How to make a greenhouse with your own hands. Do-it-yourself greenhouse fantasy or reality? Fixing the film on the greenhouse

Hello!

There is very little time left when the full gardening season begins. Seedlings have already been planted, the first shoots are appearing. And soon it will have to be planted on its site. Something is planted in open ground, and something in greenhouses.

But, before you plant your seedlings in a greenhouse, you must have it)). You can, of course, buy a greenhouse in the store, but if you are ready to make it yourself, then in this article we will consider the most common options for its manufacture.

Select the greenhouse or project you are interested in:

Before building a greenhouse, you need to determine for yourself some points. First, and this is the most important thing, what will grow in the greenhouse. This depends on the size of your building. You can put a large greenhouse, or you can make greenhouses. Next, choose the place where the greenhouse will be located. And, lastly, the material from which we will make it. The most common material is wood. However, with the advent of various types of building materials, a greenhouse can also be made from plastic pipes, polycarbonate, etc.

According to the shape of the roof, greenhouses are arched, single-pitched and gable. The most common in garden plots are gable greenhouses. This shape of the roof gives good illumination.

Consider the option of a greenhouse, which is made of wood. Wood is the best, most profitable and affordable material. Of course, it is also best influenced by the environment. Therefore, when building a greenhouse, it is necessary to take this factor into account and choose the material for your construction, preferably from hardwood, as well as process all the elements and parts of the greenhouse with various preservatives.

On a note:

Which tree species are considered hard and which are soft? The hardwoods are most of the deciduous trees, and of the conifers, larch and swamp cypress. Soft breeds are pine, spruce, alder, linden, aspen.

If you have a temporary greenhouse, then you can use inexpensive soft breeds and practically do not spend money on processing them.

If you put the greenhouse for a long time, then, in addition to suitable wood, you will need to prepare the foundation. Foundations for greenhouses are different. You can choose the most suitable one for you, depending on the design of your greenhouse.

The foundation is made of timber or railway sleepers.We are preparing a trench in which we lay a bar or sleeper on the roofing. Everything is connected with metal brackets. After that, the frame is already installed.

If strong winds prevail in your area, then a columnar foundation will suit you. The concrete base is laid deep enough to help keep the greenhouse in place even if a hurricane hits.To build such a foundation, pipes with a diameter of 20 cm or more will be needed, which must be installed in the ground below the freezing line (from 90 cm to 1.2 m.). If your greenhouse has dimensions of 3x6 m (usually this is the standard), then you will need to put 6 poles. Bars are placed on them and connected to each other and to the frame in the same way as in the previous method.

Block foundation. A trench is dug around the perimeter of your greenhouse, in which concrete blocks are laid on a gravel and sand cushion. To fix them, cement mortar is used. And already on top of these blocks a frame of large cross-section bars is attached

The strip foundation is placed for large greenhouses, as it can withstand heavy loads. Such a foundation is a concrete pad with a thickness of 30 to 50 cm, poured into a shallow trench. The service life of such a foundation is quite large, so greenhouses can be changed on it if necessary.

After the foundation is ready, we proceed to the assembly of the greenhouse frame. There are enough options. As mentioned earlier, there are arched, and one, and gable greenhouses. It is important to choose one that will meet your requirements and the requirements of the area where you will put it. First of all, it all depends on what you are going to grow in the greenhouse, how long it will serve you.

The most optimal (however, standard, found in most gardeners) rectangular greenhouse measuring 3x6 m., With a gable roof. Such a greenhouse is most often covered with plastic wrap. Many, however, use polycarbonate. But it depends on the possibilities. Polyethylene, of course, will cost less. However, it will have to be changed every season.

It is best to start assembling the frame of the future greenhouse from the assembly of individual sections located parallel to the front and rear walls of the greenhouse. The number of such sections depends on the length of the structure, as well as on the required reliability (the more sections, the less sagging and more stability).

If you use polycarbonate to cover the greenhouse, then the number of sections will depend on the width of this cover (210 cm). Sections in this case, for example, can be located at a distance of 0.5-1 m from each other. The dimensions of the sections themselves will be as follows: 1.5-1.6 m for the side walls, 3-meter bars for connecting the upper part and 1.75 m bars for the roof slopes. However, you can choose the size yourself.

Below are several schemes from which you can choose the most suitable for yourself. For example, it was these schemes that interested me (why I took them). But I want to make one for myself on the basis of all these schemes, according to which I will build my greenhouse.

The figure above shows not only the scheme of the greenhouse, but also the list of materials needed for its construction, as well as their size and consumption. This list is intended for standard sizes of 6x2.8 m, however, based on these data, you can calculate the amount of material needed for your size.

Stages of greenhouse construction

As you can see, this is a standard trapezoidal greenhouse in the form of a house (with a gable roof). From one of the ends there will be a door (the back of the picture).

We start with the installation of the carrier beam. As a rule, it is taken for this purpose somewhat wider than the one from which the frame is made. We treat with an antiseptic. This beam is attached to the foundation with the help of metal, anchor bolts, reinforcement.

The main thing to remember is that the basis of the greenhouse should be exactly a solid beam, and not fastened segments. The stability of the greenhouse depends on this.

So, we attached the base to the foundation, go to the frame itself, and start making it from the walls.

The figure below shows a diagram of a finished wall measuring 5.4 x 1.5 m. There are two such walls, and two end ones. In this diagram, the beam is fastened with grooves. To fasten other elements of the frame, you will need self-tapping screws, a metal profile, a corner, and clamps.

Next, we move on to installing the rafters. There can be any number of them, but the more, the better the strength and reliability of the roof, as well as. It is easier to attach the cover material. We also make grooves in the rafters (see picture).

There is such a thing as a rafter leg. The size of this leg depends on the height of the person. If your height is average, then the length of the rafter leg is 1.27 m, and if you are tall, then 1.35 cm.

In general, the length of the rafter leg is directly related to the width of the covering material: the width of the sleeve of the polyethylene film is 3 m, and when unfolded it is 6 m. Based on this, the sum of the lengths of two rafter legs and two racks should be about 5.8 m. As a result By using 6m x 6m plastic wrap, you will avoid extra pieces that go to waste.

The number of rafters usually corresponds to the number of racks.

After the rafters are attached to the racks of the side walls, we proceed to install the roof ridge (attached to the upper groove of the rafters) and wind boards (attached to the side grooves of the rafters). On the general scheme of the greenhouse (first picture), these boards are highlighted in dark color. These three elements of the greenhouse should be made only from solid material.

And, finally, when everything is ready, we install a door from the end, and here, or in the opposite end, a window.

That, perhaps, is all about installing a greenhouse. Now it can be covered with covering material. Previously, polyethylene, sometimes glass, served as a covering material. Now they use polycarbonate.

Greenhouse made of polycarbonate and plastic pipes. We do it ourselves

With the development of technology, new materials for construction have appeared. Plastic pipes are now quite actively used in the construction of greenhouses. It should be noted that I make small greenhouses in my garden only from such pipes. Pipes are of the following types: PVC, polypropylene and metal-plastic.

PVC pipes are the cheapest, but they are all fairly easy to install. Therefore, the choice of pipes is up to you. The only thing I want to note is that metal-plastic is somewhat more reliable.

In addition, using plastic pipes, you can already give any shape to your greenhouse (which is difficult to do in a wooden one).

Before you start building a greenhouse, you, as in the case of a wooden one, choose what you will plant in it, the place where it will stand. Based on this, you are preparing a drawing of the greenhouse in order to purchase required amount material.

Below is an approximate drawing of a diagram of such a greenhouse with mounting options.

Based on this, we select the right amount of material. For the above scheme, the material consumption will be as follows (prices may vary):

After that, you decide whether your greenhouse will be permanent, or temporary (portable). If you put it for a long time, then it is best to make a strip or column foundation under it. If you put it without a foundation, then you need to dig in metal pins. They should protrude 30 centimeters above the ground. They will need to be put on the frame of the greenhouse. To do this, we put pipes on these pins. If the height of the greenhouse is 4 meters, then the length of the dressed pipe will be 6 meters. We bend the pipe, forming an arc and put it on the pins of the opposite side.

To fix the installed arcs among themselves, we take a pipe of the length that the greenhouse is planned to be. If there is no pipe of this length, then we connect two pipes to each other. After that, we place it in the center of the arcs and fix it with clamps.

The frame is assembled. Now we collect the coating for which we use polycarbonate. We select sheets with a thickness of at least 4 mm. Their size will be 2.1x6 m.

We fasten these sheets with an overlap. Joints can be sealed with special tape. We connect the sheets with thermal washers or self-tapping screws with wide caps.

Now it remains for us to attach polycarbonate sheets to the greenhouse.

Polycarbonate is a fairly flexible material. This allows you to cut and install it without any effort. In addition, polycarbonate attracts with its durability and resistance to atmospheric adversity.

Standard sheets for greenhouses are 6 and 8 mm, for greenhouses - 4 mm, and for a winter greenhouse - 10 mm.

To attach polycarbonate to the frame, you can use the so-called plastic earrings or aluminum brackets. The figure below shows a diagram of such an attachment.

Another option for mounting polycarbonate is the use of profiles. Before attaching the screws to the metal frame, we pre-drill holes, after which we attach the polycarbonate to the screws. Self-tapping screws with thermal washers are best, as they have a wide area of ​​\u200b\u200bsupport, and, in addition, this will make it possible to keep the carbonate intact and prevent condensation from appearing.

The figure below shows self-tapping screws for fixing polycarbonate.

A simple greenhouse made of window frames. How to build with your own hands?

Another version of the greenhouse, which can often be seen in garden plots, is a greenhouse made of window frames. It is also a simple and inexpensive project. However, it is good if you have enough of these same frames. If you have frames with glass, then you install a glass greenhouse. If your frames are empty, then you, after installing it, cover the frames with plastic wrap.

So, before we install the greenhouse, we prepare the foundation for it. On it we install a wooden frame made of timber or boards. It is best to use a beam 50X50 mm, and a board 40 mm thick.

The frame consists of racks, upper and lower trim. The lower and upper trims are made from the same boards. Racks are installed from each other at a distance so that a window frame enters between them.

The roof frame must be strong enough. It is better to make a gable roof, with additional supports under the ridge, so that it does not collapse under the weight of snow in winter. It is best to use timber for the roof.

Installation of frames is carried out with nails and screws. Each frame must be fixed both outside and inside, on four sides. If there are gaps between the frames, then they are sealed with mounting foam.

The roof is best made of polycarbonate, or pull a film over it. Thus, your roof will be completely transparent and there will be enough light. But if you are still making it from frames, then it is better to start installing the frames from the roof, and not from the side walls. Otherwise, an accidentally dropped tool or some other material may break the glass.

At the end of the greenhouse we make a door, which is also a frame. So we set up a greenhouse. Now you can use it for its intended purpose.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse from a profile

Another of the modern materials that has become actively used by craftsmen-builders is a profile. The advantage of a profile greenhouse is that both the dimensions and the shape of the greenhouse can be made to your liking.

The figure below shows a diagram of a standard greenhouse from a profile.

To build such a greenhouse, you will need the following tools: metal shears, tape measure, building level and plumb line, screwdriver.

Having drawn up a diagram of the greenhouse, you can begin to assemble it. As described in previous projects, we start with the foundation.

You select the size of the greenhouse based on the size of the polycarbonate that will serve as its cover. You also choose the roof at your discretion: arched, or pitched. It is better to make a pitched house in the form of a house (gable). Then there will be much more lighting.

According to the scheme, you cut the profile into the required size elements. Connect these elements together with metal screws.

Start installing the frame with the guides. We fasten them to the foundation with self-tapping screws. The frame itself consists of sections that are interconnected by a common upper beam. The spacing between sections should be such as to provide sufficient structural rigidity. Basically, it is equal to the width of the polycarbonate sheet divided by 3 or 4.

The assembly of the front and rear walls is similar to the sections. However, they are reinforced by vertical struts. We make an entrance in the front wall. We fasten the door hinges to one of the racks, and from the profile we assemble the door frame, which we also cover with polycarbonate.

When the sections and walls (front and back) are ready, we fasten them to the guides.

We fix polycarbonate in the same way as in the previous version (greenhouse made of pipes and polycarbonate).

That's probably all that concerns the manufacture and installation of greenhouses from the most common and popular materials. I want to wish you good luck in manufacturing, so that there are no unnecessary difficulties, and a good harvest. You can, of course, buy a ready-made greenhouse, but, you see, growing a good crop in a greenhouse assembled with your own hands is much more pleasant.

Greenhouses are the best facilities for growing fruit and horticultural crops on protected ground. By design, it consists of a frame and a coating that transmits light (propylene, glass or film). In addition, the building must have windows, doors and vents for maintenance and ventilation. Also, some walls can be sheathed with boards or lined with bricks for additional protection and insulation.

Do-it-yourself greenhouses from improvised materials are easy to build, but at the same time, such structures have a fairly high functionality and allow you to grow vegetables, fruits and herbs year-round.

How to make a greenhouse at home

Many greenhouse owners are interested in the question of whether it is possible to use a conventional design in the cold season. It should be noted right away that without special equipment for heating and ventilation, a conventional design will not be suitable for growing vegetables and fruits (Figure 1). Based on this, it is worth wondering how to build a greenhouse for the winter cultivation of fresh vegetables and herbs.

Figure 1. Types of winter greenhouses

In general, all greenhouses are built according to the same principle: first they build the foundation, then the frame, after which they proceed to sheathing and installing the necessary equipment. But during the construction of winter types, there are certain features that we will describe below.

Terms

A winter greenhouse can be made both single-sided and double-sided, and the building can both adjoin the house and be at some distance from it. But it should be borne in mind that wall structures are more suitable for small farms, since the wall of the house will protect the structure from the cold and reduce heating costs.

Before construction, you need to choose a site that is as much as possible illuminated by the sun. To do this, it is better to place the building from east to west: this way the plants in it will receive a sufficient amount of light, although lamps for additional lighting will still have to be used. In addition, if cold winds are often observed in your area, you need to provide wind protection: place the room near another building or plant a hedge a few meters from it.

Peculiarities

The construction technology of a winter greenhouse is typical, but still has some features that help to keep warm for the normal growth of crops.

If you are interested in how to make a heated greenhouse with your own hands, be sure to take into account these rules:

• The foundation must be strong and high enough so that the cold from the ground does not penetrate into the building;
• Inside, it is desirable to equip warm beds with a special soil mixture (sand, soddy soil and humus);
• Heating and lighting devices are installed necessarily in order to create an optimal microclimate inside. It is also necessary to install a ventilation system, and heating is best done by stove or gas.

Figure 2. Marking the foundation

At the same time, it is necessary to equip all life support systems with automation so that growing crops in closed ground requires minimal human intervention.

Do-it-yourself greenhouses from improvised materials

The construction of the greenhouse begins with marking the place for the foundation. To do this, take a cord and a few stakes and mark one of the side walls. Having stuck the stake into the ground, measure the required length and pull the cord. After that, with a square, determine the location of the end wall, measure its length and stick another peg. The rest of the stakes are placed according to the same principle, and a cord is pulled between them. Next, we check the corners and measure the diagonals (they should be the same). Detailed instructions for marking and building the foundation are shown in Figure 2.

What covering material is better

It is impossible to build a greenhouse without the correct selection of covering material. Many people prefer to use ordinary polyethylene film for this purpose, but this material is far from the most successful one on the market today.

Figure 3. Types of covering materials: film, glass and polycarbonate

Let's try to figure out which material is better to use as a coating for the frame (Figure 3).

The use of glass is considered a fairly popular way of making cladding. For example, you can make a small greenhouse out of old window frames, but if the greenhouse is large, you will have to order glass for it separately, and they are quite expensive. Despite the high cost, such a construction will serve for a very long time, and the glass itself is not afraid of sudden temperature changes, perfectly withstands the heavy weight of snow and helps maintain a stable temperature inside the building.

