oppositely, closer to the top - alternately. In summer, small pale pink flowers appear in their axils. Likes saline, moist soils. The plant is rare, can be found on the parterre lawn.

    How to fight: a single application of a selective herbicide with several active substances.

    Annual with thin branched stems that spread along the ground. The leaves are small, oblong. Small white-green flowers are hidden in the axils of the leaves. The fruits appear from summer to late autumn.

    How to fight: individual specimens can be weeded by hand. Also, the weed is sensitive to a herbicide with a substance such as dicamba, one treatment is enough.

    Perennial with a thickened root. Thin, flexible stems spread and root at the nodes. Leaves are glabrous, glossy above, pubescent below. Single flowers with light yellow petals exude an aroma that attracts bees.

    How to fight:

    Thin, but very strong shoots of the plant quickly spread over long distances, take root along the way. Toothed leaves sit on petioles. Golden-yellow flowers are located on long stalks.

    How to fight: weed depletion is facilitated by regular mowing with a preliminary raising of the grass with a rake. With significant spread, a herbicide with substances such as mecoprop or dicamba is used several times during the period of active growth.

    Overwintering annual plant with taproot, straight, slightly pubescent stem. Pinnatipartite leaves (lower petiolate, upper sessile) are arranged alternately. Inflorescences-baskets only with tubular yellow flowers. Each plant produces thousands of seeds.

    How to fight: Regular trimming will keep weeds at bay. Otherwise, a double treatment with a herbicide of selective action with an interval of one and a half months will be required.

    Herbaceous annual plant up to 30 cm high. Tetrahedral stem branches. Pointed leaves are collected in whorls (lower 4, upper 6 pieces). White-lilac flowers form capitate inflorescences. Prefers loamy soils.

    How to fight: hand weeding and regular trimming are often sufficient. You can use a selective herbicide with several active substances - the first time in May, the second - after a month and a half.

    Weeds on the lawn - turning enemies into allies

    Take another look at the photo of the weeds. Many of them are very decorative. There are among these representatives of the flora and those that have medicinal properties. Add to this vitality, unpretentiousness and fertility.

    Recommendations on how to get rid of weeds on the lawn allow you to constantly maintain the aesthetic appearance of this decorative element of the landscape. It is important to choose the appropriate method, focusing on the characteristics of the weed.

    Why fight weeds

    • they become a source of infection of lawn grass with diseases, and also contribute to the reproduction of harmful insects;
    • tall rough stems of a number of weeds give an untidy appearance, reducing its decorative effect;
    • the developed roots of weeds take a significant part of the nutrients and moisture from the soil, weakening the development and slowing down the growth of lawn grass.

    Given these circumstances, you should consider a list of measures to get rid of unnecessary plants that clog the lawn next to the house.

    Weed varieties

    Weeds that settle on lawns are distinguished by an amazing variety. To effectively remove a particular variety, you should have information about its main features. It must be borne in mind that they quickly occupy the territory, drowning out other vegetation, creeping weeds, which should be eradicated immediately after their germination.

    To bring out perennials, it is necessary to uproot their root system, sometimes reaching a length of several meters.

    The most common weeds on lawns are:

