Cucumbers in a greenhouse. Strict rules - a decent harvest: the nuances of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse gives a better result than outdoors. Indoors there are all the conditions necessary for this: high humidity, optimal temperature, the possibility of forming.

One of the important questions for the gardener is the choice of the greenhouse and its location. The greenhouse is chosen so that it is roomy in size and provides vegetables for the whole family. The optimal ratio of volume to area is 2: 1. The height in the greenhouse should be on average 2 meters (more towards the center, less on the sides). On the ridge, the average height is 2.5 meters.

A lower height is undesirable, since cucumber lashes grow more up to 3-3.5 meters per season. And it is impractical to do above, since the air will warm up more slowly. The greenhouse must have a ventilation system. Ideally, it should be automatic.

The greenhouse is located on a flat surface or with a slight slope to the south. The same is the direction of the greenhouse: from north to south, for better illumination of the plants. A container is placed in the greenhouse in order to water the cucumbers with only warm water.

Selection of varieties for indoor

Self-pollinated or parthenocapic cucumber varieties are suitable for indoor use. Both do not need bees. Plants set fruit in greenhouses without external interference. But the process of ovary formation itself occurs in different ways.

Self-pollinating cucumbers are cucumbers in which pollination occurs as a result of the transfer of pollen from the stamens to the pistil within one flower. In this case, the plant has no female and male flowers, respectively, there are no barren flowers.

Parthenocapes are translated as "virgin", that is, the cucumber is tied without pollination. In adulthood, parthenocapic fruits are always distinguished by their appearance. They have practically no seeds. And if they are, then they are very tiny, in their infancy.

Among the self-pollinated there are varieties and hybrids. The variety differs from the hybrid in that it is a fairly stable form that transfers its basic qualities through seeds. If you buy a variety of any cucumber once, then you can plant it from year to year, collecting seeds yourself. Its varietal characteristics will remain intact.

Currently, hybrids are more common; they are designated in names as F1. Such cucumbers do not transmit their qualities through seeds, so gardeners have to buy them every year. If this is not done, then splitting occurs in the second generation, and it is not known which particular signs will appear as a result.

Consider several popular varieties and hybrids for greenhouses and greenhouses:

• Adam F1. Dutch self-pollinated high-yielding hybrid. It is appreciated for the fact that it sets fruits very early. In just a month and a half, you can start harvesting. The second undoubted advantage is the extended period of fruiting. The cucumbers are arranged 5-7 together. With insufficient care, 2-4 fruits are tied in the knot. Cucumbers grow not only beautiful in appearance: dark, small, with small thorns. They are delicious both prepared and fresh.

• Sonny F1. A very popular parthenocapic hybrid. He is loved for his early maturity, the first fruits appear already on the 40th day. The bouquet arrangement of the ovaries is also appreciated. Cucumbers of this hybrid are gherkin type, cylindrical in shape. They do not grow large, growth stops at 14-16 cm. The fruits of this variety are tasty and productive.

• Everyone is the envy of F1. Despite the fact that this hybrid appeared relatively recently, it has already become popular among gardeners because of its super-yield and bunchy arrangement of fruits. The scourge of the variety is powerful. They develop up to frost and give an excellent yield on lateral shoots. Thin skin makes it possible to use these fruits both fresh and salted.

• Well-fed dad F1. One of the salad types for indoor use. Long, even, cylindrical fruits suitable for salad and fresh consumption. This variety is not suitable for whole-fruit canning, but when preparing lecho and other blanks, where cut fruits are needed, it is just right. Just like the previous ones, a variety with a bundle arrangement of ovaries, early maturing and resistant to diseases.

• Ecole F1. One of the new, very successful parthenocapic hybrids. This cucumber is suitable for those who canned pickles (greens 3-6 cm). That is why it can be plucked within 35-38 days after the first shoots appear. Ekol's Zelentsy are even, cylindrical, and grow in bunches. They are harvested every day so that they don't overgrow.

• Chinese cold-resistant F1. From the popular series of long and sweet cucumbers. It is suitable for growing in greenhouses where it is easier to tie. His whips are powerful, growing rapidly. The fruits themselves reach half a meter in length. Smooth and delicious cucumbers can be used in salad or cut slices for the winter.

The inscriptions on the cucumber bags "Partenocapicheskie (self-pollinated)" are incorrect. A variety or hybrid can be either this or the other. Most often, we are talking about parthenocapics.

Soil preparation

The preparatory process for planting begins with the soil. If you will be growing cucumbers through seedlings, then first you need to prepare or buy a special mixture in which you will plant seeds.

Cucumbers are very fond of loose and fertile soil, which means that the same is needed for sowing seeds. The soil should be not only light, but also moisture-retaining, which is very important for cucumbers who like to “drink”. That is why it is better to exclude peat from the composition or use it in small quantities. Store soil, which most often has a lot of peat in its composition, begins to dry quickly at home.

Watch out for acidity, it is peat that has an acidic reaction. In order for the cucumbers to develop normally, the pH level should be approximately 6.5-7.

The composition of the substrate for cucumber seedlings:

• sod land - 3 parts;
• humus or fully matured compost - 2 parts;
• sand - 1 part.

This mixture must be sieved so that there are no large parts. The mixture can be calcined in the oven for 10-20 minutes or frozen. It is best to prepare the mixture in advance in the fall and put it in a bag. Place the bag on the balcony to kill pathogenic microbes. Before sowing, add a liter of vermiculite for looseness, a glass of ash and 2 tablespoons of superphosphate to the bucket of the mixture.

Properly preparing seeds for sowing

Previously, before germination, gardeners performed a procedure such as heating the seeds. This is a long-term heating of dry seeds by heating devices at a temperature of 30-35 degrees.

Such events have a positive effect on increasing the formation of female flowers in all pumpkin.

When preparing self-pollinated and parthenocapic hybrids for sowing, the seeds do not need to be warmed up, since they have no problems with the formation of barren flowers.

Nowadays, seeds are often sold that have already been processed with thiram. The information is on the packaging. At the same time, the seeds are painted in a poisonous green color as a warning about the toxicity of the applied substance. Thiram is a fungicide that is used against a variety of diseases. Such seeds are not soaked or germinated.

