Rust on the leaves of indoor plants than to treat. Why do plants rust? How to treat rust on leaves

Here are the most common plant diseases that are found on indoor flowers. Attention: on any plants in case of violation of agricultural technology (bay, hypothermia, overfeeding with fertilizers) or when planted in non-disinfected soil, signs of several diseases may appear. In the world around us, not one or two types of microorganisms, but millions. We can guess the disease by single characteristic spots. There are specific diseases that cannot be confused with anything: gray rot (long threads of gray mold), powdery mildew (leaves seem to be covered with white dust), dropsy of leaves in succulents (green pimples, the plant is not depressed), ring patterns from viruses and some other.

But very often, plants manifest several diseases at the same time, for example, in orchids tracheomycosis (fusarium) and at the same time septoria or phyllosticosis. Root rot and alternariosis. The good news is that the ones offered to us in the store are usually effective against many diseases. But do not forget that for personal households (i.e. for the home), drugs of hazard classes 3 and 4 are allowed.

Alternariosis and dry spotting

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Alternaria. The fungus infects mainly leaves, sometimes stems and tubers.

Symptoms: First, dry brown spots appear, first on the lower and then on the upper leaves. Usually concentric circles are visible on the spots. With the increase in the spot, it gradually turns black, and gray conidia become visible on it.

Frequent temperature changes and changes in humidity contribute to the spread of the disease, i.e. alternating dry and wet periods. But the optimal conditions for the development of the fungus are at temperatures above about 25-30 ° C and humidity up to 90%.

Prevention

Avoid overcrowded plants, cut out excess branches and leaves during. Ventilate the room or greenhouse, if the flowers are on the balcony, make sure that there is good ventilation and mold does not grow on the walls - this is an indicator of microclimate disturbances.

Control measures

Fungicides used to combat alternariosis:

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 liters of water
• oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
• hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Anthracnose

The causative agent is fungi of the genera Colletotrichum, Gloeosporium, Kabatiella. Palm trees, ficuses, anthurium, etc. are more often affected.

Symptoms: The disease affects the leaves, stems, petioles and fruits of plants. Spots on different plants, and depending on the pathogen, look different.

• Kabatiella zeae - causes the formation of small round or irregular spots, 2-5 mm in diameter with a clear outline. It looks like a yellow spot with a brown or black dot inside. If the spot is larger, instead of a black dot, a dark rim is formed, and inside it is a grayish ring.
• Colletotrichum orbiculare - causes usually reddish-brown, often with a slight yellow border, spots, from 2 to 12 mm. On some plants the spots are pale green. Rounded or elongated in shape. In the affected areas, the spots merge, dry out, become like parchment, crack, holes form.
• Colletotrichum trichellum - large yellowish-brown or gray-brown spots on leaves and stems with dark sporulation pads. If you look closely, it is noticeable that on the spots on the upper side of the leaf, the surface is not smooth, but covered with fluffy hairs of spores, however, the spores are already noticeable when the plant is severely damaged. The spots on the fruits are gray-brown with a dark middle, depressed.

Anthracnose develops rapidly in greenhouse conditions, i.e. at high air humidity (about 90-100%) and an elevated temperature of 22-27 °. And also with frequent (several times a day) spraying of plants. The fungus is frost-resistant - it is preserved in plant debris, in seeds and spreads with water during irrigation.

Prevention

Removal of leaves with suspicious spots, disinfection of the earth, seed dressing. Suspicious plants bought in the store are quarantined. When signs of the manifestation of the disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the plants.

Control measures

Spraying, usually three treatments are enough, using fungicides:

• oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
• : 100 g per 10 liters of water
• colloidal sulfur: 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
• strobi fungicide, in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water
• abiga-peak: 50 g suspension per 10 liters of water

Ascochitosis

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Ascochyta. The most severe lesions are caused by ascochitosis of chrysanthemums, which most often affects plants of the Compositae family.

Symptoms: at the initial stage, small, only 1-2 mm reddish or brown spots appear on the leaves, sometimes brown, reddish with a yellowish or brown rim, of various shapes. The spots increase in size and acquire a dark brown necrotic hue with a yellowish chlorosis border around the edge. Small black spores of the fungus can only be seen under magnification with a magnifying glass. If the growth of the fungus on the stem rings it, then the stem easily breaks.

Sometimes the disease begins with signs of overdrying of the plant - the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, a dark brown stripe forms on the border with healthy tissue. The causative agent is very resistant to deep temperature changes, i.e. tolerates both severe drought and freezing of the soil. Preserved on plant residues, seeds. The disease spreads with the wind, undisinfected soil, water drops.

Prevention and treatment, as in .

Dropsy leaves (edema)

A disease caused not by a fungus or bacteria, but resulting from waterlogging of the soil, often with a lack of lighting. It usually appears in succulents, typical for peperomia, fat women, Kalanchoe, possibly on pelargonium, sheffler.

Symptoms: the plant, most often on the underside of the leaf, barely noticeable pimples appear, they seem watery, but are actually dense, sometimes, like cork growths, some look like warts, the color of the leaf may be preserved, i.e. the spots are green, may acquire a gray necrotic color. This is due to the fact that part of the roots dies (due to overdrying, waterlogging, hypothermia), nutrition is disrupted through the conductive vessels that were supplied by these particular roots. Since waterlogging is not strong, the soil had time to dry out, rotting did not spread further, but the spots remained. The affected leaves will not recover, but if the plant is given good conditions, the new leaves will be healthy.

The difference between dropsy (edema) and other diseases, root rot is that the plant is not depressed, it grows noticeably, and the spots themselves in small areas affect 1-3 leaves on the bush. Leaves with dropsy do not turn yellow, do not dry out and do not fall off!

