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How to install laminate flooring on wood floor. How to install laminate flooring on wood floor How to lay laminate flooring on wood floor

13.08.2023

Almost any modern finishing materials can be laid on old wooden floors. This statement also applies to the laminate that is popular these days. True, its installation on a wooden base has a number of features. We will describe them.

Wooden bases and laminate - are they compatible?

Traditionally, laminated boards are mounted on a leveled concrete base. It is ideal for this finishing material. But now many home craftsmen very successfully cover laminate and wood floors. The technology of laying such bases has some differences from the standard technique, due to the structure of natural wood products. Let's deal with them. This is not difficult, since the wooden base differs from the concrete base in only two features:

1. Wood floors are less stable. If we put the laminate on such a base without proper preliminary preparation, the coating will serve us for a very short time. Loose old boards will create an increased load on the locks. They are considered the weakest point of laminated products. It is clear that the destruction of the locks will very quickly lead to the deformation of the entire coating. As a result, instead of a beautiful and practical floor, we will have at our disposal a design that is unattractive in appearance and extremely inconvenient to use.
2. Wood substrates tend to lose their original mechanical characteristics over time. Therefore, before laying the laminate, it is necessary to carefully analyze their condition and, if necessary, replace elements that do not inspire confidence (support bars, logs, and so on).

In addition, the surface of wooden floors in most cases has a lot of bumps and roughness. They are required to be removed.

If we take into account the described features of wood and perform its high-quality preparation, we will be able to correctly lay the laminated products and be confident in the durability of the created coating.

Floor preparation - self-restoration and repair

We have found that laying laminate on an old wooden floor is quite possible. But provided that the latter has a satisfactory condition and meets the following requirements:

1. There are no gaps between the base elements.
2. When moving on the floor, there is no creaking, and the boards do not bend under the weight of a person.
3. There are no traces of wood decay.
4. The floor is fairly level. The permissible height difference for every two meters is no more than 2 mm.

When some areas of the floor base are affected by fungus and mold, it is recommended to replace them. Installing new boards will solve a similar problem. The main thing is to use high-quality and well-dried material. Do not use wet products. New boards after installation will begin to dry out, which will lead to deformation of the coating. If the traces of rotting are insignificant, they can be removed, covered with a waterproofing film on the entire floor, and then moisture-resistant plywood sheets are placed on it. They will protect the surface from moisture and help to make the base as even as possible.

If there are squeaks and deflections, you need to nail the boards to the logs using nails or self-tapping screws that are suitable in size. This type of restoration of the base is available to any self-taught master. In some cases, it is necessary to do minor repairs to the logs on which a wooden base is installed. A similar operation is performed when the support elements "walk" under load. Bricks can be placed under the logs or additional bars can be installed. Also, squeaks can occur due to the friction of the floorboards against each other. The problem is solved by filling the gaps between the individual elements of the floor. There is another option to get rid of squeaks. It involves filling the gaps between the floorboards with talc or graphite chips.

Next, we take a building level 200 cm long and measure the floor base in order to determine the height differences present on it. If they are available (and significant), do not get upset. There are several effective brooms for leveling wood bases. About them further.

Methods for leveling a wooden base - use a suitable

There are two ways to make the floor surface even with your own hands - by scraping and laying particle boards or plywood. The first technique is suitable for bases with insignificant (up to 6 mm per square) bulges, outgrowths and depressions.

Very small local wood defects can be removed with a hand scraper or coarse-grained sandpaper.

It is better to get rid of more serious irregularities covering the entire base or most of it with an electric planer (it cuts off convex areas perfectly) or a grinder. Before using these tools, the wood should be thoroughly cleaned of dust and debris, and the hats of the hardware that protrude to the surface should be sunk into the wood. Nails and screws should not stick out above the base. This is guaranteed to lead to damage to the working knives of the planer, grinding unit.

