By this time our cart is ready and looks like the one shown in the illustration. During the weaving and processing of the vine, micro-roughness, roughness, burrs, micro-chips inevitably remain on it. Our task at this stage eliminate all these surface flaws. To do this, we first need to go over the entire surface of the basket with fine sandpaper, and then with a woolen cloth. When polishing, special attention should be paid to the handle, as well as the hoop and sections of the basket with the cleaned vine. The surface should be pleasant to the touch.

Staining

Surely you have seen baskets with color, darker than natural or even dyed in other colors. This is achieved by staining - wood stain treatment. Personally, I think that to achieve a spectacular look of the basket, it is enough to cover the basket with varnish. But if you need more, you can treat the basket with stain. To stain your basket or not is up to you.

Stains of different colors are sold in specialized construction and hardware stores. The composition is applied to the basket with an ordinary brush in several stages, while achieving uniform coloring.

Lacquering

Basket varnishing gives the product a shiny, truly elegant look. In addition to the spectacular gloss, the lacquer protects the basket from moisture and mechanical damage.
Almost any of the building varnishes is suitable for processing the basket. However, preference should be given to natural varnishes. For indoor or outdoor work - not so important.

For use varnish it is necessary to pour into some container (jar, cut bottom of the bottle). Basket processing is carried out with a brush of medium width. Then, hard-to-reach areas should be polished with a thinner brush.

It is important to note that only the handle, the hoop, the outer sides and the bottom of the basket are varnished. Internal surfaces are not varnished! This is necessary so that the vine continues to dry unhindered. The drying process will gradually continue over 2-3 months until the basket reaches its minimum weight and maximum strength. The basket is usually dried at room temperature, in a dry room. Do not try to speed up the drying of the vine with the help of heaters - the varnish may crack, and the vine may warp. Natural drying is what you need. Moreover, it will be possible to use the basket as soon as the varnish dries (2-3 days). It will just be a little heavy at first. But the moisture will go away and the basket will acquire the optimal weight.

Vine coloring used to enhance the natural color of wood, leveling it with uneven coloring, giving a new color to the surface, for which dyes, pigments and mordants are used. Coloring can not only change the appearance of the product, but also protect it from the harmful effects of precipitation, sunlight, and to some extent prevent aging.

Dyes are soluble organic dyes of natural origin or synthetic. Dyes must be lightfast, have a bright color, high ability to penetrate deep into the wood (dispersion), not veil the wood texture and easily dissolve in water, alcohol, acetone and other organic solvents.

wood, including willow weaving rods, can be dyed in any color and give ordinary willow twigs or willow ribbons the color of a more valuable species of wood. In addition to painting in any color and imitation, there is gilding, silvering, bronzing and other types of finishes. However, not all trees perceive dyeing in the same way. Thus, soft and loose rocks are more difficult to stain than hard ones. Coloring can be light and weak, dark and thick.

Each tree has its own natural color, and the rods or ribbons prepared in advance darken, acquiring different shades over time, which even depend on where the material is stored. The purity and evenness of the color is very dependent on preliminary preparation of rods and their cleaning. Therefore, before proceeding with painting, it is necessary to carefully process, polish the twigs or ribbons prepared for weaving with fine-grained emery sandpaper.

As natural dyes decoctions from leaves, flowers and fruits of plants have long been used, for example, a decoction of walnut peel - nut stain; decoctions of coffee, tea, saffron flowers, etc.

Synthetic dyes are complex organic substances that are obtained from coal tar. They are divided into direct, basic, nigrous, acid, etc. In furniture production, acid dyes are mainly used. They paint the wood in bright, clean tones and have satisfactory light fastness. Acid dyes dissolve well in water, they can be mixed with each other. The chemical industry produces ready-made mixed dyes for wood under numbers, the most widely used of which are: reddish-brown No. 3 and 4 - for coloring in the tone of mahogany, light brown - No. 5, 6, 7, 16, 17 - for coloring in light walnut tone, dark brown No. 8, 9, 15 - for coloring in dark walnut tone.

