How to properly lay brickwork plinth. How to lay out the base according to the level of the masonry rule and its features? Plinth size calculations

The basement is the lower fragment of the wall, which is arranged directly above the foundation. It encloses underground space. At the floor level of the first floor is the upper part of the basement. Its device will give the building considerable stability.

Basement device depending on the foundation

There are different types of plinths. If a strip foundation is constructed during construction, then in this case the basement is the upper part of this foundation, it is located above the level of the blind area or the ground.

If the foundation is columnar, then walls are built between the pillars, called a fence. They are designed to protect the underground space from dust, moisture and its insulation. On the inside of the pick-ups, sand and slag are used for additional insulation. The pick-up is made from the material that goes for the pillars of the foundation of the building. If it is made of brick, then it is lowered into the ground with a width of a whole or half a brick, stranded about 50 cm.

When all work is completed, the base is plastered with cement mortar.

In the case of building a building on columnar foundations, special attention must be paid, because this is a responsible and laborious process.

If the soil is heaving, then the plinth is made in the form of a reinforced concrete lintel between the pillars, especially if the outer walls are made of small blocks or bricks. It is reinforced in the lower part with metal rods with a cross section of 8-12 mm. A monolithic or prefabricated plinth should not rest directly on heaving soil. Between the supports in space it is necessary to leave a gap of 10-15 mm in height. It is then closed on the sides with boards that are treated with an antiseptic or asbestos-cement flat sheets, they help prevent soil pressure on the bottom of the lintel during frosts.

If the design is incorrectly defined and the plinth assembly is made, then deformation of it and other structures is possible. Therefore, it is not advised to make fences or plinths between the columnar supports of some light structures: porches, terraces, barns, verandas. The absence of a plinth in these structures is justified by economic and operational considerations. Good ventilation of an open basement helps to reduce air humidity there and extends the life of wooden structures.

To ventilate the subfloor in the basement, one hole with a section of 15x15 cm is made on all sides of the house. They must be located at least 150 mm from the ground level. Before frost, these holes must be laid with bricks and covered with clay.

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Three types of plinth

There are certain types of plinths, knowledge of the structure of which determines how to properly lay them:

• protruding, the thickness of its walls is greater than that of the house. Such a plinth can be laid out when the building has thin outer walls. At the same time, care must be taken to protect against precipitation in the form of special metal visors covering the ledge;
• the walls and the residential building have the same thickness and are located on the same level;
• sinking, with wall thickness much less than that of the building. From a brick, this type of construction is advised to be made, if necessary, in additional protection from upper sedimentary waters. These devices are mainly built where the level of annual precipitation is high.

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Solid concrete plinth

From monolithic concrete it is possible in the formwork. A good option would be to build it without horizontal and vertical seams immediately around the entire perimeter of the house. You can increase the strength of the base by placing inside a reinforcing cage made from old pipes, corners and wire. If the basement has a significant thickness, then the internal formwork can be brickwork.

The outer surface of the concrete plinth can be given all sorts of textures if the proper matrix is ​​laid in the formwork: corrugated fiberglass, rubber mats. After stripping, the concrete surface is cleaned of sags and smudges, cracks and voids are sealed in it, covered with liquid cement mortar or cement milk. You can also paint, but any paint does not last long on the base.

When laying the plinth from standard factory-made concrete blocks, they must be selected in height, taking into account the minimum thickness of the masonry joints. In such cases, grouting or jointing will be of better quality and more reliable.

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Brick plinth

Brick is the most commonly used plinth material. Experts recommend using only red brick. Before the construction of the basement floor begins, it must be provided for the presence of special ventilation holes, which should be located 15 cm from the ground level. Every 3 m, at least one hole must be made, it must be covered with some kind of dampers or a special metal mesh.

The process of arranging the basement is responsible and complex. You can lay it out yourself, but experts can handle it best. Reliability, strength, strength of the house depend on the basement and foundation.

In any case, there is a certain technology for proper installation. At the initial stage, it is necessary to set the corners correctly, along them the base is laid out further. This early stage is important. The first row is set along the width of the base, the solution is not used here. It is necessary to build it, strictly observing the level, because it is forbidden to move the rows in the future. Next, you need to measure all sides to make sure that the future design is even. The laying must be completely flat.

The maximum allowable discrepancy can be 2 cm. They can be corrected during further laying, but if the distance is large, then it must be corrected immediately, otherwise problems will arise further.

Then the turn of the device of the red brick base itself comes up. After measurements, you can proceed with the installation. A plinth is laid out of bricks and a mortar consisting of cement and sand. Load: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of clean sand, water (you need enough to make a plastic and thick solution).

The plinth must be at least 380 mm wide. It depends on such circumstances:

• if foam is used as a layer of insulation for it, then the thickness should be 380 mm;
• in the case of using bricks without insulation when building a basement wall, the required thickness is 500 mm.

When erecting a basement, the height of the foundation should be from 30 to 40 cm. Then the basement floor can be made beautiful and high, that is, a rather spacious room can be built, which can be a boiler room or utility room.

It is necessary to remember about ventilation in order to create normal conditions for air circulation. You can lay a brick base in various ways using whole bricks or their halves, but you must remember about the correct construction and tying of brick corners. They carry the intended load and should not be deprived of attention.

The basement occupies an intermediate position between the foundation and the walls. It must protect them from moisture and withstand the load of the entire structure, furniture and equipment installed in the building. Last year, my friend and I did the necessary earthworks, laid the foundation for the future home. Now, in his free time, he lays out a brick plinth on the foundation.

Bricks for laying the second row

Vadik, owner of the future cottage, economist. He is interested in all ways to reduce costs. When buying a site and designing, he decided to test his professional knowledge in practice. Having heard that it is cheaper to do it yourself, I decided to master the specialty of a laborer and replace training in the gym with useful physical labor.

Brick plinth on a strip foundation

It is better to choose burnt brick. He has technical indicators for various properties and, in particular, for stability, much higher

On the strip foundation, a support layer is made under the walls of different materials, from cast reinforced concrete to stone. Red brick for the base combines:

• the required strength;
• simplicity of brickwork;
• low thermal conductivity;
• budget cost.

With a little skill and patience, you can lay out the plinth with your own hands in a few days. To protect the walls from moisture, waterproofing is done during the construction of the basement. You can lubricate the surface of the foundation with heated bitumen in several layers. In time, this is a long time, since it is necessary to wait for the applied material to solidify and only then spread the next one on the surface.

It is better to use roofing material in 2 layers. The strips are cut along the width of the base, plus 4-5 centimeters. They are fastened with bituminous glue and fixed on the surface of the foundation. You can make the mixture with your own hands or use the finished one by buying it in the store. In heated bitumen, I added washed river sand. My friend mixed everything well.

Checking the dimensions and geometry of the foundation for the base

Bassoon plinth

Before starting work, I decided to check the strip foundation. Time has passed since it was filled. He could shrink, washed away by rainwater. The unevenness of the base plane will entail the distortion of the entire house and the constant repair of walls and ceilings. Measurements are taken using a ruler, tape measure and cord.

1. I measured the strip foundation with the help of a lath level along and across in several places. This is best done in the corners and every 2 meters of length. By placing a long device, it is easy to determine the presence of a slope. If you only have a corner level with short sides, put a plank underneath.
2. On the foundation in the corners he laid a dry brick along the outer edge. Then, with the help of Vadik, I checked the diagonal. For a regular rectangle, the size of the cord from corner to corner is the same. If the length is different, then the corners are not straight. For a brick basement of a residential building, a difference in the length of the diagonals of up to 2 centimeters is permissible.
3. Find the skew, and check the dimensions better with a tape measure. Measured at the corners. The foundation was poured without formwork. The outer walls are uneven. Brick simplifies measurements.

Having corrected the dimensions by shifting the corners, we checked the diagonals again with a cord. Then I marked the position of the brick base. Now, pulling the cord and fastening it to the pegs, he marked the outer side of the walls. It remains to lay out the plinth of bricks. I was sure of the correctness of the geometry of the frame of the house.

