How to choose a toilet fill valve? Flush mechanism for the toilet: varieties, installation and maintenance Ball valve flush tank.

The cistern valve is used to supply water to the toilet bowl. According to the type of fastening, fittings can be with or side supply. The shut-off valve has a simple principle of operation, which allows you to independently eliminate possible malfunctions associated with its operation. The article will consider its structure, main components, causes of leakage and methods of repair.

cistern valve

The inlet valve is responsible for collecting and blocking the incoming water into the toilet. In systems of the Soviet era, fittings with a stem float valve were mounted. It was distinguished by a slow, uneven set of water, a high level of noise. The only advantage of such a system is the possibility of normal operation even with variable or extremely low water pressure.

The new compact toilets are equipped with fittings with a membrane valve. The set of water occurs quickly and almost silently, the supply is shut off without delay. For uninterrupted operation, pressure is required, not lower than 0.05-0.1 atmospheres and not higher than 1-2 atmospheres. In addition, the water entering the device must be free from pieces of rust and other contaminants, otherwise this will lead to rapid clogging and the need for frequent disassembly for cleaning.

The device and principle of operation of the membrane valve of the drain tank

The work of shut-off valves is conditionally divided into several stages. Let's consider each of them in more detail:

Stage 1. The valve is open, water is drawn into the tank.

The pressure of the liquid in the pipe acts on the membrane, pushing it to the side, which allows the process of filling the tank to begin. The number 1 indicates the inlet to the pre-fill chamber. The latter also has a hole that passes water directly into the tank. The mechanism also has a membrane (number 3) and a piston (4).

There is a hole in the membrane through which a rod with a hole marked with the number 5 is put on. Its diameter is approximately 1mm. With its help, the liquid penetrates into the filling chamber created by the piston and the membrane. When in the down position, hole number 6 in the piston is open, allowing a small amount of water to enter the tank. As a result, an approximately equal pressure is achieved in the preliminary and filling chambers, as well as outside them. This condition is the main difference between diaphragm and stem valves.

Stage 2. Rise of the float due to the filling of the tank.

The liquid-expelled float floats, moving the stem with the seal to the inlet, indicated by the number 6. The subsequent movement shifts the diaphragm with a large seat. This ensures the tightness of the filling chamber, thereby stopping the intake of water.

Stage 3. Drain.

When the drain button is pressed, the float lowers, ceasing to act on the stem. It opens the hole in the piston, relieving the pressure in the filling chamber. The pressure of the liquid in the pipe pushes the diaphragm with the piston, starting the procedure described in the first stage.

Tank valve repair

First, consider the problem when the drain tank valve does not hold. Even when the tank chamber is completely filled, the valve continues to pass liquid in small volumes. Excessive water overflows over the top of the flush mechanism, draining into the toilet bowl. To fix the leak, follow these steps:

1. Perform a water shutoff.
2. Remove and disassemble the float armature.
3. Take a used toothbrush and clean the inside of the valve chamber to remove any debris, rust, or other debris.
4. Assemble and install fittings in place. Turn on the water supply and check for proper operation.

If the leak is not fixed, you will have to purchase a new shut-off valve. There are no other repair methods, or they will come out more expensive than the purchase of a new part.

As a second malfunction, consider the case when the toilet cistern flows through the valve. The reason for this is the wear of the seals installed between the fittings and the hole at the bottom of the tank.

1. 1. Shut off the water and unscrew the nut under the tank. This will release the armature and allow you to get it out.
   2. Remove and replace all existing seals. In some cases, there are two elastic bands, inside and outside. But often the seal is installed only inside. You can buy it on the market or in a specialized plumbing store.
   3. After installing a new rubber gasket, assemble the fittings in reverse order.

The third problem may be the lack of water shutoff due to the incorrect position of the float. When the tank is already full and the liquid began to overflow into the toilet bowl, then the float is fixed too high. Twist the plastic stem to lower the float lower. The float pushed out by the water will begin to act on the valve, shutting off the flow.

The article examined the drain tank valve, the principle of its operation, the device and possible malfunctions. Repair of the inlet valve of the drain tank consists in cleaning it from dirt. If one of the components of the device breaks down, the owner will have to buy a new armature, since spare parts are usually not provided. Replacing the rubber seals in devices with bottom connections will help eliminate water leakage to the outside.

In any modern residential building, apartment or office, an integral part of comfortable living and working conditions is the presence of a toilet room. The central place in this room is occupied by such a plumbing device as a toilet.

The effectiveness of this device is determined by many factors - the proper organization of the sewer system, compliance with all the nuances of connecting to the drain and water pipes.

But the main structural element of any toilet bowl is a drain tank, on the normal functioning of which ergonomics and ease of use depend. After all, if the flushing system fails, most of the advantages of arranging a toilet room within the living / working area of ​​​​the building are leveled. How is the toilet cistern arranged?

The classic fitting for the toilet cistern provides the presence of the following functional elements and devices:

• water tank with lid;
• button (or lever) control;
• water collection system;
• drain system;
• overflow system.

Mechanism for collecting water in a container

The second name of this node is a float valve. The main elements of this control mechanism are:

• stop valve;
• float;
• fitting with a water supply tube;
• float suspension rod.

The principle of operation of the float valve is as follows: When the water level in the tank falls below the set level (i.e., after draining), the float lowers, activating the water inlet valve.

Then the incoming liquid raises the float, and upon reaching the upper limit set float rod closes the valve by stopping the water supply.

The filler hole was gradually blocked, along with the rise of the float. Modern mechanisms allow you to cover it at the same time(when the float reaches the top position), which significantly increases the speed of filling the container.

There are two ways to organize the supply of water to the drain tank:. Most domestic models of tanks are made with a top connection. This method is somewhat easier to implement, but has one drawback - an increased noise level during the collection of water.

More advanced models of drain tanks are equipped with filling system with bottom connection. This option is almost silent, which significantly increases the comfort of using the plumbing fixture. In addition, the bottom connection looks more aesthetic.

Installation of top connection fittings is carried out after, and bottom connection fittings are usually mounted before the procedure for fixing the tank.

Drainage device

The progenitor of the drain design was a scheme based on the use of a pear-shaped plug made of soft rubber. To operate the mechanism it was necessary to lift up the bar attached to the cork.

Modern designs are implemented somewhat differently. Today, the flush mechanism for the toilet cistern is a single system combined with a filling mechanism operated by a button or lever.

Moreover, the trend towards conservation of natural resources has led to the emergence of combined consisting of two parts. When you press the smaller segment, a small amount of water is drained, and when the larger one is activated, the tank is completely emptied.

In most cases, modern cistern flush fittings are made from inexpensive plastic. The main elements of the flush mechanism for the toilet are:

• drain valve;
• thrust.

The design and operation of the overflow

In addition to the above mechanisms, modern toilet cisterns are also equipped with an overflow system - a safety device that prevents the tank from overflowing and water flowing out to the premises in case of failure of the autofill system. It is a plastic overflow tube, usually part of the cistern drain system.

This tube is usually located vertically along the axis of the drain hole. The top edge with a bell for more efficient draining is located 10-15 millimeters from the maximum water level in the tank.

In the event of an emergency, that is, failure to close the inlet valve during the filling of water, overflow mechanism will send excess liquid to the toilet, thereby securing the floor surface of the toilet room and the finishing of a similar room of neighbors from below.