    NameDescription
    CloverThe aerial part of the clover, consisting of green trefoils, is covered with flowers in summer - pink, red or white with a pronounced honey aroma. Due to undemanding soil and the presence of moisture, this plant grows rapidly.
    small sorrelThis perennial has strong roots and an upright stem reaching a height of 0.4 m. It prefers soil with a low calcium content.
    DandelionA perennial plant with a long powerful rhizome and beautiful yellow inflorescences-baskets is considered one of the most tenacious weeds. If you do not remove the dandelion, then the ripening seeds on the umbrellas spread throughout the surrounding area.
    buttercup creepingA perennial weed with a fibrous root system captures a vast area, thanks to a creeping stem that grows up to a meter long. In places of contact with the soil, roots grow and a new plant develops.
    bluegrass annualGrass can grow in any conditions. If timely mowing is not carried out, long spikelets are formed, which give the lawn an untidy look. A plant with a shallow root system is easily pulled out of the soil.
    Plantain largePerennial with petiolate wide leaf plates, settles in moist areas. Seeds, the number of which for each plant is in the thousands, can sprout 7 years after falling into the ground
    Woodlouse stellate averageThe plant produces almost 15,000 seeds per season, quickly captures the soil surface, preferring shade and wet places. Since creeping shoots form additional roots, if you do not fight this weed, by autumn it will cover the area with a solid carpet.
    Mary whiteThe plant belongs to broad-leaved varieties of weeds. If you do not uproot the roots, this weed grows up to 2 m. The plant produces up to 700 thousand seeds that remain viable while in the soil for three years
    Speedwell filiformPerennial, blooming with white-blue flowers, takes root easily and quickly occupies the territory
    thistleA fast-growing weed with a strong root, long leaves in a rosette
    Field calfPerennial with a stem up to 1.2 m long and a strong rhizome actively populates nitrogen-rich soil
    Creeping wheatgrassPerennial weed with long horizontal rhizomes and stems up to 1.5 m high, is considered one of the most malicious weeds.

    Agrotechnical methods of struggle

    With a small amount of weed grass, agricultural practices that are safe for the lawn should be used to eradicate it.

    Steam aging. This method is practiced at the stage preceding the sowing of seeds. During the summer season, the site is loosened with a rake and weeds are dug up with roots. If there is a lot of weed grass, then you can spray the entire future lawn with special means from this vegetation - systemic herbicides of continuous action.

    Purchasing weed-free turf. Quality lawn material should not contain seeds of any type of harmful plants.

    Regular haircut. Allows you to clean the lawn from many weeds and provide further protection from their appearance by timely cutting of growing grass. This procedure has a negative effect on weeds, weakening them and preventing seeds from ripening. Lawn grass becomes more bushy and gradually firmly covers the surface with a dense carpet.

    Rake combing. With regular combing of the lawn, it is possible to remove undersized plants with climbing stems. It is recommended to perform this event in the summer, after a haircut. The method shows particular effectiveness in the fight against wood lice and bindweed.

    Weeding. To combat perennials with strong roots, weeding is the most suitable method. Apply this technique if you need to remove dandelions, plantain, sow thistle, wheatgrass. Do not pull out weeds with your hands, leaving their rhizomes in the soil. It is necessary to loosen the soil around the stem with special tools and carefully stretch the plant, trying not to cut off the roots. Use a narrow sharp spatula, garden fork, small baking powder. Flat cutters help in the fight against weeds.

    Aeration. In prolonged wet weather and in low-lying areas, moss appears on lawns. To stop its spread, the sod layer is pierced several times a season with a pitchfork, improving the aeration of the soil. At the same time, acidic soil is limed and top dressing is carried out, having found a weakening in the development of lawn grass due to lack of nutrition.

    Chemical Methods

    If there is a low efficiency of agrotechnical measures, we have to fight weeds on the lawn with the use of chemistry. With the spread of dicotyledonous weeds, the use of selective herbicides shows a good result. They do not damage the lawn grass, while maintaining the decorative effect of the lawn.

    Among these drugs of selective action, the following are most often recommended:

    1. "Lintour". The herbicide solution is absorbed by the root system and the aerial part of weeds, which causes their rapid wilting. After three weeks, the weeds completely disappear. The protective effect lasts more than two months.
    2. "Lontrell". Thanks to clopyralid, which is the active component of this herbicide, an effective fight against sedge, dandelion, plantain and other dicotyledonous perennials and annuals is carried out. The result appears after 15 days.
    3. "Deimos". It is recommended to control mainly broad-leaved weeds.
    4. "Hacker". Already a week after spraying the lawn with this herbicide, you can notice how the leaves and stems of weeds dry up.
    Before treating the area, carefully study the instructions for use, which indicate the concentration of the working solution and the consumption rate.

    A planned haircut is carried out no earlier than three days after spraying the lawn. The cut grass is raked, as it is not suitable for mulching. It is allowed to place it in compost pits, provided that the process of decomposition of organic matter has been carried out for at least 3 months.