Note: A film coating is considered a more economical option, but at the same time it is not durable enough. Conventional film can last only one season, so for more durable buildings it is better to choose a reinforced film that does not need to be replaced within 6-8 years. In this case, it is desirable to fasten the film so that it is not damaged by sharp corners.

The best coating is polycarbonate. This is a lightweight and durable material that allows enough sunlight to pass through, while retaining heat inside the structure. Since it is quite expensive, it is worth buying it only if the room will be used constantly.

Greenhouses: how to make land for planting

The abundance of the crop largely depends on the quality of the soil that is used to grow plants. It is impossible to pour ordinary soil from the garden onto the beds, as it may contain weed seeds and pathogens of dangerous diseases that will destroy the plants.

Note: If it is not possible to prepare a special soil mixture for the greenhouse, and ordinary garden soil will be used for the beds, it is advisable to disinfect it using special preparations (for example, Inta-Vir).

But, if you want to get a really rich harvest, you still have to spend a little time making a suitable soil mixture. The most fertile substrate is considered, which includes one part of peat, humus, soddy land and sawdust. Such soil is quite light and fertile, so additional fertilizer is required only at the stage of direct cultivation of crops. But, as is the case with ordinary garden soil, it is advisable to disinfect the mixture before laying it on the beds.

How to build a greenhouse with your own hands from wood

Depending on the design, greenhouses can be single-slope, gable, tent, arched, wall-mounted, pit, or be part of the house. In addition, they can be stationary (the design is not disassembled) and portable.

Additionally, they are divided according to the type of coating (film and glazed) and the method of heating (heated by the sun or equipment).

When choosing a form, one should take into account the location of the building relative to the parts of the world, other buildings on the territory, as well as the purpose and shading. The optimal location is considered in which the southern part of the horizon is visible from the entrance. To do this, imagine that you are standing with your back to the entrance. When positioned correctly, the sun will travel from east to west in a clockwise direction. The transparent wall should be oriented to the south, as in this case the maximum amount of light will get inside.

Note: The location of the greenhouse on the cardinal points is important only if the walls (all or several) are made of opaque material. If it is completely covered with film or glass, these indicators do not play a decisive role.

If the building is shaded by trees or neighboring buildings (for example, in a small area), its north side is made of an opaque material that will not allow hypothermia inside the building. To improve the reflection of heat and light, the roof is made transparent, and one of the walls is covered with white paint or a reflective screen.

Each type of greenhouse has certain characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.(picture 4):

• Single and double- one of the most popular. They are rectangular, and they can be placed in any part of the site, and the interior space is used almost completely. If a structure of this type is built on a foundation and equipped with heating devices, crops can be grown all year round. The only drawback of one- and two-slope types is the rather complicated construction and the need to purchase a large amount of materials.
• Arched easier to build, but they are not designed for long-term use due to insufficiently strong frame. However, the streamlined shape makes it resistant to gusts of wind, and the condensation that collects inside drips onto the ground, not onto the plants. In addition, it is difficult to grow garden plants in an arched greenhouse (special shelves are equipped for them). Additional costs will be incurred by ventilation equipment, since standard side ventilation is not suitable for this type.
• wall greenhouses and buildings that turn into a residential building are mainly used as winter gardens. They are economically more profitable, since the heat in them is maintained by heating the house. The disadvantage is that additional lighting equipment is required to grow full-fledged plants.
• Pit are single and double. Their main feature is that the side walls are laid out of brick and immersed in the ground. This results in significant savings in heating costs.

Figure 4. The main types of greenhouses: 1 - single-sided, 2 - double-sided, 3 - arched, 4 - wall-mounted

If the greenhouse will be used not only for growing crops, but also as a decor for a personal plot, it can also be made polygonal. But in this case, construction costs increase significantly.

What is needed for this

Building a greenhouse with your own hands from wood is quite simple, because it requires a minimum of knowledge, tools and materials (Figure 5).

A frame is built from wood, which is later sheathed with glass or film. The main condition is to properly prepare and process the wood. The bars that will be used to build the frame are cleaned of dust and dirt, washed with clean water and dried. After that, they need to be cleaned with emery and treated with an antiseptic solution that prevents early decay.

Figure 5. Do-it-yourself wooden greenhouse construction

The bars are fastened together with nails or self-tapping screws, and after the structure is completely ready, it needs to be painted, painting over not only the wood, but also the metal parts.

Where is the best place to place

When planning the location of the greenhouse on the site, you need to take into account the prevailing winds and the movement of the sun. In order for the plants inside the structure to be as much as possible illuminated by the sun, it is better to place it from east to west.

If strong winds are often observed in your area, it is advisable to install the structure near other buildings or large trees. At the same time, too much shading of the structure should not be allowed.

Foundation

When marking the site for the foundation, use the level, since the ground must be absolutely flat. Otherwise, it will be difficult to install the frame, and if its parts can be adjusted and mounted, the structure will be overloaded and the frame may be deformed.

Note: According to the rules, the room should have a slight slope for water flow, but this rule can be ignored when building small structures.

After marking, you can start building the foundation. It must be very durable, because it not only bears the weight of the greenhouse itself, but also protects the plants from cold air and pests. As a rule, ready-made collapsible structures in the kit have materials for the construction of the foundation (beams or pipes). But they are not strong enough and do not protect against frost and rodents. Therefore, it is recommended to lay it out of concrete or brick. The width should be at least 10 cm, and it should be placed below the freezing level of the soil.

For the construction of the foundation, you can also use special blocks. They are hollow inside, so after installation, the inside is poured with concrete. A curb stone laid on a layer of concrete is also used. Foundation construction options are shown in Figure 6.

Figure 6. Options and procedure for building the foundation

If the foundation is high (for example, located at a height of 30 cm from ground level), it will be inconvenient to bring in or carry fertilizer and water inside. In this case, floorings are equipped at the entrance or the door is lowered to the ground level, using the free space for equipping shelves, on which seedlings can later be grown.

Additionally, it is covered with waterproofing material so that heat is retained inside. During construction, care should also be taken to equip a container for draining excess water. It is better to bury such a container in the ground so that it does not occupy the interior space. The drain must be tightly closed so that condensate and water for irrigation do not get into it. Practical recommendations for marking and building the foundation - in the video.

Stages of construction

For the construction of the basement, several methods are used.:

• From the inside, sheets of heat-insulating material are laid, a binding wire is laid and the surface is poured with concrete;
• Cast blocks with gravel are laid on the base. Such material perfectly retains heat and has a high bearing capacity. But if it is assumed that the wall will be high, it is additionally reinforced with reinforcement;
• Lay wooden materials impregnated under pressure with protective compounds. In the future, the tree is additionally insulated.

The choice of material and method for building a basement depends not only on your financial capabilities, but also on the type of soil and type of foundation. In addition, certain types of plinths require additional processing. For example, a concrete plinth does not need to be painted, but if it is built from concrete or sand blocks, the surface must be plastered and covered with moisture-resistant paint (Figure 7).

As a rule, a frame is included in the package of finished products, which only needs to be mounted. But if you build with your own hands, the frame is most often made of wood or metal.

Figure 7. Basement construction technology

For this, planed lumber or a metal profile is used. When choosing materials for the frame, you should pay attention to several important details:

• Lumber intended for construction is treated with a special green compound, so the frame will have to be additionally painted. Such wood is quite expensive, but its service life is higher than usual. It is important that the impregnation composition is poisonous, so the roots or leaves of plants should not be allowed to come into contact with the tree.
• Pillars, ceilings and other vertical elements can be made from boards (50 x 100 or 50 x 125 mm). For the installation of beams, a beam is used, the size of which depends on the length of the building.

The construction of the frame begins with the fact that roofing material or rubberized material is laid on the base. On lumber intended for horizontal fastening, mark and drill holes for bolts and arrange them around the perimeter of the plinth. After that, we outline the attachment points for the vertical beams. A detailed frame installation scheme is shown in Figure 8.

After attaching the horizontal elements to the plinth, check them for level, saw the vertical beams into pieces of the desired size.

Note: Sawing vertical beams in advance is not recommended, because when installed on a plinth, they can give an error.

In the next step, attach the vertical posts to the top beams. Having outlined the position of each board or beam, fix it obliquely with a driven nail. The optimal distance between vertical posts is 30 or 60 cm, since in this case it is easy to carry out glazing.

Figure 8. Scheme of mounting the frame for gable greenhouses

At the final stage, the vertical posts are attached to the lower and upper beams with nails, and to reinforce the structure, it is recommended to tie the joints with steel brackets, wire or tape with an anti-corrosion coating. After that, facing boards and gutters are attached. In the process of work, all places of cuts and holes for fastenings must be treated with an antiseptic. Detailed recommendations you will learn how to install the frame from the video.

How to make a greenhouse out of old window frames

Do-it-yourself greenhouses from improvised materials practically do not differ in functionality from expensive polycarbonate structures. Of course, they are not very suitable for winter crops, but they will successfully last for several seasons under operating conditions in spring, summer and autumn.

One of the simplest structures is considered to be a greenhouse made of old window frames (Figure 9). For it, you need to make a concrete foundation, and if the building is located on clay or swampy soil, additionally equip a gravel pillow.

Figure 9. Building a greenhouse from old window frames

But the most important step is the preparation of the raw material itself - the old window frames. To do this, they remove all handles, latches, hinges and other metal parts. The old paint is removed, the wood is treated with an antiseptic and repainted. In most cases, the frames are fastened together with nails. Therefore, it is advisable to remove the glass in advance so as not to damage them during installation.

Frames are attached to a frame of wooden beams. You can leave a few vents for ventilation, and make their roof polycarbonate. The remaining windows that will not open during operation are carefully sealed with sealant.

How to make a foundation

The choice of material for the construction of the foundation depends on the characteristics of the soil and the type of greenhouse itself. Consider the most popular options.

• Concrete

Suitable for homogeneous soil with medium bearing capacity. In this case, a support is made directly at the construction site: a wooden formwork is installed in a pit 30 cm deep, and the space is poured with liquid concrete. The bottom of the pit should be flat and covered with a layer of gravel or sand. If the site has rocky soil, a hole is dug to the rock and its surface is thoroughly cleaned (Figure 10).

The formwork must be square (side length - 30 cm). The boards must be tied together so that they do not deform when poured. Reinforcement is laid inside the formwork and concrete is poured.

• From piles

For areas with soft soil, a pile foundation is more suitable. As a rule, piles are made of concrete and buried or driven into the ground. However, this method of construction is too expensive and requires the use of special equipment. Therefore, other methods of building a pile foundation can be used on a personal plot:

1. Drive old rails or other metal beams into the ground;
2. Use sleepers impregnated with special compounds for longer operation.

Figure 10. The procedure for the construction of a strip concrete foundation

Metal piles can be freely driven into the ground without fear of deformation. When doing this, choose beams long enough so that their lower part reaches the soil layers with high bearing capacity.

Note: Before driving piles, mark the site so that enough space is allocated for the foundation. This is necessary, because in the process of driving the pile may stumble upon a stone or other hard rock, and you will have to change its direction.

You need to drive piles while standing on a special stand. But even if you decide to build a small greenhouse on piles, it is better to consult with a specialist in advance.

• From concrete slabs

The foundation, built of concrete slabs, is quite expensive. But its cost pays off with high strength, reliability and bearing capacity even on soft soils.

It is based on a reinforced concrete slab 20 cm thick, which evenly distributes the load. However, concrete slabs must not be laid on loose ground. If, nevertheless, this is necessary, the soil layer is removed and replaced with crushed stone or gravel. Styrox is laid on the crushed stone (thickness 10 cm) and the surface is poured with concrete. The technology for building a foundation from piles and concrete slabs is shown in Figure 11.

Figure 11. Foundation construction based on piles and concrete slabs

The selection of the foundation is especially difficult for clay areas or soil, which changes its composition in depth. In this case, it is better to consult a specialist so that the greenhouse does not deform after construction and has sufficient thermal insulation.

Construction steps

To make a greenhouse out of old window frames correctly, you need to follow certain rules.

Step-by-step instructions for building a greenhouse include the following steps:

1. Foundation construction: since this structure is quite heavy, it is advisable to make the corner of the foundation of stone, and between them to make a structure of concrete on a pillow of gravel and sand.
2. Prepare building material: remove all metal fittings from old frames, remove old paint, treat wood with an antiseptic and repaint.
3. Make the floor: for this, the ground is first tamped, and then a concrete screed is made on it, on which the beds will be located in the future
4. Frame construction and sheathing: the base to which the frames will be attached is made of bars of the same thickness as the frames. The parts are fastened together with nails, and the roof can be made of film or polycarbonate.

After the greenhouse is completely ready, beds are equipped in it or racks are installed. It is also desirable to provide a vestibule in which inventory and necessary equipment will be stored.

How to make a greenhouse from a profile pipe yourself

Profile pipes are widely used in construction, and since this material is light and durable, it can also be used to make a greenhouse.

Since it is difficult to bend a profile pipe at a right angle without the use of special equipment, it is best to build arched models with it.

Where is the best place to place

You can place a greenhouse from a profile pipe on almost any part of the site. Since such a structure is light, it does not carry a large load on the soil, and they can be built even in swampy and clay areas.

Figure 12. Recommendations for the construction of a greenhouse from a profile pipe

At the same time, it is important to take into account that the same requirements apply to greenhouses from a profile pipe as to buildings made of other materials. To protect the structure from strong winds, it is advisable to build a greenhouse under the protection of other buildings or hedges. And to provide plants with optimal lighting, it is advisable to place the building from east to west.

Foundation

The profile pipe is much lighter than wood, so the foundation for a greenhouse from it can be anything. However, if you plan to operate the building for a long time, it is better to make a concrete foundation.

If the greenhouse from the profile pipe will be used only in summer, you can get around without a foundation by installing the frame supports directly into the ground. But in this case, it is necessary to provide the plants with additional protection by installing wooden formwork around the perimeter.

Stages of construction

The construction of a greenhouse from a profile pipe begins with the preparation of the site (Figure 12). It is advisable to choose a flat area with sandy soil. If there is no such place, the soil is leveled manually, and drainage is arranged on marshy soils.

Next, proceed to the manufacture and installation of the frame. If you want to build a rectangular greenhouse, you will have to buy special equipment with which the pipe can be bent to the desired angle. To avoid additional costs, it is better to build arched structures. In this case, the pipe can simply be bent in an arc and dug into the ground from both sides.

At the final stage of construction, the frame is sheathed with film, glass or polycarbonate, the floor and beds are made, or shelving is installed.

Make a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands drawings

The most modern and functional option is the construction of a polycarbonate greenhouse (Figure 13). It is lightweight, durable and wear-resistant material that will last long years. Its only drawback is the high price, so it is worth building such greenhouses only if it will be used for a long time.

You can make a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands according to the drawings, but many prefer to buy ready-made structures and carry out installation on site. We will tell you how to save money and build a protected ground structure with your own hands.

What is needed for this

First of all, for the construction you need to buy polycarbonate. Another advantage is that the sheets have a standard length and width (12 and 2.10 meters, respectively). This allows you to build a greenhouse 3.5 meters wide and cover the roof with one whole sheet.

In addition to the polycarbonate itself, for the construction you will need materials for the foundation, accessories for attaching sheets and a plastic U-shaped profile, which covers the edges of the polycarbonate to protect its honeycombs from dust.

Peculiarities

In addition to the high cost of polycarbonate, the material has no other significant drawbacks. Of course, its honeycombs can become clogged with dust, and the coating will lose transparency, but this problem can be easily solved with a plastic profile that is attached to the edges of the sheet.

Figure 13. The order of construction of a polycarbonate greenhouse

As with other types of structures, polycarbonate greenhouses require a foundation, but its purpose is not to strengthen the building, but to protect plants from the external environment.

Where is the best place to place

In addition, it is desirable to install the greenhouse so that the plants receive the maximum amount of sunlight. To do this, you need to arrange the structure from east to west.