There are also modifications of valve sets for toilet flush tanks that provide a separate outlet for the overflowing liquid, but since they are not unified, that is, they are suitable only for specific, now obsolete models of toilet storage tanks, they are not relevant today.

What happens when a lever/button is pressed?

Initially, the rod is activated, which lifts the cork pear - the shut-off valve of the drain unit, as a result of which water from the storage tank freely enters the toilet, washing its working surface, and then enters the sewer. After cork under the influence of its own weight is in place blocking the flow of water into the toilet.

Simultaneously with the drop in the water level in the tank, the shut-off valve of the inlet mechanism opens and the tank is filled with working fluid. This process stops when the float reaches the top position, which usually set 20-30 millimeters lower side openings of the tank.

In this video you can get acquainted with the device and the principle of operation of the drain tank:

The most common faults

1. in place of threaded connections. It is usually caused by an incorrect connection (when the nut is screwed on skewed, loose) or failure.
2. Water flows non-stop from the tank into the toilet, that is . There may be several reasons for this: the ingress of a foreign object between the drain hole and the plug, a skew or a violation of the tightness of the plastic float.
   

   Also, a common cause is loosening of fastening or breakdown of mechanical elements - plastic rods, float.

3. When the control button is pressed, the drain does not occur. This can be caused, again, by the appearance of significant backlash at the joints, breakage of the plastic elements of the system. May be required.
4. - even after the tank is completely empty, the filling mechanism does not work. This occurs as a result of improper operation of the float or clogging of the intake membrane.

The device of a modern drain tank is by no means as complicated as it seems at first glance. Any person who is more or less versed in technology is able to study it, after which he will be able to independently mount the toilet tank, adjust the fittings and make the necessary ones in case of malfunctions.

For various models of toilet bowls, the cistern device is almost the same and consists of a body with a lid, a button for draining water, an inlet (filler) valve, a plug and a drain valve.

One of the most important components of this design is the intake valve, which regulates the amount of water in the tank.

Purpose

This mechanism:

• regulates the flow of water into the tank to a certain level,
• releases water into the toilet when the trigger is pressed,
• ensures the presence of a constant amount of liquid during pressure drops in the water supply.

The operation of the valve begins due to a decrease in the pressure of the water that flows into the tank with the simultaneous ascent of the float. When a critical level is reached, the lever closes the valve, and the liquid stops flowing into the tank.

Classification

Inlet mechanisms can be divided into groups according to three criteria:

• material composition,
• location,
• construction type.

By material

• brass or bronze. Products made from these alloys are practical, durable, reliable and completely resistant to corrosion. But such metal valves have a rather high cost.
• Plastic. Plastic products are very popular, because, along with a long service life, they are quite inexpensive.

By location

It is necessary to choose inlet units depending on the design of the toilet bowl. Also, when choosing, you must adhere to the following rules:

• The complete set of goods should include the valve itself, the float, o-rings and the fixing nut.
• O-rings must be elastic, of correct shape and without defects.
• The plastic element should not have visible scratches and notches.
• The movement of the float should be smooth, without sudden jumps.

By type of construction

Once the valves were ball valves, the device had the form of a ball, which was used in all tanks. The modern device is called an inlet, as it has no resemblance to the design of ball mechanisms, but is used together with a float. There are several types of float devices for the toilet cistern:

• Croydon valves consist of a shell, a float with a lever and a piston with a seat. In this mechanism, the movement of the lever is perpendicular to the operation of the piston. Such a system is used in old tanks and has a fairly low price.
• Piston equipped with a bifurcated hairpin with a lever axle. Here, the water is adjusted by horizontally raising the lever that drives the piston, at the end of which there is a special seal that comes into contact with the seat and blocks the flow of fluid. This is a fairly common model and is included in the middle price category.
• Membrane instead of a gasket, the valves have a rubber or silicone membrane that moves when the piston moves. This is the latest device that is used only in the latest models of toilet bowls. The advantages of this valve include a quick intake of water, instant shutoff of the liquid intake and, depending on the quality of the fittings, silent filling of the tank. Among the shortcomings, one should take into account the presence of a constant pressure of water in the system (0.05-0.1 MPa) and the purity of the liquid, since if the membrane is damaged, it is impossible to replace it on its own. In this case, you will have to purchase the entire intake mechanism.

Possible malfunctions and their elimination

Before you figure out the possible reasons for the breakdown of the inlet valve, you need to turn off the tap of the water supply system, open the tank lid and drain the remaining water from the tank. If necessary, pull out the device itself.

No water in the tank

• Reason #1: clogged holes. In this case, you should disassemble the device, clean and rinse its elements.
• Reason number 2: low water pressure or its jumps. In this problem, it must be taken into account that with a weak flow of water and a high location of the tank, the liquid will not approach the filling chamber, the float will pop up, but the water will not shut off. You can try to increase the inlets by 3 mm, and in the case of constant surge pressure, it is better to purchase a stem valve.

Constant flow of water into the toilet

• Reason #1: skewed float. Repair consists only in fixing the intake valve in place.
• Reason number 2: violation of the tightness of the gasket (damage to the membrane or stem). In this case, a complete replacement of the mechanism is necessary.

Noisy filling of water in the tank

• Reason #1: Disconnecting the water silencer. To correct the situation, the muffler should be adjusted to a special fitting.

Conclusion

For urban environments, a low outlet float inlet valve with a silicone membrane and a full and small drain button is well suited. For country houses with untreated water, it is better to purchase a piston version.

It is necessary to buy a filling mechanism according to the parameters of the tank. If there are none, then you can take universal ones with a side supply, suitable for any type of toilet tank. And it is better to entrust the repair and installation of the device to specialists.

The toilet in every home is an element of everyday life, without which it is simply impossible to do. It is operated much more often than all other plumbing fixtures. That is why it fails more often than other devices. And its most vulnerable component is the tank, which consists of several internal components. Their mechanical damage, as well as careless handling of the tank are the reasons for the loss of this device of its performance. In the article, we will look at how to repair a toilet cistern with a button on our own, without calling a plumber team.

All drain tanks have a similar design. The difference is only in the mechanism of starting water.

Structurally, a toilet cistern with a button or two buttons, as well as a flush lever, can be represented as a set of interacting nodes:

• filling valve. He is responsible for maintaining the water level at a certain level. The valve is controlled by a hollow float. When the water rises to the desired level, the float closes the water supply channel to the tank;
• Plastic float attached to the filling valve. Works on the principle of a rocker, rising when filling the tank;
• drain valve having an overflow system. Modern tank options involve controlling this valve by pressing a button. With manual control of the old-style drain, it is enough to pull the lever or chain to start water into the toilet;
• overflow is a mandatory component of the tank. It is adjustable in height, thanks to which the maximum water level is set. When this level is exceeded, water flows through the overflow pipe into the sewer without spilling out through its walls.

The main structural elements and the principle of operation of the mechanism are the same for all types of drain tanks, only their execution differs

A tank with a mechanical drain is very simple to operate. Water enters it through the filling valve when the float is in the lowered position. After reaching a strictly defined level, the float shuts off the water supply. Drainage is controlled manually. If the tank is equipped with buttons, then the water is drained after pressing them. In this case, the drain valve partially or completely opens, passing water into the toilet. The float drops, slightly opening the filling valve.