Treatment and prevention: Adjust watering, do not flood, after heavy watering and when compacting the soil in a pot, loosen the ground. Make up the soil with a high proportion of draining, loosening particles - at least 1/5 or 1/4 of the volume of the pot.

Downy mildew (Peronosporosis)

The causative agents are fungi of the genera Peronospora, Plasmopara, Pseudoperonospora, Mildew. The disease can affect any indoor plants, but the disease is quite rare.

Symptoms: on the upper side of the leaves, yellow, then brown spots of irregular shape are formed, with a false powdery rose of cucumbers, the spots are angular (the specifics of the leaf structure). Gradually, necrosis occurs in these places, and the spots become brown. On the lower side of the leaves - at the beginning of the disease, a light gray coating from the conidial sporulation of the pathogen that came to the surface of the leaf through the stomata, then this coating gradually turns black. Diseased leaves turn yellow, become wrinkled or corrugated, wither and dry out. The causative agent with a strong degree of damage can penetrate into the vascular system, which is noticeable on the cut in the form of darkened vessels (mycelium and spores).

The disease predominates in heavy acidic soils. Exacerbates the spread of high humidity and poor ventilation. The source of infection is undisinfected soil and seeds.

Prevention

Maintaining low humidity, regular airing, thinning and cleaning the bushes. Change of soil and its disinfection. If signs of the disease are already detected, avoid spraying and watering the leaves when watering.

Seed preparation for sowing:

• immersion in hot water at 50°C for 20 minutes, followed by rapid cooling in cold water for 2-3 minutes
• soaking in a seed treater, for example, Maxim preparation

Control measures

Removal of diseased leaves and severely affected branches. You can use preparations containing copper: oxychom, cuproxate, 1% solution, ordan. These fungicides are more available (cheap and effective) for the treatment of horticultural and horticultural plants. You can get more modern preparations: quadris, bravo - but they are not sold in small packages, they are intended only for agriculture (in cans and bottles), gardeners usually buy them in collective purchases.

For a simple grower, fungicides are available:

• topaz 4 ml per 10 liters of water
• abiga-peak 50 g suspension per 10 l of water
• oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water, three times

Start the treatment at the first sign of the disease and repeat every 7-10 days, especially carefully treat the underside of the leaves. It is necessary to carry out at least 3-4 treatments.

Preparations: pure flowers, fast, rayok are ineffective against downy mildew.

powdery mildew

A common plant disease caused by fungi of the species Podosphaera fuliginea, Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium - powdery mildew on oidium grapes.

Symptoms: at the beginning of the disease, small mealy spots appear on the flowers and leaves. They are easily erased, but then reappear and increase in size, becoming a rich gray color. Gradually, the mycelium thickens and becomes almost brown. Powdery coating can be on both sides of the sheet. The leaves gradually dry up, the buds and flowers crumble, the growth of the plant stops. The most favorable conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity - about 60-80% and warm air within 15-26°C.

Of the domestic plants, powdery mildew most often affects: laurel, Saintpaulia, gloxinia, roses, gerberas, Kalanchoe, etc.

Prevention

To prevent powdery mildew of indoor plants and flowers, pollination with sulfur can be carried out 3-4 times during the summer. Overfeeding plants with nitrogenous fertilizers, especially during the budding period, increases the risk of powdery mildew. On the contrary, top dressing with phosphorus and potash fertilizers increases the resistance to the powdery mildew pathogen. You should also ventilate the room more often, avoiding cold drafts. Pay attention to the bushes and trees that grow under your windows, if they show signs of a disease, you constantly need to be on the alert - the spores of the fungus are easily carried by the wind.

In addition to sulfur treatment, preventive spraying with whey (backwash) can be carried out. Ordinary whole milk will do, but whey is preferable (less traces on the leaves), you need to dilute with water in a ratio of 1: 3 and spray the plants. For prevention, repeat after 2 weeks.

Fighting powdery mildew at home

If powdery mildew has got on indoor flowers, and violets (saintpaulias), potted gerberas, indoor roses are especially susceptible, then you can use the same products as for garden plants, except for highly toxic ones (bayleton), but preference should be given to such fungicides as topaz , fast

You can use the preparations Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok - they are all available in small packaging, contain difenoconazole, dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. For fruit trees, vegetables and berries, dilute 2 g per 10 liters of water, maximum 4 treatments: the first - on a green cone, the rest - after 12-14 days, stop treatments 20 days before harvesting.

It is safe enough to spray powdery mildew at home with a solution of soda ash and copper sulfate: dilute 10 g of soda ash and 2 g of soap (household, tar) in 1 liter of water, dissolve 2 g of copper sulfate separately in a glass of water. Pour the copper solution into the soda solution, add water to a liquid volume of 2 liters and spray the plants.

If you heard from someone a recipe for fighting powdery mildew with antibiotics, do not try to repeat it, penicillins, tetracyclines and other antibiotics do not work on fungal infections, in extreme cases, they will help against bacteriosis, but no more.

You can use drugs such as Topaz, Vectra, Hom, Oksikhom, Bordeaux liquid (1%). How to get rid of powdery mildew on gooseberries, currants, roses and other garden crops - read more:.

Spraying with a solution of iodine helps as a preventive measure and treatment: dilute 1 ml of an alcohol pharmaceutical tincture of iodine in 1 liter of water. Roses can be increased in concentration - dilute 1 ml per 400 ml of water.

Septoria

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Septoria.

Symptoms: dark brown or dark gray spots with a yellowish border (on anthurium) or, as on azaleas, small reddish or reddish-yellow spots that gradually increase. Then blackening appears on the spots in the center - the fruiting organs of the fungus, which can even overwinter on the leaves at sub-zero temperatures and the disease will begin to spread in the spring. Some forms of septoria have different manifestations (depending on the type of plant):

• Pathogen Septoria albopunctata - looks like small 2-5 mm reddish-purple or brown spots with a gray center. With the development of the disease, the spots increase, and in the center of some of them you can see small dark brown or black spores of the fungus. Over time, the spots merge, turn brown, and the leaf dries out. Ideal conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity and temperature in the range of 28-31 °.
• The causative agent Septoria populi - the so-called white spot, first causes the formation of small whitish or gray spots with a brown rim around the edge, round or oval.

