Is it possible to sheathe a house with siding. Sheathing a wooden house with siding - calculation of materials and installation technology

- excellent material for facing the house. At its affordable cost, it has many positive operational and technical characteristics.

You are offered detailed instructions for self-installation of siding. The guide is universal. Following its provisions, you will be able to complete any finish that provides for installation on a crate: fiber cement, wood, metal, vinyl, etc.

We mount the crate

Siding is best attached to a pre-mounted crate. We work in the following order.

The first stage - choose the material

The frame can be assembled from a wooden beam or a metal profile. Metal products are stronger and more durable. In addition, the metal crate is much easier to attach to an uneven base.

Learn and also familiarize yourself with the calculation algorithm with an emphasis on possible nuances.

Installation of profiles is carried out with a half-meter step. Hangers are used for wall mounting. This technique will allow leveling surface differences and fixing the frame elements in level.

Wooden crate is cheaper. When choosing this option, pay attention to the condition of the wood. It is prohibited to:

• the material was exfoliated;
• was deformed;
• had bluish spots and traces of rot, etc.

The elements of the wooden crate must be impregnated with flame retardant and antiseptic. If the house is built of wooden elements, the walls should also be treated with the listed preparations.

The second stage - preparing the base

The crate is easiest to attach to a flat base. First of all, we remove any details that may interfere. These are all kinds of tiles, bars, platbands, gutters, etc.

The third stage - set the guides

Siding is best mounted horizontally. In this case, we fix the bars or profiles of the crate vertically.

To attach the guides to wooden walls, we use nails or self-tapping screws. If the house is built of concrete blocks or bricks, we fix it with dowels, having previously drilled holes for them in the wall of the house.

We level each rail.

Important! If you plan to do outdoor work, it is best to fix the siding crate after all insulation work has been completed. In this case, there will be two crates: for insulating materials and for cladding. In this case, the rails of the two frames should be placed parallel to each other.

You can, of course, try to lay insulating layers after attaching the siding sheathing, but this is not very convenient.

We mount J-profiles

The starting rails must be perfectly fixed, as the quality of the entire lining depends on the correctness of their installation.

First step. We take the level and find the lowest point on the crate. We step back from it up 50 mm and put a mark. To do this, we screw a self-tapping screw into the rail a little.

Second step. We consistently move around the building and continue to put marks with self-tapping screws to fix the starting profiles. We also screw self-tapping screws in the corners of the house.

Third step. We stretch the rope between the corner marks.

Fourth step. We mark on the rails the boundaries of the installation of corner profiles. We take the profile itself, apply it to the corner of the frame structure and put marks along the edges with a pencil.

Important! We leave a 1-centimeter gap between the profiles to compensate for temperature deformations.

We leave a gap between the starting guides and the nail strips.

In order to avoid a 6 mm setback, you can cut off parts of the nail strips so that they do not rest against the J-profile during temperature changes.

Important! Starting profiles must be mounted strictly horizontally! Correct deviations for as long as necessary.

If you install guides with deviations from the level, the siding will also warp. It will be extremely difficult to fix this in the future.

Prices for fasteners for a profile

Profile mounts

We mount external corner profiles

First step. We mark spotlights. We need to see where the edges of these elements will be in the future.

Second step. Attach the guide to the corner of the frame. We do this with a 3 mm gap to the soffit or roof. We fix the profile with self-tapping screws.

The lower border of the element is placed 0.6 cm below the edge of the starting profile.

Third step. We check the verticality of the installation. In the absence of deviations, we fix the bottom, and after that - the rest of the places. Experts do not advise placing fasteners in corner elements too often.

If the house is higher than 300 cm, the profiles will need to be superimposed one on top of the other. To do this, cut the top profile. As a result, a 9 mm gap should remain between the planks of the joined elements. When laying the elements, we maintain an overlap of 2.5 cm.

Important! We join the profiles at the same level on each side of the house.

If the plinth has a protruding structure, we shorten the profile so that a 6 mm gap remains between it and the plinth.

Helpful advice! Instead of a corner profile, it is allowed to install 2 J-elements (starting). This way you can save money. But this solution also has its drawback - the corner will not be as tight as when using a special corner profile. Having decided to use this method, pre-glue the wall at a similar angle with a strip of rolled waterproofing material.

We mount internal corner profiles

The order of installation of these elements does not have significant differences from the technology for arranging external corners - we leave an indent of 3 mm between the profile and the soffit, while lowering the lower end of the profile below the J-bar by 0.6 cm.

If there is a protruding plinth or other element from the bottom that stands out from the general level, then we also leave a 6 mm indent between it and the profile - it is impossible for the profile of the inner corner to rest against it.

There are 3 methods for arranging internal corners, see the picture.

If the wall height is more than 300 cm, we perform profile splicing. The technology is the same as for the arrangement of external corners.

We leave a 9 mm indent between the planks, carefully cutting off excess material. The overlap of the upper element on the lower one is 2.5 cm. We install the fasteners with a 4-centimeter step, placing them strictly in the center of the holes intended for this. The exception is the highest point. Here the fasteners must be installed at the top of the hole.