Foundation

To build a foundation that will exactly match the size of the greenhouse, you need to place the site by setting pegs and pulling a rope between them. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the foundation.

Note: Since polycarbonate is a lightweight material, the foundation can be built both as tape (made of concrete) and wooden - from beams and supports.

As a support, you can use asbestos-cement pipes, which are installed at the corners of the greenhouse. The soil around them is compacted, and the foundation is mounted from wooden beams. It is better to treat the tree with an antiseptic and paint it so that the structure does not rot.

Stages of construction

The steps for building a polycarbonate greenhouse are the same as for other materials. First, mark the site and build the foundation. After that, proceed to the installation of the frame. It can be made of wood, shaped pipes or aluminum. The latter option is considered preferable, since aluminum is quite light, but at the same time durable.

At the final stages, the frame is sheathed with polycarbonate sheets, equipment for irrigation, heating and ventilation is installed inside the structure, and the beds are equipped.

How to make a heated greenhouse with your own hands

The design of a heated greenhouse practically does not differ from conventional structures. But at the same time, several important nuances must be taken into account. First, you need to carefully seal all the cracks so that heat does not leave the greenhouse.

Secondly, you need to install heating equipment. You can make warm beds by arranging them according to the principle of a warm floor, and laying pipes under the ground. But a more popular option is the installation of heating: gas, electric or furnace boiler.

In general, a glass container in which plants suitable for such conditions grow can become something of an independent ecosystem. Of course, it is not airtight, it is necessary to water a miniature garden from time to time, but the water evaporates much more slowly, and moisture-loving plants feel great in such a microclimate.

As for the owner of this miniature garden, contemplation of the terrarium created by his own hands will surely become no less peaceful for him than meditation. In just 5 steps, you can become the owner of such a masterpiece.

Step 1. Choose a capacity

There is no need for a large aquarium, an expensive mini-greenhouse, or even a ready-made terrarium kit. Almost any glass vessel will do - from small containers for bulk products to a small round aquarium, in which goldfish are usually kept. In a word, here you are limited only by fantasy.

Rinse the future terrarium with a disinfectant solution to remove potential moss spores or substances that will be harmful to plants. Leave the vessel to dry completely for 1-2 days before filling it with drainage, earth and plants.

Step 2. Take care of the ground

Since terrariums do not have drainage holes, this must be taken into account when preparing the substrate. Lay a layer of gravel 3-5 cm thick on the bottom of the container. Before adding soil, place sphagnum moss or burlap on the surface of the first layer - these components will not allow the substrate to fall between the stones and cake. If you choose moss, be sure to rinse it first to remove seeds, weeds, and insects that may be in it. It should be laid in small parts, and not in a single layer, as the manufacturer packed it.

The next layer is made of charcoal 0.5-1.5 cm thick. It is necessary for disinfection and odor neutralization in case you overdo it with watering. Well, next comes the turn of the earth - a layer of 6 cm will be quite enough. Depending on the depth of the terrarium, the amount of substrate can be varied, adhering to the above proportions.

Step 3: The fun part is planting the plants.

As a rule, between flowering and decorative leafy plants for terrariums, they make a choice in favor of the latter. Today, many flower shops offer a large selection of miniature plants that are ideal for container sizes. The most popular of them are scindapsus, ferns and ivy, as well as decorative types of moss. For example, reindeer reindeer serves as a bright and unusual color spot, contrasting with the rest of the green mass. When choosing plants, keep in mind that they should all have similar lighting needs and watering frequency.

Also, for a more interesting solution, you can use various branches and stones. And to create a terrarium with a plot, you can make small benches, add figures of people, animals and reduced copies of objects.

By the way, if you are afraid that midges will settle in the terrarium due to high humidity, cover its edge with gauze and secure it with an elastic band.

Step 4: Take care of your plants

Maintain the optimal level of humidity in the terrarium, preventing the substrate from souring or drying out. Immediately after planting and from time to time thereafter, replace watering with spraying, and if you feel that the flowers need more moisture, water, but do it sparingly. Do not forget that excess water in the terrarium causes the development of fungal diseases, mold, and plant rotting. If these problems appear, it will not be so easy to deal with them.

The appearance of condensation on the walls of the terrarium is normal, if it is not so much. If it is difficult to see the contents through the condensate, this is a serious reason to reduce watering. Ventilate containers with a lid often to encourage the evaporation of excess water. Open terrariums return to normal humidity levels more quickly, however, they require more frequent watering than those with lids. After a while, the ecosystem will normalize, and you can return to your usual care.

If you notice a fungus that has spread to the surface of the earth and on plants, take the same measures. Some types of fungi can be removed with tweezers or wooden sticks. And do not forget to get rid of dried leaves and inflorescences - rotting, they often lead to the appearance of a fungus.

Apply a silent granular fertilizer twice a year.

Trim or thin out the plants so they don't overgrow and interfere with each other.

Step 5. Find a place for the terrarium

Direct sunlight can be detrimental to plants in a terrarium, causing decay and the development of fungal diseases. In addition, in such an environment, the temperature in the sun rises quite quickly, and without ventilation, the roots can simply boil. Therefore, the best place for a terrarium will be one where there is enough diffused light. And certainly you should not choose southern and western windows for this.

And for a snack - some beautiful photos of terrariums from the Internet (increase by clicking):

Each gardener is attracted by beds with vegetables and other types of plants. And, probably, each of them dreams of greenhouses. In this article, we will consider various options for greenhouses, we will study the materials from which the greenhouse is made. Let's raise the question of whether it is better to build yourself or buy a ready-made kit. So, how to make a greenhouse with your own hands? Let's start reviewing.

Materials such as polycarbonate, glass, polyethylene film are used to cover facilities for growing plants.

The frame of the greenhouse is mainly made of metal profiles or wood, and polymer pipes can also be used.

Depending on the type of construction, greenhouse structures are of the following types: arched, gable and single-slope. The greenhouse is most often installed as a stand-alone structure, but you can make an extension to a neighboring building.
Greenhouses are divided into winter and summer. In most cases, a winter greenhouse is a greenhouse.

In order to grow seedlings for flowers or early vegetables, summer residents use a frame made of metal profiles, wood or metal-plastic pipes to build greenhouses. And depending on the preferences for thickness, covered with plastic wrap. In order to preserve the film for any season, it is recommended to shoot it for the summer period. The film can not be removed if it is made of reinforced film.

If an all-season greenhouse is installed at the dacha, then it must also be additionally equipped with systems such as climate control sensors, a heating system, irrigation, and ventilation must also be installed.

Do-it-yourself arched summer greenhouse

Consider how this type of greenhouse is built. In order for this structure to be made quickly and efficiently, you need to prepare the material for it in advance. It is recommended to use a U-shaped metal profile. To do this, you first mark the shelves on the frame, and then bend at your discretion. After that, you will need a food film, the remains of corners, thick reinforcement, a cutting board.

To build a support for fixing a greenhouse or greenhouse, scraps from metal pipes are used. To do this, first mark the place where the building will be installed. After that, pipe sections are driven into the ground, with a margin of approximately 30 cm above the ground.

There is no big difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse. They differ from each other only in size. Greenhouses in height are a maximum of one meter. Greenhouses can be of various sizes, depending on how and for what it will be used.

After the supports are installed, the metal elements, pre-bent, are fixed. To make the frame more durable, the arcs are fixed with a longitudinal rigid material. As such a material, a metal profile or reinforcing bar is usually used. It is attached to each arc. Boards are laid along the entire greenhouse, they will be the boundary between the beds. Then the film is stretched over the already finished frame. It is recommended to fix it with something additionally heavy, so that in a strong wind it will not be torn off the greenhouse.

Attached greenhouse and thermos greenhouse

Who has a limited amount of space in the country, it is logical to use the attached greenhouse. Since one side will be the side of the house, the temperature in the greenhouse will be much higher, and accordingly the plants will grow faster.

These types of greenhouses can also be used as a greenhouse. To do this, it is recommended to install it on the southwestern or southern wall of the house. Thanks to this, a lot of daylight sunlight will come into the greenhouse and with it heat.

Another advantage of the attached greenhouse is the ease of conducting heating and electricity there. The rest of the structure can be made of materials such as glass, polycarbonate or special film.

A distinctive feature of the greenhouse - a thermos is that it is installed almost completely in the ground. First, a pit is dug to a depth of about two meters. Then the foundation is made. After that, the walls are built. You can also choose wall material. It is better to use wood, brick or foam blocks. As a result, it turns out that only a small part of the roof will protrude above the ground. The roof can be made from the same materials as conventional ground greenhouses: polycarbonate, film or glass. To prevent snow from settling on the roof, it must be made gable.

In winter, the ground does not freeze at such a depth, so you can not install additional equipment in a thermos greenhouse to keep the temperature at a constant level. If you cover the roof with a special reflective film, then this will give you the opportunity to collect and transform solar heat.

Many summer residents believe that the arched greenhouse is unstable. And then some of them decide to build a frame of wood. In order to build a wooden greenhouse, a number of conditions must be met. The durability of such a greenhouse will be ensured if a good foundation is made for it. Against rotting of a wooden frame, it is necessary to treat it with an antiseptic.

A wooden greenhouse is also chosen for the reason that almost anyone without special skills can build it. Woodworking is much easier than, for example, metalworking. When using metal as frames, basic knowledge of plumbing and welding is needed. To protect the greenhouse from freezing, it is recommended to use. It will be more reliable and additionally protected.

Foundation manufacturing

The first step in the construction of a greenhouse is the manufacture of the foundation. To do this, a trench is dug around the perimeter of the greenhouse. The depth is about 20 cm and the width is about 30 cm. Pegs are installed along the entire length of the trench, to which formwork boards are nailed. After that, a frame of reinforcement with diameters of about 10 mm is installed in the formwork. It is believed that this particular diameter is well suited for the manufacture of the frame. Parts of the frame are fastened with wire and after that they are welded. When the frame is made, concrete is poured into the formwork along the entire perimeter of the trench.

To fill the entire void with concrete, you need to use a vibrator, if it is not there, then you can perform punctures in a spiral from the edges to the center to release air bubbles from the solution. The concrete mixture becomes strong after 3 weeks. However, if the outside temperature is high, it is recommended to put a film on top of the solution.

How to make a wood frame

If you lay roofing material over the foundation, then the wooden frame will last much longer. Next, the tree is tied. To make it you need a beam of 10 by 20 cm section. Its lower part is attached with self-tapping screws to the foundation. Then all this is combined with metal plates.

Then vertical racks are installed to the lower trim around the entire perimeter at a distance of 75 cm from each other. The upper part of the vertical structure is fastened with a wooden harness. For reliability, it is recommended to install spacers and struts.

A wooden greenhouse, as well as a thermos greenhouse, is covered with a gable roof. In winter, snow will not accumulate, and the roof will not sag under its weight. A gable roof is easier to install. To attach the material (glass, polycarbonate or film), you will need rafters. They are quite easy to make yourself out of wood. You will need a bar with a section of 10 by 4 or the same board. The structure is assembled on the ground, and then installed on top of the greenhouse.

First, a structure is made from two beams, like the letter "A". And only then identical schemes are gradually attached to it. Then they are all linked together with ridge boards. These boards are attached to both sides of the roof. The rafters are sheathed with sheathing, on which the roof material is attached.

roofing material

Why do many people make greenhouses themselves? Most will answer that it is much cheaper. And this is how it really is. The advantage of making your own is that you are your own designer. Choose your own size, shape, material, type of greenhouse. You also do the internal filling of the greenhouse yourself, as you prefer. And if you turn on ingenuity and engineering skills, you can make automatic watering and ventilation.

With independent construction, you choose the material for the manufacture of the greenhouse. Depending on the purpose for which the greenhouse is placed, the material is selected accordingly. In order to grow vegetables and seedlings, you can use a film. Polycarbonate or glass is needed if you want a smart greenhouse. And in this case, vegetables and flowers will always be on your table.

Everyone knows that the harvest of vegetables and fruits is many times greater than the harvest just in the ground. But not everyone has the opportunity to buy. Therefore, making your own greenhouse from film and wood is a very cost-effective step.

A film is used as a material, since it does not need to additionally make a foundation. The advantage of the film is that it is transparent.

Consider each material in more detail

List of tools: axe, hammer, level, welding, knife, self-tapping screws, nails, cord. This is the main list of tools, but others may be needed depending on the type of structure.

Greenhouse with a wooden frame, covered with foil

First, we take the bars, pre-impregnated with an antiseptic and dried. Cross section approximately 50 mm. The concrete base is made first. First, a trench is dripped, sand is laid on the bottom and poured with water. After some time, the trench is filled with a cement mortar. It is better to observe the following proportions by analogy: 10 buckets of gravel, 6 buckets of sand and 2 buckets of cement mortar.

Next, the racks are made. They need to make 6 pieces. 4 pieces for the side parts, about 2 m high, and 2 for the doors. To correctly make the bars, they are placed on a flat surface, the necessary measurements are taken, and only then they are attached to the base with self-tapping screws or corners with nails. Using a plumb line, we measure the level.

The ridge beam is used in the upper part of the greenhouse. Fastened with nails. Then everything is covered with polyethylene. Cover with a film with a small margin so that you can touch up later. Then the rail is fastened with nails to the timber.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse with a metal frame

As a base, such greenhouses use metal arches, approximately 30 mm in diameter. You can also take a tarred timber, a metal corner or a sleeper, for example. Holes are drilled in the tree, 10 cm deep every 150 cm for arches.

Side rails are attached - runs. At the top they are connected by a ridge rail. Staples are boiled from the inside, slats are inserted into them and compressed with bolts.

Greenhouse with two frames

In such a greenhouse, the sides are wooden frames. For their manufacture, a 3 by 4 rail is used. The height is usually from two meters. Width about one and a half. A film is stretched over the frames in 2 layers and only then the frames are installed in a finished wooden frame, matched to the size of the frame.

Scheme of a gable greenhouse from frames

The scheme is the same as for a conventional greenhouse with two frames. The only difference is that the rafters are attached to the top.

To do this, we take slats, one side is a skate, the second is the top of the structure. After bonding, the excess rails are sawn off.

Holes are made in a wooden beam for fastening the frame with nails. Part of the frame will be the side walls of the greenhouse, and the rest are mounted on hinges, like doors.

The greenhouses that we have just considered are summer ones. They grow various vegetables, fruits, flowers during the warm months, so that there is solar warmth and light. There are also winter greenhouses, they have a more complex structure, but they also have more functions.

Gable winter greenhouse with greenhouse frames

In this design, a gable winter greenhouse uses polyethylene or glass as side walls.

Approximately at a height of 40 cm, a foundation is installed in a section of 40 by 40. Next, there is bricklaying. Bars are placed on the brick, in which holes for the frames have already been made. The bars are pre-treated with resin.

Bars with a diameter of 10 cm will serve as rafters. They connect the ridge beam and the wall beam.

Then you can already deal with the interior decoration of the greenhouse. For example, you can put shelving. In order for the air to circulate well, leave a small hole between the rack and the wall. Lath board sheathe areas between the frames.

Shed winter greenhouse made of greenhouse frames

In order for the corridor inside the greenhouse to be about 80 cm, you need to make a pit in the following dimensions:

• depth 85 centimeters;
• length 11 meters;
• width 3.5 meters.

In the event that the frame is wooden, then the lower part of the beam must be treated with an antiseptic. Installing such a greenhouse is no different from a gable one. In order for the stove chimney to be used as efficiently as possible, 10 frames are installed.

• The greenhouse must be ventilated.
• The entrance must be on the east or west side.
• Roofing felt, boards are taken as material for the ceiling.
• The entrance to the greenhouse should be additionally fenced.
• Upon completion of construction, metal materials must be coated with paint.

Newcomers to greenhouse building can first try making a shed greenhouse or greenhouse. The main difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse is that the plants are ventilated by opening part of the greenhouse. The greenhouse is easier to use, it can be dismantled at any time, moved to another place. It should only be borne in mind that low plants can be planted in a greenhouse. Most gardeners use a greenhouse to grow seedlings. Simply put, a greenhouse is a miniature greenhouse.