My friend smeared the strip foundation with glue from above with glue, laid layers of prepared roofing material, connected together with a bituminous mixture. The bottom waterproofing is ready. The walls will not get damp from moisture from the soil. Under the brick, on the waterproofing, I laid out a layer of cement mortar 2 cm thick. It will serve as a pillow and compensate for irregularities. For strength, I drowned a metal mesh with a 50 mm cell in it, cutting it slightly narrower in width than the base.

Brick laying pattern and plinth width

Brick plinth

We started preparing a ditch for the strip foundation after the completion of the house project. Then I imagined exactly what the width of the brick base should be, based on the calculated loads. The weight of a two-story brick building is large. If the masonry is narrow - 250 mm, then the brick for the basement may not withstand. Cracks will form on the walls. Repair and strengthening of the house will cost more than construction.

What width to make the foundation is determined by the laying of the basement. Standard brick dimensions are 250x120x50 mm. The minimum size can be laid out by alternating rows with transverse laying in one row and longitudinal in two. Such a foundation is made for light houses made of wood, foam concrete, shell rock. Under walls made of wood and light material for cottages on 2 floors, laying one and a half bricks (380 mm) is suitable. Vadik plans 2 levels, a residential attic with insulation. It is better to use a wide masonry for a brick base in two rows (520 mm). House repairs will need to be done on this basis in 15 years.

Determining the size of the finished plinth in width is simple. To the dimensions of the brick is added 10 mm for each seam. I did row alternation:

• two rows of bricks across the foundation;
• the outer and inner rows are lengthwise, the middle is filled with artificial stones laid transversely.

Such a plinth guaranteed stability for a multi-storey building made of heavy building material. Repair of the basement exterior finish may be required after a few years.

The choice of materials for the plinth of ceramic bricks

Silicate blocks can only be used in dry climates

When buying a brick, Vadik asked me which one to take and why. I advised him solid. With a temperature difference, especially in winter, condensation appears in the holes - dew. Moisture accumulates, is absorbed into the material and destroys the base. It will need renovation in a few years. A practicing economist, Vadik, was interested in a cheaper way to build a brick basement. I told him about the possibility of using used material. When dismantling buildings and demolishing partitions, if they make major repairs, they break walls. The brick is cleaned of the old mortar and tightly laid in the basement, choosing the less damaged one for the outer rows. In terms of strength, such a top foundation is inferior to that laid out from a new stone, with the correct geometry. Loads on it are made less. Do-it-yourself styling for a beginner is difficult. It is necessary to constantly check the level and select pieces of brick of the right size.

As a binder, I used cement mortar grade M-75. My friend did it in a concrete mixer. Loaded into it:

• cement;
• sand;
• lime milk;
• water was added after stirring.

The proportions depend on the brand of cement. For example: 0.8 liters of lime diluted in water to the state of milk is added to one bucket of Portland cement M500. Sand 7 buckets. Water is added for the first time in parts and its proportion in the mixture is determined. The solution should be kept on a trowel by a slide and not slide off an inclined plane.

Tip: Lime should not exceed 10% by volume in the dry mix. It is better to introduce it already slaked and dissolved in water - milk of lime. For builders without experience, working slowly, it is better to buy a ready-made mixture with plasticizers and additives that slow down the setting of the solution.

Ligation of bricks in the basement and waterproofing

Do-it-yourself brick masonry

On the waterproofing layer, my friend laid out a layer of concrete and pressed the mesh into it. Now I did the laying of the plinth. I need an assistant to prepare the solution. But Vadik wanted to try to do everything with his own hands. He asked me to choose a site simpler, on a flat line without corners. He carefully aligned the outer row along the stretched cord and then laid the rest of the brick tightly. After a couple of hours, I got used to doing everything myself. I fixed 2 boards at each corner close to the masonry. Now it remained to lay the brick, pressing against them. Carnations for the cord of the outer line were easily hammered into the tree. Such a device helps out when it is necessary to repair the corners and facade of the house.

Every 4 rows, now I, as an assistant, laid the mesh for strength. While the concrete mixer was running, I marked out openings for vents - holes for ventilation of the underground space of the house. I prepared the top layer of waterproofing, which was additionally laid under the masonry walls.

I advised Vadik to choose masonry with bandaging half the width of the brick. The outer layer alternated with transverse and longitudinal rows. Now when laying, the joints did not match. This made the base durable, and excluded repairs in the near future.

Protective and decorative finishing of the outer side of the plinth and blind area

Brick plinth masonry

Having finished laying the basement, we dug a ditch around the perimeter and poured a pillow under the blind area. Its width was determined by the size of the overhang of the roof, plus a strip for guaranteed rainwater runoff onto the concrete path. The slope from the building was 1.5 - 2 degrees. Otherwise, water will leak under the basement, destroy the foundation and have to make repairs, removing mold in the corner of the walls.

I made the final exterior finish with a decorative stone on a concrete mortar after the walls were erected.

The basement is the lower part of the outer wall of the building, which is erected on the base and plays the role of a barrier between the wall and the destructive effects of atmospheric phenomena. A building without a basement is at risk from mold and rot and is less able to retain heat inside during the cold season. The main condition for a brick base on a strip foundation is high strength. Its structure must withstand the entire mass of the walls of the building. High-quality materials with a high level of resistance to frost, moisture and pressure strength will help to achieve the required indicator.

To date, there are three options for the basement, which are used in the construction of residential premises:

• Exit plinth. From the name you can understand that such a coating goes beyond the outer walls of the house. This kind of basement will be used if they want to achieve additional heat resistance during frost, or if this is required by the style of the building itself, because from an aesthetic point of view this option is more attractive. So that water does not linger on the surface of the base, it is usually equipped with grooves or a drainage system.
• The plinth end-to-end with the outer walls has recently been used extremely rarely. This fact is due, first of all, to the absence of any useful properties in this type of base.
• The recessed base will be used in the construction of residential buildings. Erected 6 cm deeper than the plane of the outer walls, this type of plinth can save money on the organization of water runoff, and also ensure the safety of the waterproofing layer.

What should be the width of the plinth

The dimensions of the basement directly depend on the material from which the walls of the building will be built. Such information is always contained in the general plan and on the project drawing. With walls made of foam block (which is sometimes also called gas silicate brick) with a long surface of 60 cm, a width of 30 cm and a height of 20 cm, the masonry must have a thickness of at least 30 cm.

If further construction involves the equipment of an additional insulating layer on top of the walls, then the width of the plinth should ideally be 38 cm. However, in the case when the brick is used as a decorative element built on top of the walls of foam concrete blocks, the thickness of the plinth increases by another 22 cm, after which it will be at least 60 cm.

Determining the height

Until now, the masters of the construction business do not have an unambiguous answer to the question of what should be the height of the basement. As the level at which the upper point of the masonry should be, it is best to take the height of the precipitation that has fallen over the past few years. This masonry technology is the most reliable and guarantees a long service life for a future building erected on a brick strip foundation.

But in practice, the most common basement masonry with a height equal to the floor of the first floor in the building. This technique also applies to buildings with a basement. Fashion and style trends in our time imply the presence of a high and massive plinth in the house, which are able to highlight the living space, giving it elegance and elegance.

Insulated brick base on a strip foundation

We remind you that all work on the organization of the basement is carried out on the erected tape base.

We outline the corners

One of the most important rules in the construction of not only the base, but any building in general, can be considered the correct definition of the corners of the structure. Negligence in this matter will certainly lead to a curvature of the surface of the walls, which will eventually lead to their partial or even full bearing capacity.

Several technologies are used to correctly set the corners, but the following technique is considered the simplest:

1. At all corners of the base of the building, a row of bricks is laid out without the use of cement mortar. In this case, the planned width of the future structure must be observed. The corners are inserted using the building level.
2. Next, measure the length and width on both sides, as well as the diagonals. All readings must match to the nearest centimeter. Measurements are carried out using a tape measure or twine.
3. It does not hurt to check the future walls again for irregularities. To do this, use the same twine.