The procedure for scraping wood flooring is simple. It is necessary to divide the entire floor area into several separate zones and alternately process them with sanding equipment. After grinding each section, we must check the quality of the work performed. When the entire floor is processed, reuse the building level. If we managed to remove high-altitude differences, we remove wood dust and sawdust from the base. The operation is preferably carried out with a broom and a vacuum cleaner. Important! After cleaning, not a single gram of dust should remain on the floor surface. It clogs the locks of laminated boards, which is why they creak mercilessly and make other unpleasant sounds during the operation of the coating.

Irregularities larger than 6 mm cannot be corrected by sanding. We are just wasting our time and energy. In such situations, as was said, you need to level the floors with plywood (as an option - chipboard). We choose material wisely. We buy plywood with a thickness of more than 10 mm with a moisture-resistant coating. Experts advise using sheets marked FK or FSF for living rooms. If planned in a non-residential premises, you can purchase. It has maximum strength and moisture resistance. But for living rooms it is not used, as it is characterized by a low level of environmental safety.

It is advisable to treat plywood sheets with a fungicidal composition or ordinary drying oil. After that, we proceed to leveling. First, we put plastic or wooden wedges under the logs, trying to level out the height differences. Then we cut the plywood sheets into blanks of suitable sizes with a circular saw. It is necessary to calculate in advance how many products will be needed to cover the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe floor base. At the same time, we take into account that plywood is placed in a checkerboard pattern or with some offset. It is unacceptable that the corners of four different workpieces touch at one point.

Plywood blanks are laid indented from the walls (1–1.2 cm) and with a mandatory gap between them (about 2.5 mm). This is done so that the material does not deform during expansion under the influence of changing humidity and temperature conditions in the room. We fix plywood with self-tapping screws. We install them, stepping back from the edge of the blanks by 20 mm. The hardware is screwed along the perimeter of the sheet so that the distance between them does not exceed 20 cm. Some experts advise coating the wooden base with glue before laying the plywood. This operation prevents loosening of old boards. But the use of an adhesive does not eliminate the need for fastening blanks with self-tapping screws.

Underlayment - you can't do without it

Used in a mandatory manner. It is a roll product necessary to prevent contact of the mounted finishing materials with a rough wooden base. Also, the substrate distributes the load on the coating and compensates for them. This achieves the effect of reducing the pressure on the floor. In fact, the use of the described material makes it possible to protect the locks of the laminate from damage and gives the entire coating a level of strength sufficient for normal use. Additional functions of the substrate are the alignment of insignificant height differences, vapor barrier and sound absorption.

Linings for laminated boards are made of different materials:

natural cork;
polyethylene foam;
polyurethane foam;
bitumen sheets.

And are popular. The choice of a particular product is up to you. But remember that experts recommend laying softwood or natural cork underlays on wooden floors. They interact with the base material in the best possible way. It is these linings that should be used when installing an expensive laminate.

The substrates are produced in rolls and in individual sheets. The rules for laying linings do not depend on their shape. Both sheet and roll products are placed end-to-end on the base, and then reinforced with adhesive tape. This prevents the risk of shifting the substrate during the installation of the laminated coating. Notice! It is not necessary to attach lining material to the floor and walls.

Piece by piece laying laminate - technology for dummies

To properly lay a laminate, it is enough to know a few rules. First of all, under these types of cladding, it is not necessary to lay special hydro- and vapor barrier layers. There will be zero sense from them, but a lot of harm. Condensation will begin to accumulate under the insulating films, which in a short time will destroy the structure of the wooden floor. Second moment. Before starting finishing work, you should draw up a layout of laminated panels on the floor. There is no need for an ultra-precise drawing. But a simple freehand sketch will greatly facilitate the calculation of the required amount of material, as well as the process of its installation.