Single-pitched excavated film greenhouse

Let's start with the dimensions of the pit. The width is about one and a half meters, the depth is up to half a meter, the bottom is about half a meter. Logs are stacked along the northern and southern walls. In order for the frames not to slip, a groove is made on the south side or bars are additionally nailed. Frames with a film with an area of ​​​​1 m by 1.5 m are placed along the width of the greenhouse. And depending on how many frames there will be, this will be the length of the greenhouse. Welding can be used to connect frames.

Gable film greenhouse

First, a box is made. Dimensions:

• Height - 20 cm.
• Width - 1.6 meters.

Rafters are nailed to the sides every 3-5 cm. On top, everything is connected by a bar, which also forms a ridge. The height will be about 75 cm. Every gardener can make such a miniature greenhouse. It is very fast and does not require large investments.

Rules for the placement of greenhouses and greenhouses

The place for installing a greenhouse or greenhouse must be chosen correctly. There should be a lot of sunlight and no wind from the north side. The best option would be a small area on the southern part of your site.

Be sure to pay attention to the condition of your soil. If the soil contains a lot of clay or a lot of moisture in it, then such land cannot be used for a greenhouse or greenhouse. The best option would be soils that are processed in advance from pests and diseases.

Let's look at how to make a winter greenhouse with your own hands? Almost every site has a greenhouse or greenhouse. These designs can be purchased ready-made. In our article, we will look at how you can make a greenhouse yourself, what materials you may need and, in general, types of structures.

Greenhouse types

One of the main advantages of homemade greenhouses is that you are your own designer and you can think over and choose the design you need.

But before you start building, you need to carefully consider a number of details.

1. Select material.
2. Consider an irrigation system.
3. Is a foundation needed?
4. Ventilation system.
5. Dimensions.
6. Heating system.
7. Frame type.
8. Interior decoration.
9. Workspace.

Addition. Structures, depending on the features, can be wall-mounted or stationary.

Characteristics of different types of structures

Before you build a greenhouse with your own hands, a mandatory step is to choose a construction model. If a greenhouse or greenhouse is adjacent to the house, then they will be economical in terms of space and heating costs.

Most of them use solar heat for heating.

There are greenhouses-polygons. They are distinguished by their uniqueness and complexity in manufacturing. Accordingly, the prices for such structures are higher. But you will have a beautifully decorated garden plot.

Structural dimensions

Before you start building a greenhouse, you need to understand what size it will be. In this case, it will be necessary to take into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site, and the size of the proposed place for the greenhouse.

Consider what you need to consider when choosing a size:

• If you plan to grow only seedlings, then you can use the smallest size.
• If the plant will be completely grown in a greenhouse, then a more voluminous design is needed.
• When choosing a size, you need to consider that the larger the area, the higher the cost of heating.
• The height of the structure directly depends on the height of the owner of this greenhouse and on the interior finish (shelves).

Building a winter greenhouse: foundation

If the greenhouse or greenhouse is small in size, then the foundation is optional. However, many professionals in this field recommend its use in construction. Since the foundation protects the greenhouse from groundwater and dampness.

Types of bearing base for greenhouse structures:

• Bars made of wood.
• Foam blocks.
• Brick.
• Concrete.

In most cases, homemade greenhouses are made from a wooden frame.

Greenhouse materials

An important quality of a tree is its environmental friendliness and thermal insulation, which is very important for seedlings. A negative feature of using wood is its tendency to rot. Therefore, now they prefer to use galvanized steel as a frame.

Any beginner in this business will be able to independently assemble a metal frame. Just keep in mind that thermal insulation can be worsened.

We are building a winter greenhouse: materials for construction

Before you start building a greenhouse, you must select the material. When choosing it, you need to focus on such qualities as strength, light transmission, and good thermal insulation.

Materials such as wood, glass, polycarbonate, metal arcs, polyethylene pipes have all of the above properties.

Consider the quality of materials:

Glass is environmentally friendly and translucent. Cons - it breaks easily and weighs a lot. And also for the price - this is not the most economical option. Glazing will take a lot of time.

Polycarbonate, like glass, is environmentally friendly. It retains heat well and is resistant to mechanical damage. This is a very important characteristic, since the structure will not collapse under the influence of hail and stones. Its strength compared to glass exceeds 100 times. It is of two types: honeycombs and sheets. They differ from each other in structure and manufacturing process.

Cellular polycarbonate has greater light transmission, as its material and structure scatter light across the glass.

Sheet in its structure and characteristics is similar to glass.

Winter buildings are more complex in themselves, since during their construction it is necessary to think over heating and heat wiring systems. Many experienced gardeners recommend, or rather, believe that a biofuel polycarbonate greenhouse is the most optimal for winter time. When building a wall-mounted greenhouse, you can consider the option of connecting the whole house to the heating system. It will also be beneficial from an economic point of view.

What is biofuel?

• Household garbage.
• Compost.
• You can use manure.
• Horse dung is the most valuable fuel.

Advice. Mix horse manure with household residues - garbage and evenly distributed over the peat bedding.

The main feature of this greenhouse is a huge savings on maintaining the temperature - utilities. Plants can be grown all year round, and in the most severe and frosty winter. Excellent level of light penetration, which is not always the case in conventional greenhouses.

The main features of this greenhouse:

The main advantage is that, starting from a depth of 2 meters, the soil maintains the same temperature all the time: in winter, and in summer, and in frosts, and in rains.

Note. There are small changes depending on the level of groundwater, the closer they are to the surface, the more noticeable temperature fluctuations.

A good example is a well. In the well, both in summer and winter, the temperature is constant, above zero.

Approximately at a depth of 1 meter, temperature drops are noticeable: +5 in winter, and up to +10 in summer.

The base of the greenhouse can be heated to such temperatures using a warm floor. And to preserve the humidity of the air and soil, it is necessary to use drip irrigation.

Note. A thermos greenhouse can be built in just one season, without using any special equipment and at no great cost.

Digging a pit. Land works for the greenhouse

Since the greenhouse goes into the ground, its main part, you need to dig a hole, at least two meters. Only then the soil will not freeze, but will give off its heat.

The length of the underground part can be as long as you like, and the width is limited - only 5 meters.

Note. You can make the width and more, but then the natural heating and reflective properties will be worse.

The shape can be any, the main thing is to orient it to the west-east side. One side will be thoroughly insulated with foam or glass wool, and the other should be well lit by the sun.

A foundation will be poured along the edge or blocks of concrete will be laid out, so the edge must be well aligned.

wall construction

When the foundation is completed, you can begin to lay out the walls. On the concrete base there will be a metal frame on which the thermal blocks will be attached.

• The best roof material is polycarbonate.
• Installation takes place on a metal structure with a crate.
• It is necessary to thoroughly strengthen the attachment points.

How best to make thermal insulation and heating:

A special film is attached to the inside of the wall, it perfectly holds heat.

Advice. In regions with very cold climates, a foil-coated film and a double base layer can be used to retain heat, relatively warm regions.

The main function of reflective insulation is to maintain positive temperature and, as a result, humidity and carbon dioxide levels. That is, everything that is important for the normal growth of any plants.

Even inside the greenhouse, it is necessary to provide "heat accumulators".
Note. "Heat accumulator" - it can be any container with water, for example, bottles, they heat up well and quickly and gradually cool down over time, maintaining the temperature.

The heating of the base will be carried out using a warm floor. It is very important when using it to protect the wires from damage by garden tools and moisture. To protect against both moments, you can lay it in concrete, an easier way is to close it with a net - but this is only from garden tools.

Floor heating in a greenhouse is often done under tiles, and plants are planted in pots, tubs, lawns.

Note. For plants, the main thing is to maintain the optimal temperature of 25-35 degrees Celsius, and the level of humidity.

How to build a roof in a greenhouse with your own hands

When the walls are completely ready, you need to prepare the roof for the greenhouse. The best option for a construction of 12 meters is polycarbonate.

It is necessary to provide for the construction of the roof:

• Preservation of heat inside the greenhouse is achieved through the use of a double coating of polycarbonate (cellular).
• To connect 2 sheets of polycarbonate, each 4 mm thick, a profile pipe gasket is taken.
• The snow itself will not melt on such a double cover, so you need to use a thermal circuit, it will turn on and off with a timer.
• The use of double coating reduces heat loss during heating, but the light transmission is reduced by approximately 10%.
• We prepare the rafters in advance - we impregnate them with protective agents.
• The connection takes place in 1/2 of the tree, and the jumper is attached so that the length at the bottom point is up to 5 cm.
• The rafters prepared in advance will be a support, the lintels are removed, and a ridge beam is placed under them.
• The extreme rafters are nailed to the ridge beam using ordinary 20 cm nails.

As soon as the roof is assembled, it can be painted, after the paint has completely dried, polycarbonate is attached. For fastening, you need to take wood screws. Therefore, an iron corner for the roof is attached along the timber, and a special gasket made of heat-insulating material is also used.

The joints of polycarbonate and roof parts must be well glued with adhesive tape - adhesive tape. After all the preparatory work, you can mount the polycarbonate roof in place and fix it to the walls. Then you can move on to the arrangement of the internal space.

Our main goal is to build a greenhouse for the winter period with a small financial and labor cost and make heating in it. In this article, we will look at the most economical ways to maintain heat and heat, and the choice of materials that best minimize losses.

The design should be solid, designed for long-term use, if possible inexpensive, economical in terms of heating.

How can savings be achieved

Let's divide the question into two parts. We have to:

• To build a structure that will absorb heat as much as possible on sunny days and give a minimum due to radiation and concept.
• Choose the most inexpensive way to heat in winter (and not only) - considering how it will be done and how much the operation will cost.

Construction

First, we sweep away greenhouses using film or made of wooden frames, with glass, in one or two layers. Why?

In the first variant, you can forget about the preservation of heat in principle. Losses due to convection are very high; and this material is too easy to accidentally damage. In winter, all these facts will definitely lead to the death of the crop. Such a greenhouse is inexpensive in terms of financial costs. But its thermal insulation properties are practically equal to zero.

In the second option, it will also be a practically insoluble issue - heat leakage through holes between the glass and the frame. Wood can dry out or change shape with changes in humidity. Also, due to the effects of snow and rain, the frames need to be covered with protective compounds every year, for example, painted.

What remains?

Can choose

• Metal-plastic greenhouses with several layers of glazing.
• Greenhouses on metal structures with polycarbonate.
• Metal-plastic.

In this case, there are many ready-made structures and all that remains for us is to choose it and pay, material and installation.

Basic principles to consider when designing

If we consider by the amount of solar energy that can be obtained, then the best option would be a shed roof, directed to the south. In this case, the sun will almost constantly shine on it almost at a right angle.

The north wall is being built opaque. It must also be insulated from the inside with foil insulation - foil inside. With such a construction, heat and light entering the greenhouse will be reflected from the foil and fall at right angles onto the beds. Since from the course of physics we know that the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection.

Attention: you can not make a roof with a slope of less than thirty degrees. In winter, snow can accumulate, and this is undesirable for obvious reasons.

What do we get? The advantages of this solution are durability, wear resistance and good thermal insulation. The main disadvantage is the amount that will have to be spent on the purchase of such a greenhouse. The price of 1 square meter starts from 2500 rubles, if a large area is planned, then the result will be a substantial amount.

Polycarbonate

Cellular polycarbonate gained popularity very quickly after its appearance, due to its combination useful properties. Even when used in one layer, good thermal insulation is provided due to the cavities inside. Air is one of the best heat insulators.

Polycarbonate is almost 15 times lighter than glass, which practically eliminates the issue of structural strength.

This material is easy to bend and give the desired shape. Polycarbonate can be used together with an arch-shaped frame without any difficulties or problems. By the way, this design removes the issue with snow, the arch does not hold snow and it does not accumulate. Simple fastening, with self-tapping screws to a metal structure, and ease of processing.

The simplest recommendations are possible due to the characteristics of polycarbonate and the type of metal structure. The most durable frames are obtained from profile pipes. The arch is formed using a pipe bender, the structure is assembled by welding. The cross section of the pipe for the arch is -20 * 40 mm, the corner posts are made of pipes with a diameter of at least 40 * 40 mm.

Be sure to need ventilation windows, they will help the plants survive sunny days. Greenhouse with the use of prof. pipes, with a shed roof - simply assembled with bolts. The slopes at the corner posts are needed only during the assembly of the structure; in the future, polycarbonate will give rigidity.

Even cheaper and easier to manufacture is a galvanized profile, which is used when working with drywall, but it is not so resistant to lateral loads (during wind). When using it, you need to make a roof slope of 45 degrees, even minimal accumulations of snow are undesirable.

From the end, open-cell polycarbonate sheets must be sealed with special strips or sealant. So, we will reduce heat loss due to convective currents inside the cells.

Heating

How to start heating inside the greenhouse yourself? Consider the most affordable solutions for small greenhouses. We will consider only air heating, because the use of radiators, their installation, piping, all this will not be cheap. And there is a high probability to freeze this system in winter.

Gas

Heating using the main gas pipeline, how to do it right? A simple solution is a convector, how many you need will depend on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe greenhouse. The thermostats that are used in the design of this device allow you to get the result without adjusting the burners and other issues.

The products of combustion will go out into the open air through a pipe, and air will also flow through it to maintain combustion.

If the size of the greenhouse is large, you can install a gas boiler. The heat exchanger can be blown by a fan, if necessary, warm air is diluted using aluminum sleeves. Thermal insulation, as when using a boiler for heating a house, is not needed, we have one room.

With the onset of cold weather, work in the garden and in the garden come to an end. And summer residents with regret have to leave their plots. Despite the fact that growing fruits and vegetables only becomes interesting towards the end of the season. But if you build a greenhouse with heating in your summer cottage, you can grow anything you like even in severe frosts in winter.

Construction type

First you need to choose the type of greenhouse, and only then proceed to the calculations and construction. Choice options depend on the purpose of the site and its features, on the location. Avid gardeners recommend designs using polycarbonate as a material. This is the easiest and most popular option. Another good option is a thermos greenhouse. It is erected in late spring or summer, because you need to have time to prepare the soil for planting. Polycarbonate structures can be made at any time of the year. This material is very popular because it has a number of useful qualities in terms of greenhouses.

With a small thickness, polycarbonate in winter creates the necessary thermal insulation. It has a honeycomb structure, and the honeycombs are filled with air, which has better thermal insulation properties.

The weight of polycarbonate is 15 times less than glass, so a reinforced frame is not needed. It is very easy to make an arched structure from this material, it bends easily.

Paperwork

If a greenhouse for the winter period is on your own site and you do not want to create a large-scale production, and, accordingly, use the labor of hired workers and sell the products of legal entities. persons, there is no need to draw up documents. For sale on the market, you only need a certificate that you grow them on your own plot.

The owner of a large greenhouse farm using hired labor, the harvest of which is sold through shops and cafes, restaurants, needs to register a legal entity. You can also register as an individual entrepreneur or a private agricultural enterprise. This will achieve tax benefits, although all this is difficult.

Where to build?

The greenhouse must be placed so that most of the sun's rays come to it. It is necessary to ensure that the shadow from the house, buildings and trees does not fall on it. The sides of the greenhouse should be oriented to the north and south. Consider also that the wind significantly increases the heat loss of the structure.

By locating the greenhouse in the wrong place, you will get the exact opposite effect of what you expected - in the form of high heating bills and poor growth of vegetables and fruits that you grow in it. When building a winter greenhouse with your own hands: coating materials, types of heating, location on the site and type of structure, you need to choose based on what kind of plant culture you will grow. An important fact is the financial possibilities that must be taken into account.

Building features

Many amateur gardeners, when faced with this issue for the first time, think what are the differences between an ordinary greenhouse and a winter greenhouse. And the differences between them are significant.