If you have ordinary seeds, then they need to be treated with some kind of fungicide or a saturated solution of potassium permanganate. When there are many varieties, you need to put them in gauze bags and place them in the prepared solution for 15-20 minutes.

After that, you need to rinse the seeds and start germination. Germination does not affect yield, but it avoids planting empty seeds.

Before germination, the seeds should be placed for several hours or overnight in a small amount of water to swell. The water should cover the seeds a bit so that they don't "suffocate". There is no need to harden cucumbers because they lack the cold-resistance gene.

The advantages of the seedling method:

• allows you to get the result earlier than when sowing with seeds;
• the plant will grow up and get stronger in a comfortable environment;
• sorting is possible: you can see which plants develop better and which ones are worse;
• some seeds do not germinate immediately or freeze during the growth of the seedlings.

Plants of the same height will be easier to care for. The rest can be planted in a corner so that similar plants grow in one place. Such measures will allow you to get an early and healthy harvest.

Growing seedlings

In order for the cultivation of seedlings to become an advantage, you need to try to do it right. Cucumbers ready for planting should not be overgrown, strong, without signs of disease. The ideal option is 3-4 sheets.

For sowing, separate cups are taken immediately so that the root system is formed correctly. If this is not possible, then seeds are planted in the baths at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. The seeds must be properly prepared and germinated. The sprouts are small, the so-called "beaks", so as not to break.

Before planting, the hole in which the seed is placed is spilled with hot water with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Sprinkle the cucumber seed on top with loose earth with a layer of 2 cm.

If possible, cover the container with cucumbers with a damp cloth or plastic bag for 1-3 days until the seedlings appear.

Soil preparation in the greenhouse

Cucumbers are very fond of loose and fertile soil. These are fertile loams. Clay is too heavy for them, it lacks air permeability. The sand is loose, but it does not hold water, and cucumbers will not grow without it. In extreme cases, sandy loam is suitable, in which you can add a little heavy clay soil to balance the composition.

In the greenhouse, you need to prepare the soil in advance. You can plant green manure immediately after harvesting vegetables, and dig up with them before frost. The best option would be mustard leaf. It disinfects the soil and enriches it with valuable trace elements.

With the onset of winter, you need to throw snow into the greenhouse so that moisture saturates the soil in spring. After all the snow has melted, the earth is dug up in the greenhouse. Wells before planting seedlings must be prepared in advance. The ideal option is warm ridges, because cucumber is a very thermophilic culture.

They can be made both in autumn and spring. If this is not possible, then humus or compost mixed with ash and double superphosphate is placed in the prepared furrows or holes: half a glass of superphosphate and a liter of ash per bucket. Then sprinkle on 10-20 cm with loose soil.

If you change the soil in the greenhouse in the fall or spring, then you should take into account that you need to take the soil from those areas where vegetables were grown the day before that do not have common diseases with cucumbers: cabbage, onions, carrots, peppers or potatoes.

Transplanting

Seedlings are planted in the ground when the soil temperature reaches 15 ° C. This is a very important point. The air temperature in the greenhouse is important, but of secondary importance. Although any shelter for growing cucumbers should be equipped with a thermometer.

Cucumbers love warmth, especially the temperature of the soil. For objectivity, you need to take measurements in the morning. Experienced gardeners cover the place where the temperature will be measured with a board or plywood so that the place does not warm up by the sun.

A thermometer is placed under the shelter to a depth of about 20 cm and left for 15-30 minutes. So you get a fairly objective result. In order for the soil to warm up faster, you can cover it with plastic wrap, and also make a warm ridge.

But it starts working only at a certain temperature, so you first need to spill it with hot water, and then cover it with a film. To activate biofuels on cold days, you will have to do this several times before the start of the season.

We plant seedlings like this. At the beginning, we make a depression in the hole already filled with fertilizers for the size of the cucumber root system. We leave the distance between future plants about 40-60 cm. Then you need to shed it with warm water with the addition of a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.

Seedlings must be deepened to the cotyledon leaves or the first present. The soil around is compacted a little, and around you can sprinkle with dry earth.

You can additionally mulch the ridges with cucumbers to keep the soil warm.

Optimal conditions for the growth of cucumbers

Cucumbers and tomatoes are planted separately for a reason. Although some people manage to get good results by growing them together. Cucumbers need special conditions for growth and a good harvest: light, heat, humidity, watering, and others. Growing conditions for cucumbers are almost the same as for all pumpkin seeds.

Watering

Cucumber is a crop very responsive to watering. It must be regular, otherwise the harvest will not be good. In dry years, it may not exist at all, since water is instantly absorbed by the soil. Watering in a greenhouse or greenhouse is necessary often, leaves should not be allowed to wilt.

This feature is associated with the structure of the cucumber root system. It is located close to the soil surface, so the plant does not have the ability to take water from the depth, as, for example, tomatoes do it. The condition of the plant depends on how often you water it. In hot weather, when fruits are forming, this should be done every day.

Watering by sprinkling is recommended for cucumbers. With this method, water is poured out in small drops, partially evaporating. This increases the humidity in the greenhouse, which is very important for the cucumber. The soil is gradually saturated with water, which allows the roots to better absorb moisture.

Water consumption per 1 m2 is approximately equal to 15-25 liters per day or every other day, depending on the weather. With the formation of fruits, the water consumption increases and is 20-30 liters.

Do not pour cold water on cucumbers. They used to say that the fruit becomes bitter from this. Now the fruits are genetically sweet, but cold water is undesirable for irrigation because it increases the likelihood of plant diseases.

Top dressing

We must not forget about feeding. The growth of cucumbers is rapid, the yields of modern hybrids are very high. For the plant to be able to "feed" them, it is necessary to apply fertilizers 1-2 times a month, literally from the first days.

Fertilizers are organic and mineral. Organic is a natural fertilizer. These include manure, green grass fertilizer, ash, chicken droppings. When growing seedlings from the listed fertilizers, only ash is used when preparing a substrate for sowing seeds.

Before planting in the ground, seedlings are fed 1-2 times with mineral fertilizers. The advantage is given to nitrogen or complex with a predominance of nitrogen, because first the plant must build up green mass and get stronger.