Prevention

Removal of leaves with suspicious spots, disinfection of the earth, seed dressing. With signs of a manifestation of the disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the leaves, improve air circulation (ventilation).

Treatment of septoria

When the spots have already appeared and spread further, it is necessary to spray using chemicals: among them, popular in gardening, a 1% solution (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water, dilute strictly according to the instructions), a solution of copper oxychloride (hom , oksikhom), copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water). And:

• colloidal sulfur 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
• strobi in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 liters of water
• abiga-peak 40-50 g per 10 liters of water
• fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 4 ml per 5 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Repeat spraying after 7-10 days.

Gray rot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Botrytis Botrytis.

Symptoms: most often, the affected areas appear on the stems in the form of a fluffy grayish-olive coating. With further development, the disease passes to the leaves, ovaries of flowers and fruits.

Over time, the lesion takes the form of dry rot with concentric spots. After a few days, the spot grows and rings the stem. For the first week, there is no sporulation of the fungus on the spot, it turns pale in the center to a straw color, blurry ring-shaped stripes become visible. Gray rot looks like gray loose cotton wool or mold. Inside the stem, tissue necrosis develops, while the vessels die, and the movement of water stops. Escape above this zone withers.

Prevention

Prevention measures include soil disinfection during transplantation (heating in the oven or microwave), regular airing of the rooms, removal of dying leaves and thinning of seedlings, good lighting. Avoid waterlogging the soil, especially when kept cool, if the flowers are on the balcony in early spring or late summer - autumn. When transplanting, trichodermin, barrier, barrier or phytosporin preparations can be applied to the soil (spill the soil).

Control measures

At the first sign of the disease, remove diseased leaves and inflorescences. Sprinkle the affected area with charcoal powder, chalk or wood ash. You can make a paste from the preparation of trichodermin (moisten a small amount of powder with water) and smear the affected areas in the same way. Spraying with a solution of topsin-M (0.1%) or a solution of phytosporin (dilute to the color of tea). In case of severe damage, spray:

• (0,2%)
• copper-soap solution: 0.2% copper sulfate and 2% laundry soap
• fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok - dilute any 4 ml per 5 liters of water

Repeated treatments are carried out after 7-10 days.

sooty fungus

Appears in the form of a dry sooty film on aukuba, buksus, laurels. It is caused by the fungus Capnopodium, which settles on the secretions of aphids, whiteflies, and mealybugs. By itself, the plaque is not dangerous for the plant, but it clogs the stomata on the leaves, thereby disrupting the respiration process. The plant slows down growth and weakens.

Control measures: timely spraying from pests that form sweet secretions (aphids, scale insects, thrips). After curing diseases, wipe the affected plants with a sponge dipped in soapy water, rinse with warm clean water, treat with phytosporin: take a liquid or paste and dilute in a glass of water until the color of weak tea. Spray the leaves.

Sometimes a sooty fungus settles on the surface of leaves affected by other fungi, carefully examine the nature of the spots, put the plant in quarantine.

leaf rust

The causative agent is rust fungi, for example, the genus Phragmidium or Puccinia.

Symptoms: are expressed in the appearance of orange-brown tubercles on the upper surface of the leaf, sometimes yellow or red round spots. On the reverse side of the leaf, pustules are clearly visible - pads (like warts) of an oval or round shape. Gradually, the spots develop into stripes, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Prevention

The disease is provoked by uneven watering and high air humidity, but even with good care, infection is possible at home through cut garden flowers or with new store-bought potted plants, such as gerberas. The infection can also get with garden soil, because rust often affects apple or pear trees.

Control measures

Remove affected leaves and branches. Apply fungicide spray:

• abiga-peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• bayleton 1 g per 1 liter of water
• Vectra 2-3 ml per 10 liters of water
• 10 g per 1 liter of water
• oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
• ordan 20 g per 5 liters of water
• strobe
• 4 ml per 10 liters of water
• hom 40 g per 10 liters of water

Repeat the treatment 2-3 times in 10 days. Biological products do not help against rust: phytosporin, bactofit, etc.

Phyllosticosis (brown spot)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Phyllosticta. Of the domestic flowers, hibiscus, roses, orchids, etc. are susceptible to the disease.

Symptoms: Small dark reddish or dark purple dots first appear on affected plants. They enlarge and turn into brown spots with a purple, almost black border around the edge. The middle of the spot becomes thinner, dries up and falls out in plants with non-leather leaves, holes are formed. When viewed through a magnifying glass, black rounded spores can be seen on the brown areas of the spot. The disease spreads with the wind, undisinfected soil, water drops.

Orchid phyllosticosis manifests itself in small spots about 2 mm in diameter, dark brown, slightly depressed, holes do not form, the disease is often called "black spotting", since the leaf is dotted with small spots like a rash - the spots do not merge into large ones, remain loose, but the leaf turns yellow, and then the spores of the fungus become noticeable. The disease spreads quite quickly, as orchids are often in an atmosphere of high humidity.

Prevention

Compliance with the rules of care and hygiene - timely watering if necessary, but not more often, pour water only under the root, water should not fall on the root collar, in the axils of the leaves. Use only warm water for irrigation, without chlorine and salts (iron, calcium). Make sure plants get enough light, weakened chlorosis leaves are more susceptible to infection. Ventilate the house or rooms, avoiding drafts. Ventilation must be very good - an indicator of proper ventilation - the absence of mold in the bathroom, the perimeter of the window frame, the corners of the rooms. Observe the temperature regime, take into account the species requirements of orchids and other plants - a deviation from the norm and the usual care weakens the immune system.