The structure of the toilet flush tank with two buttons is a little more complicated, but you can use such a tank more economically. If you press one of the buttons, the water is partially drained. Full drain occurs when the second button is pressed.

Increasingly, you can find new types of tanks that have bottom water connection. It is advisable to install them if the use of lateral connection is not possible due to lack of space. The main difference between this tank is the presence of a membrane valve. Under the action of water pressure in the pipeline, the valve opens slightly and allows water to enter. When the water rises, the float presses on the piston rod, which gradually closes the diaphragm valve. When the set level is reached, the valve closes completely.

Fittings with bottom water inlet and button control

Common faults

Drain malfunctions may well lead to the loss of the toilet bowl of its performance. For many, such a sudden breakdown can be a real natural disaster. In addition, no one will like the increased water consumption either.

About what it is and what types it happens, read in a separate material.

And how to choose and in what situations it is necessary, we told in another article on the site.

What kind of breakdowns are typical for drain tanks? We list them in order of frequency of occurrence:

1. Leakage of water from the toilet to the floor. Most often, water flows through the sealing ring located between the bottom of the tank and the toilet shelf. If the ring is cracked or warped, water will seep through it. Also, the place of leakage may be the gaskets of the mounting bolts with which the tank is attached to the shelf. They will have to be replaced if tightening the bolts does not work. And it doesn't matter if the cistern of an old-style toilet bowl is being repaired, or a modern system is being repaired. After all, they all have the same mounts.

Tip: When replacing gaskets and seals, it is recommended to lubricate them with liquid silicone to prolong their life and prevent cracking.

2. There is a constant flow of water in the toilet. Most often this is due to the overflow of the tank, in which water flows out through the overflow tube. This can happen due to a change in the height of the overflow, a loose fit of the float to the shut-off valve, and the loss of its tightness by the float. The rubber seal on the drain fitting may also be worn. Most often, the malfunction can be eliminated by adjustment. When the locking gasket is worn, it is desirable to replace the entire drain mechanism.

3. Starter malfunctions. If you are using a push-button water dispenser, water may not flow to the drain when the button is pressed. You can repair the fittings of the drain tank with your own hands, since, most often, the lever mechanism that connects the button to the drain breaks. This also applies to tanks with a handle or a chain.

4. Noisy tank filling. This happens due to the disconnection of the tube through which water is poured into the tank. This is typical for tanks in which water is supplied from the side. With a flown tube, the noise of incoming water will be clearly audible. To fix the problem, remove the top cover and install the tube on the fitting.

5. Water does not flow into the tank. Repairing a toilet cistern with a button or with other descent mechanisms in the event of such a problem comes down to checking the inlet to the cistern. It is necessary to remove the valve from the tank and clean the inlet with a thin steel wire and rinse it with water.

Tank repair with one button

Many people who are accustomed to old-style cisterns do not know how to fix a toilet bowl flush with a button. In fact, the differences between these systems are very minor. For many, the main problem is disassembling such a tank. Indeed, the button located on the tank lid requires careful handling during disassembly. But the device is very easy to disassemble.

The procedure will be as follows:

• turn off the water;
• empty the tank;
• carefully unscrew the plastic nut near the button;
• remove the cover.

Further actions depend on the nature of the breakdown. Breakdowns of a tank with a button can be as follows:

1. Little water is drawn into the tank. Check float position and adjust.
2. The water start button is stuck. This may be due to clogging of the button shaft. It is necessary to clean it, and set the button to its original position.
3. Water does not go into the toilet when the button is pressed. Most likely, there was a break in the mechanism between the button and the drain valve. You can restore it yourself. If this fitting is broken, then you can use copper wire to replace it or replace the valve completely.
4. Water flows through the overflow neck. Overflow height or float needs to be adjusted. The overflow is very easy to adjust. To do this, unscrew the union nut and set the desired overflow level.
5. Water flows into the toilet from under the valve. The drain valve gasket may have worn out. It is best to replace the entire valve. To do this, unscrew the plastic nut at the bottom of the tank and remove the valve from its place. Install a new valve.

Note: It happens that the valve is loosely in place due to skew. Re-opening and closing it helps eliminate the problem of leakage.

Repair of a two-button tank

Economical water consumption adds popularity to such a plumbing fixture. And how to repair a toilet flush tank with two buttons? The principle of disassembling such a tank remains the same as that of the one-button version.

Typical breakdowns of a two-button tank:

Repair of a tank with a bottom water connection

A tank with a bottom water connection uses a membrane-type filling valve. This may cause a problem with filling the tank with low pressure in the water supply system. The water pressure may not be enough to squeeze the valve and fill the tank. If your system is constantly maintained at low pressure, then it is better to replace the diaphragm valve with a rod analogue.

Another common problem is water leakage at the inlet valve reservoir. Its location is such that the valve is constantly under water. With insufficient tightness of the connections, the presence of leaks is almost guaranteed.

Repair of the toilet cistern with a lower water supply is carried out after shutting off the water supply and removing the cistern lid. After that, the problem is fixed using the same algorithms that are described for repairing models with buttons.

We figured out how to repair a flush tank with a button, with two buttons or with mechanical control. They differ slightly, mainly in the design of the control mechanism. The general principle of operation and repair for all considered devices is the same.

The video shows the repair of the toilet cistern with your own hands, or rather, the process of replacing its fittings.

23-05-2013: Vladimir

Thanks for the valuable information! The inlet valve on the SA2000S valve failed after three years of flawless operation. On your recommendation, the cause has been eliminated - blockage of hole 6. I cleaned it with a thin copper wire, the intake mechanism works fine. Hello Doctor Lom!

28-06-2013: Porter

Thank you for the article. Helped a lot. The video was especially helpful. When disassembling the fittings, the membrane fell out and therefore the water did not overlap. I could not understand what was the matter, and after watching your video, I began to search for the membrane and found it - everything fell into place. Great site.

23-07-2013: Igorek

And I have this situation: there is a membrane valve (Pskov), but the pear (old) slightly lets water through with a micro-jet (if the tank is not filled to the top and the pear is not loaded). And then the water gradually runs away to the level when the valve float sinks and it begins to draw water. But the whole thing is that it does not open completely normally. And it twitches - back and forth, then opens, then closes the water and there is a knock and vibration in the pipe: tu-tu-tu. And so without stopping for hours can drive. I think this is not the case - the hose can damage the idea. And what to do is not clear. At least put the old inlet valve - which is a rod valve, not a diaphragm one - at least it will not “pull” the hoses and pipes if the pear slightly leaks. What do you think?

23-07-2013: Igorek

Plus I forgot to add. When water is drawn in and the valve is open, then water seeps over the "flare nut" - which is on the freeze frame of the video. Is this normal or shouldn't it be? And secondly, if you take a stem valve (not a diaphragm valve), is it better to use a plastic fitting or a metal one?

23-07-2013: Dr. Lom

In your case, it is really better to put a stem valve. I prefer metal.
When the membrane valve is open, water can enter the tank not only through the main hole, this is not critical if the valve works and shuts off the water. But this can also happen if the nut is not tight.