Base surface waterproofing

In order to ensure reliable protection of the basement masonry from groundwater, care should be taken to organize the upper part of the foundation with an insulating layer, the functions of which can be performed by roofing material folded in half. It is glued to the surface of the base using bituminous mastic, a burner or heated bitumen. Also, glass isol, euroroofing material or an improved type of roofing material, which is based on cardboard - rubemast, is used as a waterproofing layer.

Bricklaying

Having provided the surface of the foundation with a waterproofing layer, you can start laying a brick basement. To fasten the bars, a solution of cement, sand and water is used. When building a basement, only red brick is used without holes and cavities.

They start laying out the base from the corners, placing the rows opposite each other, and covering the surface of the material with a solution 2-2.5 cm thick. After laying out several rows, the surface is checked with a level.

Having reached the minimum height of the base, which is 4 rows of standard bricks, you can begin to build walls. Trim the surface of the basement with decorative stone or siding. It is not uncommon to resort to decorating the basement with finishing tiles. With the help of a basement coating, the strip foundation is leveled with a brick.

If there is a basement floor in the room, holes in the basement for ventilation should be provided. They are located at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil. Dimensions depend on the diameter of the vent pipe. From above, the plinth is covered with a waterproofing layer, the same as the surface of the foundation was covered earlier.

Video about laying bricks on a strip base:

Plinth - the lower part of the outer wall of the house, built on the foundation and designed to save the walls from the damaging effects of moisture. A house without a plinth is at risk of mold and rot, may lose its ability to resist cold and increase heat transfer between the interior and the street.

One of the indisputable conditions is the strength of the basement, because the entire weight of the walls of the house rests on it. That is why the materials used must be of high quality, characterized by frost resistance, low moisture resistance and pressure resistance.

There are three basement options used in construction:

• Outgoing - goes beyond the wall. This option is justified in two cases - it is part of the design of the building (aesthetically it is more advantageous) or there is a need for enhanced insulation of the basement. Be sure to be equipped with a slope or groove for water drainage.

  Exit plinth sample

• Standing end-to-end with a wall is an unpopular option today due to the lack of useful qualities.
• Recessed by 6 cm into the wall of the house - the most optimal when building a house. It has a number of advantages: savings in construction, the security of the basement and wall junction, which ensures the safety of the waterproofing layer, the absence of an indispensable condition for ensuring water discharge.

  Recessed plinth sample

Plinth width

To select the overall width of the plinth, it is worth referring to the drawing of the building project to determine the material that will be used to build the walls. For example, for gas silicate bricks (commonly known as foam concrete) with a side size of 600 X 300 X 200, the thickness of the masonry should be 30 cm, and if additional wall insulation is planned in the future, then a width of 38 cm is what you need. But when using brick as a decorative element on top of foam concrete blocks, the thickness increases to 60 cm.

Plinth height

The question of where the base ends is still controversial. The most reliable option is considered to determine the height based on the maximum amount of snowfall over several decades. The plinth, calculated using this simple technique, will protect the walls from the effects of capillary moisture, thereby increasing the reliability and durability of the built house.

But basically, the height corresponds to the level at which the floor of the first floor of the building is located. This rule also applies to houses with a basement.

Designers usually prefer a tall one, as it gives the home lightness and grace.

The erection of a recessed brick base on a reinforced concrete strip foundation.

(Further instructions are for building on a ready-made foundation.)

• Setting corners when building a basement.

One of the most important rules for laying the basement is the correct setting of the corners, because incorrectly set corners will lead to further curvature of the walls and, accordingly, to marriage in the construction of the building.

The simplest way is this:

In all corners, lay a row of dry bricks, determining the width of the planned basement. The corners are level.

With a tape measure or twine, the lengths of all sides and both diagonals are measured - the dimensions must match up to centimeters and be equal, respectively.

It is also worth checking the future walls for possible curvature, using the same twine along the inside of the line from corner to corner.

The process of building a plinth

Waterproofing of the upper surface of the foundation.

Insulation is necessary for additional protection of the basement from groundwater.

Two layers of roofing material are laid on the foundation in the following ways:

1. on bituminous mastic or heated bitumen;
2. connection with a burner, processing the surface of the roofing material.

You can use rubemast, glass roofing material (stekloizol), euroroofing material.

Plinth waterproofing

Brick plinth masonry

After setting the corners, it's time to start laying the base. To create it, a brick bonded with a cement-sand mortar is usually used. Only solid red brick is used for construction.

It is advisable to start laying from the corners, then lay out the rows opposite each other on one side with the thickness of the applied mortar somewhere around 20-25mm.

A plumb line checks the accuracy of laying a vertical surface after 3-4 rows of bricks.

After the final check of the corners, the laying of the wall begins. To make the row even, a thick fishing line is pulled between two corners.

Brick plinth masonry

The minimum height is at least 4 stacked rows, natural stone finishes, finishing tiles or siding are allowed.

If the house has basements, ventilation holes are left on each side of the basement at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil, ranging in size from 7 x 25 to 15 x 25 cm. closed with nets or small bars.

Brick finish plinth

Plinth waterproofing

To protect against moisture penetration, it is necessary to lay waterproofing materials, making a distinction between the basement and the brick wall; for cheap construction, for example, roofing material folded in half can be used. Of course, it is not necessary to manage only with them; the choice of materials for insulation is now quite extensive. Double waterproofing is necessary in order to protect the house not only from the external influence of the elements, but also from the influence of groundwater on the foundation.

Basement waterproofing scheme

Video - how to make a brick base

The basement is the outer part of the building, located on the foundation and being the transition from the base to the walls. In addition to its bearing capacity, the plinth must withstand various external influences. Therefore, it is necessary to choose all materials with special care and responsibility!

Features of a brick base

Before starting masonry work, you need to familiarize yourself with important details:
If the building material is brick, then you need to decide on the thickness of the frame.

Tip: Based on the size of the building and what material the walls will be made of, the thickness of the foundation directly depends. For example, the thickness for a brick structure should be from 500 mm (in 2 bricks), for a wooden one - at least 250 mm (in 1–1.5 bricks).

Before brick laying, it is necessary to apply a layer of waterproofing on the strip foundation, which will be protection from moisture.

A good roofing material is used as a waterproofing, but in some cases bitumen-based coating compositions are used, which must be applied with a layer of 1.5–2 mm. Rolled material will still be not only more reliable, but also easier.

Brick laying is done flat so that the top layer of masonry overlaps the seams of the bottom row. Before starting laying, it is necessary to stretch the cord along the foundation. Each row must be checked for evenness using a building level.

It is worth remembering that the thickness of the brick base will be different for each material from which the walls of the building are erected.

Preparatory work

This includes the purchase, preparation and subsequent laying of the selected mortar (cement or cement-sand). It is best to purchase solutions labeled M75 for such work.

The prepared mixture is laid out on the foundation gradually with a layer of 2 cm and slightly leveled. In the middle of the layer, it is required to lay a mesh of reinforcement; for its manufacture, VR-1 wire with a diameter of 4 mm is required.

Preparatory work consists of 2 stages:

1. Checking the diagonal and horizontality of the foundation, which is carried out using a hydraulic level, which first of all needs to check the corners and only then the entire area.
2. Surface leveling.Attention! If you want to make a foundation at 0, then you need to think about this even during its pouring. And if it is already completely ready, but there are deformations, then they need to be corrected.

What will be needed?

To perform masonry, you will need the following material, which must be reliable and of high quality:

• brick;
• cement mortar;
• Net.

For work you will need:

1. Master OK;
2. pick;
3. shovel;
4. order;
5. cord;
6. stitching;
7. levels for construction work and water;
8. metal rod;
9. trough;
10. plumb.

For the construction of the foundation, in addition to bricks, you need to buy the optimal amount of sand and cement.

Laying work

The most crucial stage at the beginning of the construction of the basement is the construction of corners. The first row must be laid out strictly across the entire width of the building. A solution of cement, water and sand should have the following proportions 1:3:3.

