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Where does siding begin? Do-it-yourself siding of a wooden house: recommendations for finishing

27.07.2023

Sheathing a house with siding is possible even for a beginner. It is enough to know the procedure and some of the nuances of installation. If you decide to choose vinyl siding as a facing material, do-it-yourself installation is more than simple.

PVC siding is flexible and pliable, which reduces the likelihood of panel damage and injury. A step-by-step guide will allow you to sheathe the facade of the house with siding, even without construction experience.

Based on the material below, you will learn how to fix the siding to the wall correctly.

For greater clarity, each stage is accompanied by photos, diagrams, drawings and videos.

Please note that these instructions are for installing vinyl siding, which is different from metal siding.

Knife. Who does not know how to cut vinyl siding: vinyl is a soft material, it can be easily cut with a sharp knife. To do this, you need to designate a groove on the panel. Bend and unbend the strip several times. As a result, it will break according to the intended cut.

Electric jigsaw. Used instead of a knife. It gives a more beautiful cut, and also allows you to speed up the process of preparing panels to size.

Drill or perforator. With their help, it is convenient to increase the holes for fastening hardware or punch new ones.

Screwdriver. For screwing fasteners.
Building level. The laser is very easy to use.
Roulette.

Good to know. If you are going to use a grinder to cut siding panels, this is acceptable. However, keep in mind that at high speeds, the sheet cut will begin to heat up and melt. This will cause it to deform. Therefore, use the grinder at low power.

When starting to clad a house with vinyl siding, always keep in mind that this material has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that a gap of 5-7 mm must be observed between the starting strips, as well as between rows and strips. And if the installation is carried out at a temperature below -10 ° C (which is generally unacceptable from the point of view of common sense, but it is quite customary for domestic practice), then the gaps should be at least 10 mm.

There must also be a gap between the working surface of the material and the fasteners. Below we will talk about this in more detail.

Vinyl siding should rest at least a couple of hours at outdoor temperature before installation begins.

Under no circumstances should siding be screwed through with a self-tapping screw. This approach to installation can lead to cracking of the sheet of material. But, if such a need arose, to fix the sheet not where the nail holes were punched, you must first drill a hole for the hardware, and only then fix the sheet or additional element.

Despite the fact that fastening siding with self-tapping screws is the most common in domestic practice, you can still use fasteners such as nails and staples.

Installation of vinyl siding - instructions

In general, the installation of vinyl siding can be divided into several stages:

fixing the starting bar;
installation of vertical bars (corners and H-connector);
installation of siding panels;
framing window and door openings with siding;
installation of vinyl siding around the arch;
arrangement of protruding elements;
fastening of finishing strips;
soffit installation;
pediment lining.

Good to know: fastening siding to a metal crate or to a wooden one, or even to the base of the wall surface, always starts from the bottom. This allows each subsequent panel to be placed above the previous one. Thus, additional protection of the surface or insulation from moisture is achieved.

1. Installation of the starting bar (starting strip)

Installation of siding panels always takes place using the starting bar. It is attached around the perimeter of the building (or that part of it that is planned to be sheathed).

The initial bar is closed by a number of panels, so there are no special requirements for it. It can be connected from scraps or a bar of a different color can be used.

The starting bar sets the tone for the whole work. It is better to spend more time leveling it than trying to correct even the smallest slope during the installation work.

Before you begin to fasten it, you need to designate the place of the future fastening.

To do this, drive in a nail (screw in a screw) at the lowest level of the wall.

The distance from the nail to the ground should be equal to the width of the starting bar.

Next, stretch the thread between the nails. Check the correct thread tension using the building level. Next, using chalk, draw a line along the thread between the nails. It will indicate the line of attachment of the starting strip.

The more often you use the level, the more correctly and evenly the installation of the siding will be performed.

However, at least every third row of ordinary strips of siding should be checked for the possibility of deviation from the level.

After that fix the bar.

How to attach vinyl siding to a wall

When installing vinyl elements, fasteners must be properly carried out. Namely, it is important to adhere to the following conditions:

- the distance between two adjacent self-tapping screws should be about 250-300 mm.

It is necessary to twist the hardware or hammer in a nail strictly perpendicular to the plane.

- fasten the screws only in the middle of the nail hole, which has an oval appearance, it is this trick that allows the panel to slide when expanding. The correct way is shown in the figure.

- the self-tapping screw is not fully tightened. A gap of 1 mm must be observed between the surface of the material and the head of the self-tapping screw.

The desired gap is achieved in two ways.

First, you can attach a coin.

Secondly, you can twist it all the way, and then loosen it one turn. There should always be a gap of 5-7 mm between two starting bars located in the neighborhood.

The gap compensates for the linear expansion of the material.

Installation of the strip at the corners is not carried out completely. Since a special corner bar is used to arrange the corner.

Using staples as fasteners, you must also maintain a gap of 1 mm.

Good to know. Some builders recommend immediately installing the starting bar on window and door blocks. However, this should not be done, because the need for it does not always arise. The dimensions of the window are not so ideal that ordinary siding strips during installation turn out to be just at the level of the strip.

2. Fastening of vertical strips - corners and H-connector

2.1 Fastening the planks

The corners are set before the installation of the main strips. It is in them that the ordinary panels are wound up.

Mounting a vinyl corner also has its own characteristics:

First, the angle is set to 5-7 mm without touching the ground. When heated, the angle will expand vertically and the gap left will not allow it to deform.

Secondly, it is important to properly fix the screws. As you can see in the figure, the corner is attached starting from the top nail hole. Moreover, the screw is twisted into its upper part. On this self-tapping screw (nail) the whole corner seems to be hanging in the air.

Thus, the material can only expand downwards and to the sides.

The rest and the last screw are twisted in the same way as the starting strip - clearly in the middle of the nail hole.

Thirdly, the lower edges of the corner are cut to the width of the starting bar. This avoids deformation of the material when heated.

It will look as shown in the picture.

Separate cases in the technology of installing vinyl siding

The length of the corner bar is up to 4 meters. But you may need to lengthen the corner.

Mount the lower corner bar, then cut off the fasteners on the sides from the top and “put” on the bottom, leaving a gap of 5 mm for compression under the influence of temperature.

The overlap is 20-25 mm.

The figure shows how to lengthen the bar

Good to know:

The joints at the corners and the H-connector must be at the same level. This will make the appearance of the house more harmonious.
The upper bar of the corner is mounted on the lower one, and not vice versa. This will protect the corner from water leakage.

Since the corners of vinyl siding are flexible, they can be used to trim blunt and sharp corners of a building.

For an obtuse angle, the profile must be pressed down, for an acute one, narrowed.

For the inner corner, the procedure will be similar.

Given the cost of the corners, you can save on them if you mount two J-bars in their place. The installation process is shown in the figure.

2.4. H-profile installation

This type of work also does not take much time and effort. It is important to correctly calculate the location of the bar. Fastening is carried out similarly to fastening corners.

the lower bar is mounted first, and then the upper one;
if necessary, lengthening is cut into pieces of 5-7 mm with perforation (to compensate for expansion);
overlap profiles.

Keep in mind, the starter strips must be adjacent to the H-connector, and not vice versa.

Good to know. You can do without installing an H-shaped profile in this case, the siding strips will overlap.

The photo shows how the wall should look before starting the installation of ordinary siding panels.

3. Installation of ordinary siding panels

We’ll make a reservation right away that ordinary panels can be fixed in a circle, or you can trim one wall. From the point of view of siding installation technology, this does not matter.