The docking of individual elements of the laminated coating takes place according to two algorithms. The first involves the preliminary assembly of rows of individual dies and their subsequent connection to each other. The second way is to build up each panel separately. This technique is called piecemeal. It is she who is used by almost all self-taught masters, laying the laminate on their own. Let's consider step by step a piece-by-piece method of facing a wooden base:

1. We take four laminate dies, stand in the far corner of the room (in relation to the door).
2. For two panels that are planned to be placed against the wall, cut off the comb. We cut the third board by the amount of displacement of adjacent rows of the laminate to be laid (it is taken within 30–40 cm), do not touch the fourth (leave it intact).
3. We perform docking of dies without a comb. We carry out this part of the work according to the recommendations of the manufacturer of the laminated coating and the type of lock it is equipped with (Lock, Click).
4. We dock the third (cut off) to the resulting structure of two products, and then the uncut one.
5. We lay the resulting part on the place designated for it on the floor. We leave a gap between the assembled segment with mating wall surfaces of about 10 mm. Spacers-gaskets are usually installed in it.
6. We add the fifth die to the first row, cutting off the comb from it, and the sixth we lengthen the next strip.
7. Further, we proceed by analogy until the installation of two complete rows is completed. Remember! The comb facing the wall is always cut off.

Cut off the last dies at the ends of the strips. The dies located in the last rows are fixed with a mounting bracket. We collect the subsequent strips according to the described algorithm. But now there is no need to trim the ridges. We simply join the products according to the groove-thorn system. We cut the dies of the last row to the required dimensions directly at the place of their installation and fix them with a clamp (special bracket).

Last moment. Temperature gaps left near the walls should be covered with plastic plinths after installation is completed. And the gap in the doorway is usually decorated with an aluminum or plastic profile.

Update your old wood floor with modern materials. And enjoy the new interiors of your home. Good luck!

Laminate is a very practical flooring material, today it is one of the most common flooring options. However, when laying it on a wooden surface, difficulties arise that many do not know about.

Therefore, this article will tell you everything about how to properly prepare the floor and what pitfalls may surface during installation.

Laying laminate - what you need to know

What can't you work without? That's right, no tools. Therefore, before we start repairing the floor, let's decide what we need.

Tools and materials for flooring

Drill, jigsaw and screwdriver. The power tool allows you to increase the speed of installation, facilitating manual labor.
Hammer and mallet. Laying a laminate on a wooden floor simply cannot do without them: hammer in nails, knock out a laminate, knock out boards.
Level and roulette.
HDPE or plywood. Used to level floors.
Nails or screws. Necessary for attaching a wooden "screed".
Substrate for laminate. Sold according to location.

Surface work

The answer to the question: "how to lay a laminate on a wooden floor" - begins, first of all, with preparatory work, because the most important thing in this process is a high-quality wooden surface.

Most often, the floor from the boards begins to deform and bend over time, individual elements can loosen.
To troubleshoot, you need to knock down all the old nails, if necessary, use additional fasteners. As for irregularities, they can be identified using the level.

Advice!
If you want to achieve the best result, use a laser device.

Can you lay laminate flooring on a wood floor that is starting to rot? In no case should you work with old and rotten surfaces - the flooring will lie for several years, then it will also begin to rot and deform.

Note!
It is, of course, expensive to re-lay the floorboards, but it is also impossible to leave them, the best option is to trim the existing boards and close them with DVPO sheets: this option will significantly extend the life of the laminate.

As for the removal of floorboards: new boards should lie in the room for a while to acclimatize.
It is undesirable to immediately put them on the floor, temperature changes will begin to bend the tree, which will lead to unevenness.
In order to avoid squeaking - the floorboards are attracted by self-tapping screws, not nails, this process eliminates the possibility of loosening, and therefore - the appearance of unpleasant sounds.
How to properly lay a laminate on a wooden floor when the possibility is excluded by leveling the surfaces? - with small deviations (1-4 mm per meter), such a difference is not terrible, it is easy to fix it with a grinder, or lay it as it is, visually the unevenness (1 cm by 3 meters) will not affect the floor in any way.
Differences over 4 mm can be eliminated with additional linings: plywood, fiberboard.
The use of plywood is mandatory, it replaces the concrete screed.

For your information!
There should be a gap of about 10 mm between the sheets of the substrate, otherwise, when “moving” along the floor, there is a possibility of a squeak. As shown in the photo.

As you can see, preparing a wooden floor for laminate is a rather difficult, labor-intensive process. But it is on him that the final result depends, therefore, it is impossible to hack and carelessly treat any item from the above actions.