After planting in the ground, the cucumbers are not fed for 2 weeks until the plant finally takes root. In addition, there is usually enough food in the holes. After that, you need to start "feeding" green fertilizer, a solution of mullein, chicken droppings and ash. Potash fertilizers are added from the beginning of flowering.

Light mode

The time of entry into fruiting, as well as the yield of cucumbers, depends on the intensity of light and the length of daylight hours. The second more affects the growth of plants. Cucumbers are plants with a short daylight hours, so they need 10-12 hours a day to fully develop. During the period of growing seedlings, this is equally important. If there is not enough light, then create conditions for a 10-hour daylight hours using artificial lighting.

Temperature

Cucumber is a very thermophilic culture. If it's cold outside, you can't expect good harvests. In addition, plants will be weakened, which will increase the incidence of diseases. The greenhouse should be kept at an average temperature of 17 ° C. But at first after sowing, the temperature should be 25-28 degrees.

This is why cucumbers are best grown at home first. Severe cold snaps negatively affect growth. But too high temperatures are harmful to a cucumber.

If on hot days the temperature in the greenhouse is above 30C, then you need to ventilate and spray the plant to reduce the temperature.

Humidity

Cucumber has an increased need for air humidity. For cucumbers, this rate is 85-95%. Compared to peppers, the difference is very big. Peppers have a moisture requirement of 60-65%. At low humidity, the process of pollination and fruit setting is significantly reduced.

Of the greenhouse crops, cucumber is perhaps the most moisture-demanding crop.

Airing

At first, when the cucumber seedlings are still small, you need to ventilate the rooms where they grow very carefully. Cucumbers do not tolerate drafts at all. And in the greenhouse it is imperative to ventilate, especially when the thermometer rises above 30C.

The vents are opened only on one side so that there are no drafts.

Bush formation

In order for the cucumbers to give a bountiful harvest and bear fruit for a long time, you need to properly form the plant. There are a lot of opinions on this, but the overwhelming majority believe that formation is needed.

Topping

Pinch the cucumber lashes as follows:

• the first 40-50 cm - "blind" the shoots completely;
• the next 40-50 cm is pinched over the first sheet;
• the next 40-50 cm above the second;
• then 40-50 cm above the third;
• etc.

Some gardeners cut off the mustache to save energy. For the same purpose, not all ovaries are left, some are removed. If it is noticed that with bundle formation of fruits, some do not have enough nutrition and they begin to dry, then one fruit is left in the sinuses. Watering and feeding in this case is increased.

It turns out such a "Christmas tree" on the contrary. At the end of growth, under the roof of the plant, the fruit is already tied freely. Some pinch the whip under the roof so that it does not waste energy on growth. All potential is spent on fruit formation.

It is noticed that without pinching, the yield is significantly reduced.

Stepping

Pickling on cucumbers is appropriate only when the stepsons are removed at the beginning of growth, half a meter above the soil surface. It is not necessary to do this above, since many large ovaries are located precisely on the lateral shoots. The meaning of pinching is that the forces of the plant are released for further growth and development.

For this procedure, carefully fold the leaf and remove the shoot with a cloth or knives. In the future, the leaves at the bottom of the lash dry up and the main stem is bare. There are many root rudiments on it. If you lay the stem in a ring, then very quickly roots will begin to grow in this place and the cucumber will have additional nutrition.

Tying

Cucumbers are tied up in a greenhouse for the following reasons:

• plants in this position are better illuminated by the sun;
• lashes are ventilated and cucumbers get sick less;
• it is easier to care for them;
• plants are not intertwined;
• almost 100% of flowers and ovaries are preserved;
• watering and loosening are simplified;
• good visibility when picking fruits.

You need to start tying the plant at the age of one month, when its growth reaches 30-40 cm. There are several types of materials from which ropes for cucumbers are prepared. Everyone chooses the best option for himself. For some it is rags, for some it is nylon. Someone stops at synthetic twines, which are sold in hardware stores.

The length of one twine is 2-2.5 meters. One end is fixed to the ceiling, and the other should go down freely. The lower end is neatly attached between the lower leaves. As it grows, the lash is wrapped clockwise around the twine.

Harvesting

Oddly enough, the regularity of the harvest affects the harvest itself. If the cucumbers are not picked on time, then they grow and develop further. The plant spends nutrients on them. Especially many microelements are used for seed formation.

Therefore, the greens are collected when they reach a size of 10-15 cm. They are cut off carefully, holding the whip with one hand so as not to damage it.

During the period when the plants begin to bear fruit in large quantities, cucumbers are harvested every 1-2 days, depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe greenhouse.

All sick, dry and crooked fruits are removed without waiting for them to grow, since they deplete the plant.

Diseases and pests

Cucumbers need a humid and warm microclimate to grow. But it is such an environment that promotes the multiplication of pathogenic bacteria and microorganisms. And this can cause a number of diseases.

For prevention, the greenhouse is thoroughly washed in the spring using various non-aggressive detergents. For example, you can use laundry soap. For additional disinfection in a greenhouse or greenhouse, use a sulfur stick.

She successfully fights fungal diseases and mold.

Before using in the greenhouse, not only the vents and doors are carefully closed, but also the cracks. Smoke from a sulfuric gem can penetrate even where other means cannot penetrate. And in order not to bring disease along with the soil, it is taken for the greenhouse only where pumpkin crops have not grown for 3-4 years. Additionally, you can spill the soil with a weak solution of copper sulfate.

Cucumbers are not a very demanding crop. They grow well indoors, subject to the basic rules of planting, watering, feeding. With good care in summer cottages, you can collect from 5 or more kilograms of cucumbers per square meter. Considering that most of the fruits are plucked in the gherkin state, this is not a bad result.

In order to carry out the cultivation of cucumbers in greenhouses, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work, on which the quality of the crop will depend.

The greenhouse is not a very complicated structure for planting cucumbers. It differs from the greenhouse in its height.
Such parameters of the greenhouse make it possible to save on heating and lighting.
What a greenhouse can be made of:

• For this design, there are no restrictions on the use of materials. The frame, just like that of a greenhouse, can be wooden or metal.
  The coating is polyethylene film, glass or polycarbonate.
• The cheapest greenhouse with a wooden frame and a film coating is considered the cheapest. The price for polycarbonate and a metal frame is slightly higher, but if the greenhouse is planned to be used for many years, then the costs of manufacturing the structure will pay off.