    For the purpose of prevention, it is recommended to spray the leveled area before planting, about a month in advance, with special - continuous herbicides for the lawn. These weed killers destroy all vegetation, affecting the roots and the aerial parts detrimentally. Systemic drugs include the following varieties:

    1. "Tornado". The active ingredient is glyphosate. It is a safe and good tool that eradicates various types of vegetation, as well as shrubs. It is enough to get a few drops of the drug on the foliage so that after three weeks the plant withers. The action lasts for two months.
    2. "Diquat". The basis is the diquat substance, which provides a quick result after spraying the area. Within four days, the vegetation begins to wither, and soon the surface of the soil is completely cleared.
    3. "Roundup". The herbicide does not harm nature, as it quickly decomposes. It acts quickly, allowing you to notice the result after three days.

    Other types of continuous herbicides can also be used: Agrokiller, Antiburyan, Arsenal. When using herbicides during spraying, safety rules are observed. The body is protected by closed clothing. They put on gloves, glasses, a scarf, a respirator. It is recommended that any treatment be carried out in clear weather.

    Lawn that crowds out weeds

    To avoid time-consuming measures to destroy weeds, it is recommended to grow a lawn that actively counteracts their appearance. Seeds of plants are selected that can quickly form a thick soddy layer from intertwining roots that does not allow weeds to germinate. You can use one type of grass - bent grass, meadow bluegrass, red fescue, microclover, ryegrass.

    A good result is demonstrated by specially selected mixtures of seeds. After germination, a dense lawn is quickly formed, which not only resists the appearance of unwanted weeds, but also gives the territory a magnificent decorative look. The following seed mixes are popular:

    "Canada Green". The composition includes ryegrass and varieties of fescue. Shows resistance to low temperatures.

    "Ornamental". A mixture of ryegrass, fescue and bluegrass seeds is fast germination, the grass spreads throughout the site. "Dwarf". After the germination of seeds of fescue - red and meadow and bluegrass, an elastic lawn is created that is resistant to trampling and the appearance of weeds.

    You can pick up other types of mixtures: "Cottage", "Lilliput", "Robustika", "Country".

    With proper care and timely eradication of weeds, the lawn will look aesthetically pleasing throughout the growing season. To facilitate the task, you need to sow the prepared area with specially selected seed collections, which, after germination, actively resist the appearance of unwanted weeds.

    Wild plants that heavily clog areas are particularly tenacious plants. If left unchecked, they can occupy large areas, displacing cultivated plantings. For example, in one summer season, a plot of an abandoned house can turn into a huge weed plantation.

    Compared to vegetables, flowers, berries, which need constant attention and care, wild plants reproduce quickly and under any conditions. Therefore, every gardener is constantly interested in how to fight weeds. In this article, we will talk about more effective ways to deal with the most malicious weeds.

    Weed control methods

    There are many plants that you constantly have to get rid of on your site. Especially tenacious weeds include sow thistle, cow parsnip, creeping couch grass, etc. These enemies of cultural plantings need to be known and fought against them annually.

    sow thistle

    Thistle has a fairly strong root system and a powerful stem. Therefore, this plant is almost impossible to destroy by hand weeding. To extract the thick root of this weed, you will have to use strength and skill. At least a small root remaining in the ground will quickly sprout young sprouts and your hard work will be in vain. Experience has shown that thistle must be mowed methodically. This weakens the weeds. Between the rows of plants, you can lay out a special fabric - agroperl, which inhibits the development of weeds. To destroy thistle, you can use chemicals such as roundup, lotrel.


    snyt

    Snotweed also refers to particularly tenacious wild plants. Its roots can be found at a depth of 30-40 centimeters. Therefore, weeding this weed with your hands is not realistic. It is recommended to dig deep into the soil infected with weeds. At the same time, carefully clean it from the roots of this weed. It is better to plant potatoes on a dug-up site, which require hilling, but this process does not tolerate this process. After harvesting, cover the problem area with a thick cloth or slate so that the weed does not get the sun's rays. Chemical preparations are not afraid to sleep, so they need to be used more than once in order to achieve a positive result.


