How to feed tomatoes to quickly turn red and pour: recommendations. To make the tomatoes large and ripen faster, prepare top dressing What to do to ripen tomatoes

HIGH-YIELD TOMATO VARIETIES FOR GREENHOUSES: OVERVIEW OF GROUPS, HYBRIDS AND GROWING FEATURES Of the widest variety of tomato varieties offered to farmers and amateur vegetable growers, it is impossible to unequivocally recommend only one and ignore others, because the preferences of a particular person are subjective. And this is understandable: each of us has his own criteria for evaluating the grown tomato, but everyone always chooses the most productive tomatoes for greenhouses. In areas with different climates, the conditions for growing tomatoes (even in farm greenhouses) are different, therefore the most popular are the specified, zoned varieties that enjoy well-deserved attention from most gardeners. - Indeterminate varieties are ideal for greenhouses - vigorous bushes form into 1 stem. - Determinate tomatoes for greenhouses require constant pruning of shoots. Each hybrid is prone to one of these 2 types of development, so we need to correct the growth of plants in time, starting right from the seedlings. According to the type of growth, TOMATOES are divided into 2 GROUPS: - with vegetative, - with generative development. As a rule, well-known seed manufacturers give such starting information on the package: the main characteristics and individual characteristics of a particular variety. For low greenhouses for tomatoes with a standard (up to 2.5 m) ridge height, we will choose tall varieties of tomatoes with shortened internodes, while forming them into 2 stems. When the bushes grow to the trellis, there will already be 3 brushes on each shoot. We will release additional shoots on seedlings under the very first brush. Usually tall and large-fruited tomatoes show precisely the vegetative type of growth. We plant seedlings of hybrids and varieties with this vegetative type of development with the first two flowering brushes in order to prevent fattening of plants, which reduces the yield of tomatoes in the greenhouse. OVERVIEW OF GREENHOUSE VARIETIES ONLY MEDIUM AND HIGH YIELD VARIETIES 1. Intuition F1 - with 1 stalk and unlimited growth, a mid-season hybrid of cluster tomatoes: only 110 days pass from the first shoots to fruiting. Rounded, smooth fruits weighing over 100 g do not crumble even after ripening, do not crack, and their high sugar content is ideal for canning and fresh salads. 2. Kostroma F1 - a two-meter mid-early hybrid, already 106 after germination, we collect a friendly and plentiful crop of flat-round fruits weighing 150 g, and up to 5 kg per bush. This plant is resistant to viruses and changes in humidity and temperature. 3. Rosemary F1: 115 days after sprouting, large (400g), pink, smooth fruits ripen for delicious salads. Their pulp is juicy, tender, "melting" consistency. Productivity reaches 11 kg from 1 plant. 4. Chio-chio-san - with unlimited growth, a mid-season hybrid, hung with huge branched brushes, with 50 fruits on each. Pink, plum-shaped tomatoes weighing up to 40 g delight us with an excellent dessert taste and four kilograms of such fruits from a bush. The variety is not susceptible to tobacco mosaic disease. 5. Blagovest F1 - one and a half meter, early ripening hundred-day hybrid. One plant produces 5 kg of round fruits weighing over 100 g each. 6. Verlioka F1 - one and a half meter, early ripe stodnevka with round fruits up to 100 g each and 5 kg per bush. This tomato is great for canning and fresh salads. As the personal experience of gardeners proves, the most productive varieties of tomatoes for a greenhouse are numerous: their list can include dozens of other hybrids and varieties of tomatoes, even for one region. INTERESTING NEW VARIETIES 1. Siberian F1 - late-ripening, single-stemmed hybrid with unlimited growth yields up to 5 kg in 4.5 months. Its flat-round, smooth, fragrant tomatoes of a unique size - up to 2.8 kg, and their taste is harmonious, dessert. The plant is not susceptible to diseases of cladosporiosis, fusarium. 2. Ural F1: This indeterminate unlimited growth tomato for the Ural region will produce the first tasty, sweet salad tomatoes in as little as 4 months. Up to 25 flat-round fruits weighing 350 g grow on 1 bush. 3. Shaolin F1 - a plant of medium ripening: after 115 days, the first large (up to 400 g), pink, beautiful tomatoes, salad destination ripen on powerful low bushes. Their pulp is tender, juicy, as if melting, with an abundance of provitamin A. The average yield is 10 kg per plant. Kamchatka F1 - one and a half meter mid-season (110 days before fruiting) variety with attractive and tasty round fruits weighing up to 150 g, stored up to 2 months. The hybrid is resistant to all pathogens of viruses that are dangerous for these plants. All of these listed productive varieties of tomatoes for greenhouses have already been evaluated by experienced vegetable growers and are leaders in the sale of seeds, especially since they are not very demanding to care for. GREENHOUSE BRUSH TOMATOES (We collect their fruits with brushes, like grapes in clusters). This type is gaining well-deserved popularity. Breeders have successfully bred the following hybrids: Fatalist, Fanat, Vladimir and others. FEATURES: - A valuable feature of this species is high strength: we can transport the crop anywhere, but the tomatoes do not deteriorate or crack. - The fruits on the bunch are often the same size: 100 - 200 g. - Such bunched greenhouse tomatoes are absolutely resistant to the diseases characteristic of these plants, so we do not have to spend money on the purchase of various preventive chemicals. THE MOST POPULAR Of course, it is almost