ADVICE: sometimes a soap solution is used as a plasticizer. During the construction of the foundation, it is necessary to take care of high-quality ventilation. You can start work only when the angles are equal to 90 degrees, and the dimensions of the width, length and diagonal match.

ATTENTION! If the basement masonry is only made of bricks, then its width should be at least 50 cm, it can only be less if the insulation is made of foam. If the building will have a basement, then the height of the basement is 70–100 cm, if not, then 40 cm.

The brick basement is insulated from the inside as desired, and outside, mastic is required, which is applied with a brush, roller or a specialized apparatus. Laying is carried out with constant control of the level and cord.

ATTENTION! It is impossible to correct inaccuracies using the thickness of the mortar between the rows of bricks - the wall may collapse and then you will have to disassemble the entire structure!

Setting corners

Setting the corners during the laying of the basement is one of the main tasks, incorrectly placed corners will lead to the curvature of the walls!

To do this, put on a dry row of bricks in the corners and determine the desired width of the base. All corners must be level.

Using twine or a tape measure, it is necessary to measure the length of all sides and 2 diagonals - if the corners are set correctly, then the dimensions should match identically.

ADVICE: in order to check future walls for curvature, for this they measure along the inside of the line from corner to corner.

Brick plinth over foundation

You can proceed with the installation only after all measurements have been made. To fix the bricks, a cement-sand mortar is required in a ratio of 1: 3, diluted with water to the required density of the mortar.

The main condition for this work is the careful filling of vertical or horizontal joints with a prepared mortar for the strength of the foundation.

basement insulation

To insulate the foundation, waterproof materials such as polystyrene foam are required, which need to process the entire outer surface, fix it with a special glue - which does not include acetone and solvent - that harm it.

Plinth waterproofing

Before proceeding with the construction of the structure, you need to make sure that all waterproofing materials are in stock - plaster, stone, ceramic tiles.

Waterproofing methods:

• Waterproofing is carried out at 2 levels - at the very bottom, before the first brick laying, and on top of the bricks. The easiest way is to lay the roofing material in two layers. The first layer guarantees protection against moisture of the wall, and the second layer provides protection.
• Extruded polystyrene foam, which is fixed on the outer surface of the base. Due to the fact that this material has zero water absorption, it has high protective properties. It also has thermal insulation, and therefore will give the structure additional protection.
• Bitumen grease is applied to the entire surface of the bricks in thick layers in several approaches. Various plaster mixtures.

ATTENTION! If you combine all the options, you will end up with high waterproofing!

Ventilation

In the laying of the foundation, there must be holes that are at a height of 15 cm from the ground, which will ensure good ventilation. You need to cover the holes with a metal mesh or dampers.

Brick plinth protection

Protection is required if it is necessary to stop construction work. To do this, a film is laid on the structure being erected, which protects the frame from various adverse environmental conditions.

Although this article contains detailed instructions on how to lay a brick plinth, they will not help if there is not even a little experience with these materials.

On top of the foundation, it is often used to form a basement for a workshop, garage, basement or household needs. The technique has been used for several centuries, its advantages are obvious: additional thermal insulation of the house, durability of the structure, minimal cluttering of the site with auxiliary buildings, etc. It is better to lay a red brick base, since it is based on clay, it is durable, minimally subject to wear and resistant to moisture.

Types of plinth

Every third house with a brick basement was built by hand, the percentage is even higher if we take into account only the tape type of foundation.

The brick plinth device is divided into several types:

• smooth. When removing the building in one plane, it is important to maintain the same thickness of the walls of the base and living quarters. In order to improve the aesthetic appearance, decorative borders or cornices are used, they visually help to separate from housing;

The basement is a transition from the foundation directly to the structure itself

• speaker. It has a spectacular appearance and clearly delimits the features of the base from the residential building. On top of the plinth structure, ebbs are always installed. It is important to determine the thickness of the walls, only after calculating the width they determine the amount of brick and mortar, then they begin to make the foundation;
• sinking. Brick from the effects of atmospheric phenomena is prone to destruction, in order to prevent a negative phenomenon, a sinking type of basement is used. It is more often used in rainy regions. Here the plinth is somewhat thinner than the main walls.

What materials and tools will be required?

When laying the basement in 1 or 2 bricks, the same materials and tools will be required, but in different quantities.

Materials:

• reinforcing masonry mesh;
• brick, preferably red, but silicate is also suitable;
• basis for cement mortar: cement, sand, other additives at will (plasticizers, frost-resistant additives).

Before laying a brick base, you should prepare the tools:

When building a plinth, it is worth considering in advance what material you will use.

• level - to determine the plane and evenness of the wall;
• construction cord, they create markings;
• a plumb line helps to form a strictly vertical position of the wall;
• ordering is used to create a beautiful wall;
• a hammer with a pick is useful if it is necessary to separate the brick;
• the trowel helps while working with the solution;
• shovel for mixing cement;
• templates, metal rods are suitable.

What kind of brick is needed for the basement?

An important stage of construction is the choice of a suitable type of brick, it must have:

• high strength;
• durability;
• resistance to negative atmospheric influences;
• decorative qualities. After construction, the design of a summer cottage or garden should only improve;
• frost resistance, withstanding numerous cycles of freezing and thawing;
• low ability to absorb moisture;
• ecological purity of raw materials;
• high-quality adhesion with cement to eliminate cracks and the formation of defects.

The deformation of the material after the construction of the structure, the increase in load is unacceptable, therefore it is important to pay attention to determining the stability and strength of the brick.

Solid bricks should be used for construction

The following types of bricks correspond to the listed characteristics:

• silicate. However, it is undesirable to lay a brick base on a strip foundation of a silicate type, since it has low resistance to high humidity. Prolonged exposure to moisture will lead to swelling of the material, loss of strength and gradual destruction. It is allowed to make a foundation of silicate brick, be sure to first determine the level of humidity in the region. If the humidity is high, foundation waterproofing is necessary, but base finishing will be required;
• red. Made from pressed clay with heat treatment. It gives the plinth the necessary strength and to a greater extent, but not completely, is protected from moisture. When choosing, it is better to give preference to the M150 brick, it can withstand up to 60 freezing cycles. In climates with high humidity, it is recommended to use the M250;
• ceramic. Differs in the greatest durability. Clinker bricks are a type of ceramics, they are the most reliable for building a plinth. The basis uses a special grade of clay, which is baked at elevated temperatures. Clinker brick is resistant to moisture, frost-resistant and has an optimal bearing capacity. It is often used during the construction of wells and wells.

Finishing the outside of the plinth is an optional procedure, but when using silicate, red brick, it helps to increase the durability of the base and prevents deformation.

It is better to purchase material with a small margin

Calculation of the number of bricks

At the stage of planning work, it is important to correctly calculate the amount of bricks. Many factors affect the quantity: the length, thickness and height of the wall, the complexity of the shape of the structure, the presence of decorative inserts. The dimensions of the basement and the determination of the need for building materials are always calculated in advance, construction costs depend on them, and the purchase of bricks is one of the largest expense items.

The thickness and height of the building should be calculated taking into account the dimensions of the building blocks. Additionally, the thickness of the seams between the rows is taken into account, it is mainly 10 ± 2 mm. According to SNiP 3.03.01-87, the thickness should be 12 mm, but an error of -2 or +3 mm is allowed, in practice 10 mm is the best indicator for calculations. If reinforced material is laid, the joint size can reach 16 mm.

The thickness can be not only a multiple of the size of a brick, but halves are also often used: half a brick, one and a half, two and a half bricks. There is always a seam between several blocks. If the wall is made of 2.5 bricks, then the total width will be: 250 + 250 + 120 + 20 = 640 mm, where 250 mm is the length of the whole block, 120 mm is the size of half the element and 20 mm is the thickness of two seams. Laying a basement in 1 brick for the first time is the best option, as it does not require any calculations, but is used exclusively for lightly loaded buildings.

