How to deal with raspberry fly. Raspberry fly - how to deal with it? Crimson stem fly how to deal with it

I faced the same problem twice. The first time I had no idea how to deal with this pest, and missed the moment.

My raspberries were on the verge of death, I had to use chemicals ... The second time I met with a raspberry fly in another, new dacha. But by that time I already knew her well. In addition, kind people advised me how to properly deal with this infection. And the second time I defeated the pest without any chemicals!

What is a raspberry fly and how to deal with it

The raspberry fly is such a small, up to 5 mm long, gray insect. To deal with it effectively, you need to know the development cycle of this insect.

The female fly in the spring, somewhere in mid-May, lays her eggs in the axils of the leaves of young raspberry shoots. After some time (about a week), larvae appear from the eggs, which gnaw through the stem and settle there, after which the top of the young shoot fades, turns black and dries up.

If you break or cut the stem at the fold, you will see the pest's habitat there - a brown wormhole and a small white worm.

By the beginning or during the flowering of raspberries, the larva makes a move in the stem and leaves it, going into the soil for wintering. The fly pupa hibernates in cocoons in the upper soil layer, at a depth of up to 6 cm, under raspberry bushes. In the spring, in mid-May, a fly appears from the cocoon - its flight coincides with the period of growth of young shoots.

The fly in mid-May again lays its eggs in the axils of the leaves, and the cycle repeats. How do I deal with stem fly?

1. Since her chrysalis hibernates in the upper layers of the soil at a depth of up to 6 cm, in the fall I dug up the ground around the raspberry bush - carefully, shallowly, so as not to damage the roots. This is necessary so that the pupae freeze and die in winter.

2. In early spring, the ground under the bushes was mulched with rotted manure with a layer of 8-10 cm (no less!) So that the flies that hatched from the remaining pupae could not crawl out of the thick layer of soil.

3. In addition, I constantly watched, i.e. examined raspberry bushes, especially young shoots. And if she noticed a faded one, she immediately cut it off at the base, as close as possible to the roots, and burned it. If the young shoot reached a decent height in growth and it was a pity to cut it off (and as a rule, the fly infects the very first, strongest shoots), cut off only the top of the head and examined the place of the cut. If she found a hole in it (the move made by the larva), she cut off the shoot down to a healthy, undamaged stem by the larva. Then, replacement shoots grow from the sinuses of this bush, develop and bear fruit.

I was convinced that the method of inspecting young shoots and timely removal of the affected ones (before the fly has not yet gone into the soil) is the most effective.

4. Weak, fly-damaged shoots were cut out at the very root and burned. Strong, but also damaged, she left and cut off the damaged stem down to a healthy one, capturing a little healthy stem. The cut damaged stem was burned. You can't be late with pruning!

This is how I saved the raspberry bushes. A year after these procedures, the affected shoots became much smaller, and a year later, not a single one remained! Within two years, I completely got rid of the raspberry stem fly. Currently, I spray the bushes only once, in the spring, during the ovary of green berries, with a solution of tea soda (2 tablespoons of soda for 10 liters of water). Berries are always clean.

Processing raspberries in spring with copper sulphate

It is important! It is necessary to spray the young shoots before the raspberries bloom and not miss the moment when the fly larvae leave the stem into the soil. Perhaps you missed this moment.

I have already said that when I first encountered the raspberry stem fly, I had no experience, and I had to resort to chemicals. So, in the fall, after digging, I sprayed the soil under the raspberries and the bushes themselves with Bordeaux liquid.

In the spring, during the period of raspberry growth, I sprayed the shoots with an insecticide. You need to spray before flowering! If you do this later, you can be late, because the larvae of the fly during flowering and even before it begins to go into the soil to winter. I cut out the affected shoots.

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - with your own hands"

In the process of growing raspberries, various pests can affect. One of them is the raspberry fly. Its invasion can lead to significant crop losses. What is a raspberry fly and how to get rid of it? Let's consider in more detail.

The life cycle of the pest and signs of damage

The raspberry stem fly is a small brown-gray insect. The length of the pest is 6-7 mm. It can damage bushes not only raspberries, but also blackberries.

The pest becomes active in late spring. During this period, the fly begins to multiply, laying eggs in the axils of the stems. Each time the insect produces one egg. This is manifested by the withering of the shoot. However, not the entire stem wilts, but only the part that is located above the masonry site. Later, larvae emerge from the eggs. If you have time to remove the affected parts of the shoot, the bush will develop normally. The formation of larvae occurs within 5-8 days, which is determined by weather conditions. The higher the air temperature, the faster they develop.