    Woodlouse

    The woodlouse is a frequent visitor to the site, which does not penetrate the solar heat well. It also thrives in areas where the soil is acidic. Despite the fact that this weed is small in size, it is very tenacious. If you leave even the slightest piece of a plant during manual processing, it will definitely take root again. In this case, you better change the composition of the soil. For example, add fertilizer to the soil - chalk or ash. Woodlice will not grow in such conditions. If you decide to chemically treat the area to get rid of this weed, you can use roundup.


    creeping wheatgrass

    Creeping wheatgrass can put down its roots to a depth of 1 meter. One plant scatters several thousand seeds around the site, which grow into a ready-made adult weed within 10-14 days. In addition, wheatgrass attracts some harmful insects, which also become enemies of your crop. Small weeding will not help here. You can try to dig the entire infected area to a depth of 30-40 cm. At the same time, you should try to select all the roots without missing a single one and destroy them. You can plant lawn grass in a problem area with wheatgrass. In a short time, she will be able to suppress weeds. Of the chemicals for the destruction of wheatgrass, roundup is suitable.

    hogweed

    Hogweed is a weed plant that can harm not only your crop, but also the health of the inhabitants of their summer cottage. To combat this noxious weed, it is imperative to use gloves, goggles and special clothing. Otherwise, the poisonous juice may injure your body. However, this weed has a weak point - it is a tubular stem. To destroy the plant, we cut off the pipe and pour concentrated acetic acid into its cavity. You can also pour the Roundup chemical into the stem cavity. Hogweed is indifferent to other chemicals.
    If, after much effort, you could not get rid of annoying weeds, you can apply more serious control measures to them.


    Popular weed control methods

    In addition to roundup, such chemicals as Killer and Tornado are popular with gardeners. These herbicides have proven themselves well, and you can easily solve this problem. Before using these drugs, be sure to read the instructions so as not to harm yourself, your family, or cultivated plants. Remember that when treating the area with herbicides, you need to wait a while for the weeds to absorb the chemistry. Usually, it takes 10-14 days until the poison fills the entire root system of the weed, after which it dies. It is better to process the infected area in quiet and sunny weather.


    Mulching will help you get rid of weeds. In the market you can buy agroperlite, which will cover the places overgrown with weeds. For mulching, you can also use straw or sawdust, which will block the sunlight from the weeds and suffocate them.

    To combat weeds, you can use cardboard boxes with which you need to close the infected places. The light will not reach the plants and they will wither. In addition, over time, getting wet in the rain, the cardboard will serve you like fertilizer.

    In a place where weeds have become dominant, cultivated plants can be planted that can drown out the growth of wild plants. In addition to lawn grass, clover is also suitable for this purpose, which will attract bees to the site. In this case, you can put hives on this site.

    Plant a pumpkin or peas in the problem area. Growing, they will quickly crowd out harmful plants.


    It is worth noting that some weeds can be beneficial. For example, the appearance of chamomile or horsetail on the site will tell you that there is not enough lime in your land. A thicket of buttercup or sedge will indicate to you about excessive moisture in the garden.

    Medicinal species can be found among wild plants. In this case, transfer them to the far corner of the summer cottage: they may come in handy in the future.


    How to kill weeds in your yard

    Apply herbicides only when you are sure that this measure is necessary.

    When and how to apply herbicides

    There are situations in which herbicides do not work on weeds. This happens in several cases:

    • after flowering (when the seeds are already beginning to set),
    • in dry sunny weather,
    • on cold days.

    Based on this, experts consider the end of May - the beginning of June and the end of August to be the best periods for the use of these substances.

    To enhance the effect of herbicides, before processing them, it is necessary to carry out preparation: the lawn must be fed and properly shed. On a well-maintained lawn, herbicides work like a magic wand.

    Here's an example: clover is a weed that is "hungry", without top dressing, is highly resistant to herbicides. It cannot be destroyed without top dressing, therefore FORUMHOUSE consultant lawn mower to combat this weed, he recommends the following algorithm: top dressing - watering - processing in two days.

    Clover is perfectly destroyed by preparations containing 2,4D, but such preparations, approved for use in household plots, are not on sale in most countries of the post-Soviet space. Our expert offers a mixture of lintur and lontrel.

    lawn mowerAgronomist, FORUMHOUSE member

    Remember, the concentration in the tank mixture should be reduced by 10-30%, so if you interfere, then within the limits indicated, and first dissolve the lintur in a separate container.