It is worth considering that the bricks are one-and-a-half and double. The only difference is the height of the block, standard - 65 mm, one and a half - 88 mm, double - 138 mm.

Always make a footnote for the stock when determining the quantity. It is recommended to buy 5-15% more than the calculated amount, more precisely, the stock percentage is determined based on the builder's skills.

The basement is the above-ground part of the building and is located above the foundation

Plinth masonry mortar

Preparing a sufficient volume of masonry mortar will help not to be distracted by the purchase of material.

The calculation of concrete for construction depends on the masonry technique, but there are average indicators:

• 0.221 m3 is spent on laying 1 m3 in 1 block;
• on a one and a half wall 1 m3 - 0.234 m3;
• on a double - 0.245 m3.

For masonry, it is recommended to use Portland cement M300, M400 or M500, clean sand of medium fraction and lime. A little clay will help increase the elasticity of the composition. Before laying, the mortar should be homogeneous, plastic and without large elements: gravel, shells, slag, compressed cement, etc. Before preparation, it is recommended to sift the sand through a small sieve. When laying and insulating, the solution is made simple, without impurities, and the mixture for the foundation can be made with fillers.

A construction mixer is used to mix the solution, but it is allowed to install a nozzle on an electric drill.

When determining the mixing ratio, it is worth considering the brand of brick. The greatest strength will come when using approximately the same brand of solution. In the process of calculation, a correction is made for soil moisture. Usually prepare a solution of M75, M100 or M125.

Reliable plinth installation is a difficult task, but with a little experience you can handle it yourself

For the manufacture of a cement-sand mixture, the following proportions are used:

If limestone is planned to be added to the composition, the ratio of ingredients will be:

Checking for compliance with the horizontal foundation

After pouring the foundation, use the water level. One side of it is fixed at any corner of the building, and the other is moved between the other corners. If the surface is even in all areas, it is suitable for masonry. If there is a discrepancy between the indicators, the error should be measured and the level should be leveled.

For large discrepancies, alignment is carried out with a solution, the area with the highest point is taken as the base. If the error is within 1-2 cm, you can level the base by applying a larger initial seam. A drier mortar is used for it, otherwise the concrete will spread under the weight of the brick.

Initially, you should correctly set the corners, for this, pegs are driven into the corners. A cord is stretched diagonally between them. The length of each segment is compared, if the design has an ideal angle, the length should be equal. With a difference in size, a conclusion is made about the violation of the geometry of the structure. An error of up to 2 cm is eliminated during the masonry process.

Construction site waterproofing

Waterproofing is indispensable, it performs important functions:

• prevents a negative impact on the base;
• provides moisture impermeability;
• increases the durability of the structure;
• protects against cracks and other deformations.

Waterproofing needs to be addressed before you start laying bricks

An important task of waterproofing is to eliminate any cavities in the foundation. The layer will prevent the passage of moisture even if there are through holes. If there is a cavity in the masonry, water will get into it, which, when frozen, will expand and provoke a crack.

The highest quality waterproofing involves laying not only a horizontal layer, but also a vertical layer located between the base and the plinth. Tightness is a guarantee of reliability and high-quality protection of the building.

The most common options for waterproofing material:

• soft rubber coating
• laying a two-layer roofing material with an intermediate layer of mastic;
• the use of glass isol is a new durable material with high-quality protection.

How to lay out a brick plinth?

The construction of a brick basement differs little, regardless of the thickness of the wall and the number of rows.

Step-by-step instructions on how to lay a brick base:

During the masonry, a plumb line and a level are periodically used to control the correctness of the work.

In 1 brick

The laying of a basement in 1 brick is used for lightly loaded structures: garages, agricultural buildings, workshops, etc.

If you do everything with your own hands, you can simplify the task a little and lay out the brick one side by side

The laying procedure is carried out according to a single system, but it is important to adhere to the basic rules:

• during the laying process, the seams of one row and the other should not be allowed to coincide;
• the wall must be reinforced to prevent cracks;
• brick plinth is recommended to be covered with cladding.

In 2 bricks

The laying of the base in 2 bricks differs only in the technique:

• dressing is performed infrequently, 1 time in 2-3 rows is enough;
• reinforcement is best done every 2-3 rows;
• acceptable brick offset in each row is 25%, ideal is 50% of the brick width.

The subtleties of masonry in 1 and 2 bricks

Block laying works are not complicated, but they have certain nuances of execution:

• before laying, the brick is moistened in water, this will help prevent quick setting and level the position of the block;
• it is better to prepare a solution with the addition of lime;
• cement mortar should have an average consistency so that it does not spread and lays down easily;
• reinforcement is performed every 2-3 tiers. If the basement is low, laying metal is an optional procedure;
• it is better to start construction from corners located diagonally from each other;
• it is easier to control the level of the brick with a stretched construction cord.

The direction of laying bricks should be alternated from row to row.

Brick plinth protection

Installation of a protective layer will be required, if necessary, to suspend construction. The easiest way is to lay a waterproofing film on top of the brickwork, which will protect against moisture and sunlight.

The manufacture of a basement is the most important stage in the construction of a house, because the durability of the entire structure depends on the correct execution of the masonry.

It will be useful for a novice builder in advance:

• accurately determine, with possible errors and margin;
• learn how to insulate the basement of a house, and what are the best materials for keeping warm with weather resistance. Often used, as the material is durable and easy to install.

Conclusion

To begin with, we will prepare all the necessary tools and materials for the upcoming work.

Tools:

• Trowel (trowel)
• Pickhammer
• Shovel shovel
• Stitching
• ordering
• Cord-mooring
• Hydraulic level
• plumb line
• Building level
• 2 templates: metal bar 10x10mm and 12x12mm
• Concrete mixer or trough
• Gloves

materials

• Brick
• For mortar: cement, sand, plasticizer or lime or Fairy
• Masonry mesh for reinforcement

Preparatory work. Foundation

So, let's begin. We have a rectangular strip foundation, on which we will build a half-brick wall.

We check the horizontalness of the foundation with a hydraulic level

First you need to determine how flat relative to the ground level we got the horizontal surface of the foundation? For this purpose, we will use the hydraulic level and check the corners first, and then the entire perimeter along the foundation. (when filling the water level with water, make sure that there are no bubbles in the tube, otherwise the measurements may not be accurate).

In the figure, we see that both corners are at the same level. As the masters say, "is at zero." But this method of measurement cannot be applied if our foundation has discrepancies regarding the level. So let's move on to a more practical way.

Let's lower the 1st flask of the hydro level relative to the foundation so that the “0” mark is 5 cm lower than the upper surface of the foundation (with the condition that the maximum difference along the foundation at the max point is slightly less than 5 cm). Opposite the “0” mark on the flask, we put a mark on the foundation. We will not touch this flask now. First, let's check all the outer corners of the foundation, in our case there are 4 of them. To do this, we will transfer the 2nd flask to all 3 corners, and put a mark on the foundation opposite the “0” mark, which is on the 2nd flask. Then we repeat the steps with the 2nd flask, transferring it to other measured points on the foundation.

When we have placed all the marks, we begin to measure the distances between the mark on the foundation and the upper edge of the foundation. In the figure, we measured the distance on two segments: a and b. Let's assume distance a =5cm and b =5cm (a =b). Therefore, the foundation at these points is set to "0".

The second option a \u003d 5 cm, b \u003d 3 cm. Therefore, there is a difference relative to zero of 2cm. Such a foundation needs to be leveled, while we take the highest point on the foundation as zero. There are several ways to align:

• leveling screed on a cement-sand mortar using formwork,
• brickwork, changing the thickness of the horizontal seam.

If the difference is large, then it is better to level it with a mortar, if it is small, then it is possible with the help of masonry. Just do not forget that the thickness of the horizontal seam allowed according to SNiP should be 12 mm with a tolerance of + 3, -2 mm (according to SNiP 3.03.01-87). When reinforcing, the maximum thickness of the seam should not exceed 16mm. And for reference: the allowed permissible deviation from the horizontal for 10m of masonry is up to 15mm, which is then eliminated by the next row.