Installation takes place in several steps:

3.1. The first strip of siding is inserted into the vertical grooves of the corner or H-shaped profile and fixed with a self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the nail holes.

At the same time, hardware is attached from the center of the panel to the edges, towards the vertical slats.

Good to know.
To make it easier to insert the strip, you need to slightly bend it outward.

As already mentioned, the siding panel starts in the outer or inner corners. In the event that you use a budget mounting option, you can equip the inner panel in the ways shown in the figure.

Don't forget to leave room for expansion.

3.2. The siding panel must be lowered to the initial bar and snapped into place. To do this, you need the strip lock to catch on the starting bar. Never "pull out" the panel. Since in this case the radius of the panel will stretch and the locks will be deformed. How to install the siding panel correctly - see the picture.

Good to know.
If, after the lock of the next strip snaps onto the lock of the previous one, the panel can be moved horizontally, then its installation was carried out according to the rules.

3.3. After the panel is installed, it can be fixed with hardware.

3.4. All remaining rows, with the exception of the last one, are performed in the same sequence.

If you need to connect the panels together, and you did not provide an H-profile or you do not like how it looks, you can do it as follows.

First, remove the interlock from the panel.
Secondly, lay two sheets on top of each other.
Thirdly, put the cut off part of the sheet under the lock.

The photo shows what it looks like in practice.

For your information:

Some manufacturers produce panels without locking on the end of the siding sheet.
Panels at the joints are not sealed.
The mounting line can be flat, or it can be offset.

4. Installation of a window siding strip near window and door openings

There are two possible ways of arranging openings relative to the wall surface.

in one plane. In this case, the openings are simply sheathed around the perimeter with J-profiles and the siding panel is already inserted into them.

with slope arrangement. With this arrangement, the panels are installed in the manner indicated in the figure.

In practice, it looks like it is shown in the photo.

Getting the panel into such a design is also not difficult. Because the vinyl is quite flexible, the panel is simply bent slightly and installed into the J-profile.

The main thing here is to properly cut the strip of siding.

Docking ears are holes in the strip of material designed for fastening hardware. They are made with a punch.

5. Installation of vinyl siding around the arch

If the openings in your house end in an arch, this is not a problem for installing plastic siding.

Finishing an arch with vinyl siding differs from finishing a regular opening only in the way the J-bar is installed.

Flexible J-bar greatly simplifies the finishing of arched openings. To do this, notches are made on the profile and the smaller the radius, the more often notches should be made.

The process is clearly shown in the photo.

Installation of siding around protruding objects occurs by cutting the strip and fastening it with an overlap.

7. Installation of finishing strips and the last row of siding panels

It is done like this - first the finishing bar is fixed.

Then the distance from the last ordinary strip is measured from it. This is the value that the last siding panel should correspond to.

The strip is bent horizontally in an arc and wound into the lock and the finish bar.

8. Installation of siding soffit

8.1. With wind bar

If the frontal board is small, it can be closed with a wind bar. To do this, a finishing bar is mounted along the upper edge of the frontal board, and the wind bar is attached so that its upper part is fixed by the finishing profile.

Then a J-profile is attached to the wall and a soffit is installed between it and the wind bar.

In this case, the soffit can be installed in one of the two ways shown in the diagram.

In this way, installation is carried out if the frontal board is wider than the wind bar.

In this case, the outer corner is attached to the edge of the frontal board, and the J-profile on both sides of it at the required distance. A soffit of the desired size is cut out and wound up between one of the parts of the corner and the J-bar.

Similarly, the finishing on the second side.

It is not recommended to mount a dark-colored soffit in this way, since it is highly prone to fading on the frontal bar.

9. Mounting the gable with siding

Installing a gable is no different from installing ordinary siding strips. Produced as follows:

9.1. installation of the starting line. Occurs in full accordance with the rules described above.

Good to know:
You can use all the remnants of the J-profile that you have accumulated during your work to finish the pediment. It is not visible under the roofing material anyway.

This work is done as shown in the photo.

To do this, the J-strips must be laid on top of each other and cut diagonally on the front. Let's not forget the gap.

9.5. Plank preparation.

In order to cut off the siding strip correctly, you need to measure the angle of inclination of the roof slope.

This can be done using a simple trick: put a piece of a strip of material to the surface of the pediment, and the whole panel is level with the J-profile.

Then you need to draw a sharpened pencil over the overlap of the sheets. The result will be an accurate angle of inclination. Next, you should remove a short piece and cut off the siding along the line.

The process is more clearly shown in the drawing above.

Cut the corner of the last siding panel and bring it into the J-profile.

This is an exceptional case in the installation of vinyl siding, in which the hardware or nail hits the panel through and through.

Installation of vinyl siding - video instruction

Conclusion

In this article, we tried to reveal all the features of installing vinyl siding. We hope now you know how to mount facade siding with your own hands, as well as components for it.

There is nothing difficult in the question of how to sheathe a wooden house with siding. Even a non-professional builder can do it. But about what pitfalls are hidden behind this decision, even employees of construction companies do not always know.

The main nuances of how to sheathe wooden houses with siding

There are rules that are important to follow regardless of the chosen siding material. Of course, this significantly increases the cost of installation, but avoids annoying mistakes:

Under no circumstances should drywall profiles be used as sheathing for siding - they are not designed for outdoor use and may not withstand the load.
It is better to use wooden substrates to level the lathing from high-moisture bars. Even strong hangers with a thickness of 0.9 mm may not withstand the curvature of the bars during the drying process.

First, the corner bars are leveled and fastened, then the bars between them and at the very end - the bars around the openings. For horizontal siding, a vertical crate is made, for vertical - horizontal.

The crate is made in increments of 30-40 cm - it depends on the panels themselves, since the screws are screwed clearly in the center of the mounting hole. It is also impossible to screw the screws all the way, the gap between the cap and the panel should be 1 mm - for the thermal expansion of the material. If the panels are loosely fastened, even with a slight wind, the whole house will rattle.

Installation of siding begins with the installation of guides. The ebb is attached to the plinth first, then the corner profiles, window trims and J-profiles around the doors. At the end, the finishing bar is mounted.
The starting profile is screwed over the ebb, the first panel is attached to it until it clicks and fixed with self-tapping screws. Panels are laid from bottom to top. A gap of 1 cm should be left between the edges of the slats and the guide elements to ensure thermal expansion.

The video shows the consequences of not following the installation instructions.

Vinyl siding - cheap and fast

Vinyl siding is chosen for its low cost and speed of installation. With proper skill, you can sheathe the entire facade in one day. It does not need to be painted, plastic does not require special care and coating with protective solutions.

But there are a few downsides to be aware of:

in the cold, plastic becomes brittle;
fades in the sun - it is better to choose panels that are not painted on the outside, but made of completely plain vinyl;
dark plastic is subject to much greater expansion, so its use is quite difficult, as it requires very careful and precise installation.

Finishing with metal siding - reliable and practical

Metal siding will cost much more than vinyl siding, but will also last longer. It does not burn out so much, does not deform and is resistant to external influences. Its only disadvantage is the high noise level - a strong oblique downpour will create an indescribable feeling for everyone who wants to sit next to it under a canopy.

Wood siding - beautiful and durable

Wood paneling requires perseverance and certain carpentry skills. But it will last a long time, delighting more than one generation of residents with its appearance. Only dry sawn board is suitable for wood siding. Planed is not suitable - because of the smooth structure, it does not absorb glazing antiseptics well.

With vertical sheathing, the bottom board is fastened with galvanized nails with a hat, the top one overlaps the bottom one at the attachment points and is nailed with nails without hats. Thanks to vertical furrows, moisture does not linger on the walls, which allows the facade to maintain a beautiful and well-groomed appearance for a long time without additional finishing.

