Replacing the foundation under an old wooden house. Foundation for a wooden house Making a foundation for a wooden house

This page contains information about the foundations used for the construction of wooden houses. We will consider the features of strip and pile-grillage foundations and study the technology of their manufacture.

The main wooden house is a reliable foundation that can withstand the corresponding loads. Builders use several types of bases in the process of erecting such objects:,,.

Strip foundation for a wooden house

Tape bases, are a strip of reinforced concrete laid along the perimeter of the house. It is provided for laying the tape, not only under the outer, but also under the inner walls of the object.

Attention! Be sure to maintain a single sectional shape along the entire perimeter of the base.

Pile-grillage foundation for a wooden house

Pile-grillage structures, consist of concrete or steel piles with a rectangular, and sometimes round section. The product is immersed in wells, where it rests on dense layers of soil.

Attention! The depth of piling depends on the mass of the building, the heavier it is, the stronger the structures are driven into the ground.

To increase resistance to negative temperatures, making the product durable in bending, the reinforcement procedure will help, which additionally creates a high level of seismic resistance.

An integral element of the structure are pile heads, connected to each other by a grillage, which is a monolithic tape of reinforced concrete. At the same time, it performs the function of a support that serves as the basis for the walls of the building. The grillage ensures the distribution of the load evenly over the entire area of ​​​​the base.

Attention! Inevitably, there are tensile forces generated in the gaps between the piles. Their compensation is carried out by reinforcing the grillage.

The grillage is made in the form of reinforced concrete slabs or tape.

Pile foundation for a wooden house

Pile foundations are based on long rods driven into the soil. The product has a pointed end and a metal tip that prevents damage to the pile during immersion in the ground. The upper end of the pile structure is equipped with a steel tip that prevents the product from splitting in the process of hammer blows during deepening.

There are several types of pile foundations that differ in the method of immersion:

• driving - deepening is carried out by means of pressing mechanisms, for example, vibrators;
• borehole - mounted in pre-drilled wells;
• bored - a well is drilled into which concrete is poured;
• screw - the structure is screwed into the ground.

Wooden houses - log cabins, buildings made of timber or rounded logs, which are light in weight, are most often built on foundations made of screw piles. This is a prefabricated type of foundation, which can be equipped within 3-4 working days.

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It is practiced to tie screw foundations with a grillage made of timber or rolled metal, which significantly speeds up the installation time of the foundation, since there is no need for a forced 15-20 day pause, which is required for the reinforced concrete grillage to gain strength.

Important: on driven reinforced concrete piles, wooden buildings are erected in conditions of low-density soils, where screw supports are unreliable due to poor stability. The large length and cross-sectional area of ​​driven piles allows them to transfer the load emanating from the weight of the building to deep incompressible soil layers.

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Foundations on reinforced concrete piles have no analogues in construction in seismically unfavorable regions and in soil conditions prone to horizontal shifts. This is one of the most reliable types of foundation, the service life of which exceeds 100 years.

Strip foundations for wooden houses are used in soils that are not prone to frost heaving. Buildings are erected on MZF - shallow-depth belts that are laid in the soil to a depth of 30-80 cm. This is a fairly reliable and economical type of foundation that you can equip with your own hands.

Depending on the type of construction, shallow tapes are divided into:

• Monolithic, made of reinforced concrete;
• Prefabricated, formed from bricks or FBS (foundation blocks).

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Monolithic bases are more durable, since the reinforced concrete tape is less exposed to the negative effects of groundwater. Also, the monolith has increased resistance to loads during operation, which is achieved due to reinforcement, which is absent from prefabricated foundations.

Technology for creating a strip foundation for a wooden house

To make a shallow strip foundation, there is no need to use special equipment, you only need small-scale mechanization - a concrete mixer, a grinder, a screwdriver and a welding machine.

The foundation installation technology is as follows:

• Preparatory work.

Before starting construction, you need to prepare the site - clear the site of debris and vegetation, remove a layer of sod (to the depth of a spade bayonet) and uproot the roots of trees. If the area has a natural slope, the site must be leveled to one level, which may require the involvement of an excavator. With small differences in relief, all work is done manually.

• Markup.

To transfer the contours of the foundation to the site, you will need to make cast-off shields, which consist of two side beams driven into the ground and a transverse board. The twine on the shield is fixed with a self-tapping screw or a nail hammered into the upper edge of the jumper.

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Initially, the object is bound to the fence of the site or to an existing building. The required distance recedes from the landmark and the outer contour of the first wall of the house is laid - two cast-offs are installed (shields are taken out of the wall by 1.5-2 m) and the contour is fixed with a building cord. Next, a perpendicular wall is marked.