I would like to note that the instruction on how to prepare a wooden floor for a laminate is only suitable for conditions where the operating temperature is not lower than 5 degrees, otherwise all work should be stopped before the most favorable time.

Features of laying work

Like any other material, laminate has certain nuances that should be considered when working with it.

In our case, we are on a wooden floor, this is possible, however, in the future, what if you still have to deal with laying flooring somewhere else: laminate planks cannot be mounted on carpet.
As we have already said, it is necessary to have a flat floor. Permissible error 3-4 mm per 1 meter.
Having bought a laminate under a tree, you should give it time to mature so that its surface acclimatizes to the ambient temperature, at least 2 days.

Advice! During these two days, you can do the preparation of the surface.

It should be remembered that on the substrate, which is usually sold complete with flooring. But if you purchased material without a film, then you should take care of it yourself.

Substrate selection

There are several types of materials used for laminate flooring.

Cork backing

Valued for its composition: it consists exclusively of natural materials, no chemical components.
Does not rot, does not spread mold.
Does not deform, retains its original appearance during the entire period of operation.

bituminous substrate

When laying laminate on wooden floors in an apartment, you can also use thick paper in combination with bitumen: this material protects the laminate from moisture and is perfect for uneven floors.

PE foam underlay

The most common and affordable type of all: easy to use and inexpensive to purchase - polyurethane foam film, which isolates the room from external sounds and reduces the amount of lost heat.

There is a small minus: with a strong deformation of the laminate, the substrate is also damaged, after which it no longer returns to its original form - a void is created under the wooden planks.

How to lay laminate on a wooden floor without a substrate? - sometimes this question is asked by buyers in hardware stores. Interestingly, some sellers find something to answer, just to sell the goods. However, remember once and for all: the floor covering does not spread without a substrate, even if the surface is perfectly flat.

Tips of the masters
First of all, it is worth focusing on the cost of the product, if the price is too low, then this should arouse suspicion: promotions are far from charity on the part of the company, but a subtle marketing ploy, do not forget about it. Choose a good quality product.
All joints of the film and substrate plates must be sealed with masking tape or adhesive tape to prevent moisture ingress.
Lay the film in stages, in those places where you are going to lay the laminate, so as not to walk on it and accidentally damage it.

Laminate floor installation

So we have moved on to the most basic point that requires attention and composure: each action will affect the final result, so be careful and strictly follow all the instructions described below.

Do-it-yourself installation of laminate on a wooden floor can be done in several ways:

Click system

The workflow starts from any corner opposite the front door: along the entire perimeter, along the walls, wedges (pieces of plywood) 1 cm thick are installed.
This is necessary to create a wall gap so that the laminate can expand and contract freely later.

Reminder!

After the completion of the laying work, the wedges are removed.

The very first panel is placed in a corner, pressed against the installed wedges.
We continue the row with the second panel, which joins the first one at an angle of 20-30 degrees: pressing the ends tightly, with a slight pressure we snap the lock and lower the laminate board.

Can flooring be laid at right angles? With a click-system, it is impossible, the lock will not work and, most likely, the end part will be deformed.

We spread the row until we hit the wall / door. The last panel is trimmed to fit the remaining gap.
The next row begins with a cut piece, this is how the checkerboard effect is created.

Note! You can cut the required amount from the new panel to create the pattern you want.

The length of the laminate also snaps into a sharp 30-degree angle.

Lock system

This method will answer the question of how to lay a laminate on a wooden floor vertically and diagonally.

The workflow starts from the corner opposite the door.
The second panel is brought horizontally to the first panel (to the short end), inserted into the groove and tapped with a mallet.
Along the long end, we knock the already pre-assembled row to the existing panels.

Try to use a mallet or hammer from the bars, it reduces the risk of damaging the laminate.

Glued laminate

Another way that can answer the question of how to lay the flooring yourself, without a special tool and skill.

There are no special notes for mounting on glue, but there are some points that you should know about in advance.