We mount the frames of the openings

For most inexperienced craftsmen, difficulties arise precisely at the stage of framing and doorways. The order of work will vary depending on how the openings are arranged in relation to the plane of the wall.

Openings in the same plane with the facade

In this case, we do the following.

First step. We perform waterproofing of openings.

Second step. We fasten platbands or J-profiles to the openings. We equip each opening using 4 platbands: a pair of vertical and a pair of horizontal.

Third step. We connect profiles.

To make the connection of platbands as accurate as possible, we do this:

The platband at the bottom is connected in exactly the same way, only the bridges will need to be cut and bent on the side elements for their further lining on the profile below.

Apertures recessed into the facade

When installing near-window profiles, we work in compliance with the same recommendations as when installing platbands, i.e. we create cuts on the profile corresponding to the depth of the opening, and then bend the bridges and insert them into the finishing elements.

Do not be too lazy to understand the principles of bending such bridges. We make them so that they cover the junction of the cladding elements. As a result, moisture will not be able to penetrate inside.

Installing the first panel

We start facing with the least noticeable wall of the building. So we can practice and work out all sorts of inaccuracies.

First step. We insert the first cladding panel into the corner profile and into the locking joint of the starting strip.

Important! We leave a 6 mm temperature gap between the first cladding element and the lower part of the corner profile lock.

Second step. We attach the panel to the crate.

It is important to observe the dimensions of technological indents. If the lining is carried out in warm weather, we maintain a 6 mm indent, if in cold weather, we increase the gap to 9 mm. When installing trim panels, the indents can be reduced.

We build up panels

We build up the cladding elements with an overlap or with the help of an H-profile.

When fixing panels with an overlap, it is necessary to shorten the locks of the cladding panels and the fixing frames first, so that as a result the overlap has a length of 2.5 cm.

The installation of the H-profile is carried out similarly to the corner elements - at the top we retreat 0.3 cm from the soffit, from the bottom we lower it by 0.6 cm in relation to the starting profile.

Important! We leave a 6 mm indent between the H-profile and any obstacles on the houses.

Installing the rest of the siding

We continue to clad the house with siding. The technology of work is similar to the order of fastening the first panel.

Important! Every 2-3 rows, we check the horizontalness of the cladding using a level.

Having reached the opening, we remove the unnecessary piece of the panel falling on the opening.

We provide reliable fastening of panels with the help of "hooks". For this we need a punch.

We mount an additional finishing profile at the bottom of the opening. It will allow you to level the lining on the plane.

Mounting under the roof

We fix the J-profile under the roof structure.

We work in the following order.

First step. We measure the distance between the lower part of the lock of the finishing element and the lock of the penultimate facing panel.

Second step. Subtract from the measurement obtained 1-2 mm indent.

Third step. We mark the whole panel, cut off its upper part with a locking connection.

Fourth step. We create "hooks" at the top of the element with a 20 cm step. To do this, we make cuts and bend them to the front side.

Fifth step. We insert the trimmed element into the penultimate siding panel. With a slight upward movement, we snap the inserted element into the locking connection of the finishing profile.

We mount the pediment

We sheathe the pediment around the perimeter. All fasteners, except for the top, are installed in the center of the holes. The upper fastener is installed at the top of the hole. Sheathing can be done both with profiles for arranging internal corners, and with a starting profile.

The installation procedure is similar to the fastening of wall panels. We cut the edges of the elements and connect them with the locks of the receiving profiles. Keep in mind the 6mm setback when mounting in warm weather and 9mm when working in winter.

We fasten the last element of the pediment sheathing directly through the panel material - this can only be done here.

Cladding completed.

Find out how, and also look at the calculations and a step-by-step guide, from our new article.

In order for the paneling of the house to be as successful as possible, you need to know certain subtleties of performing such work. There is a list of general recommendations for any siding, as well as individual tips for panels made from a specific material.

Now you can do it yourself at the highest level.

Name (model)	Advantages	Length x width x thickness, mm	Quantity in a package, pcs
Vinyl Siding Kanada Plus	1. Dark coloring is done using the "Cool Color" method (heat absorption), which involves the use of masterbatches. 2. Excellent appearance remains unchanged even when exposed to high and low temperatures, the range of which ranges from -50°C to +60°C. 3. Maintains shock resistance even if the ambient temperature drops to -20-60°C. 4. Not subject to microbiological corrosion (fungi, mold).	3660 x 230 x 1.1	20
Acrylic Siding "Kanada Plus"	Among other useful qualities of Kanada Plus acrylic siding, it is worth highlighting: Increased resistance to direct ultraviolet rays; Excellent tolerance to acidic and alkaline solutions, as well as to various fats; Good washing tolerance with chemical detergents; High degree of deformation resistance (perfectly tolerates temperatures up to 75 ° -80 ° C).	3660 x 230 x 1.1	20
Alta Siding - Vinyl Siding	"Alta-siding" is: one of the safest finishing materials on the Russian market; frost resistance and the ability to maintain strength even at very low temperatures (from -20 to -60 ° C); resistance to significant temperature changes and environmental influences; durability: the service life of Alta-siding is up to 30 years; resistance to aggressive substances (detergents can be used to clean the siding); non-susceptibility to infection by moldy fungi.	3660 x 230 x 1.1	20
Facade metal siding INSI	Siding "INSI" is made of galvanized steel coated with a layer of polymer composition, which means that it inherits all the advantages of this material: resistance to temperature extremes (-50°С - +80°С) and mechanical damage; long service life with preservation of original properties (about 50 years); environmental friendliness; incombustibility; possibility of mounting both horizontally and vertically; protection of the building from overheating (in the ventilated facade system); and when choosing one of two new colors (alder or rosewood) - a complete imitation of the appearance.	Length up to 6000, width up to 200, thickness 0.5	-