    And now, to talk about the impact of proper agricultural technology on the effectiveness of herbicides: a member of our portal Yuriych brought out clover with one herbicide (one and a half bags per 5 liters).

    Yuriych Member of FORUMHOUSE

    The third year without clover, and not only without it!

    In the photos below you can compare the same area, before and after herbicide treatment, with and without clover; but in both photos we see a lawn that has been carefully maintained.

    Orhidika FORUMHOUSE member

    Super example - how to do to have a good lawn...

    Another example is a member of our portal Just a grandfather talks about the area on his lawn, which dandelions do not even encroach on, and where moles do not even try to dig holes. This lawn is eight years old, and the well cared for red fescue has in this case acted as a lawn grass that kills weeds: it has crowded out the dandelions!

    It makes no sense to look for special lawn grass that displaces weeds - with proper care and regular mowing, weeds will be displaced by any grass.

    Rhizome grasses crowd out dandelions, especially if they receive support in the form of mowing and top dressing.

    Sodmaster FORUMHOUSE Consultant

    In general, I have wild standards - four weeds per hundred square meters are allowed on the lawn. And nothing, it turns out.

    To meet the "wild standards" helps regular, from the heart, feeding, thanks to which weeds do not withstand the competition with lawn grass, and a haircut twice a week.

    Why didn't the herbicide work?

    After treating the lawn with herbicide, weeds may not happen at all, they will still brazenly stick out of the lawn grass. Here's why it might have happened:

    • you have processed in unsuitable weather, on a drought or rainy day, in windy, cold or hot weather;
    • there are weeds that are resistant to herbicides;
    • low concentration or defective batch of herbicide;
    • weeds so quickly recovered from dormant rhizomes that it seems that the herbicide did not work.

    Each case must be dealt with individually, with the help of an agronomist.

    How to deal with specific weeds

    Woodlouse. Treat with selective herbicides. The woodlice will be killed, but will reappear within a week, and will reappear until the lawn matures and becomes dense. After that, weed seeds will stop germinating through a layer of lawn grass. Until this time, it is recommended to mow the grass at a height of 4-6 cm, be sure to feed and not water very often.

    Budra, veronica, creeping buttercup, yarrow, cuff.

    The appearance of any of these plants on the lawn indicates a lack of top dressing (or its lack of balance). If you adjust the feeding of the lawn, it will become almost impossible for all these plants to survive on it. In the photo above - budra.

    Mice dove, or bristle. This is an annual cereal, in the fields against it drugs are used that are prohibited for private household plots. In our case, it remains to create a dense lawn through regular mowing, and then the seeds of the foxtail will stop germinating, and he himself, like an annual, will simply die.

    Sorrel. Helps herbicide treatment .

    Sodmaster FORUMHOUSE Consultant

    True, I still advise you to first try from the edge and see for a couple of days.

    Sleep. A vicious and almost indestructible infection. This is a dicotyledonous plant, but herbicides can not cope with it because of the dormant rhizomes, which even the roundup does not take. The most effective way to control this weed is to mow your lawn regularly.

    Moss. Moss grows where other plants do not grow, so there is no point in getting rid of it. Knowing this, people often decide to keep the moss, and stimulate its development with kefir.

    Relatives of lawn grasses. Reed fescue, cocksfoot. Relatives of lawn grasses on the lawn are the most problematic weeds. They are removed by hand, but there are such roots that it will not seem enough. It may help to inject undiluted Roundup directly into the middle of the bush.

    Veronica flow (handrail). Resistant to herbicides, but does not tolerate lack of water. Regular top dressing and haircuts with rare watering are recommended. Destruction of veronica If you still decide to use herbicides, then our experts recommend a double dose of lintura, and twice, with an interval of a week.

    Amaranth. With regular, timely mowing, the amaranth will leave your lawn, although at first it will seem that this is not the case and that this weed is indestructible. The lawn needs attention!

    Timofeevka. Herbicide won't do it. Just cut or inject Roundup with a syringe into the middle of the bush.