impossible to list all the high-yielding varieties of tomatoes for the greenhouse - after all, breeders delight us with their new achievements. Among them stand out especially De Barao red, as well as the Ivanhoe F1 Hybrid. It is believed that these varieties in the greenhouse give more than 20 kg of fruit from 1 bush. DE BARAO - For De Barao, the norm is 30 kg from 1 plant, and the record is 70 kg. - Even on open ground, this variety, under normal conditions and proper care, gives 10 kilograms from 1 bush in a hot summer. - Its smooth fruits are of medium size with a mass of 150 g and are very tasty fresh and canned. - However, the hybrid is very demanding on the microclimate and grows poorly on infertile, heavy clay or loamy soils. - Breeders pleased gardeners with original early types of tomatoes for greenhouses, which are not inferior in yield. But they have a different color, indicated in their very name: De Barao yellow, pink or black. SEMKO-SINDBAD F1 One of the most popular early-ripening hybrids was Semko-Sinbad F1. - In terms of early maturity, it is not inferior to the Hurricane variety, in which the first tomatoes turn red already on the 80th day from spitting seedlings. - The ovaries on the plant are also formed without additional measures. In its inflorescence there are 8 red fruits weighing up to 100 g at once with an average yield of about 10 kg per 1 sq. m. AIVENGO HYBRID F1 The new lettuce tomato surprises with its yield: the fruits on its brushes are like on a well-groomed bunch of grapes. - All tomatoes are bright red, and do not shrink near the top of the bush, providing an excellent harvest without the use of growth stimulants. - To taste, the fruits of this hybrid are much better than other greenhouse counterparts, and the bush itself is large, with powerful thick stems. - Ivanhoe, with its high yield, practically does not get sick and is resistant to fungi, tomato mosaic, nematode, verticillium. - Especially valuable for lovers of natural farming: it gives an excellent harvest without the use of chemicals. - And this variety actually has no shortcomings, only the price of its seeds is higher. Yes, and we will not close the tomatoes in ordinary jars - they are very large. ALGAMBRA Its excellent productivity is successfully combined with another advantage - the brushes do not refract. - Taste qualities of tomatoes are excellent. - This variety in heated greenhouses bears maximum fruit from April to January, forming ten-meter lashes. CARE OF HIGH YIELD TOMATOES We monitor the load of plants directly with fruits and adjust it in a timely manner, taking into account the characteristics of the variety. FEEDING 1. It is advisable to carry out agrotechnical regulation of the development of bushes only with their balanced nutrition. 2. Pay attention! Experience has shown that it is better to limit nitrogen before the first cluster of fruits is formed, especially in plants with vegetative development. 3. 1 week before planting seedlings in a garden greenhouse, stop feeding it, and after planting, we will do the first feeding in 2 weeks. 4. During the growing season, we regularly add, as the instructions recommend, phosphorus and potassium (wood ash is well suited for this purpose, and in order to simplify the process of plant nutrition, it is best to pour 2 large handfuls of ash into each hole immediately when planting seedlings), when flowering it is advisable to pour the same wood ash around each tomato bush (this will also help protect the plants from verticillium wilt). Further, when the fruits are tied on the first two brushes, it is necessary to apply nitrogen liquid top dressing for the active growth of the fruits. During this period, we feed with a solution of mullein or bird droppings, and an infusion of weeds with an EM preparation is also good. 5. With excessive vegetation, we do root dressing with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate. 6. With accelerated generative development, we will make 2 fertilizing with fermented weeds - this will accelerate the ripening of unexpectedly numerous fruits in cool weather. CARE OF SEEDS - Seedlings will appear in a week, and we will reduce the temperature to +18C. - Pour with warm settled water 1 time in 3 days. - To rid the sprouts of root rot, apply biological products. - When a real leaf appears, the seedlings are placed one at a time in plastic or peat pots. CARE OF PLANTS - We place seedlings in a row on the ground every 50 centimeters, and between their rows - 60 cm. - Pay attention! Seedlings of large-fruited tomatoes are placed in heated shelters 50 days after their germination, and in non-heated - in May. - We will add 0.5 kg of humus to the hole. - We will tie up the overgrown bushes with a trellis thrown over a 5 mm wire stretched along the rows. - Then we simply twist the trellis with our own hands as the bush grows, water it, and after flowering 2 times a month we feed it with ready-made balanced organic matter. - We will tie up large-fruited tomatoes - these high-yielding varieties need such support. - We regularly remove shoots from the leaf axil. - We collect the fruits brown, as their complete redness depletes the plant. CONCLUSION - Experienced gardeners are experimenting with several varieties of tomatoes at once, because there are high-yielding hybrids for a particular soil and area. - When choosing varieties, we take into account the characteristics of the greenhouse and growing conditions. - Traditional and tried greenhouse tomatoes are good, but new varieties are more hardy and productive with easy care. - We buy large packages of the selected variety and plant half of the seeds - if the result is successful, we sow the remaining seeds for the next year.