The larvae are highly aggressive. They make moves in the stems, as a result of which the latter gradually wither and eventually die. Upon closer examination, bluish rings are visible on the branches. After 2-3 weeks, the larvae move into the ground. There they spend the entire cold period, and when it warms up, they turn into adults, after which the cycle repeats.

How to deal with a pest?

Many gardeners are wondering how to deal with a raspberry fly? First of all, pest control consists in pruning and burning the damaged parts of the plant. In addition, control methods include the treatment of bushes with special solutions.

We get rid of the pest with the help of synthetic means. The most commonly used drugs are:

• "Spark". It is used to destroy not only the raspberry fly, but also other pests. It is a tablet that must be dissolved in 10 liters of water, after which the raspberries should be treated with the resulting solution. This event should be held in the early morning or after sunset. Otherwise, the solution will dry quickly and the effect will be negligible.
• Karfofos is a pesticide that can destroy the raspberry fly. Due to its high toxicity, it is not recommended to use it during flowering. To get rid of the raspberry fly, you need to process the bush twice.
• "Actellik" is a remedy that damages the digestive system of a fly. Sold in ampoules. To prepare the solution, you need to dissolve one ampoule in 2 liters of water.
• "Confidor" operates systematically. The drug is safe for humans, but has a negative effect on bees.
• "Agravertin" is a completely natural drug that destroys the gastrointestinal tract of the pest. Can be used multiple times. Most effective at temperatures from 10 to 18 degrees. They process raspberries after sunset.
• "Fitoverm" helps to get rid of the raspberry stem fly within 1 week. If spraying is carried out in the summer, before processing raspberries, you need to remove them from the berry.

You can also fight the raspberry fly with the help of folk remedies. There is no scientific confirmation of the effectiveness of such compounds against this pest. However, there are many reviews of experienced gardeners indicating their high efficiency. According to one of them, a woman fought a raspberry stem fly with Bordeaux liquid. She simply watered the soil around the bush with it and in this way got rid of the annoying pest.

In addition, methods of struggle include a complex effect. Simultaneously with the Bordeaux mixture, the insecticides described above are used.

Preventive actions

The main method of prevention is the proper care of raspberry bushes. About 2 times a month you need to carefully inspect the plants. At the slightest sign of damage by a raspberry fly, treatment should be started immediately. In addition, you need to follow the feeding schedule, because with a lack of nutrients, the bush weakens and is more often affected by pests.

Another important measure is preventive spraying. Many are interested in how to treat bushes for protective purposes? For spraying, the same means are used as for treatment, only in this case, the treatment is carried out no more than 1 time per month.

We examined the features of the life cycle of the raspberry fly and measures to combat it. The gardener should remember that the sooner treatment is started, the more likely it is to save the bush and not lose the crop.

Sadly, but for every garden dweller there is at least one pest. For example, the crop of sweet fragrant archipelago raspberries is threatened by the raspberry stem fly. The object of her attacks are young shoots, which means that the fruitfulness of the bushes is threatened in principle. Unfortunately, this fly is not the only enemy of the raspberry, but in this article we will talk about it.

It is important to recognize in time

If your raspberries “hung their ears”, that is, the tops lose their healthy appearance, look around, most likely the cause is a fly on the raspberries. The general portrait of this insect can be described as follows:

• an adult individual is a small insect in length not exceeding 5 mm;
• gray color;
• hibernates as a pupa;
• It causes the greatest damage to plants at the larval stage.

Maliciousness

The departure of the insect occurs at the very time when young shoots grow on raspberries - this is the second decade of May. Further development phases continue as follows:

• the female makes egg laying in the axils of the apical sheets - 1 egg under one sheet;
• very soon caterpillar larvae appear, which, in order to get to the base of the shoot, having penetrated the stem, gnaw through a spiral passage;
• when the raspberry blossoms, the insect larva leaves the stem, pupates and digs into the top layer of soil under the bush.

Damaged stems, starting from the top, wither, turn black, rot and die.