Successful work!

Siding prices

Video - Do-it-yourself siding installation

Siding is one of the types of building materials for wall cladding. With it, you can completely change the appearance of a private house at a low cost, if the house is still solid, but already quite old. In addition, finishing, sheathing with siding is used outside.

Laid on top of the insulation, it not only hides it, but also improves the entire exterior of the house. It is for this reason that many home owners decide to make such changes to the appearance of their home. And all the work will help to do the right step-by-step instructions for self-plating the house with siding.

A bit of history

This type of sheathing was invented by our Pomors. For hunting, strong, light ships were needed. It was in shipbuilding that this type of ship plating was used. Actually, the very word siding (Siding) is translated as tes. Northern peoples have adopted this technology to insulate their homes by sheathing their homes with battens. In addition to insulation, this technology made it possible to speed up the construction of houses on the northern coast, and was very popular with Russian pioneers.

Today, siding is made from modern building materials:

• Vinyl;
• metal;
• Cement (fiber cement siding);
• tree.

Various types of siding allow you to completely change the appearance of a private house without significant financial costs.

Preparing for sheathing

Preparatory work for cladding a house with siding is not very difficult. The entire building will need to be carefully inspected and several measurements taken. If there are visible influxes of masonry mortar, they just need to be knocked down. Protruding nails or drive back or remove altogether. Small protrusions, more than 6 mm high, should also be eliminated if possible.

Inspection

When inspecting the house, it is also necessary to identify the unevenness of the walls, plinth, corners, window openings and other architectural elements - in general, wherever cladding work is planned with siding. Such measurements are best done using a long standard metal rail, cord and tape measure. Deviation from the plane is permissible no more than 12 mm. In local places - no more than 6 mm.

Simply put, if the entire wall is not rectangular, but diamond-shaped, then the difference in diagonals should be no more than 12 mm. The same option, but for a window or door - 6 mm.

The general unevenness of the entire wall (pediment, cornice, plinth) should not exceed 12 mm.
The building can eventually sink to one side and tilt. The slope of the wall or the entire building is checked with a plumb line. Allowed deviation from the vertical is not more than 25 mm. If the slope of the entire building is more than allowed, then it is already in a pre-emergency state. If it is not eliminated, then further siding work is simply meaningless.

Preparatory work

After checking the geometry of the building, it is required to carry out a set of preparatory work. The platbands, drains, gratings, etc. are removed. If cracks are found in the walls, near window and door openings, seal them either with mounting foam or simply with cement mortar. If you find: cracked plaster, peeling paint, areas covered with mold - thoroughly clean such areas. Treat wooden walls with any antiseptic.

Tools and materials

Before starting work on facing the house with siding, make sure that you have a complete set of available tools:

• Electric screwdriver and screwdriver;
• Hammer;
• Roulettes (with laser it is easier and more convenient to work);
• Building level;
• Stairs.

How to cut extensions

When facing the building, part of the finishing panels is used entirely. But in some places you will have to make additions from the same material. Depending on what material will be used for cladding, siding, a tool for cutting panels is also selected.

For vinyl

• Electric jigsaw with a fine-toothed blade;
• Bulgarian;
• Sharp knife-cutter;
• Universal;
• Hacksaw for metal;
• Shoe knife.

metal siding

• hacksaw for metal;
• metal scissors;
• circular electric saw with teeth from Pobedit.

Advice! The use of an angle grinder (grinder) is accompanied by heating of the metal siding at the place of the cut, with damage to the protective top layer.

Material

If you want to do all the cladding work yourself, in order to purchase all the necessary material, you can simply contact a large hardware store. It is enough for the seller to simply describe in detail what area of ​​the walls, the number of windows and doors, etc., and he will calculate and select the necessary set of material for work.

And in order to control the quality of the goods, you need to know what signs the material for cladding the house with siding should correspond to:

1. The same thickness throughout the panel.
2. Mandatory presence of special markings on the inside of the panel. Such marking carries all the necessary information on the material: color, batch number, release date. If there was not enough material for sheathing during the work, you can always buy it in addition, focusing on this marking.
3. High-quality panels have an anti-hurricane lock. It is made in the form of a bend on top of the panel and is located above the holes for fasteners.
4. A sure sign that a company takes care of its image is the presence of additional elements and accessories in a set with materials.
5. All products must be provided with certificates and warranties. The minimum warranty period for coverage should be 50 years.
6. Responsible sellers will definitely attach instructions for installing siding to the purchased product.