25-07-2013: Valentine

Thanks for the description with pictures. I have a different float design. But it's not that. for me, an amateur plumber, the drawings are not very clear and the description is not very clear, there are questions. it is not clear why a stem "with a hole threaded into the hole of the membrane" is needed? the figure does not show the "filling chamber formed by the piston 4 and the membrane 3". it is not clear what the diameter of holes 1 and 2 is. It is also not clear how it can all work if, as a result, water enters through holes 1 and 0.5 mm - judging by the sediment on the walls of the tank, these holes should clog very quickly. why don't they get stuck? "When the float is lowered, the hole (6) with a diameter of about 0.5 mm in the piston (4) is open, through which part of the water flows into the tank" - and how does the other part of the water get into the tank? "... or the membrane (3) or the rubber seal of the stem has deteriorated. All this can be washed and cleaned ..." - if you clean the "deteriorated" membrane - will it be corrected from this? my valve stopped completely shutting off the water, disassembled and recleaned it all three times, but never found out why the water does not overlap. usually it's a rubber gasket (membrane), but it looks elastic and without damage.

25-07-2013: Dr. Lom

I will try to at least partially satisfy your curiosity.
The lack of visibility of the drawings should be compensated by the video, where you can see, in particular, how a filling chamber is formed during the assembly of the reinforcement. The rod is necessary to redistribute the pressure that has arisen in the accumulation chamber. If there is no stem, then the rubber membrane will not be tightly pressed against the end of the preliminary chamber, therefore, it will not ensure the tightness of the joint.
The diameter of the holes depends on the design of the valves and, as already mentioned, is the result of a complex hydraulic calculation.
Holes can be clogged with solid particles contained in water, but not silted up, because the rate of fluid outflow with a small hole diameter is very high (the laws of hydraulics - nothing can be done). This means that a turbulent flow is formed in the area of ​​the water outflow, which prevents the particles suspended in the water from settling. In addition, the relatively fast closing of the hole by the float rod leads to a sharp decrease in the rate of fluid outflow, which causes water hammer (probably noticed that the valve works with a characteristic sound and even the fittings sometimes twitch). For example, clogging of the filter at the valve inlet means a decrease in the inlet diameter, and hence a decrease in the pressure of the water supplied to the valve. As a result, the water cannot develop the speed necessary for water hammer and the valve does not work as required.
The main part of the water enters the tank through the preliminary chamber, this chamber is sealed when the valve is actuated.
Flushing or purging helps if solid particles have entered the holes or between the diaphragm and the piston. If the elastic characteristics of the membrane change during operation, the valve will stop working correctly and then it only needs to be changed.
And yet, nowhere in the article does it say that fittings with diaphragm valves are a simple and reliable system that can be easily repaired. As a rule, inlet fittings with a diaphragm valve are changed every 3-5 years.

25-07-2013: Anatoly

I have Ceresit fittings and such a problem, sometimes the tank is filled very slowly, water flows only from hole 6, that is, the membrane is not squeezed out, although the pressure is not very small. At the same time, the design itself is such that the rod only covers this hole and does not move anywhere else, and the 2 chambers are automatically locked by a membrane, there is no piston.
Will it help me if I increase the resp. 6?
And are there any 3/8 rod mechanisms, I have such an outlet on the tank.

25-07-2013: Valentine

Thanks for the detailed explanations. but you confused me again. Can you please clarify what a "camera" is? You haven't come across such a term. redistribution of pressure between what and what? how can a rod (i.e., a rod, as I understand it) redistribute pressure? By the way, what is this rod attached to, is it not just inserted into the membrane? why without it "the rubber membrane will not be tightly pressed against the end of the preliminary chamber"? Does the rod fix the membrane and possibly prevent it from deforming? (I, by the way, have this membrane somehow thin and curly, i.e. not flat and I don’t think there is a chamber between it and the piston, I didn’t even manage to pull it off the valve). "... the water cannot develop the speed necessary for water hammer and the valve does not work as required ..." - i.e. must there always be water hammer for proper operation? but why? this is incomprehensible.
and about low pressure: you write that at low water pressure it will not flow into the tank at all, and at the same time the float will rise, but will not be able to block the water. this somehow doesn’t fit me at all: so due to what will the float rise if the water does not flow into the tank, and what should it block if the water does not flow?
and yet, you write that the diameter of the holes is 5 and 6 (you indicated their size) ".. is the result of a complex hydraulic calculation ..." and then you offer to drill them by eye. (by the way, I asked about the diameter of holes 1 and 2)

25-07-2013: Valentine

Anatoly, try unscrewing the cap a little (a quarter of a turn), it may be pinching the membrane (it’s strange that you don’t have a piston, maybe you didn’t notice it?)

25-07-2013: Dr. Lom

Anatoly,

In the figures, the distance from the membrane to the pre-chamber is shown more for clarity. In fact, the movement is measured in fractions of a millimeter, so no special movement is needed.
Probably Cersanit, Ceresit seems to be only involved in various kinds of mixtures.
If the water pressure is normal without fittings, and the water intake does not always slow down, then either the float does not go down to the end due to interference in the tank or the float design is not successful (this happens), or when assembling the fittings, the cap nut is too tightly clamped, which sometimes interferes with the normal intake of water, since the distance between the membrane and the preliminary chamber is less than required, or simply the fittings are not of very high quality and should be replaced.
An increase in the diameter of the hole 6 can lead to a decrease in the flow rate and, as a result, incorrect operation of the valve. You should rather increase holes 1 or 2. However, there are many diaphragm valve designs now.
If you mean 3/8 inlet fittings with a stem valve, as in Soviet toilets, then I have not seen one like that.

25-07-2013: Dr. Lom

Valentine,

Agreed - a filling chamber.
Under the rod, I meant a round plastic plate on which the membrane is put on. The plate is not shown in the figures, as it is located inside the filling chamber, the principle of operation of the plate is the same as that of the stem. The plate, as it were, covers the preliminary chamber, while the membrane acts as a rubber gasket that ensures tightness. You called this plate a valve, which is not quite right.
If the pressure in the water supply network is low, then the pressure in the filling chamber is low and it is not enough to tightly press the membrane. The diameter of the inlet (1) is usually several times larger than the diameters of the holes (5) and (6). Therefore, the lower the pressure at the entry point - hole (1), the greater the pressure difference in the pre-chamber and filling chamber
Water hammer is not necessary if the pressure in the filling chamber is sufficient, but as a rule, the operation of the diaphragm valve is accompanied by water hammer, moreover, during shock, the membrane tightly closes the preliminary chamber for as long as the float rod continues to move.
I wrote that "at VERY low pressure", i.e. at such a pressure when there is not enough pressure even to overcome the local resistance of small diameter holes. But low pressure and very low pressure are still different things. Inlet fittings with a membrane valve are usually equipped with a filter at the water inlet, and this is an additional local resistance that water cannot overcome at very low pressure.

25-07-2013: Valentine

Thank you for your answer, but each of your answers gives me new questions.
in fact, I always thought that the stem is a rod, usually used to connect two parts, but not a plate, which I call a valve, so I hesitated and decided to clarify what you had in mind.
further: "If the pressure in the water supply network is low, then the pressure in the filling chamber is low and it is not enough to press the membrane tightly." - as I understand it, it is not the pressure in the filling chamber that presses the membrane (by 99.99%) (what is the volume of this chamber, if it is of such importance for shutting off water? - well, a couple of milliliters - no more, the pressure in it should be = pressure in the preliminary chamber, although you write about the pressure difference (where does the difference come from, even if water does not enter there, but there is no air there?), And why should it press down, and not evenly in all directions?), But the rod, about which are you talking about in phase 2, which is pressed by a lever with a float that rises with the water? therefore, why the water will not overlap, even if the pressure is VERY low, if the water, as you write, still enters the tank and raises the float, is still not clear.
however, perhaps I'm wrong, but it seems to me that in fact everything is much simpler - it's all about the gasket (membrane), otherwise, given that the water pressure does not match in any apartment, a "complex hydraulic calculation" would have to be carried out for each tank.

