Dynamic backlight for Philips TV. Dynamic TV backlight

Philips in 2007 patented an incredibly simple, but without exaggeration, amazing TV backlight technology. With this adaptive backlight, less eye fatigue when viewing in the dark, increased presence, wider display area, etc. Ambilight is applicable not only to video and photo content, but also to games. Ambilight has become the hallmark of Philips TVs. Since then, Philips has been closely vigilant so that none of the major manufacturers would dare to encroach on the sacred by creating something like that. Probably, this technology can be licensed, but the conditions are outrageous, and other market players are not particularly eager to do this. Small companies also tried (and now there are companies that do it) to introduce similar technology in the form of separate kits, but the Philips car was inevitable. So, in the best case, if the company does not somehow renew the patent or its derivative, other manufacturers will only be able to release something similar in 2027.

But for us, ordinary consumers, this punishment does not apply. We are free for ourselves to do what we deem necessary. Today I will tell you in detail how to make an adaptive backlight for a TV or monitor like Philips Ambilight (hereinafter simply Ambilight). For some, the article will not contain anything new in itself, tk. There are dozens of such projects, and hundreds of articles have been written in different languages, and there are thousands of people who have already done this for themselves. But for many, this can all be very interesting. You don't need any special skills. Only basic knowledge of physics for grade 8 high school. Well, and quite a bit of wire soldering.

To make you better understand what I am talking about, I will give my example of what happened. The real costs for TV 42 "are about 1000 rubles and 2 hours of work.

The video does not convey all the sensations and effect in full, but the children sat with their mouths open for the first time.

Possible implementation options

There are several options for implementing Ambilight. They depend on the video source.

The cheapest, simplest and most effective option is a Windows PC, Mac OS X or Linux PC as a signal source. Nowadays, Atom-based Windows boxes are very common, which cost from $ 70. They are all perfect for the Ambilight implementation. For several years now I have been using various Windows boxes (in a TV cabinet) as a media player, wrote a small handful of reviews and consider them to be the best TV boxes for media content. The hardware implementation of this option is the same for all the listed operating systems. It is about this option that I will talk about in the article... The software part will be related to the Windows system, AmbiBox will act as a universal control program. With Mac OS X and Linux can be used.

The second option is that the signal source is an Android-based media attachment, of which there are also a huge number. This option is the most problematic. First, the highlighting will only work in the Kodi media combine (and offshoots of that project). Secondly, in the overwhelming majority of cases, everything works only with disabled hardware video decoding, which is unacceptable for most boxes. The hardware implementation of the project also imposes certain requirements. I will not touch on it, but if something interests specific, then I will try to answer in the comments.

The third option is a source-independent solution. This is the most expensive, but absolutely universal solution. the signal is taken directly from the HDMI cable. For it, you need a sufficiently powerful microcomputer (like Raspberry Pi), HDMI splitter (splitter), HDMI-RCA AV converter, USB 2.0 analog video capture device. Only with this option you can be guaranteed to use Ambilight with any TV-set / receiver, Android-boxes, Apple TV, game consoles (for example, Xbox one, PlayStation 4) and other devices that have HDMI output. For the variant with support for 1080p60, the cost of components (without LED strip) will be about $ 70, with support for 2160p60 - about $ 100. This option is very interesting, but you need to write a separate article on it.

Hardware part

To implement, you will need three main components: a controllable RGB LED strip, a power supply, an Arduino microcomputer.

First, a few explanations.

WS2811 is a three-channel channel controller / driver (IC) for RGB LEDs with one-wire control (addressable to an arbitrary LED). The WS2812B is an RGB LED in the SMD 5050 package, which already has a built-in WS2811 controller.

LED strips suitable for the project are called WS2811 or WS2812B for simplicity.

WS2812B tape is a tape on which WS2812B LEDs are placed in series. The tape operates with a voltage of 5 V. There are tapes with different LED densities. Usually these are: 144, 90, 74, 60, 30 per meter. There are different degrees of protection. Most often these are: IP20-30 (protection against the ingress of solid particles), IP65 (protection against dust and water jets), IP67 (protection against dust and protection during partial or short-term immersion in water to a depth of 1 m). Substrate in black and white.

Here's an example of such a tape:

WS2811 tape is a tape on which the WS2811 controller and some kind of RGB LED are placed in series. There are options for 5 V and 12 V. The density and protection are similar to the previous option.

Here's an example of such a tape:

There are also WS2811 "strips" with large and powerful LEDs, as in the photo below. They are also suitable for implementing Ambilight for some huge panel.