Checking the foundation diagonals

The second important point when checking the foundation should be given to the diagonals. Ideally, the diagonals in a rectangular foundation should match. According to the figure, we displayed the coincidence of the diagonals in a small equality D 1 \u003d D 2. If they are equal, we can judge that all our parallel sides have the same length and all 4 angles are at 90 degrees. These conditions are important to us so that our walls turn out to be even.

If there is a slight discrepancy in the diagonals, then this inaccuracy can be compensated during laying by reducing the long side and increasing the short one. Of course, if the thickness of the foundation and the thickness of the masonry allow us to do this.

Waterproofing

After we figured out the measurements of the foundation, we proceed to the next stage: waterproofing the upper part of the foundation. It is carried out using 2 layers of roofing material. The second layer is laid with overlapping seams of the first by 10 - 15 cm. Roofing material can be laid in several ways:

• dry, I temporarily press the roofing material to the foundation with bricks (so as not to be blown away by the wind);
• on bituminous mastic or heated bitumen;
• gluing by heating the surface of the roofing material with a burner.

Modern roofing material has several modifications: rubemast, glass roofing material (stekloizol), euroroofing material. According to their characteristics, they are superior to ordinary roofing material, but their price is higher. A wide choice of rolled waterproofing is offered by TechnoNIKOL.

Why you need to waterproof the foundation before brickwork? It's simple - so that moisture from the foundation does not pass into the basement or brick walls. Moisture can be not only due to rain and snowmelt, but also simply from the capillary suction of water from the soil of our foundation. Moreover, if we have a brick base and brick walls, then it will need to be waterproofed twice:

• between the foundation and the plinth;
• between the plinth and the brick wall.

Laying out the first row and marking the foundation

The next step is laying out the first row of bricks dry, that is, without using mortar.

What is it for? Masonry is considered ideal when the walls are laid out with whole bricks (without three-quarters, halves, and even more so quarters). Of course, the laying of corners is not taken into account, since brick shares are needed for dressing, and backfills where brick shares can be used. We are mainly talking about the front masonry, which should, as they say, "pleasing to the eye." Therefore, at this stage we will lay out the entire first row dry along the entire perimeter with vertical seams of 10mm. In order for the seam to turn out to be the same everywhere, we will use a template (metal square rod 10x10mm). If, as a result of the layout, we see that the last whole brick does not reach the edge of the foundation, or vice versa, the brick hangs over the foundation, then we can reduce or increase the width of the vertical seam. According to SNiP (3-03-01-87), the tolerance for vertical seams is + -2mm. If you can’t do without a share of a brick, then prepare it right away and determine where to place it. You also need to take into account that if we put the front brick over the basement, then we can make a small extension of the outer verst beyond the edges of the basement, since the basement will be plastered in the future.

After we have laid the entire row, it is necessary to make marks on the foundation (or basement), where we will have vertical seams. Due to the fact that each brick has small errors from standard sizes, it is recommended to use exactly the same brick during laying that we used during dry laying. Therefore, after marking, simply place each brick on the foundation opposite the marks. At the same time, if your roofing material is laid dry, just press it temporarily against the foundation with a brick.

We prepare the brick and the workplace

Do not forget that it is advisable to use the solution within 1-3 hours until it begins to set. Therefore, it is desirable to perform all preparatory work before preparing the solution, namely:

• Lay small stacks of bricks along the foundation. If the width of the foundation allows, then the brick can be placed directly on the foundation. The main thing is that it does not interfere with you when laying and at the same time you can easily reach it.
• Prepare the necessary tools for the job.

There is another type of work that is recommended to be done mainly when working with solid red brick. Namely, wet the brick with water. Just not until it is completely saturated with water, otherwise the brick will float on the solution. Then the logical question is how long to wet the brick. Experienced masons, according to the results of voting on one popular forum, share this opinion in the following proportions:

• do not wet 10%,
• wet for a couple of seconds 50%
• soak for 15 minutes 40%

Decide for yourself which way to choose, but if you are new to bricklaying, we recommend that you soak it for a while. Soaked brick retains a sufficiently long mobility on the mortar, thereby giving you the opportunity to eliminate possible defects. It is believed that the seam when using soaked brick is stronger, since there is no suction of moisture from the mortar by the brick itself. If you are too lazy to soak the brick in water, then there is an easy way - just pour plenty of water over the brick with a garden hose. www.site

Solution preparation

For laying bricks, we need a cement-sand mortar. To prepare it, we will use the following ratio:

• 1 share of cement (shovel, bucket, kg)
• 4 shares of sand (shovel, bucket, kg)
• lime or plasticizer or liquid soap (Fairy)
• water (by eye).

The ratio of cement to sand may differ depending on the characteristics of the cement-sand mortar we need (1 share of cement to 2.5-6 shares of sand). A plasticizer is added to give the solution plasticity. This characteristic is important for comfortable work during laying.

How to cook?

1. We take a container for mixing the solution. Ideally, it is better to use a concrete mixer. If it is not there, then any container convenient for these purposes (trough, etc.) will do.
2. We put 4 shovels of sand into the concrete mixer, and then 1 shovel of cement. We mix.
3. Add water by eye to obtain the desired consistency. At the same time, add 2-3 drops of Fairy (either a plasticizer or lime) previously diluted in a small amount of water. Mix thoroughly.

The solution should resemble thick honey or cottage cheese, depending on which solution we need.

You can also use our calculator to calculate the composition of the solution and count the number of batches for a concrete mixer:

Brick laying process

We start laying from the corners, the rows of which we display opposite each other at the same level. Why from the corners? Because the corners will serve as guidelines for laying out the walls using a mooring cord. The cord is stretched between 2 adjacent rows of bricks that make up the corner. Therefore, it is very important to observe the horizontal and vertical angles running at the same level against each other.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the so-called "bed" from the solution. If you do not have much experience, then we recommend putting the mortar on one brick that we are going to lay. The thickness of the laid mortar should be somewhere around 20-25mm (by eye), so that during the pressing of the brick, the thickness of the horizontal seam becomes 12mm (horizontal seam standard). We put the solution with a trowel. Our bed should not reach the edge of the foundation (or the underlying brick) by 20-30mm, if the seams are going to be embroidered, or 10-15mm, if undercut. In order for us to get the 12 mm seam we need, you can use a template (metal rod 12x12mm), which we lay along the very edge of the foundation in the place where we will lay the brick. We need a rod template before setting the order. Then, to maintain the thickness of the horizontal seam, it will be possible to use divisions in order. According to the marks on the foundation, we control the location of the vertical seams of the first row.

We proceed to the process of laying bricks on the mortar. We take a brick, put it on the bed and lightly press down. Then, using the level, we check the horizon and vertical in 3 directions, and if we see discrepancies somewhere, lightly knock out the brick with a pickaxe hammer or a trowel handle.

Making corners

Now, using the knowledge gained, we expose the corners brick by brick. The main thing is not to forget that the quality of the masonry of the entire wall will largely depend on how correctly the corners are set. Therefore, we use both an eye and devices that will help us in setting the corners.

Using a plumb line, we check the verticality of the masonry. A plumb bob is considered a very accurate device for checking the verticality of a surface. Probably the simplest and most accurate compared to the building level, which can sometimes fail. It makes no sense to use a plumb line when we have 1-2 rows of masonry, since it is difficult to determine by eye the divergence from the vertical in such a small area.

In the picture, we displayed 3 points equally distant from the masonry. Based on the fact that the distances in these segments are equal, we can conclude that our masonry is laid out exactly vertically. To work with a plumb line, of course, you need to have a good eye, since we determine all the distances between the masonry and the plumb line visually, by eye.

In order to maintain the same horizontal joints and to control the levelness of the masonry, we recommend using orders. They will be especially useful for people with little experience in bricklaying. Orders are set strictly vertically (along a plumb line or level) and are attached to the masonry with the help of U-shaped brackets. The distance between the divisions of the order is 77mm for a single brick (brick thickness 65mm + seam 12mm) and 100mm for a thickened brick (88mm + 12mm).