25-07-2013: Dr. Lom

I must say right away that I cannot explain the laws of hydrodynamics to you on my fingers, and there is no point in commenting on each individual phrase taken out of context. For example, I mentioned the pressure difference when I told you about the possible reasons for the valve not working, but I wrote about the approximate equality of pressures when I described the principle of the valve. You put these two statements on the same line, causing you to misunderstand.
For reliable operation of the valve, the pressure in the water supply network must be at least 0.05 MPa, which is 0.5 atmospheres or 5 m of water column. The working pressure parameters are given in the passport for each product and may differ from those given in the article. The diaphragm valve can operate at much lower pressures, but even the current GOST does not require this. Nevertheless, the operating pressure limits are very wide, which makes it possible to install fittings with such valves in many apartments.
How, when the pressure drops below 0.01 MPa in the water supply network, the membrane valve stops not only working, but even just holding water and water, overflowing the tank, flows into the toilet bowl with a sometimes tangible flow (up to 3 liters per minute), observed repeatedly, while the float lifted to the limit.
And yet, if you make your own description of the principle of operation of the membrane valve, then I will only welcome it. If you want, I will even post your description in a separate article. Since any opinion is valuable and I, like you, can be wrong.

26-07-2013: Valentine

Sorry for the meticulousness, I didn't mean to offend you, I just wish you could explain a little more in detail, because this is important for a complete understanding.
If you didn’t notice, I didn’t put YOUR two statements about the sameness and difference in pressure in one row (the fact that you attributed this to different cases, I understood) - it was purely my assumption (possibly incorrect) that the pressures should be in any case the same - and I wrote why I think so. in this case, I would like you to indicate (if you know this and without going into the explanation of the laws of hydrodynamics) where the pressure is higher and where it is lower, and how much, since. for me it remained incomprehensible.
therefore, the fact that, as you write, at below 0.01 MPa, the water overflows the tank, and the float is raised to the limit and its pressure is not enough for the valve to reliably close the inlet - for me it is a paradox.
why I became interested in this topic at all - the valve stopped completely shutting off the water (although it costs 8 years), in appearance (after cleaning the raid) - like new, and there is a water hammer, and the membrane looks elastic and without damage, but does not work!

26-07-2013: Dr. Lom

I'm not offended, but I feel that illustrations, perhaps formulas, should be added to our dialogue for better mutual understanding, but this is impossible in the commentary format. If you want - register on the forum (link on the main page) and we will continue the discussion of the issue there.
In the meantime, I repeat, in order for the membrane to be tightly pressed against the walls of the preliminary chamber, the pressure from the side of the filling chamber must be greater. This is achieved due to the fact that the pressure in the chambers is approximately the same, but additional pressure acts from the side of the filling chamber - the force pushing the float out.
This is a general statement of the condition and thus a necessary but not sufficient condition for the normal operation of the valve. Since with such a formulation, we consider some average pressures acting on the membrane from two sides, over the entire area of ​​the membrane. Meanwhile, the value of pressure along the height or width of the membrane (diagrams should have been given here) changes. The value of pressure at a certain point of the membrane is influenced by many factors, these are the elasticity of the membrane and the geometry of all parts. Therefore, under certain conditions, for example at a low overall pressure, the local pressure on the side of the pre-chamber can be greater than the local pressure on the side of the filling chamber.
And now let's get back to your situation, although it should have started the conversation with its consideration. The valve works fine for you, but water continues to be drawn into the tank after the valve is triggered - did I understand correctly? Or does the water continue to fill at the same rate?

26-07-2013: Valentine

Thanks again, more detailed drawings with diagrams would not hurt, but now something is clearing up, so no need to fool around, especially since only I have general questions, and the other day I'm going on vacation.
I’m saying that I was forced to become interested in this, because. I’m tinkering with the float for the third evening, but due to the fact that the only element that I doubt about the design (although it looks like new) - membranes (or with a piston) - cannot be changed, you will have to change the entire intake system.
yes, you understood my case correctly: the valve works (water hammer), after which the water slowly continues to flow and after 5 minutes it rises by 2 cm and overflow is already in progress. moreover, I experimented - and pressed the float lever with my hand, and removed the float and pressed my finger on the valve instead of the stem - the water does not overlap.

26-07-2013: Dr. Lom

If water continues to flow slowly after the valve has been activated, then one of the chambers is depressurized. There can be many reasons, wear of the rubber on the float rod, as a result of which the hole (6) does not completely overlap, but you seem to have ruled out this possibility. Defects and microcracks, but as a rule loose abutment. A loose connection can be not only as a result of silting, ingress of solid particles, but also with imperceptible wear of parts or as a result of accumulated inelastic deformations. In such cases, a complete replacement of the inlet fittings is the optimal solution in terms of time and money.

11-08-2013: Arthur

I will add a little about the design of such valves. According to the principle of operation, they are also called associated pressure valves, while the "Soviet" ones are called back pressure valves. The stem threaded into the membrane may not be connected to the float at all and may not have a full-fledged hole, instead of it there is a notch that performs the drainage function. The valve is closed only by sealing the chamber adjacent to the outer side of the membrane, the membrane is pressed to the seat only by water pressure, not having a direct connection with the float system. The float in this embodiment serves only to block the tiny drainage hole that drains the chamber adjacent to the outer side of the membrane. This design option is used, for example, in the Russian fittings of the Pskov plant. By the way, surprisingly, I even managed to find spare membranes for it in the markets (!). The second common feature of the design of such valves is the use of a float chamber, when the float floats in a special cup equipped with a drain valve. When water is drawn in, the drain valve of the cup is buried, the tank is filled, the water level reaches the edges of the glass, fills it and, thus, the float moves up quickly and the valve operates more clearly, a more stable level in the tank is achieved. When the water level drops, the glass is emptied through the drain valve in its bottom.

11-08-2013: Dr. Lom

Minor additions and clarifications. Thank you.
When writing the article, I did not focus on the details you indicated, but now the article will be more complete and, I hope, more understandable.

15-08-2013: orderly Petrovich

Oh, dear, I deleted your inquisition by mistake. Yes, the plumber is right all the same, change the inlet fittings, since the entry is buggy, there will be no sense from it.

10-11-2013: Alexander

Tell me, please, the toilet bowl of Ido Arabia last year was changed to a native fixture or something like that. Now there is a problem - it does not collect water, it mostly happens at night. When you turn on the water in the bath, the toilet works and begins to draw water. And so again until night, everything repeats, jammed, opened the faucet in the bathroom, closed it - the toilet worked. Pressure, is it changing?

10-11-2013: Dr. Lom

I encountered this when using pumps that increase the pressure in the water supply network, which automatically turn on when the tap is opened. Such pumps do not react to the inlet fittings of toilet bowls. Perhaps you have a similar situation.

10-11-2013: Alexander

An ordinary single-entrance 17-storey house built in 1995. Do you suppose that such pumps are installed in such houses?

