How to get large onions from sets. How to grow onions in the garden

Onions are no longer exotic at their summer cottage, on the contrary, it is strange when they are not. Despite its wide distribution and popularity, not all gardeners know how to grow it. This is a rather capricious culture and any deviation in agricultural technology leads to a deterioration in the quality of the crop. Excessively "evil" onions grow with a lack of moisture at the beginning of the growing season, a shallow head is formed with a thickened planting and at the wrong depth, non-compliance with crop rotation and violation of the rules of care leads to the development of diseases and affects keeping quality.

Often summer residents get such a harvest, half of which is not preserved until the middle of winter, and the other half is suitable only for borscht because of its pronounced pungency. What features need to be taken into account in order to plant onions correctly and avoid many problems?

Onion loves lighted areas and does not tolerate lowlands with heavy waterlogged soils. Cabbage, cucumber and nightshade are good predecessors for it. These crops do not have common pests and diseases with onions, and since their cultivation is accompanied by the introduction of high doses of organic and mineral fertilizers, the soil remains sufficiently nutritious.

Also, onions can go after zucchini and peas, but it is undesirable to occupy them with areas that were previously under carrots, since fresh organic matter is not introduced under this culture, and onions require fertile soil. Also, the site after it is released late, you may not have time to prepare it for a new planting. You can plant carrots after onions, joint planting and the close location of the beds are good (they scare away pests from each other).

The plant can be returned to its original place no earlier than after 3 years, and with high disease damage - only after 5 years. Planting onions on the head in the spring should be carried out in loose and moderately moist soil, therefore, in the fall, the site should be dug onto a shovel bayonet, and in the spring it should only be raked and leveled.

If necessary, compost or humus and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are introduced in the fall. Chalk or lime is added to neutralize the soil solution on acidic soils. It is recommended to occupy the areas where fresh manure was introduced with onions only for 2 years.

In poorly heated areas with heavy clay soil, wide ridges are cut in the fall, on which planting will be carried out.

When is onion planted?

The exact dates of disembarkation are determined by the prevailing weather conditions and ground temperature. Onions are cold-resistant crops, but when planted in cold soil, they will shoot, which will reduce the quality of the crop.

On the other hand, the procedure must be completed when the soil still has a supply of moisture, the needs of which are high for onions at the beginning of growth. And the relatively long growing season of this culture does not forgive delay.

Preparation of planting material

Planting material (seedlings) stored in a warm way (18-20ºC at 60-70% humidity) does not require any procedures to activate growth processes. A week before planting, it is sorted out, rejecting dried, sprouted and rotting bulbs, and sorted, dividing into 2-3 fractions.

It is recommended to sow the finest fraction (diameter less than 1.5 cm) at an earlier date, since it does not give shooters. Sowing from the middle fraction (diameter 1.5-2 cm) gives the best yield, but provided that the planting is done in a sufficiently warm soil. Large onions (more than 3 cm in diameter) can be used for growing onions on a feather or for obtaining turnips for canning, as they often give arrows, which affects keeping quality.

If the planting material was stored at low temperatures (in the attic, in the cellar, etc.), then 2 - 3 weeks before planting it must be transferred to a warm room and dried (the container with the seed can simply be placed near the battery, but not very close ).

The calibrated set is heated at 40ºC for 8 hours to kill internal infection (can be put on a battery in a cardboard box). Before planting, the bulbs are soaked in hot water for 12-24 hours. Instead of water, you can use a weakly concentrated solution of complex fertilizers.

Immediately before planting, the planting material is treated with a pale solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicide (for example, copper sulfate) for 15 minutes. After processing, rinsing in clean warm water is required.

Some summer residents prune the "tails" at the sevka to accelerate germination. However, such a procedure damages the protective barrier and opens the door for infection, so it is better to do with soaking, which will halve the time to germination.

Planting technique of onion sets

On a leveled bed, shallow grooves are cut. The distance between the grooves should be 15-20 cm so that it is convenient to care for the plants. If the soil is not moist enough, the furrows are shed with water. Onions respond well to the introduction of wood ash and sand into the furrows.

In a prepared bed, you can plant a processed seed. The bulbs are buried with the bottom down to the "shoulders", and then sprinkled with earth, so that a layer of 2 cm is obtained on top. Surface plantings will give earlier shoots, but with this technique, you will not get a good turnip.

Sevok is placed in a row at a distance of 6-10 cm (depending on the variety). Some summer residents advise planting it tightly with a "snake" in order to get not only bulbs, but also greenery from one garden bed. As the plants grow in the row, they are thinned out, removing the bulbs along with the feather. This method is convenient in a small garden bed, when there is confidence that it will be thinned out in time.

How to grow a head from seeds in one season?

Growing onions for a turnip in the Non-Black Earth Region, the Far East and Siberia takes place in a two-year culture, that is, first, a set is obtained from the seeds, from which a turnip is grown the next year. In the southern regions and Central Russia, some sweet and semi-sharp varieties and hybrids can form a marketable bulb from seeds in one season. To get a turnip immediately from seeds, you need to carry out early spring and winter sowing or use seedlings.

If weather conditions permit, then onions can be sown at the end of April directly into the open ground. To speed up the germination of seeds, they must be placed in warm water or a solution of growth stimulants for 1-2 days.

Sowing is best done in high ridges. Seeds are sown to a depth of about 2 cm, using a belt method with a distance of 20 cm between the belts. Thus, if the ridge is 1 meter wide, then 4-5 rows can fit on it. Seedlings need regular watering and double thinning. The first time they thin out a few days after mass shoots, leaving an interval of 2 cm between the plants, and the second time - in the phase of 2-3 true leaves with an interval of 6 cm.

In winter, seeds are sown from late October to mid-November. Podzimny sowing is distinguished by an increased seeding rate (3 times) and mulching of crops with peat. Seedlings appear earlier, so the bulb ripens earlier.

Mainly sweet salad varieties are grown through seedlings. Sowing seedlings in a heated greenhouse is carried out in early March. It is also possible to grow seedlings at home, but only with sufficient lighting. When sowing in nutrient soil, seedlings only need regular watering. Plants are planted in open ground at the age of 55 days (they should already have 3 - 4 true leaves). To do this, choose a cloudy day or evening. They are planted with a row spacing of 25 cm, between plants in a row they are kept at 6 - 8 cm.

The best varieties and hybrids

Onions are very sensitive to the length of daylight hours, therefore, for planting, you need to choose only zoned varieties or achievements of local selection. Varieties bred in northern regions, in the south, with a short daylight hours, may not form a bulb at all. When creating your collection of favorites in the garden, include representatives from different groups in it. Spicy varieties are distinguished by high keeping quality and productivity, semi-sharp and sweet ones have good taste.

A guaranteed yield can be obtained by planting old local varieties. In different regions, Strigunovsky, Rostov local, Bessonovsky, Spassky, Mstersky, Pogarsky, Timiryazevsky received popular fame. They are zoned quite widely and are known among gardeners throughout Central Russia and beyond.