We pull the mooring cord

After removing the corners, you can proceed directly to the laying of the wall. In order for the whole row to be at the same level, we stretch the mooring cord between two opposite rows, which we have drawn in the same horizontal line. For mooring, you can use either a nylon thread, or a fishing line, or an analogue. The main thing is that it be strong and be visible to you when laying. The mooring can be fixed:

• to order, if holes are provided in it;
• with staples and nails.

We have shown both methods in the figures.

The mooring is fixed with a vertical indent from the masonry by 2-3 mm, so that there is no contact between the mooring and the brick along the entire length.

If there are no holes in the pier, then you can follow the simple and most common way to install the pier. To do this, we need 1 nail and 1 staple per 1 corner. We insert the nail into the finished seam and tie the mooring to it. Then we insert the mooring into the bracket. We put the bracket with the mooring threaded into it on the brick, along which we will make a row and press the bracket with a free-lying brick from above (without mortar). A stiff wire bent in half can serve as a staple. The figure shows in detail how it will look visually.

If the mooring sags, then you need to install the so-called beacons. For this purpose, 2 bricks are taken. The first is placed, taking into account the thickness of the seam, on the mortar or a rod template (12x12mm), and the second is placed with a poke on the first brick. We insert a nail between the bricks, on which the mooring is wound tightly.

We lay out the bottom row of the wall between the corners

On a stretched quay, we expose the first row of bricks between two corners. The thickness of the vertical joints and the location of the bricks are controlled by the risks on the foundation.

Lay out the rest of the rows

Then we lay the rest of the rows with dressing of seams according to the same principle (in our case, dressing in half a brick). At the same time, we no longer set risks as on the foundation for the first row, but we make sure that the vertical seams through the row are at the same level. In the figure, this is for example the seams in the 1st and 3rd row. You will find more detailed information about the types and methods of ligation of sutures in our article "".

Further, according to this principle, all the walls of our building are exposed. Do not forget to monitor the cleanliness of the front side of the masonry and embroider the seams until the mortar sets. Also, if masonry reinforcement is necessary, we determine after how many rows we will do it (usually every 5-6 rows). © www.site

Masonry reinforcement

That's all. If you missed something or have questions, you can ask them in the comments.

You can not choose a brick for the basement without understanding what kind of architectural element it is, when it is needed and what requirements are put forward for it. Only taking into account these data, it is possible to choose the optimal brick for the base, take into account all the parameters and performance characteristics.

A basement is the part of a building that protrudes above ground level. This may be a continuation of the foundation tape (called the basement of the foundation), reinforced concrete blocks or brickwork.

The parameters of the base depend on the maximum loads. If the house has reinforced concrete floor slabs on the ground floor, then the basement must be much stronger than the walls, its width increases, building materials with suitable bearing capacity are used. In all other cases, the plinth may not differ in size from ordinary facade walls.

It is often not economically feasible to make a basement out of concrete; brickwork will cost much less. A separate basement is also installed when the basement is planned to be equipped for residential. Brick is much warmer than concrete, which improves comfort and reduces the cost of maintaining a favorable microclimate.

We have already mentioned one feature of the plinth - it must hold the heaviest loads of all the architectural structures of the building. But that's not all - the base is operated in the most adverse conditions.

1. Proximity to the ground increases the negative impact of precipitation and groundwater. If the upper part of the wall is slightly wetted during rain, then all the water from the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe facade walls gets onto the basement.
2. Due to frequent and intense wetting, it is extremely negatively affected by temperature changes from plus to minus.
3. The plinth has vents for natural ventilation of the underground. This means that it is more than all elements of the building in adverse operating conditions.
4. If the house has a basement, then the materials must have low thermal conductivity. At the same time, the requirements for strength indicators are not reduced.

The use of various grades of bricks makes it possible to construct structures with the required thickness and height parameters in the shortest possible time and with little financial loss. Indicators of physical strength vary depending on the thickness of the base, thermal conductivity is regulated by the special characteristics of the brick or through the use of modern heaters. To protect the surfaces of the basement from the negative influence of climatic conditions, wall finishing is used. By the way, it also improves the design of the facade of the building. This factor must be borne in mind, not all types of bricks are allowed to use finishing, and if it can be done, then expensive materials and complex building technologies will have to be used.

Requirements for basement structures are prescribed in SNiP II-22-81. They indicate that the use of stones and blocks made of cellular concrete, ceramic or other bricks of dry manufacturing technology is not allowed. This means that the assertion of some "experts" in construction that hollow bricks cannot be used for plinths is unreasonable. The types of building materials listed in building codes and regulations are unsuitable for plinths for one common reason - they react extremely negatively to high humidity. Under such operating conditions, there is a significant loss of load-bearing characteristics and accelerated destruction.

SNiP II-22-81. "Stone and reinforced masonry structures". Download file

For all other types of bricks, the main requirement is compressive and bending strength indicators. Modern manufacturers have mastered the most advanced technologies that make it possible to obtain very durable hollow bricks, grade M 150 or more, they are used to build load-bearing walls of two-story and more buildings.

Why can't such material be used for the basement of one-story brick or wooden buildings? If the load allows, feel free to use them for the base.

One more nuance. When choosing bricks, it must be borne in mind that the larger the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base, the more significant the effort it holds. Based on the total load, the material of manufacture and linear dimensions are selected. As for the heat-saving characteristics, there are no regulatory requirements for the base.

What is the result?

It is impossible to put a basement without knowing the total weight of the house, the height of the snow cover, the seismic characteristics of the area and other factors that affect the foundation and the basement.

From the maximum load, the strength parameters of the brick and the dimensions of the base are calculated. In practice, brick grades below M 100 are rarely used for the basement, but this is an optional condition. Two bricks M 50 withstand almost the same load as one M 100, only it must be distributed over the entire surface of the masonry. The project includes a safety factor, which compensates for minor deviations from the regulatory requirements. And deviations always occur during the laying of any architectural structure.

Remember that putting the base "by eye" is a very risky business. By the way, all residential premises must have a project, otherwise they cannot be put into operation. And without an act, engineering networks are not connected, registration is not given, such buildings cannot be sold, donated or bequeathed by inheritance. Legally, they simply do not exist.

As mentioned above, our recommendations do not apply to residential buildings, they should be built only according to the project, and in it all the requirements and parameters of the bricks are indicated. Consider the cases of choosing a brick for a basement only for non-residential buildings and outbuildings. According to what characteristics should the material be selected?

Frost resistance

Bricks, depending on the brand and manufacturing technology, have this indicator from F15 to F100 or more. This means that the material can withstand 25-100 freeze/thaw cycles at maximum humidity. And moisture permeability ranges from 2% to 12%. State standards regulate the minimum period of natural wear and tear of buildings, it is 50 years. If an F50 brand brick is dipped fifty times in water and then exposed to frost, it will lose about 30% of its original strength, which is considered a critical value. But the basement brick will never get completely wet, it is always plastered or protected by other coatings. In practice, the F50 brand brick holds much more than fifty freeze / thaw cycles.

Why do bricks lose strength during freezing / freezing and what does it depend on? During freezing, water expands in volume by about 10%, while the forces of ice are so great that no known building material can withstand them. The more water there is in the brick, the more ice microcrystals in the brick, the faster the destruction occurs.

Strength

It is determined according to GOST 530-2007, the grade of brick for laying load-bearing walls must be at least M125, with a margin of safety, designers recommend using brick grade M150 for plinths.

GOST 530-2007. Brick and ceramic stone. Download file

According to these indicators, bricks made from many materials and using various technologies are suitable, but some of them cannot be used in conditions of high humidity.

Let's consider one example. The M100 grade means that the brick can withstand a load per square centimeter of at least 100 kg and not more than 125 kg. The surface area of ​​a standard brick is 25 cm x 12 cm = 300 cm2. One M100 brand brick is designed for a load of at least 30 tons.