Control measures

Preventive

• So, the most important information for the gardener is the fly departure time. To prevent this process, it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying with chemicals or self-made products. At the same time, we emphasize: the use of chemicals is indicated when 50% of the plants in the raspberry are damaged.
• A very effective measure is the autumn digging of the soil under the bushes. Wintering grounds will be destroyed and populations will suffer significant damage.
• After the raspberries drop their leaves, they must be collected, removed from the garden and burned.
• The effectiveness of soil mulching has also been proven - the height of a layer of peat or compost is 8 cm and hilling with ordinary earth, at least 3 cm.
• Careful inspection will allow timely detection of damaged shoots. It is necessary to cut off the top, if the passage gnawed by the larva is visually determined, then the stem is cut off completely. That is why in the fall raspberries are subject to mandatory pruning.
• It is important to observe the agricultural technology of the culture - do not allow thickening of plantings, do not allow the growth of weeds, timely top dressing will give health and resistance to pests.

Aggressive control of the raspberry stem fly

"Spark"

Insecticide against a wide range of pests, including effective against the raspberry stem fly. It is supplied to the consumer in the form of a tablet weighing 1 g. To achieve the expected effect, spraying should be done with a solution freshly prepared according to the recipe indicated on the package. It should not be hot outside - it is better to perform events in the evening or in cloudy, but not rainy weather. One tablet is enough to prepare 10 liters of a liquid drug that kills the raspberry fly.

Karbofos

Moderately toxic pesticide against sap-sucking and leaf-eating pests. Dangerous for bees, therefore, during the flowering period, the drug should not be used. The working fluid must be prepared immediately before spraying. The air temperature should not be lower than +15 C, this should be done in the evening. Mixing with other drugs is prohibited. Multiplicity of processing - 2 times. It is not recommended to use the product before rain.

Examine the raspberries more often - you will definitely notice the pest

"Aktellik"

Phosphorus organic non-systemic, affecting the gastrointestinal tract of the pest. It is supplied to the retail network in a concentrated form - 2-gram ampoules with an emulsion or 5-liter canisters. Recipe for the preparation of the working mixture: the contents of the ampoule are diluted in 2 liters of water. Raspberries are processed with this composition. If the infection is serious, then the composition can be made more concentrated - 1 ampoule per 1 liter of water. Dangerous for bees - do not use during flowering.

"Confidor"

Low-toxic, highly effective insecticide characterized by systemic and contact action. The drug seeps through all parts of the plant - foliage, stem, root. It is washed off very poorly and even in the heat provides a high degree of protection in the period from 5 to 15 days. Dangerous for bees, so spraying should be done in the evening or morning hours, when beneficial insects do not fly.

Biologicals

"Agravertin"

Extract from the soil fungus streptomyces, infused with alcohol. Means of contact-intestinal action. In this form, it can be stored for 2 years, but the aqueous solution used for spraying garden and garden plants should be used immediately for its intended purpose. It does not cause addiction in pests, in case of heat the protective function only intensifies, but at temperatures below +18 C, the effectiveness weakens.

"Fitoverm"

Broad spectrum biological insecticide and acaricide. It is used when identifying a pest on raspberries. It does not act instantly - the destructive effect can be observed in 5-8 days. The last treatment is allowed no later than 2 days before harvesting. Not dangerous for bees. It is better to apply in the evening.

Folk methods of struggle: Bordeaux liquid

The specificity of the pest is such that self-prepared spray formulations that are effective against other insects do not affect the raspberry fly. However, gardeners are constantly looking for their own ways to get rid of this insidious enemy. For example, Oksana Koklyushkina, in a commentary on an article about fighting a sawfly on a gooseberry, shares her own way of dealing with a raspberry stem fly. She claims that it is enough to shed the soil in the fall and there will be no problems with pests on raspberry bushes, and there will be no gooseberry bushes either.

From our point of view, there is a positive meaning in the use of this substance, however, in our opinion, simply pouring the soil with a liquid solution is clearly not enough. Most likely, the reader uses some kind of insecticidal preparation for spraying, and additionally treats the soil with the aforementioned agent.

As a reference. Bordeaux liquid is a mixture of copper sulfate (better known as) with lime milk. In horticulture, this drug has been used for a very long time, but primarily in the fight against diseased trees, shrubs, grapes, roses. Its effectiveness has been proven in the elimination of fruit rot, rust, scab, stem cancer, gray rot, septoriasis, cocomycosis, etc. Bordeaux liquid can also be used against pests, only before flowering at the stage of bud break.