Of the widely zoned acute varieties and hybrids, it is worth noting Zolotisty Semko, Centurion and Stuttgarter rizen.

Golden Semko - early ripe with a large rounded golden bulb, which is formed in one season immediately from seeds; gives a high yield; cultivated in all regions of Russia.

Centurion - a little shooting hybrid with a medium early ripening period; bulbs are golden, medium in size, slightly elongated; resistant to disease.

Stuttgarter rizen - mid-season with large, slightly flattened bulbs.

Semi-sharp varieties for Central Russia: Zolotnichok, Odintsovets, Sputnik, Myachkovsky 300, Red Baron.

Spool - medium early with golden rounded bulbs.

Myachkovsky 300 - early high-yielding with medium-sized flattened yellow bulbs; suitable for growing turnip directly from seed.

Red Baron - early ripening; dark purple bulbs, rounded, weighing up to 150 g.

Good varieties and hybrids of sweet onions: Exibishen, Ritmo, Comet.

Exibition - medium ripening with large oval yellow bulbs; suitable for growing in annual crops from seeds; has a high yield, but low keeping quality.

Comet - late ripening with large white onions; disease resistant and suitable for long-term storage.

It can be difficult for novice gardeners to decide which onion to plant on the head. After all, not only taste and yield are important here, but also keeping quality and resistance to diseases. Moreover, the same variety in different soil and climatic conditions can show different results. Therefore, select up to 5 different varieties in order to highlight your favorites in 2-3 seasons.

The subtleties of plant care

Young seedlings need regular (1-2 times a week) and moderate watering, followed by loosening the row spacing to restore root aeration. With the beginning of the formation of the head, the frequency of watering is reduced, and a month before harvesting, they are not carried out at all for the successful ripening of the bulb. However, in severe drought, it is recommended to spray with a small amount of water.

Weeds pose a serious threat to seedlings, so weeding must be timely. Hilling plants and close loosening are not allowed. Weeds in a row are removed by hand to avoid damaging a bulb with a weak root system.

Many summer residents are advised to carry out one or even two dressings per season. However, there is no need for them on fertile soils filled with organic matter since autumn. On poor soils, the first feeding with liquid organic fertilizers (horse manure, bird droppings, mullein) is carried out about a month after planting. The second feeding is carried out during the formation of the turnip, using phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. To exclude root burns, top dressing is carried out after moistening the soil and before watering.

The garden bed, as a rule, is ready already in the fall; usually after cabbage or zucchini, pumpkin, strawberry, green manure. After harvesting, I cover it with lime and cover it with black spunbond until spring.

It happens that I cook the garden right after winter. I always choose a sunny and dry place and, as soon as the earth warms up, I dig out a trench, put overripe compost, sand, garden soil, spill it with Baikal-EM and cover it with foil and black spunbond. On such a bed, weeds do not grow due to a lack of light, and the soil warms up faster, and beneficial microorganisms begin to work early.

In the spring, on the day of planting, I open the garden bed, add ash (1-2 glasses per 1 m²), complete mineral fertilizer for onions, loosen it, spill it with Fitosporin solution.

Seed selection.

Choose a variety that is adapted to your climate zone and resistant to various diseases.

From a large assortment in a garden store, I prefer an oblong, elongated sevka: for some reason, this one on my site gives a guaranteed healthy and abundant harvest. I buy sevok in February, and in early spring I sort out the planting material, remove diseased, dried onions, sorting them by size.

To get a good turnip, the ideal dimensions are 2 cm wide and 3 cm high. I find such an "ideal" and use it to select seed material, plus or minus 0.5 cm. Anything smaller I "reject" and plant in a greenhouse along the edge of the garden on green feathers. This is not some whim, but a well-grounded decision: too small a seedling does not have a good supply of nutrients, so a small turnip grows, and the plants are weak, with late shoots and maturation of the head a week later.

After this work, I pour the remaining onions into a box, sprinkle with ashes and put them in a dry place before planting in the garden.

For 1 m² of a garden bed, you will need about 0.5-0.8 kg of seed.

Landing dates.

Each time it is very difficult to choose the correct planting dates: plant early, there is a risk of getting a large number of shooters if the planting freezes, and late - a good and large head may not have time to mature. Difficulties, of course, arise due to weather cataclysms: during the day it can be very hot, up to + 15 ° С, and at night the temperature drops to -10 ° С.

Therefore, I stock up on non-woven fabric and ... wait for the weather (ツ)

It is necessary that the soil warms up to at least + 12 ° C., From about May 15. Onion sets will be able to withstand small frosts, up to -3 ° C, but it is better that this does not happen, otherwise wait for shooting. And, as a rule, the onions transfer the lower temperature while still in the ground. With the emergence of seedlings, susceptibility to low temperatures only increases.

Seed preparation for planting.

The next common question is whether or not to trim the tops of the set.

Through trial and error, I came to the conclusion that if you want to get more greenery, then you should cut the top off approximately 0.3 mm; and if you need a crop of good onions, then it is better not to cut off, but pinch off the dry apical tails.

A soaked and cut set grows back better, since the bottom of the bulb is soaked, which facilitates root formation, and growth is accelerated for greens. Only the sections must be processed against the penetration of all kinds of pests and pathogens. I do it like this: I soak the seed material in a warm solution of Fitosporin for 3 hours, then filter and mix with ash. And I plant such a "dirty" seed. At the same time, plants develop better.

Pruning should be done on the day of planting.

Remember that if you are planting, you cannot prune it.

To get greens on the table faster, I separately plant onion sets on a feather. I do it back in March-April in a greenhouse.

Landing.

If the soil is loose, then the onion can be stuck into the ground by holding it by the barrel. It is necessary to hold it so that when lowering into the ground, it is not the root that pierces the soil, but your fingertips.

(see photo next).

Planting depth depends on the size of the planting and should not exceed two heights. The distance between the rows is not more than 10 cm, and the rows themselves are not more than 5-7 cm. If necessary, I thin out using onions for cooking.

If the ground is not soft enough, then, firstly, add sand, and secondly, make small grooves, for example, with a flat cutter, tamp the bottom and spread the sevok with the bottom down, and loosen it.

• For even plantings, you can use cages from under the eggs, only each hole will have to be additionally deepened a little.

I immediately cover the beds with spunbond, if there are strong frosts, which is not uncommon, then I put on the second layer.

I plant sevok not only in a separate bed, but also to carrots, to beets, to tomatoes on the street. But there, basically, there are onions, which I then pull out with green feathers for food.

I liked using the hydrogel when planting. So I was able to get rid of the rotting of the bulbs in the rainy summer: the hydrogel took away excess moisture and gave it only when the plants needed it.

Sevk care.

Onion fly control.

I do one preventive watering against the pest: 100 gr. coarse salt on a 5-liter watering can with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. Instead of watering with salt water, you can sprinkle salt when planting seedlings.

