Caring for tomatoes in the greenhouse in summer. Technology for growing tomatoes in polycarbonate greenhouses: secrets and tips for high yield, photo

Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse promises a great harvest of tasty and healthy fruits. However, it will take a lot of time and effort to get it. At the same time, the size of the yield depends both on and timely in fertile soil, and on the subsequent care of the plants in the greenhouse bed.

Garter tomatoes in the greenhouse

Greenhouse tomatoes can also be tied to pegs

Usually, 7-10 days after the plant is attached to the trellis.

Under the roof of the greenhouse, two wires are pulled over each bed. A twine is attached under the lower leaf with a free loop. The other end is fixed to the wire.

In this way, the first tomato bush is tied to the left-sided wire, and the next plant to the right-sided one. The technique allows you to double the distance between individual tomatoes. As a result, they are qualitatively illuminated by the sun's rays, and the air in the greenhouse stagnates less. This has a beneficial effect on growth and overall yield.

Every week, the plants are carefully wrapped around the vertical trellis so that one revolution covers 1.5-2 internodes. If the brush is large, and the fruits are heavy or there are a large number of them, the stalk is also tied up to avoid breaking off.

You can learn about the rest of the nuances of tomato garter from.

And how to properly plant seedlings in a greenhouse, you can learn from the video:

Basic rules for the formation of greenhouse tomatoes

High-quality seedlings are the first and most important condition for a good fruit harvest

Tomato bushes of indeterminate tall varieties are grown in one, maximum two stems. With a trellis height of about meters, up to 12 brushes are formed on tomato bushes in five months.

About a month before the end of fruiting, the so-called plant climbing - remove the top of the main stems. There is a detailed article on the formation of this type of tomato plants on the blog, I advise you to read -.

Determinant medium-sized tomato varieties and hybrids are formed depending on the planned fruiting period:

• in one stem until self-limiting development;
• in one stem, without touching 2-3 stepsons and one brush;
• the stem is shortened over 4-5 inflorescences with the transfer of the bulk of fruiting to the lateral branches.

The preferred methods for watering tomatoes in the greenhouse are subsurface irrigation and furrow irrigation.

Water is poured under the root, trying not to soak the foliage of the plants. After watering, the furrows must be covered with dry soil. The soil around the bushes is loosened to a shallow depth to prevent the appearance of a soil crust. It is also advisable to thoroughly ventilate the greenhouse room.

During the flowering period, the regularity of watering tomatoes in the greenhouse is especially important.

The temperature of the irrigation water should not fall below +20 degrees.

Periodically, every one and a half - two weeks, tomato plants are recommended "mineral water".

The first feeding is given 10-15 days after planting tomato plants in a permanent place. 50 grams of superphosphate, 10 grams of potassium sulfate, 15 grams of ammonium nitrate are applied per square meter of the greenhouse in liquid form.

For the second and next feeding, the rate of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate is increased to 30 grams, and superphosphate to 80 grams. During the period of fruit formation, the rate of application of ammonium nitrate and superphosphate should be 40 grams, and potassium sulfate - 30 grams per square meter.

If you are against the use of "mineral water" in gardening, plants will thank you for organic feeding: mullein diluted with water (1:10), (1: 15-20), (1:10).

But remember that it is undesirable to use nitrogen in top dressing before laying fruits on the first - second brushes. Otherwise, the tomatoes will begin to fatten and it will not be easy to stop it. During this period, plants respond well to fertilization. On average, 4-5 dressings are carried out per season with an interval between them of 15-20 days.

A good effect is also obtained, that is, spraying the entire plant with various nutrient compositions.

It is usually used when tomatoes are having problems.

Generous feeding \u003d generous harvest

For example, with slow development and pale leaves, they are fed on the leaves with a urea solution - a teaspoon per 8-10 liters of water. And when the flowers fall, the plants are treated with a solution of boric acid with the addition of ordinary baking soda - ¼ teaspoon of acid and ½ teaspoon of soda for 8-10 liters of water.

Spraying is done in the early evening, or in the afternoon in cloudy weather.

For the prevention of brown spot and late blight, it is advisable to spray plants 1-2 times during the growing season with a solution - 100 grams per 8-10 liters of water or copper oxychloride - 40 grams per 10 liters of water.

Greenhouse soil is also recommended regularly by any available organic matter. Nettle is best suited for this. provides protection against excessive evaporation of moisture, suppresses weed growth, insulates plant roots in cool weather and protects them from overheating in hot weather. It also helps to enrich the soil with oxygen.

How and what is better to mulch tomatoes, see the video.

In addition, a dense - from 15 to 20 centimeters - layer of mulching materials will serve as a reliable "pillow" for the fruits, isolating them from contact with the soil. As organic matter decomposes, fresh humic acids enter the soil, which have a beneficial effect on the development of tomato bushes.

Poor light, too high humidity, as well as hot weather make pollination difficult and lead to a noticeable delay in fruit formation.

Then try to maintain optimal humidity in the greenhouse - from 50 to 60%. And it is also important to periodically - 2-3 times in the morning from 9 to 11 o'clock - gently shake each bush. After that, the passages to the greenhouses are moistened, because high air humidity is necessary for the successful germination of pollen.

The situation can be corrected with the help of foliar dressing with boric acid - grams per 8-10 liters of water, as well as spraying the plants with the preparation Ovary.

The tomato crop is harvested at least a couple of times a week. The best time for this work is in the morning.

The fruits are plucked without a stalk when they change color to brown or pink. Indoors, they quickly turn to their typical color. In a film greenhouse, cleaning is usually completed in late August - early September, in a polycarbonate or glazed greenhouse - 2-3 weeks later.

If you follow the described method of growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, you will receive from 6 to 12 kilograms of fruit per unit of greenhouse area!

• grow in a greenhouse 1-2 special varieties of tomatoes that produce fruits with thick skin and dense pulp. What are these varieties, you learn from the article - "";
• collect fruits in the technical phase of ripeness and ripen them in a dark cellar. The whole technology of long-term storage of tomatoes from A to Z is described in this article - "".

And finally, I propose to watch a video about the methods and rules for watering a tomato in a greenhouse.

After the plants are planted from the pots into the greenhouse soil, a new stage begins: caring for the tomatoes after planting in the greenhouse. There are many features here that you need to know in order to get a good harvest and all the work done before was not wasted. The greenhouse allows you to pamper yourself with different varieties of tomatoes, both short and tall, each with its own distinctive flavor, color and aroma, as well as size and shape.

Watering, pollination and airing

After planting, the tomatoes must be left without watering for 12-15 days. The volume of water for irrigation varies at different stages:

• before flowering - 4-5 liters per 1 sq. m., 1 time in 5-6 days;
• in the season of flowering and fruit formation - 10-15 liters per 1 sq. m. for the same period.

Drip irrigation system for tomatoes in a greenhouse

So that there is no condensation and drops of water do not fall on the fruits, watering is best done in the morning at the root. You should also control the correct temperature regime of water - 20-22 degrees.

Important! To achieve a good harvest, the greenhouse must be fully illuminated by the sun's rays, there should be no trees or bushes nearby, from which a shadow could fall.

On the tenth to twelfth day, the plants must be tied to a trellis about 2 meters high. Some experts advise to carry out the garter on the third or fourth day. Forming tomatoes into one stem, you need to leave 7-8 flower brushes. You can also leave only the bottom stepson, who has one flower brush. The rest are removed when they reach 8 cm in length, leaving 2-3 cm from them. In the morning, the stepsons break off more easily, so the procedure should be carried out at the beginning of the day.

Garter bushes of tomatoes on a peg

Important! To exclude the transfer of a viral disease by hand from an infected plant to a healthy one, stepchildren break off so that their fingers do not touch the plant sap.

For pollination, shake flower brushes lightly. In this case, an important factor is the presence of the sun and warm temperatures. Immediately after shaking, water the soil or spray the flowers with water. After waiting 2 hours, it is necessary to reduce the humidity in the room, which means that the side and upper vents and the door must be opened. It is important to monitor the temperature in the greenhouse. On a sunny day, it should be 24-26 degrees, on a cloudy day - 18-20 degrees. At night, the temperature should not drop below 15-16 degrees.

Airing is one of the most essential procedures. This is especially important during the flowering period of tomatoes. The upper vents must necessarily be in the greenhouse where the tomatoes grow, since it is they that contribute to the drying of the condensate on the film.

Flowering tomatoes

With increased soil moisture, the sugar content in tomato fruits decreases, as well as dry matter, as a result of which they become watery, sour taste appears, and fleshiness decreases. That is why the correct watering and the regularity of airing directly affect the quality of the fruits obtained at the output.

Top dressing of tomatoes

During the growing season, it is important to make several root (preferably 3-4) dressings. After 3 weeks from the moment the seedlings are planted, the first feeding is carried out. Half a liter of liquid mullein and 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska are diluted with 10 liters of water and each plant is fertilized with 1 liter of the resulting mixture.

After 10 days, a second feeding is carried out. Fertilizer is prepared according to the following ratio: a tablespoon of complete fertilizer and a teaspoon of potassium sulfate for the same 10 liters of water. Distribute it at the rate of 5 liters per 1 sq. m. soil.

It is necessary to prepare a mixture for feeding strictly observing the dosage

After another 12 days, mix superphosphate (1 tbsp. L.) And wood ash (2 tbsp. L.) For 10 liters of water. For 1 sq. m. 6-8 liters of such fertilizer will be needed.

During the period of full fruiting, tomatoes must be fed in this way: mix 2 tablespoons of superphosphate with 1 teaspoon of dry powder (can be replaced with 1 tablespoon of liquid sodium humate) for 10 liters of water. 10 liters of this top dressing is enough for 2 square meters. With this fertilizer, the fruits will pour faster.

Soil care

Caring for the soil under the tomatoes after planting them in the greenhouse does not end, but, on the contrary, continues, simply in other directions than before.

Important! So that tomatoes are not sick, they should not be grown in the same greenhouse (on the same soil) for two years in a row.

After the seedlings are planted, the entire free area must be covered with compost. The thicker the layer, the better. Further, during the season, you need to regularly add a mulch layer consisting of cut grass and straw. This will prevent late blight from spreading. To further protect the plants from diseases, the lower leaves of the plants are cut off, preventing them from coming into contact with the ground.

Greenhouse soil mulching

Earthworms are also important for soil health, so it is good if they are present in the soil.

It will be good to plant legumes between rows, as they contribute to the enrichment of the soil with nitrogen. And to make the taste of tomatoes more intense, you can sow basil along the borders.

Potential problems and solutions

Gardeners may face such tomato problems:

• falling flowers;
• curling the sheets;
• stopping plant growth;
• falling of fruits;
• fruits do not grow on the second and next brushes;
• plants are thin and weak.

So, if a plant looks strong and healthy, with thick stems, and its upper leaves are twisted, this is a sure sign that the plant will not bear fruit, since all the nutrients go to the greenery. The reason may be too abundant watering, a large amount of nitrogen or organic fertilizers, and a lack of light. To remedy the situation, you need to leave the plants without watering for 8-10 days and increase the temperature: daytime up to 26 degrees, nighttime - up to 24, do not air.

Twisted bush

The reason for the falling of flowers and small fruits can be dry soil, high temperature, insufficient ventilation and illumination. Accordingly, you need to eliminate all of the above: water the plants, lower the temperature, ventilate, etc.

To improve the filling of fruits on the second flower cluster, it is necessary to harvest the crop from the first cluster as early as possible. There is no need to wait for the redness of the fruit. In just 2 days, they will ripen in the sun, for example, on a windowsill.

Drying flowers on a bush

Thin and weak plants can be the result of a lack of light or nutrients. If these shortcomings are eliminated, then the yield can be significantly increased.

All of the above recommendations are suitable for the care of short and tall tomatoes. By the way, among the low-growing varieties that are good to grow in a greenhouse way, you can name Amber, Volovye's ear, Japanese dwarf, Tayana, Renet and Yamal. For example, Yamal, with a height of only up to 30 cm, has rather large fruits containing a lot of sugar and vitamins, and given the cold resistance of this plant, it can be successfully grown even in cold summer. But the tall Great Warrior can bear fruit weighing up to 0.5 kg.

Tomato variety "Japanese dwarf"

Knowing how to water properly, ventilate in time and fertilize tomatoes in the greenhouse enough, you can get a good quality DIY harvest.

How to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse: video

Tomato care: photo

Tomatoes are thermophilic and quite capricious, especially if grown in greenhouses. Stationary greenhouses, which are now very popular, allow you to enjoy the taste of fresh vegetables all year round, but at the same time require daily attention from the grower and

tomato care

from the moment of planting seedlings to harvesting. In this article, we will tell you what activities are involved in caring for tomatoes after planting in a greenhouse, and how much they need to be done in order to grow a decent harvest.