10-11-2013: Dr. Lom

Anything happens.

17-12-2013: Valery

In the video, after disassembling the float valve, a black hole is visible between the four stops. Should the stem connected to the float protrude through it, or is it just a hole? On the diagram - yes, but in nature it is not visible.

17-12-2013: Dr. Lom

If you mean fittings with a lower supply, then this hole is exactly blocked from the back side by the float rod. Valve designs are different, the diagram shows one of the options to explain the principle of operation. It is really difficult to show all the details in the video.

26-04-2014: Anatoly

The valve does not hold water, slowly tops up to the edge of the drain pipe ((((((I spent time reading the article .... in general, I found the check whether the valve works or not ... if you blow into the water supply pipe and close the water outlet in the tank and close with a lever, the hole that is closed by the float, then the air should not pass. I have the lower supply shown in the video and the membrane, in addition to its immediate function, acts as a gasket between the chambers. In general, the gasket did not work and there was no tightness of the chambers when the drainage holes and water supply to the tank were closed. I wrapped the tape around the edge of the membrane and pulled it tighter ... it became better ... I used to add 1 cm in the tank in 10 minutes now in half a day))))

26-04-2014: Anatoly

Closed for comments?

27-04-2014: orderly Petrovich

Mustache is open.

27-04-2014: Anatoly

Apparently the comment passes through professional analysis)))))

27-04-2014: Dr. Lom

Since 90-95% of comments are added by bots, and, as a rule, English-speaking ones, I introduced pre-moderation. I don't think users are very interested in sheets of generated almost meaningless text.

15-06-2014: Victor

I came across the same situation: the water in the drain tank gained a level, the float rose and after five minutes the water overflowed. I cured it very simply - I cleaned the filter at the inlet of the float valve. This is one of the very first reasons and it’s a pity that this is not shown on the video, although this filter is even visible on one valve. Many thanks to Dr. Lom are written and (chewed) everything is correct.

18-06-2014: Anton

Good afternoon. I have such a situation. Low pressure in the central water supply of a private house. I put a storage plastic tank. The pressure at night is normal, but it is not enough to push through the regular float valve, a trickle is running thinner than a match. Tell me which float valve can be installed.

18-06-2014: Dr. Lom

In such cases, it is better to use an inlet fitting with a stem valve rather than a diaphragm valve. These were used in old Soviet toilet bowls and are still sold today.

22-06-2014: Alexei

Good day to all! Who can advise me? I installed a toilet bowl, in the country, water supply from below, a membrane valve. Water is supplied from a 200 liter tank, there is little pressure to close the valve. How can I solve the problem, can someone tell me?

22-06-2014: Dr. Lom

It is possible to change valves with a diaphragm valve to valves with a stem valve. Also, sometimes it helps to install a pump that automatically turns on when the water is opened.

07-10-2014: ZEOS

Very useful information. Thank you. I didn’t know that there were holes ....... today, instead of buying a new one, I’ll try to clean the old one.

07-10-2014: Vladimir

The almost instantaneous closing of hole 2 by the membrane is explained by the presence of positive feedback, which sometimes causes a noticeable hydraulic shock (shudder of the flexible liner). The physics of the processes here is as follows: when the hole 6 begins to overlap, the pressure above the membrane increases, which causes it to move towards the hole 2. Partial overlap of the holes. 2 (reducing the flow through it), due to the continuity of the flow of incoming water to the valve inlet, it causes an increase in the flow of water into the filling chamber through the hole with the rod. The pressure above the membrane increases even more. The process becomes avalanche. As a result, the membrane simply sticks to hole 2, since there is practically no pressure behind hole 2, and above the membrane it is equal to water pressure.

14-12-2014: Sergey

The valve stopped working, took it apart, it turned out that the membrane had burst, there is no such one on the market. I made a mold, but in my opinion the wall turned out to be a little thicker and the membrane does not work, right now I will think about what to change.

07-03-2015: Ilya

Hello!
there was a strong whistle when filling the tank, I took it apart - I found a fishing line in the membrane, threw it away (I thought it was garbage). the whistling stopped for a while, but after 2 days it whistles again and the water overflows. I threw away the fishing line in vain. why is it whistling/buzzing? Thank you in advance.

07-03-2015: Dr. Lom

The higher the pressure in the water supply network, the more likely it is that various noises will appear when filling the toilet bowl. Sometimes the pressure can be adjusted with a valve on the supply pipe. However, if the valve does not hold water, then the fittings will most likely have to be changed, by the way, with strong pressure, the fittings fail faster.

13-05-2015: Denis

Hello!
a similar problem: the ROKA VICTORIA NORD toilet bowl with GEBERIT fittings (bottom water supply, float in the chamber), fills the tank normally, closes normally, but with a small amount of water (water flows into the toilet in a little thin stream), the valve opens with a specific whistle and after a few seconds when the tank is full, it closes again with a whistle. I have a 1st floor, the pressure in the system is decent (did not measure it). I tried to throttle the inlet ball valve - it doesn’t help - it whistles even at very small opening angles up to the complete closure of the valve. I don’t know whether to try to put a control valve in front of the inlet, it can clean the valve, its inlet filter (I haven’t done this yet, everything is new). please advise what to do?

14-05-2015: Dr. Lom

If water flows in a thin stream into the toilet bowl, then you need to take care of repairing not the inlet, but the drain fittings. The fact that when the water level decreases, the float drops and the inlet fitting starts to work - this is normal. But the fact that the laying of the drain valve is etching - no. More details in the article "Water constantly flows into the toilet bowl, what to do?".

08-06-2015: Ilya

Good day. I put inlet fittings (with a membrane) of the lateral water supply (1st floor). The crux of the matter is that water is being collected (already good :)), the float rises and the water overlaps, but it poisons the air in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe membrane, and after a while drops begin to siphon and then where the membrane stands, water constantly comes out. I tried to regulate the water supply with a tap, tried to disassemble and clean the membrane, the problem remains.

09-06-2015: Dr. Lom

Perhaps the fittings have a factory defect and should be replaced with a new one.

10-06-2015: Repaired)

Thank you!)

11-06-2015: Andrey

Good afternoon. I have a Jika Lyra toilet, they installed it today, the water supply tap rests against the wall, the water is supplied at half pressure. the tank is only half full. Could it be from the water pressure or is the valve regulated somehow?

12-06-2015: Dr. Lom

Try adjusting the float.

13-09-2015: Lena

Hello, The valve of the lower liner was leaking water, I dismantled it, cleaned it of rust, then it worked fine for a couple of months and started to leak again, I decided to replace it, I bought it and there a piece of fishing line sticks out of the hole in the membrane, this was not in the old valve, so I take it out or install it directly, why is it needed?

14-09-2015: Dr. Lom

In fact, you should contact the manufacturer with this question, because there are a lot of valve designs with a diaphragm valve. Perhaps this fishing line is needed for the project, so you do not touch it, but install the armature and check its operation. If the armature is not working, then it is better to return it.

14-09-2015: Lena

Thanks for the answer, I installed it as it is, it works well, it only makes noise before it closes, so be it, our water pressure in the house is sometimes weak, sometimes it beats. If it breaks, I'll buy another, this cheap one is 100 rubles.