You can also sprinkle the ground with ash with tobacco dust, 1 m² for ½ cup.

If possible, I keep planting with onions longer under spunbond arcs; in this way, I protect them from the onion fly, whose years begin with the flowering of cherries and dandelions.

And I already wrote, but I will repeat, “To protect against onion flies, I advise you to throw a couple of carrot seeds every meter when planting in rows. Of course, you won't get the harvest, but the smell of carrots scares away the fly. "

Peronosporosis, prevention and control measures.

Peronosporosis or downy mildew is a fungal disease, one of the most common diseases of onions. You can notice it after three weeks: the leaves are curved, practically do not grow, yellow spots and purple, and then gray bloom appear.

The disease occurs in low light, damp and rainy weather, low temperatures up to + 15 ° C. The fungus hibernates on plant debris or seed. Infection is transmitted by spores of the fungus with the wind and over a long distance.

If you prepare the seedlings and beds as described above, then downy mildew will bypass you.

You need to fight the disease as soon as you saw its first signs:

• dry the soil by stopping watering and increasing loosening;

  add ash - 1 glass per 1 m².,

  spilling with Fitosporin solution will also help,

  Metaxil, Ordan, Proton - drugs of the 3rd hazard class, contact-systemic action, spraying on young leaves and at the beginning of bulb formation; protect, have a long-term preventive and curative effect.

After harvesting, the leaves must be burned.

As you can see from the article, growing sevok for a turnip is a rather troublesome business, but the most difficult work takes place in the spring. If you do it carefully and correctly, then in the future you will free yourself from additional watering, dressing, and pest control. Planting sevka will only need to be weeded and loosened.

Article author: Love

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1. How to grow onions.
2. Planting and growing leeks.
3. Secrets of growing onion - shallots.
4. Planting and growing onions - batuna.

The onion family includes such common plants in our gardens as batun, onions, and shallots. They are grown for the sake of obtaining the first spring greens, rich in vitamins and phytoncides, as well as bulbs, which are used in the preparation of various dishes and in canning.

Most onions are unpretentious crops, and even a novice gardener can grow a good harvest, subject to some simple rules.

It is not recommended to grow onions in one place for more than 2 years. The best precursors for onions are cucumbers, cabbage, potatoes and legumes. In addition, you can plant onions and garlic after beets, zucchini, squash. Carrots and tomatoes are bad precursors.

Pests. The main pests of onions are onion flies. To combat them, dig up ridges in the fall on which onions or garlic grew, before planting, treat the seed with insecticides, and heat the onion sets for 24 hours at a temperature of + 40-45 degrees. A good result is the use of ash or tobacco dust, if sprinkled with onion beds, as well as watering the plants with a solution of water and table salt (200 g per bucket of water).

Major diseases. Of the diseases that affect onions, the greatest damage to the crop can be caused by neck rot, as well as downy mildew. For control and prevention, immediately after harvesting, it is recommended to dig up the soil and add slaked lime or ash to it. It is recommended to burn damaged plants.

How to grow onions

Onions are a universally familiar crop grown for bulbs and for feathers (i.e. greens). There are several varieties of onions, which differ in ripening time, bulb color and taste. A good harvest of this crop can be obtained several times a year: in spring and summer in the garden, in autumn and winter in greenhouses. A small amount of greenery can be grown even in an apartment on a windowsill.

Temperature conditions. Onions are a completely cold-resistant culture, their seeds germinate well at + 3-5 degrees. And the optimum temperature for growing a plant is 23-25 \u200b\u200b° C, hotter weather can negatively affect the crop yield.

Planting methods

To obtain bulbs, plants are planted in the ground using a seedling and seedling method; onions can also be grown from seedlings.

Seedless cultivation. The easiest way to plant onions is seedless. Sow the seeds directly into the ground, burying them 1-1.5 cm into the soil (so that the seedlings appear faster, pre-soak the seeds).

Onions can be harvested 23-24 weeks after planting, making this growing method only suitable for mild climates where planting can be done in early spring. In the middle lane, when planted in open ground, the onion may not have time to ripen, so in order to get a good harvest, use a sub-winter sowing or seedling method.

Sowing in winter should be carried out after the onset of stable cold weather so that the onion does not have time to germinate. Prepare the beds in advance, until the soil is frozen. Sow the seeds into the furrows to a depth of 5-6 cm, sprinkle on top with a layer of humus 2-3 cm.

Growing onions through seedlings.To get strong seedlings, sow seeds in March in shallow boxes or special cassettes. Use ready-made potting mix or fertile garden soil. After sowing, cover the boxes with foil and maintain the temperature within 18-25 ° C, when shoots appear, transfer the boxes to a cool place (10-12 ° C) so that the shoots do not stretch out.

After a week, you can increase the temperature by 6-8 ° C. Remove the shelter for several hours a day for ventilation. Water the onion seedlings after 2-3 days. You can feed her 1-2 times a minute. fertilizers (20 g of ammonium nitrate, 15 g of potassium chloride and 40 g of superphosphate per bucket of water).

Planting seedlings in open ground. Before planting seedlings in open ground, it is a good idea to harden them.

Seedlings are best planted at a distance between rows of 10-12 cm, between plants in a row - 6 cm. In order not to damage the roots of plants during planting, it is best to transplant onions with a lump of earth. Water the soil abundantly on the prepared beds before planting.

Planting onion seedlings.

The easiest way to plant onions. A less troublesome way to grow onions in areas with a temperate and cool climate is to plant sets (small bulbs grown from seeds). Plant in early May, making holes with a scoop or a peg and deepening the bulbs by about 1 cm (try not to sprinkle the neck with earth). Plant the seedlings at a distance of 20-25 cm between rows and 5-10 cm between bulbs. It is convenient to use a double-row tape planting at a distance of 20-35 cm between rows and 5-10 cm between bulbs.

Indoors, when growing onions on a feather (for greens), use sets as planting material.

Preparing the soil for planting onions

A good harvest can be obtained only when planted in well-lit, sunny areas with rich soil. Onions do not tolerate stagnant moisture well, so this culture works best in drained areas. The soil on them should not be clayey.

It is best to prepare a plot for growing onions in the fall. Dig up the ground to the depth of a shovel bayonet, remove weed roots, apply rotted manure, mineral fertilizers. In the spring, loosen the topsoil, then level everything with a rake.

How to water

Winter planting of onions.

During the formation and growth of leaves, onions should be watered regularly (in May - once a week, and in June - once every 10 days), loosen the soil in the aisles between waterings and carefully weed out the weeds. However, remember that a completely different humidity regime is needed to ripen the bulbs, so stop watering completely 3-4 weeks before harvesting.

When growing onions in greenhouses, water the soil as it dries and loosen it between waterings.