Sheathing with siding over lining - how to do it right

But you need to take into account that:

the lining must be strong, otherwise the bars or profiles screwed to it can be torn off by the wind along with the siding;
it is pointless to insulate the house over the old lining, because there is an air gap between it and the house;
it is not necessary to cover the lining with membranes, although it is desirable - a double ventilation gap (between the house and the sheathing, and between the sheathing and siding) will provide sufficient ventilation so that the lining does not rot;
to protect the lining from moisture ingress through cracks in the siding, you can use simple waterproofing only if there is an air gap between the house and the old finish, otherwise you will have to spend money on a more expensive vapor-permeable membrane.

If there are doubts about the strength of the old skin, or it has already begun to rot, it is advisable to remove it. You will also have to remove the lining if there is no confidence in the correct installation of the insulation and the presence of a ventilation gap. After all, it is better to do it right once than to constantly correct past mistakes.

Laying insulation under siding - what you need to remember

When insulating a wooden house, which will subsequently be finished with siding, one must not forget that:

There is another controversial point, which you will have to decide on your own - whether to protect the wooden walls from possible wet insulation with another layer of wind protection. On the one hand, the house continues to breathe, the effect of a greenhouse is not created, while the wooden structures are reliably insulated. On the other hand, you can save on the film, because there is little moisture in the insulation if its thickness is chosen correctly, and the dew point is on the outer layer, and not the inner one.

There is no need to make an air gap between the insulation and the wall of the house - the effect of insulation itself is nullified. According to the same principle, the material and thickness of the siding does not play a special role - it is in no way a way to insulate the house. But as a windscreen, this is an excellent option.
Getting a beautiful home is not so difficult, the main thing is to follow the instructions clearly!

06.08.2016 0 comments

Very often there is a decision to ennoble the exterior of a house that is made of wood. Do-it-yourself siding of a wooden house is practiced. This will save money, the shortage of which many people experience.

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Material selection

A wooden house is a common feature of our cities and towns. Often wooden buildings have a wretched appearance, which spoils the mood and appearance of the territory. But even old walls do not retain heat well, they freeze faster in the cold period. Siding treatment solves both problems. Wood is a tricky material. Dealing with it will require skill and patience. Among the variety of materials for cladding, vinyl siding is most suitable. It is light, relatively strong and beautiful. There is a great selection of colors and shades. Wooden buildings very rarely have a strong foundation. And this means that it will not withstand the heavier facing material. You can save a lot on this and when building a new house. But the owner has the right to use any other type of siding.

Calculation of the amount of material

It is foolish to start this responsible work without counting. An insufficient quantity will force you to make an additional purchase. It may happen that the tone of the strips you have chosen ends up in the supermarket. And then you have to freeze the process, or finish it with a different shade. Over-purchasing will incur additional costs. When calculating the quantity, it is necessary to take into account a small margin in case of marriage.

You will need to calculate the exact area of \u200b\u200bthe walls, take away windows and doorways. Part of the material will be required for slopes, design of ventilation ducts. It is important to know that when mounting the strips go behind each other. But on most packs the consumption of material per unit area is indicated. If this information is not available, then you can calculate the amount using the technical drawing.

List of material and accessories

It is advisable to purchase everything at once, do not delay the process by going to the distribution network. Do-it-yourself siding of a wooden house or building will require:

outside corners. Their length is 300 centimeters.
Internal corners. Their length is similar.
Starting bar. Its size is 380 cm. For the exact volume, we consider the perimeter, subtract the size of the doorways.
J profile. It is necessary where extensions fit the walls of the house. Its length is 3.8 m.
Window slats. Their length is 300 cm.
Drains for windows. They are necessary if you have an old window without reflux.
Profile "H". This is the connecting element. It joins the connected strips.
Self-tapping screws. The technology of working with wood requires the use of only galvanized self-tapping screws for fastening with a press washer. Recommended length: 25 - 30 mm. One square takes up to 20 units.
U-shaped brackets.
Wind board, spotlights. These elements are useful for arranging cornices.
Drain plank. Platbands. Wide J-profiles. All this is used extremely rarely, it is required to equip the basement, which can be in line with the wall.

Tools, equipment

It is difficult to do any work with bare hands. Installation and all other work will require:

Hammer, preferably rubber.
Roulette.
Brush for cleaning the walls from debris.
Level, twine, plumb line.
Screwdriver.
Screwdriver.
Pliers.
Scissors for iron.
"Bulgarian" or jigsaw for cutting panels.

Siding installation steps

Preparatory stage

Every job starts with cleaning. The wall of the house should not be dirty, dusty. Remove traces of old lining. It is advisable to treat the surface with a powerful antiseptic primer. Rotten places and areas with mold should be treated with sandpaper and even a planer. Then comes the installation of wind and vapor barrier. A film of waterproof material must be fixed directly to the wall of the house. It is mistakenly attached to the frame of the crate. Sheathing a house with siding requires space for ventilation between the wind and vapor barrier and the cladding material. Proper ventilation will prevent mold and mildew. It may be necessary to dismantle the protruding elements of the building. If you plan to insulate the house, then you should familiarize yourself with the technology: how and with what to insulate a wooden house from the outside.

Frame installation

Metal carcass

There are many options for frame construction for this purpose. Sheathing with siding of a wooden house is impossible without a "skeleton". This operation is not complicated, but subtleties and nuances are present. The main task of the frame is to maintain an ideal plane for the future siding wall.. Guide rails will be attached to the frame.

As a frame material, you can choose wood, galvanized profile. The advantage is to give metal: it is difficult to pick up wooden planks that have undergone serious drying. Metal resists deformation better, does not burn, does not rot. It is much lighter than wood. A freshly cut tree will be a source of high humidity. Efforts must be made to prevent deformation of the wooden frame. There are several important steps:

wooden frame

Treat the timber with an antiseptic.
Choose an even beam.
The desired fastening step is 30 centimeters.

The siding crate should have a step of 30 to 40 centimeters around the entire perimeter of the building. The installation of the frame begins with the installation of the corner profile. It is important to accurately and evenly set these elements. You will need a plumb line or building level. For precise installation of the frame, string is pulled along the length of the wall from below and along all available openings.

Note! When installing horizontal siding, the crate is installed vertically. And when installing vertical siding, the crate is installed horizontally.

Siding installation steps

It is worth knowing that vinyl sanding is highly susceptible to thermal expansion. With the onset of frost, it becomes brittle and not strong enough. It is best to do this work in the warm season, but not in the heat. Prepared raw materials should be protected from direct sunlight. We must not forget:

Siding expands when heated. The recommended gap between the ends of the slats is 5 mm. This also applies to connecting elements.
When working in frost, the gap should be 1 cm!
The basic technology requires an overlap when connecting the planks. The recommended value is 2 mm. If this is not sustained, then cracks will appear at sub-zero temperatures.

It is better to start installation by installing a drainage system on the base. This is a solid structure, it will not be difficult to strengthen it. The situation is more difficult with the installation of the mounting plate - it bends. It is she who will set the degree of "evenness" of the entire structure. Then install the corner profiles. If the standard length in height is not enough, then you can add a cut piece. The top profile must be installed with an overlap on the panel below. The overlap must be several tens of millimeters.

The mounting bar must be a few millimeters higher than the lower end of the corner profile. Window openings and doorways are edged with a J-profile. The main panels are installed in guides. The starting level is attached to the starting bar. It is obliged to sound a characteristic sound in the form of a click of the lock from below. This means that the bar has fallen into place. At the top, the panel is held with self-tapping screws. They should be located in the middle of the oblong holes. The distance between the screws is 45 cm. The panel should have a slight play. The finishing horizontal strip will complete the design.