Water soluble dyes used in the form of solutions of 1 - 4% concentration. To soften the hardness of the water, 0.1% soda ash is added. Water to dissolve the dye is heated to a temperature of 80 - 95 degrees Celsius. After the complete solvent of the dye, the solution is cooled to 30 - 40 degrees and filtered through four layers of gauze. To get an even and deep staining of wood, it is recommended to introduce 2 - 4% ammonia into the solution.

From alcohol-soluble dye th apply red light fast No. 32, red-brown No. 33 and hazel brown light fast No. 34. They are intended for dyeing wood and tinting furniture varnishes. They are used in the form of 0.1 - 0.5% solutions in ethyl alcohol.

Of the other dyes for coloring wood used nigrosine- black dye. Alcohol-soluble nigrosine is light-resistant and is used for coloring varnishes and varnishes. Water-soluble nigrosine has low light resistance and is used for dyeing wood.

Mordants- these are some inorganic salts and bases that enter into chemical interaction with tannins contained in wood, resulting in the formation of colored compounds. Rocks that do not contain tannins can also be stained with mordants if they are pre-treated with substances such as oak tanning extract, catechol, pyrogallol. Potassium salts are used as mordants - chromic acid and permanganate; iron salts - chloride and sulfate; aluminum-potassium alum; ammonia, etc. Chromium, manganese and copper salts, as well as ammonia, give brown and yellow-brown colors on wood, iron salts give bluish-gray and black colors.

Mordants are used in the form of 0.5 - 5% aqueous solutions. The coloring is durable, water and light resistant, the texture of the wood is not veiled, but manifested. The disadvantage of mordants as coloring agents is the limited number of color tones obtained, as well as the dependence of the color tone on fluctuations in the chemical composition of wood (tannin content), so the results obtained on one product may not be reproducible on another. Mordants are used only in individual production, in the restoration of furniture, etc.

Staining of wood can be superficial or deep, carried out by the method of deep impregnation. Deep impregnation method often used to change the color of wood.

When finishing parts or products in assembled form, apply surface staining, in which the dye penetrates the wood shallowly - to a depth of 0.1 - 0.2 mm.

I got my first experience as a restorer at the age of ten. In summer. In the country. We had a lot of beds - nine acres. The unfortunate strawberries and dill begged for watering and weeding. So that I would not mess around under my feet, they put out a decrepit wicker chair for me, gave me a boring beige paint with a brush, and left.

The chair had to be thrown away. Not because it groaned and threatened to fall apart. After my labors, it looked like a giant collapsed dumpling. Weaving was not visible - read all the empty holes clogged with paint. This was a shame to keep even behind the house. They said “thank you” to me, and a few days later I saw our chair in the country's garbage dump.

Do you think that old wicker furniture can only be spoiled in childhood? But no! It is enough to take up the brush for the first time. How to renew furniture so that it does not resemble a star after an unsuccessful plastic surgery? Follow these simple tips and you'll be fine!

Step one: pick up a weapon

A can of paint and a half-dead paintbrush are a lot for a schoolboy who wants to be occupied with at least something, but not enough for a novice restorer. So, what do you need to paint wicker furniture? Head to the closet and get:

A solution of warm water and vinegar
- sponge
- sandpaper
- sodium orthophosphate (if necessary)
- primer (similar in color to the selected paint)
- spray paint (aerosol)
- small paint brush
- clean cloth

Step two: clean

Cleaning is tedious, difficult and uninteresting. But necessary. Especially if the wicker tables and chairs are so shabby and dirty that they resemble the ghosts of the Middle Ages. This is where you need a solution of warm water and vinegar. We will use them to clean stains and remove mold from the surface of the furniture.

Step three: three

Expelling old stains and nasty mold is only half the battle. Furniture needs to be prepared for painting. At this stage, sandpaper will come in handy. We will rub and sand the surface with it until it becomes even.