How to feed and fertilize onions

When growing onions in the open field, fertilize per 1 m2 according to the following scheme: in the fall, when preparing the soil, add 4 kg of compost and 100 g of potassium sulfate; in the spring before planting - 25 g of nitrogen fertilizers; after the formation of the first leaves - 20 g of nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers, and 5-7 days after that fertilize the plants with manure diluted in water (in a ratio of 1: 10) or poultry droppings (in a ratio of 1: 20).

To get a good harvest, carry out one more top dressing during the period of bulb formation: add more phosphorus-potassium fertilizers at the rate of 15-25 g per 1 m2.

If you notice that the onion grows slowly and its leaves turn white, add a mixture of 200 g of mullein and 20 g of urea, dissolved in a bucket of water. After 15 days, feed the plants with more nitrophoska solution.

Onions grown by sowing seeds (nigella) are fed for the first time in the phase of appearance of the fourth leaf with infusion of mullein (1:10) or chicken droppings (1:20), consumption - a bucket of 3-4 sq. m. In the aisles, grooves are made 6-8 cm deep, watered with fertilizer infusion and covered with soil. Two weeks later, a second feeding is carried out: a teaspoon of urea and potassium sulfate, 2 teaspoons of superphosphate per sq. m.

When growing onions on a feather in open or closed ground, apply complex fertilizers (1 time in 10 days).

Planting and growing leeks

Leeks are a relatively new culture in our country, found in vegetable gardens less often than other bulbous ones. This type of onion is more common in the southern regions (this is due to the rather long period from emergence to harvest).

Leeks are grown to obtain a thickened lower white part of the stem (this plant does not form bulbs), if desired, young green leaves can also be used for food. The main conditions for obtaining a good harvest of this crop are the correct choice of a site for planting and timely fertilization.

Temperature regime

To get a good harvest, the average temperature during the growing season should be 17-23 ° C, although in general the crop is cold-resistant and can withstand short-term frosts down to -7 ° C.

When growing leeks in seedlings, plant the seedlings in the ground when the soil warms up to +10 ° C.

Planting leeks

In the southern regions of our country, leeks can be grown by sowing in open ground; in regions with a cool climate, a seedling method of growing is recommended - in this case, you can get a harvest in the year of sowing (about 45-60 days after planting seedlings in the beds) ... The ripening time depends on the early maturity of the variety, on weather conditions and on the fulfillment of agrotechnical requirements.

To speed up the emergence of seedlings, pre-wet and germinate. Seedling care is about the same as growing onions: water the seedlings regularly. You can apply liquid complex fertilizers once. The optimum temperature for the growth of leek seedlings is 18-25 ° C before seed germination and 14-16 ° C after germination. If the temperature is higher and the lighting is inadequate, the seedlings will stretch.

Plant seedlings in the ground in late April or early May. Plant in furrows 10-15 cm deep (at least 10 cm between individual plants). After 2 weeks, cover the furrows with fertile soil.

The soil should be fertile and necessarily loose, preferably neutral. On acidic soils, you will not be able to get a good harvest of leeks.

How to water onions

Planting leeks.

Leeks are moisture-loving plants, so make sure to water them regularly from the time of planting to the end of the growing season, increasing the frequency of watering during the dry months. Loose the row spacings after each watering.

Hilling onions

In order to grow juicy bleached stems and a high yield, huddle leeks 3-4 times per season. And of course, besides this, do not forget to weed out and loosen the soil.

Top dressing

Feed leeks regularly - without this, you will not be able to get a good harvest. Nitrogen fertilizers are especially important for leeks - they are especially needed in the second half of summer, when greenery is actively forming.

The optimal will be the alternation of liquid organic fertilizers, for example, an aqueous solution of mullein 1: 8 or bird droppings 1:20 at the rate of 3 liters per 1 sq. m. and mineral fertilizers (for example, a solution of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate at the rate of 15-20 g per 1 m2).

Planting and growing shallots

Shallots or family onions, multi-nested, are prized for their early maturity and taste. This type is less common than onions. In one nest, several medium-sized onions are formed, which have a less pungent taste than regular onions. Shallots can be grown outdoors for bulbs and feathers, indoors for feathers. Shallot leaves do not coarse for a long time and remain juicy.

Temperature regime

Shallots tolerate low temperatures well. If you leave it to winter, it can easily withstand soil freezing down to -20 degrees, and in spring the greens will appear earlier than other types of onions. The optimum temperature for shallots during the growing season is 20-24 ° C.

Planting shallots

Growing onions - shallots.

Shallots are easiest to propagate vegetatively by planting bulbs, and seed propagation is preferable for growing new varieties.

Soak the bulbs before planting for 20-30 minutes in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, and then rinse with cold water.

Plant in spring (late April to early May) or fall (late September to early October). For spring planting, use medium-sized bulbs (3-4 cm in diameter), for autumn planting, use smaller bulbs (about 2 cm in diameter).

Plant the bulbs to a depth of 2-4 cm; for autumn planting, mulch them with peat or earth with a layer of 3-4 cm.

To obtain large shallot bulbs, experienced gardeners suggest planting in the spring, planting the bulbs 15 cm apart, and between the rows 30 cm.In the process of growing, periodically pull out one bulb from each nest (they can be used for food), so that by autumn 1-2 bulbs are left in each nest.

When growing shallots on a feather in a protected ground, plant from the second half of February, then in the spring you will harvest the first crop of greens.

When forcing the shallots onto a feather, the bulbs can be reused. To do this, after cutting the greens, remove them from the soil, cut them across and plant them again in boxes or pots with a fertile soil mixture.

Tillage

When growing shallots outdoors in spring, remove the covering material from the beds as soon as possible so that the soil warms up faster. In this case, you will speed up the harvest of greens.
After emergence, loosen the aisles and rows and thoroughly weed.

It is recommended to loosen the row spacing 2-3 times during the summer to a depth of 5-6 cm, after each watering it is enough to loosen the soil to a depth of 3-5 cm. During loosening, it is not recommended to add the soil to the plants themselves, as this slows down the ripening of the bulbs.

If you are growing shallots in a greenhouse, loosen the soil not deeply, but after each watering.

Watering

In the first half of the growing season, water the shallot regularly: from May to mid-July - 3-4 times a week, in hot and dry weather, you can increase the number of waterings. In the second half of summer, you need to water less, and you can stop watering 2-3 weeks before collecting the bulbs.

Water shallots indoors regularly, but in moderation. Loosen after every watering.

How to feed shallots

During the entire growing season, it is recommended to feed the shallots 1-2 times (this is enough to get a rich harvest both in the open and in the closed ground). Use an aqueous solution of mullein (1: 10), poultry droppings (1: 15) or complex mines. fertilizers (based on 20 g per 10 l of water).

Planting and growing onions - batuna

Onion - batun is a perennial plant that can be grown both outdoors and in greenhouses. In one place, the plant can be successfully grown for several years, but in the third year its yield decreases, the leaves become coarser.