Council. It is best to use cellular polycarbonate for a greenhouse, which differs in technical performance.

The photo shows examples of the construction of a greenhouse. Also on our resource you can learn about the Slava greenhouse, which is great for growing vegetables.

Where to start growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

Before growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, you must:

• Think over the design of the greenhouse and choose materials and equipment for it.
• Choose the right variety of cucumbers.
• Prepare the ground.

All these actions are done by hand without much difficulty.

Which greenhouse is suitable for growing cucumbers and its equipment

Initially, before growing green vegetables in greenhouses, you need to clearly think over the design and its shape.
She may be:

• Square.
• Rectangular.
• The height of the structure must be below average human height. Otherwise, the greenhouse will already be a greenhouse.

Council. It is necessary to choose the optimal height of the greenhouse, which will allow for the care of the plants.

In this case, the roof of the structure can be:

• Shed.
• Gable.
• Broken.

Council. It will be mandatory to make a window in the design. It will allow high-quality ventilation of the greenhouse and thereby create a normal microclimate inside.

So:

• Very often, the greenhouses that are used for growing cucumbers have openable roofs. That is, the roof itself is attached to special hinges.
• The frame of this design can be metal or wood.

Council. Since the greenhouse is not too large in height, it is possible to use thick fittings rather than shaped pipes for its manufacture on a metal frame.

• Basically, greenhouses are used in warmer seasons and do not require special heating, since they are covered with a simple plastic wrap.
• It is also worth considering that the foundation can be omitted from the reinforcement structure. The rods are inserted into the ground to a certain depth.

Council. It is possible to place bricks or their fragments in the holes for mounting reinforcement. After the reinforcement is already inserted, everything is covered with soil and rammed tightly.

• Similar actions are performed for a greenhouse with a wooden frame and a film covering. With a different type of construction, everything is different.
• The frame is metal pipes that are welded together or wooden strips, which are quite large.
• Cellular polycarbonate or dense polyethylene film can be used as a coating. This type of construction is more massive and heavy and for this reason it will be necessary to make a base for it.

Council. On any soil, a pile foundation is suitable, which is not a way to respond to changes in the composition of the soil and its density, which means that the greenhouse will last a longer period of time.

• A greenhouse covered with polycarbonate can be used all year round. Only in this case it is worth initially considering the heating system of the structure in cold weather.
• With regard to lighting, small fluorescent lamps are selected. This is due to the fact that the height of the greenhouse is small and direct light exposure to the seedlings can adversely affect the growth and development of culture (deciduous burns will appear).

It is also worth considering the irrigation system in the greenhouse.
At the moment it can be:

• Manual.
• Mechanical.
• Automatic.

So:

• In manual watering, all actions are performed independently, using buckets or other containers for water collection.
• Mechanical irrigation differs from the previous one in that it uses hoses that are connected to the main source of water supply and are evenly spread around the entire perimeter of the structure. You can simply rearrange the hose by holding it with your hands.
• Automatic irrigation is the most common and economical type of irrigation. This is due to the fact that the system, when connected, is programmed for a certain irrigation time and for the type of irrigation itself.
  Thus, a person does not spend any time on such a process.

Council. To connect such an irrigation system, you need to seek help from a specialist in this field. There is a special instruction for work. It is precisely focusing on her recommendations that you can connect watering.

Output!
We can say that before growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, it is necessary to provide it with lighting and irrigation systems. In the case of growing crops in winter, a heating system is thought out.

Choosing a variety of cucumbers for greenhouse designs

High-quality breeding of cucumbers in a greenhouse can only depend on a properly selected crop variety.
At the moment, there are several types of cucumbers that are very popular with experienced gardeners, these are:

• Buyan.
• Twixie.
• Marinda.
• Halley.
• Murovei.
• Bidrett.
• Murashko.

Specifications:

• All these seeds are F1 hybrid varieties.
• They are distinguished by high productivity and unpretentiousness.
• They are free to tolerate low temperatures and low illumination of the structure.

Council. For planting cucumbers in a greenhouse in the warm season, you can use any varieties. In order for the cultivation of cucumber in greenhouses to be in the cold season, it is necessary to give preference only to frost-resistant varieties and those that do not require special watering.

Where does the cultivation of cucumbers begin?

How are cucumbers grown in greenhouses? Gardeners can use ready-made seedlings that they purchase or grow them on their own.
For growing seedlings, you can use:

• Peat cups.
• Compost beds.
• Dung beds.

So:

• Everything is clear with the use of peat cups. Well-prepared soil is poured into them and seeds are planted in it. Here are the compost or manure beds you initially need to make.
• For this, long plastic or peat containers are taken. They are filled with soil, which is mixed with compost or manure.
  Such a soil is good because the seedlings in it will not need to be fertilized after the leaves appear. It is already rich in minerals.
• The seeds deepen into this type of soil at a certain distance from each other and are crushed by the soil.

Council. Don't deepen the seeds too much. 2-3 cm will be enough.

• Very often hot manure beds are used for growing cucumber seedlings. What it is? After the seeds are planted in a container, they are covered over a special dense film, the soil is preliminarily watered.
  Once every two to three days, the film is lifted and thus airing is performed.

Council. If the seedlings of cucumbers are needed very quickly, then this method is used to grow them.

Mandatory for the proper cultivation of seedlings will be:

• Irrigation.
• Lighting.
• Top dressing.
• Hardening.

More details:

• The latter is very necessary if the seedlings are grown in the cold season at home, and in early spring they will be transplanted into the greenhouse soil.
• It is performed no more often than after 3-4 days. Seedlings are taken out to the balcony or street for a few minutes. Typically 3-5 minutes will be sufficient.

Council. After hardening, you cannot immediately water the seedlings. Its root system must again adapt to room mode.

• Irrigation of cucumber seedlings occurs at least once every three days. Watering cans are used for this.
  If the seedlings are grown in a greenhouse or greenhouse and in warm weather, then an automatic irrigation system or simple hoses with droppers can be used for irrigation.