Step 4: Clean up tough stains

Sometimes mold and dirt don't give up. They bite into the vine or rattan with the tenacity of marine stuck. Vinegar solution will not help here. And sodium phosphate - for sure! This caustic white salt expels "eternal" stains and mold pockets in a minute. Sodium orthophosphate can be purchased at any hardware or paint store.

Step five: prime

Priming is a simple process that everyone tends to skip. It is hopelessly boring, like descriptions of nature in novels. But everything boring is very important. Therefore, it will have to be primed. The primer will help the fresh paint adhere to the surface and give the finished job a professional look. To dry the treated furniture, leave it for a day.

Step six: paint

Yes, yes, if painting is taken seriously, spray (and not some kind of drying oil!) Will be fifth in line - after vinegar, sandpaper, phosphate and a primer. Place the furniture on a clean cloth, and keep the paint container at some distance from the surface to be painted. Apply the composition evenly, change the direction of movement and do not stop so that the paint stream is not concentrated in one point.

Spray paint is less thick than traditional spray paint, so don't spray it too thick or it will form droplets on the surface that will drip down and ruin your work. It is better to paint hard-to-reach areas with a thin paint brush.

Step seven: dry

The seventh step is passive but necessary. Take the painted furniture to a well-ventilated area and leave it alone for a day to dry. If paint gaps become visible after drying, repeat step number 6.

Painting wicker furniture is easy. But - to be honest - it bears little resemblance to entertainment. It is not enough to pull out a table or bench into the yard and wave around with a coloring aerosol. You will have to follow the instructions and sequence of actions. However, if you don’t like strict regulations, do it easier - throw a blanket or a colored pillow on a decrepit willow chair. A couple of summer seasons are provided for him.

May 4, 2011 T. M. Fisanovich Updated on July 5, 2012

Primer material

Varnishing finished products

PREPARATION OF SOME DYE SOLUTIONS

Red colors

blue colors

Yellow

Green color

Black color

purple coloring

FAKE UNDER MORE VALUABLE SPECIES OF WOOD

fake mahogany

fake rosewood

Fake old oak

Fake walnut

Page 3 of 17

Coloring material for weaving

Staining can change, enhance or even out the color if the surface of the material does not have the same color. Staining is also used to give rods or ribbons the color of valuable wood. To do this, you can use various natural and synthetic dyes, stains and mordants.

Natural dyes can be obtained by preparing decoctions based on plants.

Inorganic salts and preparations prepared on their basis are mordants and interact well with wood tannins. The more tannins in the wood, the stronger and faster the color change will occur. If the amount of tannins is low, treat the material with tanning oak extract, pyrogallol or catechol before applying the stain.

Chromate and permanganate salts of potassium, chloride and sulfate salts of iron, alum and ammonia are very popular. For staining, prepare a weak solution of the drug: from 0.5 g to 5 g per 100 ml of water.

After processing the wood material with aqueous solutions, a pile may rise, which must be smoothed out with fine-grained emery cloth.

The harder and stronger the wood of the rods, the easier it is to paint, the more even the color is. If you want to dye the material dark, choose the darkest rods and ribbons initially, because then you will need less paint. Light material can be chosen for coloring, both in light and dark colors. Just keep in mind: the greater the difference in color, the greater the likelihood of uneven coloring.

As mentioned above, before painting, it is necessary to process the material with an emery cloth. Remove sawdust with a brush or a dry cotton swab (due to the habit of brushing off dust with your hand, you can leave an oil mark on the surfaces).

You need to know: only a few dyes allow coloring in a cold way, while most require heating. Coloring can be done only dry material. To paint the material in the desired color, you will have to use one of three methods: soak, paint with a brush or soak with a sponge.

When soaking, the material is well stained, a sufficiently deep and saturated color is obtained. If you apply the coloring composition with a sponge, it takes more time and attention, because in this case the material must be wetted at least 3 times. A brush can only smooth out all the imperfections that are obtained when staining with a sponge.