For a more detailed study of the sheathing of a wooden house with siding, we recommend that you watch the following video:

Installation subtleties

There are many useful tips when doing this job. They will help to properly sheathe a wooden house with siding. Here are some:

Invite an assistant, an assistant.
Do not use short cuts when installing corner strips. It's ugly, not practical. They are very difficult to decorate. Use them from the back of the building.
Be sure to use connectors. The ends must not be overlapped. These places will be deformed under the influence of weather.
The stock of material should be between 5 and 10%!
Do not fully screw in the screws. Leave a couple of millimeters. This will prevent damage to the material and cracking. The galvanized surface of fasteners will prevent oxidation.
Try to use scaffolding. Working on stairs is more difficult and dangerous.
If the wires supplying electricity to the house interfere, you will need to call an electrician to transfer them.
Even when facing a new house, it is not recommended to attach the strip directly to the wall.

Additionally

It will be more difficult to sheathe a log house with siding. You may need to trim some logs. The gaps between the logs can be foamed. Use powerful U-shaped mounts. Their recommended thickness is 1 mm. A wise decision is to work as an assistant for a few days in a cladding construction team for a nominal fee. The experience and skills gained will pay dividends. Then you can easily perform this operation with your own hands, and even earn money.

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Siding is a building material that allows you to quickly, with little labor and money, give a private house an attractive appearance. Siding sheathing is used most of all to renovate old, but still quite solid buildings, see fig. Installation of siding is technologically very simple, it does not require careful preparation of the underlying surface, complex working skills and special tools.

At the same time, the cost of cladding work by a hired team is 50-60% of the cost of the material, which will amount to at least 12,000 rubles for a medium-sized house. savings in case of self-execution. The very same workflow for a person who knows how to make something, but who has taken up siding for the first time, takes 5-12 working days.

In addition, finishing the house with siding in itself noticeably warms it. And it is possible (and recommended) to combine with plating work. At the same time, it is significantly simplified and cheaper without compromising efficiency. With independent siding with simultaneous insulation, the total cost of work drops by at least half, fuel consumption for heating in winter is reduced by 25-35% in mid-latitudes, and electricity consumption for air conditioning in summer is reduced by 15-20%. Raise your last year's expenses for these budget items, estimate the savings in money - you probably won’t have to give more weighty arguments in favor of ennobling the house with siding with your own hands.

Where did he come from?

Siding in translation means ... tes. Yes, yes, those same seasoned cut-to-size and planed wooden boards, superimposed on the sheathed surface or frame in a herringbone pattern. Initially, sheathing was used in shipbuilding; Pleasure boats-fofans made using this technology can still be found in some places.

They came up with the lining of the nap either the Vikings, or our coast-dwellers, now you can’t make out. Both of them needed strong, light, durable and low-maintenance ships, suitable for sailing among the ice. In the powers whose fleets sailed to low latitudes, ship plating did not take root, and then was completely forgotten - it is extremely prone to fouling.

The northern peoples soon, for the sake of saving wood scarce beyond the Arctic Circle, for greater strength and durability of buildings, began to sheathe houses with boards. This made it possible to build faster in new places, so the plank buildings were especially popular among the Russian pioneers. The Anglo-Saxons met them in Canada and Alaska, which was then a Russian possession. In general, there were many of our compatriots in America; on the map south to San Francisco and east to Detroit, there are the names Fort Russian, Russian Point, etc.

The practical Americans with a developed engineering streak fell in love with siding, and plank private houses spread widely there, although the cowboys from the Wild West themselves hardly suspected that the buildings in their settlements were built according to Russian technology. Today, siding is made from modern construction materials; the parts are connected with latches. This saved the siding from the only drawback of its progenitor - the obligatory caulking of seams, which had to be replaced annually.

Why this article?

Each batch of siding panels (boards) and shaped fasteners for them - extensions - must be accompanied by detailed instructions for assembling the coating. Sellers, as a rule, give a free copy when buying, and there are enough materials on this topic on the Internet.

But you can’t foresee everything in the instructions, there are always nuances, the neglect of which can complicate the work and worsen its quality, although siding is generally very tolerant of minor deviations from the installation technology. On the other hand, these minor deviations can, depending on specific conditions, be deliberately allowed for the sake of simplifying and reducing the cost of work. These are the subtleties that will be discussed further.

How is siding applied?

There are a lot of materials for assembling siding with your own hands, but the typical sheathing scheme recommended by leading manufacturers is somehow lost in them, see fig. on right:

Superimposed on the wall.
The first one (remote strips) is mounted for insulation.
Insulation is applied in two layers.
A second crate is mounted on top of it.
Siding is installed.

Let's say right away - almost no one ever does this, it's too complicated and expensive. Why is it recommended? Based on the worst case of execution - mineral wool insulation. So that it does not immediately get wet from the outside, does not sleep and does not stop insulating anything, ventilation gaps are needed on both sides of the insulation layer, and its layers must be applied with a shift of the plates.

Insulation under siding is most often made of expanded polystyrene. Moreover, since it is sufficiently protected from the weather and the Sun by the sheathing itself and is not loaded with plaster, it is possible to use not expensive EPPS, but the cheapest packaging one. The device of the simplified sheathing considered below assumes that they are insulated.

Video: about siding on the example of an old house

Preparing for sheathing

Complex and / or time-consuming work to prepare for siding will not be required. An external inspection of the building and several measurements are enough, which will take no more than half a day. At the same time, it may be necessary to “strap” the influx of masonry mortar with the butt, drive in protruding nails and eliminate other small, over 6 mm high, protrusions.

Inspection

During the inspection of the house, first of all, the general unevenness of planes and lines is determined with a long, even rail and cord / tape measure: walls, basement pedestal, corners, cornices, roof overhangs, gable underside, window openings. It should not exceed 12 mm over the entire plane/line or 6 mm locally.

That is, if, for example, the wall turned out to be not a rectangle, but a rhombus or a trapezoid, then the difference between its diagonals should not exceed 12 mm. And the same diagonal difference for window / door openings should be no more than 6 mm. The total hump or cavity of the wall or the deflection of the gable/cornice/plinth must also be no more than 12 mm, etc. Installation of siding is allowed on buildings that are slightly inclined, but generally retain their rectangularity.

Next, they check the perpendicularity / horizontality of the lines and angles relative to the base and the surface of the soil with a level and a plumb line. The total slope of the building from subsidence should not be more than 25 mm on any side. As a rule, such a slope of it reveals itself at the previous stage of the revision as unacceptable deflections / drawdowns. If so, you can not think about siding yet - the building is at least pre-emergency, it needs a major overhaul. The installed skin will still soon warp and swell.

Choice of crate

Sheathing for siding can be made of one- and two-level metal from CD-profiles (see. Fig.) Or special and one-two-level wooden, from slats from 40x40 to 50x80 mm. In the latter case, the batten tree must be impregnated with insecticides and fungicides. Both crates can be both linear and lattice; single-level lattice - mortise. Rectangular planks of the crate are placed on the wall with a narrow side.

The choice of the type of crate is made according to the results of the audit of the building:

General unevenness up to 3 mm - any one-level; linear is better, it is simpler and cheaper.
The same, up to 6 mm - single-level wooden from 50x80 bars or two-level metal from C-profiles.
The same, up to 12 mm - a two-level wooden one with the alignment of the outer bars with plywood linings at the joints or a special metal one, with adjusting bars.