Glue at the joints of the panels best isolates the base of the laminate from moisture, thereby extending the operational life of the floor covering.
Before such a floor can be walked on, it is necessary to wait 10-12 hours at room temperature without creating drafts.
It is no longer possible to reuse such a surface: during dismantling, most of the panels will be damaged.

The final stage

Now you know how to lay laminate on a wood floor yourself, saving money on the construction crew.

But do not forget about the maintenance and care of the flooring.

Avoid getting abundant moisture on the panel joints.
Put something soft under the sharp corners of the legs of sofas and other interior items.
Keep an eye on the humidity in the room: with sudden changes in temperature and increased dryness, the laminate can disperse, gaps form, which will be problematic to eliminate, you will have to disassemble the floor.

On this, the answer to the question whether it is possible to lay a laminate on a wooden floor is considered exhaustive, all the necessary information has been given above. For those who still have misunderstandings of the workflow, we suggest watching a video: how to properly lay a laminate on a wooden floor, with a detailed description of each step.

Subject to a number of conditions, you can easily lay the laminate on the wooden floor yourself and get a smooth and very beautiful finish.

Previously, laminated boards were mounted exclusively on a concrete base. Nowadays, there is a simple technology that allows you to lay a laminate on a wooden floor. At its core, it is not much different from the scheme for installing such a coating on a leveled sand-cement mixture. It is only necessary to take into account some features of the plank bases. And then laying with your own hands will pass without a hitch.

Laminate flooring installation

The wood base has two key features. Over time, they lose their original characteristics and change their geometric parameters. Therefore, before laying a laminate on an old wood floor, you should carefully analyze the logs, support bars and boards. If their condition leaves much to be desired, it is imperative to prepare the base for the installation of a laminated coating.

Plank foundations are not stable and truly sustainable. In this regard, even minor shifts of laminated panels cause additional load on their locks. This causes deformation of the coating during its operation.

If you want the laminate to please you with its smooth and elegant surface, eliminate all defects in the plank base in advance. How to do it yourself, we will discuss further.

The first step is to identify uneven areas of the floor. Perform this operation using the building level (it is even better to use a laser tool). You can level the old plank floor with your own hands using several methods.

Scraping is suitable for bases with small irregularities (about 4–6 mm per floor square). Scraping is performed with an electric planer or sandpaper (if all defects in the wooden base are located in one area). Before starting the operation, it is necessary to drown all fasteners (for example, nails) into the wood so as not to damage the knives of the planer or hand scraper, which can also be used to level the floor. Without fail, control the quality of grinding work and the plane after processing each individual section of the base. After cycling, you should once again check the level of the floor surface.

floor scraping

When leveling with chipboard (chipboard) or plywood, it is recommended to use sheets of relatively large thickness (about 1.5–2 cm). Treat plywood or chipboard with a fungicide or ordinary drying oil, carefully align the wooden base by lining plastic or wooden wedges under the logs. Plywood sheets must first be cut with a special circular saw to the required dimensions, and then laid on a rough base. After that, you check the resulting difference in planes and, if necessary, place small wooden slats under the sheets of leveling material. Attached chipboard and plywood.

Often there is a need for a small repair of a wooden base on which you want to lay laminated boards with your own hands. Such work is done simply:

when the coating sags, support special wedges should be installed under the wooden logs;
rotten boards are replaced;
gaps and cracks are treated with putty;
shaky boards are fixed with self-tapping screws;
when both the logs and the boards on them stagger, you need to fix the supporting elements (press the logs at the base with anchors).

After repair, do not forget to very carefully clean the base from debris and fine dust. Use a vacuum cleaner.

Laying laminate requires the use of underlays. They can be made from:

bitumen;
polyurethane foam;
eco-friendly natural cork material;
foil;
polypropylene (foamed).

Laying allows you to hide minor irregularities in the subfloor, and also provides the effects of heat saving, noise and sound insulation. It is important to choose the right lining material. For wooden bases, experts recommend using cork linings that interact well with wood. However, you can put less expensive products made of polypropylene or polyurethane foam.