Home lighting is suitable for growing cucumber seedlings. If it is grown in a greenhouse or greenhouse in cold weather, then fluorescent lamps will be needed.

Soil preparation in the greenhouse for planting seedlings

It is worth considering that growing cucumbers in a greenhouse can only be carried out on well-prepared soil. It should be loose and slightly fluffy.
You need to moisten it in a few days for planting seedlings. As for fertilization of the soil, it will be required when the seedlings are accepted.

Council. How to find out that the seedlings have begun. This will be evidenced by new sets of leaves on the seedling pillar or the appearance of color.

Planting seedlings in greenhouse soil

There is nothing difficult in such actions and they are all easy to do on your own. To do this, you will need to initially make holes for cucumbers or rows.
This is done with a small spatula or hoe. It is necessary to plant cucumber seedlings very carefully so as not to damage the root system.

Council. For this reason, the seedlings of their capacity are taken with a lump of soil in which its root system is located.

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse should be well-irrigated. But, after transplanting seedlings, you do not need to water the soil immediately.
Irrigation is performed two days later or the next day. In the video, you can watch the planting of cucumber seedlings in various ways.

When growing cucumbers in greenhouses, many gardeners ask themselves questions: which greenhouse to prefer - purchased, or do it yourself, which is better - film, glass or polycarbonate, how to rationally use all the advantages of a greenhouse when planting vegetables? With proper care in the middle lane, a good harvest can be grown at any time of the year.

Benefits of greenhouse growing vegetables

Cucumbers are undoubtedly one of the most common and favorite vegetables for gardeners. Along with the cultivation of this crop in the open field, greenhouses are increasingly used. This is not surprising. Observance of correct agricultural technology gives a big plus to the greenhouse option for growing cucumbers in front of open ground.

Advantages of greenhouse cultivation:

• the yield from the same area is several times higher;
• the possibility of getting an early harvest;
• extension of the growth of this vegetable in the middle lane until the beginning of October;
• the use of varieties of cucumbers, zoned for the southern regions.

Applying the correct varieties of cucumbers and the technology of cultivating them in a greenhouse, special technical means to maintain optimal temperature and humidity, it is possible to grow this vegetable all year round in the middle zone.

If desired, growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, gardeners can receive crops for personal consumption, and engage in a fairly profitable home business.

Greenhouse preparation

Before planting seedlings of cucumbers or seeds, it is necessary to carry out work to prepare the greenhouse itself. They can be divided into autumn and spring periods.

Autumn after harvest

In the fall, when the harvest of cucumbers is harvested, the frame is examined and repaired, the damaged areas of the coating are changed. The condition of the film or glazed coating is monitored throughout the winter season. Wooden parts are treated with a 3% solution of copper sulfate (70 g per 10 liters of water). The metal parts of the frame are painted. Glasses are sprayed with formalin (2 g per 1 l of water), 1 l per m 2. If the operation is foreseen in the winter, the electric lighting fixtures and technical means for heating are checked and adjusted.

Garbage and remnants of old plants are removed from the ground, and the top layer (4–6 cm) of the soil is changed, because this is where pests and sources of diseases accumulate. Then the earth is disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate at the rate of 1 tbsp. l. 10 liters of water. Processing consumption - 10 liters per 20-25 m 2 of greenhouse area. Also, for disinfection of the soil, you can use a mixture of potassium permanganate and lime: 6 g of potassium permanganate per 15 liters of water and 20 g of lime per 6 liters of water. If it is impossible to prepare the greenhouse in the fall, disinfection is carried out in the spring - 1 tablet of Intra-vira and 2 tablets of Oxychom are dissolved in 10 liters of water. This amount is sufficient for 15–20 m 2.

Organic and mineral fertilizers are introduced: 20-25 kg of fresh manure, 30-40 g of phosphorus and potash fertilizers per square meter. m. In case of increased soil acidity, add 200-500 g of lime per 1 m 2. Then the earth is dug up to a depth of 30–35 cm.

In the spring before landing

In the spring, when the ground warms up enough, an additional layer of film is pulled over the greenhouse to avoid damaging the cucumber plantings by low night temperatures.

Form beds with a width of at least 1 m and a height of 25-30 cm, leaving a space for a passage between them 60-70 cm. In the absence of heating the greenhouse, before sowing seeds, fresh manure is laid on the beds, on it - a layer of fertile loose soil about 25 cm. all this ridge is watered abundantly and seeds are sown. Instead of manure, you can pour ready-made compost (sawdust, decomposed peat, rotted straw and grass, etc.) on the beds. Then the seeds are not sown, but ready-made seedlings are planted. If the formation of high ridges is not envisaged, and the plants will be grown directly in the soil, then in this case a simple - 80 g or double - 40 g of superphosphate per sq. m.

A prerequisite is the presence of a horizontal trellis made of hard wire, located at a height of 2 meters above the beds, to which cucumber lashes are tied. This prevents overheating of the bushes and the development of fungal diseases.

Planting cucumbers in the greenhouse

Cucumbers are planted in a greenhouse by seedling or by sowing seeds directly on the beds. The timing of planting and the technology of soil preparation in the greenhouse depend on the chosen method. The planting time is significantly influenced by the greenhouse cover material: film, glass or polycarbonate coating. You also need to take into account the methods of heating the greenhouse - with biofuel or a convector. In the latter case, cucumbers can be grown throughout the year.

General rules

When planting cucumbers in a greenhouse, you must be guided by the following:

• when planting, the seeds must be pre-checked for quality and germinated;
• seedling method is preferable to planting seeds in the ground. An exception is a polycarbonate greenhouse;
• seedlings should be 25 days old and have 3-4 true leaves;
• for 1 sq. m. no more than four plants are planted;
• the planted seedlings are formed vertically, tying them to the trellis;
• the earthen lump of the seedling should be 1–2 cm higher than the level of the garden;
• for better pollination, cucumbers of different varieties are planted nearby.