Next, you should choose the design of the crate: with horizontal or vertical lags. The first will go under the vertical siding (see below), and the second - under the horizontal. If the crate is two-level, then we are talking about external, on which the boards will be hung, lags.

It must be said that vertical siding is not at all the same boards installed upright. Vertical siding boards are a special type of product, they are more expensive than usual. Siding manufacturers recommend sheathing the walls of the building horizontally, and the gables - vertically, respectively, and making the crate.

These recommendations are based on considerations of increased wind resistance of the skin. There is no place to go into the subtleties of the aerodynamics of buildings, suffice it to say that the combined cladding is designed for an average annual wind speed of over 10 m/s. However, there are almost no places in the Russian Federation with such winds, only in some places on the outskirts the average annual wind speed exceeds 5 m/s. Therefore, our finishers very often make the cladding horizontal on vertical joists throughout the entire outer area of the building. This simplifies and reduces the cost of work.

About thermal bridges

The reader may have a question: if the crate is metal, then what is the point in warming? The metal frame will let the cold into the wall in addition to any foam.

It will not let you in if under the profiles in the places of their attachment to the wall or under the heels of the adjusting strips put gaskets made of paronite or basalt cardboard; by the way, it is very convenient for them to adjust the evenness of the lags. And the self-tapping screw does not form a thermal bridge; it does not sit directly in the wall, but in a plastic dowel.

About self-tapping screws

To fix the crate, self-tapping screws 4-6 mm are needed, which go into the wall by at least 60 mm. Phosphated (black) is better, they are cheaper and stronger, and rust does not take them under the skin. Fastening step - 350-500 mm, depending on the windiness of the place.

The sheathing parts are attached to the wooden crate with 3 mm self-tapping screws with a cap-press washer with a diameter of 8 mm. For fastening to a wooden crate, "bugs" 22-24 mm long are needed, and to a metal one - "fleas", 6-10 mm long. Mounting step and other subtleties - see below, in the installation section.

About the old upholstery

Old wood paneling can be left under the siding as long as it is not warped or rotted. This will immediately give a fairly even underlying surface. If the sheathing is cut - it's okay, we consider the protruding edges of the boards to be a plane. It is only necessary to adjust the fastening step so that the screws fall on the edges of the old boards.

About horizontal to horizontal

Horizontal siding to a vertical crate is effortlessly fastened by one person, and the accuracy of installing the lags is not of decisive importance here: you will have to have some kind of mounting groove on the lag, and it is not necessary to strictly maintain the step of fastening the boards. To attach the same panels to horizontal joists, they need to be installed according to the template together, and the boards will have to be fixed with an assistant. In addition, a horizontal crate for horizontal cladding must be two-level - without ventilation, under the cladding, the walls will go damp. But the "horizontal horizontal" skin can withstand gusts of wind up to a hurricane. Therefore, if you live in a place where there is something like the Novorossiysk bora, it is better to fix it this way.

The choice of siding

Material

Siding is made of plastic (PVC, polyisopropylene), metal (galvanized steel, aluminum) and natural wood. The latter is unstable in the open air, despite any impregnation, therefore it is used either with special requirements for design and prestige (lower left in the figure at the beginning), or in the interior (ibid., lower center). Aluminum siding is very effective, but expensive, requires special tools and highly skilled workers, so it is not considered further.

Vinyl siding is the cheapest and most common, top left in fig. at the beginning. Its surface can imitate not only colors, but also the texture of the sample material (wood, stone, etc.). It is not much more difficult to work with it than with cardboard. PVC siding is strong enough for all regions of the country, except for the highlands and the Far North, where there are often strong winds and frosts. In these places, you need to take propylene from plastic, it is 10-15% more expensive.

However, in southern places, and in the same mountains, an unpleasant property is found in plastic siding: after 3-7 years after installation, without losing strength, it takes on a somewhat sloppy appearance. The reason is microcracks formed under the action of ultraviolet radiation, and dust accumulating in them. Washing does not help; it is possible to restore it with special silicone compounds for updating plastic parts of cars. But they are expensive, and the house in terms of surface area is not a bumper or a spoiler, replacing the skin turns out to be much cheaper.

Metal siding (top center in the picture at the beginning) is completely insensitive to UV. Coloring it, controlled by computers, gives a non-repetitive coloring. Metal siding "under the log" (block house) can be distinguished from real perfectly debarked logs only by scratching. Which, by the way, is very difficult - the paint is incredibly durable.

Metal siding costs about the same as plastic siding, but it has some disadvantages:

Requires high evenness of the crate: if a plastic board 2.4 m long can be bent in the middle to a break of 3-4 inches, then a metal one breaks even with a deflection of one inch. And the permissible mounting deflection is no more than 1/3 of the breaking one, and even that should be avoided.
Not as strong as PVC and even more so propylene. Missing from a good blow with a fist or head of a slipped person.
Does not allow receiving small, for example. under the tree, texture.
The labor intensity of work on it is much higher.

The last point requires clarification. It is impossible to cut metal siding with a grinder, the protective coating is broken from heating and vibration far away from the cut. Metal scissors distort the edges of the profile, which is not always possible to hide under the extensions, especially for a novice master. And you also need to cut the extensions, but they are always in sight. It remains either a hacksaw for metal with small teeth, but when sheathing, hundreds of cuts have to be made. Or - a special guillotine machine with a set of profile knives, very expensive.

Both plastic and metal siding are available for cladding both walls and plinths. Plinth siding is shorter (panels up to 1.165 m long versus 6 m), wider (440 mm) and thicker (20 mm). It is more expensive, but stronger, looks very impressive, perfectly imitating natural stone, therefore it is successfully used for cladding not only plinths, but also the entire external surface of buildings (top right in the figure at the beginning). The methods of work and extensions for basement siding are different than for ordinary siding, see below.

Based on the foregoing, the following recommendations can be made for cladding private houses with siding:

In the middle lane, approximately between the lines St. Petersburg-Ekaterinburg and Voronezh-Volgograd, and in the south of Siberia - any, based on cash. The cheapest and easiest to work with is vinyl.
In the Southern Federal District, in the Far East south of Khabarovsk-Komsomolsk-on-Amur and in Kamchatka north to Parapolsky Dol - metal siding or frost-resistant (-60/+60) vinyl.
In the northern regions - plastic-propylene, frost-resistant PVC in strong local winds, or metal if the weather is mostly calm.

To item 2. There is a lot of UV in Primorye in clear weather; Vladivostok lies on the same latitude as Sochi. But in summer, clear weather is far from always there - the monsoon blows, it brings rain. Therefore, for 10 years or more, you can get by with plastic.

About combined cladding

Sheathing the whole house with basement siding will cost a pretty penny - it is two to three times more expensive than usual. On the other hand, many private houses are built with pilasters. Outlining all these corners - a lot of ordinary siding will go to waste. In this case, it would be best to allocate 10-12% more money for sheathing, and sheathe the house in a combined way: planes with ordinary boards, and pilasters with plinth panels, they are just adapted to work in small areas. The result can be even more elegant than solid plinth sheathing (lower right in the figure at the beginning), but not much more expensive than conventional sheathing.

About the panel profile

As for the profile of the panels, which determines the appearance of the skin, it can be any of your choice, see fig.

In terms of operational parameters, all profiles are approximately equivalent. You just need to meet three conditions:

Within the limits of one surface (wall, pediment), sheathing should be carried out with only one profile. It is impossible to put different types of panels next to each other for the sake of beauty.
Add-ons should only be used complete for panels, purchased together with them from the same batch.
Adjacent surfaces, the ends of the panels of which are included in one extension (corner walls, etc.), should also be sheathed with the same profile.