Treatment of phyllosticosis

• Vectra fungicide - dilute 2-3 ml of the drug in 10 liters of water
• abiga-peak - 50 g per 5 liters of water
• strobi - 4 g per 10 liters of water
• oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
• fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 1 ml per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying at the first signs of the disease or prophylactic, then subsequent with an interval of 7-10 days. In some plants, you can safely remove the affected leaves (for example, in hibiscus), in orchids, do not rush to cut the affected areas to healthy tissue, this can further weaken the plants. You can cut the leaf only when it has already turned yellow. The rest is treated by spraying.

root rot

This is a group of diseases caused by a number of pathogenic fungi of the genera: Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora and others. All these diseases sooner or later appear on the crown, tops of plants, but infection begins through the root system. If the pathogen is serious, and the plant is young (cutting, seedling, seedling), then the leaves do not even have time to start turning yellow - the roots and the lower part of the stem quickly rot.

Orchids, saintpaulias, cacti and succulents are most susceptible to root rot. The reason is a violation of agricultural technology.

The black leg is the scourge of seedlings, manifested in the decay of the lower part of the shoot, the cutting. Rot is the most typical - blackening, softening of tissues. A very part of the black leg affects when the soil is waterlogged, poor aeration, if the clods of earth are so dense that an anaerobic environment is constantly around the roots. The source of infection is unsterilized earth mixtures, inventory, pots and seedling boxes after diseased plants.

late blight

This is a type of root rot. In this case, the plant first slows down growth, fades somewhat, the leaves lose color, become pale, only then the roots rot and the plant dies. The first impression with this disease is that the plant does not have enough water, but after watering the turgor is not restored, and the leaves fade even more. In plants with dense leaves, the leaves do not fade, but are covered with extensive brown spots that start from the central vein.

Prevention

Choose the right soil for your plants, add more porous, draining materials to structure the soil. Do not use fine river sand or sand from a children's sandbox (quarry) - it cements the earth mixture! Use small pebbles with a particle size of 3-4 mm, such as can be bought in specialized departments and aquarium stores, or sift river pebbles. When planting, add a drug to the plant pot

Make sure that the soil does not become waterlogged, water after an acceptable degree of drying: if it is indicated that watering is plentiful, it means that the soil in the pot should have time to dry by about 1/2 or 1/3 of the upper part of the pot by the next watering. If you dip your finger into the ground, you will find that the soil is dry on top, and the inside of the pot is slightly wetter (cooler) - then you can water.

If moderate watering is recommended for the plant, then the soil should dry out completely - if you dip your finger into the pot, it should also be dry inside (the finger does not feel that it is cooler, wetter). Of course, you should not stick your fingers into the ground before each watering. Just wait for the soil to dry on top and wait another 2-3 days before watering so that it has time to dry in depth. And if it suddenly gets colder and the temperature drops, you may need to wait even longer - 5-7 days before the next watering.

To propagate indoor plants, cut off only healthy cuttings and leaves. Be sure to sterilize the ground for planting cuttings, especially if you are breeding plants that are very susceptible to late blight and root rot (for example, Gesneria, gardenia, shefflera). Old, already used pots in which the plants died must be scalded with boiling water.

Before planting, soak the seeds in a disinfectant, use, for example, the drug maxim.

Control measures

With a large development of root rot, when a significant part of the roots died off, and most of the shoots drooped, lost their elasticity, treatment is useless. If the tip of the petiole or twig has blackened on rooting, it can be cut off, drop phytosporin into water and put on rooting again.

If the plant shows signs of wilting, while the soil is damp, it is urgent to remove the plant from the pot. Rinse the root system, remove rot. If healthy roots are still preserved, treat them (soak for a few minutes) in a fungicide solution:

• Alirin B - 2 tablets per 10 liters of water
• Hamair - 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• ordan 5 g per 1 liter of water
• 3 ml per 2 liters of water
• baktofit 10 ml per 5 l of water
• oxychom 10 g per 5 l of water
• hom 20 g per 5 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

spotting

This is a whole group of diseases that are both fungal and bacterial in nature.

Pathogens - fungi genera Ascochyta, Colletotrichum, Phyllosticta, Pestalotia, Septoria, Vermicularia and others. Spotting is a disease whose causative agent is difficult to identify, it can be anthracnose, septoria, phyllostictosis, ascochitosis, but the specificity of the spots is not pronounced. At the same time, brown spots appear on the leaves of the plant, which grow in size with the spread of the disease, merge and affect the entire leaf. If the plant is strong enough, resistant to disease, or very well cared for, the spots grow slowly and the leaves dry out just as slowly.

Prevention of spotting

Contribute to the development of diseases violations of conditions of detention. This waterlogging is especially aggravated by hypothermia of the root system (after watering with cold water or when transporting home from the store during the cold season). Spotting can also develop in warm, humid conditions, especially with poor air circulation and planting in dense clay soil.

Avoid large plant crowds and excessive watering. Regularly ventilate the room, greenhouses and provide good lighting. For prevention, water the plants with a solution of the drug or bactofit. Can be added to pots when planting tablets of the drug.

Control measures

In garden conditions, any plant debris with stains from dead plants should be collected and destroyed. Prune affected leaves and branches from houseplants. Spray with fungicides that can deal with most fungal infections.

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 liters of water
• oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
• hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
• alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water diluted)
• copper sulfate: 100 g per 10 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

At home, indoor flowers from spotting should be tried to be treated with more affordable and simple means: use Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok - they are all available in small packaging, contain the same active ingredient - difenoconazole, you need to dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. Spray the leaves with the solution, repeat after 2 weeks. Add zircon to the solution of these fungicides Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok (6 drops per 1 liter of solution).