Lathing installation

First, markup is done. Straight lines are drawn on the walls of the house, so that a closed contour is obtained. To make the line horizontal, a horizontal level helps. At the corners of the house from the horizontal line, it is necessary to make measurements with a tape measure to determine the minimum distance to the base. When the minimum distance is set at this level, the string for the contour is pulled. The starting bar will be mounted on it.

The next stage is the installation of elements of vertical metal guides from the mounting horizon, starting from the corners. The distance between the vertical slats is 35-45 cm. Additional guides are made near windows and doors. The main condition is that they should not intersect anywhere.

This is necessary in order to constantly circulate air under the siding, preventing the appearance of mold.
For walls made of brick and concrete, the guides are made of a special profile. For log walls, slats with a section of 60x40 mm, treated with an antiseptic solution, are used.

Waterproofing and insulation

If the installation of the crate is carried out on wooden and aerated concrete walls, the installation of waterproofing is mandatory.

Insulation of the walls with a mineral plate is carried out at the request of the owner of the house, but a moisture-windproof membrane must be installed in any case. If there is no insulation, the film is attached to the wall of the house. If there is a layer of insulation, a waterproofing layer is attached on top of it. Since a ventilation gap between the insulation panels and the siding is required, a crate is built over the insulation layer.

Guides

Now that the insulation is in place and the batten is ready, it's time to install siding accessories such as:

• external and internal elements at the corners of the structure;
• slats for window and door openings;
• ebbs on the basement of the building and windows.

The basement drainage is fixed at the intended level under the lower siding bar so that the upper edge runs along the line. Corner elements are fixed rigidly on self-tapping screws at the very top of the extreme hole. The screws following it are twisted into the middle of the slot in 50 cm increments.

Advice! If the profile is not enough, it can be increased by another, overlapping with the previous one with an overlap of five centimeters.

Framing the window begins with the installation of the ebb. It protrudes beyond the window opening by 8-10 cm on both sides. Side window trims are installed on this ledge. From below, the ebb is held by a j-profile. After installing the siding, window decoration is completed by installing platbands.

The process of edging a doorway is almost the same as a window.

Panel installation

The process of installing siding panels is somewhat similar to the LEGO constructor. Each element is connected to the other in turn. The first row from the bottom is attached to the first (starting) bar with light pressure until a click appears from the bottom. From above, through the slots, they are fastened with self-tapping screws in the center, so that the siding moves into them without visible effort. Fastening is carried out from the center to the edges of the building, in increments of 40 cm.

All subsequent panels are attached in the same way, rising from the foundation to the roof. The topmost row ends with a finishing bar.

Basic installation rules

1. It is imperative to avoid rigid fastening of siding panels. It should be remembered that the material itself has the property of shrinking in the cold and expanding in the summer. Therefore, the screw is screwed into the center of the hole so that there is a gap of 1 mm between the screw head and the plate.
2. Maintain a gap of 10 mm between the slats and guides. This will protect the siding from damage as it expands in hot weather.
3. Facing a house with siding can be done in any weather, but it should be taken into account that in frost the material becomes brittle and therefore requires more careful handling during installation.

Watch the video:

I have the following problem. The house is of an old construction, and it is simply necessary to insulate the corner room, in winter it is cold, damp and there is mold on the walls. There is not enough money to cover the whole house, so we decided to start from this place. This is an extension, and not very well made. Deviation from the plane, about 20 mm. So far, we have decided that the horizontal lining will show all the flaws, and the vertical one will hide it, but we doubt it.

The question arose before winter to sheathe the house with siding. Since I am not a builder myself, I encountered this for the first time. I read a bunch of different tips, sites that tell what and how to do. But so that someone specifically and put everything on the shelves, I did not find it. I came across this article. I read and understood everything very carefully. What, how to do it and what is needed. As a result, I bought beige metal siding and got to work. Since it was a vacation, everything was done quickly with a friend. It’s good that the house is recently built, so all the corners and walls are even. There were practically no difficulties. The end result is a happy wife and a beautiful home. Thanks for the article, it was very helpful.

Despite the fact that siding has appeared on the construction market relatively recently, it has already managed to gain popularity. This material does not require special care, the minimum life of the panels is about 15 years, and you can do the siding with your own hands.

The low weight also speaks in favor of this material, the panel is held only by a few screws. And thanks to the many color options, you can choose the right option for any home. No less important is the fact that siding does not emit toxins during operation, so it is absolutely safe for humans.

Tools and materials for house siding

To perform the preparatory work you will need:

• saw;
• screwdriver;
• plumb;
• building level;
• square;
• ladder;
• metal profiles or wooden slats;
• J-profiles for edging doors and windows;

• external and internal corners;

• scissors for metal (needed if a metal profile is used);
• grinder with a circle for working on metal (used for cutting siding panels in the cold season).