Video: seller's opinion on choosing siding

Material calculation

Step 1

Now you need to calculate the required amount of material. First, determine the size of the sheathed area. There are no problems with walls, windows and doors. Another thing is the pediment. Firm methods recommend calculating its area according to the Heron formula, but it requires three measurements, and one has to be done from the stairs, and two - climbing with a tape measure on the roof. And if a house with an attic, a roof with breaks, and even an unequal one (for the sake of a larger living area, people are not allowed to do such tricks), then the error of an experienced craftsman may exceed the allowable one, or a good share of the material will have to be “scored” in advance into waste.

In fact, measurements are best done with a long cord and a plumb line, see fig. The areas of a triangle and a trapezoid are calculated according to simple school formulas, and it is easy to accurately remove the required lengths below by dropping the cord and plumb line. You can make accurate marks on the cords by climbing the ladder just once. A mark on the gable is needed in case you have to remeasure. It is applied with chalk.

Then the number of sheathing panels is calculated. The area of one panel is calculated by deducting the width of the mounting plate and the lock tooth from its width. For the case shown in Fig. on the right, it will be 229 mm, and the area of \u200b\u200bone board 4.8 m long is 1.1 square meters. m. For trimming, experienced craftsmen lay an area margin of 3-5% (siding is very economical in this regard); it is better for beginners to take it at 5-7%.

The next stage is the calculation of the number and nomenclature of extras. There is no single methodology for all occasions, because. all houses are different. Therefore, a beginner must definitely draw a plan for sheathing all surfaces and, working with it, pick up extensions. At the same time, you can more accurately calculate the required number of panels.

Note: siding panels are available in lengths from 1.2 to 6 m. It is desirable to sheathe a long wall so that it has an integer number of boards along the length. In extreme cases - 1.5, 2.5, 3.5, etc. boards. Based on this, they build a sheathing scheme.

Step 2

The next step is to calculate the range and number of additional elements. There are many dozens of their varieties on sale, but the vast majority of them are required for buildings of complex architectural forms. For ordinary houses, you can almost always get by with the following, see fig:

sheathing panels (boards);
CD-profile or beam on the crate;
platband (about them, see below, about windows);
complex angles, external and internal, there are also simple angles, but it is almost never possible to get by with them;
soffit - a panel with ventilation holes for sheathing cornices;
starting profile;
finishing profile, very often replaced by a J-profile, see item 10;
H-molding - a profile for connecting sheathing panels, if two or more panels are to be laid along the length of the wall.
wall ebb (Aquilon);
J-profile, also known as J-channel - a universal clamping element.

The finish plank is replaced with a J-profile if the last cladding panel in height has to be cut 1/4 or so in width. In this case, the J-profile holds it better than the regular finish. If the topmost board comes out solid or cut about half, then a regular finishing bar is needed. These recommendations are valid for the most popular double siding "ship bar" and "herringbone".

For single siding, the finish is replaced with a J-profile if the last board is cut more than half. For triple and multiple in width, the following scheme should be followed:

If the longitudinal cut falls on the low (closest to the wall) part of the tooth, we leave the regular finish.
If you have to cut closer to the top of the tooth, we replace it with a J-profile.

Errors and negligence

The following are not allowed in the allowance calculation:

Replace the starting profile with a J-bar. It does not fix, but only holds the panel. And since the whole width of the number of boards along the height of the walls rarely fits, then the regular finishing bar is not always set. And it turns out that the top and bottom trim is not latched; this is blown off by a wind of 7-12 m / s.
Replace the H-molding with two J-profiles, turned back to each other. Water, dust, dirt will definitely penetrate into the gap between them.
Save on aquilon if the house is made hanging over the plinth, as in fig. higher. After sheathing, the regular dripper stops working.

Note: it is also unacceptable to replace the starting profile with a J-bar for sanitary reasons - at the same time it becomes a trough in which water stagnates.

About docking boards

With an integer number of boards along the length of the wall, they are joined with H-moldings (on the left in the figure), and with a half-integer, they are staggered (in the same place on the right). The latter method is in some cases more aesthetic, but in general much worse. Firstly, the wind resistance of the skin decreases, and secondly, moisture inevitably penetrates through the cracks under the skin. And from there she has nowhere to go, except to the wall.

Getting to the skin: technology and flaws

Working with siding is technologically very simple, but it requires mandatory compliance with three rules, see fig.:

do not tighten the locks and fasteners tightly, you need to leave a gap of about 1 mm;
fasten the boards by driving hardware in the middle of the mounting windows, and not from the edge;
do not push the skin elements into the extensions closely, leave a play of 5-7 mm.

These conditions are dictated by the thermal expansion of the panels, which is up to 12 mm along the length of the board and up to 1 mm along its width. Without their observance, the skin will inevitably swell or tear the fasteners with extensions.

Note: the maximum step for attaching panels is 1.2 m, and for extensions - 0.6 m. But for one piece of any length there must be at least 3 attachment points, along the edges and in the middle. Jewelry step maintenance is not required, as long as the fasteners fall in the middle of the log.

Actually, the laying of the panels is carried out in the following sequence:

remove gutters, trim windows and doors;
we make a crate, the extreme logs should fall exactly at the corners;
with a hose level we mark the installation line of the starting profile, it must pass at least 12 mm from the uppermost corner of the base;
put the outer corners;
we put aquilon;
set the start profile;
insert the board into the grooves of the corners with the lock down and push it to the start until it clicks;
check the backlash vertically and to the sides;
we fasten the board to the lags in the mounting edge;
in the same way we put the rest of the boards from the bottom up, snapping each into the previous one and attaching it to the lags;
we introduce the last board into the penultimate one WITHOUT FIXING, mark its desired height and cut it to size in width;
we again apply WITHOUT FIXING the last board, we outline its edge along the lags;
we put the finishing or J-profile, stepping back up from the marks by 6 mm;
slightly arching, we insert the edges of the last board into the corners, its cut edge into the finish or J-profile, and push it up until the lock snaps into place.

Note: if windows and doors will also be framed with siding, then first of all they need to be sorted out, aligning the slopes and frames exactly to squareness. But it is best to do without it, see below.

About soft start

Sometimes, for the sake of aesthetics, at the beginning of the skin, the starting profiles are placed first, and the mounting surfaces of the corners are cut along them, as shown in Fig. bottom right. But such a technique, generally speaking, does not justify itself. The edges of the corners are almost invisible both at the top and at the bottom of the wall, and their unsupported tips soon begin to warp and are now striking.

About warming

Insulation under the siding is elementary simple: after installing the dowels of the drain brackets (see below), but before installing the crate, we put a vapor barrier on the wall, and after assembling the crate, we put foam plates between its lags. Between the bottom of the crate and the foam, there must be a ventilation gap of 10-15 mm.

There is only one minus here: some overexpenditure of fungal hardware (or umbrellas) with which the foam plastic is attached to the wall. One fungus will no longer be able to hold 4 adjacent corners of the insulation, as with continuous sheathing with durable XPS, so 5 fungi located in an envelope will be needed for each foam slab. But both in terms of money and labor costs, such an overrun is a mere minuscule compared to the general reduction in cost / simplification of sheathing and insulation work.