15-09-2015: Tanya

Good afternoon. My membrane in the side valve has torn, now the valve is leaking, or rather it is splashing. can i buy the membrane separately? Cersanit compact, served 11 years

15-09-2015: Dr. Lom

Unfortunately, the realities of the modern era of consumption are such that it is now much easier and faster to buy a completely new intake valve than to look for a repair kit for valves that were produced 11 years ago. However, you can search for information about repair kits on the official website of the manufacturer or contact the nearest authorized Cersanit service center.

25-09-2015: Eugene

Thank you. Everything is very detailed and accessible. With the help of this information, I was able to overcome the valve leak: I cleaned it, rewound the stem to reduce the hole, added a filter. Flight is normal.

01-10-2015: Tatyana Mikhailovna

Hello! I want to repair the intake valve myself. I read everything here, I didn’t understand much, but I bought a membrane unit on the market, because its native membrane was torn (the seller took it out of the assembled valve and sold it for 200 rubles, and the entire valve was 500 rubles.) In general, I saved it, but when I collected everything at home and put it in the tank, it turned out that the valve does not shut off the water when the float rises. I suspect that the new piston does not fit in size, although the company is the same "Alkaplast". Do I think correctly and shouldn't I go to the market again and buy the rest of the valve? Thank you.

01-10-2015: Dr. Lom

It is more correct to change the valve as a whole, because the problem can be not only in the valve itself, but even the models of the valve, even from the same manufacturer, are different. Therefore, it is worth going to the market and buying the rest of the fittings, you all think correctly.

04-10-2015: Tatyana Mikhailovna

Hello! You can now ask about the outlet valve, when you press the water from the tank is drained, but the valve does not return to its place and the water already flows directly into the toilet, if you press the overflow pipe with your hand, the valve will close the flow of water into the toilet, but these are all actions with the open lid. Question: is it possible in this situation to fix something with your hands on the spot, well, except for how to change the valve? Thank you.

04-10-2015: Dr. Lom

Tatyana Mikhailovna, please see the article "Compact toilet is leaking, water constantly flows into the bowl, what to do." In addition, models of drain fittings are also different, sometimes it is possible to load the tube (attach some load to it in a certain way), but this method is not very reliable.

04-10-2015: Novel

Hello! I have a problem with the toilet. Water is slowly drawn into the tank, in about 10 minutes. And in the last few days it also flows heavily into the toilet and the water sometimes does not have time to fill up at all. Help solve the problem. Thanks in advance.

04-10-2015: Dr. Lom

As a rule, this happens when the filter on the inlet fitting is clogged or the pressure in the cold water supply system is greatly reduced. At low pressure, the valve stops working. Most often, cleaning the filters helps in such cases. But sometimes you have to change the entire armature.

27-10-2015: Micha

Hello. The apartment has 2 bathrooms plus one at the mother's house - a total of 3 toilets, all with membranes. The lower supply, although this is hardly essential. It is easy to guess that I often have to have fun with the replacement, I don’t do cleaning, because. after the very first case, I realized that this was a dead poultice.
IMHO, after several years of operation, the rubber of the membranes begins to "tan", i.e., lose elasticity, and, as far as I remember, each time the problem of "under-closing" of the next valve occurs closer to winter, when the temperature of tap water drops significantly. Perhaps the elasticity deteriorates only slightly, everything seems OK to the touch, but the ice water factor contributes.
Unfortunately, I could not find spare membranes in stores, so every time the solution is radical - a new inlet assembly. As a rule, I use Alcaplast (we haven't come across cooler/more expensive ones in our city). However, it was possible to use even some kind of Chinese non-name, which lasted for 5 years - bravo!

29-11-2015: Nicholas

Question! Picked up the toilet. The toilet is not connected yet! To check, I poured 2 liters of water into the tank. There are no leaks anywhere, except for the fact that water flows in a thin stream from the filling fittings (fitting). The conical gasket keeps the flow from the tube itself. Is it supposed to be like this or should the unconnected water tank be airtight?

29-11-2015: Dr. Lom

Judging by the description, you have a toilet with a bottom water supply, and in this case, there is nothing surprising in the outflow of water. Firstly, the diaphragm valve only works at the appropriate pressure, and secondly, this pressure will be provided by the water supply system.
It will be much more efficient to check the operation of the toilet with water connected.

02-06-2016: Gennady

Good evening! I have such a situation, after turning off the water, the valve stopped holding water, I washed everything, cleaned it, it still flows. What's the matter?

03-06-2016: Dr. Lom

Perhaps one of the filters was clogged, which led to a decrease in water pressure, or after assembly, not all parts were installed in the design position.

03-06-2016: Gennady

All the details are in place, I replaced the membrane, no effect. The pressure seems to be normal, but there is a suspicion that the filter is still clogged. I’m going to buy a new inlet valve. often?

03-06-2016: Dr. Lom

The filter, of course, will significantly reduce the likelihood of clogging of the fittings.

10-08-2016: Basil

the explanation is not accurate, when the float is raised, the hole is blocked, and no rod presses on the membrane, when the tiny hole is closed, the pressure behind the membrane rises and the membrane closes the hole (directly the valve) through which water is already supplied to the storage tank.

24-08-2016: Sergey

the inlet valve of the Dolomite company - is it possible to replace it with a valve of another company, since the native did not get it?

24-08-2016: Dr. Lom

In principle, fittings from any manufacturer can be installed, the main thing is that the diameter matches and there is enough space in the tank.

11-09-2016: Andrey

Today I spent half a day with the toilet, dismantled and cleaned the fittings. Collected, and the inlet valve does not overlap when filling. I came across your article on the Internet, read it, everything turned out to be simple - when cleaning, I lost the sealing gum in the "yoke". I cut out a new one from the old gasket - everything works! Thanks a lot!

16-09-2016: Irina

Hello, dear Doctor Lom!
Thanks for the detailed description! Guided by him, several times it was possible to bring the intake membrane into working condition. Unfortunately, this time it just physically crumbles. Question: in your video, which company's intake membrane is shown? Do you know what other companies use exactly the same membrane? I have a hybner and it's impossible to find an original membrane or a whole intake. And it looks exactly the same as yours.
Thank you.

16-09-2016: Dr. Lom

The fact is that I filmed a video about 5 years ago and now I won’t say what kind of fittings are shown there. One seems to be from a French toilet, the second from the nearest construction market.

16-09-2016: Irina

In your video, the membrane of interest is visible from about 0:48 to 1:08.

16-09-2016: Dr. Lom

But no, I seem to be mistaken, it was fittings for the Polish Cersanit toilet, but now I don’t remember the model for sure.

20-09-2016: Valentine

Hello, at night the water pressure drops due to which the water in the toilet (Cersanit) starts to flow, although during the day everything is fine with normal pressure. Please tell me a complete description of how to change diaphragm valves with a diaphragm valve to valves with a stem valve.

20-09-2016: Dr. Lom

In principle, it is not difficult to change, it is much more difficult to buy high-quality fittings with a stem valve. See the article "How to disassemble a compact toilet".

22-09-2016: Inga,

Good afternoon, please tell me what is the solution to the following problem - water from the tank is drained into the toilet with a funnel along the walls of the bowl, forming a weak whirlpool. Rinse quality is non-existent. The tank fills well and quickly.

23-09-2016: Dr. Lom

Perhaps this is the design of your toilet bowl or there are defects in this design, so without replacing the bowl the problem cannot be solved. However, you can raise the tank as much as possible to improve the quality of the flush, as was done before.