Seed planting

For sowing, large, full-weight seeds are selected and their quality is checked - they are immersed in a 5% salt solution for 20-30 minutes. Pop-ups are empty, they are removed. Before sowing, the seeds are soaked or germinated. Before soaking, the seeds are suspended in a cloth bag, preferably over the battery for a day. Soak for about 10-12 hours just before disembarking. Seeds are germinated by wrapping them in a damp cloth and placing them in a warm place for 20–25 hours, and low-quality seed is additionally rejected.

Seeds are planted in prepared holes for 3–3 seeds. The seeding depth depends on the composition of the soil: on loose soil - about 3 cm, on heavy less - 1–2 cm.

Seedling planting method

Using the seedling method of growing, you can accelerate the entry of cucumbers into fruiting by one and a half to two weeks than when planting with seeds.

It is best to plant seeds for seedlings in soft paper cups or peat pots. In this case, when planting in the ground, there will be no damage to the roots of plants. Land for seedlings can be purchased ready-made in a store or made homemade - from a mixture of 1 part of garden soil and 0.5 parts of sawdust and humus. Before planting seeds, soil in pots should be shed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The seeds are planted to a depth of 1–2 cm and covered with glass or polyethylene to create a microclimate. The temperature in the room during seed germination must be maintained within 22–28 o C, and after 5–7 days, when seedlings appear, it must be reduced to 18–20 degrees. In order to prevent stretching, it is necessary to install additional illumination of the seedlings.

When planting seedlings in a greenhouse, the soil temperature should be at least 16-18, and the air temperature - 20-22 degrees. If overgrown plants are planted, they are placed obliquely in the planting holes. Important: in the first days after planting, the seedlings are abundantly watered and shaded from the sun.

Landing dates

According to the ripening time, cucumbers are divided into early, mid-season and late varieties. Therefore, you can give the following general recommendations on the timing of sowing seeds for seedlings.

• Early varieties - from March 15 to April 20. They have the fastest ripening rates.
• Mid-season varieties - from early to mid-May.
• Late varieties - from the end of August. Hybrid varieties of cucumbers are planted. Their ripening period is 60 days, so the harvest can be harvested until November.

When growing cucumbers in a non-seedling way, the planting time is determined as the soil matures and the air temperature is stable. The earth should warm up to 16 degrees, and the air - up to 20 o C.

Planting schemes

In addition to soil and maintenance, the correct choice of planting scheme affects the successful cultivation and obtaining sustainable yields. The condition and development of cucumbers depends on this. In greenhouses, one- and two-line and checkerboard planting patterns should be used.

The most productive and large-leaved varieties of cucumbers are planted in one line (row). The beds are long and narrow. The disadvantage of this method is that there is no saving in plant growing area due to the wide aisles between the rows.

With a two-line scheme, cucumbers are arranged in two rows, one bush is opposite the other. This scheme is suitable for plants with medium-sized leaves.

In order to improve illumination, plants can be planted in a checkerboard pattern, while the parameters of the beds are similar to the two-line scheme. The bush planted in the second row "supports" the one planted in the first one by half the distance between the plants in the row. This scheme involves the cultivation of cucumbers with large large leaves and long fruits.

Table: intervals for planting cucumbers

Landing scheme	Distance, cm
	The width of the beds	Between bushes in a row	Between the rows	Width of tracks between ridges
One line	40–50	25–30	-	25–35
Two-line	80–100	35–40	45–60	40–50
Chess	80–90	35–40	45–55	from 40

Features of planting and caring for cucumbers in polycarbonate greenhouses: how to grow a rich harvest

Using greenhouses made of cellular polycarbonate, you can start growing cucumbers already in March. Heat loss in them is less than in film greenhouses and it is easier to create additional heating. The advantage is that in polycarbonate greenhouses, seeds can be sown directly on the beds with biofuel - this reduces the cost of preparing seedlings. And the plants themselves will be spared from temperature adaptation - in the process of growing they get used to low temperatures. Using seeds of early varieties, planting seeds in the ground begins in early March. After 21 days, the sprouted shoots are dived and planted in a permanent place of growth.

Video: highlights of planting cucumbers in a greenhouse

Watering

Cucumbers are a very moisture-loving crop. It is necessary to properly organize the process of watering plants in a greenhouse. When watering, it is important not to overdo it - excessive watering leads to diseases (decay) of plants.

After planting the plants before flowering, the cucumbers are watered moderately - 1 sq. m pour 4-5 liters of water. Such a watering rate will prevent the growth of leaf mass of plants and promote active formation of ovaries.

During the period of ovary formation, during the entire active fruiting and after harvesting, cucumbers require the greatest watering. Therefore, from the beginning of flowering to the end of the growing season, the irrigation rate is increased to 9–12 liters per 1 m 2.

Watering frequency depends on the condition of the ambient temperature. In hot weather, water it daily, in moderate heat or on cloudy days, 1-2 waterings per week are enough. During abundant fruiting, watered every other day.

Watering should be guided by the following rules:

• it is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil under the bushes: it should be moderately moist, but not waterlogged;
• when the leaves wither, the plants need to be watered urgently;
• at the beginning of fruiting, soil drying can be applied in order to accelerate the development of ovaries;
• no changes in soil moisture level should be allowed;
• it should be watered with water not lower than 18–20 o С;
• the most favorable time for watering is in the evening, after sunset;
• after watering, be sure to loosen the ground.

Advantages of drip irrigation in greenhouses

Various implements are used for irrigation: watering cans, buckets, hoses, etc. There are also automatic irrigation systems:

• sprinkling;
• aerosol autowatering;
• drip irrigation system.

The drip irrigation system is the most convenient and rational for irrigating cucumbers in a greenhouse. Let's consider the advantages of this method:

• water flows directly under the root of each plant;
• automation of the process, which allows gardeners to visit their garden and summer cottages less often;
• there is no danger of soil erosion;
• precise dosage of feed, and therefore water saving;
• simultaneously with watering, you can feed the plants;
• ease of maintenance;
• reduction in physical costs;
• ultimately - increased productivity.

The main disadvantage of drip irrigation is the high price of standard irrigation equipment offered by manufacturers. But gardeners have come up with many homemade drip irrigation devices. And anyone who knows how to hold a tool in their hands will be able to build such a system in their greenhouse.