Experienced gardeners already in June begin to "puzzle" their brains on the subject of accelerating the ripening of tomatoes in a greenhouse or open field. After all, the Russian summer is short and people throw away bushes with unripe fruits after the first September rains (smoothly turning into frosts). Many gardeners use ripening as one of the ways to speed up the ripening of tomatoes.

Any of the methods of stimulating the ripening of tomatoes is suitable at their summer cottage for both greenhouse vegetables and those grown on open soil. By combining the techniques listed below, you can control the formation of fruits in tomatoes, accelerate their development and ripening. Processed tomatoes ripen a week and a half ahead of schedule. In addition, well-cared for tomatoes of simple varieties will be protected from blossom end rot as well as some hybrid counterparts.

Stepchildren at the tomato extra shoots

The larger (bigger) the bush, the longer the tomatoes will ripen. Lateral shoots draw off nutrients and interfere with the formation of the main clusters. Metabolic processes in a neglected plant proceed more slowly, and signs of late blight and vertex rot appear on its fruits (more details,). The pasynkovanny tomato develops quickly and gives a quality crop.

The first stripping of side shoots is carried out when transplanting seedlings into the ground on the site. Subsequent - as the bush overgrows, but at least once a week. The last pinching (especially in the conditions of the Middle Stripe) falls at the end of July. By this time, we cut off all the leaves and branches to the upper flower brush (or maybe you?). It is best to use scissors or secateurs. Moving from one vegetable to another, it is advisable to disinfect the blades in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. After pruning, a stump remains at the place of the escape. He will not let the bush start a new forcing.

Removed lashes and leaves should be collected in a bucket and disposed of, because they provoke infectious plant diseases. It is best to lay the tops in a compost pit (box) in the garden. In it, plant residues will turn into a natural substrate.

Pinching in cultivation

The fruits of the first brush (the earliest) are often subject to fasciation. This physiological disorder is associated with diurnal temperature fluctuations. As a result of a sharp change in weather, distorted tomato fruits are formed. Such tomatoes do not sing well and grow slowly. They are disposed of in order to accelerate the growth of others.