Preparation for installation of siding to the facade

The scope of work largely depends on whether it is planned to use insulation during installation, as well as on the type of insulation.

As elements of the crate, you can use either wide wooden slats or a metal profile. If the wall of the house is concrete or brick, then only a galvanized metal profile can be used for the crate.

To create a crate, you can use a CD-profile, which is used when installing drywall.

For wooden houses and walls made of aerated concrete, a waterproofing device is required. Most often, a moisture-windproof film is used as a waterproofing layer, "breathing" in only one direction.

If a layer of insulation is not provided, then this film is attached to the wall of the house, a crate is placed on top of it and then the siding is mounted. This provides a gap between the waterproofing film and the siding, which makes it impossible for mold to form.

In the case of additional insulation of the house, the film is already placed on top of the insulation. Then a crate is mounted on top of it and siding is attached to it.

If soft insulation is used (for example, mineral wool), then longitudinal strips are first attached to the wall, dividing the wall space into separate sections in which the insulation is placed. Thanks to this, it does not deform over time due to its own weight. In the future, for fastening the siding, the crate is already built on top of the insulation.

How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands

When sheathing a house with siding with your own hands, you need to strive to ensure that:

• the wall was level;
• seams were invisible. With proper installation of siding panels, the joints are absolutely invisible;
• there was a ventilation gap between the wall and the siding panel. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate between the wall surface and the sheathing, the wall will begin to rot.

You can avoid mistakes and achieve the ideal arrangement of siding panels by cladding in the following sequence:

1. Wall marking. It depends on the accuracy of the markup whether the siding panels will be located horizontally. At the roof or where the siding will end. Then, from this line, the distance to the base is measured in several places. This is done in order to determine at what level the starting bar will be located. The smallest of the distances obtained is selected, at this level a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the house - the level of the starting bar.

For greater accuracy, measurements can be taken near the corners and in the center of each wall.

1. Installation of guide elements. Before proceeding with the installation of siding panels, a drainage system is installed on the basement. Compared to the starter bar, the dewatering is much stiffer, so it is much easier to install it evenly. The drainage system is installed along the horizontal line previously drawn around the perimeter of the house.

Also, before installing the siding panels, you need to install J-bars or window panels around the perimeter of windows and doorways. When edging doors, J-profiles can be joined end-to-end, washed down before that at an angle of 45 °, or overlapped. When edging with an overlap, the top bar is above the side bars.

When installing all vertical elements, it is necessary not to bring them 5 - 7 mm to the plinth and cornice. If this rule is neglected, then as a result of temperature deformation, the planks can bend in the warm season.

After that, the start and finish strips are mounted.

1. Installation of siding panels. Do-it-yourself siding should be started from the bottom, moving up. When facing the house, each next panel is inserted into the underlying one until the lock clicks, in the upper part it is fastened with self-tapping screws.

In this case, the self-tapping screws must be screwed in the center of the oblong holes in the panel, avoiding too much pressure on the panel. There should be a gap of about 1 mm between the screw head and the siding surface.

When sheathing a house with siding with your own hands, you need to remember that this material is highly susceptible to temperature deformations (they can reach 1%). That is why the slots for self-tapping screws have an oblong shape, thanks to which the panel can move freely during heating / cooling.

• it is strictly forbidden to additionally attach the panel to the crate. This will deprive her of the ability to compensate for temperature deformation. As a result, swelling of the panels is possible;
• panels must be connected without tension;
• when working in winter, it is better to use a grinder to cut panels, the material becomes very fragile;

In general, the installation of siding panels itself is a fairly simple procedure. Much more attention, time and labor will be needed at the preparatory stage - the end result will depend on how evenly the guide elements are fixed. It will also take a lot of time to cut siding panels for a specific house.

Video - Wall insulation for siding with Rockwool

Walls and corners, especially those of a log building, need maintenance. They must be insulated from the outside. Consider how to sheathe a house with do-it-yourself siding in combination with insulation measures. Let's say a few words about the features of finishing a garage or other outbuildings.

What was siding for?

This building material is in great demand. He is unpretentious in maintenance, he is not afraid of the vagaries of the weather, and the plates themselves are lightweight and easy to install. So it is convenient to decorate a barn or garage. But why are they sheathed at home, schools and kindergartens? This is because the rise in the price of electricity has affected everyone, and it is becoming more and more difficult to pay kilometer bills.

What to do? Naturally, it is necessary to insulate houses and it is better to do it outside, especially if there is not too much living space anyway. Almost all heaters are afraid of exposure to sunlight, excessive moisture and other natural phenomena, and some sheathing materials like natural wood get wet from rain.

Siding panels do not have these disadvantages. They will perfectly protect the walls and the insulation attached to them from the negative effects of the weather. Vinyl, metal and other types of siding are sheathed not only at home with and without insulation, but also garages, warehouses, sheds and other utility rooms, because their walls also need protection from the vagaries of the weather. Sometimes only the facade of the building is decorated, because such material also copes with this function remarkably well.