Top dressing

During the entire growing season, cucumbers need to be fed. In different cultivation cycles, different types and rates of organic and mineral fertilizers are used. Plants are fed at least four times per season.

Table: feeding cucumbers during the season

The fertilizer rates indicated in the table are applied at the rate of 0.5 liters per plant.

Wood ash is a very valuable food for cucumbers. It is diluted in a ratio of 100 g per 10 l of water and used at any time of plant cultivation with a break of 10 days.

Video: how to properly feed cucumbers

Cucumber bush formation

The formation of cucumbers is the most important agrotechnical technique for growing them. This helps to improve the quality of fruits, increase yields, and it is much easier to take care of plants - there will be no continuous thickets in the greenhouse. In addition, plants are less susceptible to disease and invasion of harmful insects. The formation of bushes consists of the following activities:

• choosing the direction of growth of the bush;
• garters for trellises;
• trimming the plant.

It should be formed into one stem, since the fruits are tied precisely on the central stem. For this, the following work is carried out:

• 3-5 days after planting seedlings, the plant is tied up with a cord to a wire stretched horizontally;
• when the bush reaches 6 leaves, the top is pinched off;
• from the bottom, remove all leaves and shoots up to 5 leaves. This protects the plant from diseases and ventilates the soil well;
• carry out pinching: one ovary is left in each bosom and pinch it after the third leaf;
• on the next shoot, 2 ovaries are left, and cut off after 4 leaves;
• when the main shoot reaches the wire, it is also pinched.

Important: to increase the yield, it is necessary to systematically remove the male flowers on the plant.

If these actions are performed correctly, the cucumber bush will bear fruit for a long time.

Video: how to form a cucumber bush correctly

Plant problems

Growing cucumbers, many gardeners are faced with various troubles: flowers fall, leaves and ovaries turn yellow, plant growth stops. This can be caused by many factors.

1. Poor quality seeds. You should always check the seeds in a 5% salt solution - floating seeds are not suitable for sowing, they must be thrown out. You can also test the seeds for germination by wrapping them in a damp cloth - if more than 60% do not germinate, the seed is discarded.
2. Lack of nutrition. In this case, the leaves turn yellow and dry, and the ovaries fall off or do not grow. The plant stops growing. It is necessary to apply a complete mineral fertilizer to stimulate growth.
3. Waterlogged soil. The growth of plants slows down, they look rickety, undersized, oxygen does not get to the roots well. It is necessary to give air to the root system, that is, to "dry" the soil: to loosen and mulch - add dry earth, peat.
4. Low night air temperatures. Symptoms are the same as with excessive soil moisture. It is necessary to control and maintain the optimum (22–26 o C) air temperature in the greenhouse.
5. Plants are not pollinated. In the absence of pollinating insects, pollination is carried out manually. One male flower pollinates no more than 5 female flowers.
6. Plant disease or pest damage. The leaves dry and curl up, a brown or yellow spot appears on their surface, the fruits take on an ugly shape. It is necessary to carry out regular measures to protect plants from pests and diseases.

Pest and disease control

Although in greenhouses, compared to growing in open areas, cucumbers are more protected from diseases and pest infestations, preventive measures should be taken. And in the event of diseases or damage to plants by pests, take the necessary measures to save the plants.

Table: control of diseases and pests

Root rot of cucumbers - dried stems and roots Anthracnose cucumbers - brown spots on the leaves greenhouse whitefly leaves sugar traces on the leaves Melon aphids on cucumbers Cucumber bush affected by spider mites

Features of growing cucumbers in the regions

Using greenhouses, especially glazed and polycarbonate greenhouses, cucumbers can be grown in all parts of Russia. The difference will be in the time span of the periods of plant growth. If in the south they are harvesting, then in the middle lane cucumbers are just appearing, and in the northern regions and Eastern Siberia, flowering just ends. It goes without saying that when cultivating cucumbers, it is necessary to choose zoned varieties: those that are planted in the Kuban will not grow in Yakutia. Pollinated varieties will not give a crop where there are no pollinator insects - it is necessary to plant hybrids and parthenocarpic varieties of cucumbers.

More and more gardeners are coming to the decision to grow cucumbers in greenhouses. Currently, there are modern types of greenhouse coverings, a lot of auxiliary equipment that helps in the cultivation of vegetable crops. By applying advanced cucumber farming techniques in greenhouses, gardeners can always count on a good harvest.

Diseases and pests of cucumbers	Signs of damage	Prevention and control measures
Powdery mildew.	White bloom on the leaves.	Prevention: weed control; soil replacement when preparing the greenhouse for the season. leaf treatment with mullein (1/10 l of water); in 12 liters of hot water dissolve 250 g of onion husks and 2 g of potassium permanganate, insist for a day and a half, filter and process the leaves; 50 g of soap and soda per 10 liters of water.
Root rot	The stems at the roots become brown and dry. The leaves also become mottled and fall on the soil. Growth is delayed and the bush may die.	Prevention: do not pour cold water; cover plants on cold nights; Treatment: disinfection of stem roots and soil with a solution - 3 tsp. copper sulfate and 6 tbsp. l. dilute ash in 1 liter of water.
Anthracnose	Yellowish-brown formations on leaves and fruits.	Treatment with 1% Bordeaux liquid solution; wetting the damaged areas with a 0.5% solution of copper sulfate and sprinkling them with charcoal or lime.
Spider mite.	It sucks the juice from the leaves - flowers and ovaries fall off, the plant may die.	Mite control: treatment of plants with water with the addition of garlic.
Greenhouse whitefly.	It sucks juice from plants - white sugar traces remain.	Prevention: weed control; Glue traps: plywood sheets are painted in a light color and smeared with a sticky compound so that the insect cannot fly away. Treatment: washing the lower part of the damaged leaf with water.
Melon aphid.	Wrinkling and curling of leaves, flowers are affected.	Prevention: weed control. Treatment: insist 30 g of red pepper and 200 g of tobacco for a day dust in 10 liters of water (60 ° C). Add soap and 3 tablespoons of ash. Spray a week at 1–2 l per 1 m 2.

Cucumbers in a foil greenhouse: technology, conditions, care.