In the third decade of July, we remove small fruits, ovaries and inflorescences from grown vegetables. They do not ripen by the end of the summer season, but they absorb a lot of energy and top dressing. In late-ripening varieties (we read about), we cut off the tops.

The operation to remove neoplasms is called tweezing - pinching. It should be carried out with protective gloves, because the tops used to cause itching and inflammation. We pinch greenhouse tomatoes in the garden three weeks later than those growing in open soil. In heated greenhouses and greenhouses, we leave 10 lashes on the plant, in cold ones - 6. We collect the last crop after the first frost.

We arm ourselves with a needle

Abundant watering is necessary for young ovaries, but is harmful for already browned tomatoes. With a needle or toothpick, we make 3-4 longitudinal punctures on the stalk of the vegetable. Through holes will limit the flow of moisture and nutrients into the pulp. Over time, they will overgrow, but the vegetation will not resume. The tomato will stop growing and begin to ripen. The same effect can be achieved by breaking a branch with a bunch of green tomatoes. This method prevents the formation of rot and allows you to properly redistribute water and mineral resources.

We get iodine from the first-aid kit

Leaf and root baits with iodine also accelerate the ripening of tomatoes. We carry out the first treatment on the site during the period of budding of inflorescences, the second - in a couple of weeks. In order to prepare the composition, dilute 40 drops of pharmacy iodine in 10 liters of warm water. We fill the spray bottle (sprayer) with the solution and process the leaves. Or pour up to half a liter of solution under each plant.

Introduction to Vodka Injection Tomatoes

In a green tomato at the base of the stem, we inject a little ethanol (vodka) solution with a syringe. "Alcoholized", the crop ripens 16 days ahead of schedule. The vodka introduced into the peel is split and does not affect the taste and chemical composition of the product. In addition, the seeds of such tomatoes are absolutely healthy and can give good shoots next season.

We attach a ripe tomato to a green bunch of tomatoes

Ethylene activates the ripening process of tomatoes. A high concentration of ethylene ether is found in ripe fruits. Experienced gardeners familiar with such a system always put ripe tomatoes in boxes (boxes) for ripening (preferably in the dark, but, in extreme cases, can be covered with newspaper or a light cloth). As a result, the brown flesh of vegetables turns red in a couple of days. If you don't want to harvest ahead of time, place a ripe tomato in a clear plastic bag and place it over a bunch of brown fruits. The maturation period will be reduced by one and a half weeks. I want to note that this method is controversial, since vegetables must "breathe", which they do, releasing moisture, and in a confined space this is fraught. What we read about in the next paragraph.

We stop watering and feeding tomatoes

Entering a greenhouse or garden early in the morning, we will see how moisture accumulates on the leaves of plants. This process is called guttation. With it, the bushes themselves emit excess moisture. And the colder the night is, the more vegetables "cry" in the morning. At the end of summer, tomatoes took strength and filled with juice. They no longer need nutrients from the soil, and rare rains are enough to maintain the main vegetative processes in the stems.

Therefore, by continuing to water abundantly, remember that the tomatoes will get rid of excess water. At low night temperatures, this will lead to wilting of the bushes and curling of the leaves. In addition, in greenhouses with high humidity, fungal infections breed, destroying the crop.

Tighten the stems with wire

If we finally stopped watering, and the end of the season turned out to be rainy and cloudy, we are in a hurry to limit the flow of water to the stems. The easiest method is to pull the bush until the root system crackles. Damaged roots will not be able to saturate the plants with moisture and vegetables will stop "sweating" at night.

Another way is splitting the stem. You will need a knife and wood chips. Measure 12 cm from the base of the trunk, stick a knife into it and draw a ten-centimeter cut up. Insert a small spacer between the pieces. This will help speed up the ripening of the tomatoes. If the main stem of the bush is thin and it is not possible to cut it, we will carry out an annular winding. Why, at a height of four centimeters from the soil, we pull the trunk with copper wire.

In addition to the general ones, there are other systems of "work" with green fruits.