We sheathe a barn or garage - why metal?

Detailed instructions on how to work with the most common type - vinyl siding, we will consider a little lower. Moreover, for the walls and facade of the house you need a lot of panels, it will be somewhat cheaper than other materials. But the garage or barn can be sheathed with metal. If possible, then it is better to purchase material with a polymer coating. It will be more wear-resistant, and its service life reaches 50 years. Fire resistance also belongs to the indisputable advantages, which is so important, especially if it is necessary to finish the walls of a garage or a warehouse in which combustible substances are stored. In addition, due to their excellent strength, such panels are in demand when sheathing shops, gas stations and even factories with factories.

After making the necessary calculations and purchasing the material you like with accessories, you can proceed with the installation work. We remove all the elements from the walls of the garage so that they are as free as possible. Then we clean them of dirt and, if necessary, primer. Next, we assemble the frame from the profiles, keeping the distance between the cells at least 60 cm and not more than 1 m. Do not forget to leave a technological gap for ventilation, 5-10 cm is enough.

Since this type of siding has a long service life, the frame should be made only from galvanized profiles.. Do not use wooden slats for it, they will rot much earlier than the sheathing material becomes unusable. And if, for example, you have a wooden shed (often these utility rooms are made of timber), then such a crate will also allow you to level the surface.

You need to work with gloves, otherwise you can get hurt on the sharp edges of the planks, and you should cut the panels with safety glasses. Metal strips are assembled in the same way as plastic ones, from the bottom up. Below is the starting, and the final - finishing bar, and during their installation, a gap of 5 mm should be maintained. To protect the interior of the facade from precipitation, you can stick a special sealant on the frame around the openings, and then press it with metal sheets. In all other respects, the process of sheathing a garage, warehouse or barn takes place according to the instructions described in the next paragraph.

How to work with panels?

To protect the walls, and especially the facades of stone and wooden houses with insulation, sheathing them with siding, you will have to spend a lot of time, as there will be a lot of calculations and fittings, because we decided to finish the housing with our own hands.

How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Calculations

Absolutely any construction work begins with preparation, because this is the key to the speed and quality of the result. Produced first. It is best to schematically draw the building and indicate all dimensions (walls, facade, window and door openings, etc.). Further, remembering the lessons of mathematics for grade 5, we perform elementary calculations. Openings are subtracted from the total area, but if there are few of them and they are small in size, then this action can be ignored. Then you will buy a little extra cladding material, and you will have the opportunity to replace damaged panels in the future.

Step 2: Material selection

Siding differs in color, material, size, there are many configurations and, of course, the main parameter is product quality. The vinyl version is in great demand for cladding the facade or private buildings around the entire perimeter. The planks of this hard plastic are very strong and hardy. It also has the added benefit of being durable and easy to maintain. Simply wash the cover and it will be like new. A huge range of colors and a variety of designs will allow you to choose the material for every taste. When choosing a product in a store, inspect all the elements. Defects are unacceptable, the panels must be of the same thickness over the entire area. The presence of a special lock against hurricanes and double-sided painting indicate good quality. Ask sales assistants to present a certificate for the goods.

Step 3: Tools and Accessories

Having bought a set of vinyl, wood or other siding with which you are going to sheathe the building yourself, you can start preparing the tool and it is better to select it depending on the type of house - whether you built it from timber or brick, did it with or without insulation. We need profiles, corners and accessories. If the latter did not come with the panels, then they should be purchased separately. Also prepare a building level, a corner, a hammer, a long tape measure and a pencil. It is convenient to cut the panels with an electric saw, but you can also use scissors for metal. Do not forget the perforator, without it the installation of the crate cannot be completed, especially when the house is not made of timber, but something harder. When choosing fasteners, make sure that they are not afraid of corrosion, because we are talking about outdoor work.

Step 4: Surface preparation

We dismantle all removable parts, these include drainpipes, visors, platbands, shutters and other elements that may interfere with work. There are especially a lot of them on the facade, so you can start from this part of the house. Having freed up the area as much as possible, we proceed to the walls. If they already have any protective coating, then it should also be removed. Next, we check the processed plane with a level. The difference should not be more than 15 mm, otherwise the unevenness will be noticeable even after facing.

If a wooden house (for example, from a bar) or a log shed is to be sheathed, then be sure to treat its walls with a primer that will prevent them from rotting. Reinforced concrete and stone surfaces are covered with special antiseptics, often a garage is made like this. If outside the window is rainy weather or high humidity, it is better to postpone work until later, since the surface to be treated must be absolutely dry.

In the autumn, store the panels in the house or in another warm room, as, being in the cold, they become excessively fragile, which will complicate installation.

Step 5: Installing the batten

You can attach protective material without a frame, but this will significantly worsen the quality of work, so it’s better not to be lazy and make a crate. Construction profiles are perfect for it, but the use of a wooden bar is allowed (profile about 50x50). Only there are a few reservations about such a crate. It is desirable that the length of the timber be greater than the height of the building. And if you still decide to give preference to natural wood, make sure that it is dry, otherwise the frame will lead over time, this will be most noticeable on the facade, where there are many joints and transitions.