Red burn

The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Stangospora Staganospora. A disease characteristic of hippeastrums and some bulbous.

Symptoms: red narrow spots appear on the leaves and peduncles, on which spore-bearing crusts subsequently form, the scales of the bulbs completely turn red. In a diseased plant, the deformation of leaves and flowers begins, flowering does not begin or stops, the bulbs rot.

Treatment

Treatment of bulbs in fungicides. You can use the drug maxim (soaking the bulbs), but it can cause burns of the primordia of the leaves and peduncle - their tips have a very thin epidermis. The third photo - burns from the drug maxim, although the bulbs are cured, the burns will remain.

You can treat the red burn of hippeastrum with other fungicides:

• fundahol (benomyl) 1 g per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
• oxychom 4 g per 1 liter of water

black spot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Rhytisma, Dothidella.

Symptoms:

• Rhytisma acerinum - causes the formation of large rounded spots, initially yellowish and blurry. Then black dots appear on them, which gradually merge and form black shiny stroma (nodules), surrounded by a yellowish border. Sometimes there may be no yellowing around the black stroma.
• Rhytisma salicinum - causes similar lesions, only the spots are more convex, more angular in shape, large and small.
• Rhytisma punctatum - causes the appearance of small, dotted or teardrop-shaped, shiny black and bulging stroma.
• Dothidella ulmi - causes the formation of grayish-black, rounded stroma; they are convex, at first shiny, later - rough, like warts.

A combination of conditions contributes to the spread of the disease: high humidity, shading and high temperatures.

Control measures

Spraying with fungicides:

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 liters of water
• benomyl (foundazol) 1 g per 1 liter of water
• Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
• hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
• alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying three times in 10 days.

Tracheomycosis

Tracheomycosis is a group of diseases called vascular wilt- pathogens enter through the roots and affect the vascular system of plants, clog the lumen of blood vessels with their mycelium, release toxins, the plant does not receive water and nutrients and begins to fade.

Tracheomycoses include diseases such as:

• verticillium wilt (verticillium wilt)
• fusarium wilt (fusarium)
• malsecco in citrus

The symptoms are very similar, all diseases are diagnosed only in the laboratory, all are incurable, they are detected at the stage when pathogenic fungi have already poisoned the vascular system, this is something like blood poisoning in animals. Particularly affected by tracheomycosis are orchids, phalaenopsis, dendrobiums, cattleyas, etc. From other indoor flowers: fuchsias, roses, balsam, begonias, geraniums; from garden: petunias, carnations, chrysanthemums, asters, dahlias. Vegetables prone to tracheomycosis: cabbage, celery, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, lettuce, melons, potatoes, pumpkin, radishes, rhubarb.

There are also plants resistant to tracheomycosis: saintpaulia, ageratum, gypsophila, mallow, periwinkle, primrose, zinnia, asparagus, ferns, philodendrons. Of the vegetables, only corn and asparagus can resist.

In foreign practice, all tracheomycotic wilts are simply called: wilt - from wilt - to fade.

verticillium wilt

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Verticillium. It reproduces exclusively asexually - by conidia, infects plant roots and poisons xylem tissues: it grows and reproduces systemically throughout the plant.

Symptoms: in the initial stages of the disease, the lower leaves acquire a grayish-greenish color due to the development of interveinal necrosis. The leaf tissue between the veins turns brown and dries out. Then wilting begins, most of the leaves, starting from the bottom, turn yellow, curl and dry. On the section of the stem, browning of the vessels is noticeable. Vessel lumens are filled with thin multicellular mycelium. Plants lag behind in growth, develop poorly, then die. Sometimes the disease manifests itself on the plant in the drying up and death of individual branches of the bush. If the conditions are favorable, then the disease passes to other branches and the whole plant dies rather quickly. If there are unfavorable conditions for the development of the fungus, then the disease can last for months and part of the plant looks healthy, and part dies.

The pathogen persists in the soil in the form of microslerotia for several years. The optimum temperature for germination of sclerotia is 25-27°C, humidity 60-70%. The development of the fungus is most likely on soil with a neutral pH value = 7-7.5. The spores of the fungus germinate and penetrate the conductive tissue, where mycelium develops, causing clogging of blood vessels. Since there is a gradual clogging of the vessels from the bottom up, the wilting of the leaves begins with the lower leaves and gradually covers the entire plant.

Prevention

Do not use garden soil for indoor plants without pre-treatment: pour on a baking sheet with a layer of 5 cm, heat at maximum temperature for 20 minutes. Disinfect seeds by heating and disinfectants (for example, fungicide maxim)

Control measures

Due to the peculiar biology of the pathogen (development in the soil and distribution through conducting vessels), chemical agents are ineffective. Treatment is possible only in the initial stages, by spraying with foundationazole, vectra (3 ml per 10 l of water) or topsin-M at a concentration of 0.2%.

Fusarium (fusarium wilt)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Fusarium.

Fusarium develops only on weakened plants, primarily in dying areas. The course of the disease can take place according to the type of tracheomycosis wilt or with rotting of the roots. Plants are affected at any age. The fungus is found in the soil and enters the plant through soil and wounds, with water from natural sources, non-sterile tools during grafting or pruning. The increased humidity of the air and soil contributes to the spread of the disease.

Symptoms: In young plants, the disease manifests itself in the form of rotting of the roots and root neck. In these places, the tissues turn brown, the stem becomes thinner, the leaves turn yellow. In affected plants, the tops of the shoots wither (loss of turgor), and then the entire shoot. This happens, as in the case of infection with verticillosis, due to blockage of blood vessels by toxins and enzymes secreted by fungi. Therefore, the darkening of the vessels is also visible on the transverse section. But sometimes tracheomycosis appears only on part of the crown, the rest remains healthy for the time being - then the bush or tree is oppressed, individual branches droop. If you cut off (the cut is clean without darkening) cuttings from healthy branches during the time, you can root and get a healthy plant.