Important: the right angle is checked according to the rule of diagonals - 3 and 4 meters on each side recede from the intersection point of the cord and the length of the diagonal between the marks is measured, if the angle is correct, it will be 5 meters.

The two remaining contours of the outer walls are transferred in the same way, after which the width of the tape retreats from the lines and the inner contour of the outer wall is laid. Next, the interior belts of the tape are noted.

• Development of a trench and backfilling of the compacting pad.

Digging a trench under the MLF is done manually. The trench is dug to a depth of 20 cm more than the planned depth of the tape. Upon completion of the development of the soil at the bottom of the trench, a bed of sand and gravel is formed (two layers 10 cm thick: the first is sand, the second is gravel). The bedding is compacted in layers using a manual rammer.

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• Formwork installation.

The formwork is formed from planed boards with a thickness of over 1 cm. The form is installed along the side contours of the trench, the shields are connected using bars and self-tapping screws.

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The structure is reinforced with side braces and transverse braces in the upper part, located in 2 m increments. After installation, the inner walls of the formwork and trenches are lined with waterproofing (ordinary PVC oilcloth is suitable);

• Reinforcement.

Armoframe MZF consists of upper and lower horizontal belts, each of which consists of 3-4 corrugated reinforcing bars (diameter 12-16 mm). The longitudinal belts are fixed by welding on rectangular clamps curved from smooth reinforcement, located in increments of 30-40 cm.

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The cross section of the frame should be such that each side of it is 5 cm away from the formwork walls. The frame is assembled in a convenient place, after which the finished structure is installed in the formwork.

• Concreting.

To fill the tape, concrete of the M300 brand is used with a filler of granite crushed stone with fractions of 10-20 mm. When preparing the mixture in a concrete mixer, make sure that the pauses between pouring do not allow intermediate hardening of the layers.

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After concreting, the mixture is bayoneted with a reinforcing bar - it is necessary to remove the air cavities formed in it, and covered with waterproofing material. During the hardening process (20-30 days), the concrete must be moistened periodically.

The technology of creating a pile-grillage foundation for a wooden house

The construction of a pile-grillage foundation of a screw type can also be carried out completely by hand. For the installation of piles, the efforts of three people will be required, two of which screw the structure, and the third controls the verticality of its entry and makes adjustments.

The technology for installing the foundation for a wooden house is as follows:

• The base is marked with a cast-off and a building cord. Initially, the facade line is transferred, after which perpendicular walls are laid and the right angle is checked. Further, the internal contours of the walls are marked and, according to the design step, the screwing points of the supports are indicated between the piles with reinforcing pegs;
• Installation of piles begins with corner supports. On the trunk of each structure, technical holes are provided, into which scrap of a suitable diameter is threaded. To increase the leverage, a steel pipe 2 m long must be put on each side of the scrap. During the installation process, it is necessary to monitor the verticality of the pile immersion using a level. Keep in mind that unscrewing the pile to adjust the height of the part of the trunk that rises above the ground is prohibited;

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• After the installation of all the supports, the leveling line on the piles is determined by the water level, which is marked with a marker or chalk, and the trunks are cut with a grinder;

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• Metal heads are installed on the pile shafts, which are fixed by welding. After installation, the weld is coated with an anti-corrosion primer;

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• The most economical and reliable option for tying piles is to install a grillage from a 20 * 20 cm beam. Holes are provided for fixing the grillage on the heads - the beam is laid over the heads, joined in corner places and fixed with the help of "capercaillie" - wood bolts with a hex head. After installation, the grillage must be covered with an antiseptic for wood, which prevents the material from rotting under the influence of moisture.

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Rules for calculating the foundation for a wooden house

Regardless of the type of foundation, the principles of its calculation are always the same. The following factors must be taken into account:

• soil type;
• soil freezing level;
• depth of groundwater;
• permanent and temporary loads on the foundation.

Permanent loads include a mass of basic structures, such as floors, roofs, walls. This also includes operational loads, including furniture and equipment installed in the premises.


Live loads include the mass of snow cover in winter and the force of the wind. The base area is determined depending on the calculated resistance of the soil, which is medium density and dense, and the indicators vary from 1.5 - 6.0 kg / cm2. The loads transmitted by building structures are determined depending on the mass of materials used in the process of their construction. The calculation is based on the specific gravity of one cubic meter of the base.

It is required to take into account the critical design resistance of each type of soil:

• sandy, gravel soil - 4.5kg / cm;
• hard clay - 6kg / cm;
• wet fine sand - 3 kg / cm.

Responsibly our specialists approach the calculation of the foundation, taking into account all types of loads that affect its bearing capacity. The type of foundation for a wooden house depends on the nature of the soil. If the soil is loose, then pile structures are used, and in the case of massive buildings, strip foundations are preferred. The right choice of foundation will be the key to the reliability of the entire building, which will last for many years if the arrangement is carried out by professionals.