Laying laminate flooring

Note! It is necessary to lay the substrate on a pre-mounted polyethylene film. It performs a waterproofing function. The film is laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm (or more). And the installation of the substrate itself is carried out end-to-end.

To fix the lining, construction tape is usually used (gluing is done in solid lines or periodic points). It is not necessary to fix the substrate to the wall surfaces and to the floor base.

Installation of laminated panels, start from the corner that is farthest from the door to the maximum distance. Laying the first row of products is carried out horizontally, and it is carried out at the joints of the laminate.

During installation, control the position of the laminated boards in relation to the wall. They must lie absolutely flat.

Important point! Laying panels on the boards is carried out perpendicular to the location of the latter. You also need to provide a gap between the laminated products and the wall. To do this, simply mount the limiters. They can be made from wood or plastic.

Do-it-yourself laminate flooring

After the first correctly laid out row rests against the wall, take an electric jigsaw and cut off part of the panel. Then start laying the next row. At the same time, at the ends, its joints should not coincide with the joints of the products of the previous line. To achieve this, you need to take a new product, cut off about a third of it and start mounting the second row (similar to the first).

Consider the following nuance. It is necessary to fasten together all the panels of the second row and only after that they are docked with the products of the first line. It is allowed to tamp the laminate with an ordinary hammer. But at the same time, it is imperative to use a fuse bar so as not to damage the panels.

The next steps are clear. Mount all rows in the same way. Keep an eye on the gaps between the laminate and the walls. Products of the last row will need to be cut to length.

You managed to put the laminated boards on your own! Now remove the limiters installed at the very beginning of the installation work, and proceed with the installation of the skirting board. To mask cut sections, it is recommended to use laminate plugs.

The final touch is the installation of the door sill. This element is installed so that the height difference between individual rooms is visually invisible.

Wood floor finishes vary. A suitable option would be a wood coating, as natural material will remain environmentally friendly and harmoniously fit into the interior. The wooden surface is pleasant to the touch and keeps heat for a long time. In addition, the material is easy to install and process. You can easily achieve the desired color, shade or shine.

As a rule, the laminate is laid on a leveled concrete screed. However, you can also lay the material on wood flooring. In this article, we will look at how to properly lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor.

Features of installing laminate

Locks are installed on the sides of the laminate plates, which, during installation, must fit snugly with the adjacent board. Therefore, you can only lay a laminate on a wooden floor on a hard, even surface. If the flooring is uneven, the locks will quickly wear out and disperse, and gaps will form at the joints. This leads to deformation and damage to the material. The technology of laying laminate on a wooden floor allows a surface difference of 1 mm to two meters.

Thus, the floorboards must be free of cracks, rot and other noticeable damage. They must have a sufficient margin of safety and a flat surface without knots, depressions and protrusions, not sag under load and not creak.

If you plan to lay laminate on an old wooden floor, the surface is pre-leveled and the boards are replaced if they are rotten or creaking. Let's take a closer look at how to prepare the coating and how to properly lay the laminate on a wooden floor.

Wood floor preparation

Before laying a laminate on a wooden floor, it is important to eliminate board deflections, squeaks and other defects. To do this, the logs are firmly fixed to the concrete base, and then the floorboards are rigidly connected to each other. First, floorboards are laid across the log and fixed with screws or nails. When the boards and logs are fixed, the wobbly boards are additionally fastened with another material. You can take chipboard with a thickness of over 15 mm.

Chipboard should be laid on top of the floor boards and secured with self-tapping screws. Before installation on a chipboard plate, a grid with cells of 10X10 centimeters is marked. The fastening of materials is done along the lines of intersection of the grid and the plates are laid at a distance of 3-5 mm from each other. Such a gap is necessary so that the wooden slabs can expand if necessary without deforming the floor.

After laying the chipboard panels, the floor area is sanded in overlapping strips of 10 centimeters. If the floor is new and even, then it is possible to install the laminate on the floor without plywood immediately on a wooden base. However, before starting work, the surface must be leveled with a grinder. And now let's take a closer look at how to lay a laminate on a wooden floor.