Before proceeding with the construction of a winter greenhouse, you need to carefully read all the important points and its features. Temporary structures are assembled from separate frames. Since the weight of this structure is small, it does not need a foundation. Greenhouses using polycarbonate as a coating can be mounted on ordinary brick posts.

The winter greenhouse is a solid building. It has electricity and heating. Rigid and heavy frame allows you not to worry about the loads arising from wind and snow. But for it it is necessary to make a solid foundation.

An ordinary greenhouse can be small. It all depends on how many and what crops you will breed in it. Growing vegetables in winter, in most cases, occurs for further sale, therefore, the requirements for the area of ​​​​the greenhouse are completely different, they start from tens of square meters.

The material for covering this structure can be absolutely any. But the best, affordable and reliable will be polycarbonate.

Before proceeding with the construction of a winter greenhouse, it is necessary to provide options for severe frosts and, as a result, the need for additional thermal insulation.

The location of the greenhouse must be chosen very carefully, because this is a capital building for more than one year. It is good if it is a flat area, well lit and without buildings nearby. You also need to take into account the humidity of the land on which the building will be, it should be within the normal range.

The foundation for the greenhouse can be made using a shallowly recessed reinforced concrete tape. Since the foundation must be solid, not for one year, when pouring it, everything must be done in accordance with the requirements.

When the base is ready, you can assemble the frame of the structure on it. Factory-made structures are usually supplied with drawings and photographs that will greatly help during installation. Polycarbonate sheets are attached to the frame with rubber washers. For tightness, their edges can be sealed with tape. To ensure the flow of fresh air into the greenhouses, several windows are made. If you have a desire to grow vegetables, but you don’t know how to build a winter greenhouse on your own, you need to contact specialists or buy a factory-made structure.

Heating type

The type of heating used must be selected based on the useful area of ​​​​the greenhouse. Small spaces can be provided with heat using a stove. If the areas are large, then you need to choose from:

• Water heating.
• Electric heating.
• Biofuels.

To use water heating, you will need pipes, a tank and, most importantly, a boiler. Pipes can be buried in the ground or placed directly under the racks.

Electric heating can be air or underfloor heating. Infrared heating is also very often used. The "warm floor" system is similar in design to a water system. A system consisting of heating cables is mounted in a small recess. And then it is covered with layers of sand and fertilized soil. Air heating can be arranged using fan heaters. Infrared heating is provided by infrared heaters located on the ceiling.

Biofuel is the most inexpensive way of heating.

Biofuels can be: any cattle or horse manure, warming wood and bark, hay or straw.

Biofuel is located under a layer of fertile soil. For proper heating of this type of heating, it is necessary that there is a constant flow of air and the necessary level of moisture in the air is maintained.

Which type of heating to use in your greenhouse is up to you. Each of the options needs to be considered from a financial point of view. You now know how a winter greenhouse is being built for growing plants. You need to figure out how to properly place everything in it - the layout of the internal space.

How to arrange the beds?

If you will grow plants of the same species in the greenhouse, then you can arrange the beds in parallel. Consider different cultures may not get along next to each other. For their joint breeding, it is necessary to apply the division into separate zones. For example, growing tomatoes and cucumbers next to each other will not work, because they need different watering methods - tomatoes need to be watered right under the root, and a drip irrigation system is suitable for cucumbers.

Finance, profit, payback periods

Correctly calculating the income from a winter greenhouse is very difficult, and sometimes impossible. The calculated profit and profitability of this entire enterprise is highly dependent on the distance, the city, the sales markets and the resulting crop. A more or less realistic return on investment is two or three years.

Sales channels

Fruits, vegetables and herbs are products that are in constant demand in the warm season, and especially in winter. Growing food in winter has the best profitability, because the prices for fresh herbs, tomatoes and cucumbers are very high.

Sales market

Grocery chains and small shops, and even supermarkets. They sell a very large volume of vegetables every day, so entering into supply contracts with them is very beneficial for you as a farmer. But it will be necessary to register a legal entity, and these are costs that need to be taken into account. Although if the crop that turns out to be grown is large, you can think about this sales market. The market, all novice gardeners sell herbs and vegetables here. Rent a kiosk or tent or place and you can start trading your crops.

Selling greens and vegetables directly. You can place ads on highly specialized sites, forums, bulletin boards in the global network. And there will be buyers very soon.

One of the lightest and easiest to install and assemble is a greenhouse using a wooden frame, which is covered with plastic film, a special greenhouse. The main advantage of this structure is the availability of materials, speed and ease of installation. Cons fragility of the coating, which can be easily damaged.

Another design came to us from Soviet greenhouses. Glass is used as the covering material. Its plus is the possibility of operation all year round, if heating is supplied and double frames are made for the winter period. The light transmission is perfect compared to any other material. Cons - this is a complex building, and the fragility of glass as a material.

The type of greenhouse that you should pay attention to is the buildings with cellular polycarbonate coating that are gaining popularity. The advantages include long service life, low weight, large temperature range, excellent stiffness and strength parameters. Of the minuses, in comparison with glass, the light transmission is about 90 percent.

To install a polycarbonate greenhouse, you need to pay Special attention to the foundation. How to make a foundation? It is necessary to dig a small ditch, the approximate depth of which is from 10 to 30 cm, and the length and width are calculated based on the required area. The base must be protected from moisture - put waterproofing, it can be roofing material. If there is a strip foundation, then it is necessary to put the formwork, from any materials remaining in the garden area. The fittings can be replaced with any other metal, they will do, and the remnants of old pipes and pieces of steel wire.

Since the length of the brick is 25 cm, the width of the brick foundation will be the same.

The height of the foundation will be about 20 cm above ground level. The height of the foundation will need to be increased if you use high beds. Recommends an increase of up to 50 cm. Thus, a small wall will be obtained. It will be installed in it.

We have dealt with the foundation. Now you need to make a choice between the finished material or draft.

What is draft material? These are various types of rolled metal for the frame, polycarbonate, gaskets, etc. A greenhouse made of such materials can only be of a certain shape, as they narrow the list of shape selection. At first glance, it will look like a small house with a transparent roof and walls. This is due to the fact that in houses without certain skills and the necessary equipment, it is difficult to make arcs from a power frame.

In a greenhouse made of this type of material, there is a plus - it is the economy of construction. There is no need to draw a project, you do not need to buy material and tools for installation, you can also install the greenhouse yourself without hiring contractors. For construction, you will need tools: a drill, a hammer, screwdrivers and a hacksaw for working with metal.

On a sheet, you make a drawing with the dimensions of your building in order to have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe general appearance of the greenhouse. It is not necessary to comply with GOST standards, your drawing is enough for you. The most important thing is that you yourself understand what and in what sizes to do.

Recommendations for installing this type of greenhouse is impractical, since each gardener has different types of plot. And everyone will adapt to their own layout, and take into account all the moments and features of their site when designing a greenhouse. It also matters in the manufacture of the material from which you decide to build a greenhouse.

Positive characteristics of this type of greenhouse:

1. Saving your time. Since the manufacturer himself calculated everything and did the design work.
2. The kit contains all materials for installation. There is no need to search for materials.
3. The ready-made kit already has a scheme for collecting a greenhouse. Having carefully studied it, you can easily assemble it yourself.
4. All elements have a specific size, as they were manufactured at the factory.

The downside is that they are the same. Arches in the form of a tunnel (arched type) are now on the market. The advantage of this design is that, due to its arched shape, it has a large light reflection. And also on such a surface water from rain will not accumulate. The downside is that it is less durable and rigid.

Assembly shouldn't be difficult. We take out the diagram, look at the drawing and clearly, following the instructions, assemble the structure, almost like assembling a constructor.

The most difficult thing when collecting a greenhouse is the installation of polycarbonate. The most important thing is to follow the instructions exactly. The only recommendation is that if one person will collect greenhouses, then it is necessary to prepare props in advance.

Since it is quite soft, care must be taken when working with it. And also in the assembly process, you will need to cut and drill the material. The main thing here is to prepare in advance by marking with a construction marker.

When cutting material, we recommend using a clerical knife that is approximately 3 knife segments long so that the knife does not go to the side.
Since polycarbonate is a finished structure, it has stiffening ribs inside. Therefore, cutting can be difficult. The main thing here is experience. You can first take a small piece of polycarbonate and work with it, so to speak, to feel the material. And if you have a jigsaw, then, of course, use it.

Another important point in the assembly. The kit includes a steam pass tape. Be sure to use it. It will protect your greenhouse from excess moisture and dirt.

So, we have considered several types of greenhouses. Each of them has its own special and distinctive characteristics. And when building a greenhouse with your own hands, the best projects for yourself will be exactly those that will allow you to focus on your goals, objectives and opportunities. After all, it doesn’t matter what kind you have, the most important thing is that it is made with your own hands and will delight you and your loved ones with a wonderful harvest.

The greenhouse is as much a symbol of the modern age as space flights, computers with the Internet, robots and nuclear energy. This is not an exaggeration. According to WHO data for 1975, then 3/4 of the world's population lacked animal protein (without which, roughly speaking, a person becomes dumb and stupid), half were chronically malnourished, and a third, in addition, had never tasted either meat or fish, no eggs.

We still feel the consequences of malnutrition and malnutrition on a global scale today, but if the situation is not improving radically, then at least it is not significantly worsening, although less than 0.5 hectares of agricultural land per person remain on Earth. It is greenhouse farming that helps to hold out until better times (while still alive - hopefully!) the yield of fruit and vegetable crops in a greenhouse can be several times higher than in open ground(see fig.), and they harvest not in one gulp on a market day, but gradually all year round; this allows us to consistently meet demand and free up land for livestock farming.

Note: from the UN stuff. In the same 1975, UN experts zealously promoted vegetarianism. And last year they also recognized him as a mental disorder.

In turn, greenhouse agricultural technology was completely transformed quantitatively and qualitatively by a polycarbonate greenhouse. It is simple, cheap, durable and technologically advanced. In addition, if in the same 1975 expert tasters accurately separated greenhouse fruits and vegetables from ground fruits and vegetables, now they confuse them in about 50% of cases. This means that they do not feel a noticeable difference and speak at random. Under an indispensable condition: the test samples were grown in modern greenhouses using modern agricultural technologies. Which, in turn, in old greenhouses are either inefficient or simply not applicable. For example, a greenhouse made of wood and glass from drip-fog irrigation in it becomes completely unusable in 2-3 years.

Polycarbonate is a type of organic glass that reflects infrared (IR) rays well and thus can create a strong greenhouse effect. But he did not transform greenhouses on his own, but only after they learned how to produce it in the form of sheets of a honeycomb structure. This made it possible to create strong and resistant prestressed greenhouse structures on a lightweight frame; You can build a polycarbonate greenhouse in almost any climate, from the Sahara to the Putorana Mountains and from the Mojave Desert to Northern Labrador. Thanks to this, greenhouse farming has also become a public help: a greenhouse on a piece of land of a quarter of a hundred square meters is able to provide a family with fruits and herbs all year round and even provide a marketable surplus for sale.

Polycarbonate is easy to process, and the technology for creating structures with working skin from it is simple. With the widespread use of pipes made of engineering plastics and methods for their quick and durable connection, the construction of the frame has ceased to be a serious problem. Currently, there is a wide range of kits for assembling small garden greenhouses on sale, but - demand dictates prices! Therefore, everyone who wants to build a greenhouse with their own hands arrives: in the Penza region alone. number of self-made private greenhouses for 2009-2014 increased by more than 20 (!) times.

Note: engineering plastics - those that are able to bear mechanical operational loads for a long time. PVC, for example, with all its advantages, is not structural plastic, although it can be very useful in greenhouse business, which will be discussed later. Of the engineering plastics, polyisopropylene (PP) is most commonly used: it is not expensive, and its mechanical properties are comparable to steel. Further, unless otherwise specified, plastic will always be understood as PP.

There are different ways to build a greenhouse from PP, at least this:

Video: greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes

But we will further try to tell not only how to make a greenhouse yourself, but also how to design it, and without complicated calculations, and when building to avoid excessive costs and labor costs. Ready-made sets of parts are calculated for all occasions and therefore are not cheap, a design well developed by others in these specific circumstances may turn out to be unsuitable for any reason, and we will create our own greenhouse for our own local conditions, getting by with the minimum necessary.

We will focus primarily on polycarbonate greenhouses on a tubular plastic frame, as the most versatile. But there are a number of garden crops that can vegetate and bear fruit all year round at a relatively low above-zero temperature and relatively low light. These are people from the tropics who have taken root in temperate latitudes: cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, sweet peppers, zucchini, squash. We cultivate them as annuals, but in general they are evergreen and, with minimal heating costs, can produce marketable products for 9-10 months a year, and the demand for them is always good.

Such crops do not require high agricultural technologies, but they are afraid of overheating in summer; Here they need more fresh air and coolness. Therefore, and also for a number of other reasons, for their small-scale production and cultivation for their own consumption, the good old greenhouse made of wood is better suited, so we will also deal with them. We will not ignore the mini-greenhouses for table greens, flowers and seedlings, especially since you can arrange one in a city apartment.

Finally, greenhouse business is being improved not only by venerable specialists in large research centers. Craftsmen sometimes come up with designs that are surprisingly effective and promising; some of them will also be discussed.

Greenhouse or greenhouse?

Greenhouses with greenhouses are usually distinguished by size. Like, the greenhouse is large, you can enter it and work there like in a garden. And the greenhouse is small, you can only climb into it with your hands, and then squatting, so do pruning, hilling, etc. uncomfortable. But this is only a visible difference, and the essence is much deeper: a large building can be a greenhouse, and a small box can be a greenhouse.

Note: about appearance and essence. The famous ancient Greek philosopher-sophist was once asked: "What is a man?" He, after thinking, answered: "A biped without feathers." The next day, the students shook out of the bag in front of him ... a plucked chicken.

The greenhouse creates the so-called. spring awakening effect. To do this, the soil in it is deeply mulched with manure; the best is horse. As biofuels decompose, they heat the earth from within. Root heating of plants at a lower air temperature than on the soil surface, in combination with an excess of nitrogen, stimulates, first of all, the rapid growth of vegetation of its nutrient factory - green mass. If plants have their own supply depots (bulbs, rhizomes), then they are primarily spent on this, and root system while lagging behind in development. Figuratively speaking, plants do not yet think about fruiting under such conditions.

Greenhouses are used mainly for forcing and growing seedlings. Forcing is a process of controlled acceleration of vegetation; in some species - up to flowering. By distillation, for example, you can get onion feathers, fresh watercress and lilies of the valley by a predetermined date: New Year, March 8th. Plants are so exhausted from forcing that they either die or require a long rest in the vegetative phase. Distillation of table greens gives products of excellent quality if the planting material was environmentally friendly, because. plants take very little from the soil.

Note: the simplest full-fledged greenhouse for seedlings and forcing onions on greens can be built in half an hour or an hour, see fig. The fertile layer of soil is removed on a bayonet, folded into a pile. Another half bayonet is selected and a layer of manure is laid. The soil is laid back on top, a shelter is made of a film - and you're done! In central Russia, such a greenhouse produces products from about the end of March to mid-October or early November.

In the greenhouse, root heating takes place, but moderate. The main thing here is that the plants should feel the influx of warm, warmer than the soil, air from above and / or from the side. This creates a “mid-spring effect” whereby plants tend to produce as quickly as possible in order to start accumulating nutrients for the winter or dry season. Well, if a paradise with eternal spring is arranged for them, then you can “fatten” as much as you like without exhausting yourself, as long as there is enough soil nutrition: the root system is now working with might and main. This is the basis for the high productivity of the greenhouse economy.

Note: a greenhouse cannot be a greenhouse, but any greenhouse can become a greenhouse. In general, for this it is necessary to strengthen the soil heating and weaken the air. But the subtleties of handling distilled crops are already a topic from agricultural technology, and not the construction of greenhouses.