Special methods for accelerating the ripening of tomatoes (for open ground)

Let's consider them in more detail.

Orientation - in the sun

Tomatoes are heliophyte plants. We plant them on sunny plots of land at a sufficient (60-70 cm) distance. This distance provides the fruits with not only access to light, but also aeration (blowing). The latter prevents the tomato from rotting on the bush. In the second decade of July, we turn branches with large leaves towards the sun and install them on special spacers. Of course, this is a dreary business, but such orientation speeds up the metabolic processes in the stems and helps brown vegetables to ripen.

Drying the bush

Before the first frosts, we cut the plants from the open area at the root and dry them in a warm, ventilated room. To do this, tops with green tomatoes are hung upside down and small vegetables and ovaries are peeled off. Tomatoes ripened on the bush will be tastier and more nutritious than those that have been ripened in boxes or boxes.

We use copper-containing preparations when spraying a tomato

In August (different regions have very different dates this month), the first cold dew begins to fall. It cannot harm greenhouse plants, but bushes in the open field become ill with late blight. Sorry, I lied a little, do not forget about the high humidity (like ours) in July and beyond in some regions! Gray spots cover the fruits and tops, which leads to the death of vegetables. But you can wrest additional time from nature for the ripening of tomatoes. Why, from the beginning of July, it is worth starting treatment with HOM, as one of the most effective preparations containing copper, which destroys phytophthora in the bud. Or, at least, very constraining its development.

Many factors influence the ripening of tomatoes. These are heat-loving plants, they need sunlight. But it happens that the summer is not warm enough, there are heavy rains and in this case the tomatoes simply do not have time to ripen.

Summer residents are losing crops, despite all the efforts and time put into caring for tomatoes. As a result, some gardeners preserve green tomatoes, others simply pick off an unripe vegetable in the hope that the tomato will ripen in a warm room.

chapter 1. Why do tomatoes ripen poorly?

Not ripening tomatoes has many reasons. Plants require good and proper care, if you do not follow these rules, there is a chance of being left without a crop. Negative factors affecting the ripening of tomatoes:

• improper watering and pruning of the bush;
• lack or absence of trace elements;
• too dense planting;
• lack of sun and heat;
• improper or untimely feeding.

The timely ripening of a vegetable such as a tomato is affected by the location of the bushes in the garden. To speed up the ripening process, you need to understand how the fruit yield on one bush depends on the number of daughter shoots.

The presence of many daughter shoots on a tomato bush greatly reduces the ripening of the vegetable. Since the formed ovary requires nutrition and sunlight for its growth. Accordingly, if you do not watch over such shoots, the harvest will be reduced significantly, and the fruits themselves will significantly lose in size and taste.

chapter 2. Ways to accelerate the ripening of tomatoes

A few simple methods will help speed up ripening:

1. Getting rid of child shoots.
2. Clothespin plants.
3. Spraying the plant with a solution of iodine (35 drops per 10 liters of warm water).
4. Pull the fruit bush towards you, in this way the roots of the plant will tear and the fruits will receive all the necessary nutrients.
5. Use props. Set under the lower brushes and turn the plant towards the sun.
6. At night, at a low temperature, cover the tomatoes with a film.
7. More often loosen the ground 5-7 cm deep.
8. Use a pink solution of potassium permanganate for watering, no more than three days.

Ideally, the complete disposal of child shoots will help speed up the ripening of tomatoes. In this case, everything is warm, and the light of the sun will go to the fruits growing on the mother bush. The ripening period will be reduced.

Pinching the top of the bush will also help. That will limit the further development of shoots on the main bush. It is important to pinch correctly. The clothespin is made no lower than the third flowering tassel. In this case, the last brush allows the fruits to develop.

chapter 3. How to speed up ripening in a greenhouse

Unfortunately, tomatoes do not always have time to ripen in the garden. The main reason is the cold and rainy summer. Here, the cultivation of this heat-loving vegetable in greenhouse conditions comes to the aid of summer residents. But sometimes you need vegetables to ripen faster in a greenhouse.

Method 1. Pruning unnecessary growth.