The rate of the course of the disease depends on how favorable the conditions are for the development of the fungus. With high soil and air humidity, as well as temperatures above 18 ° C, the disease can destroy the entire plant in a few days. If the humidity is lowered, then the disease can become chronic, then the plant slowly fades within 3-4 weeks.

Control measures

Removal and destruction of the plant along with a clod of earth. Disinfection of pots with a 5% solution of copper sulfate, bleach, or at least scald with boiling water.

If wilting has just begun, then you can try to treat the plant with fungicides:

• Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• benomyl (foundazol) 1 g per 1 liter of water for orchids can be 1 g per 100 ml
• alirin B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying three times, with an interval of 7-10 days.

How to treat orchids: get rid of the old substrate (throw away or boil the bark for at least half an hour). Cut off rotten roots. Prepare a fungicide solution, and carefully spray the root system and leaves. Leave to dry. Plant in a fresh substrate (large pieces of bark, foam, cork). Do not spray, water by dipping as needed for a short time (5 minutes is sufficient). It is advisable to keep diseased orchids at a temperature of 23-24 ° C, without drafts, with very intense but diffused lighting (possible under lamps).

The soil for large plantings (growing seedlings and transplanting tub plants) can be prepared by shedding it properly, with a solution of potassium permanganate (pink), Maxim, or applying trichodermin. When working, sterilize tools - a knife, scissors and even garter material (wire, thread) with alcohol.

Astrakhan tomatoes ripen remarkably lying on the ground, but you should not repeat this experience in the Moscow region. Our tomatoes need support, support, a garter. My neighbors use all sorts of pegs, garters, loops, ready-made plant supports, and mesh fences. Each method of fixing the plant in an upright position has its own advantages and "side effects". I'll tell you how I place tomato bushes on trellises, and what comes of it.

Flies are a sign of unsanitary conditions and carriers of infectious diseases that are dangerous for both humans and animals. People are constantly looking for ways to get rid of nasty insects. In this article, we will talk about the Zlobny TED brand, which specializes in fly protection products and knows a lot about them. The manufacturer has developed a specialized line of drugs to get rid of flying insects anywhere quickly, safely and without extra costs.

The summer months are the time for hydrangeas to bloom. This beautiful deciduous shrub is luxuriously fragrant with flowers from June to September. Florists willingly use large inflorescences for wedding decors and bouquets. To admire the beauty of a flowering hydrangea bush in your garden, you should take care of the proper conditions for it. Unfortunately, some hydrangeas do not bloom year after year, despite the care and efforts of gardeners. Why this happens, we will tell in the article.

Every summer resident knows that plants need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium for full development. These are the three main macronutrients, the deficiency of which significantly affects the appearance and yield of plants, and in advanced cases can lead to their death. But at the same time, not everyone understands the importance of other macro- and microelements for plant health. And they are important not only in themselves, but also for the effective absorption of the same nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, are one of the early fragrant berries that summer generously endows us with. How we rejoice in this harvest! In order for the "berry boom" to repeat every year, we need to take care of the care of the berry bushes in the summer (after the end of fruiting). The laying of flower buds, from which ovaries will form in spring, and berries in summer, begins approximately 30 days after the end of fruiting.

Spicy pickled watermelon is a savory snack for fatty meat. Watermelons and watermelon rinds have been pickled since time immemorial, but the process is laborious and time consuming. According to my recipe, it’s easy to cook pickled watermelon in 10 minutes, and a spicy snack will be ready by the evening. The watermelon marinated with spices and chili is stored in the refrigerator for several days. Be sure to keep the jar in the refrigerator, not only for the sake of preservation - chilled, this snack is just licking your fingers!

Among the variety of species and hybrids of philodendrons, there are many plants, both gigantic and compact. But not a single species competes in unpretentiousness with the main modest - blushing philodendron. True, his modesty does not concern the appearance of the plant. Reddening stems and cuttings, huge leaves, long shoots, forming, although very large, but also strikingly elegant silhouette, look very elegant. Philodendron blushing requires only one thing - at least minimal care.

Thick Chickpea Soup with Vegetables and Egg is an easy recipe for a hearty first course inspired by Oriental cuisine. Similar thick soups are prepared in India, Morocco, and the countries of Southeast Asia. The tone is set by spices and seasonings - garlic, chili, ginger and a bouquet of spicy spices, which can be assembled to your liking. It is better to fry vegetables and spices in melted butter (ghee) or mix olive oil and butter in a saucepan, this, of course, is not the same, but it tastes similar.

Plum - well, who does not know her ?! She is loved by many gardeners. And all because it has an impressive list of varieties, surprises with excellent harvests, pleases with its variety in terms of ripening and a huge choice of color, shape and taste of fruits. Yes, somewhere she feels better, somewhere worse, but almost no summer resident refuses to grow her on her plot. Today it can be found not only in the south, in the middle lane, but also in the Urals, in Siberia.

Many ornamental and fruit crops, except for drought-resistant ones, suffer from the scorching sun, and conifers in the winter-spring period - from the sun's rays, enhanced by the reflection from the snow. In this article we will talk about a unique preparation for protecting plants from sunburn and drought - Sunshet Agrosuccess. The problem is relevant for most regions of Russia. In February and early March, the sun's rays become more active, and the plants are not yet ready for new conditions.

“Each vegetable has its own time”, and each plant has its own optimal time for planting. Anyone who has experienced planting is well aware that the hot season for planting is spring and autumn. This is due to several factors: in spring, the plants have not yet started to grow rapidly, there is no sweltering heat, and precipitation often falls. However, no matter how hard we try, circumstances often develop in such a way that landings have to be carried out at the very height of summer.