There are several varieties of onion in the culture, which can be divided into two main groups. Early-ripening peninsulars yield crops in early spring, late-ripening acute ones ripen 30-40 days later. Growing onion is not difficult, especially if you plant varieties that are resistant to diseases.

Temperature regime

The onion is a winter-hardy crop, it tolerates frosts down to -45 ° C. The optimum temperature for the growing season is 19-23 ° C.

Sowing onions - batuna

Batun onions can be propagated by seedling and seedling. Planting seeds in open ground begins at the end of April, to a depth of 2 cm.The simplest method is line sowing at a distance of 40-50 cm between rows, but you can also use a strip sowing scheme: sow seeds in 2-5 lines at a distance of 10 cm between rows and the same amount between plants.

Onions - batun easily reproduce in a vegetative way. To do this, simply separate the bushes and plant each onion separately. It is best to do this in the spring or late summer. Plant the bulbs in rows.

For a good harvest, plant onions in spring, at least in summer or early fall.
For forcing in winter, in the fall, dig up a few plants and transplant them into boxes, put them in a warm, bright place and water 2-3 times a week.

Getting an early harvest of onions

To get early greenery in late February - early March, plant the onion in tunnel-type film greenhouses. This method will allow you to get the harvest two or even three weeks earlier (while it will be 1.5-2 times higher than when growing onions in the open field).

You can also use a frameless shelter: sow the seeds of onion-batuna in open ground and cover with a perforated film, sprinkling it around the edges with earth.

For forcing on a feather, the onion can be grown in a greenhouse. In the fall, plant the cuttings in rows, and in March, when the onion leaves grow 15-20 cm, harvest the first crop.

When growing onion in a greenhouse, make shallow furrows on the ridges, plant bulbs in them and cover them with soil. To obtain a good harvest, keep the temperature in the greenhouse at + 10-15 C, gradually increasing it to 20 C. The optimum air humidity is 70-80%. Apply mineral fertilizers to the soil 7-10 days after planting.

Loosening

Loosening the row spacing is the key to getting a good onion harvest. A few days after the first weeding, loosen the soil between the rows of plants.

Watering

To get fresh juicy greens, do not forget to water the spring onion (with a lack of moisture, its leaves coarse and become bitter). The recommended rate is 3-4 times a week, 10-20 l / m2. Loose the aisles 3-4 hours after watering.

How to feed onion - batun

To get a good harvest of onions, do not forget to feed it with mullein diluted in a 1: 8 ratio or bird droppings (1: 20), one feeding per season is enough. After harvesting, it is advisable to add liquid mineral fertilizers (50 g of ammonium nitrate, 3 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride per 10 liters of water).

Onions are a common vegetable in home gardening because they have a wide range of uses, are easy to grow and take up little space. In addition, onions have a short growing season, which means that you can start harvesting in spring, after which it can be dried and stored until winter consumption.

Steps

Part 1

Preparing for landing

Choose the type of onion you will be growing. Like most fruits and vegetables? there are many varieties of onions with different properties. Onions generally come in three colors: white, yellow, and red / purple - each with a distinct flavor. Additionally, onions are divided into two groups: short day onions and long day onions. Long day onions are so called because they begin to sprout when the day length is 14-16 hours (late spring / summer), while short day onions begin to germinate when the day length is 10-12 hours (winter, early spring) ...

Decide how you will plant the onions. In general, there are two common ways of growing onions: by seedlings (onion sets) or by seed. Gardeners often prefer to grow onions with sets because they are more resilient and weather-resistant than seeds. However, if you have the ability and desire to grow onions from seeds at home, and then transplant them outside, you can easily do this.

• You can, of course, try growing onions from seedlings / cuttings, but this is not always a good way and is much more laborious than growing from seeds or sets.
• Visit your nearest nursery for advice on seeds and sets that are successfully growing in your area.

1. Know when to grow. Onions can sometimes be difficult to grow if planted at the wrong time. If you plant onions in the spring in cold weather, they can die or use up all the energy in flowering rather than growing the bulbs. If you are sowing seeds, start 6 weeks before planting outdoors. Onions can be planted outdoors in late March or early April, or when the temperature does not drop below -11 ° C.

   Choose the perfect location. Onions are not too picky about the conditions, but there are still some preferences. Choose a location that is large enough to be fully sunlit. The onions will grow large if you give them enough space, so remember that the more space you give them, the larger the onions you will get. Avoid planting onions where larger plants or trees can shade them.

   • Onions grow well in raised beds, so if you can't find a suitable spot for them in your garden, you can build a separate raised bed for your bow.

2. Prepare the soil. While it does take a little preparation, if you can prepare the soil for your plot a few months before planting, you will get the best yield. If possible, start cultivating the soil by adding manure in the fall. If your soil is rocky, or sandy, or clayey, add some good garden soil to balance it out. Additionally measure the pH level of your soil and add appropriate additives to bring this value to 6-7.5.

   • The pH should be tested and adjusted to the required value at least one month before planting, so that all additives have time to take effect, preparing the basis for successful onion growth.

   Part 2

   Planting your bow

   1. Prepare the soil. When you are ready to plant, dig in the soil to a depth of about 15 centimeters and apply a small amount (1 cup per 6 meters) of phosphate fertilizer. Use a 10-20-10 or 0-20-0 blend to further stimulate the growth of your onion. At the same time, do not forget to remove weeds that may be present in your area, which you are preparing for planting.

      Dig holes. Plant the onions so that there is no more than one inch of soil above the bulb; if you plant it too deep, onion growth will be slowed down and weakened. Place the bulbs 10-15 cm apart and the seeds 2.5-5 cm apart. When your onion begins to grow, you can transplant it by spacing the bulbs further to increase their size.

      Plant an onion. Place the seeds in the holes you dug and cover them with soil 1 to 2 cm. Use your hands or feet to compact the soil above the bulbs; they grow better in dense rather than loose soil. Finish planting with a little watering and you're done for you to watch them grow!

      • Onion seedlings require more water than seeds or seedlings, so if you plant them, give them a little more moisture.

   2. Maintain your onion patch. Onions are a relatively delicate plant with a fragile root system that is easily damaged and injured by weeds or loosening of the soil. Use a hoe to cut off the aerial portion of emerging weeds, instead of pulling them out; pulling weeds can damage the roots of the onion and impair its growth. Provide your onions with about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week and additional nitrogen fertilization once a month. One month after planting, place a layer of mulch between the plants to retain moisture and prevent weeds.

      • If you want your onions to taste sweeter, water them liberally.
      • If any of your bulbs start to bloom, pluck them out. These bulbs have gone 'blooming' and will no longer grow or taste better.

   3. Harvest the onions. The onions are fully ripe when the tops are golden yellow; at this time, bend the tops so that they lie horizontally on the ground. This manipulation will cause the onions to move nutrients into the bulb rather than continuing to channel them into leaf growth. After 24 hours, the tops should dry out and the onions should be ready to harvest. Dig the onion out of the soil and trim the tops and roots about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the onion. Leave the onions to dry for one or two days in the sun, then store them in a dry place in your home for 2-4 weeks to continue drying them.