If you have anything to add to the recommendations on how to get rid of the raspberry stem fly, write in the comments to the article. We look forward to a lively dialogue and exchange of views. There are critical comments - leave them as well. Any opinion of readers is important to us, since the idea of ​​​​creating a blog is to collect useful information about a particular pest and how to deal with it.

One of the most unpleasant pests found in the forest belt and in the expanses of the forest-steppe is the so-called "raspberry fly". The insect can reach a length of up to 7 millimeters, has a gray color and black paws. The larvae look like pale worms about 5 millimeters long. The eggs are oval in shape, also white, up to 0.2 millimeters in size.

This is a very prolific insect, each female is able to lay up to 90 eggs per season.

Harm inflicted

Contrary to the name, this pest infects not only raspberry bushes, but also plant species similar to it - meadowsweet, blackberry, meadowsweet, etc. Adult flies gnaw through plant shoots all the way to the ground surface, where they lay their eggs.

You can easily detect the "activity" of the raspberry fly on the site by changing the shade of the vegetation:

• leaves become reddish, yellow, bronze or purple;
• grooves of a specific type appear on the shoots - either at the top or along the entire length;
• the stems begin to dry out, they do not bear fruit or even die.

Therefore, every gardener and summer resident needs to know how to deal with a raspberry fly.

So, special vigilance should be observed from about mid-May.

All measures to combat these pests can be divided into preventive and radical.

Preventive actions

A very good effect is given by the autumn digging of the earth under the bushes at risk.

1. After the raspberry bush drops its leaves, it must be collected and burned.
2. Good results are obtained by mulching the soil with a compost or peat layer height of 8 centimeters and hilling with earth about 3 centimeters in height.
3. You should regularly inspect the bushes in search of damaged shoots. When a move made by a pest is detected, such a stem is completely removed.
4. At the beginning of swelling of the kidneys, it is necessary to treat the plant with the Iskra preparation based on 10 bushes - 2 liters of solution (one tablet!).
5. During the period of regrowth of the stems, from time to time spray them with insecticidal specialized preparations: Karbofos, Ambush, Aktelik, Etaphos.

Additional preventive measures are strict observance of the norms of agrotechnical culture:

• preventing thickening of landings;
• weed control;
• timely feeding.

Regular implementation of the above preventive measures reduces the risk of damage to the site by raspberry flies to almost zero.

Radical measures

More recently, the only method of dealing with the raspberry fly was the complete pruning of the bushes, "under the root." Naturally, the fight against it with such measures led to a decrease in the volume of the crop, and it was necessary to wait for the restoration of the bushes for more than one year.

You should also know that if the pest has already reached the ground, then even such a measure does not always save if the fly has already managed to give birth.

An alternative to the described method is the complex technology often used today, which includes not only ways to influence the pest, but also increased care for planting berry bushes. So, what should be done in such cases:

1. Locate any damaged stems.
2. Cut them to a length of about half a meter, or only damaged areas, capturing a small part of a healthy shoot.
3. Burn all scraps immediately.

In the latter case, it is extremely important not to hesitate in order to prevent the pest from reaching the soil, where the females could lay their eggs and give birth to the next generation.

Once again, it is worth repeating that in the case of raspberry flies, the timely adoption of preventive measures is much more effective and requires less effort and time than the fight for bushes already affected by the pest.

Spring is a favorable time for arranging a plot with raspberries. Regardless of the variety, it must be protected from diseases and pests, cut, fed, watered. Only with good care, raspberries please with a plentiful and tasty harvest.

Bushes are processed at the beginning of the growing season and during budding (5-7 days before flowering).

During the flowering of raspberries, any preventive or therapeutic measures should be excluded. The processing of bushes during this period leads to the death of pollinating insects and, as a result, to a deterioration in the yield.

What to process

Processing is carried out both with chemical preparations (urea, copper sulfate, dolomite flour, Bordeaux liquid), and folk remedies (mustard, soda, boiling water, infusions of herbs and flowers).

To strengthen the plants, urea treatment is performed in early spring. 15-20 grams are taken per square meter. Urea saturates the bushes with nitrogen and makes them less susceptible to disease.

Processing raspberries with copper sulfate avoids the appearance of fungal diseases (gray rot, anthracnose). Raspberry stalks and the soil around the bushes are processed. For spraying, 50 grams of vitriol is taken per 5 liters of water.

During the growing season and during the active growth of the plant, treatment with copper sulphate cannot be performed. It accumulates in berries and stems.