Which tape to choose, WS2812B and WS2811?

An important factor is the feed of the tape, which I will discuss a little later.

If you have a suitable power supply unit at home (often power supplies remain from old or damaged equipment at home), then choose a tape based on the voltage of the power supply unit, i.e. 5V - WS2812B, 12V - WS2811. In this case, you will simply save money.

From myself I can give a recommendation. If the total number of LEDs in the system is no more than 120, then WS2812B. If more than 120, then WS2811 with an operating voltage of 12 V. Why this is so, you will understand when it comes to connecting the tape to the power supply.

What level of tape protection should I choose?

For most, IP65 is suitable, because on one side it is coated with "silicone" (epoxy resin) and on the other there is a 3M self-adhesive surface. This tape is convenient to mount on a TV or monitor and is convenient to wipe off dust.

What density of LEDs should you choose?

For the project, tapes with a density of 30 to 60 LEDs per meter are suitable (of course, 144 is possible, no one forbids). The higher the density, the higher the Ambilight resolution (number of zones) and the higher the maximum overall brightness. But it should be borne in mind that the more LEDs in the project, the more complex the tape power circuit will be arranged, and a more powerful power supply will be needed. The maximum number of LEDs in a project is 300.

Buying tape

If your TV or monitor is hanging on a wall and all 4 sides have a lot of free space side by side, then the tape is best placed at the back around the perimeter on all 4 sides for maximum effect. If your TV or monitor is installed on a stand, or there is little free space at the bottom, then the tape should be placed on the back on 3 sides (i.e. the bottom without tape).

For myself, I chose a white WS2812B IP65 tape with 30 LEDs per meter. I already had a suitable 5V power supply. I decided whether 60 or 30 LEDs per meter, but chose the latter after reviewing the video with ready-made examples of implementation - the brightness and resolution suited me, and the power is easier to organize, less wires. There is a huge amount of WS2812B tapes on Aliexpress. I ordered 5 meters for $ 16. For my TV (42 ", 3 sides), I needed only 2 meters, that is, I could buy it for $ 10, the remaining three meters for a friend. Prices often change from sellers, there are many offers, so just choose a cheap lot on Aliexpress with a high rating (search keywords - WS2812B IP65 or WS2811 12V IP65).

Buying a power supply for tape

The power supply unit is selected according to power and voltage. For WS2812B - voltage 5 V. For WS2811 - 5 or 12 V. Maximum power consumption of one WS2812B LED is 0.3 W. For WS2811 in most cases it is the same. Those. the power of the power supply must be at least N * 0.3 W, where N is the number of LEDs in the project.

For example, you have a 42 "TV, you settled on a WS2812B tape with 30 LEDs per meter, you need 3 meters of tape on all 4 sides. You will need a 5 V power supply with a maximum power of 0.3 * 30 * 3 \u003d 27 W , i.e. 5 V / 6 A. In my implementation, only 3 sides are used, a total of 60 LEDs (to be precise, 57) - power from 18 W, i.e. 5 V / 4 A.

I have had an ORICO CSA-5U (8 A) multi-port USB charger idle for a long time, left over from the old review. The power of the ports is parallel to it (this is critically important), this charger is ideal for me as a power supply unit, since I will connect the tape through 2 parallel connections (explanations will be a little later in the article).

If I didn’t have this memory, I would have chosen (there is information that it is in this PSU that the internals are put at 2.5 A, so you need to study this issue in more detail from the seller, or look at other models).

Buying a microcomputer

Ambilight will be controlled by the Arduino microcomputer. Arduino Nano on Aliexpress costs about apiece.

Costs for my version (for TV 42 "):

$ 10 - 2 meters WS2812B IP65 (30 LEDs per meter)
$ 4 - power supply 5 V / 4 A (I did not spend money on a power supply unit, I quote the cost for clarity)
$ 2.5 - Arduino Nano
-----------
16,5$ or 1000 rubles

Hardware implementation

The most important thing is to properly organize the feed of the tape. The tape is long, the voltage sags at high current, especially at 5 V. Most of the problems that arise for those who make themselves Ambilight, are connected precisely with the power supply. I use the rule - you need to make a separate power supply for every 10 W of maximum power consumption at 5 V and 25 W of power consumption at 12 V. The length of the power supply (from the power supply to the tape itself) should be minimal (no margin), especially at 5 IN.