   • To start planting onions in the garden earlier, plant the sets in containers filled with moist soil two weeks before planting them on the site. Keep containers in the house so the bulbs can hatch and begin growing the root system by the time you are ready to plant them in the ground.
   • To prevent disease and infestations, try planting radishes next to your onions.

   Warnings

   • Although onions are relatively resistant to pests, sometimes they can still fall prey to larvae that eat the bulbs. Insecticidal soap, if used as directed, can solve this problem.
   • Different types of onions require different lengths of the day, correspondingly warmer or colder climates. When buying a plant or seed, make sure you are buying a variety that can be grown in your area.

Seeds sown dry usually emerge in 15-20 days in the form of loops, then straighten. As the leaves grow, a shortened stem begins to form, called the bottom (several millimeters high). Reserve nutrients are deposited in the bases of leaves in succulent scales, which, together with a shortened stem - the bottom, form a bulb capable of prolonged dormancy and enduring prolonged drought. One or more buds, called primordia, are laid on the bottom in the leaf axils. From the vegetative buds, new bulbs are formed the next year, from the generative ones - flower arrows.

In the future, the leaves begin to die off, and the nutrients from them pass through the bottom into the bulb. In the process of ripening, the outer scales covering the bulb dry up and a so-called shirt is formed, which, depending on the variety, is colored yellow, brown, red-violet or white. On the underside of the bottom, roots up to 30-40 cm long are formed, which do not have lateral branches.

Floral arrows in onions are formed in the second or third year, after the growth points of the primordia have passed the vernalization stage. The flowers are white, collected in inflorescences in the form of a spherical umbrella. The ovary is superior, three-celled. The fruit is a capsule. With full fertilization, six black seeds ("nigella") are formed.

Onion seeds are small, wrinkled, triangular in shape, black in color, have a dense cornea and contain essential oil, as a result of which the swelling and germination of seeds occurs slowly.

Nutritional value

Bulbs contain from 8 to 21% dry matter, including 1-4% proteins, 9.6% sugars (mainly sucrose), 1.8% fiber. Onions contain vitamins C (from 4 to 10 mg%), B1, B2, PP, U, carotene, as well as mineral salts - phosphorus, calcium, magnesium and iron.

Bulbs are used to prepare various dishes - fresh in salads and after various culinary treatments.

Unwanted items

Onions rarely accumulate high concentrations of nitrates, but during cultivation and storage, the bulbs can become affected by fungal diseases, as a result of which toxins secreted by the fungi can enter the food. Therefore, it is necessary to take measures to prevent onion disease. One of the causes of onion diseases is its cultivation the next year after the application of manure.

Growing onions in the garden

New varieties of onions with a description

Hiberna MC (WORLD OF GARDENING) - recommended for winter sowing (in August) and cultivation in a two-year culture from seedlings. The period from planting seedlings to mass lodging and yellowing of leaves is 65-75 days. Three-pronged. The bulb is round, weighing up to 125 g. The number of dry scales is 2-3, their color is yellow. The juicy scales are white. The taste is semi-sharp. Productivity 1.1-5.3 kg / sq. m. Ripening of onions before harvesting 89-100%, after ripening 94-100%.

Aleko (NOSOVSKAYA SELECTION EXPERIMENTAL STATION) - for growing in an annual culture from seeds and a biennial culture from seedlings. Mid-season. The bulb is round, dense, weighing 50-60 g. Dry scales of a light purple color, tightly adjacent to the juicy ones. Juicy scales are white with purple veins. The neck is of medium thickness. Two- and three-pronged, acute. The dry matter content is 14.7-15.2%, total sugar 9.5-10.6%, ascorbic acid 3.5-5.2 mg per 100 g of raw material. The yield of turnip in seed culture is 1.1-2.0 kg / sq. m. Ripening of onions before harvesting 89-94%, after ripening 92-96%. Suitable for long-term storage.

Alvina (VNIISSOK) - for growing in an annual culture from seeds and a biennial culture from seedlings. Mid-season, from germination to lodging of leaves 95-105 days. The bulb is flat, weighing 60-80 g (from seeds). Dry scales are purple, their number is 3-4, juicy scales are reddish (white with a purple tint). The neck is of medium thickness, three-pronged, semi-acute. The dry matter content is 13.2-14.0%, the total sugar content is 10.4-11.5%. The yield of a turnip in an annual crop is 1.4-2.6 kg / sq. m. Ripening of onions before harvesting 85-95%, after ripening 94-100%. Stored for 6-7 months.

Borodkovsky (VNIISSOK) - for growing in an annual culture from seeds and two-year crops from seedlings. Medium early, from germination to lodging of leaves 89-106 days (from seeds) and 67-75 days (from seedlings). The bulb is round-flat, very dense. Bulb weight when cultured from seeds is 28 g, when cultured from seedlings 55-120 g. Dry scales are yellow, their number is 3-4. The juicy scales are white. Small-sized, acute. Dry matter content 15.6%, total sugar 11.3%, ascorbic acid 7.6 mg per 100 g of raw material. The yield of a turnip in seed culture is 1-1.5 kg / sq. m, in a culture of seedlings 1.5-3.6 kg / sq. m. Ripening of onions after ripening 91-100%. At the level of standards, it is affected by peronosporosis, is moderately susceptible to cervical rot, and has an increased keeping quality.

Carmen MC (WORLD OF GARDENING) - for growing in annual culture from seeds and biennial - from seedlings. From sowing to lodging of leaves 64-96 days. Two-, three-pronged, weakly acute. The bulb is rounded flat, of medium density, weighing 50-70 g. The number of dry scales is 2-3, their color is violet. The juicy scales are white with a purple tint. Dry matter content 11.9-13.9%, total sugar 7.6-8.9%, ascorbic acid 3.8-19.4 mg per 100 g of raw material. The yield of a turnip when grown from seeds is 1.6 kg / sq. m. Ripening of onions before harvesting 90-100%, after ripening -100%.

Olin (WORLD OF GARDENING) - for growing in an annual culture from seeds and biennial crops from seedlings. From sowing to lodging of leaves when grown from seeds, 67-96 days and from seedlings — 60-87 days. Two-, three-pronged, semi-sharp. The bulb is round, dense, weighing 40-93 g. The number of dry scales is 2, their color is yellow. The juicy scales are white. Dry matter content 11.5%, total sugar 6.1%, ascorbic acid 6.9 mg per 100 g of raw material. The yield of a turnip when grown from seeds is 0.7-1.5 kg / sq. m. Ripening of onions before harvesting 80-100%, after ripening -90-100%.

