Connecting the LED strip. Touch switches: varieties, device, circuits How to connect a touch switch to an LED strip

Niches, shelves, decor items using LED strip, we have to remember that we have 220 V in the network, and not 12 or 24 volts, as is necessary for this backlight. We will talk further about how to connect an LED strip to 220 V.

Depending on the number of LEDs in the tape, they require 12 or 24 V power. But in an ordinary apartment or house there is no such power supply, but there is usually a single-phase network. Connection is possible using two options:

Since tapes with a direct connection to 220 V do not need special means, we will continue to talk about connecting those that need reduced voltage.

Schemes for one tape

The LED strip usually comes in a piece 5 meters long. If this length is enough for you, great. Just take a 220/12 V or 220/24 V converter. Connect a power cord with a plug to the input, and a tape to the output. In this case, the connection diagram looks (figure below) as a serial connection (one by one) of all elements.

Observe polarity when connecting. Plus to plus, minus to minus. These designations (plus and minus, are both on the power supply and on the tape. Do not confuse, otherwise it will not work. To connect one tape, you can take copper wires in a protective sheath (for example, twisted pair), with a cross section of 1.5 mm².

If the length must be more than 5 meters (2, 3 tapes or more)

Often, to illuminate the ceiling or other objects, an LED strip with a length of more than 5 meters is required. It can be 10, 15 or 20 meters, that is, you need to connect two or more tapes. They cannot be connected in series (one after the other). The LEDs closest to the power supply will carry more current, causing them to overheat. They will quickly lose their brightness, and then they will stop burning altogether. In this case, you need to connect the LED strip to 220 V in parallel: stretch the wire from the power supply to one and the other.

If physically one tape should be behind another, we simply pull a long wire from the power supply. Please note: its cross section is 1.5 mm². If you need to connect three or four tapes, we also connect them to the output of the power supply with a separate pair of wires.

With this connection, all tapes will glow the same way. Just be careful: you need to choose an adapter that delivers the desired voltage of 12/24 V with enough current to power all the tapes (how to calculate the required power is a little lower).

This method is good for everyone, except that powerful power supplies are larger, heavier and much more expensive. Weight and dimensions are a problem if you are lighting the ceiling. After all, you need to figure out where to install this equipment, which is far from always easy. And yes, the price is also important. Therefore, it is worth considering the option with two adapters of lower performance.

The diagram shows the connection of two tapes to two adapters. If you need to connect three tapes, it is not necessary to use three adapters. One may be more powerful, it can power two tapes (parallel connection, as in the figure above).

How to power powerful tapes

However, if high power LED strips (from 14 W / m or more) are connected to 220 V according to this scheme, a noticeable voltage drop occurs on each of the LEDs, as a result, the far edge of the tape glows much weaker. If a multi-color RGB tape is connected according to this scheme, it may shine in the wrong colors. To get rid of this phenomenon, each tape is connected to a power source from two sides.

With this method, the wire consumption increases, but the LEDs glow more evenly. It has been observed from experience that this connection method also increases the life of the LEDs - they degrade more slowly. This solution is not mandatory, but it really extends the life and evens out the uneven glow.

Connecting a color RGB tape

The connection principle remains the same. A controller is added to the circuit (it is also called a dimmer), with the help of which the color of the LED glow changes. Another difference is in the number of wires. After the controller, there are not two, but four. Otherwise, there are no differences.

As you can see, both on the controller and on the tape, there are designations 12B / V + - this is a phase wire, R - for connecting red LEDs, G - green, B - blue. In order not to get confused, it is better to use wires of the same colors. Everything will be easier to follow, there will be less chance of getting confused.

If you need to connect several colored ribbons, they are also connected in parallel. Parallels start from the controller outputs (two wires are connected to the output terminals). With this connection, both tapes will change the glow at the same time.

The power of the controller (dimmer) is not always enough to control all the tapes. In this case, an amplifier is used. The diagram becomes more complex, but it indicates the connectors to which the wires must be connected, which greatly simplifies its assembly. Please note that in the figure the connection of the tapes is indicated by four lines, and the power to the inputs of the amplifiers is two, and this power is taken from the outputs of the adapters.

As many tapes are connected to the dimmer (controller) as it can power. In the figure, this is only one tape 5 meters long, therefore, for each subsequent one, its own amplifier is used. In fact, two tapes are “hung” on one controller. The main thing is that he can control them (the characteristics of the controller indicate the length of the tape that can be connected to it).

Also note that the controller and one amplifier are powered from one adapter, the other two amplifiers from the other. This is also not required. If the power of the power supply is sufficient to power all devices (tapes, dimmer, amplifiers), then power will be supplied from only one converter. Another thing is that such a power source costs a lot, and it heats up and makes a lot of noise. Therefore, it is indeed better to implement separate power supply by two less powerful units.

Choice of performance adapters

There are technical data in the description of each tape. It must indicate the voltage that must be applied (12 or 24 V) and the current consumed. That's just the current is usually indicated for 1 meter of tape. If you connect 5 meters, respectively, you will need to multiply this figure by 5. If you connect 10 meters to this power supply, multiply by 10, etc.

If you are still figuring out how much the backlight will cost you and there are no tapes yet or you have not chosen yet, you can use the average data. The current consumption of the most common type of monochrome tapes is shown in the table. They can be taken as an example.

The resulting figure is the minimum value of the current strength that the desired power supply should produce. But constant work at the limit of possibilities greatly reduces the service life of electrical products. Therefore, we add 20-25% of the stock to the figure found (we multiply by 1.2 or 1.25), we round the resulting figure up to a whole number. This will be the current that the adapter should give out.

To make it clearer, let's take an example. Let a meter of tape consume 0.8 A, we will connect 18 meters to the adapter. We are looking for the total current consumption: 0.8 A * 18 = 14.4 A. We add a margin: 14.4 A * 1.2 = 17.28 A. So, we will look for an adapter that will deliver at least 17 Amperes.

In the case of colored RGB LED strips, the current found is added to the found figure, which is necessary for the controller (dimmer) and amplifiers (if they are powered from this source). This data is in the technical description of the devices.

Circuit assembly process

In order to connect the LED strip to 220 V, you will need the LED strips themselves, a power supply, a controller (if needed) wires of the required colors and length. The wires are preferably stranded copper (they are softer, but harder to solder) or from a single wire. Take colored wires, so it will be easier to correctly connect the LED strip to 220 V.

You will also need the following tools:

• scissors;
• heat-shrink tubing;
• soldering iron with rosin and tin ().

Scissors are needed if you need to cut a piece from the LED strip reel. You can only cut in certain places. On the tape, they are indicated by a vertical line, next to which is usually a schematic image of scissors. Another distinguishing feature is the solder pads, which are located on both sides of the cut line.

Next, we take the wires, we clean their ends from insulation (2-3 mm), we play. and the prepared wire we put on a piece of heat shrink tubing of such a size that it is put on the tape in its original state. Next, with cotton dipped in alcohol, we clean the contact pads, tin them (we lower the heated soldering iron into rosin, warm up the pad for a couple of seconds. It should be covered with a thin layer of tin. We solder the wires to the prepared pads. Be careful and do not take a lot of tin when soldering. The pads are located very close, having planted a blot of tin, it is easy to connect them (especially in colored ribbons).

After all the wires are soldered, we lower the heat shrink tube so that it closes all the contacts, we warm it up. Shriveling, it will close all contacts well. In general, it is better to carry out this operation after checking the operability of the circuit. If everything burns, glows, you can isolate.

After soldering the wires to the tape, we connect them to the output of the adapter or controller. Everything is simple here. There is a clamping screw and contact plates. We loosen the screw, fill the bare wire (3-4 mm) between the plates, tighten the screw. We slightly pull the wire a couple of times, checking the contact - if it holds, then everything is fine.

To perform elementary electrical work, it is not necessary to call the master. Knowing how to connect the LED switch, you can independently install it. Agree, this skill is especially useful if you have to overhaul and update the wiring.

We will talk about the connection diagram, installation method and the difficulties that may arise during installation. You can also improve a conventional switch with your own hands by making a backlight in it.

We will describe the design of the LED switch using the example of a two-key device with backlight.

The mechanism consists of the following elements:

• one input, two output terminals;
• current limiting resistor;
• moving contacts.

The design also includes a case, a decorative panel and overlays-keys.

Some illuminated switch models have a pre-wired illumination mechanism. They also produce models in which the backlight conductors must be connected to the terminals on their own.

When the contacts of the LED switch are opened, the current flowing through the phase wire flows to the resistor, then to the LED or neon lamp. Further, the voltage passes through the lighting device and exits through zero.

Since the backlight is connected through a current-limiting resistor, the voltage in the network drops and it is enough for backlighting, but not enough for the chandelier to work.

This is how the LED switch works. If the lighting lamp burns out or is unscrewed, the circuit will be open and the backlight in the device will not work (+)

After closing the contacts of the switch, the current, which always moves along the circuit with the least resistance, passes through the network that feeds the lighting lamp - in this circuit, the voltage is practically zero. The current also flows to the backlight circuit, but it is so small that it is not enough even to operate a neon lamp.

The circuit includes a current-limiting resistor and an LED or neon lamp. Otherwise, the design and connection method are the same as those of a conventional device (+)

Application of LED switch

A switch equipped with a backlight is installed where it is dark even in the daytime, and the constant use of a lighting device is impractical. It is also used in rooms, access to which is necessary at night.

A switch with LED backlight, just like a conventional one, can be one-piece or consist of one, two or more keys

The more light sources, the more keys on the switch will be required. To control lighting, consisting of more than three lighting fixtures, dial switches are used, which are installed in one row.

To control lighting from several places, they purchase a special one with backlight.

How to choose an LED switch

When buying an LED switch, there is no need to chase expensive ceramic devices, since the power consumption of lighting devices is generally not very large.

In domestic use, it will be enough to use a high-quality plastic LED switch with a reliable contact group. The resource of such devices is about 40,000 switchings.

For hotel rooms, illuminated switches are used, which are controlled using a key card. They can be with or without a trip delay.

They also make a choice based on the design of the device, the type of inclusion - they produce keyboards and rotary, push-button, touch and cord.

According to the method of installation, internal and external devices are distinguished. The case material can also be different - plastic, glass, copper, stainless steel are used, and slate, gilding and even leather are used as a decorative coating.

But what you really need to pay attention to is - it indicates the possibility of using the equipment in certain conditions.

For example:

1. IP class from 20 indicates that the device is poorly protected from dust and moisture. Such equipment is used in residential premises.
2. Class IP 45 and above used to mark switches suitable for connection in rooms with high humidity - baths, baths, kitchens, toilets, etc.
3. Class with IP from 65 means that the switch can be used outdoors. Such electrical equipment has increased protection against dust, moisture ingress. It is installed outside the building - under the porch, canopy, on covered verandas. It has more massive keys, and a rubber seal at the point of entry of the electrical wire.

The higher the class, the more protected the device from external factors. This applies not only to switches, but also sockets, toggle switches, and other electrical equipment.

How to properly install

The backlit switch mechanism involves a small lamp that glows when it is turned off. A small neon lamp or LED can be used to illuminate the device along with a resistance element. There are wires running from the backlight that must be connected to power during installation.

Preparing for Installation and Mandatory Safety Precautions

Without basic knowledge of safety precautions, it is better not to start working with electrical equipment at all. Illiterate wiring can lead to electric shock, failure of electrical appliances, and fire.

Basic rules of conduct when working with electricity:

• all work must be carried out in a de-energized network;
• it is unacceptable to overload the power grid;
• for compliance with the connected network;
• it is better to replace the damaged section of the network, rather than repair it;
• do not touch the connected equipment with wet hands.

To determine the nature of the conductors - where is zero, and where is the phase - an ordinary screwdriver-indicator or a multimeter will help. The indicator is sufficient if the electrical network is single-phase. A multimeter is used to analyze a three-phase network.

Bringing one of the tentacles of the multimeter to the phase, the other is fixed on any of the conductors. Set the range for AC 220 watts. Zero on contact will show a value of about 220 W, ground is always lower

Installation example for a 2-gang illuminated switch

The main structural differences of LED switches are in the backlight mechanism. It may be ready to use and does not require any action to connect it. In another type of design, it is necessary to connect the wires that power the LED or neon lamp.

Let's consider a more complicated option - how to connect a backlit device, in which the conductors must be connected independently.

A design feature that has free access to the backlight wires can come in handy if you need to turn it off

First of all, pry off the keys with a screwdriver or other suitable tool and remove them. Separate the core (internal mechanism) from the body.

If the indicator lights up, it means it is on. In this state, turn it so that the keys with the pressed side are on top.

For an ordinary indicator screwdriver to work, you need to hold it correctly - the metal part should touch the contact plate, and the thumb should touch the top

One of the wires coming from the indicator is connected to the input terminal, and the second is connected to the key contact. If there are several keys, then the wire is connected to the first of them, starting from the left. Simultaneously with the wire going from the indicator to the input terminal, the phase conductor is also connected.

The two outgoing phase wires that go to the chandelier are connected to the output terminals simultaneously with the second backlight wire, making sure that it does not fall out of contact.

With this connection method, the backlight will turn on after opening the contacts using the first key. The second one will have no effect on turning off the backlight, and the light will be on even when the light is on.

To make the indicator light go out when you press any of the keys, you need to make a jumper yourself, which will connect the indicator to both keys.

If you do not take into account the connection of the backlight, the installation takes place as in a conventional device. A phase conductor is led through the switch and connected to the input terminal L, leading it into the hole and screwing it on.

Further, two outgoing phase wires are connected to the contacts of the device L1 and L2, which also lead to the chandelier through the junction box. One of them is connected to one lamp, the other to the other two. Zero passes through the soldering unit in the mounting box, then goes to all the lamps of the chandelier, closing the contact.

As a result of correct connection, the first key will turn on one lamp, the second two, and the two included keys will activate the entire lighting device. In the off state, the LED (+) should be lit

Why do energy saving lamps flash?

The LED switch is incompatible with operation. A device conflict manifests itself in a short flash of the lamp in the off state or in the so-called glow mode, when the lamp does not turn off completely, but barely glows.

The service life of an LED or energy-saving lamp in the wrong mode is significantly reduced and ranges from one to two months

This happens because inside the fluorescent lamp there is an electronic converter (capacitor), which gradually recharges from the current passing through the backlight, flashes.

A similar phenomenon occurs with LED strip power supplies, which also have a capacitor, and which is powered by a small current coming from a backlit switch.

Manufacturers of energy-saving lamps indicate that the use of their products is not compatible with the use of LED switches and dimmers.

You can get around this limitation if you control the operation of the lighting device using a relay. From the switch, the command first goes to the relay, which already directly controls the lighting.

The relay is produced by many manufacturers of electrical goods: Schneider Electric, ABB, Siemens. You can place it under the cap of the chandelier, behind the cornice, in which the LED ruler is installed.

You can apply another solution to the problem - turn off the neon lamp or LED from the power supply. This can be done by disconnecting the backlight wires from the terminals. But then the LED switch will lose its advantages.

Consider solutions that still allow you to combine lighting and the use of energy-saving lamps.

How to combine lamps and a switch

If the fluorescent lamp flickers or glows faintly after turning it off, the problem can be solved by connecting an additional resistance (resistor or capacitor) in parallel with the lighting point.

To do this, you need a resistor with a nominal value of 50 kOhm and a power of 2 watts. It will absorb excess current when the backlight is on and will not allow the lamp capacitor to charge.

The resistor is placed in a junction box in a ceiling lamp or chandelier cartridge, having previously connected it to two wires and insulating the bare areas. Heat shrink tubing can be used for insulation (+)

This method of eliminating the cause of flashing energy-saving lamps is considered quite dangerous and experienced electricians do not recommend using it without sufficient skills in electrical work.

It is better to use a ready-made protection unit for fluorescent and LED lamps, which eliminates flicker, protects against power surges, and eliminates interference from lamps. Its connection is mandatory if a lighted switch is used.

The protective unit is connected in parallel with lamps that do not work correctly - flicker or dimly glow when turned off. Install it in the body of the lamp or in the glass of the chandelier.

Solutions to popular problems and malfunctions of LED lamps are detailed in these articles:

DIY illuminated switch

During the operation of electrical equipment, it sometimes turns out that in some of the rooms it would be nice to have a switch backlight. To do this, it is not necessary to buy a device - you can independently improve the old one.

What is needed for this:

• conventional switch;
• LED with any characteristics;
• 470 kΩ resistor;
• diode 0.25 W;
• the wire;
• soldering iron;
• drill.

Using a soldering iron, begin to assemble the circuit. The cathode of the diode (marked with a black stripe) is connected to the anode of the LED (the anode has a longer leg). The resistor is soldered to the positive terminal of the LED and to the wire that will serve as the connection to the switch. The second wire is connected to the cathode of the LED.

If there is no suitable power resistor at hand or there is not enough space to place it, then it can be replaced with two lower power resistors by connecting them in series (+)

Next, connect everything to the on-off mechanism. The phase conductor that leads to the lamp is connected to the terminal along with one of the wires leading to the LED. The other wire is connected to the input terminal along with the phase wire, which supplies current from the mains.

It is necessary to carefully insulate the exposed sections of the wire and prevent the conductors from touching the case, this is especially important to do if it is metal.

They check the connection diagram of the backlit switch for operability as follows: the key, closing the contact, causes the chandelier or lamp to light up, when the LED lamp lights up when it is off. If the circuit is working correctly, you can install the fixture in the case.

The switch can be illuminated with a neon lamp. The circuit uses a HG1 gas discharge lamp and any type of resistance with a nominal value of 0.5-1.0 MΩ with a power of more than 0.25 W (+)

Switch with on indicator

Switches with indicators differ from LEDs in a completely different principle of use - the lamp in them lights up when the lighting is on. The main purpose of the control lamp is to signal the switched on lighting in the basement, in the attic, in the pantry or on the street.

Used to control power consumption. The indicator can be set for each of the keys or only for one of them.

The circuit for connecting and operating a switch with a backlight function is built according to the following principle. The control lamp is connected in parallel to the switch terminals. When the circuit is closed, current flows through the indicator and the light fixture - both light up. If the switch is off, no current flows to either the indicator or the lamp.

Hello, dear readers and guests of the Electrician's Notes website.

In one of my articles, I told you about, controlled, both manually and from the control panel.

But today I would like to draw your attention to the touch switch VL-C701R of the Classic series from Livolo with similar functions. True, this switch has its own characteristics and advantages over the same Sapphire-2503, which I will tell you about in this article.

The very first thing that catches your eye is a nice appearance with a glass transparent panel. This, in principle, has become a fundamental aspect when choosing this switch.

The fact is that a place has been prepared on the kitchen apron for installing a switch, with which one of the kitchen lighting groups will be controlled. Sockets for kitchen appliances will also be placed there.

The apron in the kitchen is planned to be made of glass, so when choosing a switch, I wanted to find something with an original and interesting design.

And then, on the Internet, I came across a review of the touch switch from Livolo. So I decided to buy it, and why not ?! At the same time, I will share information with you, all of a sudden you also decide to install something from this product for yourself ?!

To begin with, I purchased one touch switch VL-C701R of the Classic series in order to check its declared functions and characteristics on it, because the switch is made in China, and here, as you all know, various kinds of surprises can be expected.

So let's go.

I ordered the VL-C701R Classic series switch in the Livolo online store (rulivolo.ru). Its cost at the time of publication of the article was about 1130 rubles. The prices on the Aliexpress site are similar, which is why I decided to order here. You can check it yourself! Of the advantages, I would note the following: a Russian-language description of the goods and support when ordering, as well as relatively fast delivery, which in my case took a little more than a week. From China (Aliexpress) would have to wait much longer.

Decryption:

• VL is the brand name for Livolo
• C7 - series (more modernized)
• 01 — number of controlled lines (one)
• R - radio-controlled (with remote control)

Specifications:

• operating voltage from 110 to 250 (V) frequency 50-60 (Hz)
• maximum power not more than 1000 (W)
• maximum load current no more than 5 (A)
• number of switches - 100 thousand.
• degree of protection of the housing IP20 (read about)
• operating temperature from -30°С to +70°С

Overall dimensions: 80x80x40 (mm).

I received the switch in such a cardboard box, in which two packages were placed at once.

One package contained a VL-C701R touch light switch with a VL-RMT-02 remote control and an instruction manual (in English), and the other package contained a glass panel.

Why is this switch so interesting?

As I said, this is his appearance. There are no comrades in taste and color, but I personally like it. Compared to the same Sapphire-2503, it looks much more interesting and prettier.

According to the color scheme, the background of the glass panel of the switch can be ordered at your discretion, although the choice is not particularly huge - there are only 2 colors: black and white.

With the VL-C701R touch light switch, you can control almost all types of lamps - these are incandescent lamps, halogen lamps, both at 220 (V) and through, CFL compact fluorescent lamps, fluorescent fluorescent lamps, and LED strips.

True, there is one caveat that applies to LED and fluorescent lamps, as well as LED strips. If their power will be from 3 to 18 (W), then the listed lamps in the off position of the switch may still flash. This, for example, the manufacturer recommends in this case to install a resistor with a nominal value of 33 (kΩ) with a power of 10 (W) in parallel with the lamp.

The VL-C701R touch switch can be used not only to control lighting - with the same success, other loads can be connected to the output contacts, for example, a blind or gate drive, a fan, a heater, solenoid valves for watering and other various devices. Naturally, if the connected load exceeds the power of the output contacts of the switch, then a contactor will need to be added to the circuit. Read some of my articles about contactors:

Externally, the assembly of the switch looks quite neat and of high quality. On the reverse side, the housing of the VL-C701R touch switch is made of heat-resistant plastic with brass terminals for connecting wires and cables.

Connecting the touch switch VL-C701R

The VL-C701R touch switch is connected according to the standard scheme, as or.

There is no need to lay any additional conductors of wires and cables (some touch switches require a separate 220 V power supply) - the VL-C701R touch light switch is installed instead of a conventional single-key switch or dimmer. Here is the wiring diagram for the VL-C701R touch switch from Livolo.

We connect the incoming phase from the junction box to the L (In) terminal (in the diagram, the red wire), and to the L1 (Load) terminal - the switching phase (in the diagram, the orange wire), which will already go to the lamp or group of lamps.

Initially, I planned to install a touch switch on the kitchen apron, but as practice has shown, this is not possible - I will talk about the reasons below. Therefore, as an example, I will show the installation of a switch to control the lighting in the bathroom.

The bathroom had to be installed: one key to control the lighting, and the other -. But so far there is no fan available, so I will connect only the lighting group to the switch. In the future, perhaps, I will connect the fan control to the same group, because it still comes with a timer.

The white core is the L phase, the blue one is N zero, and the yellow-green one is the PE protective conductor.

Now it remains for us to connect the incoming phase from the apartment switchboard to the L (In) terminal, and connect the switching phase of the outgoing cable to the group of lamps to the L1 (Load) terminal. I connected the zeros and protective conductors PE to each other, respectively, in the same place in the socket using.

I carefully laid the wires in the socket and proceed to install the switch. The Hegel KU1201 socket boxes used have a depth of 45 (mm), so installing a 33 (mm) deep switch there and laying all the wires is somewhat problematic. If possible, use deeper sockets.

The switch is mounted in a standard-sized socket box exclusively on mounting screws (included in the kit), it does not have any expanding legs. So keep this in mind if you still have old Soviet metal sockets installed. Although it is not so long and laborious to replace them with modern ones. Here are some articles on these topics:

After installing the base of the switch, we attach a glass panel to it - it rests solely on the latches. Ready.

And this is how the switch protrudes from the wall - not very much and even less than ordinary switches.

But what if you plan to install several of these switches in a row?!

Let's count! The standard distance between the centers of the socket boxes is 71 (mm). The overall dimension of the glass panel of the touch switch is 80 (mm). Thus, from the center to the edge of the glass panel will be 40 (mm), which will protrude 6 (mm) beyond the edge of our socket, which has a diameter of 68 (mm). The nearby switch can no longer be installed, because. their edges will overlap. And this means that in this case it will not work to install such switches in one row.

The next way out of the situation is to increase the distance between the sockets in advance, i.e. instead of the standard 71 (mm) make it 80 (mm). Here is such a nuance.

Operation of the touch light switch

We touch the outlined circle with a finger (or foot) and the switch turns on, when touched again, it turns off. An electromagnetic relay is built inside the switch, which is slightly audible when switching.

The backlight of the switch is also not intrusive and pleasant for the eyes, which is clearly visible in the dark or in dimly lit places. When the switch is on, the switch is highlighted in red, and when it is off, it is blue, although it is difficult to determine during the day whether the switch is on or not.

I would like to note the following feature of the switch. If suddenly for some reason your power line is turned off, the switch automatically switches to the “off” position.

Setting up the remote control

Remote control of the circuit breaker is carried out using a separate control panel (VL-RMT-02), or rather even a key fob, which is included in the standard delivery set.

The remote control is small and compact 40x25x15 (mm) with the ability to program several of these switches. It has a metal front panel, and its buttons are protected by an opening protective plastic shutter.

The remote control operates at a frequency of 433.92 (MHz) from a 27A / 12 (V) battery, which, unfortunately, is not included in the package, so I had to buy it separately. Keep this in mind.

To configure the remote control, you must press and hold the sensor button on the switch until it beeps - in time it is about 5 seconds.

Then you need to press any of the three (A, B or C) buttons on the remote control (I will take button B for example) until a repeated single beep appears.

Ready. With such a simple and uncomplicated action, we paired the touch switch and button B on the control panel.

Button D cannot be programmed. because its function is initially programmed to turn off all three switches (sensors) programmed to the buttons of this remote control.

If you want to untie the control panel from the switch, then follow the same steps. Only when you press the button on the control panel, not a single signal will appear, but a double one.

If you want to reset all switch settings, then press and hold the switch on the sensor for about 10 seconds. All control panels associated with this switch will be disabled.

Now let's check if everything works properly ?!

Press the button B - the switch turns on. We press button B again - the switch turns off.

Let's check other buttons on the remote control that we did not program. The remote control does not respond to other buttons, which was required to be proved !!!

As I said, with the help of one remote control, you can control 3 switches (or 3 sensors). Also, one switch (sensor) can be tied simultaneously to 8 different control panels.

I would like to note that the settings of the switch and the remote control are saved even when the power is turned off and there is no battery in the remote control. And this is very important!

According to the declared characteristics, the operating range of the control panel is 20 (m). I have no way to check at such a distance at home. But from anywhere in the apartment, the switch works without problems, even from behind a wall, even from a corner, etc. I will clarify that all the walls in the apartment are made of drywall. How the switch will behave with concrete walls - I can not say.

Small upgrade

Some of you may argue that it is not very convenient to aim at the small sensor button. But it's all solvable! One of the radio amateurs has already come up with a so-called upgrade for this switch, i.e. expanded its sensitive area and now there is no need to aim at a small "target" - the switch will be triggered when you touch any point on the glass panel.

It is not difficult to do this. I will not upgrade my copy, but I will attach a photo of a similar touch switch, only without radio control.

It is necessary to get to the circuit board of the switch and solder one end of the conductor to the indicated place.

The second tip of the conductor remains free (in the air), it only needs to be fixed along the perimeter to the base of the board with glue, tape, and other convenient methods, as shown in the photo below.

Now the switch will work when you press anywhere on the glass surface.

2. Linking the switch to a PC, tablet and phone

On one of the forums, I came across a very detailed post that this switch can be tied to the Arduino Uno controller, which means that now you can control the switch not only manually or from the remote control, but also directly from a computer, tablet, phone and even with voice commands. So keep this in mind - with the help of this opportunity, you can build a richer and "smarter" lighting control system (and not only) for your house or apartment.

Conclusion

I will say a few words about the identified shortcomings.

I noticed that the glass panel has some play in the landing latches, but within reason. Also, fingerprints are constantly left on the glass panel. There are no other shortcomings that I can point out.

As an alternative to switches with touch and remote control, you can use ready-made devices (controllers) similar to those installed in, although they will have much less functionality.

And already by tradition, watch the video based on the materials of this article:

P.S. The range of Livolo does not end there. The site presents a large selection of switches, walk-through switches, sockets, dimmers, timers and other devices with different functionality, as well as an interesting design. But only the time of operation will show how reliable Livolo products are. If you already operate switches and other Livolo products, then write your opinion and feedback about them in the comments. Thank you.

The use of LED strips is gaining more and more popularity. They are used both for decorative interior lighting, that is, they are included in the overall design scheme, and as the main lighting. The widespread replacement of traditional lamps with these types of lighting fixtures is due to their economy and practicality. Tapes consume a minimum amount of electricity, and at the same time they have quite decent indicators of the generated luminous flux.

In order for such a lighting scheme, whether primary or decorative, to demonstrate its effectiveness, it is necessary to correctly calculate the power of the LED strip and select its type. In addition, you need to know how to connect the LED strip so that it functions with maximum durability, without failures and complete failure.

General characteristics of LED strips

LED strips are a solid flexible board that can have different widths. LEDs and other elements necessary for the operation of the circuit are mounted on this board. The LEDs themselves can be arranged in one or two rows with the same pitch, which contributes to the uniformity of light dispersion.

To have an idea about which LED strip is being purchased, you need to know the decoding of the marking applied to the product. The table below shows the general designations used for these products by almost all manufacturers:

Name and value of the parameter	Marking
Type of lighting device - designation that the light source is LEDs	LED
LED strip type:
LEDs are located on the surface of the tape	smd
LEDs enclosed in a flexible silicone cylindrical tube or coated with a silicone layer.	DIP LED
Dimensions of LEDs used	2835, 3528, 5050, 5630, 5730 and others
The density of LEDs, that is, their number per linear meter of tape	30, 60, 120, 240
Color emitted by LEDs	CW go WW - white (cold and warm respectively) B - blue, G - green, R - red, RGB - the ability to change the color of the glow of the tape
The class of protection of the product from the effects of dust and water, that is, its resistance to various operating conditions	IPxx (e.g. IP20, IP23, IP65, etc.)

The color of the glow, in addition to the abbreviations indicated in the table, can also be written in a word, in English or Russian, depending on the manufacturer. In addition, it can be clarified that ribbons with a white glow (W) are produced in three shades - cold, warm and neutral. For residential areas, neutral or warm shades of white are most often used, while the cool option is more suitable for lighting office spaces.

Find out from our new article on our portal.

As an example, consider one of the markings:

The specific power consumption (watts per linear meter) is indicated on the label located on the bay (coil). The value of the luminous flux emitted by one LED should also be indicated there (often also in terms of per linear meter and in comparison with the equivalent of a conventional incandescent lamp) . The supply voltage is also required.

LED sizes are subject to certain standards. The most popular options are SMD tapes 3528 and 5050. One meter of tape 3528 can have 60, 120 or 240 diodes, and 5050 - 30, 60 or 120 diodes. This type of LED strip can be equipped with a self-adhesive layer on the back.

All LED strips are sold by the meter. Depending on the model, there may be a different number of diodes per meter (installation density).

All SMD devices have contact pads designed to build up a tape or assemble its required length from several pieces. On the same platforms, which have a scissors icon, a too long tape can be cut into shorter strips.

Splicing of tape segments is carried out by soldering or using special LED connectors. Such a campaign greatly simplifies and speeds up the process of switching several segments into one circuit.

Tapes can vary in their width. So, even very narrow SMD tapes are produced, having a width of only 3 ÷ 4 mm. This allows you to mount it on the end of the panels or the walls of cabinets and shelves, as well as in hard-to-reach places as a backlight.

DIP LEDs are diodes that differ from those used for mounting on a flexible tape in their shape. They can have a diameter of 3 or 5 mm and are mounted on a central flexible core, on specially provided legs. Garlands assembled from such lamps are filled with silicone and can have different lengths.

In another version, DIP LEDs are enclosed in a matte flexible silicone tube.

Both garlands and the tube are used not only for indoor but also for outdoor lighting, as they have good moisture resistance.

RGB is a multi-color version of ribbons, tubes or garlands. A special controller of one type or another is responsible for the change and combination of colors, as well as their saturation, brightness and other functions of the lamp.

Power supply for LED strips

To ensure the normal and long-term operation of LED strips from a 220 V network, an energy converter is required - a power supply. Very often it does not come with a diode strip, and therefore it must be selected for the supply voltage and power of the device and purchased separately.

In terms of voltage, 12 V tapes are usually the most used. In second place are products that require a voltage of 24 V.

The specific power of the tape depends on how many diodes are located on its one running meter. It can range from 4 to 25 watts. True, there are much more powerful models. In any case, this must be specified when purchasing the tape and everything necessary to connect it.

To determine how much power a power supply (adapter or converter) needs, it is necessary to multiply the specific power of one linear meter of tape by the number of meters. Then, it is recommended to add 25÷30% power reserve to the resulting parameter.

The result of these calculations will be the minimum power of the power supply. For example, for a five-meter SMD 3528 tape with a power density of 9.6 W, a power supply with a minimum power of 9.6 × 5 + 25% = 60 W is desirable.

Controller (dimmer)

The controller is a device designed to control LED strip lights. To achieve the optimal functionality of RGB strips, you cannot do without a controller, since it sets the color gamut, brightness and other lighting qualities. Yes, and for monochrome, a dimmer often becomes necessary - it allows you to turn on certain sections of the general lighting system, adjust the brightness of the glow of the tapes.

The controller can control the system without user intervention - for example, according to the program laid down by the manufacturer, which involves a smooth change of shades. This type of device has the most affordable cost.

Others are controlled from the remote control, which adds comfort in everyday use. Commands can be transmitted via an infrared receiver or using a radio communication channel. The controller, controlled from the radio remote control, has more opportunities, as it is equipped with a large number of different lighting settings.

It is very important to choose the right controller power, which can be 72, 144, 180 or 288 watts. As in the case of the power supply, it is better to choose a device that has a power reserve. If the indicator is lower than the LED strip, then the controller will quickly fail.

Lighting brightness

Don't forget about the brightness of the LED strips. Choosing them in a store or via the Internet, it is difficult to determine how they will illuminate a particular room. Therefore, it is important to pay attention to digital marking. She will tell not only about the size of the LEDs used in the tape, but also about the intensity of the light flux they create.

• 3528 - tapes with low luminous flux. One LED emits only about 4.5÷5 lm. They are suitable for decorative lighting of shelves, cabinets and work surfaces in the kitchen. You can use them as an additional illumination of a multi-tiered plasterboard ceiling to the main lighting.
• 5050 (5055 and 5060) - are used quite often, since the LEDs emit 12 ÷ 14 lm each. That is, one meter of tape with a density of 60 LEDs can already give out 720 ÷ 800 lm “on the mountain”, and this is already more than the usual 60 W incandescent lamp. Due to this, such tapes are suitable not only for decorative lighting, but also for the main lighting of the room. In order for the room to be well lit, it must be assumed that approximately 5 meters of this type of tape are needed per 8 m².
• 2835 is a very bright LED strip with an LED intensity of 24÷28 lm. The powerful luminous flux of this product is narrowly focused. And this quality of the product can be used to highlight individual areas or illuminate the entire room. If the tape will play the role of the main lighting, then it will need 5000 mm per 12 m².
• 5630 (5730) are the brightest LED strips. They are used not only in residential premises, but also for lighting offices and shops. Widely used to create advertising structures. The intensity of the narrowly focused light emitted by such LEDs can be up to 75 lm. However, they get quite hot during operation. Therefore, when installing such tapes, aluminum heat exchangers are necessarily provided.

Level of tape protection against moisture and dust

Another characteristic that must be considered when purchasing an LED strip is the protection class. This is especially important in cases where lighting is planned to be installed in rooms with high humidity or outdoors. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to alphanumeric marking. This is the two-digit number after the letter abbreviation IP. The first digit is the degree of protection against solid substances (objects) and dust. The second is resistance to high humidity conditions and direct water ingress. The higher the class, the more secure the product is.

A few examples:

• IP 20 - low level of protection (there is no protection against moisture at all). Therefore, the products are designed for clean and dry rooms.
• IP 23, IP 43, IP 44 - tapes of this class are more protected from moisture and dust. Therefore, they can be used in damp and unheated rooms. For example, on a balcony or loggia, as well as along the baseboards of the floor.
• IP 65, IP 68 are tapes hermetically embedded in silicone, designed for operation in conditions of any humidity, dust, etc. Not afraid of direct exposure to precipitation. Resistant to sudden changes in temperature over a wide range. That is, they can be safely used on the street.

Using LED strips

And a few more words about which rooms and which LED strips are best to use:

• To illuminate racks, hanging shelves and cabinets, SMD tape 3528 with a LED density of 60 pcs is suitable. on a running meter. This is the easiest and most affordable option. The shade of light can be chosen according to preference.
• For a bedroom or children's room, but only as an additional backlight, you can install the same tape 3528 or 5050. It is recommended to choose a soft white light of a neutral hue.
• In large rooms, for additional or main lighting, SMD 5050 or 2835 tapes are more often used. These options, with the correct calculation of the required length, will do their job perfectly.
• Tapes SMD 5630 or 5730 are used to illuminate large areas, such as shops.
• SMD 5050 is used for lighting in the car interior, as well as an RGB tape with a protection class of at least IP54.
• To decorate or illuminate an open gazebo, terrace or other garden buildings, it will be necessary to purchase tapes in a silicone protective sheath with a protection class of at least IP65.

Learn how to choose and connect yourself from our new article on our portal.

Manufacturers of LED strips

LED strips are in great demand today, so a large number of manufacturers make them. There are especially many inexpensive Chinese-made products on the market. Such devices are not very complex, so even among the "budget" options it is quite possible to find quite reliable specimens.

So that there is no doubt about the quality of products, it is better to choose lighting elements from Russian, European or American manufacturers. These include the following companies: Osram (Germany), Joliet Technologies and Cree (USA), Cobra-250 (Russia), JOLIET (Spain) and others.

However, when purchasing LED strips from foreign companies, it must be remembered that most of their products are also made in China. But their cost is much higher than the price of Chinese products of unknown firms.

How to connect LED strip

The simplest installation of LED strip directly to the power supply

This subsection will consider the easiest installation of a five-meter 12 V LED strip using a 60 W power supply. This is exactly the example that was given above when explaining the calculation of the total power of the assembled circuit.

Following this scheme and the description of operations given in the instruction table, even a home master who is far from electrical installation can easily connect the LED strip. An open wiring option is shown. The power supply will be plugged into an outlet through a regular plug. And for "control" the simplest switch on the cord is used.

Table with step-by-step instructions for mounting an LED strip to a 220 V network through a power supply.

Illustration
	For mounting the backlight, an LED strip made in China, purchased from an online store, is used. Cool white LED strip. It is characteristic that even during its production, segments of wires for switching were soldered to the mounting site. This is not always the case - more often you have to solder yourself.
	There are 60 LEDs on each linear meter of the tape.
	Power supply 220 / 12 V, made by a domestic manufacturer. The power of the device is 60 V. That is, taking into account the power reserve - just what you need.
	To connect the power supply to a 220 V network, a piece of wire 2 × 1.5 mm with insulation of different colors is used. The length of the wire is selected depending on the location of the power supply and the location of the outlet. In this case, 500 mm is enough for the master.
	In addition, a collapsible plug is used for plugging into a socket, designed for a maximum current of 10A. This is more than enough. A note should be made immediately. The power supply has a metal case. Therefore, it never hurts to connect a protective earth wire PE to it. If in an apartment or house the internal wiring has such a circuit, then this is a must. In this case, a 3x1.5 wire and an appropriate plug are used. The ground conductor is green or green-yellow.
	Next, you need a piece of wire to connect the LED strip to the power supply. A large cross section is not required here, 2 × 0.2 ÷ 0.5 mm² may be suitable. The length of this wire will depend on the planned installation location of the LED strip and power supply. The wire must be color-coded for the insulation of the conductors - it will be important to observe the polarity of the connection here.
	A 6A switch that cuts into the power cable and is often used for nightlights. The switch can not be used, but then you have to constantly remove the plug from the outlet.
	Of the tools for work, you will need a Phillips (curly) screwdriver, a sharp knife for stripping insulation and electrical tape (heat shrink tube). In this example, the master does without a soldering iron, since two conductors are already soldered to the mounting pad of the purchased LED strip. But often it’s impossible to do without soldering wires to the tape, especially if it was purchased in a store not as a whole coil, as in this case, but by footage.
	The first step is to connect the power cable (2×1.5) to the plug. To do this, the plug must be untwisted and the “legs” removed from it. The wire stripped of insulation in advance is inserted into the terminals on the "legs" and fixed with screws. The plug may have other terminals - it's easy to deal with this.
	Further, the pin contacts connected to the wires - “legs” are installed in the plug body in their places. The fork is fully assembled and fixed with a screw.
	Now the other end of the wire must be connected to the power supply. The connection is made to the "jacks" marked L and N. The polarity, in this case, can not be observed.
	The ends of the wire must be stripped and twisted in advance with a “pigtail”. Then the cover covering the contacts is lifted.
	Further, screws are unscrewed from the terminal sockets "L" and "N". The stripped ends of the wire are put on them, on which it is necessary to form a ring with a diameter approximately equal to the diameter of the terminal screw.
	After that, the screws are installed and fixed in the terminal. Polarity can also be ignored for the time being. If a three-core cable is used, then the grounding conductor is connected in its terminal, with a characteristic grounding icon or marked with the symbols PE.
	The next step is to strip the ends of the wire intended for connecting the LED strip. This wire must be connected to the terminals marked V- and V+. Here, attention is already drawn to the color marking of the wire insulation. For example, a black wire is connected to V-, and a red wire is connected to V+. Colors may be different - it depends on the type of wire. But it is important to immediately understand well which one will go to the "minus", which - to the "plus".
	The terminals in this case are the same as at the input of the power wire - screws. That is, the connection does not have any features.
	Also, “rings” are formed around the screws, then the screws are inserted into their sockets and tightened with a screwdriver.
	Now we need special attention. - it's time to connect the wire coming from the power supply to the LED strip. Since in this example the LED strip already has mounting "cold ends", they are twisted with the stripped ends of the wires coming from the power supply. If insulation with a heat shrink tube is supposed, then its segments are pre-dressed on the wires before they are connected. Here it is very important to take into account the polarity of the connection - that is why the color marking of the conductor insulation is needed. Most often, a red wire is soldered to the “plus” of the LED strip, and black to the “minus”. But it does not hurt to check once again - there are always polarity symbols on the mounting pad of the tape. If it is violated, the scheme will not work.
	Wire connections can be made by twisting or soldering. After this, the joints must be insulated with electrical tape or stretched on them with previously put on pieces of heat shrink, and then heated to compress it. It is clear that contact between the wires must be completely excluded. Therefore, the connections can be unbent in different directions and insulated separately, and then neatly assembled together under another layer of insulation.
	Now you can test the assembled system by plugging in the plug. If all connections are made correctly, the tape should light up. But it is impossible to leave a tape wound in a coil or on a reel turned on for a long time. Checked - and enough.
	To proceed to the next stage of work, you must unplug the plug from the outlet, de-energizing the assembled system. Further, if it is decided to install a switch on the power cord, then you can proceed to this stage of work.
	The switch must be disassembled by unscrewing the screws holding the housing. Then the case must be tried on to the power wire in the place where it is planned to make a tie-in. Using a marker, marks are made on the outer sheath of the wire, along which the insulation will be removed. The distance between the marks should be 15÷20 mm less than the length of the circuit breaker body.
	Further, according to the marks, cuts are carefully made in the outer insulating sheath of the wire. In this case, the insulation of the wires passing inside should not be affected.
	When the outer insulation is removed, the neutral conductor is exposed and cut. Further, its ends are cleaned. The phase conductor remains intact. (However, this “polarity” still remains conditional, since such a plug can be plugged into an outlet in one of two ways. That is, where exactly the phase will be located, and where zero is difficult to say).
	The stripped ends of the cut wire are twisted, and then they must be fixed in the switch terminals with screws. A whole, uncut wire is neatly placed on the other side of the key.
	Then the cover is laid on the switch and is attracted by screws. As a result, a cord hidden under the outer insulating sheath should come out of the switch body on both sides.
	And finally, the final short-term test of the assembled system is made - already using the switch on the power cord.

For safety reasons, the power supply is recommended to be placed in such a way as to exclude the possibility of touching its case. Sometimes a plastic case is used. For power wires and going to the LED strip, holes are cut out in its walls.

If the LED strip did not light up after assembly or quickly failed, then there can be only two reasons for this:

• Poorly manufactured products - power supply or tape.
• Incorrect assembly of the lighting system. Most likely, the error lies in the wrong polarity of the connection.

