Natural ventilation in the apartment. Supply ventilation in the apartment: options for organizing air exchange

Ventilation in apartment buildings often does not work satisfactorily. Because of this, children and adults get sick, furniture deteriorates, building structures become covered with fungus. Neither air purifiers nor household air conditioners solve the problem. For air hygiene of rooms, the organization of air exchange is necessary. Not every family can afford the installation of an expensive ventilation system. However, in the battle for freshness, you can often get by with little bloodshed by adopting the simplest and most affordable technologies.

Air mass roads

In most residential multi-apartment buildings of modern construction, natural (gravitational) exhaust ventilation is provided. Fresh air enters the rooms mainly through leaks in the windows (between the sash and the frame) and from there through the undercuts of the interior doors it moves into the corridor, and then to the ventilation grilles in the bathroom and in the kitchen. Along the way, the air absorbs various kinds of pollution.

From the apartments, polluted air enters the exhaust ducts of natural ventilation, which high-rise buildings(6 or more floors), as a rule, it is transported to a warm attic, from which air is removed into the atmosphere through common house waste shafts. In houses with a height of up to 5 floors, the "exhaust" usually goes directly into the atmosphere (ventilation ducts in this case are brought to the roof, their heads are covered with deflectors).

Natural ventilation channels are mounted in houses at the construction stage: they are made from floor-by-floor unified concrete blocks. Each vertical of apartments can be served by two ventilation ducts, and if the bathroom and kitchen are nearby, then one is enough.

To ensure fire protection and optimal aerodynamics in most modern homes, polluted air does not enter the ventilation ducts immediately, but through satellite ducts. The source of the satellite is behind the wall ventilation grilles in the kitchen (in the toilet, bathroom), and the outlet, docked with the common house channel, is on the floor above.

Unfortunately, gravity ventilation does not always work effectively enough. In addition, residents, wanting to squeeze more equipment they really need into their small kitchens and bathrooms, often encroach on the integrity of the ventilation ducts, although this is strictly prohibited. As a result, the performance of the natural ventilation system is disrupted, the restoration of which becomes very difficult and costly.

Methods for organizing effective ventilation on a scale of the whole house are considered in detail in modern technical literature, for example, in the recommendations of TR ABOK-4-2004. We will restrict ourselves to a review of typical apartment ventilation problems and simple technical solutions, which are easy to implement to improve air exchange.

Fans only...

The performance of natural ventilation depends on random climatic factors - wind speed and direction, indoor and outdoor air temperature, and others. For example, in winter, with a large temperature difference in the apartment and on the street, the natural ventilation system can work well, but in summer its efficiency drops sharply.

If ordinary wooden windows are installed in the apartment (those that were installed in all residential buildings during the Soviet era), in winter, autumn and spring the ventilation efficiency of the residents is quite satisfied, then the problem is solved with the help of one or two fans installed in the exhaust vents in the bathrooms and in the kitchen.

The most widely used today are fans operating on a voltage of 220 V (in rooms with high humidity, fans designed for 12 V are used). Such devices are fixed in exhaust openings in waste shafts or at the end of the duct. Such a device can be turned on and off using a rope switch or, more often, from the light switch when entering the kitchen or bathroom.

However, other control methods are possible, depending on the type of ventilated room.

For example, the bathroom is the main source of high humidity in the apartment. Moisture-proof models with a humidity sensor are often used here. Such a device automatically turns on when the level of relative humidity in the bathroom exceeds a predetermined limit (can be set to turn on at 60-90%), and turns off when the steam escapes, wet surfaces dry out, evaporation slows down and the air in the room becomes dry.

Among the models with a humidity sensor, we can mention Decor 300CH from Soler&Palau, CB-100 PLUS H from Cata, E-Style 100 PRO MHY (smart) from Elicent and others.

In toilets, fans with a motion sensor and a shutdown delay timer are very often used. When a person appears, such a fan automatically turns on, and after the room is empty, a timer controls the operation of the fan for a set time (2–20 minutes). At the end of the delay period, it deactivates the fan. An example is the 100/125 MA TP from Vents.

In the kitchen, fans are used, which are switched on by a signal from a remote air quality sensor.

The sensor is usually a device about the size of a cigarette box, its sensors constantly monitor the quality of the air in the room. As soon as it worsens (the smell of cigarette smoke appears, as well as unpleasant odors), the fan is activated. After the air quality has returned to normal, the sensor switches off the device automatically after a short time delay (3–20 minutes).

An example is the Vario (Vortice) axial wall fan with C Smoke sensor.

Cheap fan models are consumables, be prepared to replace them after 3-6 months of continuous operation. Only the highest quality devices can operate up to 30,000–40,000 hours in a row (approximately 4.5 years). If you want the apartment to be ventilated more intensively, buy a fan with a powerful engine that has a "turbo" function. However, here you need to know the measure. In order not to harm others, the air capacity of the fan should not exceed 90–120 m3/h.

In addition to the fans of the listed companies, it is worth noting the devices of the trademarks Sylavent, O. ERRE, Xpelair, Ductex, Systemair, Maico Ventilatoren, Ballu Machine, as well as Arktos and Smart.

Windows+

If the efficiency of ventilation in the apartment before the installation of sealed plastic windows with double-glazed windows suited you, and after their installation you felt a lack of fresh air, the solution to the problem of air supply to your home may turn out to be unexpectedly simple. Set the window latches to winter ventilation mode (bolt handle up and slightly to the right) or summer ventilation mode (handle up). Through the gaps formed in the porches of the windows, the fresh air necessary for breathing will seep into the rooms. You will not need any additional devices and devices.

Alas, through windows that are even ajar in this way, street noise will penetrate into the house, drafts will arise, especially dangerous for the elderly and children. If these phenomena are unacceptable, it is better to use supply ventilation valves to depressurize the apartment, which provide silent access to fresh air and normalization of natural ventilation.

Supply ventilation valves can be mounted in various places of the apartment. This can be an external wall - on the side of the window, at a height of human height (for example, KIV-125 valves), a foamed window-wall joint (Climabox valves from KBE), a sash or impost profile of a plastic or wooden window (EMM valves from Aereko). Siegenia - Aubi offers very interesting models of supply ventilation valves mounted in the gap between the end of the double-glazed window and the window profile ("Aeromat-80") or under the window sill ("Aeroflet").

Supply ventilation valves do not consume electricity, their throughput, depending on the model, can be from 2 to 50 m 3 / h (for some models, the flow can be adjusted manually or automatically).

The number and location of the valves is determined according to the calculation. Usually they are installed in each residential area, at least two valves per apartment. For example, to normalize the operation of a natural ventilation system that removes 90 m 3 / h of exhaust air from a house, it is enough to install 3-4 valves in living rooms with a capacity of 30 m 3 / h each with a pressure difference between the apartment and the street 10 Pa.