In the fight against anthracnose, rust and powdery mildew, the treatment of bushes with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or ferrous sulfate, Topaz, Nitrofen helps.

The main reasons for the development of infections are high humidity and high acidity of the soil. Reducing watering reduces moisture. Acidity can be reduced with wood ash, slaked lime, dolomite flour. 150 grams are taken per square meter.

Mustard protects raspberries from weevil larvae.

For spraying, 20 grams of dry mustard is taken per 10 liters of water, everything is mixed and infused for 12 hours. Spraying of bushes is carried out in several visits.

Instead of mustard, you can take baking soda, 2 tablespoons should be diluted in 10 liters of water.

Processing the bushes and the root circle with boiling water allows you to get rid of most pests. The procedure is performed after the snow melts and the soil warms up.

With a small area of ​​damage, raspberry beetle larvae can be harvested by hand. Before flowering, it is treated with an infusion of bitter wormwood and marigolds. When using Agravertin and Agravertin, the treatment is performed twice.

During budding, raspberries can be sprayed with tansy infusion.

For infusion, 350 grams of dry grass or a kilogram of freshly harvested raw materials, 5 liters of water are taken. Tansy is infused for a day, then boiled for half an hour, filtered and diluted with the same amount of water.

Mulching with pine needles protects against weevil and gray rot.

The main pests and diseases of raspberries with photos, descriptions and control measures

Pests

The main pests of raspberries are:

• stem gall,
• raspberry beetle,
• stem fly,
• weevil,
• spider mite,
• kidney moth,
• raspberry nutcracker,
• raspberry glass.

The presence of swellings on the stems and shoots of raspberries indicates that the plant is affected by stem gall midge. Such shoots are cut and burned.

For prevention in early spring, the soil is loosened to a depth of 5-10 centimeters and sprayed with karbofos or Fufanon.

During the appearance of buds, re-treatment with Fufanon or Actellik is performed.

Aphids feed on plant sap and accumulate on the lower part of the foliage. To destroy the pest during bud break, karbofos or Actellik is used.

For the prevention of stem flies, mulching the soil around the bushes is used. Mulch makes it difficult for insects to get out of the ground. The first treatment is carried out after the snow melts, karbofos is used. In early May (before flowering), Fitoverm, Aktellik or Agravertin are processed.

Raspberry nutcracker attacks raspberry stems. The larvae feed on stem tissue and cause tissue cracking and swelling. Blisters in length reach 10 centimeters. Diseased plants are removed from the site. For the prevention of healthy bushes, treatment with karbofos is carried out.

When raspberry bushes are affected by the weevil, the plants are treated with karbofos, metaphos or Actellik. Processing is done a week before flowering.

To combat the kidney moth in early spring (before the buds swell), the bushes are treated with Bordeaux liquid, Confidor, Spark, Decis. When leaves appear, a 10% solution of karbofos is used.

The raspberry beetle damages the leaves, buds and berries of the plant. Berries shrink and quickly deteriorate.
To protect against the raspberry beetle, the bushes and the ground around (immediately after the snow melts, trimming and tying the bushes) are sprayed with a 10% solution of karbofos, Nitrafen, Decis, Confidor, Iskra and covered with mulch.

When a raspberry glass case appears, the damaged stems are cut and burned, the caterpillars damage the stems, roots and lead to the weakening and death of the bushes.

Spider mites can be identified by white punctures on the surface of raspberry leaves. With a strong defeat, the plants begin to wither and die.
In the fight against spider mites, karbofos, phosphamide, metaphos, colloidal sulfur, Cidial are used. Spraying is done in the evening.

Diseases

Raspberry is amazed

• anthracnose,
• rust,
• white and purple spotting,
• powdery mildew,
• vercillo wilt,
• gray rot,
• streak,
• mosaic,
• mycoplasma disease (growth),
• curly,
• bactericidal root cancer,
• root rot.

Anthracnose (leaf curling) occurs when there is a lack of boron or potassium in the soil. With a lack of potassium, the leaves are wrapped inside. You can correct the situation with the help of ash. The lack of boron can be compensated by adding a solution of boric acid.

From gray rot and anthracnose, raspberries are treated with Nitrafen solution in early spring. When buds open, Bordeaux liquid is sprayed. Fitosporin can be used at any time.

With the appearance of mottling, stains, spotting on the leaves (viral diseases), they must be removed immediately. Pruning old shoots, thinning and feeding plants avoids these diseases.