Types of fastening laminate

Before laying a laminate on a wooden floor, it is important to choose the right material and method of connection. The boards are divided according to the type of castle. The “Lock” connection system assumes that the tongue and groove are located in the same horizontal plane. In this case, the laminate boards are laid horizontally, inserting the spike into the groove. This connection characterizes ease of installation. But it is not very strong, as the spikes can break off. Therefore, experts do not recommend using this type of laminate.

The "Click" system is stronger and more reliable. It implies a three-dimensional design, in which the panels are laid at a certain angle. This is the most popular connection, which is durable and long service life. In addition, the coating can be easily disassembled if necessary.

For kitchens and rooms with high humidity choose adhesive laminate. It forms a single monolithic surface, which is characterized by high density and strength. But the installation of such materials is complicated by the fact that glue must be applied to the lock joints. This surface is not applicable to underfloor heating! In addition, the resulting surface can be used no earlier than 10 hours after installation.

The technology of laying laminate on a wooden floor

After leveling, the floor surface is covered with a waterproofing film to protect wooden materials from decay, mold and mildew;
Then a 3 mm thick substrate is installed. The substrate is made in strips of cork or polypropylene and mounted butt-to-butt, then fixed with construction tape or tape;
The installation of the laminate is carried out from the window to the front door, starting from the corner. The first row is placed in the gap from the wall 8-10 mm from the walls, and a wedge is placed between the wall and the material. Such a gap is needed to compensate for the expansion of wooden plates during temperature or humidity changes;
The first row is laid completely and starts with a whole panel. The second row starts half of the board. It also fits to the end. Thus, even rows start with whole panels, and odd rows start with half;
If the “Click” lock is used, each next row is placed in the end lock to the previous one at an angle of 25 degrees. To do this, the last board of the first row must be cut;
Each next row of laminated panels is placed with a displacement of the joints of the previous one by 40 centimeters or more;
After installing the laminate around the perimeter, the wedges are removed between the material and the wall, and then the plinth is installed.

Final work

After the work is completed, the skirting boards are installed. In this case, it is important to fix the skirting board only to the wall and not to the laminate boards! Experts recommend choosing only wooden planks. Such products will harmoniously complement the design, give the room a finished look and preserve the naturalness of the floor. Before installation, the materials are left in the room for two to three days so that they “get used” to the temperature and humidity in the room.

Products are laid along the walls as they should be installed. Installation starts from one of the corners. When attaching, make sure that the skirting board fits as tightly as possible to the wall. On the one hand, the first bar is sawn at an angle, and on the other, for connection. Washed down for connection is made at an angle of 45 degrees. The rest of the skirting boards are also laid, making cuts and attaching to the wall with self-tapping screws.

Skirting boards after installation are puttied and varnished. Laminate does not need to be varnished! The plates are already covered with a protective film that cannot absorb liquid materials. In addition, the material may crack in some places due to the application of varnish.

Laying laminate on a wooden floor with your own hands requires care and accuracy in work. It is important to lay the slabs correctly, the service life of the flooring will depend on this. If the work is done illiterately, soon the products will begin to move away from each other, the surface will become uneven and ugly. In addition, water can penetrate into the cracks, as a result, the wooden floor is deformed and becomes unusable. To avoid such problems, contact the professionals!

Masters of "MariSrub" will perform work on the installation and finishing of the floor in a wooden house, including laying the laminate. We guarantee quality and reliability! Have you decided to build your country cottage or country house from a log or timber? We offer a full range of works, which includes the installation of a log house, the construction of a foundation and a roof, the installation of a floor and a ceiling, the installation of engineering networks and final finishing. We build wooden houses on a turnkey basis and for shrinkage under an individual or standard project.

Experts note that the best basis for laying laminate flooring is a concrete floor. However, it is not available in all homes. And in wooden houses it is generally impossible to find a concrete base (the only exception can be the first floor, when the concrete floor is poured onto the ground).