By the way, the master in the example shown can make one important remark. It is quite possible (and necessary) to avoid unnecessary fuss with wires when switching them in the power supply terminals if you use pressed-on terminal lugs. Their cost is cheap, and work becomes easier faster, contacts are more reliable.

Diagrams of other LED strip connection options

And now - about other, more complex connection options that are often used when installing LED strips.

• If you plan to connect two SMD LED strips in parallel, then each of them should have a length of no more than 5000 mm. And if necessary, increase the length to use a serial connection, if the total is more than 5 meters - it is unacceptable. This is due to the fact that the current-carrying capacity of the tape is designed specifically for a length of up to 5000 mm. If it is exceeded, then the load will also increase, which means that the tape will quickly fail. During the period of operation, it will be noticeable that the LEDs burn unevenly. That is, on one side of the tape, the light will be bright, and then gradually begins to dim.

• If you plan to connect three parallel LED strips to one power supply, then the principle does not change. But with any parallel connection of several tapes, the total power is taken into account without fail. The power supply must be able to withstand such a load (with the margin already mentioned above).
• If there is no power supply of sufficient power for the simultaneous parallel connection of several long tapes, then each of them can be connected to its own unit with the required parameters. And already for the blocks to provide a common switching system.

Connecting an LED strip through a dimmer

To diversify the capabilities of the LED strip, it is often connected not directly to the power supply, but through a special device -. This is a kind of regulator, often equipped with a remote control, which allows you to change the brightness of the glow, due to the variability of the output parameters of voltage or current. Often, dimmers also have built-in controllers that add a number of useful (and not so) functions. For example, flickering at a certain frequency or according to a programmed program, responding to sound by changing brightness, and more. And you absolutely cannot do without a dimmer with a controller when it comes to connecting an RGB tape.

Dimmers can have multiple outputs. That is, be initially ready to connect several LED strips in parallel. An example will be shown below - in the table with the installation instructions.

We will not consider here too complex "tiered" circuits, which often also require special amplifiers. This task is best left to an experienced electrician. But some schemes are quite accessible for a novice home master.

With all the variety of dimmers, they are always installed between the power supply and LED strips. Naturally, the characteristics of this device (voltage, power) must correspond to the system being assembled.

From the side of the power supply, the wires are connected to the input (INPUT). And from the output (OUTPUT) there is a switching to the LED strip. Naturally, polarity is strictly observed here and there. When connecting RGB tapes, the “color pinout” also matters. But as a rule, for such connections, the dimmer is equipped with special adapters, so it is difficult to confuse the contacts.

The scheme for connecting several LED strips in parallel through a dimmer with one output is shown below. Basically, there is nothing new.

True, there may be nuances. In particular, when adjusting the intensity of the glow of the tape, that is, when the supply voltage is lowered, the difference between the brightness of the LEDs located closer to the beginning of the tape and to its end often becomes clearer. Moreover, this can be noticeable even at quite acceptable lengths (up to 5 meters). In order to avoid such a disadvantage, two-sided tape connection is practiced. So the difference in current parameters along the entire length of the tape is leveled. Moreover, this becomes relevant when connecting several tapes.

Connecting LED strip ceiling lighting through a dimmer - step by step

The table below shows step-by-step instructions for wiring LED strips. They are installed permanently in the design of a two-tier false ceiling. They can work both together with the main lighting of the room, and separately. Four tapes are used that completely encircle the perimeter of the room. To connect and control their operation, a dimmer is used, which has four parallel outputs.

This example will help you understand the principles of installation. Well, it will not be so difficult to draw up your own project, based on the specific features of the premises and the plans of the owners for its design.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	The work, if approached wisely, must be planned and begin at the stage of laying the wiring in the apartment. The power supply of the LED backlight will be switched in the mounting box, to which the power cable is laid. Below the box is a socket box - there will be a switch for the main lighting of the room.
	A power cable VVGng 3 × 1.5 mm is laid to the mounting box from the switchboard. For illumination of such a section will be enough.
	In the switchboard, the protective sheath was removed from the cable, the wires were separated. The phase wire (white) connects to a dedicated 10 amp circuit breaker.
	The blue wire (zero) is connected to the working zero bus. And, finally, green-yellow - to the protective ground bus.
	The same power cable in the junction box. It is also cut, the wires are bred, stripped of insulation by 8 ÷ 10 mm. And so that later there is no confusion, it is better to mark them immediately. L - white, phase, N - blue, zero, PE - green-yellow, ground.
	The next step from the box is a segment of the same cable to the place of the planned installation of the power supply. Since it will be hidden by the false ceiling structure, you can use open wiring, but without fail enclosing the cable in a corrugated pipe.
	This cable is also cut in the box. Its wires are stripped, bred as shown in the illustration. The phase wire is marked Lled, the rest - N and PE - by analogy with the power cable. It is not shown here, but at this stage, a piece of cable is immediately inserted into the box, going in a shtrab to the socket box, where the main lighting switch will be installed. Depending on whether the switch is one- or two-gang, the cable must have two or three wires.
	After that, you can do the finishing of the walls - the lines with the laid cables are plastered, puttied. The illustration shows a well-installed socket for a switch with a cable inserted into it. Next - the installation of a frame structure for a suspended plasterboard ceiling is carried out.
	In a predetermined place, a shelf is mounted from a plywood (chipboard) panel or drywall, where the power supply and dimmer will be located. A power cable in a corrugated pipe coming from the junction box should fit this shelf. The place of the shelf is usually chosen so that the length of the cable is minimal, and access to the devices installed on it is provided if certain repair or maintenance work is required.
	The cable is cut, the ends of the wires are stripped by 8 ÷ 10 mm, and then clamped in the terminals of the power supply. White, respectively, in the L terminal, blue in the N terminal, and green-yellow in the terminal with a characteristic ground icon. Since the VVGng 3 × 1.5 cable with solid wires is used, no modifications are required - the stripped ends are perfectly clamped in screw terminals with pressure contacts.
	The next step is to switch the power supply with a dimmer. For this, two pieces of the PUGV mounting wire with a cross section of 1 mm² are prepared. For convenience, two colors of PuGV insulation are used. Red, both here and everywhere else, will connect the plus contacts. Black, respectively, "minus". The length of the wire segments is not needed here - just so that there is not enough tension from the power supply to the dimmer. Since the PuGV wire has a multi-wire structure, terminal lugs are put on and pressed into the stripped ends - this way the contacts will become more reliable. Pay attention to the dimmer. At its output (Output Led) there is one common V + contact, and four V- contacts. This allows you to connect four LED strips up to 5 meters long.
	The wires are connected to the power supply. First - the black wire is clamped in the V-...
	... and then red - in the V + terminal.
	After that, the cover is removed from the dimmer, the closing terminals at the input (Input), and the wires are clamped into them in compliance with the polarity indicated above. After that, the cover can be returned to its place.
	The next stage of work is the laying of power wires for LED strips from the dimmer installation site to their connection points. There are two such nodes in the room - in diagonally opposite corners. That is, two tapes will be connected from the corner, running along the converging walls. Here is one such node ....
	... and this is the second one, in the diagonally opposite corner. Three PuGV wires are carried out to each node in the corrugated pipe: one common red and two black.
	The opposite ends of these wires converge on the shelf at the location of the dimmer.
	The ends of the wires are cleaned, tips are pressed onto them. In this case, two red wires are assembled in one tip, as they will be clamped in one terminal.
	The black wires are clamped in the V-… terminals.
	...and then the paired red conductor in the V+ terminal. In fact, on the shelf, all electrical work is completed.
	In the nodes for connecting tapes, the wires must also be stripped first ...
	... and then terminal lugs are pressed onto them. The length of the wires here should be such that it is possible to bring them out from under the plasterboard lining - for subsequent switching with LED strips.
	Now you need to finish the work in the junction box.
	Immediately pay attention to the changes that have occurred in the box. A cable leading to the switch is wound from below (shown by a red arrow). Top right (shown by a yellow arrow) - a cable going to the main room lighting fixtures. All cables are cut, and their wires are divided into four groups. With zero (blue) and ground (green-yellow) everything is simpler - they just come together. The power line phase (L) will be connected to the phase going to the power supply (Lled) and to the L wire going to the main light switch (the group is circled in a white oval). The wire L1 returning from the switch will be connected to the phase going to the main lighting (highlighted in orange oval).
	Then these groups of wires are connected - this is conveniently done using the Wago terminals, as shown in the illustration. Thus, the power supply of the LED strips is constantly connected to the network, and they are controlled exclusively through a dimmer. If desired, you can also power the LED strips (more precisely, their power supply) through the switch. Then a two-key model is installed, and a three-core cable is laid from the box to it. One wire is the same phase from the power input. And at the output from the switch - one wire will be connected to Lled, and the second - to the L1 wire going to the main lighting. It turns out one more terminal in the box.
	After that, you can finish with the installation of a plasterboard suspended ceiling. The yellow arrow in the figure shows the wire exit window of one of the LED strip switching nodes. The same exit is available on the diagonally opposite corner. It is undesirable to attach LED strips to drywall. To do this, use a special aluminum profile (shown by a red arrow), which is pre-installed at the required height. The profile also provides proper heat dissipation during backlight operation, and attaching a tape to it is much easier and more convenient.
	Such profiles can have a different design, including often equipped with luminous flux diffusers. In addition to flat ones, there are also corner profiles that direct light in the right direction. The choice depends on the type and dimensions of the tape, and on the specific installation conditions.
	The LED strip itself is being prepared for installation. If there is a need to trim it to the desired size in length, then this is done exclusively in the places indicated by the corresponding icon. After cutting, on each side there are mounting pads with the applied polarity of the connection.
	Now it is necessary to connect the pieces of the mounting wire to the tape, which will be switched in the connecting nodes. The connection can be made using special connectors. But if they are not there, then the wires are soldered in compliance with the polarity and color marking. It is important not to overheat the contact pads of the tape. Therefore, firstly, the stripped ends of the wires must first be qualitatively tinned. Secondly, soldering is done with a soldering iron with a power of up to 25 W, with a well-sharpened and tinned tip. The soldering time of each contact should not exceed a maximum of 10 seconds, otherwise you can burn the tracks.
	The length of the wires is taken such that they freely, without interference, but also without a large surplus reach the switching node. The ends of the wires are cleaned, terminal lugs are installed and pressed on them.
	LED strips are fixed in profiles. The wires soldered to them converge at the connection node. Three red wires will come together - one from the laid wiring, and two from the tapes. And black ones are assembled in two pairs, from wiring and from each tape separately, as required in this case by the device of the dimmer output terminals.
	For the final connection, Wago terminals are again used. One triple for red wires and two doubles for black wires.
	Similar operations are carried out with two other tapes, on the opposite connecting node. After switching, it will look something like this.
	Now you can finish with the finishing - a ceiling plinth (baguette) is glued around the perimeter, which will hide both the LED strips laid in the profiles and the switching nodes in the corners.
	In fact, the installation of LED strips is completed. The main lighting devices are being installed (the figure shows the central ceiling and a string of spotlights as an example). The switch is connected.
	After that, the switching is checked again, and a test run can be carried out. Turns on the machine in the switchboard. And then - the switch in the room. If everything is functioning normally, the master can be congratulated on the successful completion of the work.
	And, of course, by manipulating the remote control of the dimmer, you can "play" with the levels of lighting intensity from the LED strips.