Chili con carne in Spanish means chili with meat. This is a Texan and Mexican dish whose main ingredients are chili peppers and minced beef. In addition to the main products, there are onions, carrots, tomatoes, and beans. This red lentil chili recipe is delicious! The dish is fiery, burning, very satisfying and amazingly tasty! You can cook a large pot, arrange in containers and freeze - a whole week will be a delicious dinner.

Cucumber is one of the most beloved garden crops of our summer residents. However, not all and not always gardeners manage to get a really good harvest. And although growing cucumbers requires regular attention and care, there is a little secret that will significantly increase their yield. It's about pinching cucumbers. Why, how and when to pinch cucumbers, we will tell in the article. An important point in the cultivation of cucumbers is their formation, or type of growth.

Now every gardener has the opportunity to grow absolutely organic, healthy fruits and vegetables in his own garden. The microbiological fertilizer Atlant will help in this. It contains helper bacteria that settle in the zone of the root system and begin to work for the benefit of the plant, allowing it to actively grow, stay healthy and give high yields. Usually, many microorganisms coexist around the root system of plants.

Summer is associated with beautiful flowers. Both in the garden and in the rooms you want to admire the luxurious inflorescences and touching flowers. And for this it is not at all necessary to use cut bouquets. In the assortment of the best indoor plants there are many beautifully flowering species. In the summer, when they receive the brightest lighting and the optimal duration of daylight hours, they are able to outshine any bouquet. Short-lived or just annual crops look like living bouquets.

Despite the "inorganic" name, rust is of fungal origin and can be a real disaster for a personal plot. Therefore, any amateur gardener needs to know how to prevent the development of the disease and, if necessary, cure infected plants.

Of course, this disease has nothing to do with the oxidation of metals - it's all about the characteristic yellow-orange spots and stripes that occur more often on the underside of the leaves and sometimes on shoots, seed pods and inflorescences. Over time, special convex formations appear on the affected areas, called pustules, in which spores of the pathogen fungus develop. After maturation, they spill out in the form of a rusty powder and are carried by wind and insects, forming more and more new foci of the disease.

Some varieties of rust fungus may overwinter in leaf litter or on intermediate host plants. In the spring, its spores spread over considerable distances, leading to mass infections of disease-prone plants. The fungus develops especially actively in conditions of high humidity caused by precipitation or too abundant watering. He also feels at ease in excessively dense plantings, as well as in areas where nitrogen fertilizers are applied excessively.

The consequences of infection for plant organs are usually fatal - the leaves dry up and fall off, and the stems begin to crack and break even from minor mechanical influences. From a biological point of view, the destructive activity of rust leads to increased transpiration, or the evaporation of moisture from the foliage, and also disrupts metabolism and prevents the normal course of the photosynthesis process. At the same time, growth either slows down or stops altogether.

How the disease manifests itself in different plants

The "omnivorous" fungus willingly settles on a variety of representatives of the green world - vegetables, fruit and berry crops, and does not spare ornamental plantings. Rust also causes significant harm to agriculture, affecting such crops as wheat, rye, oats, etc.

On garden crops, the main symptom of the disease is light yellow pustules, which turn black over time. They appear on both leaves and stems. In the absence of proper treatment, the foliage dries up and falls off over time. The risk group includes cucumber, carrots, onions, asparagus, garlic and table beets.

Fruit trees, including apple and pear, the fungus also does not bypass. First, rounded brownish spots appear on the upper part of the leaves, increasing with time. If no measures are taken, then by mid-summer, star-shaped growths will begin to form on the lower part of the sheets, and the leaves themselves will fall off ahead of time.

Rust-prone berry crops include currants, raspberries, honeysuckle, gooseberries, etc. On their leaves, the fungus appears as yellowish spots that merge with time, and a red-orange bloom on the reverse side. Berry bushes are more likely to be infected if pine trees grow near the site, which are an intermediate host for spores that cause the disease.

Finally, the fungus can cause serious damage to flowering plants. Chrysanthemums, irises, carnations and many other ornamental crops can suffer from rust. The disease develops not only on leaves and shoots, but also on flower calyxes and seed pods. First, yellowish spots up to 1.5 mm in diameter appear on the back of the foliage. Further, in their place, brownish “pads” with a yellow border ripen, containing spores of the fungus. Untimely treatment will lead to drying of the foliage and cracking of the stems, and subsequently to the death of the infected plant.

Rust Prevention

The best measure to combat the insidious fungus is to create the most unfavorable conditions for the development of its spores. The causative agent of rust feels great in an excessively humid environment and in crowded beds, so careful monitoring of the irrigation regime and timely thinning of the plantings will significantly reduce the risk of developing the disease. When watering, it is also undesirable to get moisture on the leaves.

Another effective measure to "adventure" rust is the removal of dry foliage and needles from the site in the autumn. To avoid re-infection, all plant residues must be burned. When planning plantings, the proximity of potential intermediate hosts of fungal spores should also be taken into account. So, most often berry bushes growing near pine forests suffer from rust. Shrubs with a lush crown planted along its borders will help to isolate the garden plot from dangerous neighbors - for example, irga, which also has outstanding decorative qualities.

In early spring, before bud break, it is recommended to carry out preventive treatment of garden plantings. To do this, it is necessary to prepare about 10 liters of a 2% solution of Bordeaux mixture and spray it with the aerial parts of trees and shrubs. For deciduous crops, the treatment is carried out again immediately before flowering and about two weeks after it.

An additional increase in the resistance of plants to the fungus is facilitated by such measures as deep plowing of the soil, dressing the seeds with fungicides, as well as the introduction of increased doses of phosphorus and potassium supplements. Nitrogen fertilizers, on the other hand, should not be abused.