To avoid verticillium wilt when planting, the roots should be dipped for 10 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. When leaf spot appears, Bordeaux liquid is used.

Raspberry chlorosis

Pests (mites, aphids, nematodes) penetrate the stems through cuts, breaks. These insects are carriers of viral diseases (chlorosis, jaundice). The leaves turn yellow, the stems are depleted, the berries become smaller and dry quickly.

At the first sign of chlorosis, plants need to be dug up and burned, healthy bushes and the soil around are treated with protective preparations.

Mycoplasma disease leads to the formation of a large number of infertile thin shoots from 30-50 centimeters long (about 200 pieces per bush). At the first manifestations of the disease, the bush is dug up and removed from the site.

Leads to yellowing of foliage. When transplanting or planting bushes, you need to pay attention to the roots. If there is swelling, they are removed, and the cuts are treated with a 1% solution of copper sulphate.

When raspberry curl appears, the leaves become very small, become wrinkled, hard. The underside of the leaves turns brown. Berries become sour, deformed and dry. The plant dies within 3 years. Sick bushes are immediately removed and sent to the fire.

Spring treatment of raspberries from pests / Stem raspberry fly / Spraying raspberries: video

In addition to processing raspberries from pests and diseases, care includes:

• pruning,
• top dressing,
• tying up,
• watering and weeding.

To prevent raspberry bushes from getting sick, you need roots and stems from mechanical damage. Shrubs in one place can grow no more than 7 years. They can be planted on the former site after 4 years.

Landing should be done in fertilized soil. Seedlings should be healthy, strong, with a well-developed, strong root system, without any damage.

Treatment with copper-containing preparations (1% Bordeaux liquid, Oksihom, Abiga-Peak, Hom, Copper oxychloride) saves raspberries from infections. In rainy weather, spraying should be repeated after 1.5-2 weeks.

To combat diseases of raspberry bushes, it is necessary to provide plants with a high level of agricultural technology (the right place for planting, top dressing, timely watering, loosening, weeding, tying and mulching).
If the raspberries dry out, then there are reasons for this: lack of nitrogen, lack of moisture and thickening of the planting. Eliminating problems can improve the yield several times over.

Pruning is done from the second year of plant life.

One of the more important steps in caring for raspberries is pruning.

First of all, shoots are cut off on which fruits are not expected (frozen, damaged and young), they are cut off at the root. If the shoot is partially damaged, it is cut to a healthy place.

Regardless of the planting, the bushes should not be thickened. With a bush form, 8-12 stems should grow, with a ribbon no more than 25 stems.

The second pruning is done when the raspberries grow.

The tops of raspberries are cut to 12-15 centimeters (to the first bud), this stimulates the development of the plant and lateral buds. The height of the stem should not exceed 1.5 meters.

The most necessary useful substances for raspberries are potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and organic matter.

• Potassium improves the yield and winter hardiness of plants.
• Phosphorus strengthens shoots.
• Nitrogen accelerates plant growth. Any raspberry variety gives a good harvest on soil rich in organic matter.

To increase the yield, spring top dressing is carried out in several stages.

Any kind of raspberry dressing is done after watering and loosening the soil.

For the first top dressing, after the snow melts (before loosening the soil), urea or saltpeter is used. Granular fertilizer is applied under the bush immediately after watering. 15 grams of saltpeter or 20 grams of urea are taken per square meter. To enhance the effect, a glass of wood ash is scattered under the bush.

After loosening the land, rotted manure, peat or compost is distributed on the site. The organics will serve as mulch.

In May, raspberries need to be fed with mullein. The mullein is filled with water in a ratio of one to one and infused for a week. The resulting infusion is diluted with cool water (2 liters per 10 liters of water), poured under the bushes.

When laying the ovary, top dressing is carried out with superphosphate. After this procedure, the bushes become strong, resistant to diseases, the yield increases.

During flowering, 1 glass of superphosphate, a glass of ash and 100 grams of carbamide are introduced.
The mixture is diluted in a bucket of water and spilled under the bushes.

Feeding raspberries with chicken manure increases the yield and strengthens the plants. Litter is diluted in water in a ratio of one to five and infused for 5 days. The finished infusion is diluted one to twenty and used for its intended purpose.

Raspberries. The fight for the harvest begins in the spring: video

Proper processing of raspberries in the spring and good care allows you to get a bountiful harvest every year.