About refraction

Polycarbonate and silicate glass have a refractive index of light significantly more than 1. That is, the slopes of the greenhouse, the rays of the Sun falling on them, are directed inward at a steeper angle. On the one hand, this is good: in winter, the ramp works as a light concentrator - it collects oblique winter light over a larger area and directs it inward to a smaller one, see Fig.:

On the other hand, with a decrease in the slope of the slope, the degree of reflection of direct rays also increases. If the angle of their incidence decreases to a critical one, the so-called. angle of total reflection, then only half of the scattered light will pass inward, and the direct light will be completely reflected. Based on this:

• In mid-latitudes, the angle of inclination of the slopes must be chosen within 30-45 degrees from the horizontal.
• The further north the greenhouse is located, the steeper the slopes should be.
• Greenhouses of a conventional design must be made gable and oriented with a roof ridge from north to south, i.e. slopes to the east and west. In this case, the angle of incidence of most of the light that has passed inward onto the surface of the shadow slope will be less than the critical one and it will be reflected back inward.

Note: cellular polycarbonate has an additional advantage over glass in this respect - light refracts each of the layers of its structure and the degree of light concentration is higher. But the layers of polycarbonate are thinner than the thinnest glass, so its light transmission is almost the same as that of a single layer of glass.

How do plants sense light?

Radiation refraction in the coating of the greenhouse has another important role: it smooths out fluctuations in lighting and temperature in it during the day and season. Most horticultural crops are quite hardy to the amount of light and temperature, if they are kept more or less stable or change smoothly. But a sharp jump in any of these parameters of the plant is understood as a signal that unfavorable conditions are approaching. At the same time, their physiology switches from growth and fruiting algorithms to survival and accumulation of their own reserves: productivity drops, product quality deteriorates. A classic example is cucumbers. Let it not be for long, but it suddenly became colder or breathed with heat - everything became smaller and went bitter.

Own greenhouse

The first thing to start with is why do we need a greenhouse? What do we, speaking in Odessa, want to have from her? According to marketability, greenhouses are divided as follows:

1. Winter, or year-round - allow you to grow any crops all year round. To date, only durian and cherimoya are not physiologically amenable to greenhouse farming.
2. Seasonal capital, or semi-winter - give marketable products with Central Russia 8-10 months in a year. In these, either annuals or plants with physiology that require / endure a dormant period at sub-zero temperatures are cultivated.
3. Seasonal lightweight - the active phase of the production cycle for 2-3 months. shorter than semi-winter ones; usually they are meant by seasonal greenhouses. Cultivated in them, as a rule, early / late ordinary vegetables and herbs.
4. Temporary - used for growing seedlings in natural soil, forcing or for a one-two-three-fold crop of crops that greatly deplete the soil: root crops, strawberries, etc. When the site is developed, the greenhouse is dismantled, transferred to a new location, and the land is left to rest under fallow or sown with nitrogen-fixing crops, legumes, etc.
5. Greenhouses - they are put (it is difficult to call it a building) once for seedlings and forcing. How to make a greenhouse as such, said above. It is more difficult to arrange greenhouses for exotic flowers, for example. orchids or Gesneriaceae, but this topic is already from floriculture, and not gardening.

Note: phalaenopsis common in flower shops - only a few representatives of about 800 genera and more than 35,000 species of orchids, suitable for mass culture for cutting. The flowers of all orchids are long-lived and stand-up cut. Among them there are many such that in Hollywood there is not enough cocaine to purposely invent, on the left in fig. There are cases when rich connoisseurs paid $5,000 and even $20,000 for just 1 flower of a rare species. In countries where all sorts of rarities are loved, renting live flowering orchids in pots is a lucrative form of small business; rare orchids need to be groomed and nurtured until flowering for 7-8 years. Many orchids exude a delicate fragrance; vanilla is an orchid. Orchids grow up to the tundra, but in our area they are either small and do not catch the eye (for example, orchis), or very rare, like venus's shoes - cypripediums, in the center in fig. The Gesnerian culture is simpler, and they are also very showy and simply luxurious, on the right in fig. True, they are not suitable for cutting.

The purpose of the greenhouse determines the initial and operating costs for it. In winter, a capital foundation is needed with complete concreting of the underground part and insulation, as well as full lighting and heating. The cost of their heating is the lion's share of the current, so winter greenhouses are most cost-effective large size (from about 200 cubic meters) in large farms. The own heat reserve of a large greenhouse is enough to maintain the vital activity of plants, taking into account the greenhouse effect, for several days, up to 2 weeks. Therefore, heating systems for them do not rely on peak frosts, but on the average seasonal temperature, which is much higher.

The original version of the winter greenhouse is a greenhouse-greenhouse; it does not require constant heating in the middle latitudes at all. The mulch that decomposes under the soil layer heats the greenhouse. But its production cycle is difficult to vary, it is necessary to extract manure in large quantities 1-2 times a year, and food crops from it most often do not pass according to modern sanitary requirements, because. are oversaturated with nitrates. In the greenhouse phase of the cycle, only chives are more or less edible. Large hotbeds are used mainly as greenhouses, and small home gardens are used for cut flowers.

Note: in certain climatic conditions, it is possible to build a completely non-volatile winter greenhouse, the so-called. thermos greenhouses; a separate section will be devoted to them. But the complexity of construction and the cost of it for a thermos greenhouse turn out to be much higher than for a conventional one. True, exceptions are possible, see later in the same section.

Semi-winter greenhouses- also quite solid structures; the foundation is most often tape monolithic or from ready-made blocks of lightweight type, tk. the upper structure is light and is not afraid of uneven shrinkage. But the working area is illuminated and heated here only at the beginning and end of the season of use, and 6-7 months. The greenhouse operates on natural light and the greenhouse effect. The light lantern of a semi-winter greenhouse made of polycarbonate on a PP frame will be inexpensive and can last more than 15 years, and with minimal illumination and heating in such a one from Moscow and to the south, you can grow perennial subtropical crops up to citrus fruits; they still have a dormant period. Harvesting will be seasonal, and heating in the very cold to a slight plus will help the plants endure the winter.

seasonal greenhouses Most of all, they build themselves. Ordinary table crops, with skillful management in the Moscow region, give up to 10 months. per year, and to the south of Rostov-on-Don, they are able to function year-round. In both cases, the cost of light and heat will not exceed more than 2 times those for a city apartment of equal area. With a reduction in the time of use in the cold season, heat costs fall rapidly, so most of these greenhouses live up to their name. The profitability of seasonal greenhouses increases significantly if inexpensive solid fuel for stoves is available to the owners; see the section on heating greenhouses for more details.

Light lanterns of seasonal greenhouses are generally the same as those of semi-winter greenhouses, but the foundation is made light columnar. Most often, rolled metal is used for it (pipes, corners, channels), but it will last a period on a par with a greenhouse and very cheap wood, if pieces of timber or logs for it are boiled in bitumen for 10-20 minutes (scalded with bitumen) and before being installed in pits, their ends wrap with ruberoid. If the life of the greenhouse does not exceed 5-7 years, and the lantern is plastic, then it can be built without a foundation.

Temporary greenhouses and greenhouses use in the middle lane from about April to October. They grow fast-ripening crops in them; predominantly bulbous and root vegetables, as well as table greens. Make temporary greenhouses most often ground (see below) and cover with a film. Lighting and heating are not done, because. natural light is already / still enough for photosynthesis, and the greenhouse effect gives an increase of 7-12 degrees to the seasonal temperature.

Note: the degree of the greenhouse effect depends on the strength of the lighting, because. Plants release carbon dioxide during photosynthesis. Therefore, behind the light in the greenhouse you need an eye and an eye - less light, less carbon dioxide, it became colder, photosynthesis weakened, the greenhouse effect also weakened, it got colder, and so very quickly until freezing.

Greenhouse and soil

The next factor to keep in mind when, so to speak, preliminary consideration of the greenhouse is the nature of the use of the soil. According to it, greenhouses are divided into soil, box and trench or bulk.

Ground, as the name implies, are built directly on the ground. They are temporary and seasonal. The basis of such a greenhouse is simple: wooden formwork 200-300 mm high on a flat area, see fig. Outside, the formwork is supported with pins made of reinforcing bars, on which the ends of the arcs of the lantern from pipes are put on. The frame of the lantern is lightweight, designed for more or less favorable weather conditions. Cover it mainly with a film.

Fertile soil is poured into the formwork; mulch if necessary. As the soil is depleted, its top layer is selected and changed. Such agriculture will last no more than 5-7 years: the smaller the plot of land, the more difficult and expensive it is to maintain its fertility for a long time. But by that time, the formwork will rot, the film, if it is not disposable (see below), will wear out, and the frame of the greenhouse is made collapsible or, if it is made of PP pipes, completely transferred by two or three to a new place.

The box greenhouse is suitable for all greenhouse crops for at least 10 years; theoretically - forever. This is achieved by the fact that the reinforced formwork is filled up with crushed stone along the waterproofing, on which boxes are placed filled with earth, with perforated bottoms. The depleted earth from the boxes is simply thrown away and a new one is poured. Excess irrigation water flows into the rubble and then into the drainage. Thus, the scourge of non-professional greenhouse farms is excluded - acidification of the soil from the cold from below. If there is no drainage system on the site, then the drain of the greenhouse is taken out into a cesspool attached to it. Use wastewater it is impossible to re-irrigate, harmful micro-animals are teeming in them!

Most highly profitable home-made greenhouses are box-type. The production of formwork and foundation for a box greenhouse is also possible from wood (see Fig.), because. in this case, it almost does not contact the soil and is less exposed to harmful effects. If lumber, in addition to being treated with biocides, is also soaked twice with hot bitumen, then the formwork will last 12-15 years. For a longer estimated service life, it is better with a blind area (for a semi-winter greenhouse - with insulation) and build a brick base on it.

Note: for plants with a superficial root system (onions, radishes, carrots, melons, watermelons), the boxes can be on stands. Then the greenhouse can be multi-storey, in whole or in part.

A trench greenhouse is, roughly speaking, a series of concrete gutters (trenches) with technological passages between them. They are cast together with the foundation and covered with a common lantern. In each trench, crushed stone drainage is made with access to a cesspool or a collector common to the site, and earth is poured on top of it. Plots for different crops in trenches are separated by removable partitions reaching the drainage layer.

Caring for a trench greenhouse is more difficult than a box greenhouse, and the likelihood of the spread of diseases in it is greater, which requires quite skillful agricultural technology. But with proper construction, soil cooling from below is completely excluded even on permafrost. In addition, it is possible to cultivate plants with a powerful deep root system, up to woody ones. Therefore, most of all winter and semi-winter greenhouses are built with trenches in places with a harsh climate.

Note: the author knows a resident of the Kola Peninsula, who, on income from potatoes, onions, garlic and tomatoes from a makeshift trench greenhouse, built himself a mansion of 230 residential squares in 5 years. When asked: “Mortgage?”, He asked in response: “What is it?”

When Form Matters

The most important factor determining the functionality of a greenhouse is the configuration of its lantern. In terms of the variety of architectural forms, greenhouses can compete with public buildings, but they most often build frame greenhouses-houses on their own, pos. 1 in the figure, tunnel faceted, pos. 2, and tunnel arches with semicircular (pos. 3) and lancet (pos. 4) arcs of arches.

small house

In the greenhouse-house, the entire operational load is carried by the frame, so the glazing can be of any kind. With the required strength for a backyard greenhouse, the simplest technologically and cheapest is a wooden frame. Modern methods of processing commercial wood make it possible to achieve its durability in greenhouse conditions up to 30-40 years. The best type of wood for construction is larch.

The easiest way to make a wooden greenhouse-house is fully ventilated; this is important for summer greenhouse cultivation, see above. The roof at a high standing of the Sun slightly shade the plants and cuts off the ultraviolet, which protects them from burns. In the southern regions, sometimes the roof slopes in the very heat are also covered with gauze or old washed sheets.

The roof of a wide-open greenhouse-house plays another role: an excess of carbon dioxide is formed in the greenhouse, because. it is heavier than air, and when heated, it cannot go up. For plants, this is like caviar for cognac: the harvest is rampant, and the fruits are one to one.

In regions with a sharply continental climate, a wooden greenhouse-house will be the best choice, especially if local lumber is cheap. In Yakutia (Republic of Sakha), for example, it is very hot in summer and watermelons have time to ripen on a layer of soil 20-30 cm above the permafrost. Small, with a large apple or orange, but it tastes like watermelon like watermelon.

Note: Yakut watermelons may seem incredible, but we, without limiting ourselves to verbal assurances, refer the reader to Yu. Yuri Konstantinovich is not related.

Watermelons and melons come from deserts, they are able to develop as semi-ephemera, quickly. However, it is useless to experiment with tomatoes, cucumbers and radishes in the open ground of Yakutia: the warm season is not enough for ripening, the roots either reach the permafrost and the plant withers, or the sun burns it - the air is clean, transparent, UV burns. A fully hinged greenhouse-house allows you to create a suitable microclimate at the right time for early ripening varieties. True, with heating at the beginning / end of the season, but here the fuel is inexpensive, and the sale of products is ensured.

A drawing with a frame specification for a winter-semi-winter wooden greenhouse suitable for installation on permafrost in a harsh climate is shown in fig. In European Russia, a greenhouse-house can be significantly lightened and its frame can be made from improvised materials, for example. old window frames, see below.

Note: a wooden greenhouse with polycarbonate is by no means at enmity. On the contrary, lightweight but durable polycarbonate takes on some of the operational loads, which silicate glass is not capable of. At current prices, polycarbonate coating will cost less than glazing, and the entire wooden greenhouse under polycarbonate will be stronger and cheaper.

faceted tunnel

Greenhouse houses have a significant drawback, which manifests itself in places with low insolation: when the Sun is low, the angle of incidence of its rays on the slopes is close to optimal once a day for a short time. Simply put, the greenhouse-house does not concentrate the light well and turns out to be a bit dark in winter. In an attempt to solve this problem, a faceted tunnel greenhouse appeared.

It is impractical to make the frame of a faceted tunnel from plastic, because The mechanical properties of PP turn out to be the best in the case when the cross-links of the frame are prestressed, i.e. if the frame arcs are curvilinear. Therefore, a faceted tunnel is, as a rule, a metal greenhouse made of pipes, sheathed with polycarbonate; pipes can be round, but profile pipes are more often used. However, here the problem of the joints of the frame elements arises.

Welds under greenhouse conditions are intensively corroded, especially external ones, sandwiched between the pipe and the casing. Non-destructive visual inspection in such places is not possible, so the frame is prone to sudden failure.

Note: don't try to make steel frames prestressed - regular rolled steel is completely unsuitable for this use! Have you heard of metal fatigue and fluidity?

In the industrial production of metal greenhouses, welding is generally abandoned, and frames are assembled on shaped plastic connectors, on the left in Fig. These are sold separately, but they are expensive and require an additional large amount of fasteners, so home-made steel frames of greenhouses are still welded, but without external seams: the workpiece is cut at an angle, bent and cooked from the inside, on the right in Fig. This requires special accuracy and accuracy in the calculation of the frame and the marking of the workpieces, but the weakened joints are immediately visible, because. the weld seam rusts faster than solid metal.

Speaking of connections

In greenhouse frames, except for wooden ones, it is impossible to drill holes and drive fasteners into them: a sharp difference in environmental conditions inside and outside will give centers of corrosion and / or dangerous mechanical stresses in such places. Non-wood frames are assembled by welding or special connecting nodes. In plastic branded kits for self-assembly, the parts in the connectors are still fixed with self-tapping screws, because. a set that requires special tools for assembly, few will buy. But serious manufacturers carefully calculate the location of the fasteners, the entire design is modeled on computers, and the prototype is run through full-scale tests before the series. And frivolous locals, not bothering themselves with painful thoughts about copyrights, simply copy the worked models.

arched tunnels

The greenhouse-tunnel of semicircular arches is the easiest to manufacture, the most wind-resistant and best of all concentrates the light. Pay attention again to pos.3 fig. with greenhouse shapes: most of the semi-circular sides seem darkish. This means that most of the light went inward and did its useful work there. And in the summer, in the heat with a high Sun, an almost flat roof gives the same effect as that of a greenhouse-house.