The general connection diagram is as follows (the diagram shows the power connection for my version):

Power is supplied to the tape from both ends - two parallel connections. For example, if I made the backlight on all 4 sides, and the tape was 60 LEDs per meter (i.e., the maximum power is 54 W), then I would make the following power supply:

The supply wires must be used appropriate, the smaller the gauge (AWG), the better, so that they are sufficient for the calculated current strength.

There are two pins going to the Arduino from the tape. GND, which needs to be connected to the corresponding pin on the Arduino. And DATA, which needs to be connected to the sixth digital pin through a 300-550 Ohm resistor (preferably 470 Ohm). If you do not have a resistor, then in most cases everything will work fine without it, but it is better to have one. A resistor can be bought for a couple of kopecks at any radio store. The Arduino microcomputer itself can be placed in any convenient case, many use the Kinder surprise egg for this. The Arduino should be placed as close to the tape as possible so that the DATA leads are as short as possible.

Soldering wires to tape is simple. The main rule is that the time of contact with the soldering iron should be minimal, you cannot "poke around" with a soldering iron.

In my case, it turned out like this:

Two black high-quality USB cables went for power, and a white one for connecting to a computer. I ran out of white heat shrink tubing, I used red ones. Not so “pretty”, but it suits me (it's still hidden behind TV).

An important question is how to bend the tape at right angles? If you have a 60 LED strip, then the strip needs to be cut and connected with short wires (by placing it all in a heat shrink tube). You can buy special angled connectors for three pins for LED strips (4 pins in the picture, just for example):

If you have a 30 LED strip, then the distance between the LEDs is large, you can easily make a corner without cutting. Remove a piece of "silicone" coating, isolate (you can even use "tape") the contact pad and bend it according to the scheme:

I cut off a piece of tape to practice. The main thing is not to overdo it - they slightly bent it once and that's it. You do not need to bend here and there, you do not need to squeeze the bend line strongly.

Here is the rear view of the TV, all the wires through the hole go into the cabinet:

Software part

This is the simplest.

We connect the Arduino microcomputer via USB. Driver ( serial interface CH340) will install automatically. If this did not happen, then in the Arduino IDE folder there is a Drivers folder with everything you need.

Launch Arduino IDE and open the Adalight.ino file.

We change the number of LEDs in the code. I have 57.

Tools\u003e Board\u003e Arduino nano
Tools\u003e Port\u003e Select COM port (there will be the desired option)

Press the button "Download":

The program will inform you when the download is complete (this is literally a couple of seconds).

Done. You need to disconnect the Arduino from USB and reconnect. The ribbon will light up sequentially in red, green and blue - the Arduino has activated and is ready to work.

Download and install the program. In the program, click "More settings" and specify the device - Adalight, COM port and the number of LEDs. Select the number of frames to capture (up to 60).

Next, click Show Capture Zones\u003e Zone Configuration Wizard. Select your ribbon configuration.

Click Apply and Save Settings. This concludes the basic settings. Then you can experiment with the size of the capture zones, make color correction of the tape, etc. The program has many different settings.

To activate a profile, just double-click on the corresponding icon (AmbiBox profiles) in the Windows notification area. The tape will immediately light up. It also turns off by double clicking.

That's basically it. You saw the result at the beginning of the article. Nothing complicated, cheap and great. I'm sure you will do better, so share your crafts in the comments.

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Ambilight is technology additional background illumination of Philips TVs. This technology is implemented by embedding LEDs on the back of the TV, as a rule, these are modern Philips smart TVs. Technology background ambilight is dynamic, which means that when you watch a video with the backlight on, the background around the TV will change the color background depending on the color gamut broadcast on the TV display. Today, Ambilight technology has spanned five generations, evolving by improving the number of colors displayed and the possible effects.

1. the generation of TVs was equipped with simple lamp backlighting.
2. the generation of TVs with Ambilight received two-channel backlighting. The backlight color is referenced to the base color on the screen.
3. the generation was named Ambilight Surround, it is a three-channel illumination, characterized by independent lamps and three directing zones: right, left and top.
4. generation - Ambilight Full Surround, background lighting is directed to four zones: top, bottom, left and right. Added a screen-panel to the TV body, this allowed to achieve a softer background.
5. generation - Ambilight Spectra - is able to create surround backlighting, thanks to 126 LEDs and a powerful processor that analyzes the picture on the screen, as well as movement, creating a dynamic background projection, expanding the display.

Ambilight technology operates on such characteristics as: color, brightness, contrast, direction of illumination, intensity and rate of change of backlight.