It must be said that the better the draft in the ventilation ducts and the higher the wind pressure on the facades, the more air will flow through the supply ventilation valves into the dwelling. Sometimes the supply air may even be too much, so the valves have to be covered. It is not recommended to place the head of the bed, especially for a child, next to the valves, as in winter they are noticeably cold.

But in summer, in calm weather, fresh air may not go into the house at all, even if the valves are fully open. Therefore, in order to provide the apartment with fresh air (especially if it is located on the last or penultimate floor of the house), in addition to valves, it is still better to equip the exhaust vents in the kitchen and in the bathroom with good exhaust fans.

Overhaul or replacement?

A redevelopment carried out by a neighbor from above, or a banal clogging of a satellite duct (after long-term operation, kilograms of soot, pieces of concrete are removed from it ...) often leads to the fact that the exhaust air from the apartment is not removed at all. The flame of a candle in front of the ventilation grilles does not even waver. To reanimate the ventilation system, it is enough to contact the management company, whose specialists will help to find out and eliminate the cause of the lack of traction. However, you can't wait for help...

If you cannot tolerate stale air in your house, there is an option to organize an individual exhaust ventilation system for the apartment, which discharges exhaust air from the kitchen and bathroom directly to the street, and simply put plugs on the existing exhaust vents in these rooms.

Such a system can operate continuously or “on demand” (for example, it can be activated by a signal from humidity sensors or air quality sensors in the apartment). The bottleneck of such installations is the freezing of exhaust openings on the street in severe cold. However, most of the year they function without problems - there would be electricity in the house.

First of all, for the normal operation of the system, access to fresh air from the street to the living quarters - a bedroom, a living room - is necessary. If the rooms have old wooden windows, no special equipment is required. If installed plastic windows with a hermetic porch, then the flow of air into the living rooms, most likely, will have to be organized. For example, using the supply valves already mentioned above, mounted in through holes in the outer walls.

Exhaust air from the kitchen is often arranged using a wall-mounted centrifugal exhaust fan, superimposed on a through hole cut in the outer wall of the house. From the side of the facade of the house, the hole is closed with an exhaust ventilation grille.

A centrifugal wall fan for the kitchen should have a built-in check valve to prevent cold air from entering the room from the street when it is turned off. Example: fans of the TsF series (Vents). In the southern regions, axial exhaust fans with automatic shutters are also used, mounted in a through hole with a diameter of 100–150 mm in window glazing. Similar devices are supplied to the Russian market under the trademarks Vortice, Sylavent, O. ERRE, Xpelair, Ductex and others.

To extract air from the bathroom and toilet - rooms that usually do not come into contact with the outer walls of the house, you will need a moisture-proof duct fan with a capacity of approximately 80–150 m 3 / h: they usually put it in the bathroom, behind a false ceiling. Humid air from the bathroom and toilet is pumped out with its help to the street through the air duct - moisture resistant and soundproof. It is necessary to lay such an air duct through the living rooms, along the shortest path to the nearest outer wall, in the space behind the hemming flow, or in the voids of the decorative lowering of the ceiling along the perimeter of the room. The air intake in the bathroom and the outlet of the air duct on the street are closed with ventilation grilles.

For bathrooms in an apartment, it is logical to buy a centrifugal fan with a low noise level (32-36 dB (A)), adapted for long-term operation (resource - at least 30,000-40,000 hours).

We can recommend VKP-mini (Vents) with capacity from 80 to 176 m 3 /h. Up to 4 short air ducts can be connected to the inlet pipes of this device, only one outlet pipe. Durable models of duct fans made of polymer materials, which do not care about long-term contact with humid polluted air, are produced by Vortice ( the lineup Lineo), Cata (SMT), Panasonic (FV-12NS1), Shuft and others.

Among the manufacturers of air ducts, we note the companies DEC, Diaflex, Sodiamex. Trox, Systemair, Halton, Swegon, IMP Klima, Arktos have a wide range of high-quality supply and exhaust ventilation grilles.

Smog and odor free

In modern megacities, plastic windows are often installed only in order to tightly fence off the apartment from the street. The air outside the windows due to the proximity to the highway is polluted with a host of dangerous chemical compounds. And its inhalation over time necessarily affects the health of households ...

Alas, sealing the home, as the only measure to combat smog, does not bode well for the residents of the apartment. In a closed home, the air quickly becomes even more toxic than outside. Therefore, in addition to installing sealed windows, it is necessary to equip the dwelling with a mechanical ventilation system.

The simplest solution is a supply unit, which thoroughly cleans the street air from pollution and, if necessary, heats it up to a comfortable +17 ºС before being fed into the apartment. The discharge of exhaust air from the dwelling is organized through the channels of natural exhaust ventilation (if they are in working condition), otherwise - with the help of an individual exhaust ventilation system of the apartment.

Such systems, if, of course, they are correctly designed and installed, support the most high level climatic comfort, do not create drafts. There are no problems with heating the supply air even in severe cold.

To organize the supply of fresh purified air into a room with an area of ​​10–30 m 2, air handling units for one room, such as Marta, or other similar devices, are very convenient. Such an installation is mounted under a window or in any other place in the room, but always on a wall bordering the street. It sucks air from the atmosphere (usually in a volume of 40 to 120 m 3 / h) through a channel drilled in the wall with a diameter of 100–150 mm, processes the flow to the required conditions, and then launches it into the room.

It is noteworthy that air handling units for one room can be mounted in already finished rooms without disturbing the interior, without spoiling the finishes, and in just a few hours. In recirculation mode, the unit works as a highly effective room air purifier.

If several rooms need clean outdoor air at once, it is logical to consider the possibility of installing a ventilation system based on a monoblock supply unit. It will take air from the street, prepare it accordingly, and then supply it through a network of supply air ducts to all rooms that need it. If the house you live in has a patio and the air quality there is better than that of the facade facing the roadway, then it is logical to “feed” the apartment with fresh air from this more environmentally friendly air pool.

Structurally, a monoblock supply unit for an apartment is a box assembled from heat-insulated panels, inside the unit there are a duct or centrifugal fan, an electric air heater (most often single-phase, 220 V, but in some cases three-phase models for 380 V are also used), filters, as well as an automation system and other elements.

Central supply units are mounted on the loggia, but sometimes directly in the apartment - for example, on the mezzanine, in the pantry, in the dressing room or corridor. Depending on the design features, they are placed behind a false ceiling, installed on the floor or on the wall, in a horizontal or vertical position.

Models with a weather-resistant coating of the body and its sufficiently effective thermal insulation can also be located outside the heated zone - on the loggia or the wall of the building - as well as external blocks of split systems. It is only necessary to provide for the possibility of their regular Maintenance(replacement of filters, engine repair and other works).

To supply air to rooms, an air duct-collector (main section) is often provided, from which supply air ducts of a smaller diameter are connected to different rooms. The network of ventilation ducts is located behind the false ceiling. At the mouths of the supply air ducts, air distribution devices are placed in harmony with the interior.

After connecting to the network and starting up, the air handling unit operates in automatic mode all year round. It is only important to pay electricity bills on time and carry out maintenance.

Among the monoblock air handling units for large rooms, one can note TLP and TA-MINI from Systemair, SAU125 A from Ostberg, CAU from SHUFT, Compact from Arktos, Elf from Engineering Equipment, Fresh Air from Electrolux, GLP 125 from General Climate, KKP from VEZA, Alfa Vent from 2VV and others. Well, we have already mentioned the manufacturers of high-quality air ducts, exhaust fans and ventilation grilles above.

Material provided

We spend a lot of time in the apartment. For a working person, the time spent in their native walls is about 10-14 hours, and for households who are only studying or even go outside only for a walk - three-quarters of a day. People are familiar with the feeling that appears if you do not go out into the fresh air for a whole day, or even two or three. You can’t call it a malaise, but there’s nothing pleasant about it either. Wants to breathe fresh air. The reason may be a lack of air exchange. There is only one way to solve this problem - by arranging supply and exhaust ventilation for the apartment.

The essence of indoor ventilation

Ventilation is a process of constant renewal of air masses in a residential or industrial building. It is necessary for the simple reason that a person in the course of his life absorbs oxygen and releases carbon dioxide. If you leave a person in a hermetically sealed room, he will suffocate after a while. If there are several people, the process will go faster - oxygen from the air will be consumed by breathers, and gaseous carbon dioxide will take its place. This process is long, because a person cannot absorb all the oxygen from the air drawn into the lungs in one breath. But it's not about death, but only about comfort. A constant supply of air, in which 21% oxygen is dissolved, is the main task of apartment ventilation.

There is another reason why room ventilation is the standard for apartment operation. In a residential building, not only people absorb oxygen and emit harmful gases. Gas stove, water heater, oven do it much faster. Without the removal of harmful gases through the ventilation ducts, they accumulate in dangerous concentrations. In the event of a malfunction of water heating and kitchen equipment using natural gas, it can begin to be released without burning. Having filled the room, he will create the risk of an explosion from a single lit match. To prevent gas from accumulating in dangerous concentrations is also the task of ventilation. Therefore, the requirements for air exchange in the apartment cannot be neglected.

Ventilation from the developer

It would be strange if, given the seriousness of the issue, houses were built without ventilation solutions. And they are in every apartment. But the arrangement of ventilation according to an individual project is a costly set of procedures that is not always performed even in elite housing. The design of the building is limited to the creation of vertical ventilation ducts that run through the entire building from the bottom to the top, and into which holes are discharged to remove the used air and each apartment. This is the same hood, that is, exhaust ventilation. But it's clear from physics that air can't just disappear from their rooms. In order for part of the air to be constantly removed, it is necessary to form an influx of fresh, that is, street air, in which the percentage of gases will be in the optimal ratio.

Old houses, in the openings of which wooden windows were placed, did not contain any specially organized supply ventilation. The air penetrated into the room through the micropores of the wood and cracks in the wooden frames. In modern metal-plastic windows with sealed double-glazed windows and two sealing contours, such penetration is impossible. The only way to let air into the apartment is to open the window. But as soon as this is done, cold in winter, heat in summer, and, on top of that, street noise will begin to penetrate into the apartment.

Classics of the genre - misted double-glazed windows, through which moisture flows in trickles - and there is a lack of ventilation

Advice: when ordering metal-plastic windows, pay attention to the "micro-ventilation" mode - when the sash opens a couple of millimeters. This can improve air exchange at all without any special work.

As for the exhaust part, it is organized only in some rooms - the bathroom and the kitchen, which are adjacent to the walls in which the ventilation ducts are laid. If the bathroom is separate, then the exhaust hole is arranged in each room. Air circulation is carried out due to the generated traction. This is where the imperfection of the system lies: the weakening of the inflow reduces traction. On the top floor of a multi-storey building, the draft is not at all large, since the height of the ventilation duct for this must be at least three meters. In a house with a flat roof, there is no attic, the exhaust duct is short. There is only one way out - to install a supply and exhaust ventilation system to ensure the desired climate and air exchange.

Supply and exhaust ventilation with a heat exchanger

The simplest forced ventilation system is simple: inlet and outlet channels are arranged, fans are placed on each of them, creating a directed flow of moving air. The supply fan blows air into the apartment, and the exhaust fan removes the used gas mixture from it. With such a device, a serious problem arises. In the cold season, cold air from the street enters the apartment in large quantities. Given the volume, it will quickly lead to a decrease in the temperature in the room. The included heating system consumes more energy, because the air heated by it is constantly expelled outside through the exhaust duct. Often you can see a picture of how steam comes out of the exhaust pipe of an apartment or a private house. It is obtained from the temperature difference in frosty weather. Logic suggested to the engineers a way to achieve savings on heating and at the same time solve the problem of cooling the apartment. It's called recuperation.

Air recuperation is based on the process of heat exchange between two air streams of different temperatures. The fact is that the air entering the room is cold, it needs to be heated. The air taken out of the room, on the contrary, is warm, because it was heated from the heating system and other heat sources in the apartment. If they are mixed, there will be a transfer of heat from warm air to cold air.

Mixing cannot be done directly, otherwise the whole point of ventilation will be lost. For recovery, a heat exchanger is used, built according to the same scheme as a similar unit of a boiler or air conditioner. The heat exchanger consists of a block of thin channels separated by partitions. Some of them are staggered connected to the air inlet, others remove it from the room. Thus, the channels with warm air are located next to the channels that carry cold air from the street and warm their contents. The heating is noticeable: the temperature of the air sucked in by the system is only a couple of degrees lower than that which is thrown out into the street.

The whole system consists of several nodes - inlet and outlet pipes with caps, a piping system, as well as the heat exchanger itself, all elements of which are mounted in a single housing. The body is made of thin-walled sheet steel. The requirements for the strength of the walls are to withstand the pressure that the self-expanding polyurethane foam exerts on them. It fills all the gaps between the structure, walls, ceiling to ensure maximum sound insulation. This layer absorbs the vibrations that occur during the operation of the fans.

Advice: it is better to install a heat exchanger with fans in a pantry, dressing room or corridor, since there will still be a little noise from its operation.

The air ducts from the heat exchanger are placed in such a way that the supply air enters one part of the premises (usually from above), and is drawn into the exhaust hood on the other. Due to this, a circulation flow is formed, the incoming fresh air has time to heat up, serve as a breathing mixture and (and contribute to combustion - for example, in a kitchen with a gas stove) enter the heat exchanger with a maximum temperature for output outside.

The inlet and outlet channels are closed from the street side with a grate. It prevents large objects from entering the system - birds, large insects, debris that can get into the channel, being thrown out of the window. Fine filters are provided for dust and small insects. There is nothing complicated about them - these are small grids, similar in type to grids from the indoor unit of a household air conditioner. They are not tight because otherwise they will create a barrier to the intake air, and the fans will work with an overload to provide the necessary level of thrust. The same situation is observed when the filter is clogged with street dust and small debris. Therefore, the nets must be regularly removed, cleaned and washed.

Expensive ventilation systems are designed for the installation of entire air purification stations, which may already have not only mechanical, but also chemical and bacteriological filters, ultraviolet disinfection and an ionizer. Installation of such systems requires space, plus they need to regularly change cartridges with consumables. As a result, at the output you get an almost perfectly balanced composition of the air mixture without harmful inclusions.

In a climate where severe cold prevails in the winter months, and the air temperature drops below zero already in autumn and spring, the recovery process cannot produce warm air of the required parameters. The room will still be cold. To do this, a heater is added to the recovery unit - a device consisting of heating elements, past which air leaks and heats up. Thanks to this, the required temperature is reached. Heaters of ventilation systems are powered by electricity, have low power and can be adjusted depending on weather conditions. The inevitable overdrying of air during its heating in a dry heater is compensated by a built-in humidifier that returns moisture, which is so necessary for comfortable human life. In expensive regeneration units, moisture can be removed from the air discharged to the outside due to the condensation effect, and then enter the humidifier through the capillaries. This process is complicated, because the moisture that has fallen out requires cleaning, and is rare.

Much more often, condensate collection is organized in special containers, from which water is then discharged into the sewer or outside the apartment. The usual flow of water through the tube, as in air conditioners, is not suitable here, since in frost the outlet tube will simply freeze through. Icing of the air inlet and outlet channels leads to a reduction in the throughput in the heat exchanger. For defrosting, a bypass cuts into the system, that is, a pipeline that bypasses the heat exchanger. When the heated air stops cooling, the precipitation of moisture and its freezing stops, the heat exchanger thaws naturally. When cold air from the street enters through the bypass, it does not warm up in any way, therefore, a heater must be provided in such a system. It is usually connected to an incoming room temperature sensor. If it falls below the specified limit, the heater starts additional heating.

Video - Supply and exhaust ventilation with recuperation in the apartment

Supply and exhaust ventilation with air conditioning

Sometimes this option is called central air conditioning, since the air is distributed not in one room, but in the entire apartment, where ventilation ducts are laid. The advantage of this system is that this option is cheaper than equipping each room with a separate air conditioner. Outdoor unit mounting options may be limited. One outdoor unit with a powerful air conditioner heat exchanger does a better job than several weak ones.

Advice: choose an air conditioner with the possibility of air heating and built-in heating of the crankcase of the outdoor unit - then for work in winter it will be possible not to install a separate heater. What is the best air conditioner for an apartment? IN consider the rating of popular models, criteria and evaluation of the choice.

In central air conditioning, there is no characteristic indoor unit with a drum-fan and shutters-curtains. Instead, the freon line from the compressor goes to the channel distributor. The air is supplied to the distributor through the supply channels, and it is removed, already cooled, to those places that are beneficial to the owners - usually to the kitchen and living rooms. Another system of piping-collectors of exhaust air concentrates it and brings it outside. The distributor is not equipped with fans. They are placed separately in the quantity required by the project. Unlike the usual split system, central air conditioning combined with ventilation is a constructor, from the constituent elements of which you can create a solution for any living space.

Do-it-yourself supply and exhaust ventilation

Channel-type systems, where the calculation and installation of round or square pipelines is required, are installed by specialists from the respective companies. If there are no funds for expensive equipment and the work of professionals, you can equip a simple supply and exhaust with your own hands.

The main feature of this option is that there is no need to install air ducts. It is only necessary to correctly position the supply and exhaust openings.

Step 1. In living rooms with windows, holes are made so that a ventilation tube can be inserted there. The work is carried out with a perforator, the outer hole is closed with a grate, a mesh filter and a decorative overlay are placed on the inside.

Step 2 If the air flows by gravity, the channel is placed above the heating radiator - then the air will be heated from the battery and the cold will not penetrate into the room. If you want to make a forced inflow, then the place does not matter - you can make a channel on the side of the window or on top. Then from the inside they connect a block with a blower fan, heating element and filter. The unit is powered from the mains through a low-ampere circuit breaker.

Step 3 Exhaust fans with reduced noise cut into existing ventilation ducts in the kitchen and bathroom. You can make a separate toggle switch on the kitchen appliance, and connect the wires to the light switch in the bathroom. Even with a passive air supply, operating exhaust fans will create negative pressure, and air from all over the apartment will rush into the ventilation ducts.

If there is no desire to drill a wall, you can mount the supply valve on a plastic window. A recess is milled in the upper part of the tilt-and-turn sash. It is closed by a sliding valve with a curtain with a fine mesh or sponge filter. When closed, the shutter rests against a rubber seal, ensuring tightness when closed. Being open, it almost does not let in sounds and cold from the street, but it will help to solve the problem with stuffiness and misted windows.

Proper ventilation in an apartment (house) allows you to create an optimal microclimate and ensure the safety of structures. The basic rules for organizing air exchange and common mistakes are discussed in detail in this review.

A bit of theory

Ventilation is an organized exchange of air created to remove excess heat, moisture and other substances that accumulate in the premises. This process is needed to protect and preserve structures, create an optimal microclimate and air quality.

Air characteristics that provide physiological comfort during prolonged and systematic exposure are considered optimal for a person. As a rule, this is:

• The air temperature is from 21 to 25 °C.
• Relative humidity - from 40 to 60%.
• The speed of air movement is not more than 0.2 - 0.3 m / s.
• The gas composition of the air is close to natural (75.5% nitrogen, 23.1% oxygen, 1.4% inert gases).

Types of ventilation:

• Natural - the most common type of air exchange due to the difference in density of warm air inside the room and colder outside. This type of ventilation is simple in design and operation.
• Forced (mechanical) - provided using fans. It can be supply, exhaust or supply and exhaust.
• Mixed - a combination of forced and natural air exchange.

The recommended amount of air exchange is determined based on the number of people living, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises and the type of ventilation. For natural ventilation in premises where there is at least 20 m² of living space per person, an air flow rate of at least 30 m³ per hour is recommended. General rule- at least 3 m³ of air per hour for each square meter of living space.

Ventilation device in a house or apartment

More often, in houses and apartments, mixed ventilation is used with periodic use of forced exhaust ventilation in places of high humidity.

Natural air flow is ensured by ventilation through open windows and doors and infiltration through cracks and leaks in the building envelope.

Modern construction technologies reduce the formation of cracks and other natural places for air to enter. In particular, this applies to . Such structures require special attention:

• Applications of slotted valves in the upper part of window frames.
• Applications of conventional air infiltration valves in external walls.
• Installations of mechanical filters providing both passive and forced air supply. At the same time, it also allows cleaning and changing the temperature of the incoming stream.

To remove air during channelless ventilation, windows, vents and transoms are used. Air removal occurs either due to the difference in air density inside and outside the building, or due to the difference in pressure from the windward and leeward sides. This type of air exchange is the most imperfect.

More successful is the scheme using vertical exhaust ventilation ducts located inside the walls or in attached blocks. To prevent freezing, ventilation ducts passing through cold attic spaces must be insulated. And to enhance traction, equip the exits with deflectors.

Options for organizing ventilation in the premises:

a) Basic mixed ventilation system with periodically switched on exhaust fans in areas of air pollution.	b) Passive duct exhaust ventilation.
c) Forced duct exhaust ventilation.	d) Forced duct supply and exhaust ventilation with recuperation.
1 - a gap of 2 cm under the door.
2 - exhaust fans with duct outlet through the wall.
3 - channels with a diameter of at least 125 mm.
4 - slope not more than 30 °.
5 - channel exhaust fan.
6 - supply and exhaust ventilation system with heat recovery.

Intake openings for the removal of natural exhaust ventilation from the upper areas of the room are placed under the ceiling not lower than 0.4 m from the ceiling and at the same time not lower than 2 m from the floor to the bottom of the openings. This allows you to remove only warm, polluted air from the area located above human height.

In houses with stoves and fireplaces, separate channels are laid to the heating devices, which avoids the lack of air in the combustion zone, the occurrence of reverse draft, and a decrease in oxygen concentration.

Feature of ventilation in houses with stoves and fireplaces:

The use of passive or forced exhaust in the absence of balanced supply ventilation can lead to back draft and the reflux of combustion products into the room.

1 - air infiltration valve or a window in the room adjacent to the steam room.

2 - forced exhaust to remove hot air.

3 - valve to the steam room to ensure 5 - 8 times the replacement of air per hour.

4 - a separate supply channel for a sauna stove.

5 - bath stove.

6 - adjustable air intake for passive exhaust under the upper shelves in the opposite corner from the oven.

7 - additional air flow through a 3-cm gap under the door to the steam room.

8 - stove or fireplace.

9 - a separate supply channel for the furnace.

10 - forced ventilation.

A mechanical exhaust system must be installed in places where polluted air accumulates (above the stove), in places with excessive humidity (bathrooms, saunas, swimming pools). Also, forced ventilation is indispensable at low temperatures and in cases where the air circulation in the house is less than five volumes of the considered space per hour.

Basement ventilation feature:

a) Ventilation in houses with basements that have free air exchange with the living space is organized as in an ordinary multi-storey building.	b) Ventilation in the basement, separated from the living space, is organized as in a separate one-story building.
c) Ventilation in undergrounds and basements of houses with open ground in radon hazardous areas.	d) Ventilation in the undergrounds and basements of houses with a stove on the ground in radon-prone areas.
1 - insulation of soil and building structures with PVC film or waterproofing.
2 - perforated air intake pipe.
3 - permanently open air vents (Smin = 0.05 m²) with a total area of ​​1/100 - 1/150 of the basement area.
4 - constantly working supply ventilation. It creates an air boost inside the room to prevent radon infiltration.
5 - constantly working exhaust fan.
6 - gravel (crushed stone).

Errors in the installation of ventilation in apartments and houses

1. The complete absence of a ventilation system. Banal savings and hope for ordinary ventilation through the windows will not solve all problems. Everything must be planned and justified. Ventilation is required in rooms without windows.
2. Lack of air flow. In modern houses with a continuous contour of heat and vapor barriers, there are no random sources of air circulation. Separate supply channels are also needed for the normal operation of stoves and fireplaces. At the same time, air must be supplied from the street, and not from the underground. This is due to the possibility of the formation of radioactive soil gases in the space under the floor. If a separate channel for furnaces is not provided, then a mechanical supply ventilation will be required.
3. Interroom doors are installed without gaps (grids) from below. When organizing natural ventilation, less polluted air moves from sources of infiltration or open windows and doors through all rooms to the ducted exhaust system. For free air movement, gaps under the doors (S = 80 cm²) and gratings on the doors to the bathrooms (S = 200 cm²) are required.
4. Air communication with stairwells or adjacent rooms. Through leaky channels for the passage of pipes, communications, through sockets and keyholes, polluted air enters the apartment from stairwells or neighboring apartments.
5. Installation of ventilation ducts on external walls and their passage through unheated premises without insulation. As a result of the cooling of the channels, the draft deteriorates, and condensate forms on the internal surfaces. If the air ducts are located near the outer wall, then an air or insulated gap of at least 50 mm must be left between the latter and the air duct.
6. Two or more exhaust ducts in remote areas of the house. This reduces the efficiency of air exchange.
7. The presence of horizontal sections of air ducts. Such areas require the installation of additional fans.
8. Connecting the hood above the stove to the exhaust duct ventilation with closing the hole. As a result, the exhaust air from the kitchen stops. The connection of the hood should be carried out while maintaining the supply grille of the exhaust duct with a check valve installed to prevent the exhaust air from being drawn back into the kitchen.
9. Removal of air from the bathrooms is not through a vertical channel, but through the wall to the street. In cold weather, the air may not be removed through the through channel, but, on the contrary, enter the bathroom. When using an exhaust fan in the same way, its blades may freeze over.
10. Common ventilation duct for two adjacent rooms. With this approach, the air may not be vented to the outside, but mixed between these rooms.
11. Common ventilation duct for rooms on different floors. This contributes to the transfer of polluted air from the lower floor to the upper one.
12. The absence of a separate channel for rooms on the upper floor. This leads to increased humidity, temperature and air pollution.
13. The absence of a separate channel for the premises of the lower floor. Polluted air from the lower floor rises to the upper one, preventing the inflow of fresh air from outside.
14. The absence of an exhaust duct in rooms without windows. This leads to air stagnation.
15. Conclusion of the ventilation duct to the attic. It leads to deterioration of air exchange and moistening of subroofing structures.
16. Laying of air ducts from technical rooms through living rooms. In this case, contaminated air may leak into the residential part of the house.
17. Lack of natural supply and exhaust ventilation of basements. These rooms are places of high humidity and concentration of soil gases. In radon-hazardous areas (Radon is a radiogenic gas that is continuously formed in rocks during the radioactive decay of the uranium-radium series), exhaust ventilation from basements should be isolated from the rest of the house's channels.
18. No or insufficient air circulation in cold undergrounds. In the outer walls of basements and technical undergrounds that do not have hoods, ventilation should be provided with a total area of ​​​​not 1/400 of the floor area. The area of ​​one such hole must be at least 0.05 m². In radon-hazardous areas, the total area of ​​​​the vents should be at least 1/100 - 1/150 of the basement area.
19. Absent or insufficient ventilation of baths and saunas. For an optimal microclimate in such rooms, air exchange of 5-8 volumes per hour should be organized. Air is supplied through a separate supply channel under the stove or heater. Air is removed through an air duct located in the opposite corner of the steam room.
20. Lack of or insufficient attic ventilation. In a roof with a cold attic, the interior space must be ventilated with outside air through special openings in the walls. Their cross-sectional area with a continuous pitched roof should be at least 1/1000 of the overlap area.

Errors in the ventilation device in living quarters and bathrooms:

WRONG	RIGHT
1) Almost tight windows.	1) Air infiltration valve or slotted valves in windows.
2) Condensate.
3) There is no ventilation gap under the interior doors.	2) Air gap or grid S = 80 cm².
4) Cool air comes in when the fan is off.	3) Passive duct hood with a fan that turns on at high humidity.
5) Condensate.	4) Air gap or grid S = 80 cm².
6) Extract through the wall to the street.
7) No ventilation gap or grille.

Errors in the ventilation device in kitchens and in rooms with stoves and fireplaces:

WRONG	RIGHT
1) Connecting the hood instead of installing exhaust ventilation.	1) Extraction into a separate ventilation duct.
2) Lack of ventilation gap under the doors.	2) Air gap (grille) S = 200 cm².
3) Exhaust duct ventilation.	3) Forced ventilation during operation of the furnace.
4) Almost tight windows.	4) Slotted valves in windows.
	5) No exhaust ventilation.
5) Absence of the supply air duct of the furnace (air supply ventilation of the room).	6) Air gap (grille) S = 200 cm².
	7) Supply air duct of the furnace or supply ventilation of the room.

Thus, the design and installation of ventilation in an apartment or house can be done independently. The main thing is to understand, understand the essence of the process and prevent common mistakes discussed in detail in this article.

In modern apartments, plastic windows and airtight insulation are usually installed, so natural ventilation is often blocked. The only way to save health is to install a forced ventilation system.

Our advantages:

More than 500,000 m2 completed

Why do we have the best price?

Minimum terms

100% quality control

Nice mounting features

• Supply ventilation can be installed even if the room has already been renovated.
• Installation time - 1 day!
• Installation in progress without lowering the ceiling and laying air ducts!

The principle of operation of the supply unit with air filtration:

Options for air handling units for an apartment. Prices and description.

Domestic air handling units are used in apartments, houses or small offices for continuous ventilation of rooms with an area of up to 100 m2.

The units are designed to supply fresh air and have different filtering options.

The units are equipped with ceramic PTC heaters for heating the supply air during the cold season. The units are equipped with an automatic system to accurately maintain the set temperature in the room.

Installation	Prices	Description
	45000 rub.	"Selenga EC FKO" is a modern indoor ventilation unit with deep air filtration. "Selenga-FKO EC" is distinguished by additional air purification - a filter and ultraviolet LEDs, the service life of which is 50,000 hours of continuous operation. up to 33 m². Low noise level. Automatic system for precise maintenance of the set temperature. Ideal for rooms in polluted areas or near roads.
	83000 rub. 98000 rub.	"V-STAT FKO 4A" - supply ventilation unit for outdoor placement. Used for room ventilation up to 70 m². Carbon-photocatalytic filter with LEDs. Low noise level. Automation Zentec or GTC. Quick installation, convenient maintenance. The updated version has the ability to provide air to several rooms and a 7-speed EC fan.
	141000 rub. 162000 rub.	"PVU-350 EC" - outdoor ventilation unit. Used for room ventilation up to 100 m². Silent operation. Advanced automation system for precise maintenance of the set temperature and control of the unit. Deep multi-stage air purification using FKO. Quick installation, convenient maintenance. Possibility of breeding with air ducts for several rooms.
	187000 rub. 207000 rub.	Supply climatic complex VENTMACHINE "PVU-500 EC". PVU-500 EC is equipped with a built-in silencer, automation and three-stage air purification (Dust filter, photocatalytic filter, carbon filter). Quick installation, convenient maintenance. Possibility of breeding with air ducts for several rooms.

An example of a ventilation and air conditioning project in an apartment:

Video about the principle of operation of the air handling unit:

Our advantages:

10 years of stable and successful work

More than 500,000 m2 completed

Why do we have the best price?

Minimum terms

100% quality control

5 years warranty for work performed

1500 m2 area of ​​own warehouses

About forced ventilation in the apartment

Air movement in forced ventilation systems occurs due to the operation of mechanical equipment installed in ventilation shafts. Such systems are very diverse - for any apartment you can choose the best option.

Forced ventilation systems are classified according to the principle of operation (supply, exhaust, supply and exhaust) and according to the service area (local, general exchange).

At the same time, ventilation can work both autonomously and in combination with an air conditioning / heating system.

Advantages of forced ventilation in the apartment:

• Creation of the most comfortable microclimate for life and recreation;
• Works in any season and in any weather;
• You can adjust the operation of the system;

Disadvantages of forced ventilation in the apartment:

• Depends on the availability of electricity;
• Requires the cost of purchasing equipment and installation;
• Needs maintenance (infrequently);

Forced ventilation

Recall: The main task of ventilation is to fill the apartment with clean fresh air. Therefore, in order to create a useful microclimate, the main attention is always paid to supply ventilation systems - they pump purified air from the street into the premises, displacing the exhaust air through the ventilation shaft system.

In an apartment, you can use both small local installations for the flow of air into one room, and more bulky central ventilation systems - the choice depends on the purpose of the installation, the availability of free space and the budget.

The simplest forced ventilation device - special valve. Most often, it is mounted in the wall above the radiators so that the supply air is partially warmed up. But this is not necessary - if you are concerned about the possibility of drafts, the mechanism can be installed on any part of the wall and at any height. There are many modifications of valves for every taste, but their maximum capacity in most cases does not exceed 150 m3/h.

Fresh air valves are quite inexpensive and easy to install, but their operation depends significantly on the season: if in winter the valve creates excellent traction, then in summer the room is practically not ventilated.

Breathers and ventilators are considered more reliable and efficient. Unlike a conventional valve, which cleans the outside air only a little, technically sophisticated ventilators can regulate its temperature - heat and cool it. The most modern models offer additional functions of humidity control, ultra-fine cleaning, harmful gas retention and air ionization. The performance of such supply and multi-purification complexes usually varies between 100 - 200 m3 / h.

Advantages of ventilators:

• High degree of air purification;
• Easy installation;
• Low power consumption;

Disadvantages of ventilators:

• High noise level (the fan is in the room);
• High cost of consumables (filters);

The installation of general exchange forced ventilation provides ideal microclimate indicators in each room, however, it requires considerable expenses, therefore, in most cases, they are part of a complex supply and exhaust ventilation.

Exhaust ventilation

The task of exhaust ventilation is to remove exhaust air, air suspension and unpleasant odors from the apartment. Exhaust ventilation systems are divided into local and general exchange. They can work both independently and in combination with natural or forced ventilation.

A feature of all exhaust ventilation systems is the presence of outlet channels through which the exhaust air is removed outside the room. At the same time, air intake grilles are always installed in the kitchen and bathroom. Due to this arrangement of the outflow paths, unpleasant odors and moisture do not spread throughout the apartment and are "locked" in a limited area.

A typical example of local exhaust ventilation combined with a natural ventilation system is kitchen hood.

Quite often, small fans are installed in the ventilation shafts of the bath and bathroom - to remove excess moisture and unpleasant odors from the premises.

Supply and exhaust ventilation of the apartment

The installation of a central exhaust ventilation is advisable only in combination with forced ventilation. At the same time, both low-performance valves and a full-fledged forced ventilation system can provide air flow. In the case of joint work, the performance of supply and exhaust ventilation is balanced, and the air exchange rate is selected in accordance with the norms of a healthy microclimate.

Advantages of supply and exhaust systems:

• Ensuring ideal microclimate parameters throughout the apartment;
• Guaranteed removal of unpleasant odors from the kitchen and bathroom;
• High efficiency at any time of the year;

Disadvantages of supply and exhaust systems:

• Cost of equipment;
• The complexity of installation;
• They occupy a large volume (forced installation of a false ceiling);

Recuperation units for an apartment

The disadvantage of many supply ventilation systems is the high energy consumption for heating or cooling the air entering the apartment. Recuperation units will help reduce energy consumption - they use the thermal energy of the exhausted air masses to heat fresh air from the street.

With a high temperature difference between the street and the apartment, the recovery unit will not be able to achieve the required parameters, and the air will have to be heated up, however, the energy consumption in this case will be much lower than for conventional supply air heating.

The higher the efficiency of the model, the less the need for additional air heating. On average, the efficiency of modern air handling units is 85-90%, which often makes it possible to completely abandon the use of a heater.

Monoblock air handling units with a heat exchanger take up relatively little space - they can be installed on a balcony or loggia. Among the products of leading manufacturers of climatic equipment, models with a capacity of 150 to 2000 m3 / h are widely distributed. For comparison, in a one-room superior apartment with an area of ​​60 m2 with two residents, air exchange is required on average from 300 to 500 m3/h.

Combining ventilation and air conditioning in the apartment

A city apartment rarely boasts of having extra space, so the combination of ventilation and air conditioning systems into a single complex not only reduces installation costs, but also saves valuable space.

The simplest version of the ventilation and air conditioning system is the usual fresh air air conditioner. He will not be able to provide full-fledged air exchange, but at least in one room there will be an influx of fresh air. It can be used in conjunction with Ventmashine ventilation units.

Another option for connoisseurs of comfort will be channel system ventilation and air conditioning. It is based on a central air conditioner with the option of adding fresh air or a supply and exhaust unit with a cooler. If desired, the unit can be additionally equipped with a heat exchanger.

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Regardless of whether the ventilation in the apartment is done by oneself or with the help of specialists, it should contribute to the creation of a healthy microclimate in the room.

And also we will analyze the nuances of arranging the hood and organizing the flow of fresh air.

Since air exchange directly affects the quality of life, scientific studies were carried out to determine its optimal parameters, the results of which are reflected in the regulations.

The main document regulating the rules for the organization of ventilation of residential premises is SP 54.13330.2016“Residential multi-apartment buildings”, updated edition SNiP 31-01-2003.

Rules for calculating the minimum air exchange volume

The minimum air volume for different types of rooms can be calculated using the data in Table 9.1. SP 54.13330.2016.

When calculating, you cannot simply sum up the received numbers. For living rooms, air exchange is understood as the intake of air from the outside and its outflow into the kitchen, bathroom, etc., and for technical premises - the inflow from the living rooms and the release outside the apartment.

Therefore, it is necessary to separately calculate the required volumes of inflow and exhaust in order to take the maximum value of these two values ​​as a result.

There is one nuance here. The designer of an apartment building is obliged to calculate the inflow value for calculating the heat balance, and the exhaust value for calculating the parameters of the ventilation units.

Residents of apartments have the right, at their discretion, to implement ventilation of a lower throughput, which in the vast majority of cases happens.

An example of calculating the minimum air exchange volume for typical apartments in accordance with the requirements of SP 54.13330.2016. It must be carried out to understand the required power of ventilation devices

It is possible to independently determine the volume of air exchange with good accuracy only when using forced ventilation.

We examined a detailed calculation of ventilation with formulas and real examples of calculation for specific rooms in.

With natural air circulation, it is necessary to pay attention to the following indicators:

• excess moisture in the air(can be measured with a hygrometer) - expressed in the appearance of a fungus on the walls and ceiling, as well as fogging of window panes in the winter;
• lack of oxygen or excess of carbon dioxide(can be measured using a gas analyzer) - expressed in the difficulty of breathing of all people who are in the apartment.

If such effects can be observed throughout the apartment, then this means a lack of general supply or exhaust ventilation. If they occur in separate rooms, then this indicates local air exchange problems associated with the formation of air stagnation zones.

Modern room gas analyzers show the content of carbon dioxide, temperature and relative humidity of the air - the main indicators of the microclimate of a residential building

How to ensure air circulation?

According to paragraphs 9.6 and 9.7 SP 54.13330.2016 the supply of outside air must be ensured in the living rooms and the kitchen, and the removal from the kitchens, bathrooms and latrines.

At the same time, it is unacceptable for air from technical rooms to enter other parts of the apartment. It must be led directly to the ventilation shaft.

Thus, it is quite easy to draw up a diagram of the movement of air, depending on the layout of the apartment, when it will enter from the outside in rooms with windows, and the outflow will occur at the exits of the ventilation shafts.