The material consumption of a semi-circular greenhouse and the cost of its construction are also minimal, however, snow resistance is low, and in places with a large snow load, incidents like the one in Fig. are possible, even if the structure is structurally completely correct. Therefore, in regions with heavy snow, it would be more correct to build an lancet greenhouse. It will cost 3-5% more, but it is easy to make several large vents for summer ventilation, which is important east of the Urals, mountains and rivers.

Any arch shows all its advantages only when it is tense, operational load as part of the structure or previously. For a greenhouse, as a light one-story structure, only the second option is possible. At the same time, the excellent mechanical qualities of PP are fully manifested in parts made of prestressed pipes. In combination with a working polycarbonate cladding, this brings greenhouses from it on a plastic tubular frame to a record ratio of strength, resistance and durability to cost. This implies another record - the popularity of structures of this type. Therefore, a little lower we will deal with them in more detail, but for now we will briefly consider one more arch.

Profile arch

In thin-walled three-dimensional parts, with bending radii characteristic of arched greenhouses, stresses in ordinary steel turn out to be far from its yield strength, on the one hand. On the other hand, galvanized C- and U-profiles for drywall are inexpensive, lightweight, and assembling a greenhouse frame from a profile of this type (see Fig.) seems to be elementary: a Phillips screwdriver and metal scissors are enough. When hardened with struts and crossbars, the “fresh” design comes out quite strong, even stronger than from PP pipes. And the skin can be attached to it not with clamps (see below), but somehow simpler and easier.

However, the first disappointments await the profile enthusiast already during assembly. Firstly, you have to twist a lot of screws and they are expensive. And the fingers cramped into a claw and bleeding calluses simply scream: “Well, buy, finally, you, the owner of such a screwdriver!” Secondly, the blanks marked manually and cut without a profile cutter (and there are a lot of them!) Do not connect exactly and the whole frame goes, as they say, sideways. In production, it’s easier, where the computer will calculate, transfer the data to the robot stamp, and the robot will cut it perfectly, it simply doesn’t know how badly.

But the most important disappointment awaits even before the end of the first season: the frame is rusting before our eyes. What, it would seem, should be read immediately in the specification for the profiles - they are not intended, like drywall, for outdoor use ...

plastic arches

Snow and wind...

Correctly arranging and assembling the plastic greenhouse itself is possible only if you know the wind and snow loads on it at the place of construction. The maps in fig. With the numerical values ​​of the loads, as they say, do not bother and do not expect complex formulas in the future: everything has already been reduced to the numbers of the load zones. If one of them is indicated in the text, it means the largest in this place. For example, the greenhouse will be in the 2nd wind and 6th snow zone, or vice versa. Then you need to do it for the 6th zone; features in snow and wind, if in this case they are, are negotiated.

frame

Branded greenhouse frames are assembled from special pipes on shaped connectors (see, for example, Fig.): glasses, flat and three-coordinate crosses, straight and oblique tees, splitters for several angles. They are on sale, but they are expensive and, as a rule, are designed for a specific design. Pushing around in an attempt to adapt it for yourself, you still have to buy the rest to complete the set. Which immediately and entirely would be half the price.

We will go the other way. We will get by with 3/4 inch PP water pipes and cheap connectors for them sold everywhere: straight couplings, flat tees and right angles. We will connect the details, as well as. Renting a soldering iron (more precisely, a welding machine) for propylene is inexpensive, it consumes little electricity (plugs into a regular outlet), and you can learn how to weld PP in half an hour. The finished frame of this design will come out no worse than the branded one, but much cheaper. A novice master will be able to assemble it over the weekend. Since aerodynamics and icing are more important for the greenhouse than the weight of the upper floors, the frame is designed according to aeronautical rather than building principles. Good planes fly, sometimes longer than an ordinary house costs.

Zero cycle

The main thing about preparing the base of the greenhouse has already been said earlier. It is only necessary to add that the site for the greenhouse must be planned with an accuracy of 5 cm / m, otherwise the probability of soil acidification increases. If the greenhouse is not ground, after planning, a soil slope of 6-8 cm / m is formed towards the drain into the drainage. For lightweight greenhouses, the slope is formed before the gravel formwork is installed, and for capital greenhouses, after the strip foundation is poured. The slopes of the drains of winter trench greenhouses and thermos greenhouses are formed by a screed of their floors. Don't forget about slope waterproofing!

The arcs of the arches of the considered design are tightly put on the pins of reinforcing bars protruding upwards by 40-50 cm. It is not necessary to make a ledge less, the arcs will not hold well. More - also not necessary, bent incorrectly. Under the lightweight greenhouse, the rebars are driven into the ground close to the formwork by 1 m or more, and under the capital they are walled up in the foundation for the same 40-50 cm. in the thickness of the formwork boards.

Note: in zones 1-3, the thresholds of the door and window frames are also attached to the formwork with clamps and self-tapping screws. In the upper zones, frames are made without thresholds, and their racks are put on pins from reinforcement, like arcs.

How to make a frame?

Dimensions

The standard lengths of water pipes are 6, 5 and 4 m. They form semicircular arches with a span of 3.6, 3 and 2.3 m, taking into account cutting waste and shrinkage of welding joints. These values ​​should guide the calculation of the overall dimensions of the greenhouse. Lancet arches are more reliable if the snow zone is 4th and higher. Then they go, on the contrary, from the size: the arch is drawn to scale on a graph paper (the upper corner is always straight in this case!), The length of its wing is measured with a curvimeter, a flexible ruler or laying out along the contour of a thick thread, followed by measurement, and transferred to the length of the workpiece. 20 cm are added for trimming-shrinkage. You can do the opposite: measure a piece of soft wire (for example, a copper winding wire with a diameter of 0.8-1.2 mm) on a scale, bend it as it should on a graph paper and beat off the arc wing profile on it .

Assembly

The arcs of the arches are assembled straight on a flat surface. They are put in place one by one; during the assembly process, a ridge and longitudinal load-bearing beams are mounted - stringers, pos. 1 in fig. Door and window frames, pos. 2 are assembled separately on corners, tees and straight couplings. Couplings - the basis of hinges and latches; sections of frame racks are welded into the nozzles of the couplings. Then, hinges and latches from pipe segments of a larger diameter are attached to the coupling bodies with self-tapping screws. In this case, it is possible, because there will be no permanent loads in these places, and malfunctions of hinges with latches do not affect the strength of the frame and are easily eliminated. The assembly of door panels and vents begins by threading their rear pillars into the hinge holders, then the rest is added by weight. They are sheathed with anything, on self-tapping screws in the frames of the paintings, because and these nodes are not load-bearing.

The lightest frame of this type is shown in pos. 3. Pay attention - the ridge beam, like the stepped stringers, is assembled from pipe sections on tees. In this case, the door and window frames are also fastened on tees flush with the gables.

How often to put arcs?

The installation step of the arcs is determined as follows:

• If zones 1 and 1, take a step of 1100 mm.
• In other cases, put the zone numbers and get the summary number of the load zone N.
• With the largest zone up to the 3rd inclusive, 4800 is divided by N, and the resulting value is rounded to the nearest smaller integer, a multiple of 50, and the step is obtained in millimeters; e.g. for 2 and 3 zones it will be 950 mm, and for 3 and 3 - 800 mm.
• If the largest zone is 4 or 5, 5600 is divided by N; further - similarly to 2 and 3 zones.
• In the largest 6 and 7 zones, 5500 is divided by N.

The dependence of the arc step on the zone, as we see, is non-linear. This is explained by the fact that as the zone number increases, stringers take on an increasing load, see below. So the design comes out a little more material-intensive, but significantly less labor-intensive.

Note 15: The 8th zone, both of which, generally speaking, is problematic. Here, it happens that snow breaks concrete floors, and the wind shifts houses from foundations. Any independent construction here is carried out at your own peril and risk, and this applies to greenhouses in full. How to get out, with a certain degree of risk, will be said later in the course of the presentation.

Gain

You can rely on the lightest frame with some apprehension in 1-2 zones, but even here it is desirable to reinforce it with at least a couple of stringers. The schemes of their location for different zones are shown in pos. A-V. Do not forget only that the coordinates are given for the longitudinal axes of the ties, and the beams themselves are stepped, like the ridge beam. With this in mind (and shrinkage for welding), it is necessary to mark the workpieces.

Attention! Pairs of stringers of the same level are always made in mirror image, pos. E!

In the 6th zone, the upper pairs of stringers are connected with crossbars (pos. E), in the 7th, the ends of the tunnel on both sides are reinforced at the bottom with braces according to the 2-1 scheme (see Fig.) In the 8th, you need to reinforce according to the 3-2 scheme -1 (see ibid), but, again, without any guarantee. It is useless to increase the number of stringers in the upper zones: figuratively speaking, they begin to push loads away from each other and, in general, the structure weakens.

How to put braces without a gusset? Moreover, the angles are fractional? Using homemade galvanized clamps 0.5-0.7 mm, see fig. on right. The workpiece is bent in a U-shape, mandrels are inserted into it from segments of a steel pipe and the ears are pressed with a vise. It is convenient to use 2 pairs of vices: in stationary desktops, they squeeze a long ear, and with smaller adjustable ones, a short one.

After crimping, the mandrel is removed, the clamp is cut to size and shape, and holes are drilled for M6 bolts. Such handicraft crimping is obtained with a shortage, but here it is only for the better: compressed by bolts in place, the clamp and pipes will grab tightly, and it will acquire monstrous rigidity for such a thin metal.

Arrows and legs

The location of the stringers on the lancet arcs is determined based on the basic semicircular with the same span, as shown in pos. E. Please note that this method is only valid for arrows with a 90 degree tip angle! You can’t make the arrowhead single without a gusset, well, you don’t need to. An additional pipe, corners and tees for a two-beam ridge, pos. I. Its halves are performed, like stringers, in a mirror. The offset from the top is the maximum; beams need to be moved as close to it as possible, according to the size of the available tees and the skills of PP welding. By the way, it is easiest to bring out both the chimney and the semicircular arch through the double ridge, it will make it stronger.

If the arches rest on vertical legs no higher than 60 cm, counting from the top of the reinforcement, then an additional stringer is placed at the junction of their wings with legs, pos D. Reinforcement in zones 7 and 8 is performed according to the same schemes, shifting one cell down, those. there should not be empty cells under reinforced ones. If the legs are higher than 0.6 m - alas! - must be considered especially, because the bottom of the frame will no longer work as a continuation of the arches, but as a separate box.

Door and window

In zones starting from the 3rd, it is necessary, and in the lower ones it is highly desirable to fasten the door and window frames not directly to the arc (slightly beveled tees create undesirable stresses in the frame), but hang them in it on half-bars and short longitudinal holders, pos. K, K1, K2. Such a mount, to an inexperienced eye, seems rather weak, but remember: a still working sheathing made of durable polycarbonate will fall on the gables. Ultimately, the frame will be no weaker and will last no less than the DC-3 or An-2 fuselage.

And under the film?

The current film greenhouses are not at all the flimsy disposable "polyethylene" of the past. A greenhouse cover made of modern reinforced film will last 5-7 years and will cost several times cheaper than a hard polycarbonate one. The special greenhouse film has another valuable property: hydrophilicity. It retains a layer of moisture up to 2 mm on its surface, which improves the transparency of the coating and enhances the greenhouse effect. Thanks to this, a modern film greenhouse can be seasonal and even semi-winter. It does not cause problems and airing film greenhouses in the heat: it is enough to tuck the edges of the canopy; they do not need a door with a window. In general, for places with a mild and temperate climate, a greenhouse under a film is the best option, but in others it makes no sense to build it.

The frame described above will go perfectly under the film. It has quite an aircraft margin of safety, and when calculating for a film, it is enough to take the zone numbers 1 higher. The pillars of the door and window frames must be left, see Fig., because they take part of the load. You can fasten the Velcro to the racks not with self-tapping screws, as in the figure, but with clamps made of thin soft wire. Not so aesthetically pleasing, but simpler, cheaper and no less reliable. If with self-tapping screws, then it is better to install direct couplings under the Velcro and wrap the self-tapping screws into their thickened cases.

Rigid roof

Film greenhouses justify themselves mainly in cases where they are temporarily installed for a relatively short period of time. For example, someone bought a plot for a forest plantation or pasture for livestock. As now with loans - everyone knows. In order to raise funds for its development, I decided to wait 3-4 years, and for the time being, rent out the land inexpensively. This is where subtenants and a farmer colleague can help out, and it’s not bad to profit from it yourself.

For long-term use, greenhouses with a rigid polycarbonate coating are more profitable. With an estimated service life of 20 years (and this is not the limit), it will cost less than 2-3-fold replacement of the film cover. In addition, you do not need to mess with its washing, removal and installation twice a year and allocate space for its winter storage. So let's take a closer look at polycarbonate.

It has already been said above that the greenhouse, in terms of its coverage, differs from other structures in a sharp difference in environmental conditions inside and outside. A coating up to several cm thick has to withstand the same loads as a half-meter stone wall. Therefore, the methods of working with polycarbonate for a greenhouse are somewhat different from them for and. How to cut polycarbonate for a greenhouse, gives an idea of ​​the video:

How do you attach it to the frame?

We will consider only individual points that are insufficiently covered in well-known sources.

Structure

Cellular polycarbonate slabs are produced in different thicknesses and structures. Plates of the same thickness can be of different structure, and vice versa. The 2R structure (see Fig.) is unsuitable for greenhouses either in terms of heat-insulating or mechanical qualities.

Structures of type R (without diagonal connections in cells) are more transparent than type RX, but they hold dynamic loads worse, therefore they are suitable for places where the wind zone is not higher than the 4th one. 3R is used where the average winter temperature is above -15 degrees or frost is below -20 for more than a day no more than once every 3 years. In other cases, you need to take 5R.

The temperature ranges for 3RX and 6RX are the same, but in cases where the wind zone is 5th and higher. For any 8th zone, the only acceptable option is 6RX. 5RX does not need to be taken, it is not very transparent. 6RX and was designed to replace the 5RX in greenhouses.

The thickness of the plates is determined as follows:

• If both zones are not higher than the 2nd, we take 6 mm.
• For other cases, we find the summary number N, as for the frame.
• For the 3rd and 4th largest zones, N is left as is.
• For the largest 5 and 6 zones, we take N + 1.
• If there is a 7 or 8 zone, we take N + 2.
• The resulting value is multiplied by 2.
• The result is rounded up to the nearest higher standard slab thickness.

Thus, for example, for 4 and 4 zones, a thickness of 16 mm is obtained, and for 8 and 8 - 40 mm. However, there are no both 8 zones in the Russian Federation.

sheathing

The standard dimensions of polycarbonate slabs are 6x2.1 m and 12x2.1 m. The general dimensions of the greenhouse are chosen such that an overhang of at least 10 cm is formed above the gables of the arched and faceted houses and along the entire perimeter of the roof of the houses. According to SNiP, the overhang should be at least 15 cm. If the greenhouse is commercial and you intend to obtain a sanitary certificate for the products, please note that the inspectors and the greenhouse will check the entire form.

The radii of curvature of the greenhouse arches allow the slabs of the most commonly used structures 3R and 5R to be laid on the frame both along and across. How would be more correct? And so, and so. It all depends on what loads in a given place are greater, static from snow or dynamic from wind. If the number of the snow zone is greater than the wind zone, it is better to lay it across, on the left in Fig. Otherwise - along, on the right there.

Note: RX structures are only laid lengthwise, otherwise sudden failure of the coating due to material fatigue is possible.

Longitudinal joints are assembled on standard FP (straight) and RP (ridge) connectors, depending on the bending radius in a given place. It is desirable to seal the upper gaps of the joints with building silicone, marked with yellow circles. It is better to take one-piece connectors, they are cheaper and there is nothing to rust in them. In extreme cases, it is still possible to separate the joint by dripping it with brake fluid and pulling the plates along in different directions.