Transplanting

We will not dwell on the intricacies of growing seedlings, but start right away with planting them in a greenhouse. As you know, greenhouse tomatoes are best grown through seedlings, so the process of transplanting plants from pots into the greenhouse should be given special attention. First of all, you need to grow or purchase quality seedlings. The quality of seedlings is determined by the following criteria:

• plant height should be at least 20 cm (ideally 25-35 cm);
• the seedling must have at least 8-9 fully developed leaves;
• it is desirable that one fruit cluster has already been formed, but the buds have not yet blossomed;
• the leaf plates had a rich dark green color;
• the root system is alive and well developed (ideally, it should entangle the entire substrate).

Such a seedling, with proper planting and proper care, will take root in the greenhouse as quickly as possible and begin to bear fruit in a short time.

Now about the landing itself. The planting time of seedlings depends on the climate of the region and the equipment of the greenhouse. In stationary heated polycarbonate structures, tomatoes can be grown all year round, but in a greenhouse without heating, and even more so with a film greenhouse, it is necessary to wait until the soil warms up to 15-16 ° C.

The composition of the soil into which the seedlings will be transplanted from pots should also be taken care of in advance. To grow early vegetables in spring, it is advisable to start preparing the soil in the fall, after the last harvest. If vegetables are grown year-round, then you should make sure that after harvesting the next harvest, the land rests for at least a month.

Before each new planting, the soil in the greenhouse must be refreshed, and if it is completely depleted, then replaced. Immediately after the end of fruiting, the bed should be dug up, freed from all plant residues and lumps, and then disinfected. If the previous plants were sick, then it is better to replace the top layer of soil. During digging, it is recommended to apply organic fertilizers, and shortly before planting seedlings - a mineral complex.

Many vegetable growers prefer to use schemes for planting tomatoes, however, when growing greenhouse, one should take into account not only the varietal characteristics of the plants, but also the amount of usable area. In a greenhouse, a slight compaction of the bushes is permissible, but planting should be done so that the adult plants are not too crowded:

• tall (indeterminate, forming in one stem) varieties should be planted in rows at a distance of 60-70 cm between rows and 70-80 cm between bushes;
• undersized bushes can be planted at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other and 40-50 cm between rows.

To save space in the greenhouse, it is recommended to use a checkerboard planting pattern, in which the distance between two rows can be reduced to 40 cm, and the path between the ribbons can be left 0.8 m wide.Plants should be buried in the ground no more than 4 cm.If the seedlings are too stretched out, the landing should be made deeper and at an angle of 45 °. Before planting, the wells should be well watered with warm (18-20 ° C) water, and until it is absorbed, plant the seedling. This technique allows the roots to straighten faster.

Video "Planting seedlings"

From the video you will learn how to properly plant tomato seedlings.

Care

After planting seedlings in the greenhouse, a new and even more important stage begins - caring for plants, which has its own characteristics. The first 10-15 days, the seedlings will take root, for this process to be successful, it is necessary to maintain a certain microclimate in the greenhouse. The temperature should be set at 20-22 ° C. If the weather is sunny, then young plants should be slightly shaded from direct rays.

Since the soil is well moistened during planting, there is no need to water the seedlings for the next 10 days, you can only cover the ground in the aisles with a thin layer of mulch. All caring activities begin 10 days after planting, or after the plants begin to grow in a new place.

Watering

Watering should be started no earlier than the tomatoes will grow. Pulling out the stem and branches is a signal that the plant has taken root, and it needs food, including water. It is not recommended to water in the past, since excessive moisture can lead to root rot and the death of the seedling.

In winter and spring, watering is carried out at intervals of 1 time / 5-7 days, if the soil dries out earlier, it is necessary to lower the temperature. Water consumption for young plants is 5-7 l / 1 m² of the bed. As the bushes develop, the rate increases: with the beginning of flowering up to 12 liters, and with the onset of hot weather and the beginning of fruiting - up to 15 liters.

Watering is recommended in the absence of direct sunlight - in the evening or early morning. The water for irrigation should be at about the same temperature as the soil so that the plants are not stressed. You need to water at the root, avoiding moisture on the foliage. It is good if the greenhouse is equipped with a drip irrigation system, but if it is not, then this can be done using a watering can with a long spout or a bottle.

Airing

Excessive moisture is unbearable for tomatoes, and since moisture accumulation in the greenhouse is inevitable, ventilation is an essential part of plant care. Condensation occurs in greenhouses from high temperatures. This usually happens when the sun shines most of the day and the temperature in the greenhouse rises to 30 ° C or more. In such conditions, tomatoes begin to shed flowers and ovaries, and fungal diseases develop on the leaves.

In the spring, the greenhouse should be ventilated daily by simply opening the vents. Strong drafts are harmful for tomatoes, but a light breeze will benefit them, so in calm weather you can open the through vents. With the arrival of constant heat, the windows can be opened by a quarter, thereby attracting pollinating insects to the greenhouse. The ventilation procedure should be carried out until all the moisture in the greenhouse is dry, but in warm weather it can be longer.

Temperature

Maintaining the temperature regime in the greenhouse is to equalize the day and night temperatures. Usually in those regions where greenhouse tomato cultivation is practiced, the climate is not stable, and the night and day temperatures are very different. If the daytime temperature rises above 30 ° C, and the nighttime temperature drops to 10 ° C, then such a heat-loving culture as a tomato may simply die.

The optimum temperature for the normal development of tomatoes is considered to be at the level of 20-22 ° C, while an increase of up to 25 ° C is permissible during the day, but 28 ° C is already a threshold, exceeding which can lead to the falling of leaves, flowers or ovaries. The night temperature should be kept at 16-18 ° C, but not below 15 ° C. You also need to monitor the humidity in the room. Air humidity of 65-70% is considered normal - this level also indicates that soil moisture is also within normal limits.

Pollination

Most varieties of tomatoes are capable of self-pollination, but in greenhouse conditions this process is complicated due to various reasons: the absence of insects and wind, high humidity, due to which the pollen ceases to be crumbly. Therefore, with the beginning of flowering, plants need to be helped to pollinate artificially, with a brush, cotton wool or other improvised method.

Some greenhouse owners bring in a hive with bees during flowering. This approach, of course, is good, but not everyone is available, and it is justified only in relation to large stationary greenhouses. For a small space, it is enough to simply open the windows so that the bees can access the plants or manually pollinate the flowers.

Hand pollination is carried out with a natural bristle brush. The procedure is best carried out in the morning at a temperature of 24-25 ° C and a humidity of 70% - in such conditions, the pollen becomes crumbly and is easily tolerated. The most suitable time for pollination is the day after the flower has fully opened.

Bush formation

In greenhouses, indeterminate (tall) varieties of tomatoes are most often grown, which must be formed into 1 stem with further pinching and tying to a support. It is necessary to form bushes within a week after they take root in a new place, and the support (trellis or pegs) should be installed even during planting.

Young plants should be tied to the support 7-10 days after planting in the greenhouse, then it will be easier to control the further growth of the stems. As for the removal of stepchildren, when forming into one stem, it is allowed to leave one of the lowest ones, and remove all the others as they appear. It is better to grab tomatoes in the morning, so that the fracture can be tightened until the evening, besides, in the morning the processes are more fragile and break off easily.

Grasshopping of tall bushes is carried out until 7-8 fruit brushes appear, after which the top of the stem should be pinched off, and the lower leaves should be torn off - this will restrain the growth of the plant and direct its forces to ripening the fruits. Low-growing tomatoes form in 2-3 stems, leaving the strongest lower stepchildren. Otherwise, the procedure is no different from the formation of tall bushes.

Top dressing

Tomatoes, in the process of their growth, consume a lot of nutrients, therefore, despite the fertilization of the soil during planting, the bushes are fed 3-4 more times during the season. Plants equally need organic and mineral fertilizing, but since mineral fertilizers contribute to the accumulation of nitrates in fruits, it is recommended to use them only in early spring or during the first feeding, but no later than 1.5-2 months before harvesting. The rest of the time, root feeding is carried out with organic solutions:

• the first (2-3 weeks after planting) - with a solution of mullein with nitrophosphate: 0.5 l of manure, 1 tbsp. spoon of nitrophosphate / 10 l of water;
• the second (after 10 days) - liquid droppings at a concentration of 1:15;
• the third feeding is mullein in a 1:10 ratio during watering.

The average consumption of liquid fertilizer is 1 liter per bush, but the size of the plant must be taken into account.

Diseases and problems

In the process of growing greenhouse tomatoes, vegetable growers are faced with many problems associated with both diseases and violations of agricultural technology. The most common ones are:

• falling leaves and flowers;
• twisting and then dying off of leaf plates;
• stopping the growth and development of bushes;
• incomplete ripening of fruits, as well as the absence of an ovary on the upper hands;
• weakening of the plant.

If the bushes look healthy and powerful, but the ovaries are not forming, this means that all the nutrients are used to build up the vegetative mass. The reason for this phenomenon may be an excess of mineral fertilizers, too intensive watering or insufficient lighting. What to do in this situation? First of all, suspend watering for a week and raise the temperature in the greenhouse to 24-25 ° C.

Falling flowers and ovaries, on the contrary, occurs from excessive dryness of the soil and air. In this case, the greenhouse needs to be ventilated more often, the temperature should be reduced, and watering should be increased.

If the plant does not have enough strength to ripen all the fruits, just pick the brushes ahead of time, they will ripen perfectly in a few days in the sun.

The plant becomes weak from a lack of light or nutrients. If the greenhouse is well lit, try reviving the tomatoes with extra organic top dressing or by spraying the tops with a boric acid solution.

The most common disease in greenhouses is late blight. Spores of this fungus are activated against a background of high humidity and with an overly thickened planting. It is very difficult to fight the fungus, but you can stop the development of late blight by treating plants with Fitosporin 1 time / 10 days. To avoid the development of various putrefactive processes, it is necessary to avoid contact of leaves with the ground. To do this, it is recommended to break off the lower tier, and cover the soil around the bushes with mulch.

Video "Care"

From the video you will learn how to care for tomatoes in a greenhouse.

The property of tomatoes is known - thermophilicity, therefore it is not always possible to bring the fruits of tomatoes to full maturity in the open air. Using greenhouses to grow vegetables is ideal for those who live in temperate regions. But there are peculiarities of tomato agricultural technology in greenhouse conditions. Knowing them will help you achieve high yields of delicious tomatoes.

Ways of planting a tomato in a greenhouse

There are two methods for planting tomatoes in a greenhouse. It is useful to have an idea about each of them.

Correct planting with seeds in the ground

Despite the fact that the air temperature in the greenhouse rises during the day thanks to the bright March sun, it is cold there at night. To plant seeds, you need them temper in advance... To do this, after soaking, the material is placed either in a refrigerator or in warm water. The seeds that have hatched are now ready to grow.

It is important that the temperature does not drop to minus five degrees at night.

A special heating of a closed room will help to avoid this. It happens:

• biological with the help of fresh manure;
• stove;
• electric.

You can sow seeds in February by filling the greenhouse with hot manure.

Having filled the greenhouse with a shovel of hot manure at the end of February, you can sow seeds. They will have enough heat until mid-May. Manure is heated by sprinkling it with hot water, sprinkling with quicklime.

Shelters of walls made of mats in two layers keep warm well. Three days later, the manure is leveled, soil is poured onto it. You can plant tomato seeds in it. The accelerated growth of hardened seedlings allows them to bear fruit a month - one and a half earlierthan in the garden beds.

How to plant tomato seedlings

It is easier to grow tomatoes in seedlings. There are some nuances of planting seeds and emerging sprouts. In spring, tomatoes are sown for seedlings in greenhouses not earlier than March 20... Once she reaches sixty days of age, you can plant or plant her in a permanent place in the room, for example, on a windowsill.

For seedlings air temperature is important - it should reach eighteen degrees during the day, sixteen at night. Watering seedlings is three times in the first month. The water is used warm, well-separated. When the first shoots appear, they switch to watering up to once a week.

Plant the dived seedlings in place, preparing a layer of earth of 17 centimeters, then adding it to twenty centimeters. The soil should consist of equal parts of humus, sod land with the addition of a small amount of river sand.

Before planting seedlings, wood ash is added to the hole

Before planting, fifty grams of wood ash is placed in each prepared hole or furrow, thoroughly mixed with the ground. Planting tomato sprouts is carried out deeply, reaching the bottom of the shelves.