The main goal of the method is to limit the growth of excess growth. To do this, we limit the height of the bush, that is, we make a clothespin of the upper part of the bush. The bush is freed from the growth, under the lower brush. The procedure is carried out when the fruits begin to fill with color, while they will receive the necessary nutrients directly.

Method 2. We limit the number of watering and fertilizing.

Plants, like all living things, are subject to the laws of nature. If you limit tomatoes in watering and top dressing, the growth rate of excess shoots will decrease significantly. The crop will begin to ripen faster.

Method 3. Puncture of tomatoes.

Select large vegetables and make a few shallow punctures in the stalk area. You can use a toothpick to puncture. At the same time, the tomatoes will turn red 7 days earlier, the puncture holes will disappear, the fruits will retain their taste.

Method 4. Surgical.

The method is very good if autumn has come ahead of time. It is necessary to make a through hole in the region of the root neck of the plant with a knife. Make a cut about 8 cm long. A wooden wedge is inserted into the resulting cut.

The thickness of the wedge should be no more than 4 mm. For a wedge, a regular match or pine chips will do. In this case, the plant gives all its strength to the ripening of fruits.

Method 5. Banding.

Ringing will also help to keep up faster. For this, a thin copper wire is taken and a ring is made around the fruits in the greenhouse. The ring is made no higher than 3 cm from the soil. It is important not to overdo it here, because if you apply great force, you can simply cut off a tomato bush.

Ripening is faster due to the nutrients that go directly to the fruits, and do not go into the roots of the plant. Vegetables accumulate carbohydrates, acquire a sweetish taste. As a result, the quality of fruits in the greenhouse is significantly improved.

chapter 4. Ripening tomatoes at home

The process of ripening tomato fruits at home is called ripening. This method has its advantages. The taste qualities of fruits plucked green or just beginning to sing compare favorably with the taste of tomatoes ripening on a bush.

Section 1. Ripening methods

1. Healthy fruits with a stalk are selected. Tomatoes are placed in a box in several layers. Lay a layer of tomatoes, then cover with paper or shavings. And so 2-3 layers. Boxes with tomatoes are placed in a dark place, this will prevent the appearance of rot.

The temperature in the room should not exceed 15 degrees, and humidity 85%. The ripening period lasts 30-40 days. The fruits ripen faster, which is larger, then small. If you add some ripe fruits to the box, the ripening process will accelerate.

2. The method requires pulling out the bushes along with the fruits from the soil and hanging them upside down in the room.

3. In this case, the tomatoes are dug together with the ground and placed in boxes. Watering is done once every 7-10 days. Harvest tomatoes as they ripen.

4. A method when the bushes are cut together with unripe vegetables and stacked in the middle of a stack, 60-80 cm high. From above, the bushes are covered with straw to darken. The ripeness of the fruit is checked every 5-6 days. The ripened crop is harvested, the rest is also covered and left to sing.

Chapter 5. Video

CARE
“If you want to grow it, feed it,” that’s my rule. I start feeding 2 weeks after planting tomato seedlings.
Top dressing is repeated every 2 weeks until mid-August.

So that the fruits of the tomato are larger and ripen faster.

In order for tomatoes to have larger fruits and ripen a few days earlier, I prepare such a “drink” for them - I add 3-4 drops of iodine to 10 liters of water.
I water under the root once a week, spending up to 2 liters per plant.

Still cooking for tomato good feed.

The recipe is this:
I fill a barrel (200l) 1/3 with nettles and dandelion leaves.
I add a bucket of manure (mullein or rabbit) there and fill it to the top with water.
To ferment faster, I cover the barrel with a film.
After 10 days, top dressing is ready.
It remains only to remove the pop-up contents and add a bag of "Humate + 7".
I dilute the resulting infusion with water (1:10) and water the tomatoes at the rate of 3-4 liters per 1 sq.m.
Sometimes I alternate this top dressing with a solution of mullein.

I put the mullein in a bucket (up to half), then fill it to the top with water and insist 5-6 days. I take the infusion in the proportion of 1 liter per 10 liters of water.

This amount is enough for about 10 holes (20 plants).