We hope that the above information will help you cope with the installation of LED strip lighting of any complexity. It is important to understand how, in principle, the connection is made, what are the similarities and differences in different schemes. Then other options will not seem difficult.

At the end of the publication - a video in which the master shares his secrets on installing LED strip lighting for the working area in the kitchen.

Video: How to illuminate the worktop in the kitchen with LED strip

The touch switch for the LED strip is designed for efficient and comfortable control of the lighting fixture. Compared with a button, this way of turning the light on and off is much more convenient.

Applications

Touch switches have found application in many areas:

• lighting control of the working area in the kitchen;
• connection of a variety of lighting devices (sconces, lights in suspended ceilings);
• lighting on landings of entrances;
• smart home system.

These switches have a lot of advantages:

1. Turning the device on and off is carried out by pressing a finger on the sensitive surface.
2. It is possible to control the brightness of the lighting in the range from 10 to 100%.
3. Devices of this type do not create sound discomfort. Their mechanisms are almost silent.
4. The touch panel is resistant to moisture, and therefore can be used in the kitchen or in the bathroom.
5. Touch devices fit perfectly into any design solutions.
6. The minimum dimensions allow you to install the switch in the profile of the LED strip.
7. The indicator installed in the board gives a pleasant bluish glow. Thanks to this factor, it is easy to find the switch in complete darkness.

Types of switches

Switches are usually classified according to several criteria:

1. By the method of control (mechanics, electronics, remote control).
2. According to the installation method (embedded in the aluminum profile for the tape, modular, overhead).
3. By type of connection (through, non-through). The former make it possible to control lighting from different places, while the latter are limited to a specific area.

Touch devices are offered with some additional features:

1. Remote control with IR sensor. Thanks to this device, it becomes possible to control a multi-color ribbon and a controller.
2. Timer. Allows you to save electricity. With the help of a timer, the user pre-programs the time parameters for the lighting system.
3. The non-contact system responds to temperature fluctuations or physical activity of living organisms in the coverage area of ​​the device.
4. capacitive response. This feature increases the sensitivity of the panel.
5. Dimmer. Controls the brightness of the lighting.

Design features

Each model has the following elements:

1. Outer part. Behind it, the backlight of the touch sensor is mounted.
2. The sensor itself. It activates devices in previously known (programmed) situations.
3. Switching scheme. It transforms the signal into an electrical discharge that activates the lamp.
4. Surface-mounted or built-in housing.

Note! The service life of the device is directly related to the quality of components. So don't overspend on buying them.

Installation

The switch is installed in the form of a module. The compactness of such a device makes it possible to mount it in a special aluminum profile. The switch is installed next to the LED strip.

Note! The case instantly responds to touch. In this regard, during installation, it is recommended to avoid accidental contact with the sensor.

DIY assembly

To perform the work, you will need the ability to own a soldering iron and some knowledge in electrical engineering. You also need a set of parts from which the touch switch will be assembled. It is powered by a 220-volt network.

The figure below shows the operation of the device.

Note! Capacitor C3 can be used as desired, it is not required in the circuit.

To assemble the switch, you will need the following components:

• a pair of KT315 transistors;
• resistance (at 30 ohms);
• semiconductor D226;
• conventional 0.22 uF capacitor;
• power supply (a powerful 9-volt battery is also suitable);
• electrolyte capacitor (100 uF, 16 volts).

Important! If you have two power supplies, for example, an RGB circuit (designed to amplify the signal), then do not place the blocks close to each other.

The above components are soldered according to the previously discussed scheme.

If you wish and skill, you can assemble a touch switch with your own hands. This will save you some money. If there is no possibility of self-assembly, then the purchased model will fully justify itself due to its economy and comfortable light control.