When sheathing across, some of the seams between the plates may be hanging. In this case, the plates are connected in a known amateur way (shown in the inset): strips of flexible plastic 3-6 mm thick with sealing gaskets made of rubber or silicone and self-tapping screws. It is better to take strips and an overlay for a joint from PVC. It is strong enough, reliable and resistant for such a case. But its main advantage is in the junction - PVC quite quickly sticks tightly to the gasket and it never squeezes out from under the lining.

Mounts

Methods for attaching polycarbonate to the frame with thermal washers (pos. 1-3 in the figure) have been described many times and we will not dwell on the details. We only note that if the sheathing is longitudinal, then both ends of the plates must be pasted over with perforated self-adhesive tape and framed with an end profile.

The frame of the greenhouse, as indicated above, is highly undesirable to weaken with holes and fasteners. The skin is attached to it with clamps made of steel 1.5-3 mm thick, pos. 4 and 5. A strip 40-60 mm wide is bent along the mandrel in a U-shape, clamped together with the mandrel in a vice and the mustache is bent. The bend must be done taking into account the thickness of the rubber gaskets, and they, in turn, according to the wall thickness of the cage connectors of the frame. The thermal gap between the plates 3-5 mm wide is filled with silicone sealant.

Hut from the windows

The greenhouse from the frames of unusable windows appeared during the mass construction of Khrushchev. Firstly, then the carpentry for new buildings was of the most vile quality: “Come on with the plan! Val come on! The current generation of people will live under communism!” Therefore, many new settlers immediately changed the windows-doors to custom ones, since the materials and work then cost a penny. Secondly, the workers, i.e. officially permanently employed, summer cottages were then distributed to everyone right and left. Thirdly, penny state prices and availability are by no means and by no means friends. It is appropriate here to recall an old Soviet political anecdote. The chairman of the collective farm "Light of Ilyich" opens the general meeting: "Comrades! We have two issues on the agenda: the repair of the cowshed and the construction of communism. On the first question: there are no boards, no nails, no bricks, no cement, no lime. Let's move on to the second question.

We will move on to technical issues, they are of some use. Now, too, many windows are being replaced with metal-plastic with double-glazed windows, but the frames are still strong. Of these, you can assemble a completely reliable and durable house, if you help the frames a little to carry the load. It’s not worth covering such a structure in Khrushchev’s style with a disposable film, it’s better to spend money on a couple of sheets of inexpensive 3R 6 mm polycarbonate, which, with a greenhouse size of about 6x3 m, will make it possible to do for the roof, except for the gables, with just one roof truss. We will get a completely seasonal and commercial greenhouse for zones up to the 4th inclusive, i.e. for most of the territory of the Russian Federation suitable for agricultural use.

The design of the frame of the greenhouse under the frame is shown in fig. for clarity, the proportions of parts are given arbitrarily. Dimensions in plan - 5.7x2.7 m; internal space - 5.4x2.4 m. It will be needed for it, in addition to polycarbonate and frames, 15-16 boards 150x40 mm 6 m long and 1 beam 150x150 mm of the same length; only 0.675 cu. m of softwood, and about 5 kg of nails 70, 100 and 150 mm.

The foundation is a wooden columnar, of 6 pillars in 2 rows 1 m long. A beam is needed just for the foundation. The protrusion of the pillar at the highest point of the site above the ground is 30 cm; the rest are aligned with it by the hydraulic level. It is not necessary to deepen the pillars according to the calculation of freezing, the structure will play along with the ground for many years, it was checked on Khrushchev's "polyethylene".

The beams of the lower support frame - grillage - and the upper - strapping - are sewn on nails from boards as usual, in a zigzag, pos 1. The driving step in a row is 250-400 mm. The grillage is assembled into a prefabricated spike, and the harness into the prefabricated quarter (pos. 2) is also on nails, 5 envelopes per corner. Trimmings of boards measuring 150x150 dissolve into three, these sticks will come in handy later.

Next, the grillage is mounted on the foundation and 2 boards are spread in three lengths. Here, from the new tree, you will have to go to the old one, sort the frames. 8 solid highest ones (and preferably 10, if there is one), set aside immediately (on the left in the figure), they will go to the corners and, if there are 2 more, to frame the doorway. The rest are scattered over the estimated area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls somehow, if only there were fewer holes, on the right in fig.

Now, from the 50x40 rail, 4 racks are cut into the height of the tallest frame plus 10 mm and nailed to the grillage vertically at the corners flush with their outer sides. The corners are sheathed on the outside with boards with a height of now racks plus 220 mm (grillage height + strapping height). The strapping is laid in the nest that has turned out at the top and the entire box is finally sewn with nails.

Frames are installed starting from the corners. How to fasten them to the box and to each other is shown in pos. 3-5. Approaching from 2 sides to the places of the future door and swing window, they put the racks of the door and window frames from solid boards. They are fastened to the grillage, strapping and adjacent frames with nails using the same scrap bars. On them, if necessary, you can dissolve another 1-2 boards.

Now it's time for the roof. Rafter trusses are made according to pos. 6. Polycarbonate is laid on the roof along. A longitudinal strip 40 cm wide is cut from each slab. In this case, roof overhangs of about 15 cm are formed, and the strips will go to the sheathing of the gables.

The penultimate stages of work, firstly, close the gaping openings in the walls with foam plastic, and foam all the gaps. Foam in this case is not only a sealant and insulation; it will give the whole structure additional connectivity and strength. Secondly, they measure the dimensions of the door and vents in place and make their frames according to fig. on right.

Before the drainage device and the launch of the greenhouse, it remains to arrange the base. In Khrushchev's times, slate or roofing material was put on it, sprinkled with earth on the outside. It is easier for us: now there is such a wonderful (without irony) material as empty plastic bottles. From they are simply stuffed under the grillage with the necks inside, only the plugs do not need to be removed. You will get excellent thermal insulation with ventilation, absolute manufacturability with maintainability and long-term durability; environmentalists all over the world are ready to howl, what should they do with these bottles. And we are free.

Note: this type of box will also go under a disposable plastic film, only it needs to be reinforced with the same 50x40 rails, see fig:

Bottled

Plastic bottles are made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Among the remarkable qualities of this material, there is a unique one: it transmits UV almost without loss. This allows you to enhance the greenhouse effect and thereby reduce heating costs and extend the operating cycle of the greenhouse. Therefore, if it is possible to get at least 400 PET containers, it makes complete sense to make a greenhouse entirely from bottles.

There are 3 options here. The first is to dissolve the bottles into sheets on long winter evenings and sew them on a typewriter with nylon or, better, propylene threads into panels of a suitable size, pos. 1 in fig. Stitching with a furniture stapler, as is sometimes advised, is not worth it: staples will cost more than threads and rust pretty quickly. You can also find tips to sew not with a thread, but with a fishing line. If their authors know where to get a machine that sews with a fishing line, or they themselves know how to sew with their hands at the same speed, then it doesn’t matter - the fishing line both in length and in weight will cost many times more than threads, and the seam will not drag out, because. the line is solid, not twisted.

The second option is to assemble something like sausages from bottles (fig. on the right), string them on steel bars and fill the frame frame with such “kebabs” vertically, with their necks down, so that condensate drains, or horizontally, pos. 2 and 3 in fig. with types of bottle greenhouses. If the street is below +10, there will be no sense from such a greenhouse without sealing the gaps between the bottles, but with spring warmth it will give a greater concentration of light, which will accelerate the development of plants.

The third option - the bottles are stacked horizontally with their necks inside, pos. 4. Thermal insulation and light concentration are maximized (even houses are built this way), but you need not hundreds, but thousands of bottles. They are connected with glue or cement, which is laborious and expensive, so bottle greenhouses, so to speak, horizontal, are rare.

Is it possible in winter without heating?

The greenhouse loses a lot of heat, and its heating costs a pretty penny. The marketability of self-heating greenhouses is very limited by an excess of nitrates in the soil. In order to obtain products that meet modern sanitary standards without winter heating, a thermos greenhouse was invented.

It was invented not at all by Ukrainian craftsmen today, as ukrnet is broadcasting with might and main, but in Israel more than half a century ago. By the way, it was for thermos greenhouses that we had to come up with the same cellular polycarbonate and special thermal blocks that combine good insulating and mechanical properties. From a bare idea to a workable design, most often it takes a very long time ...

Israel is the world leader in greenhouses. Greenhouses are built there in deserts and mountains. In summer, the ground surface heats up to +60, and in winter it can be -20 for a short time. And the idea itself is that in the soil at a certain depth a constant temperature is maintained, equal to the average annual temperature in this place; in the subtropics it is about + 18-20. With an increase of 7-12 degrees from the greenhouse effect, we get just the optimum for plants up to pineapples.

The thermos is only the upper belt of the underground structure of the greenhouse, see fig. Lower, ordinary concrete, in essence air conditioning. In winter, mother earth warms it, and in summer, hot light will not flow into the pit with cool dense air. As a result, the temperature in the greenhouse can be regulated only by vents without the cost of heating and air conditioning. To enhance lighting in winter, we orient one roof slope to the south, and cover the other from the inside with aluminum foil.

In the temperate zone, the situation is different. Firstly, although the average annual here is about +15, however, heating depends not only on temperature, but also on the incoming heat flow. In order to get to the “air conditioner” of the required power, you have to go down beyond the freezing depth by at least 2 m. Already in the Rostov region, this requires a pit of 2.5 m. Secondly, peak colds do not last hours, but days . Therefore, the volume of the greenhouse needs a large one. In the same Rostov region. the minimum dimensions of the pit in terms of - 5x10 m.

With such fifty, indeed, in our area you can harvest 400-600 kg of pineapples and up to 1.5 tons of bananas per year. How to sell them? Okay, let's say we live in some distant kingdom, where consumer control for a moderate bribe in the national currency is always ready to gladly and willingly issue heroin as food supplement, and weapons-grade plutonium is like children's toys.

But half a ton of even small pineapples per piece will give about 1000 fruits. How much is 1 (one) pineapple? In a supermarket, with a branded sticker and a quality certificate for the batch? How often and how many pineapples are bought? When, in this scenario, will only the excavation of 120-130 cubic meters of soil pay off? In general, a backyard thermos greenhouse in the boreal zone can be classified as a project in which common sense and sober calculation are completely replaced by an indefatigable desire to achieve something uterine, contrary to the obvious.

Of much greater interest is a small ground-based thermos greenhouse with its own heat accumulator in the form of a heater, operating on the principle of a solar oven with a heat storage device, see fig. on right. At -5 outside, its interior near Moscow can warm up to +45. Therefore, in the arch there is a sliding hatch-temperature regulator with a clapper valve and a deflector that diverts a cold stream from plants to the zone of greatest heating.

The upper clapperboard should be triggered by the slightest breath back and forth, so its sash is made extremely light, freely moving and spring-loaded to zero balance in the closed position with a thin, 0.15-0.25 mm, steel wire. The cracker still does not save from frost, so the hatch-regulator must be closed manually at night.

The indicated dimensions are minimum; the greenhouse can be made bigger. If it is made in the form of a ridge, but for every full and incomplete 1.5 m of length along the front, you need your own hood with an air duct so that the heater warms up evenly. So, a greenhouse 2 m long should have 2 air ducts and 2 hoods. You don’t need to pull the hood high up, it’s still not a stove; the thrust here is minimal, if only the heated air seeps through the heater.

When to Minimize

The mini-greenhouse is used firstly in city apartments. Here, a part of the insulated balcony or loggia is taken under it. It is better to make a partition from the same polycarbonate. Boxes with earth are hung on the wall; at the same time, it is possible to grow exotic flowers and supply the family with radishes, strawberries, and greens in winter.

In crop production, mini-greenhouses are used to create special conditions for a certain group of plants. In an ordinary box greenhouse, for this it is enough to nail arcs from a metal-plastic pipe to the boxes and cover everything with a film, on the left in fig. For potted crops, you have to make small copies of large greenhouses, in the center there.

In the country garden economy, a mini-greenhouse made of bottles will be an excellent help, on the right in fig. above. Due to the high concentration of light, it can be transparent, and fresh air has a beneficial effect on plants in the early phases of development. In addition, with such no hassle: he took it out and put it.

There are also types of highly productive mini-greenhouses available for self-production. Here, for example, in Fig. on the right is a greenhouse made of tires. Despite the clumsy appearance, it is high-tech: a two-stage greenhouse effect and drip irrigation are used. With skillful selection of varieties, one rack of "auto-greenhouses" can produce up to half a bucket of tomatoes or 700-800 g of strawberries per day.

So what about in winter?

A small winter greenhouse can pay off either north of approximately the parallel of Kotlas, or in the very south, in the Krasnodar Territory and Stavropol Territory. In the first case, the matter is decided by rather high prices and demand, in the second - a mild winter. Both there and there, for a small private trader, in general, 2 designs are possible.

The first is a classic trench greenhouse-greenhouse, only covered with polycarbonate, see fig. below. Because the frame is fully load-bearing, when calculating the coverage, the zone number is taken 1 less. In winter, flowers and onions are grown. By the end of February, when the mulch is almost overgrown, tomatoes and cucumbers are sown and harvested at the end of April. In the summer they “greenhouse” as usual, and in the fall, when the soil crop is cheap, the trenches are refilled; this is not a matter of one day, because fresh biofuel warms up very strongly at first. Then the cycle repeats.

The second is a box greenhouse-dugout without drainage; next diagram. rice. Dugout is a relative name, because. concrete floor screed will not hurt her in any way. Excess water flows into the trays, where, under the influence of heat from the heating registers, it evaporates and humidifies the air.

It is advisable to insulate the basement and blind area of ​​the dugout greenhouse, but the foundation does not need to be insulated. In the positive belt around it, the soil will not fall asleep for the winter, which will provide additional heating in low light. In this regard, the dugout can be considered a semi-thermos greenhouse.

How to get warm?

Heating, as already mentioned, accounts for the majority of winter greenhouse costs. If the heating is water from the boiler, then the optimal system layout will be. It was specially designed for industrial premises, therefore it does not fit well into residential premises, but it is simple, inexpensive and very economical at the required temperature up to +16 degrees, and in the greenhouse the greenhouse effect will add heat to the optimum.

However, the best option for heating a greenhouse is a stove from a heater-heater such as Buleryan or Buller. Its convector nozzles placed obliquely upward direct hot air onto the roof slopes; here he does not let them freeze, and he cools down to a comfortable temperature and falls on the plants with a warm veil, creating the effect of the height of spring. You can learn more about the features of furnace heating of greenhouses from the video below.

Video: furnace heating of the greenhouse

For a greenhouse with an area of ​​​​less than 10 square meters. m, the smallest buller turns out to be powerful, because. at a very low fuel load, the efficiency of bullers drops sharply. In this case, a potbelly stove will help out from a gas cylinder of 12 or 27 liters, the efficiency of potbelly stoves is just quite high with a weak firebox. As for long-burning stoves, they are unsuitable for greenhouses: they create a weak convection center and a strong heat radiation that burns plants. Spring is like a desert.

About lighting

Greenhouse lighting requires a separate detailed discussion. Let's share a little secret here: 1 special phytolamp for 24 W can be replaced by 3 ordinary housekeepers of 13-15 W with spectra at 2700K, 4100K and 6400K. Power consumption doubles, but is still three times lower than that of incandescent lamps.

One such triad under flat conical reflectors provides sufficient illumination of an area of ​​4-6 square meters. m. Lamps should be hung in such a way that the same spectra do not coexist either in a row or between rows.

Finally

To summarize - what kind of greenhouse to build? For starters, bottles. It will quickly, simply and cheaply allow you to learn how to run a greenhouse business and feel its benefits.

Further, in a temperate climate, greenhouses made of polycarbonate on a frame made of PP pipes definitely dominate. In harsh places, a wooden roof is also preferred with polycarbonate. It is also good in that it itself has a minimal effect on environment. On permafrost, this is vital.

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