The whistle of the filling fittings with a lower connection tank: as a rule, when disassembling all the parts in perfect order, but the whistling does not disappear, the following helped me: the filling fittings were completely disassembled, cleaned and reassembled to identify the "whistling" part, I decided not to put it back in place, but turned off the nozzle at the shower and connected it to the hose (in most cases, the thread is identical) turned on cold water and realized that the whistle was emitted by a silicone gasket with a stem after long dances with a tambourine, nothing helped, it continued to whistle, then I turned on hot water (almost boiling water) and left it for 15 minutes in the bathroom, after which I immediately switched to a cold one (contrast shower), the whistle disappeared and after installation in place did not appear, I have already been watching for 3 days the flight is normal :)

01-10-2016: Novel

Good evening! For the first time I encountered the replacement of the mechanism in the barrel, the whole thing! It seems that everything was set as in the instructions, but trouble happened ... in general, when water is supplied, it does not stop. As it turned out, the float does not fall and does not rise on its own, from water pressure, thereby not fixing the closing / opening of the water supply! Could you help me with something? The mechanism bought SA 2000, water supply from below. Feeling like something is holding it

01-10-2016: Dr. Lom

It's hard to tell from your description what exactly caused the problem. As a rule, the float is the most reliable part of the valve design, but it may have warped, or it is a factory defect. Try to raise and lower the float with your hands, it should move freely within the prescribed limits.

03-10-2016: Maksim

Good afternoon Tell me, please, with this case: I reinstalled the barrel (there were problems with water retention by the outlet valve, removed the tank and valve, cleaned the outlet, put everything back in place) the flush after that changed began to twist (like a tornado) and is now washed off 3-4 times . What could change after installing the tank?

04-10-2016: Dr. Lom

You may have a problem with the exhaust valve adjustment. Try to lift it higher.

07-12-2016: Sergey

Hello, what should I do if there is damage to the membrane, can it be repaired or made by myself?

07-12-2016: Dr. Lom

As a rule, the membrane cannot be repaired, only replaced, but it is quite difficult to find a repair kit for a certain type of inlet fitting. It's easier and faster to buy new fittings. It is also unlikely that a membrane can be made at home, it is not just a rubber gasket in an armature with a stem valve, which can simply be cut out of an old chamber.

13-12-2016: Eugene

Good afternoon, Doctor Lom! I have an IDO toilet. After disassembling the cleaning of the inlet valve, the water pressure ceased to stop. Prompt, please, with what it can be connected? Dismantled and reassembled several times - it is impossible to restore working capacity. Before the first disassembly, everything worked well.

14-12-2016: Ivan

Put a check valve in front of the hose and EVERYTHING, but it works expensively.

14-12-2016: Dr. Lom

It's hard to pinpoint a possible cause from your description. It seems that you simply forgot to put the membrane back in place or installed it incorrectly or it failed. However, other reasons are possible, for example, loose assembly, etc.

17-12-2016: Alexei

Hello! I have the following problem! I have a similar inlet fitting and everything works properly and does not let anything through anywhere, BUT after draining the water, the water through the inlet valve begins to draw weakly and reluctantly, with an empty tank and after 5 - 7 seconds it shoots up and gains briskly and correct! I dismantled all the fittings, all the valves - I cleaned everything and washed it from plaque, but unfortunately the situation has not changed! Where did I not check? Thanks for the answer...?

17-12-2016: Dr. Lom

Perhaps this is just a factory defect in the fittings and it is easier to change it than to look for the defect itself.

22-12-2016: Irina

Good afternoon After installing a new toilet bowl, when the tank is filled with water, vibration and noise of the tank occur, and quite significant. Vibration does not occur with every set of water, but 1-2 times a day, mainly in the evenings. The tank is equipped with a set of filling fittings with a lower water supply and draining single-level fittings SA2000/S Czech Republic. Please tell me what it could be and how to deal with this phenomenon?

22-12-2016: Dr. Lom

As a rule, in the evenings, the pressure in the cold water system decreases slightly. Accordingly, the flow rate decreases when the tank is filled. And that's why in your case there is a resonance of oscillations - vibration, it's hard for me to judge. Perhaps a foreign object has entered the system, creating a local obstacle to the movement of the flow, or such a local obstacle is the design of the inlet fittings.
Simply put, you need to either ensure constant pressure in the water supply system, or flush the system, or change the fittings.

06-11-2017: Dr. Lom

Thank you too, Eugene. And for the positive feedback and for the ten. It is immediately clear that a good person came to visit. And as for the rod fittings, in principle, you think everything is correct.

However, miracles do happen. Recently I helped one good person (it was a woman, and I have had a weakness for women since childhood). So she has had fittings with a membrane valve in her toilet for 17 years. When I took off the lid, I thought 300 years had passed since the toilet was connected, everything was covered in solid stalactites and stalagmites. We have chalk mountains in Lighthouses, so calcium (or something else, I'm not strong in chemistry) in the water is unmeasured. But nothing, cleaned off the growths, pulled the float and everything works fine again.

So it goes...

16-11-2017: Kirill

Kapets ... The drawings are not at all visual. The explanations are absolutely muddy, confused and incomprehensible .. I have an inlet valve - like the second one in the video. Your drawings correspond at best remotely. I do not see a moving horizontal rod. I can’t understand why overflow occurs (after cleaning the valve). I can't identify which holes on MY valve. I see the membrane. There are no micro-holes. Night. Everything is broken. Reading and understanding is extremely difficult.

17-11-2017: Dr. Lom

I sincerely sympathize with you, Cyril. I think that on the website of the manufacturer of YOUR fittings you will find more clear and understandable information. In the meantime, turn off the water supply and go to bed peacefully. And if anything, you can drain the water from the bucket.

08-08-2018: Michael

Hello. I have this problem: periodically (about 1 time out of 10) the outlet does not close after draining. Fittings GEBERIT. Can it be adjusted somehow?

08-08-2018: Dr. Lom

It's hard for me to judge from here. Try calling a plumber.

20-10-2018: IN

Thanks a lot! I bought an Alcaplast inlet valve, and it pours water once, and after the float comes up once, it no longer works after that. It turned out - a grain of sand is microscopic in hole 6 - I haven’t seen it in your picture yet and I couldn’t think that there is a tiny hole there and all the work of this plastic garbage depends on it. Cleaned it up and it works. Looks like the next grain of sand.

11-07-2019: Igor

I suffered for a long time and eventually thought of sticking adhesive tape around the piston (in the figure - 4). Years later, the piston did not fit tightly and water began to seep around the edges. Now everything works perfectly.

11-07-2019: Dr. Lom

Igor, thanks for the good advice. I think some of the readers will definitely find it useful.

12-07-2019: Igor

At the expense of ideality is still in a hurry. In a few hours, a liter was typed. This did not affect the water meter in any way, but I still decided to buy a new mechanism. At first I thought to buy only a piston with a membrane and a rubber band, but these spare parts cost 50 UAH, and a new set cost 90 UAH. So if the mechanism is 5 years old and you don’t feel sorry for 90 UAH, it’s better to change it and don’t suffer. I mean the case when neither rearranging the gum helps (there is another way to cut it in half and turn the halves over), nor cleaning everything and everything. If the membrane wears out and the plastic is erased, nothing will help.