More feed:

Add to 10 liters of water
20 drops of iodine and a liter of whey obtained from heated cottage cheese.
Such a solution destroys microbes well, and also accelerates the ripening of tomatoes.
It is important not to overfeed the plants. And, of course, you can not bring fresh manure under the bushes.

I grow tomatoes in two or three stems, for which I leave one or two stepsons, which, as they grow, I pin to the ground and sprinkle with humus. The rooted stepson contributes to the additional nutrition of the plant.

I use a couple of proven methods..

I insist 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate in a glass of warm water for two days.
I pour this infusion into a bucket of water and spray the plants over the leaves.
The leaves darken, photosynthesis increases, fruit ripening accelerates.
Instead of superphosphate, you can use vitriol -
1 st. spoon on a bucket of water. The result is the same, plus protection against late blight.
When the tomatoes begin to bloom, take the time to feed them foliarly: 1 g of boric acid, 2-3 crystals of sodium humate, the same amount of potassium permanganate, a spoonful of urea per bucket of water. Thoroughly spray the leaves with this solution, and most importantly, the flower brushes.

To improve setting on dry, hot days, lightly shake the flowering bushes so that the pollen rises in a light cloud.

And this surgical tips for accelerated ripening of tomatoes.

Here I will try to collect various tips and recommendations on how to speed up the ripening of a tomato in an open field.
Although I think these tips are also suitable for greenhouse conditions for growing tomatoes.

Several ways to speed up the ripening of tomatoes

Another not quite traditional way to speed up the ripening of a tomato.

Somehow, in our southern latitudes, a cool summer fell, it was cool at night and the tomatoes did not ripen in any way. Although they were already quite large and were already starting to blush a little.
Besides a few fruits, a few tomatoes were already bright red. This interested me, and upon closer inspection of the ripe tomatoes, it turned out that they were slightly pecked by chickens ...

The chickens pecked them once, apparently they didn’t like the taste and they didn’t touch them anymore, but these fruits ripened the fastest!

And I decided to conduct an experiment.

I chose the largest tomatoes, and pierced them with a toothpick near the stem in several places
I pierced not very deep, half the length of a toothpick.
I did not subject all the tomatoes to such an experiment - most of them, but left several of the same large ones to compare the effect.

The difference in maturation was significant!
Tomatoes pierced with a toothpick ripened almost a week faster, they literally gained color and taste before our eyes. In terms of taste, they did not suffer at all, and the holes from the toothpicks were simply weathered and were not particularly noticeable.

Now, every year, before ripening tomatoes, when they are already large enough, I make a couple of kilograms of early-ripening tomatoes, and then the rest of the crop is pulled up. :)
And we always try our harvest a couple of weeks earlier than our neighbors!

And here are more surgical ways to accelerate the ripening of a tomato.

To speed up the ripening of tomatoes, you can apply several tricks developed by folk practice.
Namely, near the root neck of plants, it is necessary to make a through slit 7-10 centimeters long with a very sharp knife, scalpel or blade and insert a wooden hairpin 4-5 millimeters thick into the resulting split of the stem, which is best made from a match or a piece of dry pine stick.
Such a spacer forces the plant to direct all its forces to the successful rearing of the fetus, that is, the future offspring, and not the vegetative mass that is useless for future generations of the tomato family.
After all, the meaning of the life of every green creature is the same:
to prosper, to give offspring, and only then can one die.
Acting according to this immutable law of nature, after the operation, the tomatoes ripen faster than usual for a whole week, which is especially important for late varieties with early autumn.
Reduces the time of fruit ripening up to a decade and ringing of plants.

With a thin copper wire at a height of 2.5-3 centimeters from the soil surface, we make a dense ring, tightening it around the trunk.
In this case, of course, you need to be careful and not cut the trunk completely.
With such an operation, the downward current decreases - the accumulated stock of photosynthesis products in the leaves is almost completely used by the fruits, since the path to the roots is blocked, due to which the crop ripens faster.
Yes, and its quality increases, as the influx of water, which is no longer so necessary at that period of plant life, decreases, more carbohydrates accumulate. The fruits become sweeter, they have more dry matter.