Today, wooden houses are a very fashionable and ecological solution, widely used in summer cottage construction. On the construction market, you can immediately choose a ready-made set of prefabricated wooden houses with delivery directly to the construction site. It is not difficult for a home master to assemble a wooden house from a ready-made kit. But the foundation for a wooden house with your own hands is better to do on your own.

Requirements for the foundation for a wooden house

Wooden houses are different, even multi-apartment and multi-storey. But the most common are light one-story houses for summer cottage construction.
A good foundation for a wooden house, like almost any other house, is designed to solve the following problems:

• take on loads caused by seasonal movement of the soil - swelling, subsidence, shift;
• level the base for building a house, maintain stability for the entire time of its operation;
• provide waterproofing of walls and floors from ground and flood waters.

When choosing the type and design of the foundation for the planned building, the home master should know the characteristics of the environment that have a greater effect on the parameters of the building foundation:

• the depth of seasonal freezing of the soil;
• depth of soil layers subject to seasonal frost heaving and subsidence;
• groundwater level at the time of seasonal freezing of the soil;
• typical spring flood height at the site.

A particular danger for a house made of wood is the combination of a layer of heaving and medium heaving soil and a high level of groundwater, which is 0.5 - 1 m higher than the depth of seasonal freezing of the soil.

Types of foundations for wooden houses

To determine the parameters of the natural environment at the construction site, it is not necessary to carry out expensive and lengthy geophysical surveys. It is enough to walk around the neighboring built-up areas and interview the neighbors. It is necessary to find out on what foundations their houses are built, what advantages and disadvantages they notice, what they would like to eliminate or improve in them, etc.
According to the type of material used for their construction, foundations are:

• stone (rubble, block and brick);
• cast from reinforced concrete;
• on asbestos-cement or metal pipes (piles).

By design, the foundations of a wooden house can be:

• tape;
• columnar;
• pile.

The option of a monolithic slab foundation for a wooden country house is excessively strong and excessively expensive, given its relative lightness compared to brick or reinforced concrete buildings.

Advantages and disadvantages of various designs

Each foundation design has its advantages and disadvantages:

• the strip foundation will be the most reliable, it can smooth out many mistakes of an unprofessional approach in construction, but its laying is quite laborious;
• a columnar foundation for a wooden house is cheaper and less laborious than a strip foundation, but it is very unreliable on light, swelling and shrinking soils, as well as on flooded areas;
• pile foundations are effective on light moving soils, but can be very costly due to the need to perform bored work and use special piles. Also, in flooded areas, it will be problematic to use the bored method of installing piles, in connection with the flooding of drilled pits.

Strip foundation device

The strip foundation should be made under all structures of the structure in a continuous strip, distributing the weight of the house along its entire perimeter.
Depending on the depth of laying, strip foundations of buildings are:

• deeply buried;
• shallowly buried;
• not buried.

Deep buried type is used for heavy stone and multi-storey buildings. Non-buried type - for the construction of light outbuildings.
For a wooden one-story country house, in conditions of slightly heaving and conditionally non-heaving soils, a shallowly buried strip foundation would be most suitable.
The laying of such a foundation begins with its marking, according to the design drawing. At the same time, the evenness of the lines of the future foundation is checked, its longitudinal dimensions and angles are consistent.
After the foundation of the house is marked out, they begin to dig trenches under it. The depth of the trenches is taken to be 50 - 60 cm, at the rate of 20 - 30 cm - on a sand cushion and about 30 cm - on the buried part of the foundation. The width of the trenches is determined by the formula: the width of the foundation (the design width of the walls of the house plus 20 - 30 cm) plus the thickness of the formwork (the width of the boards (usually 20 mm) multiplied by four).
After the trenches for the foundation are dug, their bottom is covered with a sand or sand and gravel cushion of 20–30 cm. The sand cushion is filled with water for compaction, its moistened surface is leveled and leveled at the building level.
A foundation tape is laid on a horizontal sand cushion. To effectively compensate for future longitudinal - bending forces, its height must be at least twice the width.

Types of strip foundation

The strip foundation for a wooden house can be made:

• from rubble stone;
• brick or cinder block;
• from reinforced concrete blocks;
• monolithic reinforced concrete.