Elongated seedlings - planting features

With a lack of lighting, excessive watering, the seedlings become long.

Because of the thin stem, tomato seedlings often break, therefore, when transplanting, a number of rules must be observed:

1. A cloudy day or in the morning is suitable for planting seedlings. with low temperature air.
2. The long stem fits into the planting hole in a ring. You can lay the kusutik horizontally, leaving a stem on the surface, which is no more than forty centimeters long, or, conversely, leaving most of it underground.
3. Tear off the lower leaves and stepchildren on the stem.
4. Carefully pour the soil into the hole, trying not to damage the shoots.
5. They drive a peg next to it, to which tie seedlings.
6. At the end of the procedure, the bushes are watered.

If at the beginning of growth the elongated sprouts lag behind their counterparts in development, then after the formation of new roots the tomatoes will become stronger.

What is a square-nested method of disembarkation

When planting seeds or seedlings of tomatoes in the ground, use the square-nesting method, which will make caring for tomatoes easier. And for plants it will be better to pass absorption of nutrients... With this planting, there will be enough light for each bush.

The scheme for planting a tomato in a square-nested way is as follows:

1. In one socket 70x70 centimeters two or three plants of standard and determinant species are placed.
2. Early ripening tomatoes are enough two for one nest.
3. With medium and late ripening - one plant each. With an increase in the nest by twenty centimeters, you can plant two tomatoes each, slightly reducing the planting density.

After landing it is necessary ventilate more often, which will avoid the spread of fungal diseases indoors.

To prevent the appearance of fungus, the greenhouse must be thoroughly ventilated.

The best timing for planting a tomato

The right time for planting a tomato plays an important role in getting a good harvest.

The timely arrival of spring with stable weather is the main condition for planting a vegetable crop, in addition to proper grooming and watering. For the seedling method of growing, planting it in an unheated greenhouse is carried out in the first decade of May. In this case, it is necessary to additionally insulate the walls of a closed room, covering it with mats.

In regions with warm climates, heated greenhouses are prepared for the tomato in March, and with moderate, including Western Siberia, Novosibirsk, Krasnoyarsk - in the end of April... The spring sun will give the tomatoes enough warmth and light to grow.

Placing tomatoes in a greenhouse

In accordance with the choice of tomato variety, greenhouse designs also plant young bushes:

1. For indeterminate tomatoes, a staggered arrangement of bushes is chosen. They need to be placed in rows with a distance between them. no more than eighty centimeters... The distance between plants will be half a meter when forming one stem, and two - seventy centimeters.
2. Determinate species need a distance between rows in half a meter... The remoteness of the bushes from each other is thirty centimeters to those that are grown in two or three stems. It is reduced to a rate of twenty-five if one stem is formed.

When planting in one stem, the distance between bushes can be reduced to 25cm

It is important to follow the rules for placing tomatoes, otherwise they will not have enough nutrients, moisture, light and air.

Overcrowding of plantings leads to diseases in tomatoes. Growing strong and vigorous plants becomes difficult when they thicken.

Optimal bed width

The arrangement of the beds depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe greenhouse. With a standard area of \u200b\u200b3x6 beds, a place is suitable along the wall... High-quality lighting of the bed will be with its direction to the west.

The height of the soil in relation to the track is made in 40 cm... The width of the bed can be 60 or 90 cm... For full care, you will need a track a little less than half a meter wide.

Care must be taken to arrange the necessary equipment and to provide sufficient track width. This will allow for proper care of the tomato beds.

It is necessary to think in advance about the sufficient width of the paths in the greenhouse.

Features of the location of undersized and tall varieties

For the proper placement of tomato bushes, you can use the following recommendations:

1. Planting in two rows is suitable for tall varieties, since they leave two stems in the nest. And the distance between the rows reaches eighty centimeters.
2. Landing is ideal in the middle rooms of tall varieties, on the sides - undersized. When ripe at different times, the tomato can be harvested continuously.
3. With the modest size of the greenhouse, the tall ones arrange a bed in one row on the sides, and the undersized ones - in two rows in the middle of the room.

It is necessary to think over the location of different plant varieties and choose an approach to planting in advance.

Polycarbonate greenhouses: the nuances of growing

The advantages of polycarbonate greenhouses are:

• small mass;
• long service;
• low thermal conductivity;
• high light transmission.

Growing garden tomatoes in such greenhouses is easy.

Polycarbonate greenhouse

Agrotechnics of tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse: planting dates, distances between bushes

In the first days of May you can start planting seedlings in a polycarbonate greenhouse. At this time, the seedlings already have a strong root system, a thick stem, one or two flower clusters.

After hardening the seedlings in the open air for two weeks, they are sprayed with a solution of boric acid. This will prevent the buds from falling off. Before planting, the two lower leaves on the shoots are removed. The plant layout is the same as in ordinary greenhouses.

Disembarkation step by step

Before planting a tomato in a greenhouse, it is necessary to add humus, peat, phosphate and potassium fertilizers to the prepared beds. For soil disinfection it needs to be processed - sprayed with a solution of potassium permanganate or treatment with the Zaslon preparation is performed.

For disinfection of the soil, treatment with the drug Zaslon is performed

Seedlings are placed in the prepared holes using the square-nesting or tape-nesting method. The depth of the holes is no more than twenty centimeters. For better absorption of phosphorus, which is necessary for tomatoes for proper development, wood ash is added to the holes.

The seedlings are immersed until the first true leaf.

Depending on the moisture content of the soil and air in the greenhouse, the seedlings are watered two - three liters per bush... Tomatoes planted in the evening in cloudy weather will take root well.

Requirements for planting care

For active growth of a tomato in a polycarbonate greenhouse, it is necessary to create conditions:

• air temperature in 22 degrees, but not more than 25, soil - over fifteen.
• aeration for the flow of fresh air into the room;
• maintaining the humidity level at around 70 percent.
• water as it dries top soil layer;
• top dressing with the introduction of monopotassium phosphate and potassium nitrate weekly along with watering;
• pollination with shaking the bushes during the flowering period.

Compliance with all the rules for caring for tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse will lead to constant fruiting of the bushes.

Watering is done as the topsoil dries up

Growing secrets

It's no secret that you can get high yields of tomatoes in the early stages only by growing them in a greenhouse. Besides this plant in protected ground less attacked by pestsdo not suffer from diseases.

The correct operation of the greenhouse ventilation duct is ensured as follows: thoroughly and regularly wipe the walls of the structure. If the place for installing the greenhouse is chosen correctly - well lit, without shading from the side of trees, buildings, then the light will freely penetrate into it.

Before starting the preparation of tomato seedlings for the greenhouse, it is necessary to select such plant varieties that can grow well in greenhouse conditions.

Preparation and disinfection of soil for future beds obligatory, plant health depends on it.

Insects will help in pollination of the tomato. You can attract bees, bumblebees, wasps to the greenhouse with sweet fermented compote, kvass.

Spraying with copper sulfate, boiling water increases the resistance of tomatoes to diseases.

Care rules

Care for tomatoes grown in greenhouses, is different from those that grow in the open field.

Features of courting after planting seedlings

To prevent drops from falling on the leaves, drip irrigation is perfect.

It is important for young seedlings to carry out timely watering, the introduction of optimal doses of fertilizers. A week after planting, the plants are watered. Before flowering, watering is carried out with a break of five days. One bucket of warm water per square meter. Watered at the root, trying to prevent drops of moisture from getting on the leaves. Drip irrigation is also suitable.

Two weeks after planting, carry out feeding the bushes with mullein, diluted in water for five hundred milligrams - ten liters, add ten grams of ammonium nitrate, fifty grams of superphosphate, fifteen grams of potassium chloride. The next time after the appearance of flowers, the ripening of the fruit should be treated with fertilizers, doubling the amount of minerals when dissolved in a bucket of water.

What is the difference between greenhouse and greenhouse care

Greenhouses are used for a smooth transition of seedlings from home to open ground... Therefore, the terms and rules for planting tomatoes are the same for both greenhouses and greenhouses.

The choice of a place for a greenhouse and a greenhouse should take into account the level of occurrence of groundwater.

It cannot exceed two and a half meters from the soil surface. To prevent the soil from sprinkling from the walls of the greenhouse, they are sheathed with boards. Greenhouses are installed on the southern slopes of the site, this will avoid flooding the territory.

The greenhouse must be installed on the south side of the site

Feeding methods

It is necessary to feed tomato bushes during budding and fruit formation... Fertilizers or compost are added every month between the rows. Fertilizers are purchased in specialized stores, taking into account the importance of the presence of a large amount of nitrogen in them.

Suitable for feeding mullein, bird droppings, mineral supplements. All types of fertilizers are diluted in a bucket of water and applied after watering the bushes. A bucket of mortar is enough per square meter.

When to ventilate

In order for the plants to receive more air and light, it is necessary to open the greenhouse doors for ventilation. The procedure will help reduce high temperature and humidity... High humidity parameters, heat will not allow fruits to set, pollination will slow down.

In hot weather, it is necessary to arrange a draft by opening the greenhouse on both sides.

Airing is included in the prevention of late blight. In fine dry weather, you can leave the greenhouse open overnight.

How to plant for a good harvest

A big harvest is the dream of every gardener

Getting a large harvest of juicy fruits is the dream of every gardener. For this it is important comply with the landing dates vegetables, when the temperature in the greenhouse will remain at night at twenty-five degrees Celsius.

Tomatoes will grow better in polycarbonate greenhouses. But in hot summer, it is enough to hold the bushes under the film for the first time. Although it is in the greenhouse that tomatoes are harvested earlier and more often.

Variety selection tomato is important. There are tomatoes that produce rich harvests in the greenhouse, but they do not ripen well in the open field. It is best to choose hybrids that do not require pollination and produce excellent fruit. The resistance of hybrid species to diseases that prevent an increase in productivity is also noted.

How soda helps

For prevention of powdery mildew baking soda is used on tomatoes. To prepare the solution, take four liters of water, add a tablespoon of soda and half a teaspoon of liquid soap. Stir well, spray the tomato bushes in the greenhouse once a week.

Garter features

Most types of tomato require the stalks to be tied to the pegs. The garter of plants is carried out taking into account the variety... It is optional for early maturing and undersized varieties.

Low-growing varieties of tomatoes do not need a garter

How to tie up a greenhouse

There is no difference in the garter of plants in a polycarbonate greenhouse and a simple one.

Wire, strong fishing line, harsh thread, thin twine are never used as material. Such materials will easily cut the stem. Fabric strips two to three centimeters wide are the best choice. Before the procedure, they must be disinfected by scalding them with boiling water or washing them with laundry soap.

Pegs are driven in length near the tomato 30 cm above the stems and loosely tie the stem to them.
Another way to tie up is the arrangement of trellises. Stakes are driven in along the beds, pulling a wire between them in several rows, a strong cord. During the growth of tomatoes, they are tucked into a wire or the brushes are hung on hooks.

Garter of low and tall varieties

It is better to tie undersized varieties individually to the pegs... But such a garter will not withstand the brushes of ripe fruits of tall species. Therefore, for tall tomatoes, it will be better to erect trellis... With this method, the successful growth of stepchildren is possible.

Do I need a node

The central stem of the plant is wrapped with a strip of material with hands, crossing the ends with a figure eight or twisting, tied to a support. It is not necessary to make a strong knot, otherwise it will be difficult to remove it. It is enough to tie it in the form of a bow. After the growth of the stem, the first bandage is removed by tying it higher.

Hang on a trellis or tie up - which method is better

Both options are convenient for tomato growth. Tie brushes of tall tomatoes to the top of the trellis or hung on hookslocated at the top. In both cases, the fruits continue to grow successfully no matter how they are suspended.

Tall tomatoes are hung on hooks

What can be used as a peg

It is convenient to prepare individual pegs or sticks for tying up tomato bushes. They will last for several years.

You can replace them:

• scraps of reinforcement and metal fixtures;
• metal rods;
• thin plastic pipes;
• wooden slats.

The choice of a peg and how many of them should be in order to tie up a tomato depends on the power of the plant stem.

Organization of tomato watering from planting to harvest

Watering play important role in the care of planting tomatoes in the greenhouse.

Frequency of first watering

After planting, it is necessary to take a break in soil moisture, which will allow strengthen the root system young plants. Three days later, up to two liters of water is poured under each bush. Then the number of procedures is increased.

After strengthening the roots, up to 2 liters of water are poured under each bush

Morning is considered the best time to water. And then the greenhouse is opened for ventilation. Watering will be sufficient once - twice a week.