Video: siding technology

Peculiarities

The technique described above is suitable for sheathing a blank wall, but such are found as an exception, and gables are always not rectangles. When sheathing a real facade, it is necessary to bypass its structural elements, which we will now understand.

drains

When dismantling the gutters, their brackets are also removed. The holes for them are expanded for propylene dowels, into which the old (or already new) brackets will then enter, and the dowels are driven into them even before the installation of the crate. Next, we act like this:

On the previous board and corner before the next dowel, mark the coordinates of the hole.
In the next board after its installation, we drill it along the coordinates, 12-15 mm wider than the diameter of the bracket, not the dowel! If, say, the bracket pin is 10 mm, then the hole should be 22-25 mm in diameter.
At the end of the sheathing, we drive the brackets into the dowels.
The gap between the bracket and the casing is caulked with foam rubber, neoprene (a strip of household toilet sponge), etc. soft porous material.
We cut the caulk so that it protrudes 1-2 mm above the skin.
We apply a 1-2 mm layer of silicone sealant to the pin, caulk and sheathing, 20-25 mm to the sides.

Such insulation will reliably protect the skin from moisture getting under it along the bracket pin. At the same time, the cured silicone is quite elastic, and in a thin layer it stretches like rubber, and will not interfere with the thermal deformation of the panels.

Windows-doors

For framing window openings, special siding parts are produced: sloped profiles, platbands, window aquilons, etc. But the very diversity of their assortment speaks more about the fact that siding is designed for covering large areas and it is difficult to frame openings with them.

In general, there are two schemes for framing windows with siding: overlay and butt, see fig. The first method better protects against the penetration of moisture under the skin, but the second is more aesthetic. In any case, windows-doors will have to be surveyed and repaired before sheathing.

But the best way is not to climb into the windows with siding at all. To do this, a continuous crate is made around each opening (on the left in the next figure) and framed with a J-profile, as shown there on the right. The opening is simply bypassed with siding, and then they are made out using window and door technologies. This method also has the advantage that then windows / doors can be finished slowly one by one, and not all at once “take more - throw more”.

Gables

There are two features in the sheathing of the gables. Firstly, they complete the pediment with J-profiles, because. the usual finishing bar does not hold the panel in an inclined position, and special cornice roads are almost never on sale.

Secondly, when sheathing the pediment both horizontally and vertically, you need to cut the ends of the boards exactly at an angle. This is done by trimming the panel, as shown in Fig. on the right: the board is inserted into the molding, the cut is marked, the board is taken out, cut, inserted again into the profile groove or the lock of the previous one and pushed into the J-profile. It is most convenient for a beginner to sheathe a pediment, divided vertically in half (or into 3 parts, if there is a window) with an H-molding.

Note: it is possible to sheathe the pediment along with the wall only if they are laid out at the same time from brick. If the pediment is at least somewhat different from the wall, the sheathing on them must be divided by a horizontally laid H-molding. If the pediment is also with a ledge inward, then the wall must be completed with a finish, and the pediment should be started with an aquilon and a start, like a wall.

Cornices

For high-quality design of cornices, you may need, firstly, a special cornice molding, on the left in fig. Then the sills are made from above with a J-profile and a special cornice strip with a groove for spotlights, in the center in fig. Finally, the frames for the soffits are formed inside with the same J-profiles, and the soffits at the junctions of the corners are separated by H-moldings. In general, the story with cornices turns out to be the same as with windows: covering them with siding is justified when performed by a team of pros who have filled their hands with pros who hand over the turnkey lining “like candy”. And for yourself, it’s better then to slowly finish it to your taste, siding on the gable will not hurt.

About metal siding

With metal siding, you need to work doubly carefully, it can bend irreversibly under its own weight if you hold the board flat by the edge. The second - the additions for metal siding are different than for plastic, see fig., and under the blockhouse - their own special ones. It has already been said about cutting metal siding, and the assembly scheme is generally the same as for plastic siding, see the following. rice. on right.

For a beginner who is going to "metallize" a house, it is better to do it with a blockhouse. Its smooth profile (in the middle of the figure) provides sufficiently high rigidity both in bending and in torsion, so it is not much more difficult to put metal siding under a log than plastic siding. Of the essential difficulties, only cutting remains.

Note: when installing a blockhouse, you should especially be wary of skew and jamming of the panels. If the plastic from an accidentally snapped lock can still be torn back without damaging it, then the metal cannot. Both the board and the dobor are gone.

Plinth trim

Sheathing with socle siding is carried out from the bottom up, like the rest. It has the following nuances:

Basement and wall siding must be taken from the same manufacturer and paired with each other.
Sheathing with socle siding is carried out only “horizontally horizontally” and, first of all, up to wall sheathing.
Warming is not done.
The positions of the lags are marked from the top of the base; unevenness relative to the ground is compensated by cementing, blind area, etc.
In the process of assembling the coating, an additional operation appears - cutting the panels at the entrance to the corner (see Fig.), Therefore, a careful calculation of the coating is needed so that too much material does not go to waste.
The panels are interconnected by two locks, the bottom and the side, so you need to put them very carefully until the skill is developed. The exception is the first row, which slides in the starting profile.

To pp. 1 and 2 require clarification. The fact is that the basement siding ends not with a finish or some special basement J-profile (by the way, all the extensions under the base are also special), but with a basement curb. This border will be at the same time the starting profile of the wall sheathing, while aquilon is not needed. It is clear that “alien” or one’s own, but not fitted specifically to this basement, wall siding may not fit into the curb. And if the wall was sheathed earlier, then the upper curb, if it rises to take out the base, it will turn out to be a water collector, and you can’t adapt the aquilon on top of it.

Tree

Wooden siding is the same tes, and the methods of working with it are the same, see fig.:

Start is a rectangular bar.
The inner corner is a square rail.
The outer corner is a sheathing board sawn along, assembled overlay or flush.
Assembly - on nails, according to the scheme in fig. on the right in the top row.
You can’t hide the fasteners of wooden siding, so the upholstery is treated with liquid nails to match the wood during assembly. At the same time, the joints are sealed, which, subject to prior impregnation with a fungicide, negates the likelihood of a bug or mold in the sheathed room. Outside - as nature disposes.

If you have recently built a wooden house or want to update the old walls of a long-built housing, then siding is just what you need. Siding can not only significantly transform the walls of a wooden house by giving them an original appearance, but also protect them from harmful external influences caused by: temperature changes, rain, winds, ultraviolet radiation, etc. How to sheathe a wooden house with siding with your own hands and save on services installers? As part of the article, we will provide step-by-step instructions for sheathing a wooden house with do-it-yourself siding, and the videos and photos in the article will help resolve some issues related to DIY siding installation.

How to sheathe a wooden house with siding with your own hands: detailed instructions

Finishing a wooden house with siding somewhat different from cladding, such as brick walls. The thing is that cladding on wooden walls is much easier and faster than installing on brick walls with pre-drilling holes for dowels to install and fasten the batten for siding.

ON A NOTE! The price for siding a house with siding per square meter primarily depends on the material from which the walls of the building are built.

Leveling the walls of a wooden house for installing siding

No matter how well the builders try to build the walls of the house, in any case, these measures are unlikely to do without errors. Just in order to smooth out the flaws of the builders for the installation of siding, it is necessary to make a leveling crate from wooden bars or a metal profile. It is the crate or subsystem that allows you to easily fix the siding to the wooden house without much difficulty.

If we take into account all the technological nuances, then it is impossible to do without a leveling crate, since any type of siding whether it is vinyl or metal, plinth or wood, it requires a properly positioned subsystem for high-quality installation. In addition, if you plan to insulate the walls of the house for siding, then it is not possible to do this without a pre-exposed crate.

ADVICE! Keep in mind that even with a leveling board, if it's not properly installed when siding your house with your own hands, you can end up with visually perceptible curved walls.