We start installation from the left corner. Perpendicular to the carrier bar, we install each new lath of the crate in increments of about 35 cm. Be sure to tie all the openings with the carrier profile and leave room for communications and outdoor lighting. Profiles are mounted on special fasteners-suspensions. There should be at least 4 pieces per rail 3 m long. Under one suspension, we drill two holes directed towards each other, hammer plastic plugs into them and install fasteners, fixing it with self-tapping screws. Be sure to check the vertical and horizontal of the "skeleton", for this we need a level with a plumb line.

Foundation sheathing

Now we come to the most exciting issue - the fastening of the protective strips. The lower part of the house is sheathed with plinth panels, which are characterized by increased strength. Further, stepping back 10 mm from the basement siding, a starting strip is installed on the wall. It is mounted to vertical racks using self-tapping screws. Use the level and follow the horizontal, because the general view depends on how correctly this element is set. Do not forget about the corners, the panels can be launched on top of each other. If there are window openings, then the connecting profiles should be mounted in their center.

Step 8: Mounting the panels

Further, everything is quite simple. Planks are easily cut with a grinder, while it is desirable to use thin discs. Each row is inserted into the previous one from the bottom up. Constantly check the horizontal level with a level. The panels are fixed with special self-tapping screws with press washers. The fasteners are screwed in strictly in the middle of the perforation, while it is better to under-compress them a little (about 1 mm). Be sure to pay special attention to panel joints. Planks should not be displaced relative to each other.

Step 9: Door and Window Openings

Siding will serve as an excellent material for framing houses. If you want the buildings sheathed with these plastic panels to have an original appearance, which is especially true for the facade, you can experiment with the color scheme. For example, it is beautiful when the frame around the openings and the plinth panels differ in several shades from the main color. Sometimes the bottom is made dark, and the framing elements, on the contrary, are chosen white. Special J-shaped profiles are mounted around the openings, and the resulting frame is sheathed with near-window strips. The final is a special finishing strip.

The siding has the appearance of thin sheets, which are very convenient to assemble with the help of locks on the panels. There are several different types of these products. And each type has its own advantages and disadvantages. Before choosing a product, you should get acquainted with all the nuances that you can expect when facing a house.

The house, only in order to sheathe it with siding, so that it retains its appearance and lasts a long time. A big plus of facing slabs is its modernity, due to the rich selection of shades and various textures. The work can be done without resorting to specialists, which makes it possible to give the old building a presentable appearance and thereby hide structural errors.

The main function of siding is weather protection. Preserve the original appearance of the building for many decades and allows the walls to "breathe".

Advantages and disadvantages

Pros:

1. Ease of mounting. Plates come with locks with which sheets are attached. The upper edge of the sheet is fastened with self-tapping screws, there are ready-made holes for them. The mounting method can be different: on the frame (wooden or metal) or directly on the wall. The total construction time will take 2 days. You can install at any time of the year.
2. Low maintenance stove.
3. Universal Product, it is possible to make sheathing not only outside, but also inside the room.
4. Durability ( 50 years), depending on the species.
5. Plates have a special polymer layer due to which they have high stability.
6. Low prices for slabs ease of installation allows you to do the cladding of the house with your own hands.

Minuses:

1. Limited gamut colors.
2. Coatings, subject to mechanical stress (except for metal sheets).
3. Melt in a fire(vinyl boards).
4. fragile slabs in the cold (vinyl).
5. High price component parts.

We will look at an example when it is necessary to sheathe a house with siding of 34 square meters. m:

1. The fastening of one plate was estimated at 180 rubles, a total of 6120 rubles.
2. Vapor barrier (45 rubles / sq. M) - 1530 rubles.
3. Insulation in one layer (75 rubles / sq. M) - 2550 rubles.
4. Waterproofing (45 rubles) - 1530 rubles.
5. Crate for insulation (60 rubles) - 2040 rubles.
6. Frame for siding (75 rubles) - 2550 rubles.
7. External slopes 150 rub. For 1 linear meter, and for 11.2 - 1680 rubles.
8. Processing a wooden crate with an antiseptic - 672 rubles.
9. Frontal sorties 24 p. m. / 300 rubles - 7 200 rubles.
10. Window sills 28 running meters / 150 rubles - 420 rubles.

Hence the total amount of work - 26,292 rubles.

Kinds

Manufacturers delight us with a large selection of siding:

Copper

Aluminum

cement

Wood

Steel

Ceramic

basement

Calculation of the number and components

Calculation methods

We arm ourselves with the necessary tools when calculating the amount of siding:

• pen and paper;
• roulette;
• calculator;

Separately, we measure the width and length of each wall of the house and the gable. Calculate the area of ​​each wall by multiplying the length by the width.

The area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe triangular pediment is calculated by the formula: ½ the length of the cornice multiplied by the height of the roof. Next, add up all the areas. Separately, we calculate the area of ​​​​windows and doors. From the obtained first area subtract the resulting area of ​​windows and doors.