Features of watering in a polycarbonate greenhouse

In the greenhouse, tomatoes are often watered in the flowering phase, doubling the amount of water. The best option would be a hydration break. in two days... After the formation of ovaries, the frequency of watering begins to decrease. In this case, weather conditions are also taken into account. In wet summer, it is enough to water the plants once every two weeks.

Intensive watering will lead to an increase in the green mass of the plant, to a decrease in the fruiting of the tomato.

How to water tomatoes

High yields in the greenhouse are obtained if irrigation is carried out with water at a temperature of 20-25 degrees... Many people add a tablespoon of table salt and a glass of wood ash to a bucket of water. By pouring half a liter of solution under each bush, you can harvest a good harvest of sweet, fleshy tomatoes.

Water the tomatoes, adding a little grass mass to the water.

Organization of drip irrigation of plants

Drip irrigation can be organized independently from a hose and a dropper

Using homemade drippers to water tomatoes is important for hydration root area plants. In this case, water is supplied in small portions.

For the device of this irrigation method, hoses with a diameter of 1.5 cm... Droppers or drip tapes are attached to them. The hose is connected to a tap or dipped into a container of water. The system is laid along the landings, sprinkled lightly with soil. Through a tape or dropper, water will flow directly to the root system of the vegetable crop.

How to water seedlings

Since the future harvest depends on the condition of the seedlings, you need to know how to water it correctly. Young growth can quickly die from a lack of moisture. When spitting seeds, reduce the frequency of watering by making break for two days.

In case of severe dryness, you can spray the soil with a spray gun.

As soon as the first leaves appear, they observe the drying of the top layer of the soil. Only then is watering or spraying done. Two or three days before the pick, the soil is softened by watering and the first top dressing. The sprouts are then more easily removed from the ground.

Four days after transplanting the seedlings, watering begins, bringing it up to once a week... The amount of moisture can be increased if the intensity of the sun's rays increases, which leads to the drying out of the soil.

There are some peculiarities for planting tomatoes to grow them. It is important to know all the nuances of how to care for them in ordinary greenhouses and polycarbonate greenhouses in order to get high yields of tomatoes.

Tomatoes are a capricious culture. Growing them in greenhouses is somewhat different from growing them outdoors. Humidity, air circulation, temperature conditions, nutrients in the soil - in greenhouse conditions, all this should and will be controlled by the gardener. In order to get a harvest all year round, proper care of tomatoes is necessary immediately after they are planted in the greenhouse.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

Greenhouse cultivation begins with planting seedlings in greenhouse soil. The yield of tomatoes directly depends on how correctly the seedlings were planted.

Planting tomato seedlings in greenhouse soil

To plant seedlings, the following conditions must be taken into account:

• height not less than 20 cm;
• first flowering (the first bud appeared);
• the leaves are dark green;
• on the sprout there are 8-9 developed green leaves;
• a living root system that completely entangles the substrate.

Planting is done with the sprouts deepening by 4 cm into the hole.
It is not recommended to plant seedlings too densely or too rarely. Excessive sprout density leads to an increase in the susceptibility of tomatoes to disease and shading of adjacent sprouts to each other, which ultimately reduces yields. And excessive sparseness of seedlings will lead to a shortage of crops due to the irrational use of the greenhouse area. The optimal seating is 50-60 cm between tall varieties of tomatoes and 40-50 cm between low-growing ones.

Temperature and humidity

The temperature regime in the greenhouse, which contains the previously planted tomato sprouts, must be brought to the maximum natural. During the day, the temperature should not exceed + 28 ° С, but also should not fall below + 20 ° С, and at night it can fluctuate from + 15 ° С to + 17 ° С. Tomatoes are very fond of light, so they should be illuminated by the sun from morning to evening. Make sure no shadow falls on the greenhouse. On a sunny day, the temperature should be +25 - + 28 ° С, and on a cloudy day - +20 - + 25 ° С.

Plants need optimal temperature and humidity in the greenhouse for health.

Please note that tomatoes do not tolerate high humidity. For low-growing, as well as for tall varieties of tomatoes, the moisture content should not exceed 65%.

It is necessary to monitor not only the air temperature, but also the temperature of the soil. It should fall within the range of + 17-22 ° C. Also, the relative humidity of the soil should not be kept between 65% and 80% of the total moisture.

Room ventilation and watering

When warm sunny weather has settled outside the greenhouse, it is recommended to open the greenhouse by a quarter of the upper part on each end side. But keep in mind that tomatoes are afraid of drafts.

On warm days, it will be correct to fully open part of the greenhouse on the west side, thereby providing not only good ventilation, but also access to insects that pollinate the flowering. If insects do not enter the greenhouse, help the plant to pollinate by shaking it when flowering. To prevent pollen from scattering, moisten the tracks after the procedure.

To ventilate the greenhouse, open the doors and vents

Important! The main enemy of tomatoes is dampness. Remember to ventilate the greenhouse in a timely manner.

Immediately after planting the plant in the greenhouse, it is necessary to water the bushes abundantly. Young plants also need frequent watering. Their still fragile roots are able to take water only from a shallow depth, therefore watering is carried out as the top layer of the soil dries up.

Some say that it is better to water the tomatoes in the evening, others argue that early watering is better for growth, but in fact, daytime watering is most correct. And all because watering tomatoes requires warmed water with a temperature not lower than the temperature of the soil.

The best way to water tomatoes is drip

It is not recommended to get water on plant leaves, therefore root watering is carried out. Both a hose and a simple bucket and bucket will work well for watering, but these two methods tend to crust the soil. There is a need for frequent loosening. Therefore, the most optimal is drip irrigation. With drip irrigation, physical labor is excluded, crusts do not form on the top layer of the soil, and there is no excess vapor that increases the humidity in the greenhouse. Such watering does not allow the soil to dry out or waterlogged.

Fertilizing the soil and feeding plants

To determine the fertilizer that should be applied to the greenhouse soil, it is necessary to conduct its agrochemical analysis. Such an analysis will show exactly what substances are missing in the soil.
The introduction of fertilizers into the soil increases the growth rate of the plant, it also affects the number of fruits and the rate of their ripening. Among all fertilizers, the most common are potash, phosphorus and nitrogen fertilizers.

Phosphate fertilizer for vegetables - Superphosphate

Fertilizers based on phosphorus begin to be applied in the early stages of tomato growth. This includes phosphates and superphosphates. Superphosphates include both phosphorus and magnesium, calcium, nitrogen and sulfur.

Potash fertilizers are also very beneficial for tomatoes. They are used during the period of fruit ripening. The most common and safest potash fertilizer is common ash. It contains fertilizer in the form of potassium carbonate. Such potassium is perfectly soluble in water, perfectly penetrates the soil and is quickly absorbed by the roots of the plant. The richest in potassium is ash from pine or birch (40%), as well as ash formed by burning straw (30%).

Wood ash for fertilizing greenhouse beds

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in moderation to increase the plant's growth rate. During fruit setting, nitrogen-based fertilization is not recommended. With excessive application during the fruiting period, the shape of the fruit changes, spots and cracks appear. This fertilizer also affects the deterioration of its taste.

There are several types of tomato feed:

1. Organic feed is manure (dry or slurry) and chicken droppings. Manure is diluted with water at about 1:10, and chicken droppings - 200 g per 10 liters of water. Let it brew and wander for at least 24 hours and watered. For one plant 2 liters of fertilizer. This top dressing is usually used during flowering and fruit setting.
2. Mineral dressings are necessary for tomatoes no less than organic ones. The most common are complexes of mineral fertilizers such as ammophos or diammophos. Mineral fertilizers are applied in dry or liquid form, as well as sprayed between rows. Such dressings can be introduced after the second fruit cluster is tied.

Nitrogen fertilizers for tomatoes

Important! Do not apply a lot of fertilizer - quantity does not always improve quality.

Garter and pinching tomatoes

The garter is a very important point in tomato cultivation. In order for the plants not to break under their own weight, they need to be tied up in time. There are 2 main ways to tie tomatoes:

1. Peg garter. This is the most common garter method. Near each of the bushes on the north side, a small peg is driven in, and a plant stem is tied to it with a string. The rope should not contain synthetic fabrics, it should be decontaminated at least by boiling.
2. Stretch garter. Also a very effective tying method. At the beginning and at the end of the beds, they dig in a bar, the width of each is at least 5 cm. A wire is pulled between the bars. A rope is tied to it over each bush with one end, and the other is tied to the stem of the bush.

Correctly tied tomato bush

Advice! To avoid the death of the plant, it should not be tightly pulled to the leash. The rope should move freely as the stem grows.

In order for the tomato to release 7 fruit brushes, you need to remove the young shoots from below under the main branches. They are called stepchildren, and their removal is pinching. It is very easy to remove the shoots, just pull them down and they will immediately break and fall off. It is with the help of pinching that you can make tomato bushes tall or short.

Some tips for properly removing stepchildren:

• remove shoots only from a mature plant;
• carry out the formation of bushes with your hands, so you will not damage the plant;
• carry out pinching in the morning;
• shoot stepchildren all season.

Tomato bush formation

Important! Do not let the stepsons grow more than 5 cm, the larger the shoot, the more nutrients it absorbs.

Passynching is performed no more than once every 10 days. With proper pinching, the yield can increase by 3 kg per bush.

Caring for tomatoes and feeding them in the greenhouse: video

Proper cultivation of tomatoes in a greenhouse: photo

Tomato fruits have high nutritional, taste and dietary qualities, which is why they are considered the most common vegetables. To get early fruits, many summer residents install greenhouses on their site. But in order to achieve the best results of the tomato harvest, you need to know all the features of growing and how to plant plants in greenhouses.

First of all, when designing a greenhouse, it is necessary to take into account that the interior has adequate lighting with all daylight and good ventilation. If it is easier to achieve this in an apartment, in room conditions on a windowsill, then in a greenhouse you need to observe the features.

Before planting a tomato, the metal parts of the structure must be disinfected with boiling water, and the wooden parts with copper sulfate. After these works, it is recommended to ventilate the greenhouse for a day and only then start planting the plant.

Good survival rate of seedlings, as well as their further development depends on many factors. Therefore, it is necessary to observe all the nuances of the further step-by-step guide.

Preparing the soil for tomatoes

Tomatoes not recommended to be planted annually in the same soil... A good option is to replace the entire soil. If this is not possible, you can limit yourself to disinfection: Bordeaux liquid, dolomite flour, or simply pour over it with boiling water.

Efficient cultivation of beds

Planting strips begin to be cultivated 1 week before planting. The number of beds depends on the size of the greenhouse. The optimal width of one lane is considered - 60–90 cm, and the height is 40 cm... It is necessary to leave a passage 60 cm wide between the strips, since in this case it will be easier to carry out agrotechnical work.

Fertilizing the soil before planting

If the soil is not fertile, it must be fed for high yield. It is recommended to add humus to clay soil at the rate of 10 kg. for 1 sq.m. as well as 1 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate and 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate. Further, fertilizers need to be well dug up with the soil.

Regardless of the fertility of the soil, before planting seedlings, it must be watered with a solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of 1 g per 10 liters. water.

Landing scheme

In order for tomatoes to receive a sufficient amount of light and nutrients during growth, it is necessary to correctly plan the place of planting in advance. According to the recommendations of experts, the tomato planting scheme depends on their varieties.

Thus, the optimal solution is considered checkerboard order, with the following distance:

1. Low-growing varieties... In order for this type of tomato to receive good lighting, it is recommended to plant them along the edge of the greenhouse. The distance between plants should be 30 - 40 cm, in the row spacing - 50 cm.
2. Columnar varieties... Such tomatoes are planted in the middle of the ridge, taking into account the distance between the bushes 20 - 25 cm, between the rows 40 - 45 cm.
3. Tall crops... Such varieties are planted on a ridge, along an intermediate passage. The planting pattern is 50 - 55 cm between plants in a row and 65 - 70 cm between rows.

When using this scheme, tomatoes will not interfere with each other during growth, and this routine will also facilitate harvesting from early maturing varieties.

Planting seedlings

The optimal age for planting seedlings is considered 1.5 months... During this time, the root system of the tomato is already sufficiently developed and capable of adapting to new conditions. The landing process itself occurs in several stages, as follows:

1. In 20 min. before planting, the tomatoes must be well shed with water (in this case, the root system will be less injured during transplantation).
2. At the intended place, a hole is dug with a width 20-25 cm and depth 15-20 cm.
3. A peg is installed in the hole to further support the plant.
4. The hole is watered abundantly with water.
5. The seedlings are carefully taken out and placed horizontally in the recess.
6. The seedling is covered with soil.