The step of the crate for sheathing a wooden house with siding must be done as often as possible, thereby you are guaranteed to give the entire cladding maximum rigidity. The average step of the crate between the slats is 400-600 mm, however, this distance can be made smaller, for example, 300 mm, but making a step of more than 600 mm is not recommended, especially for vinyl siding, since PVC panels are very fragile and easily deformed when low or high temperatures and mechanical loads, such as strong winds.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a wooden house under siding

If you want to insulate the facade of a wooden house, then this should be taken care of in advance. You need to decide on the type of insulation that is most suitable for your case. It is advisable to use a heater of the required thickness. So, for example, if the walls of the house are built from a bar 180 by 180 mm, then it is better to choose a heater, for example, foam plastic with a thickness of no more than 30 mm. And if the walls have a thickness of no more than 150 mm, then it is better to choose a slightly larger thickness of the foam, for example 50 mm.

Insulation for the walls of the house outside under the siding is used very different, ranging from the budget - polystyrene foam, slag wool, glass wool and ending with mineral wool, basalt slabs, polyurethane foam, extruded polystyrene foam, etc. It is quite common to insulate a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool for siding, and also with foam.

Experts, based on their long-term observations, recommend using slab heaters when insulating the facade of a house, rather than rolled ones, since it is slab materials that hold out in place without tangible shifts for quite a long time, which cannot be said about rolled materials. Rolled insulation is quite heavy and is mainly used for insulation on horizontal surfaces. Mounted on a vertical plane, it will definitely sag over time, leaving tangible gaps, which in turn will open access to cold air.

Dowels for installing insulation on the walls of a wooden house are not needed, and instead of them, nails of the appropriate length and a plastic cap are used, which presses and holds the plate, preventing it from sliding down. See photo below.

Fasteners for insulation under the siding of the house

You can also fix the insulation on wooden walls using self-tapping screws of the appropriate length and plastic caps.

IMPORTANT! If foam or expanded polystyrene plates are used as insulation, then the joints between them must be foamed with mounting foam pre-installed on the mounting gun.

Vapor barrier and wind and hydroprotective films for the installation of siding on the wooden facade of the house

Installation of steam protection is a necessary condition for siding a wooden house. The film is mounted directly on the walls of the facade, that is, under the insulation. Given the technology and physical laws, the installation of wind protection is simply necessary. The vapor barrier film protects the insulation from the accumulation of moisture vapor, thereby preventing its destruction.

Wind and hydroprotective film is a unique protective technology, widely used mainly in the installation of roofs and facades. The uniqueness of the wind and hydroprotective membrane lies in its ability to retain heat and keep cold outside. In addition, the membrane structure of the film is able to “breathe”, i.e., provide the necessary ventilation under the skin.

A film is mounted, covering the insulation on the main crate, after which wooden slats of the counter crate with a diameter of not more than 30x40 mm are perpendicularly stuffed on top of it, which in turn provide a ventilation gap that prevents the accumulation of condensate under the skin. See photo below.

The photo shows how the siding is installed under the horizontal sheathing of a wooden house with siding.

Sheathing a wooden house with siding on your own in 5 stages

Installation of scaffolding

The first thing to do when sheathing the facade of a wooden house with do-it-yourself siding this is to install scaffolding and stepladders, if necessary, for example, in the case of tall buildings of 2 or more floors. To do this, the space around the house must be cleared at a distance of at least 2 meters.
Scaffolding is best rented for the required period. You can also build scaffolding from dry durable boards. As a flooring, dry boards with a length of at least 4 meters and a thickness of 40-50 mm can be used. No cracks or noticeable knots. Do-it-yourself installation of scaffolding for the installation of siding with your own hands is recommended to be installed first on one side of the facade, and after facing it, move it to the next side and so on until the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe facade of the wooden house is sheathed.

Scaffolding for siding a wooden house

Facade preparation for siding installation

The plan for preparing the facade for siding consists in dismantling utilities: electrical cables and appliances, plumbing pipes, ventilation hatches, etc.
All weakly holding elements of the facade must be carefully fixed.
Next, the walls of the facade of the house should be sheathed with a vapor barrier film with an overlap.

Vapor and hydroprotective film under the cladding of the facade of a wooden house with siding

Do-it-yourself installation of the crate

After installing the membrane protective film, you can proceed to install the crate under the siding. For the crate, a dry wooden even bar 30-50 mm thick, treated with antiseptic agents or a metal profile PP 60x27x3000 mm, is suitable.
With horizontal cladding of the facade of a wooden house, the crate is installed vertically and vice versa. The step between the slats should not exceed 600 mm, ideally 30-40 mm for vinyl siding and 40-50 mm for installation of metal siding.
The fastening of the lathing rails is carried out on hangers for the metal profile see photo below.

Suspensions for fastening the battens under the sheathing of a wooden cottage with siding

The self-tapping screw for attaching the suspension to the wall is used with a large rare wood carving with a length of at least 30 mm. See photo below.

Self-tapping screw for fastening the suspension under the crate to the wooden facade

The fastening of the leveling lathing rails is carried out using self-tapping screws with a press washer no more than 20 mm long for a metal profile and at least 30 mm long wood self-tapping screw for fastening a wooden beam.

Fastening the leveling battens with self-tapping screws with a press washer under the siding sheathing

ADVICE! The shorter the screw for attaching the suspension to the rail, the easier and faster it is to screw. Therefore, try to purchase a shorter fastener.

Insulation of the facade of a wooden house

Insulation for the installation of siding panels is made after the installation of the crate. It is necessary in advance to install the crate to choose the best type of insulation for price, quality and size. Only after the thickness of the material is known, it is possible to level the walls of the facade with slats.

ADVICE! Remember that the insulation should not protrude beyond the subsystem. Ideally, it should be flush with the plane of the crate or slightly sink into it.

After the insulation is fixed, all seams should be foamed if necessary. Next, the insulated facade must be covered with a layer of wind and hydroprotection.

Installation of a windproof film under the siding trim

On this, the insulation of the walls of a wooden house for siding with siding is finished with your own hands, and you can proceed directly to the siding itself.

Installation of siding on a wooden house

Panels should be mounted from the bottom up. Knowing the length of the panel, you can install connecting profiles. Everywhere for vinyl siding it is necessary to leave the recommended gaps. So, for example, the panel should not be tightly screwed to the crate; the gap should be at least 1 mm. The panel, as it were, should slide slightly on the screws. At the joints in the corners and connecting strips, it is also necessary to leave a gap between the panel and the connecting elements of at least 5 mm.

ADVICE! It is better to fasten siding panels with small screws or nails. For example, it is better to use galvanized fasteners that do not rust and, as a result, do not leave visible stains on the surface of the facade.

The windows around the perimeter are framed with siding, and the slopes are trimmed with special slope PVC strips that come with the kit or are selected separately. A metal tide is installed at the bottom of the window.
Options for filing roof eaves include the use of a soffit panel or siding. For this purpose, a j-profile for siding is used and installed along the entire length of the cornice, the length of the panels is measured, after which the spotlights are cut and inserted into the fixing profile, after which they are screwed onto self-tapping screws.

Summing up

Sheathing, finishing, facing a wooden house with siding is a great alternative to any other facade design option. Do-it-yourself siding installation on a wooden house only seems difficult; in fact, if you arm yourself with a sense of enthusiasm and optimism, you can easily, originally and quickly decorate the facade of a wooden house without involving professional installers for this. In addition, you can save a lot of money if you do the installation work on your own.

How to sheathe a wooden house with siding with your own hands: video instruction

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