The laying of the strip foundation (from rubble stone, brick and blocks) is carried out on a cement-sand mortar and is made to a height of 50 to 80 cm. From its total height, 30 cm should fall on the deep part, and 20 - 50 cm - on the aboveground. A high base is made when the site is flooded during spring floods.
The horizontality of the upper plane of the foundation is checked by a level, if necessary, leveled by laying an additional layer of cement-sand mortar.
When laying the foundation, it is necessary to provide for the insertion of vertical threaded studs or side corners into it for fastening the crown (the first row of logs or beams) of a wooden house.
At the next stage, the reinforcement grid of the foundation is laid. The reinforcing mesh is made of building reinforcement, but a smooth metal bar, thick (5mm) iron wire, corners, small pipes can also be used.
For the installation of a reinforcing grid, two rows of metal rods are steadily stuck into the bottom of the trench (at a distance of up to 10 cm from the formwork panels, about 50 cm between the rods in a row). Vertical reinforcement bars are tied with horizontal longitudinal and transverse bars, about 20 cm apart in height. The reinforcing mesh does not have to be welded by electric welding. It is enough to fasten its rods together in knots with a knitting wire.

Pillar foundation for a wooden house

A deep columnar foundation is used in cases where the upper layers of the soil cannot serve as a reliable support for a shallow strip foundation. Foundation pillars are laid out of bricks, blocks or poured from reinforced concrete in formwork with a width equal to the thickness of the walls of the house, plus 20 - 30 cm, and the height of the pillars is at least three times their width.
Of the total height of the foundation pillars, up to 20 - 50 cm falls on their above-ground part, the rest is the buried part. The pillars are installed along the perimeter of the house with a step of 2 - 2.5 m. At the same time, they must be installed under open and closed corners of the perimeter of the house, under convergences and intersections of its internal walls.

The procedure and technology for the construction of a columnar foundation is close to a strip one, and includes:

• marking the position of the pillars;
• digging a trench around the perimeter of the house to the depth of the underground part of the pillars;
• pouring pits with concrete;
• embedding threaded studs or side corners in the pillars for fixing the crown of the house;
• laying on the upper sections of the pillars of the waterproofing layer.

According to the technology of a columnar foundation, at the top of its pillars must be connected with a grillage - horizontal reinforced concrete beams that form the base of the house. But for a light one-story wooden house, the grillage device seems redundant. His role will be played by the lower crown of this house.

Pile foundation device

The pile foundation for a wooden house compares favorably with:

1. high efficiency on moving heaving soils;
2. quick and cheap installation;
3. the possibility of its installation at any time of the year, since its depth is greater than the depth of seasonal freezing of the soil.

The pile foundation for a country house can be:

• bored;
• screwed.

With the bored method, the order of the pile foundation is as follows:

• drilling with hand drills or gas drills holes in the ground (with a diameter of under 20 cm) to the required depth, in increments of about 2 m; at the same time, it is mandatory to install piles under open and closed corners of the perimeter of the building, at the places of convergence and intersection of its internal walls;
• lowering asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 20 cm into the drilled holes; alignment of the upper cuts of pipes at a certain height according to the level;
• lowering into the pipe 3 - 4 reinforcing bars;
• pouring the inner cavity of the pipe with concrete;
• embedding threaded studs or anchors in the upper end of the piles to attach the crown of the house.

The screwed foundation provides for the use of special iron screw piles made of iron pipes with a pile head attached to them, a drill bit and blades. Such piles simply need to be screwed into the ground to the required depth.

Grades of poured concrete

After mounting the formwork and reinforcement grid, the formwork is poured with concrete.
Concrete is prepared from a mixture of Portland cement (M400 and M500 cement grades are commercially available), sand, crushed stone and water. The percentage of components determines the brand of concrete, which means its compressive hardness in kg / cm2.

For the production of concrete, portable concrete mixers equipped with an electric motor are used, with a ready mix volume of 70 - 250 liters.
A monolithic reinforced concrete foundation is poured to the same height of 50 cm (up to 80 cm - with a high plinth), where 30 cm is the height of its underground part.
To achieve the maximum solidity of the foundation, it is advisable to pour it with concrete continuously, by daily norms, “wet”. At the same time, continuing to water the already made areas with water.
At the final stage, waterproofing is laid between the foundation and the walls of the house. To do this, it is necessary to generously smear the upper plane of the foundation with bituminous mastic, and lay 2–3 strips of roofing material smeared with the same mastic on top of it.

Compliance with the conditions and technology of the foundation, even for a light wooden house, is a guarantee of its safety, long-term and trouble-free operation. Starting the construction or assembly of a wooden house, the home master should carefully approach the issue of laying its foundation.

Foundation device

In order to build a wooden house from a bar or a log, it is necessary to build a foundation at the first stage. Among the many options and varieties of foundations, tape is ideal, since its bearing capacity corresponds to the expected load. To carry out the work on the construction of a strip foundation, it is possible to contact a specialized company for ordering construction work or by making a detailed study of the task of doing the work yourself.

The main positive moment when building a foundation with your own hands is the possibility of saving a large amount of financial resources.

A competent approach to the construction of the foundation becomes a guarantee that during the operation and subsequent shrinkage of the structure it will be possible to avoid the occurrence of distortions, which can be if the work is carried out with an incomplete understanding of the process and the assumption of certain errors.

• The progress of the work and the necessary materials for its implementation are described in the material presented below.
• The list of materials required for the manufacture of the foundation is also given below.

In order to proceed to the process of building a strip foundation for a wooden house with your own hands, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the basic information regarding the filling technology.

The work process is divided into several stages presented below:

1. The device of a strip foundation, in contrast to such a type as a columnar foundation, consists in the need to perform a detailed calculation of the supporting structure of the walls of the external and internal location according to the existing plan for the structure of a timber house, which will be erected on the foundation.
2. Based on the available information, it becomes obvious that the strip type of foundation is optimally suited for buildings with a low number of storeys not exceeding two floors or one full-fledged floor and an attic room, which is carried out depending on the possibility of a constructive plan.
3. Work on the manufacture of the strip foundation is carried out in the warm and dry season. The summer months and the beginning of autumn are optimally suited for this.

Strip foundation design

This is what the design of the strip foundation looks like

After deciding that a strip foundation for a wooden house with your own hands is the most acceptable way to build a structure, it is necessary to carry out a set of actions in order to carry out work on the design of the future foundation. Without the preparatory work of a proper plan, it is not possible to obtain a high-quality end result that will meet certain requirements for such types of foundation.

So, it is possible to order the calculation in a specialized construction company. Based on the provided documentation and the building plan, engineers will perform the necessary calculations, according to which consumables are purchased. It is also necessary to determine the work plan and select the type of filling the foundation, since it is possible to make a calculation both for the manufacture of such a foundation as a monolithic foundation, the distinctive feature of which is the filling of the trenches with a concrete mixture in order to give certain characteristics to the foundation.

So, in order to design the required type of strip foundation, you must:

1. Determine the pressure indicator due to the construction of the structure, take into account that this indicator is directly related to the depth of the internal contours, which can be from 2 meters to 2 meters 40 centimeters;
2. The process of performing the calculation of the outer upper edge is carried out taking into account the need to fulfill a technological niche equal to 40 centimeters, in some cases, depending on the type of soil, it is allowed to reduce this indicator to a value of 20-25 centimeters;
3. Calculate the amount of material needed to make the substrate, which should be equal to an indicator not exceeding 40 centimeters. The size of the consumable material, which is gravel or crushed stone, should not have a granulation larger than 5 centimeters, this is a necessary condition that requires strict observance in order to obtain a high quality result.

Recommendation!!! If it is necessary to perform a strip foundation, it is necessary to first monitor the soil on which it is planned to carry out construction. The construction of a foundation in soil with a high content of sand and, as a result, having unstable characteristics, is not considered cost-effective, since it is possible to obtain an end result that, over a certain period of operation, can change its geometry. Since the type of soil will contribute to the emergence of a process of gradual movement and deformation of the object.

Territory marking device for tape type foundation

After all the steps have been taken to design a strip foundation for a wooden house built by one's own hands, it is necessary to mark the territory. To do this, you should follow the main steps drawn up in order to make it easier to carry out the necessary work:

Stages of construction of a strip foundation

After completing the work related to the preparation of a detailed plan and subsequent marking of the future foundation, it is necessary to proceed to the next stage of work associated with the implementation of a series of sequential actions. According to the above instructions, in order to obtain a high-quality strip foundation for a wooden house with your own hands, you must:

1. We dig a trench according to the previously applied markings with a width of 1.5 meters and a depth of up to 2.5 meters. In order to competently carry out this stage of work, the best option is to use a bayonet-type shovel, with the help of which the time for carrying out work is reduced several times (just kidding). In addition, it is recommended to use auxiliary force in order to quickly complete this stage of work;
2. After you have dug a trench, you need to mount the formwork -;
3. At this stage, the reinforcing elements are fixed, consisting of metal rods with a diameter of up to 1.5 centimeters and a length of 2 to 2.5 meters, placed at one end in the soil, and at the other in a strictly horizontal intersection of the structure, it is also necessary to place horizontal elements in order to obtain a certain structure contributing to the increase in the bearing capacity of the device - more;
4. The pillow is backfilled using a hydrogenous material. The thickness of the pillow should be equal to a value equal to 30-50 centimeters;
5. After completing the above preparatory work, the stage of pouring the base with a concrete mixture begins. For these purposes, it is possible to rent a portable concrete mixer for a day, in which the necessary mixture is prepared. It is also possible to purchase the necessary concrete mix at a factory engaged in the manufacture of reinforced concrete structures. Each person chooses the best option based on personal preferences;
6. After pouring, it is necessary to allow the base to dry for 3-5 days in the open air. If the weather is cloudy, it is necessary to build a canopy made of polyethylene in order to prevent moisture from entering the base;
7. After a set period of time, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation using a special bituminous mastic film spread on the surface in one layer and a sheet of rolled roofing material (see)

Comparing the obtained foundation with such a type as a screw foundation, it is noted that it is necessary to competently implement the system of outflow of water formed in the process of precipitation and snow melting, as well as to calculate the depth of groundwater passage - the arrangement of the drainage system. Since illiterate preparatory work can negate the entire range of the above stages performed in an impeccable way.

Principles for the execution of formwork and cushions for the base of the structure, together with the reinforcement of the foundation

In order to correctly perform the formwork, you must follow the instructions given:

Observing all the recommendations and stages of work after the expiration of the time required for the construction process of the elements in question, the bases proceed to the final step, which is the pouring of the structure with a concrete mixture and the possibility of the necessary time for the concrete to dry completely, after which it is allowed to remove the external formwork and finish the facade with decorative elements .

Price determinant of work on the construction of a strip foundation in Moscow and the regions

In order to build a log house, it is necessary to prepare a foundation for it. The optimally suitable option for this type of construction is the strip foundation, which, among many advantages, has a very short production time. The price category for such work also implies stopping the choice on this base option.

In order to determine the price range for the foundation, both in Moscow and in the regions, it is necessary to determine the type of foundation required, since this indicator directly affects the cost of work and the price category of the material used.

The choice is made from the following available types;

1. prefabricated strip foundation from prefabricated reinforced concrete blocks;
2. monolithic foundation using formwork manufacturing technology;
3. strip-type foundation, carried out at a shallow depth, using a technology that provides for the construction of piles, which are offices for pouring a monolithic base.

Each of the three options is good in its own way and is ideal for both a wooden house and a sauna made of timber, rounded logs or a light wooden structure.

In the case of the purchase of consumables by the customer, the price of the issue in many companies conducting work on this plan is determined by the framework of 2000-2500 rubles per 1 square meter of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future structure.

finished foundation

In the event that the purchase of materials is also carried out by the organization conducting all the work on the construction of the strip foundation. By compiling all the proposals of this plan available on the market, the specialists came to the result, according to which, in order to carry out work of a similar plan with a full purchase of consumables. And also their delivery to the place of work on the construction of the base of the structure will cost the consumer an amount equal to 8000-9000 rubles per 1 square meter of the area to be trimmed.

As for the process of making payment for ordering such services in specialized companies. Thus, in the first option, when only the work itself is paid using the available material, the contract for the provision of services prescribes the payment of the necessary amount for the completion of all work on the construction of the foundation. Although in a number of cases, organizations provide for an initial contribution, ranging from 15 to 25% of the total amount claimed for this type of work.

In the case of the second option, a prerequisite for starting the construction of the foundation provides for the payment of the full cost of materials that need to be purchased. The works themselves are paid after the fact, unless otherwise specified in the contract. Thus, it is argued that the process of paying for work of such a plan is carried out in accordance with the paragraph prescribed in the document, which provides for taking into account all possible nuances and coordinating the actions of both participants in the process. The expediency of resorting to ordering services from a specialized company is relevant if there is a lack of free time to do the work of this plan with your own hands.

Taking into account all the above recommendations, and a detailed description of the work process, making a decision on the feasibility of doing the work with your own hands becomes a more relevant and less costly way to build a foundation. It is noted that a person who does not have the necessary experience to carry out work of such a plan, according to a responsible attitude to business and compliance with all recommendations, can complete the main work in 3-5 days.

The foundation is the foundation of the house. The heavier the house, the more solid the foundation must be. Since a wooden house is relatively light, there may be several options for the foundation for it. But this does not mean that the choice should be approached carelessly - here it is doubly important to choose the right option, given the complexity of the natural material, because organic matter can begin to break down at the site of exposure to moisture, air and soil three times faster. Plus, not in the last place is often a financial issue. As a result, which foundation is better for a wooden house, you have to choose based on the landscape of the site and the available budget.

The foundation for a wooden house can be made of different materials.

Types of foundations that can be used for a house

There are only four main types of foundations, and almost all of them can be used to build a wooden house. Since the weight of a wooden house is usually relatively small, the main choice is made based on the characteristics of the soil and the financial issue.

Concrete belt

The strip foundation for a wooden house is one of the most beloved by our compatriots and, perhaps, the most reliable. Its width is the same around the entire perimeter, and leaves 50 cm "plus" to the width of the walls.

It is divided into three subspecies: deep, shallow and not buried. Deeply buried is designed for "difficult" conditions: in the presence of basements (garage, basement), multi-storey buildings, heaving soil on the site, a large freezing depth. It is designed to stably hold the building even with changing weather conditions, ground movement. It is believed that such a foundation should be buried at least 200 mm lower than the freezing depth (the values ​​\u200b\u200bfor a certain latitude are known and can be easily recognized from a reference book).

Classic strip foundation for a wooden house

If the soil allows, then for the construction of low-rise wooden houses, a shallow foundation is most often used - it is buried to a depth of about 500-700 mm, which, although less than the freezing depth, is quite enough to hold a light house. And, of course, it will cost much less than a deep-buried tape.

In the case of very light buildings (sheds or utility rooms), you can get by with a non-buried foundation. This type of foundation can be made of concrete or brick, stone or blocks.

A relative novelty in the construction market is the foundation of fixed formwork, which consists of prefabricated elements that are combined into blocks, and then concrete is poured into them.

Unburied foundation - in fact, it is a basement on a sand cushion

The production time for any strip foundation is about a month, since after pouring it is necessary to wait a certain time until the concrete gains design strength.

Slab concrete monolithic

A slab foundation is simply a large concrete slab. It is a good choice for heaving and moving soils, as the slab base has the ability to move with the soil when it shifts. You should not think that the house will drive around the site - moving soil means displacements of a couple of centimeters per year, but even such values ​​\u200b\u200bcan cause cracks to appear on the walls when using a strip base.

The manufacture of a monolithic foundation cannot be called an easy task - in terms of installation time, they are approximately equal to tape ones. It also requires clearing the site, deepening, pouring concrete - and, given the harsh conditions, some experts ask for a grade not lower than M400, in principle, given the cost, M150 can be dispensed with, but these are very minimal requirements. A big problem is also the uniform drying of the surface of the slab (a large area dries poorly, and it will take a long time to completely dry and start the next stage of work). It will also be necessary to arrange a sand cushion for cement, a blind area on the finished foundation and waterproofing (as a means of protecting concrete from water - a film or special compounds).

Finished slab foundation

Pile: steel screw or concrete driven

A pile foundation for a wooden house is a good choice for a site where there are problems with groundwater, and, in addition, the site itself has irregularities, the alignment of which will require a significant application of forces. Competent calculation of the pile field makes such a foundation reliable and stable. In addition, the cost of a pile foundation is significantly lower than a concrete one, and installation is carried out in one day.

The main disadvantage is that with a pile foundation it will not be possible to make a basement or basement in the house. Auxiliary buildings on the same foundation as the piles are undesirable - due to the elevation above the ground. Checking into the garage, for example, will not be very practical.

Video description

What are the pros and cons of a pile screw foundation? Is it possible to make a quality foundation for little money? See in this video:

The installation technology itself is quite simple - a drill is taken, the piles are screwed into the ground, below the freezing level, then poured with concrete. If the piles are concrete, then they are driven into the pile to the required depth. Immediately after the installation of the pile field, you can proceed to the next stages of construction.

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of wooden houses from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Columnar: brick, block or concrete

Pillar foundations do exist as a separate type of foundation, but it must immediately be noted that they cannot be used for the construction of a residential building.

In general, this is an inexpensive and easily erected foundation, which is a pit, 50-70 cm deep, on the bottom of which sand and crushed stone pillows are laid, on top of which the pillar itself is arranged.

The methods of making "pillars" are completely different - bricks, pouring concrete into the formwork, asbestos pipes, ready-made blocks. As with any technology that uses concrete, care must be taken to ensure that sand cushions, formwork and reinforcement are provided when making the foundations on site.

The distance between the pillars, despite the irregularities, should not be more than 1.5-2 m, in addition, at the corners of the building and at the intersection and junction of the walls, the pillars must be mandatory. Pillar bases are placed almost everywhere, with the exception of floaters (completely unsuitable for construction sites), using special device technologies - for example, TISE, where the pillars "expand" at the bottom, giving additional structural strength. But even when using this technology, one should also take care of additional insulation and waterproofing, and these works must be performed together with the installation of walls (that is, the places where the pillars adjoin the walls are processed together).

Considering that columnar foundations are suitable only for ultra-light buildings - gazebos and the like, it can be argued that they do not have so many shortcomings. But in any case, such bases are not suitable for complex soils - loose, with a large freezing depth.

No specialist will apply such a basis for a residential building. In addition, it is strongly not recommended to experiment with such a foundation when building a house by the efforts of "gray" construction teams, who do not care what to build, because they do not bear warranty obligations.

If the soil is at least a little mobile or prone to heaving (and usually it is), then the elimination of the consequences will result in a serious penny.

Incorrect use of the columnar foundation - the work will have to be redone

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house design services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Video description

What work will have to be done if the columnar base is squeezed out by frost heaving, see the video:

Pros and cons of a pile-screw base

After considering the main types of foundation, it would seem that the choice of a pile-screw foundation is the most optimal, however, there are both advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages:

Installation speed - it is enough to determine the freezing depth and order a drill, and literally in a day the piles will be installed;

Simple process - does not require additional time and money;

Versatility - good performance of this type of foundation was obtained on all types of soil, including peat;

There are only two disadvantages, but they must be taken into account:

The complexity of the calculation - the heavier the building and the more complex its shape, the more careful calculations will be required;

If a geological examination of the soil was not carried out before the installation of the pile field, then in the case of loose or peaty soil, a certain percentage of subsidence of the structure is possible - unfortunately, often uneven.

Pile field for a wooden house

Screw foundation with channel or timber strapping

If a screw foundation is chosen for a wooden house, then after installation it is necessary to decide on the type of strapping, which is divided into strapping with a beam and a channel.

Strapping is a way to stabilize the foundation of piles after they have already been installed and concreted.

Tying with a bar looks good under wooden buildings - baths and houses. The main requirement is that all piles be cut at the same height, but then the strapping can play the role of the lower crown of your log house, given that the floor logs are located high enough (at least 2-3 crowns higher).

A channel (rolled metal in the form of the letter “P”, when viewed from the side) is used when it is difficult to align all the piles (for example, there are too many of them), and, in addition, the channel holds heavier structures. It is laid along the entire perimeter and along the load-bearing partitions. It will come out a little more expensive, because with this technology you will need to order special equipment. The channel can be laid either on top of the piles (more common) or between them. It is also worth considering that tying with a channel should be performed immediately after the stage of screwing the piles in order to avoid changes in their position.

Anti-corrosion treatment is carried out after the installation of the strapping.

Foundation Selection Criteria

The main criteria are, of course, the condition of the soil and the climatic features of the region:

Freezing depth - the larger it is, the deeper the foundation should lie;

Material consumption is also an important criterion;

Aesthetics - the foundation of the house should be combined with the environment and the building itself;

The position of the house - if possible, it is worth choosing places away from cliffs and ravines;

Plinth and its use - is the device planned in the basement of a garage or other auxiliary premises? Depending on the answer to this question, you will need to use a certain type of foundation;

Video description

What are the types of foundation? How is the construction of the foundation and how much does it cost? See all this and more in this issue.

The size of the house - the larger and heavier the house, the stronger the foundation will be needed;

The relief of the site - it is worth evaluating in advance the possibilities for leveling the soil, if there are none, then you may need a pile or column foundation;

The soil and its features - the bearing capacity strongly depends on this, and directly - the type of recommended base;

Depth of water - groundwater, if properly neglected, can greatly spoil the soil and "wash" the foundation.

If you do not make slopes and do not take into account groundwater, the ground near the foundation will constantly get wet

Installation steps

Regardless of the choice of base type, it all starts like this:

First, a geodetic study of the soil is carried out and a comparison of the results with reference information (how much the soil freezes through in this strip, what is the composition of the soil, what is nearby - floaters, ravines);

The choice of the type of foundation itself is made, using the information received and the budget;

Drawings with markings, land surveying are being carried out;

Video description

How the markup is performed is shown in the following video:

Soil preparation includes uprooting stumps and trees, clearing the area of ​​debris, as well as removing the topsoil;

In the case of a tiled and strip foundation, a foundation pit is dug;

Direct work on the foundation itself (developing a sand cushion, twisting and concreting piles, pouring slabs or pillars);

Auxiliary works (piping, waterproofing, cutting piles, etc.).

The time and cost of work depends on the type of foundation, soil characteristics and area. On average, the time can be as much as a week or two for the installation of a pile foundation in a strapping with a beam, up to several months for the preparation of a tiled foundation in difficult conditions.

The main problem of working with large volumes of concrete is a long drying time.

Tape foundation for a bath

Often, a strip foundation is the best choice for building a wooden bath. In addition to the reliability of the design, this option can also be considered from the side of aesthetics - to play on the contrast of materials.

For the construction of a bath, a shallow strip foundation is recommended - it is quite enough to hold a not too heavy structure. If the soil is heaving, and the freezing is deep (over 1.5 m), you will have to opt for a deep strip foundation.

Conclusion

Even knowing what types of foundations exist, stopping at any of them without a geodetic examination of the soil will be a big mistake, fraught with the need to redo the work done in the future. Therefore, it is strongly recommended that when building a house, contact a competent construction company that will do all the work quickly, and, importantly, once.