After the transplant, it is necessary to tie the seedling to a peg and form a small hole around the trunk circle.

Care requirements

The quality and quantity of tomatoes directly depend on agricultural work, so you should not neglect them.

The main requirements for care include:

• maintaining the required temperature;
• watering;
• feeding.

By fulfilling these basic requirements, it will also be possible to speed up the ripening of fruits.

Room temperature

On sunny days, the air in the greenhouse quickly heats up to high temperatures, which in turn adversely affects the seedlings. She begins to fade, develop poorly and in the end may simply die.

Watering

The first beginner watering needs to be done 5-6 days after disembarkation plants. Water the plant at the root, in a pre-formed hole. The water should be settled, warm, temperature +18 degrees... It is recommended to water tomatoes 2 - 3 times a week, at the rate of 25 liters. for 1 sq.m.

After watering, it is necessary to ventilate the room for 2 hours, in this case condensation does not form, which negatively affects both the pollination of plants and the quality of the fruits.

Top dressing

The fertilizers applied during planting are enough for 1.5 weeks, then they begin, alternating in 11-12 days as needed, to feed them with nitrogen and mineral fertilizers.

The first feeding begins with nitrogen fertilizers, such as:

• rotted manure;
• solution;
• magnesium sulfate;
• potassium.

These fertilizers promote rapid growth of greenery and plant resistance to various diseases.

After 11 days, after the first feeding, mineral fertilizers are applied:

• "Kemira - wagon";
• "Solution";
• copper sulfate.

These dressings will affect the quality and volume of the crop.

Additional processing with boric acid, at the rate of 1 g. 1 liter. water, can not only improve the appearance of the tomato and promote plant growth, but also add vitamin C to the fruit.

Experienced gardeners have their secrets for a good and rich greenhouse crop. Therefore, beginners should familiarize themselves with the following nuances:

1. For the greenhouse are selected hybrid varieties tomatoes that have limited growth, resistance to various diseases, with the formation of 1 - 2 stems.
2. It is better to sow seedlings for the greenhouse in late February, early March.
3. Plants are planted in the beginning of Maywhen the soil at a depth of 15–20 cm warms up to and above 15 degrees.
4. Despite the fact that all varieties for greenhouses are self-pollinated, for better fruit setting during the growing season, the plants must be slightly shaken off.

As you can see, these tips are not difficult, if they are followed, it will be possible not to worry about the good development of seedlings.

How to correctly pinch

In order for useful trace elements not to be consumed by bushes, but to be extracted for fruits, it is necessary to regularly pinch.

The procedure itself is simple, using a pruner the bottom 3-4 branches are removed, in some cases, and the upper thickened sprouts. It is also necessary to prevent new shoots from the root system. When the stepsons first appear, they must be carefully cut with a knife.

How to grow large tomatoes - step by step

Before giving preference to large tomatoes, you must immediately take into account that agricultural work will take more free time. Growing large tomato fruits is as follows:

1. Selection of quality varieties.
2. Sow seedlings in separate pots.
3. After planting in the greenhouse, the seedling must be grown and formed into one trunk. To do this, below the first brush, remove all the stepsons and foliage.
4. During growth, the stem is twisted to the support, thereby preventing future fracture of the hands under the weight of the fetus.
5. When 4 - 5 brushes are formed on the stem, the crown of the growth must be pinched.
6. Pinch regularly throughout the season, removing root shoots and shoots from the axils of the foliage.
7. When the first fruits appear, you should monitor their appearance. As soon as the fruits shine, they must be removed, allowing the rest of the crop to ripen.

After the entire crop has been removed from the branch, it must be removed with the help of a pruner, so there will be more light in the greenhouse for the last ripening fruits.

What should be the height of the greenhouse

Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse also has its drawbacks, such as:

• insufficient amount of light than in open ground;
• frequent spread of plant diseases;
• inconvenience in leaving.

Therefore, the height of the greenhouse, for example, made of film, should be not less than 2.5 m... If the greenhouse has a gable roof, you can limit yourself to the height 2 m... In this case, when planting and carrying out agrotechnical work, you will not need to bend down, and also such a height will contribute to better circulation of fresh air and the possibility of planting high varieties of crops.

We plant overgrown tomatoes in a greenhouse

It often happens that tomatoes outgrow before planting. In this case, the holes for planting seedlings are prepared, focusing on the root system and 1/3 of the stem. As practice shows, on average, the depth of the fossa is 40 cm.

Unlike conventional planting, overgrown seedlings are not planted in an upright position, but slightly inclined.

Thus, more roots are formed on the buried stem, which allows the tomatoes to receive more nutrients.

To avoid decay of the root system from the stem, which will be under the ground, you need to remove all the leaves.

Growing problems

Every summer resident knows that when growing a tomato in a polycarbonate greenhouse, certain problems may arise. Therefore, in order to avoid irreparable mistakes that can reduce the quality of the crop, they must be resolved in a timely manner.

Very often, it is not possible to design several greenhouses in one area, so the question often arises before beginners whether it is possible to combine vegetables in one greenhouse or bring them out to another.

Tomato, Pepper, and Cucumber Compatibility

Tomatoes and peppers are nightshade crops, so they get along well each other in any arrangement of the beds.

The best solution in saving space, as well as for the safety of pepper from aphids, it can be planted between tomato bushes. The situation is different with cucumbers. Draft, which is so necessary for tomatoes, has a detrimental effect on cucumbers. And the humidity of the room for each vegetable should be different.

Tomatoes do well at 40% humidity, and cucumbers at 90 - 100%, so plant these vegetables together undesirable.

Is it possible to plant different vegetables with and without partitions

In a company with tomatoes, you can plant, without partitions, various greens, such as: onions, parsley, lettuce or head salad. Vegetables such as radishes, cabbage and even watermelons go well. But it is not recommended to grow tomatoes together with cucumbers, dill and fennel in a greenhouse neighborhood.

To place these vegetables and greens in one greenhouse, you need to install a plywood or slate partition between them.

Behind the partition on the opposite side from the exit to the garden, it is better to place varieties of cucumbers, dill and fennel. In this case, cucumbers will avoid drafts and receive the necessary moisture from the condensate, and dill and fennel will not be able to suppress the growth of young tomatoes. Tomatoes and other compatible vegetables are planted at the greenhouse entrance.

Whitefly on tomatoes in a greenhouse

The most common pest for tomatoes in the greenhouse is the whitefly. These insects fly on tomatoes in large quantities, harming the leaves with their feces.

How to understand that plants are affected

It is possible to determine the presence of pests by several indicators. The main features include:

• brilliant white bloom on the leaves;
• deformation of shoots;
• the presence of yellow spots on the plant.

At later stages of infection, the tomatoes become black.

Why is a pest dangerous?

The insects themselves do not harm the plants. It is their sweet and sticky waste that promotes the development of sooty fungi. The danger of these bacteria is that they clog pores plants, and this in turn leads to disruption of photosynthesis.

The overgrowth of these fungi ultimately leads to the death of the plant.

How to get rid of midges and what means to fight

Despite the fact that whitefly can adversely affect plant development in a short time, there are several simple methods to prevent this:

But the most effective methods to get rid of and fight the midges are still chemical agents. The most common spray solutions to kill whitefly are:

• Fitoverm - 2 ml. preparation for 1 liter. water;
• "Actellik" - 1 ampoule per 1 liter. water;
• "Aktara" - 1 package for 1.5 liters. liquids;
• Pegasus - 2 ml. 1 liter. water;
• "Confidor" - 1 ml. 1 liter. water.

To consolidate the action of the poison, the treatment by chemists must be carried out 2 times, with an interval of 1 week.

Actellic is one of the most effective preparations for fighting whitefly

In the fight against whitefly, you can apply the following methods:

In order to prevent whitefly plaque, it is necessary to treat the greenhouse in the spring for prevention. To do this, you need to replace the top layer of the soil, and pour over the paths and walls with boiling water.

Having considered all the nuances and tips, beginners in gardening will no longer have questions about how to properly grow tomatoes in a greenhouse. Taking into account the recommendations and observing agrotechnical work, tomatoes will please you with a harvest in a short time.

Good day to all! Today the garden topic will be devoted to such a plant as tomatoes. They have long been considered constant favorites ”in our garden plots. Not a single gardener can do without this culture.

Almost everyone loves this plant with red fruits. They are eaten both fresh and salted, as well as canned. And of course, many summer salads are prepared with their presence. So tomatoes can rightfully be called our folk plant.

But, before you can cook anything from them, tomatoes must be grown. And it's not that easy. There are many nuances in this matter that you need to know about and today we will talk about them.

To begin with, depending on the climate, you can grow them both in the greenhouse and in the open field. But cultivation in the open field implies a fairly late planting and, accordingly, not a quick harvest.

The greenhouse is another matter. If it is also heated, then you can get a harvest, practically, all year round. Usually, already grown seedlings are planted in greenhouses, as well as in open ground. But you can also plant seeds. Moreover, in this case, no picking or any other work with seedlings will be needed.

But let's not rush, let's sort it out in order.

In one of the articles we have already considered,. It also described in detail how it is necessary to prepare seeds for planting - how to soak them so that they germinate sooner. How to grow strong healthy seedlings that will give a good harvest.

And although this is most often done, sometimes they sow seeds directly into the greenhouse. If they are planted in this way, then the planting material still needs to be pre-hardened. To do this, it is placed in a refrigerator for five days, and kept at a temperature of five degrees. And only then they are soaked in gauze in warm water so that the seeds can germinate.

But usually we plant quite large seedlings in greenhouses, sometimes even flowering ones. In order to get one, you need to sow the seeds in early March. By the time of transplanting, the age of the seedlings should be at least 60 days.

Let's just focus on just such plants.

Soil preparation in greenhouses

The soil in the greenhouse is usually prepared in the fall. Sod or humus soil will be good soil. Prepare the soil in several layers. We put straw or sawdust at the very bottom, this will be insulation. Then compost, and on top is the soil itself. The beds are best done with a height of 35 cm.

While digging up the soil, fertilizers such as sodium nitrate, wood ash, potassium sulfate and double granular superphosphate can be applied immediately.

It is also necessary to take into account the factor that the soil in the greenhouse is isolated from the external environment, and therefore various harmful microorganisms, insects, and mold develop in it.

Therefore, after harvesting, before planting a new one, it is necessary to disinfect the soil in the off-season. Copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid solution or dolomite flour are well suited for this purpose. You can also treat the soil with bleach. It is enough to take only 500 g for a bucket of water.

Stir, insist for two hours, then filter and use. Not only the greenhouse itself is sprayed, but also the soil in it.

In addition, the land, one way or another, is still depleted, and therefore every five years it must be completely changed.

It is also advisable to add peat to the soil. In general, tomatoes love clean soil - it should not contain weeds, seeds and, of course, larvae and other harmful insects. It should also contain sand and ash.

When preparing for spring planting, it is necessary to prepare the soil, disinfect the greenhouse and apply the appropriate fertilizers.

It is advisable to make a warm bed for the tomato. It is a fairly thermophilic plant. She has been preparing since the fall.

It all starts with the fact that a trench 40 cm deep is dug, which is covered with polyethylene. Next, a layer of branches is laid. Instead of polyethylene, you can lay the bottom with plastic bottles.

Then we put in organic matter. These are branches from berry bushes, as well as cut tops and so on. Next, the soil is poured directly, after which organic matter is again. The next step is to spill the soil well with water and cover it with earth again.

To give more fertility, you can also repeat two layers: a layer of branches and a layer of earth. Then cover with straw and leave for the winter. By the spring, all this layer cake will rot and the garden bed will become suitable for planting seedlings.

Below is a diagram of one of the common soil mixtures.

Peat, humus and sod land in a 1: 1: 1 ratio. Add 1 liter of sand, 1 glass of wood ash and 1 tablespoon of superphosphate to a bucket of this mixture.

Or, alternatively, you can use store-bought primer.

Planting seedlings with shrub arrangements

So, the bed is prepared. The seedlings were planted in March and have already come to the moment when it is time to transplant them into the greenhouse. True, the sowing time of different varieties depends on their ripeness. Therefore, consider this factor.

The late ones should be sown in February, the mid-ripening ones in early or mid-March, and the early ones in late March.

When the first two leaves appear, the seedlings dive, and when they reach 30-35 cm in height, they can be transplanted into the greenhouse.

Before proceeding with planting seedlings, we prepare the holes, which are then watered with a solution of hot potassium permanganate. It is recommended to do this the day before the expected disembarkation. The depth of the holes should be 15 cm. But sometimes they are dug even deeper, this is done if the seedlings have outgrown or require deepening.

We transplant the seedlings together with a clod of earth. If you grew them in peat pots, then you do not need to dig plants out of them. We plant directly into them.

The holes are arranged in accordance with the selected landing pattern: in one row, in two rows or in a checkerboard pattern.

Depending on the varieties, the pattern can be different, as well as the distance between plants.

It also depends on the size of your greenhouse. For example, for a 3x8 greenhouse, the following planting pattern is recommended:

If the greenhouse is not very wide, then the beds are made along the long walls, where the plants are planted in one row. At the same time, their width is 60-90 cm. Between them, a passage is made from 50 to 60 cm wide. At the same time, early and not very tall seedlings are usually planted in a checkerboard pattern in two rows. An interval of 35-40 cm is made between plants, and a row spacing is 50-60 cm.

Indeterminate and standard varieties of tomatoes, which are more powerful and form in one stem, are planted somewhat denser. That is, the distance between the plants is 25-30 cm, and the row spacing is 45-50 cm.

You can also offer the following landing pattern:

- In two beds, each 1-1.5 m wide and with one wide passage between them.

- In three beds, each 0.6-0.7 m wide and with two aisles between them.

If there are two wide beds in the greenhouse, it is better to plant the plants in a two-line pattern. At the same time, low-growing varieties are staggered with a distance of up to 40 cm in one line, the distance between the rows of one bed is 50-60 cm, and the width of the passage is 80 cm.

Mid-season varieties are planted a little denser - with a distance between them up to 30 cm, the distance between rows is up to 60 cm, and the width of the passage between the beds is 80-90 cm.

And finally, tall varieties are planted up to 50 cm in one line, the distance between the rows is 70-80 cm, and the width of the passage is 80-90 cm.

If you have made three beds, then low-growing varieties are planted in one line with a distance between plants up to 40 cm. Medium-sized ones are planted in two rows with a distance in one row between plants up to 50 cm, and between rows in a garden bed up to 30 cm. this 50 cm.

In this case, the landing pattern is preferable to chess. Tall varieties, planted in one row with a distance between plants of 50-60 cm, and a passage width between the beds from 50 to 60 cm.

Similar planting patterns can be used when planting plants outdoors.

How to care for seedlings and mature plants

And so, the seedlings were planted in their permanent place. I must say that tomatoes are not afraid of transplants, and they adapt perfectly to new conditions. They do not get sick, quickly take root, and the very next day they delight us with their "live" appearance.

However, in order to get a good, healthy harvest, plants need a lot of care. This process includes activities such as garter, feeding, watering, pinching, and pest control.

All this requires certain skills, skills and, of course, hard work and time.

Let's take a look at everything in order.

Stepping

Particular attention is paid to the issue of pinching tomatoes, or simply, the removal of axillary shoots. Why do you need to do this?

The fact is that the appearance of new shoots also leads to an increase in the number of fruits. It seems to be good. However, since the plant spends a lot of energy on growing and ripening, these forces are simply not enough, and the fruits grow very small. In addition, excessive branching obscures the plant, which also does not contribute to an excellent harvest.

Therefore, when axillary shoots appear and reach 2-3 cm, they must be carefully broken out. This procedure is pinching.

In order to distinguish a stepson from a real escape, look carefully: the stepson always grows from the leaf axils. Moreover, the leaf appears first, and then the shoot is higher than the leaf.

It is necessary to start the removal procedure after the first stepson appears under the first flower brush. The main thing is not to allow it to grow by more than 5 cm. For the plant as a whole, this will be the most painless. "Penechek" formed at the place of separation will quickly tighten, and pathogens will not penetrate through it. Leave the "penechek" itself 1 cm in size.

Stepchildren are removed only with their hands, since the tool can damage the plant itself. As a result, the bush itself forms as a result.

Depending on the variety, tomatoes are formed into one, two and three stems.

For greenhouses, the formation of plants in one stem is most often characteristic. As a result, they will be much better lit and not shaded. After the first flowering brush is formed, a stepson begins to grow under it, which must be cut off immediately. The lower leaves are also cut off.

Then all lateral shoots that begin to grow should also be removed. Only flowering brushes should be left.

When forming a bush into two stems, we leave only one strong stepson under the first flowering brush. Everything else that grows below: leaves and side shoots, neatly breaks off.

And the formation of three stems is that, respectively, two stepsons are left after the first flowering brush. Everything else is deleted.

The video below shows the entire process of pinching tomatoes.

Here you can clearly see how stepsons are removed, or rather break out. It also tells about different varieties of tomatoes and methods of forming a bush.

Tying methods

Tomatoes are among those plants that need to be tied up, since their growth can be taller than a human, and reach two or more meters. This is especially true for tall varieties.

Tying involves attaching the stems of the plant to the support. In addition, brushes with fruits are also tied up. It is necessary to carry out tying immediately after pinching and the appearance of an ovary.

Supports can be made whatever you want, from whatever material you have at hand. They can be in the form of trellises, or they can simply be twine lowered down from the ceiling of the greenhouse.

You can also use sticks stuck into the ground as a support. Tie the stem to them. This method is good for undersized varieties.

You can also build a trellis around the bush.

In general, as you can see, there are many options. You have to decide for yourself how best to make a garter - it all depends on the greenhouse itself and on its design.

For example, for small film greenhouses and greenhouses, only individual tying of each bush to its own rail is suitable. At the same time, the variety should not be tall, otherwise it will fall along with the garter.

If you have planted a variety that yields a lot of fruits, then it is better to use a metal frame in the form of a coarse mesh that wraps around the bush (see the picture above).

Tall and high-yielding varieties are well tied to trellises.

This video shows you how to tie up plants correctly.

And also other useful tips are given that will be useful to novice gardeners.

Top dressing tomatoes

An important point in growing tomatoes is their feeding - fertilization. Correctly selected preparations have a good effect on the formation of the plant itself and on the quality of fruiting. However, there is nothing to "overdo" with them.

10 days after the seedlings are planted in the greenhouse, the first fertilizer can be applied. Nitrophoska is best suited, it should be prepared at the rate of 1 tbsp. l. 10 liters of water. And a liquid mullein is also perfect: 0.5 liters per 10 liters of water.

One liter of this mixture is applied under each plant. Ready-made granular fertilizers are also used.

After 10-12 days, re-feeding is carried out. Here, already as a fertilizer, a solution is made containing 1 tsp. potassium sulfate and 1 tbsp. l. fertilizer "Fertility" bought in the store. This amount is dissolved in 10 liters of water and is also applied to each plant. Up to 4 dressings must be done per season.

Prepare organic fertilizer yourself. For this, the weeds from the garden are filled with water in a large container, for example, a 20-liter bucket is suitable. All this is kept in a greenhouse for 2 weeks with periodic stirring. And then you can water the plants with this odorous solution.

During the infusion period, the process of natural fermentation occurs and nitrogen is released. That is, in a natural way we get nitrogenous fertilizer useful for the growth and development of seedlings.

But it should be brought in carefully. If you water with a clean solution, you can simply "burn" the roots and the bush will begin to dry gradually. Therefore, it is diluted with water at the rate of one liter of the resulting mixture per 10 liters of water.

Then the plants should be thoroughly watered and only then add about two liters of the resulting diluted mixture under each bush.

There is one more thing.

In order for all the flowers to bear fruit, they are pollinated by bees and bumblebees. But there are not enough of them in greenhouses, especially when it is very hot. And therefore, some gardeners use such a self-pollination method as lightly shaking the branches. During this action, pollen from some flowers gets to others, thereby contributing to a better ovary.

Also, for the formation of ovaries, fertilizers such as Ovary, Energen or Bud are used. They are bred according to the instructions on the package and sprayed onto the brushes with a spray bottle. In total, you need to carry out 3 - 4 sprays.

It happens that when flowers have already appeared on the bushes, you can notice several especially large ones. They differ from others in that they have a lot of petals, and the shape of the flower itself is rather uneven. You notice them immediately.

So, it is better to remove such flowers. As a rule, a fruit will also form from such a flower, but it is uneven, bumpy, and the plant needs to spend a lot of energy on its growth. While other fruits receive less than they could receive. And as a result, they also turn out to be underdeveloped.

Watering features

That which is impossible to do without is watering. In the early days of planting tomatoes, they are not often watered. The water should be separated and warm - 20-22 degrees.

As soon as the plants begin to grow actively, and before flowering, watering is carried out every 4 to 5 days. It is empirically calculated that it is enough to consume 5 liters of water per 1 sq. m. If, before the next watering, you find that the soil is moist, then the rate can be reduced to 3 liters.

At the time of flowering plants, the rate of water consumption increases to 12 l / 1 sq. m. Tomatoes love moisture, and if it is not possible to do this often, then you can carry out drip irrigation. In this case, moisture falls directly under the plant and the soil is constantly moist.

In addition, to maintain soil moisture, it is mulched with straw or dry grass.

For the convenience of watering, barrels are placed in greenhouses. In them, the water warms up to the temperature of the greenhouse, which has a beneficial effect on the growth, development of the plant and obtaining a good harvest.

The last watering is carried out 14-16 days before harvesting. This process speeds up the ripening of the fruit.

Possible diseases and how to deal with them

The most common diseases of tomatoes in the greenhouse are late blight, fusarium wilting and gray rot.

Late blight - a fungal disease, which is more likely to affect tomatoes growing in open ground. However, it can also appear in greenhouse plants, since the cause of the disease is high humidity. The disease manifests itself in the appearance of gray - brown shapeless spots on the entire plant.

Plant leaves are affected first. And if this is not prevented in time, then the disease will spread to the fruits.

Even if you have harvested a seemingly normal crop, it may not be stored for a long time. After two to three weeks, the fruits will begin to deteriorate, thereby affecting those lying nearby.

To combat this disease, plants are treated with solutions of drugs such as Zaslon or Barrier (preparing: 5 - 7 g / 10 l of water).

Or Fitosporin is used. It is diluted with water in accordance with the instructions, then both the plants themselves and the soil are sprayed with a solution. Phytosporin is a biological compound, and it is not only a means of fighting late blight, but also fertilizes plants.

If it was not possible to cope with the disease, and the plant still got sick, then when removing it, do not put it in a compost pit. It will infect the whole earth. The removed diseased plants should be carefully packed in a bag and taken to a landfill. If left in the garden, the spores will scatter and infect other plants that are prone to the same disease.

Gray rot - another fungal disease. Reason: poor air circulation. Small round spots appear on the plants, which subsequently grow and turn into watery brown spots.

To fight, it is necessary to spray the plants with the same preparations as in late blight (Zaslon and Barrier). In addition, soil disinfection is also necessary, as well as regular ventilation of the greenhouse.

Concerning fusarium wilting, then it usually affects young plants. Signs of this: yellowing of the leaves and their subsequent abscission. To fight, it is necessary to treat the plants with the Barrier preparation at the rate of 20 g / 10 l of water or a 2% solution of copper sulfate. It is necessary to spray no later than two weeks before harvest.

There is also such a disease as brown spot.It also occurs when it is humid enough in greenhouses. This happens in cold summers when it is constantly raining outside. At the same time, it is humid not only under the roof, but also outside, and therefore ventilation does not help.

The disease is expressed in the fact that the leaves begin to dry, curl and become brown. Its difference from late blight is that only leaves suffer, fruits are not affected by it. But leaves are just as important in the formation and development of fruits.

Therefore, if the summer is cool, then it is better to prevent this disease and begin to carry out preventive work ahead of time. To do this, use Fitosporin again, dilute it in accordance with the instructions and spray the plant from all sides, including the bottom of the leaves.

If the plant is already sick, then the drug should be diluted in large proportions, approximately increasing its concentration by two to three times. And spray in several stages, that is, approximately every 5 - 6 days.

Alternatively, you can use similar drugs Alirin and Gamair. They are also of biological origin and are completely safe.

Also, in the fight against any fungal and mold diseases, you can use such chemicals as Hom, Profit-gold, Ordan. They can also fight diseases, but in this case the plant itself will accumulate chemistry, which is highly undesirable.

You should also know that when using such drugs, the fruits can be used for food only after a certain period of time after processing. That is, the drug must "decompose" and become safe. For each of these preparations, the packaging indicates the period when the fruits from the treated plants can be eaten.

By the way, this does not apply to phytosporin. It is completely biological, and the fruits can be eaten immediately after treatment with the drug. Of course, after washing it thoroughly in running water.

Currently, there are certain varieties of tomatoes with increased resistance to fungal diseases. Therefore, if you manage to purchase such planting material, then give it preference. Typically, this information is indicated on the packaging.

Methods for growing tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse

Usually, different greenhouses are used to grow different types of plants. But what if there is no such possibility. It turns out that you can grow, for example, cucumbers and tomatoes under the same roof, if you create optimal conditions for them. For cucumbers, they are warm and moist, and for tomatoes, well-ventilated and sufficiently warm and dry.

One of the preferred methods is to create three beds. One is done in the middle and is reserved for cucumbers, and two on the sides, respectively, for tomatoes. At the same time, in order to provide good lighting for the plants, it is better to plant low-growing varieties here, as well as determinant hybrids with different ripening periods.

It is better to maintain the air humidity averaged for both plants within 70%, the temperature during the day should be about + 25 ° C, and at night + 19 ° C.

Alternatively, you can divide the greenhouse into two parts - cucumbers in one and tomatoes in the other, but each part is fenced off with a plastic curtain. This will create its own optimal conditions for each crop.

With this option, you can also grow tall varieties of tomatoes.

How to grow an early harvest

For growing an early harvest, the same conditions are required as for the rest, but with the only difference that the planting dates will be somewhat different.

Early tomatoes are undersized varieties, among which the most popular are "Chosen One", "Winnie the Pooh", "Hermitage" and "Raja". Or maybe you have some of your favorite varieties. In addition to these varieties, some gardeners also plant small-fruited ones: "Boni-M", "Raisins" and "Salut".

On average, the dates for sowing seeds fall on the end of March-beginning of April. But, these terms are calculated, nevertheless, based on the ripening time of different varieties.

So, early tomatoes turn red 100 days after sowing the seeds, medium ones - after 120 days and late ones - after 130 days. Based on this, the seeds are sown. Therefore, if by the beginning of summer it is necessary to get the first harvest of early tomatoes, then it is necessary to prepare the seeds for sowing already in January, and to plant the seedlings in the ground, respectively, at the end of April.

After the seeds have been prepared and germinated, they can be sown. We already have how to do this, so here I will only talk about the most basic points.

Seeds are planted both in separate containers (plastic cup) and in a common container (box). When planted in a seedling box, the distance between seeds should not be less than 1 cm.

After sowing, the seeds are sprinkled with earth, moistened with a spray bottle and covered with foil. It is advisable to place this mini-greenhouse in a well-lit place - on a windowsill. If there is little light, it is necessary to arrange additional lighting.

The next stage is picking. It is only necessary when growing seedlings in a common box. In this case, they are transplanted either with a clod of earth, or without it.

If you are planting seedlings in open ground, then you should wait until the average daily temperature is above + 12⁰С.

The soil must be prepared no later than 10 days before transplanting the seedlings into the greenhouse. All the nuances of this process were described above. In general terms, this is digging, fertilizing, disinfecting both soil and greenhouses.

After transplanting seedlings, an important point begins associated with caring for it. The main thing is to water on time, but not to allow strong waterlogging. As for feeding, both mineral and organic fertilizers are applied. It should be borne in mind that with a strong pulling of plants, it is necessary to stop mineral feeding and switch only to organic matter. You can also use ash for feeding.

In general, the care is the same as for other tomato varieties. Garter if necessary, pinching with the formation of bushes. If the planted varieties produce a lot of fruits, a garter is necessary, despite their short stature. Otherwise, the bushes may break under the weight of the fruit.

How to grow tomatoes in barrels

Early tomatoes can also be grown using recent know-how. This is barrel growing. Watch a video that explains what this method is.

It also provides a lot of useful tips for growing regular tomatoes. Therefore, the video is useful in any case.

We grow large and sweet tomatoes

All varieties of tomatoes differ not only in size and color, but also in taste. The varieties are bred that have a juicy sweet taste. Below is a small selection of such varieties.

"Orange pear"

This is a hybrid that appeared relatively recently, in 2008.

It can be grown on both poor and rich soils in both southern and northern climatic zones. Best suited for greenhouse cultivation. It is characterized by high productivity and characteristic pear-shaped form, for which it got its name.

"Honey drop"

Outwardly, it is somewhat similar to the previous variety. But it differs in its taste.

It is a liana-like plant that grows rapidly and indefinitely. It is intended only for greenhouses, where it can reach a length of up to 2 m. The leaves of the plant resemble those of a potato. Under optimal conditions, it bears fruit from mid-July to late October.

Tomato "Riddle"

This is an early ripening variety, good in salads and sauces. The bush grows up to 50 cm.

Since the variety is early ripe, no more than 85 days pass from sowing seeds to obtaining technically ripe fruits.
From 1 sq. m. you can get up to 20 kg of harvest. It has a short growing season, compact size and no need to pinch the plant.

"Sugar giant"

The name speaks for itself. Fruits can reach a weight of up to 400 g, and sometimes up to 600 g. This is a fairly high-yielding variety, grown both in greenhouses and in the open field. In the greenhouse, the hotel plant reaches a height of up to 150 cm.

Good both fresh and salted. With proper care, up to 6 kg of the crop can be removed from one bush, or 18 kg from 1 sq. m. When grown, it is quite unpretentious and resistant to various diseases.

Differs in large fruits, resistance to changes in weather conditions. Moreover, if in more northern regions the weight of the fruit may be slightly less, but the taste is absolutely the same, i.e. do not change.

"Raspberry Giant"

Fruits are large, ribbed, weighing up to 300 g. This is an early ripe variety with a growing season of about 90 days. The yield, like that of the previous variety, is quite high - 6 kg per bush. It is grown both in the open field and in the greenhouse.

Differs in large fruits, high yield and resistance to various diseases.

You can try to grow these varieties on your site. And whichever one you grow, they all require care and maintenance. How we take care of the plants, we will get such a harvest.

Good luck in your gardening business! And don't forget to share your experiences with your readers. Write in the comments and like.

Sadly, but summer passes quickly, and the time comes when nothing grows in the garden. You can, of course, make preparations for the winter - marinades, pickles, preserves, but canned food cannot replace fresh vegetables and fruits, especially in early spring, when the body suffers from vitamin deficiency. And how good it is that our ancestors came up with the idea of \u200b\u200bgrowing our favorite crops in greenhouses. You can cultivate cucumbers and tomatoes in the greenhouse not only for your family, but also for sale. We will tell you about how to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse made of polycarbonate or from other materials, how to get a crop of greenhouse tomatoes by a certain date, when to pick tomatoes in a greenhouse, which varieties of tomatoes for a greenhouse are better to grow, how to regulate the fruiting of tomatoes in a greenhouse and much more. in this article.

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Features of growing tomatoes in a greenhouse

Tomato greenhouses

Besides the fact that you will have early vegetables on your table, growing tomatoes in a greenhouse also has the advantage of a richer crop than in the open field, due to the protection of plants from frost and precipitation. But in order to create optimal conditions for the growth and development of tomatoes, you need to properly equip the greenhouse and prepare the soil.

A greenhouse for tomatoes can be film, glass or polycarbonate, and each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. And yet, from our point of view, a polycarbonate greenhouse is preferable to glass or film. The greenhouse frame is best made of aluminum because it is lightweight and does not rust.

Tomatoes require a lot of light, and when choosing a place for a greenhouse, you need to take this into account, because if the lighting is weak, you will have to plant bushes at a considerable distance from each other to avoid shading, which means that you will have fewer tomatoes or you will have to make a large greenhouse ...

Those growers who want to grow tomatoes all year round should equip the greenhouse with a heating system - electric, gas, air or steam. The cheapest will be a stove heating - a boiler that is heated with wood. Gas heating assumes constant ventilation of the greenhouse, while electric heating will cost more than any other heating.

When it comes to watering the tomatoes, it is best to install a drip system using tape or leading a drip to each plant. Special controllers can regulate irrigation automatically.

It is very important to equip the greenhouse with good ventilation, so it is advisable to make several large vents in it, opening which you can save the plants from stuffiness and contribute to their successful pollination. Usually the vents are located at the top and bottom of the greenhouse.

If you already have a greenhouse, and it is more than one year old, you should disinfect the room before planting tomatoes. Greenhouses with timber frame fumigate with sulfur. To do this, in the greenhouse, all the cracks and holes are sealed, metal sheets are laid out on the floor, sulfur mixed with kerosene is placed on them and set on fire. In a tightly closed greenhouse, sulfur should smolder for 5 days, destroying harmful insects, fungi, bacteria, mold and other infections.

In greenhouses with a metal frame, sulfur cannot be burned, since it causes metal corrosion, therefore, disinfection is carried out by treatment with a solution of bleach: 400 g of bleach is dissolved in 10 liters of water, infused for 4-5 hours, the greenhouse is sprayed with a chlorine composition from the inside, and then tightly closed room for 2-3 days.

After processing, the greenhouse is well ventilated and thoroughly cleaned with brushes. The metal parts are poured over with boiling water, and the wooden parts are wiped with a solution of copper sulfate.

Growing tomato seedlings from seeds

Sowing tomato seeds for seedlings

Tomatoes are grown in seedlings. You can sow tomato seeds for greenhouse seedlings at home, or you can immediately grow seedlings in a greenhouse. The optimal period for sowing seeds for seedlings is from early February to late March: late varieties are sown in February, mid-ripening in March, and early varieties at the end of March. Before sowing, tomato seeds must be processed. Pelleted (brightly colored) seeds do not need to be processed - they are already ready for sowing.

Undrained seeds are immersed for 20 minutes in Fitosporin-M solution prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions, after which they are placed in a cloth bag and immersed in a growth stimulator solution for 20 minutes (a quarter teaspoon of sodium humate powder is diluted in 1 liter of water). Then the seeds are sown into light, loose soil - a ready-made mixture from a store like "Living Earth" or "Tomato and Pepper". Humus or turf soil is also suitable for growing tomato seedlings.

In the soil, grooves are made 1-1.5 cm deep at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other, they are spilled with warm water, the seeds are laid in them with a step of 1.5-2 cm, they are sealed, covered with film or glass and placed in a light a place. The box must be installed on a support so that air can penetrate to the root system of the seedlings from below. The room temperature at this stage should be 22-24 ºC.

Under optimal conditions, tomato seeds germinate within a week, and with the emergence of seedlings, the cover from the crops can be removed. The first three weeks, the seedlings grow very slowly, the next 15-20 days, the growth of the leaves of the seedlings is noticeably accelerated, and after 35-40 days from the moment the seedlings emerge, the seedlings reach a decent height and significant leaf size. Now the main task is to prevent the seedlings from stretching too much, and for this you need to organize maximum lighting for it. In addition, crops should be rotated 180 º every day - the illumination of the seedlings should be uniform.

As for the temperature of the content, the first week after emergence, it is maintained at 16-18 ºC in the daytime and 13-15 ºC at night, and then increased to 18-20 ºC during the day and 15-16 ºC at night. This temperature regime is maintained until 2-3 true leaves develop on the seedlings.

During this period of time, the seedlings are watered only 2 or three times - in low natural light in March, moderate watering does not allow the seedlings to stretch too much. The first watering is carried out as soon as shoots appear, the second time in a week or two, and the third one - three hours before the pick. The seedlings are moistened under the root with water at a temperature of 20 ºC.

Before planting in the greenhouse, seedlings are not fed. When the seedlings grow 2-3 true leaves, they are dived into pots 8x8 cm in size, filled with the same soil mixture as for sowing seeds, and then watered with a solution of potassium permanganate, dissolving 0.5 g of the drug in 10 liters of water. During a dive, sick and too weak seedlings are discarded. If the seedlings have managed to stretch too much, you can deepen their stem a little, but not to the very cotyledonous leaves.

The first days after transplanting, the seedlings are kept at a temperature of 20-22 ºC during the day and 16-18 ºC at night, and when it takes root, you can reduce the daytime temperature to 18-20 ºC, and the nighttime temperature to 15-16 ºC. Watering is carried out once a week.

Two weeks after the pick, the first feeding of the seedlings is carried out - a tablespoon of Nitrofoski is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Fertilizer consumption is one glass of solution for two plants.

If there is a tendency to elongation or outgrowth of seedlings, after 3-3.5 weeks, transplant the seedlings into pots 12x12 or 15x15 cm in size, trying not to deepen them when transplanting. Water the seedlings immediately with 22 ºC water, and then water no more than once a week. Transplanting inhibits the growth of seedlings and promotes the development of a strong root system in seedlings. After two weeks, feed the seedlings with a solution of 1 tablespoon of superphosphate and the same amount of Signor Tomato fertilizer in 10 liters of water at the rate of one glass of solution for each seedling.