Owners of houses with wooden floors should not be disappointed, because laminate flooring can be laid on such a base without difficulty. Of course, the wooden flooring requires keeping some secrets in mind. Most of them relate to the diagnosis and preparation of the base.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the features of the tree. It has the ability to lose its performance properties over time. Basically, it loses its strength. Therefore, after decades, the boards begin to sag, creak and even break. Moisture and insects cause such consequences. Therefore, the wooden base does not have such stability as. But the fact that the shelf life of laminated boards is equal to or less (depending on the class and manufacturer) than the life of the tree allows you to safely lay the laminate on a wooden floor, following the advice from special videos.

Diagnosis and preparation of the floor from wood

Given the above, the diagnosis of sex is a must, especially if it was created many years ago.

Condition of the old floor

The steps for evaluating any wooden floor on top of which laminate flooring will be installed are the same. They consist in checking the condition of boards, logs and beams. The first ones are enough to inspect to identify cracks, holes created by a wormhole, and it’s also worth getting up on top or knocking to determine the integrity of the board (if the sound is deaf, then it is rotten or has become a home for insects). To evaluate the lag, you need to perform additional steps. They are especially in demand in cases where the floor is old. In the case when the installation of the floor took place recently and correctly, it is enough to evaluate the floorboards.

Replacing old boards

To make an assessment of the frame, you need to remove several floorboards. Often, experts recommend removing everything. This should only be done when all the boards have gone bad. In most cases, you can shoot boards (bad ones are best) with a certain step. Its value can be 0.5-1 meter. It is desirable that the torn floorboard be wide. So you can get enough space to inspect those parts of the log that are under other boards. You can assess the condition of the frame using a mirror and a flashlight or by touch.

If the frame is in order, then rotten, unusable floorboards can be replaced. Boards with surface damage are torn off, turned over and nailed.

Loose material is strengthened. If the lag or beam is loosened, they also need to be fixed. When there is a concrete base under it, a hole is drilled in the timber and the base. Next, using an anchor, fix the loosened part. Cracks or holes in durable boards are filled with putty.

Tsiklevka

Next, proceed to. In case of problems with the frame, you need to disassemble the entire structure and change unusable parts according to the instructions from special videos.

It is important not only the strength of the wooden floor, but also evenness. On two square meters there should not be differences exceeding two millimeters. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to the deflection of the laminate and the destruction of its locks. Therefore, laying laminate on an uneven floor is unacceptable. The presence of differences is detected using a level.

There are several ways to eliminate the problem with drops.

Cyclevka.
Plank underlay.
Using plywood or chipboard.

It is recommended to cycle the floor when the difference in one square meter is less than 6 mm. Scraping is carried out using a grinder. Before this process, the head of each nail must be drowned to the depth of the largest drop. In this way, metal contact with the tool can be avoided. To perform the cutting of the protruding parts correctly, the cultivated area is divided into several sections. They also learn additional secrets with the help of special videos.

After leveling is completed, all dust is collected with a vacuum cleaner.

It is necessary to lay wooden planks under the boards if there are differences greater than 6 millimeters. Of course, for this the floorboard needs to be torn off. After leveling, you can carry out the scraping.

Fanner installation

When laying laminate on an uneven floor is not possible, plywood or chipboard is also used. With the help of them create a new smooth surface. Its installation involves the use of plywood with a thickness of more than 15 millimeters.

Before laying plywood, eliminate differences in the floor by placing wedges under the logs. After this, it is necessary to treat the flooring with a fungicide or drying oil. This is to prevent the development of fungi and mold.

When laying plywood, if necessary, planks of wood are used. They should be laid where there are differences. Sheets or squares of material must be laid so that the joints of the four parts do not form a cross. If necessary, the sheets are cut with a circular saw for wood. The last step in preparing the floor is to fix the plywood. The process is simple and is often demonstrated in videos.

Thanks to this preparation, floor irregularities are eliminated.

Substrate laying

The nuances of laying the substrate

The substrate must be laid because it is able to compensate for the minimum unevenness of the base, to exclude the movement of heat and sound. Waterproofing materials are not placed under it or on top of it, since moisture accumulates under them, which leads to rotting of the floor.

Under the laminate on a wooden floor put: