How to properly grow tomatoes in a greenhouse. Technology for growing tomatoes in polycarbonate greenhouses: secrets and tips for high yield, photo

If you want to pamper yourself with fresh fruits and vegetables both in summer and winter, then the ideal option would be to grow various crops in greenhouses.

Almost any kind of plant can be grown in such a protected ground, for example, tomatoes.

But there are a number of nuances that should be well studied before starting preparation for growing.

You will find the most up-to-date information in this article.

The greenhouse can be built from polycarbonate, glass or even plastic film, but in all cases, the place for the future structure should be well lit by sunlight, which tomatoes love so much.

To make the tomatoes comfortable, you need to do good ventilation systemso that there is no stagnation of air.

In the case of plastic greenhouse walls, strong temperature drops at night are possible, so you need to make every effort to protect the bushes. To do this, not one, but two layers of film are stretched onto the supports, and between these layers there should be a layer 2 - 4 cm thick.

This air cushion will act as protection against low temperatures.

This method of growing tomatoes has both pros and cons.

Advantages:

• indoors, you can control the temperature (frost will not damage tomatoes), humidity, the amount of oxygen and carbon dioxide;
• greenhouse bushes have a higher yield than those grown in the open air;
• biologics work better in confined spaces.

disadvantages:

• the construction of a greenhouse and its maintenance leads to high financial costs;
• without special treatment, various pests and diseases receive especially suitable conditions for development;
• when sold, such tomatoes have a high cost price.

The preparation of planting material begins with growing seedlings. Seeds can be bought or prepared independently.

If you purchased the seeds and see that they have a bright enough color (i.e. coated), then they do not need processing.

In any other case, 15-20 minutes before planting, the seeds should be placed in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. After disinfection, the seeds must be thoroughly rinsed.

As for the time for planting, the period is suitable. from February to the end of March... Sowing is done in special containers called cassettes.

The cassette itself consists of many compartments that need to be filled with earth. You can also plant seeds in an ordinary low box (5 - 7 cm high).

The land for future seedlings should be rich, so you need to take sod land, peat with humus in equal proportions. Next, this mixture needs to be slightly moistened and sand (1 kg per bucket of earth), ash (1 tablespoon) and a little superphosphate (1 tablespoon) are added.

The finished mixture must be poured into a box, tamped, made small grooves, the depth of which should be about 1 - 1.5 cm. pour over sodium humate solution room temperature.

After completing these procedures, you can sow seeds, which then need to be covered with an earthen mixture. The box with future seedlings should be sufficiently lit, and the air temperature around should not drop below 22 ° C. After 5 after planting, the box must be covered with foil. Thanks to this, the seeds will sprout faster.

After 2 leaves grow on the shoot (this will come about 7-10 days after planting), you need to dive.

Diving is the transplanting of seedlings into larger containers.

Each seedling must be carefully removed from the box, without the need to shake the soil from the roots.

The seedlings can be kept in boxes for no more than 50 days, the length of the shoot by that time will be about 30 cm. The seedlings are characterized by stretching, that is, the shoots are long, but very thin.

To prevent this from happening, you need to regularly rotate each seedling so that each side of the seedling gets enough sunlight. Before planting, the seedlings can be hardened, that is, they can be left, for example, on a balcony with open windows. This procedure can be carried out approximately 10 days before planting.

There are many varieties of tomatoes, but not all of them will be able to produce a good harvest in a greenhouse. But among all the varieties, there are varieties that bear fruit excellently. For instance:

• Variety "Hurricane F1"

  This variety is a hybrid, ripens quickly. Begins to bear fruit 90 days after the seedlings have sprung up. The tomatoes are round, with a smooth surface and uniform color. The weight of one fruit can be up to 90 g.

• Variety "Blagovest F1"

  Early ripe variety, hybrid. The fruits are round, weighing 100 - 110 g.

• Variety "Typhoon F1"

  Hybrid, ripens quickly (after 90 - 95 days). Fruits are round, weighing up to 90 g.

• Variety "Samara F1"

  Hybrid, early ripening variety. Fruiting in 85 - 90 days after germination. Fruits are of good taste, round in shape, weighing up to 80 g

• Variety "Miracle of the Earth"

  Highly high yielding variety... The fruits are elongated, heart-shaped, very weighty (weight reaches 400 - 500 g).

Soil preparation:

Before planting tomatoes in the greenhouse, you need to ventilate the room, remove 10 - 12 cm of topsoil, and treat the remaining soil with a hot solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Most suitable for tomatoes loamy and sandy loam soils... Before planting, the soil needs fertilization, so 1 sq.m. soil you need to add 3 buckets of a mixture of peat, sawdust and humus (proportions 1: 1: 1). In addition to organic fertilizers, mineral fertilizers are also needed. It is necessary to add superphosphate (3 tablespoons), potassium sulfate (1 tablespoon), potassium magnesium (1 tablespoon), sodium nitrate (1 tbsp) and ash (1 - 2 cups).

Among other things, tomatoes do not like "neighbors" very much, so this room should be divided with film partitions, which will provide a separate microclimate for each type of plant.

Landing scheme:

Tomato beds must be prepared in advance, they should be 25 - 30 cm in height and 60 - 90 cm in width. For the aisles, you can leave about 60 - 70 cm. But the planting scheme directly depends on the variety of tomato and the characteristics of its bush.

For example, in low-growing varieties that ripen quickly, 2 - 3 shoots are formed, so they need to be planted in two rows, observing a checkerboard pattern, while two bushes should be placed at a distance of 35 cm from each other.

In standard tomatoes, 1 shoot is well developed, therefore, seedlings can be planted denser, but not too much. The distance between two adjacent bushes should be about 25 - 30 cm. Tall varieties need more space, so they need to be planted every 60 - 70 cm.

Moving on to planting tomatoes

Tomatoes are thermophilic and quite capricious, especially if grown in greenhouses. Stationary greenhouses, which are now very popular, allow you to enjoy the taste of fresh vegetables all year round, but at the same time they demand from the vegetable grower daily attention and care of tomatoes from the moment of planting seedlings to harvesting. In this article we will tell you what activities are involved in caring for tomatoes after planting in a greenhouse, and to what extent they need to be performed in order to grow decent harvest.

Transplanting

We will not dwell on the intricacies of growing seedlings, but start right away with planting them in a greenhouse. As you know, greenhouse tomatoes are best grown through seedlings, so the process of transplanting plants from pots into the greenhouse should be given special attention. First of all, you need to grow or purchase high-quality seedlings. The quality of seedlings is determined by the following criteria:

Such a seedling, with proper planting and proper care, will take root as quickly as possible in the greenhouse and in short time will begin to bear fruit.

Now about the landing itself. The time for planting seedlings depends on the climate of the region and the equipment of the greenhouse. In stationary heated polycarbonate structures, tomatoes can be grown all year round, but in a greenhouse without heating, and even more so with a film greenhouse, you must wait until the soil warms up to 15-16 ° C.

The composition of the soil into which the seedlings will be transplanted from pots should also be taken care of in advance. To grow early vegetables in spring, it is advisable to start preparing the soil in the fall, after the last harvest. If vegetables are grown year-round, then you should make sure that after harvesting the next harvest, the land rests for at least a month.

Before each new planting, the soil in the greenhouse must be refreshed, and if it is completely depleted, then replaced. Immediately after the end of fruiting, the bed should be dug up, freed from all plant residues and lumps, and then disinfected. If the previous plants were sick, then it is better to replace the top layer of soil. During digging, it is recommended to apply organic fertilizers, and shortly before planting seedlings - a mineral complex.

Many vegetable growers prefer to use schemes for planting tomatoes, however, when growing greenhouse, one should take into account not only the varietal characteristics of the plants, but also the amount of usable area. In a greenhouse, a slight compaction of the bushes is permissible, but planting should be done so that the adult plants are not too crowded:

• tall (indeterminate, forming in one stem) varieties should be planted in rows at a distance of 60-70 cm between rows and 70-80 cm between bushes;
• undersized bushes can be planted at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other and 40-50 cm between rows.

To save space in the greenhouse, it is recommended to use a checkerboard planting pattern, in which the distance between two rows can be reduced to 40 cm, and the path between the ribbons can be left 0.8 m wide.Plants should be buried in the ground no more than 4 cm.If the seedlings are too stretched out, the landing should be made deeper and at an angle of 45 °. Before planting, the wells should be well watered with warm (18-20 ° C) water, and until it is absorbed, plant the seedling. This technique allows the roots to straighten faster.

Video "Planting seedlings"

From the video you will learn how to properly plant tomato seedlings.

Care

After planting seedlings in the greenhouse, a new and even more important stage begins - caring for plants, which has its own characteristics. The first 10-15 days, the seedlings will take root, for this process to be successful, it is necessary to maintain a certain microclimate in the greenhouse. The temperature should be set at 20-22 ° C. If the weather is sunny, then young plants should be slightly shaded from direct rays.

Since the soil is well moistened during planting, there is no need to water the seedlings for the next 10 days, you can only cover the ground in the aisles with a thin layer of mulch. All caring activities begin 10 days after planting, or after the plants begin to grow in a new place.

Watering

Watering should be started no earlier than the tomatoes will grow. Pulling out the stem and branches is a signal that the plant has taken root, and it needs food, including water. It is not recommended to water in the past, since excessive moisture can lead to root rot and the death of the seedling.

In winter and spring, watering is carried out at intervals of 1 time / 5-7 days, if the soil dries out earlier, it is necessary to lower the temperature. Water consumption for young plants is 5-7 l / 1 m² of the bed. As the bushes develop, the rate increases: with the beginning of flowering up to 12 liters, and with the onset of hot weather and the beginning of fruiting - up to 15 liters.

Watering is recommended in the absence of direct sunlight - in the evening or early morning. The water for irrigation should be about the same temperature as the soil so that the plants are not stressed. You need to water at the root, avoiding moisture on the foliage. It is good if the greenhouse is equipped with a drip irrigation system, but if it is not, then this can be done using a watering can with a long spout or a bottle.

Airing

Excessive humidity is unbearable for tomatoes, and since moisture accumulation in the greenhouse is inevitable, ventilation is an essential part of plant care. Condensation occurs in greenhouses from high temperatures. This usually happens when the sun shines most of the day and the temperature in the greenhouse rises to 30 ° C or more. In such conditions, tomatoes begin to shed flowers and ovaries, and fungal diseases develop on the leaves.

In the spring, the greenhouse should be ventilated daily by simply opening the vents. Strong drafts are harmful for tomatoes, but a light breeze will benefit them, so in calm weather you can open the through vents. With the arrival of constant heat, the windows can be opened by a quarter, thereby attracting pollinating insects to the greenhouse. The ventilation procedure should be carried out until all the moisture in the greenhouse is dry, but in warm weather it can be longer.

Temperature

Maintaining temperature regime in the greenhouse is to equalize day and night temperatures. Usually in those regions where greenhouse tomato cultivation is practiced, the climate is not stable, and the night and day temperatures are very different. If the daytime temperature rises above 30 ° C, and the nighttime temperature drops to 10 ° C, then such a heat-loving culture as a tomato may simply die.

The optimal temperature for the normal development of tomatoes is considered to be at the level of 20-22 ° C, while an increase of up to 25 ° C is permissible during the day, but 28 ° C is already a threshold, exceeding which can lead to the falling of leaves, flowers or ovaries. The night temperature should be kept at 16-18 ° C, but not below 15 ° C. You also need to monitor the humidity in the room. Air humidity of 65-70% is considered normal - this level also indicates that soil moisture is also within normal limits.

Pollination

Most varieties of tomatoes are capable of self-pollination, but in greenhouse conditions this process is complicated due to various reasons: the absence of insects and wind, high humidity, due to which the pollen ceases to be crumbly. Therefore, with the beginning of flowering, plants need to be helped to pollinate artificially, using a brush, cotton wool or other improvised method.

Some greenhouse owners bring in a hive with bees during flowering. This approach, of course, is good, but not everyone is available, and it is justified only in relation to large stationary greenhouses. For a small space, it is enough to simply open the windows so that the bees have access to the plants or manually pollinate the flowers.

Hand pollination is carried out with a natural bristle brush. The procedure is best carried out in the morning at a temperature of 24-25 ° C and a humidity of 70% - in such conditions, the pollen becomes crumbly and is easily tolerated. The most suitable time for pollination is the day after the flower has fully opened.

Bush formation

In greenhouses, indeterminate (tall) varieties of tomatoes are most often grown, which must be formed into 1 stem with further pinching and tying to a support. It is necessary to form the bushes within a week after they have taken root in a new place, and the support (trellis or pegs) should be installed even during planting.

Young plants should be tied to the support 7-10 days after planting in the greenhouse, then it will be easier to control the further growth of the stems. As for the removal of stepchildren, when forming into one stem, it is allowed to leave one of the lowest ones, and remove all the others as they appear. It is better to pick tomatoes in the morning, so that the fracture site can be tightened until the evening, besides, in the morning the processes are more fragile and easily break off.

Grasshopping of tall bushes is carried out until 7-8 fruit brushes appear, after which the top of the stem should be pinched off, and the lower leaves should be torn off - this will restrain the growth of the plant and direct its forces towards ripening the fruits. Low-growing tomatoes form 2-3 stalks, leaving the strongest lower stepsons. Otherwise, the procedure is no different from the formation of tall bushes.

Top dressing

Tomatoes, in the process of their growth, consume a lot of nutrients, therefore, despite fertilizing the soil when planting, during the season the bushes are fed 3-4 more times. Plants equally need organic and mineral fertilizing, but since mineral fertilizers contribute to the accumulation of nitrates in fruits, it is recommended to use them only in early spring or during the first feeding, but no later than 1.5-2 months before harvesting. The rest of the time, root dressings are carried out with organic solutions:

The average consumption of liquid fertilizer is 1 liter per bush, but the size of the plant must be taken into account.

Diseases and problems

In the process of growing greenhouse tomatoes, vegetable growers are faced with many problems associated with both diseases and violations of agricultural technology. The most common ones are:

• falling leaves and flowers;
• twisting and then dying off of leaf plates;
• stopping the growth and development of bushes;
• incomplete ripening of fruits, as well as the absence of an ovary on the upper hands;
• weakening of the plant.

If the bushes look healthy and powerful, but the ovaries are not forming, this means that all the nutrients are used to build up the vegetative mass. The reason for this phenomenon may be an excess of mineral fertilizers, too intensive watering or insufficient lighting. What to do in this situation? First of all, suspend watering for a week and raise the temperature in the greenhouse to 24-25 ° C.

Falling flowers and ovaries, on the contrary, occurs from excessive dryness of the soil and air. In this case, the greenhouse should be ventilated more often, the temperature should be reduced, and watering should be increased.

If the plant does not have enough strength to ripen all the fruits, just pick the brushes ahead of time, they will ripen perfectly in a few days in the sun.

The plant becomes weak from a lack of light or nutrients. If the greenhouse is well lit, try reviving the tomatoes with additional organic top dressing or by spraying the tops with a boric acid solution.

The most common disease in greenhouses is late blight. Spores of this fungus are activated against a background of high humidity and with an overly thickened planting. It is very difficult to fight the fungus, but you can stop the development of late blight by treating plants with Fitosporin 1 time / 10 days. To avoid the development of various putrefactive processes, it is necessary to avoid contact of leaves with the ground. To do this, it is recommended to break off the lower tier, and cover the soil around the bushes with mulch.

For those who love tomatoes, planting and caring for them in the greenhouse has long become a habitual occupation. So you can provide yourself with tomatoes from early June to late autumn. But for the harvest to please, you need to grow varieties designed specifically for greenhouses, and comply with a number of agrotechnical requirements.

When buying seeds, you should give preference to hybrid varieties. They are resistant to major diseases, tolerate greenhouse conditions well and consistently provide a rich harvest. You need to pay attention to the letter F on the package.

The following varieties of polycarbonate greenhouse tomatoes are especially popular with experienced gardeners:

1. Samara F1 is an early fruitful variety, resistant to most diseases, abundant fruiting, red tomatoes, do not crack.
2. De Barao is a variety preferred by many summer residents. Dense tomatoes are great for canning. There are different colors - red, yellow, orange, even black.
3. Bovine heart - despite the fact that the variety does not differ in abundant fruiting, it is appreciated for its exceptional taste. Tomatoes are large, sugary on the break, perfect for salads.
4. Wonder of the Earth - ripens early, while tolerating drought quite well. The fruits are large, especially good when eaten fresh.
5. Pink honey is a versatile variety, tomatoes can be grown both in the greenhouse and in the open field. The plant is tall, requires tying, pink fruits, delicious in salads. As you might guess from the name - the taste is sweetish.
6. Kira F1 - hybrid, orange tomatoes, harvest early ripens, fruiting amicable.
7. Caspar F1 - gardeners have already appreciated this variety. Red tomatoes, resembling peppers in shape, have excellent taste, suitable for salads and canning. The hybrid is resistant to most diseases.

When choosing early ripening, mid-ripening and late varieties of tomatoes for planting in a greenhouse, you need to take into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe site. In addition, the size of the greenhouse will influence the choice of varieties. Tall varieties are not suitable for a small greenhouse. If the greenhouse is high and large, then low tomatoes are planted around the perimeter, and tall ones in the center.

Greenhouses are characterized by warm and humid air, so various bacteria can develop here. Tomato varieties should be chosen that are resistant to diseases and tolerate well moist soil.

Harvest varieties of tomatoes are a guarantee that the labor associated with growing will not be in vain.

Preparing a tomato greenhouse

If the greenhouse has already been used, in the fall you need to remove the remains of old plants and weeds from it, and then dig up the soil.

In the spring, the earth is loosened, ash is added. Nitrogen plays an important role in the proper development of tomatoes. You can saturate the soil with it with the help of manure. Planting green manure plants such as phacelia, mustard or peas also has a good effect.

The most serious danger for tomatoes is late blight. So that the seedlings do not get sick, the soil can be treated with one of the appropriate preparations bought in the store, or with this solution: 3 kg of slaked lime and 500 g of copper sulfate are diluted in 10 liters of water.

Before the very planting of seedlings, the earth is spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Growing seedlings at home

Experienced gardeners begin to plant seeds in the first decade of March. If you are using seeds from your own tomatoes, immerse them in a warm solution of pink potassium permanganate. It is advisable to use only those seeds that have sunk to the bottom of the container within 10 minutes.

Then the seeds are washed and kept wrapped in a damp cloth for several days. As soon as sprouts begin to appear, the seeds are "hardened": 2-3 times they are placed in the refrigerator for 12 hours.

Seeds bought in a store do not need to be disinfected with potassium permanganate, but hardening is very useful for them.

The best option would be to use purchased ready-made soil. But for those summer residents who grow a large number of seedlings, such a purchase can be too expensive. In this case, they use the land from their site, which has been harvested since autumn - ash, compost are added to it, watered with potassium permanganate.

Seeds are planted in boxes with prepared soil or in separate cups, you can also use cardboard bags from juice or milk. If the seedlings will not stand on a sunny window, you will have to use fluorescent lamps.

After planting the seeds, the boxes are covered with glass or transparent film. Seedlings should appear within a week.

Water the seedlings as needed, feed them with complex fertilizers after the first true leaves appear.

If tomatoes are planted in a common box, then after the appearance of real leaves they are dived, planted in separate cups. 2 weeks after the pick, they are fed a second time.

Planting tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse

It is better to plant tomatoes in the greenhouse in the late afternoon, so that they do not immediately appear in the bright sun. The distance between plants must be at least 30 cm.

Seasoned tomatoes will tolerate transplanting better - if before that they were taken outside for several hours every day.

The time for planting seedlings depends on which greenhouse. The heated room is ready to receive green residents already at the end of April, the unheated one - from the middle of May. The air temperature inside the greenhouse should be about +25 C. After planting, the tomatoes are watered abundantly.

This is one of the most critical stages in growing tomatoes.

Greenhouse care

First of all, this is watering. It should be done once every 3-4 days. If there are a lot of tomatoes, it is more convenient to use the automatic system. Ideally, drip irrigation. But it is undesirable to pour water from a hose. Chlorinated water that has not settled is not very useful for plants, and a jet from a hose will break the ground around the tomatoes.

When growing a small amount of tomatoes, it will be convenient to use a watering can with settled water.

You need to pour water at the root, if the drops hit the leaves - they can then be burned by sunlight.

Fertilizer after planting seedlings is applied twice. The first time, when young tomatoes started in a new place, the second time, when an ovary appeared.

You can use ammonium and calcium nitrate. Or buy fertilizer in liquid form, dilute it in water, and water the plants.

As the tomatoes grow, the lower leaves should be trimmed, but be careful not to damage the stem, and pinch as needed. With proper pruning, the yield will be larger, as the ovaries will get the nutrients.

Tomatoes are also tied to supports to provide plants best conditions for development.

The main problems associated with growing

What are the main problems when growing tomatoes in a greenhouse can a summer resident face?

1. Tomatoes bloom, but there is no ovary. This is the so-called fattening. Tomatoes delight appearance - strong stems, rich colored leaves, but the flower raceme is weak. The reason is an oversupply of fertilizers, for example, nitrogen fertilization. How can you deal with this?

• Wash nitrogen with abundant watering (8-10 liters under a bush);
• Carry out potassium dressing using potassium sulfate (1.5-2 g per plant).

2. Tomatoes begin to shed their leaves and fruits. This suggests that they lack moisture - they need to water more often and more abundantly.

In order for tomatoes in a greenhouse to give a generous harvest, the combination of the three main conditions for proper growth - lighting, moisture and feeding - must be optimal and timely.

Why do tomatoes crack in the greenhouse?

This is a fairly common problem with greenhouse tomatoes. Dense and yellow tomatoes are especially prone to crack. For some varieties, this feature is genetically determined.

This is a peculiar reaction of plants, which can be associated with overheating of the soil, or abundant watering after the tomatoes have experienced a drought, as well as with a lack of trace elements.

What to do?

• Maintain the humidity level. In the greenhouse, it should be 50% or more.
• Water regularly and evenly.
• Apply soil mulching.
• Ventilate the greenhouse.
• Shade the area from the scorching sun with agrofiber.

Diseases, pests and methods of dealing with them

It would seem that tomatoes in greenhouse conditions should not get sick. However, the diseases common to this vegetable do affect tomatoes, both outdoors and in greenhouses.

Powdery mildew. Tomatoes are sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate. The damaged leaves are broken off and burned. Complex fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and potassium are additionally introduced into the soil. Spraying with infusion of cow dung helps a lot.

It's harder to get rid of phytophthora... We'll have to turn to special drugs such as Fitosporin. The affected leaves are cut off, the tomatoes are sprayed with iodine solution (10 ml per bucket of water), this procedure is repeated twice, with an interval of 3 days.

To avoid top rot it is necessary to feed the plants with calcium. To do this, make an infusion of eggshell, watering them at the root while still in the seedling stage.

It is undesirable to use strong chemicals in the greenhouse in order to subsequently obtain environmentally friendly fruits.

How to prepare your greenhouse for winter after tomatoes?

When the last crop is harvested, the greenhouses are ready for winter. First of all, plant residues are removed. If late blight overwinters in a greenhouse, then next season it will hit young plants.

It is recommended to remove the film coating so that it does not break during the winter. The film is treated with a solution of copper sulfate, then dried and removed until the next season. In this case, the ground in the greenhouse is covered with snow, and in spring it is saturated with melt water, which is very useful for plants.

The glass greenhouse is washed with soapy water, adding potassium permanganate. Particular attention is paid to those places where dirt (and, therefore, bacteria) accumulates. The damaged glass is replaced, the cracks are sealed with putty for the winter.

A polycarbonate greenhouse can be washed from the inside with water and baking soda, or use a dishwashing detergent. It is best to use soft sponges or rags for cleaning.

Wooden supports are treated with a solution of copper sulfate.

During the winter, snow is thrown into a polycarbonate or glass greenhouse.

The soil inside the greenhouse is dug up, but the clods of earth are left intact - this is a guarantee of the death of pests during cold weather. You can do the opposite: spill the earth with boiling water and cover with foil.

An excellent disinfectant is the use of sulfur bombs. They allow you to get rid of mold, fungi, even in severe cases when the wooden supports turn black, various types of infections in all corners of the greenhouse. Checkers are placed on a metal sheet and set on fire.

It is also useful to add dolomite flour or lime to the soil. In addition to disinfecting properties, these substances are fertilizers.

When using the greenhouse for more than 5 years, it is recommended to replace the soil in it with fresh soil.

If the dacha is located in places that are characterized by heavy snowfalls, several props made of wood or metal are installed in greenhouses so that the structure is not damaged by a heavy layer of snow.

If used correctly, the greenhouse will last for many years.

Evgeny Sedov

When your hands grow from the right place, life is more fun :)

Content

Many gardeners in our country prefer growing tomatoes in a greenhouse. open ground, because there you can create attractive conditions for obtaining a rich harvest, early ripening of fruits. Tomatoes love warmth, so under the harsh Russian conditions, you need to grow them on the sunny side, following simple care tips.

Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse

To know how to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse correctly, you need to follow simple, but mandatory steps of care, starting with seed treatment and ending with the formation of fruits. Planting vegetables using a greenhouse is popular with gardeners, because the land heats up there faster, the harvest appears 2 weeks earlier, and the fruits are not subject to late blight diseases. The pluses also include the richness of the crop - the tomatoes grown in the greenhouse in their volume exceed the same volume from the ground by 250%.

Processing tomato seeds before sowing

Caring for tomatoes in the greenhouse begins with the seed treatment period so that the crop can withstand viral diseases. For this, treatment with potassium permanganate is used, which is performed before germination and includes the following steps:

• preparation of a special solution - 1 g of the product is taken in a glass of water;
• a gauze bag is taken, seeds are laid there, dipped into the solution;
• after 20 minutes, the seeds are washed with clean running water.

Such treatment helps the rapid simultaneous emergence of seeds, strong growth of bushes. After processing with potassium permanganate, it is useful to saturate the seeds with useful substances, which is carried out according to the following technology:

• prepare a solution of 1 liter of warm water with 1 tablespoon of fertilizer (ash, nitrophoska, sodium humate);
• a container is taken, a bag of seeds is laid there for 12 hours at a temperature of at least 25 degrees;
• after taking out, the dishes are taken with clean water, the bag is put there for a day.

Such care is useful for undersized varieties, together with hardening, when the bag is placed on a refrigerator shelf for 2 days at a temperature of at least 1 degree. During the stay, the seeds must be constantly sprayed with water so that the bag does not dry out, but plant it immediately after hardening. Soaking and hardening is not necessary for hybrid and tall-stemmed seeds.

Compliance with temperature conditions

Caring for tomatoes in a greenhouse involves careful monitoring of the temperature at all stages:

• when sowing, the seeds are watered with a warm (up to 40 degrees) solution of sodium humate;
• when germinating seeds, the surrounding air must be heated to 23 degrees;
• the room for holding seedlings before disembarkation should have a daytime temperature of up to 17 degrees, and a nighttime temperature of up to 14;
• when the outside temperature reaches 12 degrees during the day, the seedlings are taken out to the veranda for hardening.

Watering tomatoes in a greenhouse

• At all stages of caring for tomatoes, except for planting seeds, they need watering:
• seedlings are watered three times during the entire growth period - after germination, after 2 weeks and a couple of hours before transplanting;
• 10 days after planting the seedlings, it is watered;
• watering should be carried out after pollination with pollen and before the start of active flowering at the rate of 5 liters per square meter;
• when flowers are formed, irrigation and the amount of water increases by 300%;
• competent watering of a polycarbonate greenhouse is carried out in the morning to prevent the creation of excessive moisture, and the water itself is poured under the root so that the leaves do not get wet.

Top dressing of tomatoes in the greenhouse

While caring for tomatoes in the greenhouse, they need to be fed:

• at the stage of sowing seeds;
• 2 weeks after the pick;
• 2 weeks after transplant;
• 3 weeks after planting the bushes;
• then after 3 and 2 weeks.

Formation of tomatoes in the greenhouse

Due to the fact that the summer is short, all tomato ovaries will not have time to form fruits, so you need to limit them. For this they carry out pinching and edging. The first procedure involves the removal of secondary shoots between the sinuses, and the second involves pinching the tops to stop upward growth and prevent the creation of new shoots. Each of the care processes has its own nuances.

How to care for tomatoes in a greenhouse

To know all the nuances of how to care for tomatoes in a greenhouse, you need to refer to the advice of experienced gardeners. They recommend caring for seedlings and bushes:

• seeds are planted without watering in a glass or plastic box, and the location is chosen warm and well-lit;
• seedlings should gain strength, and not grow upward, therefore, the temperature regime is observed for it;
• seedlings dive and feed;
• the distance between the bushes is made sufficient so that growth is carried out without problems;
• after disembarking in a greenhouse, the bushes are gartered, fed and watered.

How often should tomatoes be watered in the greenhouse

When organizing tomato care, many people ask the question of how to water tomatoes in a greenhouse and how often to do it. Gardeners recommend, after planting and flowering, watering the bushes every 6 days with a moderate amount of moisture. The water cannot be cold, it must be poured gently under the root so that the soil does not erode, and the leaves with fruits do not deteriorate. To avoid the greenhouse effect, the greenhouse must be optimally ventilated. With active ripening of the fruits, the bushes are watered twice or three times a week.

How to feed tomatoes in a greenhouse

The introduction of useful fertilizers is otherwise called fertilizing and is done so that the plants grow strong, are resistant to disease, and the fruits ripen on time and in the right amount. It is better to combine top dressing with watering and carry out three times - after 3 weeks from the moment the bushes were planted, then after the same time and the last time - after 2 weeks. For care, use organic fertilizers or their mineral types.

Organic fertilizers

How to fertilize tomatoes in a greenhouse? Gardeners recommend using organic folk remedies:

• mullein;
• means Fertility;
• peat, chicken droppings;
• infusion of green slurry;
• humus, wood ash.

Mineral fertilizers for tomatoes in the greenhouse

Mineral fertilizers for feeding tomatoes in a greenhouse include:

• nitroammophoska;
• superphosphate;
• ammonium nitrate;
• potassium sulfate;
• boric acid - it is sprayed before planting;
• urea.

Grassing tomatoes in the greenhouse

Caring for tomatoes in the greenhouse includes pinching - the removal of secondary shoots from the sinuses, necessary to prevent the formation of new ovaries and the formation of fruits from existing ones. Its correct implementation implies the removal of stepsons, which are considered to be everything except the main stem. The first time pinching is carried out 2 weeks after the seedlings emerge, then every 10 days. To prevent a new one from growing in place of the broken stem, you need to leave a couple of centimeters of the old one. A properly processed stem has no more than 4 flower clusters.

How to dive tomatoes correctly

Transplanting each tomato bush from a 100 ml container into a separate half-liter pot is called picking. It is carried out 10 days after the start of germination, so as not to damage the small root. A competent transplant means watering in 2 hours, taking out seedlings and selecting a large pot, watering again. The second method of picking is transshipment, when a few days before transplanting, the bush is no longer watered, due to which the earth dries up and freely gets out of the pot. After transshipment, the plant must be watered moderately so that it takes root better.

Video: caring for tomatoes in a greenhouse

Tomatoes are a demanding culture and it takes a lot of effort to provide them with decent conditions. Every gardener knows that the key to a large and healthy harvest is proper tomato care in your polycarbonate greenhouse. Following the recommendations will help everyone in achieving their cherished goal. We also recommend that you watch the video at the end of this article "How to prevent tomato diseases in the greenhouse"

To grow tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse, every step is important. Starting from germination of seeds, ending with harvesting. In order to choose the right care, use the advice of experienced gardeners.

Healthy seeds

Use healthy seeds for growing. If you do not know the history of the seeds obtained, process them. Subsequently, this will simplify the care of the seedlings and prevent a lot of diseases. Processing can be carried out in several stages:

• warming up the seeds;
• chemical treatment;
• soaking in water;
• hardening of seeds.

To obtain disinfected and high-quality seeds, they must be warmed up at a temperature of 50-60 ° C for at least 3 hours.

Important! Do not raise the temperature, fried seeds will never sprout.

Seedling

Do not feed seedlings before transplanting to a polycarbonate greenhouse. Caring for young tomatoes is to maintain the temperature and airing. Watering is carried out 4-5 times during the entire growth period.

Move only mature seedlings to the greenhouse. You can plant tomatoes that have reached 20-30 cm, with 9-10 full sheets.

Greenhouse conditions

Adhere to the temperature regime: during the day 25-28 ° С, and at night not lower than 15 ° С. Soil temperature is also important. It should not fall below 17-18 ° C. Humidity of air and soil in the greenhouse is not higher than 65%. Timely airing is also important. In good weather, opening the greenhouse is allowed: this will get rid of dampness and prevent a lot of diseases.

Perform root watering of tomatoes. So there will be no high humidity in the greenhouse. It is best to use a drip irrigation system.

Bush formation