We have given a calculation so that you can more clearly imagine what efforts bricks of various brands can withstand. Of course, these values ​​assume that the load is evenly distributed over the entire surface (bed), in practice this rarely happens due to the presence of air pockets in the masonry.

What types of bricks can be used for a plinth?

Name	Brief performance indicators
	Water absorption ≤ 12%, strength ≥ M100, frost resistance not less than F50. It is used most often, universal application. The front surface must be protected from the negative effects of precipitation.
	Water absorption ≤ 16%, strength ≥ M150, frost resistance not less than F50. it is used for plinths of light buildings without reinforced concrete floor slabs. The outer surface must be plastered with a cement-sand mortar or lined with durable materials. Afraid of mechanical damage.
	Water absorption ≤ 5%, strength ≥ M250, frost resistance not less than F100. In all technical parameters, it surpasses ceramic samples. It is recommended to use two or more bricks wide during the laying of the plinth as an external front row. The surface of the plinth of this option does not need to be additionally finished with various building materials. The disadvantage of clinker bricks is the high cost.

Now, having an idea about the requirements for the base and the technical parameters of the bricks, you can consciously choose specific materials and start laying the element.

Step-by-step instructions for laying the plinth

Step 1. Calculate the required amount depending on the width and height of the masonry. Take the data on the approximate number from the table.

How many bricks are needed per 1 m3 of basement.

Brick sizes	Quantity, parameters of seams are not taken into account	Quantity including seams
	512	394
	378	302
	242	200

If you work with bricks of non-standard sizes, you will have to independently calculate the volume of the base and divide it by the volume of one brick. The calculations do not represent anything complicated, there is no need to describe them.

Step 2 Check the horizontality of the foundation tape. If the foundation was made by responsible builders, then the deviation from the horizontal at the corners of the building will not exceed two centimeters, such a spread is easily eliminated without additional operations during the preparation of the base of the first row of the basement. It is necessary to check the horizontalness of the foundation using a water or laser level. Were there significant deviations? You have to straighten the tape.

1. Fasten straight rails in a vertical position at the corners of the foundation. The sizes are arbitrary, you do not need to take long ones.
2. Beat off the horizontal on one of them, transfer the value of the horizontal to the second rail.
3. Pull the rope along the marks, do not let it sag. Measure the distance between the rope and the foundation plane along the entire length of the tape. Thus, you can estimate the approximate amount of work and calculate the amount of materials.
4. If the irregularities exceed 2 centimeters, you will have to prepare a concrete mixture, the spread is smaller - you can use an ordinary cement-sand mortar. One condition - during the manufacture of the material, increase the amount of cement, it must be at least three parts per one part of sand.
5. Spread the finished solution on the surface of the foundation tape and align it with a stretched rope. Work can be done by eye, in the future the bricks of the basement will be set according to the level and all flaws will be eliminated.
6. It will take at least two weeks to harden. If the weather is very hot and dry, then the solution should be abundantly moistened with water at least three times a day.

Do not rush to immediately start laying the base, strictly adhere to the recommended technology.

Step 3 On a flat tape, lay two layers of roofing material to waterproof the bricks. This is very important, without waterproofing, the plinth will quickly collapse.

Step 4 You need to start laying with laying two corners. The technology depends on how many bricks are in a row in width. You can lay corners from one, one and a half, two, two and a half and three bricks. If you do not have experience in the production of such works, then practice. Lay bricks first without mortar, then work with mortar. Movements should become automatic, during training, constantly use control tools. Be sure to do the dressing, alternate the spoon and poke rows. There was an experience - put the corners directly on the foundation tape. The height of the corners is 5–7 bricks. For starters, the height is enough, so it is easier to control the correct laying and timely correct possible deviations in the position of the base.

Step 5. At the height of the first row of each corner, drive in carnations, pull the rope. Make sure that the rope lies exactly on the edges of the bricks. This completes the preparatory work for laying the corners of the basement, start working on straight sections.

Further work on the plinth is no different from work with the wall, the rows are constantly dressed. If you use clinker bricks for external surfaces, then use them only on the visible side.

Beginner mistakes

Prices for building levels

Building levels

The basement is a very important element of the structure and the only one that cannot be repaired. Even problems with the foundation can be solved, there are special technologies to strengthen it. True, this will take a lot of time and is expensive. If the base began to collapse due to incorrect calculations, then nothing can be fixed. We focus on this not in order to scare developers, but in order to force them to carefully follow all the recommendations of professionals and proven technologies over the years. We will try to answer a few questions that are often asked by novice masons.

Is it possible to lay a mortar with a thickness of more than one centimeter to level the base? Such a need arises most often on foundations made of reinforced concrete blocks. Only competent specialists under the guidance of an experienced foreman can properly lay foundations from such materials. He must constantly monitor the position of each block with a professional level. If the variation in height does not exceed 2-3 centimeters, then it can be eliminated with a solution. But be sure to use a metal reinforcing mesh, the wire diameter is at least 5 mm. No plastic materials can withstand the load on the plinth, they are only suitable for plastering walls.

Laying out the solution

Is it possible to use bricks made without firing for the plinth? It is possible, but undesirable, we have already discussed this issue above. But if you really need to put these bricks somewhere, then laying them is allowed only inside the basement, all sides should be covered with ceramic bricks. Accordingly, they can only be used on plinths with a width of at least two bricks, otherwise it is impossible to make the correct strapping and fulfill the described condition.

In what cases can you do without leveling the foundation tape with concrete mortar? This is a rather difficult technology, let's dwell on it in detail.

Prices for cement and mixture bases

Cement and mixture bases

1. The foreman at each corner of the foundation beats off (shoots off) the values ​​by which it is necessary to raise the upper plane of the base. These measurements are made with a level. For example, +12 cm is written on one corner of the foundation, +20 cm on the second, +15 cm on the third, etc. Such marks are made on all sections of the foundation on which floor slabs should lie, in these places the base should go to zero mark - the level of floor coverings. Of course, a large variation in the height of the foundation tape indicates that it was made by frank hacks.
2. Develop a preliminary plan for getting to the desired height. You need to start from the corners, then all the rows are aligned along them. Make a plan to solve the problem first. If, for example, you need to raise the height of the base by 15 cm in two rows, then this can only be done with the help of a solution. Lay about 2.5 cm on the foundation with the obligatory use of a metal reinforcing mesh, the upper beds of the bricks are equal to the net mass. There are cases when it is necessary to use bricks of different thicknesses, you will have to buy them additionally. It is forbidden to use bricks split with a hammer over the entire thickness for the base; they can only be cut on a special machine with a diamond blade and water cooling.
3. After all the corners are made taking into account the measurements, start laying the rows, while using a stretched rope to control the position. We must say right away that such works are complex, we do not recommend beginners to deal with them. It is better to invite a professional for a few days, he will lay out the corners, and it is already easier to work on them.

What are the types of plinths?

Depending on the position of the front surface in relation to the front wall, the plinth can be:

• speakers. It is used if it is necessary to increase the bearing performance of the base, the plane of the element protrudes several centimeters beyond the plane of the wall. The disadvantage is that special measures must be taken to drain rainwater coming from the walls;
• sinking. The facade wall hangs over the plinth. It is recommended to use in cases where the plinth is made of durable building materials that do not require finishing;
• in one plane. The facade wall and the plinth are located in one line. The option is rare, most often on irresponsible outbuildings. The finishing of the facade and the plinth is made with the same materials and using the same technology or is not done at all.

What should be the height of the plinth? There are no special requirements, it all depends on the presence and purpose of the basement and the horizontalness of the foundation tape. If the building does not have basements, and the tape is even, then there is no need to make a special base. As for the advice “at least 50-60-70” and so on centimeters, you should not pay attention to them. The final decision is made only taking into account the architectural features of the structure.

And the last. Do not forget to leave air in the plinths for natural ventilation. underground space. Unless, of course, the design of the house provides for their presence.

Video - Plinth masonry