Illumination requirements for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

The yield of vegetables, including cucumber, depends on the intensity of photosynthesis, especially in the greenhouse. The main effect on photosynthesis is the illumination of plants. For the most optimal use of the illumination of the plants, it is necessary to correctly place the plants in it. To tie a cucumber, across the greenhouse, pull the trellis, that is, wire. Distance. between two trellises - 100 cm. The specified trellis can be used not only for cucumber, but also for tomato, pepper and eggplant.

Planting cucumbers in a greenhouse: diagram, distance, soil preparation.

Landing scheme Seedlings of hybrids Vyatsky, Molodets, Apollo , planted at the rate 2,7 plants per 1 m 2 Planting scheme 90 x 40 cm. Plants are planted strictly under a trellis in dug holes. Distance between plants 40cm. The hybrids Vyatsky, Molodets and Shik have strong shoot formation. They can be planted at the rate of 1.8 plants per 1 m 2. Instead of six plants, you can place four in the garden. Wells are watered with warm water before planting. Prepared seedlings are planted in holes and covered with soil. The root part of the seedlings is mulched with dry soil or peat. Plants are not watered after planting. There is enough moisture in the soil for 2-5 days, depending on the temperature. The first watering is carried out in 2-3 days in the root part with warm water (water temperature 25-30 ° C), flow rate 100-150 ml. per plant with the addition of humate.

Listen to the radio broadcast:

How to achieve a good harvest of cucumbers. (The main summer resident of the country Andrey Tumanov)

Optimum temperature for cucumbers in the greenhouse

Optimum temperature for cucumbers in the greenhouse when planting

The day before planting, the seedlings are treated with Epin for better adaptation from adverse conditions. The soil temperature on the day of planting should be at least 18 ° C. If the temperature of the soil in which the young

plants, for a long time it will be below 14-16 О С seedlings wither and may die. In the future, the surviving plants have a weak root system and will not be able to provide food for the formed ovaries. Many plants can pupate, a bunch of mainly female flowers forms at the point of growth, and the tip of a young plant stops growing.

Optimum temperature in the first week after landing

The optimum temperature in the first week after planting is 20-22 ° C. After a week, when new leaves have formed on the seedlings, and the growth of the root system has intensified, the temperature can be reduced to 18-20 ° C. Hybrids Vyatsky, Molodets, Shik, Charodey do not reduce activity growth when the temperature drops to 16 ° C.

Optimal for maximum yield cleaning temperature

From the moment they enter the harvesting phase, the response of plants to temperature changes. The optimum temperature for maximum yield shifts from higher temperatures to lower ones. This is due to the fact that at elevated temperatures, green plants grow so quickly that there is strong competition between them for the products of photosynthesis. The consequence of this is the uneven formation of fruits: after harvesting cucumbers from the lash, there is a long pause, which can negate the advantages of early harvesting. In addition, early aging of plants often occurs in such cases. Thus, in order to obtain early and high yields, a high temperature is recommended before harvesting, followed by a decrease. Cultivation in film shelters without heating in the North-East can begin from mid to late May.

Nutrition

Care after planting, within 10-12 days, consists in light watering in the root part. It is important to grow the root system during this time. Waterlogging can cause root death and decay. The root system grows well and develops in a loose, well-aerated soil. Increase watering with filling of the first zelents. Feeding the plants begins three weeks after planting.

Cucumber feeding table in the greenhouse for maximum yield

(consumption of mineral fertilizers in grams per 10 liters of water)

Name mineral fertilizers								A c d u c t
Ammonium nitrate
Potassium sulfate
Magnesium sulfate
Kristallin
Humate K or Na
Solution consumption for 1 plant per ml.

Formation (Correct) cucumbers in the greenhouse: schemes

The main task of the formation is to obtain the maximum yield by controlling the growth rates of the vegetative and generative spheres of the plant. Optimal formation allows you to redistribute food to the organs of the plant, rationally use the volume of the greenhouse, and create a more favorable regime of illumination and humidity.

Before starting the formation, the plant is twisted around the twine. First, the twine is tied with a free knot on a trellis wire, then its second end at a height of 20-30 cm from the soil surface is fixed with a free loop on the plant. Often, when tying, mistakes are made, which subsequently harm the plants. The main ones are: fastening plants to a tightly stretched twine, which, when the trellis wire vibrates, can damage the root system up to pulling it out of the soil; insufficient size of the loop when tying a plant - as the stem thickens, the twine will cut into it, which leads to a decrease in the supply of assimilation products to the root system and its weakening up to death.

In the first period after planting seedlings, it is necessary to form a root system and create conditions for vegetative growth. Therefore, when twisting in the lower 3 nodes, all ovaries and shoots are removed. Due to low temperatures, individual plants can “terminate” and stop growing. To create vegetative growth in such plants, the ovaries are removed from the leaf axils to the point of growth. In the lower tier, the shoots are pinched on 1 leaf and one fruit is left, in the nodes of the middle tier - 2 leaves, and in the upper tier 3 leaves. The top of the plant is carefully wrapped around the trellis-wire at a distance of 40 cm, lowered down and pinched at a distance of 15-20 cm from the trellis. Two shoots are lowered from the upper nodes of the main lash. (Fig. 2) When tying, it is necessary to place all vertices in one direction, and on a parallel trellis in the opposite direction.

Harvest.

The fruits reach harvest ripeness 12-15 days after flowering in the spring and after

7-10 days in summer. The fruits of cucumber hybrids Vyatsky, Molodets, Shik and Charodey can be removed at different stages of development. For canning as pickles 3-5 cm and as gherkins 5-7 cm. In the summer, with regular harvesting of fruits in the nodes of Apollo, Vyatsky hybrids, from 1 to 2 fruits are formed, sometimes three. In hybrids Good, Shik and Sorcerer, 2-3 fruits are tied in knots. Zelentsy are harvested 2-3 times a week, no more than 12 cm long, and no more than 5 cm in diameter. Overgrown fruits left on the plant prevent the development of new ovaries and reduce the yield. Especially if the fruits are pollinated and seeds are set in them.

Note: Notes on the last tip. 1. Thoroughly rinse and dry the shell so that later you do not have the disgusting smell of decomposition. 2. The method requires exceptional dexterity due to the fragility of the shell.