For maximum effect, you need to pre-configure the TV by entering the menu and selecting the "Wall Color" section to specify the color of your wall behind the TV. Also, an important factor is the distance at which the TV is from the wall, Philips recommends leaving 25 centimeters.

If desired, in standby mode, you can use Lounge light Is an Ambilight feature that allows you to use the TV backlight as a dimmed room light.

The backlight works from the USB connector of the TV, turns on / off with the TV and the brightness can be adjusted.

For manufacturing you will need:
- White LED strip 12-24 volts (color tone to taste);
- Increasing voltage module MT3608 (costs 29r in China);
- USB "plug";
- few wires;
- soldering accessories;
- Voltmeter;
- Ammeter;
- every little thing.

Manufacturing process

First, we measure the size of the TV and "figure out" how you can place the tape, cut off the required amount.

Solder the resulting 4 pieces of tape with flexible wires. Be sure to observe the polarity.

The backlight will be connected from the USB connector of the TV, but there is only 5V and this is not enough for us. LED strips usually need 12 or 24V to work. Therefore, we use the MT3608 step-up voltage module, it will increase the voltage from 5 to 12V. We solder the wires from the USB "plug" to the module input (VIn).

We sing along the tape to the output of the module.

In principle, it should already work \u003d)
To control the brightness, I glued a "swivel" with a piece of a match ("bum option") to the variable voltage regulating resistor ("homeless option"), thanks to which the resistor can be turned backwards only half a turn. The extreme positions will correspond to the minimum and maximum brightness, you select them yourself. (the yellow thing on the board is a tantalum capacitor, it reduces the voltage ripple at the output and it is unnecessary, the ripple is so minimal).

After everything is assembled, it is imperative to check the current consumed by the circuit at maximum brightness, for this you can use a USB voltammeter or, as in my case laboratory unit nutrition. The voltage on the tape should not be higher than the rated voltage.

The current should not exceed the maximum allowable for the connector.

After all the checks, we glue the tape and glue the module onto the adhesive tape.

All is ready! enjoy

Finally

It is not necessary to do exactly as I did and I did not invent the wheel.

You can make everything neater and more beautiful

The backlight does not overheat and does not blink, the conversion frequency is about 1.2 MHz

I am not responsible for a broken TV and work injuries, be prudent and careful.

You can buy a 5V LED strip and refuse to step up the voltage of the module.

You can use RGB tape + a remote control module if you want a remote control and special effects, but this will quickly get bored.

If the power of the USB connector is not enough, then you need to connect a 5-volt relay instead of the tape and through it turn on / off, together with the TV, not only the backlight, but also any other equipment included in the outlet, for example, acoustics.

TV, as you know, is not recommended to watch in complete darkness for the safety of vision. And in the overhead light - I don't like it - it's too bright. When watching TV, I turn on the floor lamp and everything seems to be fine, but I wanted to organize the backlighting of the corner where the TV is. And so that she does not shine in the eyes. Well, like one well-known company - Ambilight technology.
For this purpose, I purchased a warm white LED strip powered by USB. I didn't want to bother with a separate on-off of this very backlight. Well, why didn't I take the RGB tape - I am quite satisfied with the white mono light and I don't need another remote control on the sofa. Well, here, as they say, who what - choose for yourself.
The ribbon came in a bag, wound on a spool, total weight - 45 grams.


I ordered the length of the tape - 2m. I decided to place it on three sides (except the bottom) of a 46-inch TV. I think this will be enough for normal backlighting.
The tape shines quite brightly from the USB connector



As you can see, the tape consists of a base with LEDs and resistors applied to it. On the reverse side - double-sided tape.


There are 120 LEDs on two meters.


I started by trying on


I distributed these 120 diodes as follows: top - 60 pieces, right and left - 30 each.


Since bending the tape normally and beautifully at 90 degrees at the corners of the TV will not work well, I cut it into these same 3 parts. Fortunately, the places where you can cut are indicated (see photo above).
I applied the tape to the selected and previously degreased places. Then, taking precautions, I soldered these parts


It remains only to connect the structure to the standard USB port of the TV


And - this is what I wanted, rear view


And now - in front


Well, a little on top, just in case


As planned - the backlight turns on when the TV is turned on and turns off with it. No unnecessary gestures.
Everything about everything, without haste, took about an hour, including cleaning the workplace and tools.
I "drove" the homemade product a little - the diodes practically did not heat up, you cannot feel it with your finger. There are doubts about the reliability of the complete scotch tape, I don't know how it is? If necessary, I think it will not be difficult to replace it with something stronger (I mean good scotch tape).
Something like that. Good luck to all.

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