An example of a scheme for the movement of air in a standard-plan apartment with two exits to the ventilation shafts located in the kitchen and bathroom

The movement of air between the premises of the apartment should also occur with tightly closed doors.

To do this, you can do the following:

• installation of special ventilation holes, which are ordinary holes in the door, closed with special decorative elements;
• the use of a door frame without a threshold, which allows you to leave a gap of 5-10 mm between the floor and the closed door;
• owners of domestic cats are often forced to install manholes in interior doors, which also serve as an air vent.

The procedure for organizing ventilation in doors made of solid wood, chipboard or MDF is quite simple. To do this, use a drill or a jigsaw to cut holes into which special rings will be planted on glue.

Or you can make one window and close it with a decorative grill, which must be attached to the door with self-tapping screws.

In order to cut a vent in an interior door and close it with a decorative grill, you only need a jigsaw and an adhesive gun

It is quite difficult to cut ventilation holes in a plastic or, even more so, a glass door on your own. This requires skill and a special tool, otherwise there is a high risk of damage to the door, and serious injury is also possible.

Creating conditions for the operation of the hood

With poor air exchange, it is impossible to create a positive microclimate in the room. Therefore, in any house, special ventilation shafts are provided for the outflow of air from the apartments to the outside.

Most of the work related to ensuring the correct functioning of exhaust ventilation can be performed independently without the involvement of specialists.

Checking the operation of the ventilation shaft

The influx of fresh air into the apartment can occur in different places, and the removal can be done using one or two openings leading to the ventilation shafts. Therefore, by the strength of the flow through them, it is easiest to judge the intensity of air exchange.

To do this, you need to attach a sheet of plain paper to the ventilation grill, completely closing it.

Normal airflow will cause the paper to stick to the exhaust port. Otherwise, we can state the fact of the absence of normal air exchange in the apartment.

It is not safe to check the draft into the ventilation shaft with an open flame. Accumulated dust or gas leakage may cause a fire

To find out the root cause of poor traction, open the window or front door closest to the hole and reattach the sheet to the grate.

In this case, there are two options:

• if the paper “sticks” to the grate, then this means insufficient air flow with the windows closed;
• if the flow remains so weak that it is not able to hold the paper, then the problem is in the ventilation shaft or in the branch that leads to it.

If the lack of air exchange has arisen due to problems with the ventilation shaft, then it is necessary to contact the managing organization responsible for the apartment building.

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Any opening leading to the ventilation shaft must be installed. It protects the room from changing the direction of the air flow and from entering air from the mine, which often does not meet sanitary and hygienic standards.

Reverse flow can occur for the following reasons:

• a gradual decrease in the free section of the mine channel as a result of clogging;
• a sharp decrease in the free section of the mine channel as a result of the ingress of a foreign object;
• increase in air flow from neighboring apartments.

The check valve can be installed separately, but it is easier to purchase it complete with a fan and grill.

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When choosing a location for the valve, the following points must be considered:

• ease and safety of installation of an external lattice for apartments located not on the first floor;
• correct placement of the internal valve head from the point of view of the design of the room;
• the possibility of heating the incoming air from stationary heating devices.

Therefore, the most popular place to install the valve is the space between the window and the radiator.

For more intensive air supply, valves with built-in fans are used. However, they require an electrical supply and make some noise, especially audible at night.

Installation of two or three devices providing natural air flow is easier and cheaper than installing a wall inlet with ventilation

In addition to the supply valve equipped with a fan, a humidifier can also be connected to maintain a favorable microclimate in the living room.

However, they must be correctly entered into the design of the room, since the entire structure will take up much more space than the head of an ordinary device.

Installation of duct air exchange systems

When installing duct ventilation systems or kitchen hoods, special boxes or flexible corrugated pipes are used.

They are also needed to move air from technical rooms to a remote entrance to the ventilation shaft. You can carry out the installation of such an air duct on your own.

Basic rules for duct design

For apartments, there is no need to use metal ventilation ducts designed to pass air at high speeds and to operate at sub-zero temperatures. Plastic boxes are easy to install and easy to fit into the design of any room.

You can find many proposals that differ in color, cross-sectional area, shape, method of connecting sections and method of fastening to walls and ceilings.

The presence of a large number of shaped elements allows you to create a ventilation duct of any geometry. The choice between a round and rectangular cross-sectional shape is not fundamental from a technical point of view.

The size of the plastic ventilation duct for the apartment must be selected in such a way that the air flow rate at maximum load is from 1 to 2 m/s

When designing duct geometry, it is desirable to minimize the number of turns, constrictions, and transitions that increase aerodynamic resistance to flow, generate noise, and accumulate grease and dust deposits.

Features of the installation of plastic boxes

The plastic parts of the ventilation duct are lightweight, so they do not require any special actions during fastening.

Depending on their location, installation takes place as follows:

1. Inside the cabinets, the elements are fastened with clamps to the cabinet walls. Foam or foam rubber inserts are introduced into the places where they pass through walls and partitions to prevent rattling during system operation.
2. Above the cabinets, the elements are fixed using any holders and self-tapping screws.
3. The structure is fixed to the wall and ceiling with the help of special clamps, which can be purchased for any channel size. The distance between fasteners should be no more than 1 meter.

Immediately after the installation of the ventilation duct, which will subsequently be hidden behind a stretch or suspended ceiling, it is necessary to check its operation at the maximum possible air flow. Detected problems are easier to fix immediately, while access to the system is not difficult.

It is quite simple to securely fix the elements of the plastic ventilation duct with the help of special clamps. They are not expensive, so it is better not to use independent solutions.

By smearing the joints of the elements with silicone sealant, you can get an additional guarantee of the tightness of the structural joints.

For these purposes, it is not necessary to use glue or “liquid nails” type compounds, since in the future it will be practically impossible to disassemble the system for maintenance or changing its configuration.

If depressurization nevertheless occurred, and to eliminate it there is no way to disassemble the air duct, then in this case it is necessary to wrap the problematic joint with self-adhesive tape to match the color of the shaped elements.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

All stages of installation of the simplest wall-mounted inlet valve:

The procedure for ensuring ventilation through interior doors:

Combination of natural and forced ventilation using a tee and a check valve:

Checking the quality of air exchange in the apartment and most of the work related to ensuring normal air circulation can be done on your own. However, to install complex equipment or perform work associated with risk, it is better to invite specialists.

Are you engaged in the arrangement of ventilation systems and are you well versed in the topic? Maybe you noticed an inaccuracy or an error in the reviewed material? Please write to us about it in the comments.

Or do you have any difficulties in arranging the ventilation system and want to clarify certain points? Ask for advice from our engineer - we will try to help you.