Sigma (VNIISSOK) - for growing on a turnip in an annual culture from seeds and biennial - from seedlings. Mid-season. The bulb is round, medium in size, the color of dry scales is yellow, their number is 2-3, juicy - white. The neck is thin. Two- and three-pronged, acute. The dry matter content is 17.5%, the total sugar content is 12.1%. Bulb weight 60 - 80 g. Marketable yield of turnip in annual culture 2.4-2.6 kg / sq. m. Suitable for long-term storage. Possesses increased resistance to downy mildew.

Satellite(VNIISSOK) - mid-season, from shoots to lodging of leaves 95-106 days (from seeds). The bulb is flat (85%) to round-flat (15%), medium density, weighing 70-80 g. Dry scales are yellow, their number is 2-3. The juicy scales are white. The neck is of medium thickness. Two-pronged, semi-sharp. The dry matter content is 15.7%, the total sugar content is 10.1%. The yield of a turnip in an annual culture is 1.3-2.3 kg / sq. m. The maximum yield in an annual crop is 3.7 kg / sq. m. Ripening of onions before harvesting 70-100%, after ripening -90-100%. Possesses good keeping quality, increased resistance to peronosporosis.

Tarvin(VNIISSOK) - for growing on a turnip in an annual culture from seeds and biennial - from seedlings. Mid-season, from germination to lodging of leaves 90-105 days. The bulb is round-flat, weighing 90-100 g. Dry scales are yellow, 3-4 in number, juicy - white. The neck is of medium thickness. Three-pronged, acute. The dry matter content is 13.6%, the total sugar content is 10.3%. The yield of turnip in an annual culture is 1.7-2.0 kg / sq. m, the maximum yield is 3.8 "kg / sq. m. Ripening rate before harvesting 72-80%, after ripening 95-100%.

YUKONT(WESTERN SIBERIAN VEGETABLE EXPERIMENTAL STATION) - for growing in an annual culture from seeds and a biennial culture from seedlings. Early maturing, from germination to lodging of leaves 83-93 days (from seeds) and 62-73 days (from seedlings). The bulb is flat-round, weighing 30-83 g (from seeds), 89-100 g (from seedlings). Dry scales are purple, 3-4 in number. Juicy scales are light purple. The neck is of medium thickness. Single-edged, acute. The dry matter content is 14.8%, the total sugar content is 9.4%. The yield of a turnip in an annual culture is 1–2.1 kg / sq. m, in a biennial culture — 2.6 kg / sq. m. The maximum yield is 3.1 kg / sq. m. Ripening of onions before harvesting 68-93%, after ripening -76-100%. Stored for 8 months.

Features of growing onions

There are four ways to grow onions: sowing seeds in a permanent place, growing from seedlings, growing from seedlings, and vegetatively from small bulbs.

In the northern and central regions, most onion varieties are grown for 2 years. In the first year, small bulbs, the so-called onion sets, are formed from onion seeds, in the second year one or several large bulbs (turnip) are obtained from the set, and in the third year, seeds are grown from large bulbs.

With a lack of moisture and with thickened crops, onion growth is prematurely interrupted and a state of dormancy occurs. If during storage the bulbs were not under the influence of low positive temperatures for a certain period, then when planted next year they will continue to grow. On

Features of the cultivation of these features of the culture is based on the method of growing onions from sets.

From some varieties of onions, it is possible to grow a turnip from seeds in one year in the central zone of Russia.

Growth needs

Onions are relatively cold-resistant plants. Its seeds germinate at a temperature of +5 ... 6 ° C. Seedlings tolerate low temperatures and frosts.

Onion roots are not branching, underdeveloped, hence the high demands of this culture on the fertility and moisture of the soil.

At the beginning of growth and development, onions require a lot of soil moisture, and later, an excess of it delays the ripening of the bulb.

Accommodation

For successful onion cultivation, fertile soils with a neutral reaction are required. To ensure favorable growth conditions, the soil must have an increased humus content. Onions work best on light sandy loam and loamy or alluvial floodplain soils with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Onions do not tolerate waterlogged and saline soils.

The best predecessors are vegetable crops, abundantly fertilized with manure: potatoes, cabbage and pumpkin crops.

For onions, it is better to use areas dug up or plowed in the fall. In early spring, mineral fertilizers are applied and covered with a rake per 1 sq. m of urea 20 g, superphosphate 30 g, potassium chloride 20 g Onions, as a rule, must be grown in areas where cabbage, cucumbers or other vegetable crops grew last year, except for onions, under which manure or other organic fertilizer was applied.

Since the fall, the site is dug up with an introduction of 1 sq. m 3-5 kg \u200b\u200bof humus and 20 g of superphosphate and potassium salt, and in the zone of high moisture make ridges. The introduction of fresh manure and excessive doses of nitrogen is harmful. Onions are sensitive to high soil acidity, pH should be at least 6-7.

Growing from seeds in one year

Particular attention should be paid to the preparation of seeds for sowing so that the interphase period from sowing to germination is short. It should be borne in mind that annual onions in the middle lane do not always ripen and are stored worse in winter.

The most expedient is the preparation of seeds, including disinfection with a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate, then soaking them in a solution of trace elements with the addition of heteroauxin (10 mg per 1 l of water) and germination between layers of linen fabric for 2-3 days (until 50% pecking) ...

Seeds are sown in early spring, as soon as the soil is suitable for processing, in the middle lane - at the end of April. On light soils, seeds are planted to a depth of 2-3 cm, on heavy soils - 1-1.5 cm. After sowing, it is advisable to mulch the soil with peat or humus.

When growing turnip onions in one year, a very early and more rare sowing in a row is required compared to sowing for sowing. The distance between the rows is 20-25 cm. For a more even distribution of seeds (about 2.5 cm from each other), they are pre-dusted with tooth powder or chalk so that they are visible during sowing. From above, the crops are mulched with peat or, better, covered with a film to warm the soil.

Growing seedlings

Seedlings are grown in greenhouses, greenhouses or in a room on a window in a box for 50-60 days. To do this, seeds in the second half of March are sown in a box or greenhouse at a distance of 2-3 cm row from row. It is advisable to maintain the temperature of +20 ... 22 ° С before the emergence of shoots, later in the daytime +17 ... 20 ° С, and at night + 14 ° С.

Before planting, the seedlings are hardened for 2 days. By the time of transplantation, the seedlings are in the phase of 3-4 leaves and at the base reaches the thickness of a goose feather. When transplanting seedlings, the roots are cut by 1/3 and dipped in a dung-earthen or clay mash with heteroauxin or root roots in order to protect them from drying out during planting and stimulate the formation of new roots.

Planting seedlings in a permanent place is usually done in mid-May. Plants are placed in 3-5 lines with 20-25 cm aisles, the distance in a row is 6-8 cm. They are planted in shallow furrows at the same depth at which they grew during the seedling period. After planting, it is advisable to mulch the soil with humus or peat.