Treatment of the disease

If the fungus nevertheless settled on the green parts of garden plants, you should not hesitate - all rust-affected leaves and shoots must be immediately removed and burned. At the initial stages of the disease, it is also necessary to treat plantings with fungicides like Oxychoma, Homa or Topaz. To better fix the preparations on the leaves, it is recommended to add a product called “green soap” to the solution - thanks to it, the protective layer will remain on the plants even after heavy rainfall.

It makes sense to treat the trunks and branches of infected trees and shrubs with preparations containing copper or a saturated solution of potassium permanganate, after cleaning the affected areas to healthy tissue.

You should not use garden pitch for coniferous trees - the wood under it will begin to rot, and the impermeability of the composition to air will only exacerbate the process.

With widespread rust, it is recommended to use fungicides like Fitosporin-M, Baktofit or the like. It will also be useful to treat affected plants with 1% Bordeaux mixture. If necessary, spraying should be repeated after 7-14 days.

Conclusion

Fungal rust can become a serious problem for the backyard, affecting not only ornamental crops, but also crops. Nevertheless, the prevention and timely treatment of diseased specimens allows you to effectively deal with a dangerous disease, nullifying its destructive effect on plants.

The word "rust" in most people is associated with metal.

It turns out that this is also the name of a variety of fungal various, which can destroy most of the plantings if you do not fight it.

What is dangerous rust

Rust bugs not only spoil the appearance of the plant, but also destroy it from the inside. First they attack the leaves, then move to the stems, flowers and fruits. As a result, the process of photosynthesis and metabolism is disrupted, the affected plant experiences a moisture deficit, which leads to leaf fall.

The loss of leaves prematurely undermines the immunity of plants, they endure the winter worse, the quality and quantity of the crop decreases in fruit crops, and in - they become smaller, the plant looks oppressed and slowly dies.

The principle of dealing with the disease for all these plants is the same, therefore, if you know how to treat, for example, from rust, then you can handle the rest of the plants.

In these plants, rust is called goblet, as the affected area of ​​the leaf takes the form of a glass.
It has a rather short period from the appearance of buds to the ripening of berries, so it is better not to use strong fungicides. However, goblet rust can be treated quite well, you just need to know how to deal with it correctly.

Good prevention is the same around the bushes. You need to pay attention: are there thickets of sedge nearby, since the fungus overwinters on it. If there is a sedge, immediately mow it down and burn it. Bushes are treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture three times: immediately after the appearance of leaves, before flowering and after it.

You can also use a simple folk remedy: take 1 teaspoon of dish detergent or adhesive, 1 tablespoon of any vegetable oil, 1 tablespoon of soda, pour it all with 4.5 liters of water and add a powdered aspirin tablet. This solution can bushes every 10 days.

We usually associate rust with iron, but experienced gardeners and flower growers can safely say that this scourge also affects plants. We are talking about a harmful rust fungus that loves to settle on the flowers and leaves of both domestic and wild plants. What is there to scare him? And how to protect your green pets from it?

The culprit is a rusty mushroom

Rust is a fungal disease that affects all types of plants in the wild, garden, and at home. Initially, thickenings of the characteristic color of rust appear on the plants. Take a closer look at the thickenings in the light or on the cut and you can see the spores of a fungus called rustworm. If this disease is started, then the rustworm occupies almost the entire area and the affected plant dies.

There is another, no less common type of rust, which is called diversified. In spring, it most often migrates to a coniferous tree, then, having developed, returns to its original victim.

Take care of the tubers!

Rust is very harmful to bulbous plants, this applies to gladioli or hyacinths. But cloves, irises, snapdragons, asters, peonies, roses, chrysanthemums and sweet peas are often inhabited by spores of this pest. Cruciferous rust is not brown, but white in the form of swelling, similar to drops of paint. Experts call this pest white rust, it is also very destructive to plants.

Why is this type of pest dangerous? It is transmitted by seeds, air and water. Landing on a plant, it devours it from the inside, takes away all the nutrients and does not allow it to breathe. Orchard crops are most often affected by rust in wet, warm weather. But the ruster can hit the plant at home. The spores of this fungus completely inhibit the entire plant.

Likes dampness and rain

Rust can often be seen on some rose bushes in the garden. In the spring, when buds open on them, reddish spots are already clearly visible on the stems. Then they gradually grow, and in the summer the bark begins to crack. From the bark, spores are transferred to nearby plants. Rust damages plants especially strongly in damp or wet weather with rain and sudden temperature changes. In infected plants, the shoots begin to bend, it sheds leaves and eventually suffocates from a lack of oxygen and gradually dies. The most resistant to this disease are plants such as hybrid roses and white phlox.

It is better not to treat, but to prevent

If we talk about the best protection against this pest, then this is prevention. It is easier not to omit its appearance than to treat plants for a long time later. To date, experts have bred many hybrid varieties of indoor and garden plants that are practically not susceptible to rust infection.

In the fight against such an unpleasant and dangerous disease, traditional methods are most often used, such as loosening and digging the soil. But for the purpose of preventive measures, in the spring or autumn, the plants are abundantly treated with a solution of copper sulphate. Ten days before flowering, Bordeaux liquid can be treated, and if the weather is wet outside, then spraying is carried out three days before flowering.

If, despite all the precautions, the plant was infected with rust spores, then the diseased leaves, shoots and buds should be immediately collected and burned. If bark breaks are noticeable on garden plants, then it must be carefully cleaned and lubricated with a solution of the same copper sulfate or copper oil. In this case, lubrication of the bark with Bordeaux liquid or a carbolineum solution will also be effective. Many people use sulfur-lime liquid to treat infected crops, but it should be remembered that treatment with it should be carried out two weeks before cutting flowers.

If we talk about bulbs, then it would be best to disinfect them immediately before planting. To do this, they are heated in a water bath, preheated to 50 degrees. This approach often allows you to completely get rid of rust spores.