Now we need to think about waste. 10% of the material should be added to the sheathing of rectangular walls, 15% for trapezoidal walls, and 20% for those with various protrusions and recesses.

We take into account the waste in the calculations and divide all this by the usable area of ​​the 1st strip of the sheet. To avoid errors, we place the sheets in the drawing in the order in which they will be stacked.

Hence the total number of sheets \u003d H / S, where H is taken as the height of the house, and, S is the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bone sheet.

Now let's calculate the components:

1. You should find out the number of starting and finishing rails. To do this, we take measurements of the perimeter of the house (minus the width of the doors) and divide by the length of one guide (2 meters), we get their number. In the finishing details, the size of the doors is not calculated.
2. Let's say you need to dock a certain number of profiles, here it is worth considering the overlap (3-5 cm). This does not apply to finishing and starting parts.
3. Internal and external corners. We count the total number of corners and their length. We divide the resulting value by two (the length of one profile), we get their number of pieces.
4. We use J-profiles on window and door planes. This is the size of the vertical openings. Diagonal cuts go to the pediments.
5. H-profile is involved in connecting operations. We calculate the number of rails for which their length is not enough for a plane or for separating colors. We count them by the piece.
6. Window profiles. The perimeter of the recessed openings will be their size.
7. count based on the sum of all openings that need lining. It is better to calculate in pieces. If desired, the casing can be replaced with a J-profile.

Do-it-yourself siding technology at home:

1. Preparatory work.
2. Lathing installation.
3. Waterproofing and insulation.
4. Mounting guides.
5. Siding installation.

Detailed step by step instructions

Required materials and tools:

• metal scissors;
• saw or grinder;
• hammer and screwdriver;
• screwdriver and level;
• square and tape measure;
• ladder;
• siding;
• metal (wooden) profile;
• component parts;
• screws or nails;
• insulation;
• waterproof membrane;

Placing a self-tapping screw in the mounting plate

We carry out preparatory work, as a result of which we free the surface of the walls from protruding elements (lattices, door trims). We process all the cracks on it with mounting foam or cement mixture and clean it from dust and dirt. If the house is wooden, we treat it with an antiseptic, from foam concrete - with a primer with deep penetration.

Before mounting the crate, we determine its material (wood or metal). For concrete and brick walls, as well as for metal siding, we mount only galvanized profiles. We make markings on the wall for fastening the guide rails, which we fasten on opposite sides of the wall.

Between them we stretch the thread for the intermediate rails. We start fastening with U-shaped brackets in increments of 0.3-0.4 m. For a tighter fit, foam wedges can be placed. We add guides in places of additional load. For example, near the corners of doors, windows or street lights. We position the vertical slats so that they do not connect to anything, so as not to disturb the ventilation of the walls.

In the presence of wooden or aerated concrete structures, we construct waterproofing. You can take a waterproof membrane. If a heater is provided, we lay it on the membrane and only then fill the profile. Uninsulated walls should also have space between the siding and the waterproofing, again for ventilation.

Next, attach the guide elements. We install a drainage system on the base and corner parts. Fastening is done rigidly with self-tapping screws, starting from the upper hole, then we fasten the middle. If the length of the rail is not enough, we do the docking with H-profiles. We fix the starting bar 0.5 cm from the corner element.

We make a border around the windows with window slats or J-profiles. We upholster the doors with J-profiles, and saw down the corners at 45 degrees. Do not forget to make a gap of 0.6 cm from the plinth and cornice. This is done for the free movement of the material when it expands. We strengthen the finishing bar where we plan to finish (under the roof or top of the wall).

We start fastening the panels from left to right and from top to bottom from the corner. We fix the first plate on the starting rail, move it a little to the left until the lock clicks, which is located in the lower part, at the top we make fasteners with self-tapping screws.

We arrange them in increments of 0.4 m. We collect the subsequent rows according to the same scenario. We do not fix the panels rigidly, they must have free play. We finish the top row of plates with a finishing rail.

Mounting Features:

1. The finishing bar must be attached before the last row is mounted.
2. It is impossible to make rigid fastening of plates with any type of siding. This will cause deformation of the structure and disrupt the original appearance of the facade.
3. Laying of plates is carried out strictly from the bottom up, from the corner of the house to its middle.
4. Where, for example, pipes will pass, the hole in the plate is made 6 mm larger.

1. When laying the siding, the starting strip may not be fixed. Simply cut off the locks from the bottom panel and this will be the beginning of the plank. A strip without a lock is mounted at the end of the rows.
2. H-profile can not be used, and make an overlap mount.
3. Plate fasteners should be screwed into specially designated holes, and in no case in the stove. The gap should be left 1 mm between the cap and the plates, otherwise the plates will break under strong heating.
4. Sheathing the house in the heat, the material should be covered from sunlight.
5. Work at temperatures below minus 10 degrees, is also undesirable, since when cutting, the elements may crack. The grinder should be used with extreme caution.