Care of crops and plantings

Immediately after the emergence of seedlings, the soil is loosened between the rows and dense seedlings are thinned, leaving a distance between the plants of 3-5 cm. After 18-20 days, a second thinning is carried out, leaving a distance of 10 cm between the plants in the row. how this can delay the formation of bulbs. During the summer, you need to carry out at least three, four loosening and weeding.

In late spring, onion hoverfly eggs are laid. To combat it 2-3 times pollinate onion plantings with tobacco dust.

Fertilizers are a very useful exercise. The first feeding is done in the phase of 2-3 true leaves: for one bucket of water 10-15 g of urea or talkers from bird droppings in a ratio of 1:10 with the addition of 30-40 g of superphosphate. In the same period, a second thinning is carried out. But in general, onion reacts negatively to organic fertilizers - keeping quality worsens, a tendency to disease appears.

With subsequent dressings, mineral fertilizer is applied: 30 g of superphosphate, 10 g of urea and 15 g of potassium chloride are dissolved in one bucket of water. One bucket of solution is consumed per row 10 m long. If the plants grow intensively, nitrogen is excluded from the feeding. In July - August, only superphosphate is added to top dressing — 30 g per 1 sq. m and potassium chloride -10 g per sq. m.

At the beginning of growth, onions need sufficient moisture. Excessive moisture in the second half of the growing season leads to the fact that the formation of the bulb is delayed. Dry and hot weather is necessary for bulbs to ripen. If the weather is humid, you can cover the onion with a waterproof film, but ventilate it daily.

Ripening of the bulbs can be delayed with excessive nitrogen nutrition and abundant soil moisture. Therefore, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers and watering should be stopped on June 10-15.

For better formation and ripening of the bulbs, at the end of July, the soil is loosened near the bulbs themselves and the soil is shaken off from the plant.

In the middle of summer, the second clutch of onion hoverflies occurs. To combat it 2-3 times the onion planting is pollinated with tobacco dust.

Growing turnip onions in two years (sowing culture)

The essence of the method is that in the first year small bulbs with a diameter of 1-3 cm, weighing 1-4 g are grown from seeds. In this method, the bulbs ripen earlier and the onions are better stored in winter. Ripening is accelerated by 30-45 days.

The preparation of soil and seeds is carried out in the same way as when growing from seeds in one year. To obtain a well-ripened seed plant, sowing is carried out densely, with a distance between the rows of 12-13 cm, and in a row the plants are 1-2 cm apart from each other. m will require 50-75 g of seeds. If nigella is rarely sown, then the seed on fertile soils will grow until autumn and will not ripen.

Seedlings are weeded 2-3 times and loosened, but not thinned out. When the second leaf appears, fertilizing is carried out with mineral fertilizers at the rate of 10 g of ammonium nitrate and superphosphate, 5 g of potassium chloride per 10 square meters. m.

Two months after sowing, only three or four leaves are formed, the plant height reaches 20 cm, small bulbs begin to form and the leaves turn yellow and die off. Cleaning starts in August.

The harvest of onion sets is significantly influenced by the harvest time. The earlier the onion sets finish the growing season, the deeper the dormant period and the later it comes out of this period. The optimal harvest time is 7 days after the beginning of the lodging of the leaves. A single lodging of leaves and their tops is a sign of lodging of a set. You cannot hesitate with harvesting, since with the onset of rainy weather, the seedlings start to grow and are poorly stored.

Onion sets are pulled out of the ground by hands, left for 10-15 days to dry, turning daily. The tops are removed only after complete drying, when they become thin and brittle. After drying the sevok on the garden bed, it is finally dried indoors and stored until the spring of next year. The largest onion yield is obtained from a fairly large set with a diameter of 22-25 mm, slightly smaller onions are obtained from a smaller set.

Onion sets are stored at a temperature of +12 ... 18 ° C. Sevok stored at low temperatures may produce more bulbs of arrowhead.

Growing turnip onions from onion sets

Processing of seedlings for planting in May begins at the end of April.

To prevent the formation of arrows and to activate the growth of primordia, as well as to disinfect, the onion sets are heated at a temperature of +45 ... 40 ° C for 8 hours 20 days before planting.

To combat onion thrips and stem nematode, the seedlings are disinfected in hot (+ 45 ° C) water for 10 minutes before planting, and then immediately immersed in cold water.

For growing onion, onion sets are planted in rows with row spacing of 20-25 cm, in a row a shallow set is planted every 8-10 cm to a depth of 3-4 cm. Onion sets should be planted in moist soil when it is at a depth of 5-10 cm will warm up to + 10 ... 12 ° С. Planting in cold soil will help start shooting.

10 sq. m requires 400-600 pieces of seed, when planting bulbs with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm they will weigh 350-500 g, with a diameter of 1.5-2.2 cm -700-800 g.

Onion care must be the most thorough. Not a single crop responds as well to timely soil loosening, watering and feeding as onions. Care consists in weeding and frequent shallow (4-5 cm) loosening of row spacings.

The first feeding is done 10 days after planting: 10-15 g of urea, 30-40 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salt per 10 liters of water. If the plants grow intensively, nitrogen is excluded from the feeding.

In the second feeding in early July, 30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium chloride are dissolved in 10 liters of water. One bucket of mortar is consumed per row 10 m long.

At the beginning of growth, the onions need sufficient moisture. Excessive moisture in the second half of the growing season leads to the fact that the formation of bulbs is delayed. Dry and hot weather is necessary for bulbs to ripen. If the weather is humid, you can cover the onion with a waterproof film, but ventilate it daily.

Harvesting onion

The onion is ready for harvesting when its leaves start to fall, it is very important to harvest it in a timely manner. Delaying the harvest time, especially in wet weather, leads to the fact that the onions begin to grow again. Such onions are poorly preserved in winter.

The harvested onions are dried and ripened for 10-14 days in a well-ventilated or heated room. When the neck of the onion is dry and thin, and the upper scales are colored and dry, the tops and roots are removed.

Warming up the onion before storage for 8 days at a temperature of +30 ... 35 ° С, and then another 12 hours to +40 ... 45 ° С can dramatically reduce the damage to the bulbs by neck rot. When heated, the onion cannot be overdried, otherwise the upper scales will crack.

After harvesting and drying, the onions are sorted, while small onions are selected - samples (less than 3 cm in diameter).

Storage of onions

Store onions on shelves with a layer of 30-35 cm. Can be kept tied in bunches, braids and hung on the wall. You can also store onions in baskets, boxes, bags. Onions are stored at a temperature of +1 ... 2 ° C, but they can be successfully stored at a higher temperature (+10 ... 12 ° C and even +18 ... 25 ° C). When stored in a warmer room, the bulbs deteriorate less than when stored in a cold room, although they dry out somewhat.

Winter landings

To get an earlier harvest of green onions, you need to plant the onions before winter. Planting is carried out on the ridges by a bridge, that is, the bulbs are placed close to each other. The distance between the ribbons is 50 cm, between the lines is 25 cm.