And after another two weeks, feeding is carried out with a solution of a tablespoon of Nitrofoska in 10 liters of water at the rate of 1 glass per plant. Top dressing is combined with watering seedlings. If the soil in the pots has settled, add some soil mixture to the seedlings.

In April-May, the seedlings begin to harden, opening the window for a short while in the room. Every day, the duration of the hardening session is increased, but in no case do not allow drafts to form in the room. On warm days, seedlings can be taken out on the balcony for a couple of hours. Seasoned seedlings take on a bluish purple hue. Make sure that the soil is moist during hardening sessions, otherwise the seedlings will wither.

Planting tomatoes in a greenhouse

When to plant tomatoes in a greenhouse

By the time the seedlings are transplanted into the greenhouse, they should reach a height of 25-35 cm, they should have from 8 to 12 developed leaves and one or two formed inflorescences. The best seedlings are those that are 50 days old. 2-3 days before planting, 2-3 lower leaves are removed from the seedlings, leaving hemp 1.5-2 cm in length from them. This measure reduces the likelihood of developing diseases, and also promotes good air circulation and allows the seedlings to receive uniform lighting.

In glass heated greenhouses, seedlings are planted at the very end of April or early May, in greenhouses without heating, but with an additional film coating - in the first decade of May, in cold greenhouses without additional shelter - in the second decade of May, and under a film coating in open ground - at the very end of May or early June. The main condition that must be observed: the temperature of the soil in the beds at a depth of 20 cm must be at least 13 ºC, and the air temperature must be within 20-25 ºC.

Soil for greenhouse tomatoes

It is advisable to change the soil in the greenhouse every five years - during this period, despite the applied fertilizers, the soil is greatly depleted. At the same time, in each off-season, the soil should be disinfected with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate or dolomite flour at the rate of 50 g per m².

The beds for early tomatoes are prepared in the fall. You can lay additional insulation under the ground - lay a layer of pine needles, sawdust or straw 10 cm thick, place a ten-centimeter layer of compost on top, and only then lay the ground. The optimal height of the beds is 30-40 cm. For growing tomatoes, humus or sod land is suitable, into which, for digging for 1 m², add 3 tablespoons of double granular superphosphate, one tablespoon of potassium magnesium and potassium sulfate, one teaspoon of sodium nitrate or urea and one and a half glasses of wood ash.

In loamy or clayey soil, in addition to the specified fertilizers, it is advisable to add one square meter of sawdust, humus and peat per bucket. The peat soil is improved by introducing, in addition to fertilizers, for each m2 a bucket of sod land, humus, small shavings or sawdust and half a bucket of coarse sand.

How to plant tomatoes in a greenhouse

Low-growing early ripening varieties of tomatoes, formed in 2-3 stems, are planted in a checkerboard pattern, observing the distance between the bushes 35-40 cm with row spacing 50-55 cm wide.

Determinant and standard species are planted at a distance of 20 cm between bushes with a row spacing of 45-50 cm. Such a planting scheme will allow up to 10 bushes to be placed on one m².

Giant varieties, which it is desirable to form in two stems, are also better planted in a checkerboard pattern, observing an interval of 55-60 cm between the bushes, and 75-80 cm between the rows.

There is a universal scheme that will allow you to grow different varieties of tomatoes in the same greenhouse. Tomatoes are planted in two rows:

• the place of the first row is closer to glass or film. In the first row, with an interval of 35-40 cm, determinant early ripening varieties are planted, formed into one stem;
• in the second row, which is closer to the aisle, tall varieties are planted with an interval of 60 cm, formed into one stem. In the same row, superdeterminant standard species formed in one stem are planted with giants, placing them at a distance of 25 cm from each other. When a second shoot appears on these tomatoes, you need to pinch it, leaving only 2-3 leaves. While the giant varieties will ripen, the standard varieties will already bear fruit.

Such a scheme will allow you to grow in a greenhouse up to 50 early maturing, 40 determinant bushes and 20 giants in one season.

Choose a warm, but not hot day, make holes about 15 cm deep and spill them with a solution of potassium permanganate at a temperature of 50-60 ºC (dissolve 1 g of potassium permanganate in 10 liters of water), spending 1-1.5 liters per hole. Instead of potassium permanganate, you can dissolve 0.25 liters of the Zaslon preparation in 10 liters of water and spend half a liter of this solution per well. Transplant the seedlings directly into the liquid mud along with an earthen clod, and if they ripened in peat pots, then plant the seedlings in the holes directly in them.

If the seedlings are overgrown, it is not necessary to lay them at an angle - this is a common mistake. It is better to dig another hole in the depth of the hole along the height of the pot or earthy coma of the seedling. Place the seedling in the bottom hole and seal it up. After a couple of weeks, when the seedlings have already taken root in the lower hole, it will be possible to cover the upper one with soil.

The seedlings are planted in such a way that the inflorescences of the seedlings are turned into the passage, then the fruits will not be shaded by leaves when ripe. After planting, dig small holes between the seedlings, into which it will be convenient to apply fertilizing in the form of solutions, compact the soil around the seedlings and mulch the surface of the bed.

Caring for tomatoes in the greenhouse

How to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse

It is better not to disturb the tomato seedlings for several days, and after 5-6 days, the soil should be carefully loosened to provide air access to the roots of the seedlings. Simultaneously with the planting of seedlings, it is advisable to install supports on the garden bed, to which you will tie the growing bushes. You can use pegs and trellises to tie the tomatoes.

As pegs, metal rods, rebar trimmings, small-diameter plastic pipes or wooden slats are suitable. The length of the pegs should exceed the bush by 25-30 cm - it is to this depth that the stakes are driven into the ground. Place the stakes next to the stem. The garter begins as the bush grows.

For garters of giant varieties, it is better to use trellises, which can significantly save space - thanks to the trellises, 3-4 bushes can be placed on each m². Drive along a row of stakes 180-200 cm high and pull along them horizontally, every 35-40 cm, steel wire or strong twine, and, as necessary, tuck the growing tomato stems between these horizontal guides, like a braid. Growing tomatoes on trellises allows you to leave side shoots for development, so the yield of the bushes increases.

The first pinching is carried out before planting seedlings in the ground or immediately after it - the lateral processes are broken off, leaving hemp 2-3 cm high on the bush, but in no case are they cut off in order to prevent infection of plants with viruses or fungi. Stepson tomatoes in the morning when the shoots break off more easily. If you are sorry to throw out your stepchildren, place them with the broken end in water, and in a few days you will have seedlings with roots that can be planted in the garden.

In general, pinching tomatoes in a greenhouse should be carried out once a week. After pouring the fruits, remove all the lower leaves from the bushes so that the stems remain bare - this is done to improve ventilation and reduce moisture, which leads to the development of putrefactive processes.

The optimum air temperature for tomatoes in the greenhouse is 20-25 ºC during the day and 16-18 ºC at night. When the fruits begin to pour, the temperature should be within 24-26 ºC during the day and 17-18 ºC at night. Humidity in the greenhouse is desirable to maintain at the level of 60-65%. Regular airing is also a mandatory measure for caring for tomatoes in the greenhouse, this procedure is especially important during the flowering period - there should be no condensation on the film during this phase of tomato development. Waterlogging of the soil makes the fruits watery and sour, reducing their fleshiness.

In order for the ovaries to appear in the greenhouse, the tomatoes must be pollinated artificially, since bees do not live in the greenhouse. On a sunny day, the brushes are slightly shaken, and immediately after that, in order for the pollen to germinate on the pistil, you need to spray the flowers and soil with water through a fine spray, and after two hours to lower the air humidity, you need to open the window in the greenhouse.

Watering tomatoes in a greenhouse

After planting, the tomatoes are not watered for a week or a half, so that they take root, and not stretch out in length. However, the question of how often to water tomatoes in the greenhouse is the most important in growing this crop. The fact is that in different periods of the growing season of tomatoes, the frequency of watering and the amount of water consumed per unit area are different. For example, seedlings are watered sparingly, but often, and adult tomatoes, abundantly, but less often.

You can determine that it is time to water the tomatoes by the state of the upper leaves of the plants: if they curl, it means that urgent watering is needed. But when the tomatoes crack when ripe, it's a sign that you overdid it with watering. By the way, here is the answer to the question that many readers of the site asked - why do tomatoes burst in the greenhouse?

So, before the start of fruit setting, watering should be frequent (once every 5-6 days) and abundant - a water consumption of 4-5 liters for each bush, and the soil should be moistened to a depth of 15-20 cm.And during the fruiting period, tomatoes are watered 2 -3 times a week, however, the water consumption is reduced to 3-4 liters per bush. After moistening the soil, it is advisable to ventilate the greenhouse, since at high air humidity there is a possibility of the spread of late blight and other dangerous infections.

If you have a small greenhouse, you can water it by hand using a hose or watering can. The water for irrigation should be not cold, so it is advisable to keep a two-hundred-liter barrel on the site, in which the water settles and is heated under the sun. Try to water the tomatoes so that the water only pours on the ground around the stem, since even a small drop on a leaf or fruit works like a lens under the sun's rays, leaving burns.

In a large greenhouse, it is more convenient and faster to use the drip irrigation system. Its installation is not very expensive, while its operation will greatly simplify the watering process and free up a lot of time for you. Drip irrigation of tomatoes has the following advantages:

• water is delivered directly to the plant root system;
• water consumption is much less than with manual irrigation;
• plant productivity almost doubles;
• leaching and salinization of the soil does not occur;
• watering can be carried out at any time of the day, without spending any effort.

In very large greenhouses, automatic irrigation systems are installed for industrial use.

Watering can be carried out in the early morning, while the sun is not yet so active, but it must be borne in mind that at this time of day the water for irrigation may be too cold, and it is desirable that it be the same temperature as the soil. By the evening watering, the water has time to warm up, but at night the greenhouse is closed in order to avoid hypothermia, and in a closed room with increased air humidity after watering, there are risks of the spread of putrefactive phenomena and other infections.

If you water tomatoes in the daytime, then drops of water on the leaves, stems and fruits can cause sunburn. Learn all of these risks and design your greenhouse tomato irrigation regime with them in mind.

Top dressing of tomatoes in the greenhouse

Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse involves the introduction of three or four dressings into the soil per season. For the first top dressing, which is applied three weeks after planting the seedlings on the beds, a tablespoon of Nitrofoski and half a liter of liquid mullein are dissolved in 10 liters of water, spending 1 liter of solution for each bush.

A week and a half after the first feeding, a solution of a tablespoon of complete fertilizer and a teaspoon of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water is introduced into the soil at the rate of 5 liters per m². Two weeks after the second feeding, dissolve a tablespoon of superphosphate and 2 tablespoons of wood ash in a bucket of water and water the beds at the rate of 6-8 liters per m².

When the tomatoes ripen in the greenhouse, in order to speed up the pouring of the fruits, add a solution of one tablespoon of liquid sodium humate and 2 tablespoons of superphosphate in a bucket of water to the soil. Solution consumption - 5 liters per m².

Tomatoes in autumn in a greenhouse

To get tomatoes in the fall, until the frost, they need to be planted in a greenhouse in the middle of summer. In order to grow tomatoes until winter, it is important to follow three rules:

• choose the right varieties of tomatoes for greenhouses - early ripening, with medium-sized fruits;
• plant strong seedlings in greenhouses;
• calculate the time for planting seedlings in the greenhouse.

How to choose the right variety of tomatoes for growing in a greenhouse, we will tell you a little later. As for the preparation of seedlings, before planting seedlings in the ground in the middle of summer, you must make sure that they have a sufficiently developed root system. And in order to determine the timing of planting tomatoes, you need to count from the forecasted frost start in the reverse order 60-85 days. For example, if frosts come in late October or early November, then it would be right to plant tomatoes in a greenhouse in August, somewhere in the middle of the month.

Since tomatoes have to be planted in the greenhouse in the heat, they will need regular and abundant watering, at least for the first two weeks, after which you can proceed to the usual soil moisture schedule. Due to the fact that the young bushes will be in intense sun, it will be necessary to install screens with a shading grid or strip cover on the south and west sides. You can also use a less costly method, protecting the seedlings from the sun with old sheets or towels stretched over pegs.

Another method is used to obtain fresh tomatoes until late autumn: summer tomatoes are pruned to stimulate their new growth. In this case, it is necessary to carefully water the cut bushes and apply balanced fertilizers to the soil.

If you are going to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse in winter, when there is little sun, you will have to arrange additional lighting in the greenhouse, and this significantly increases the cost of production. Therefore, it is better to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse in winter. We are often asked whether it is possible to grow tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse, because cucumbers need high air humidity, besides, they are afraid of drafts, and tomatoes prefer dry air. If you do not have the opportunity to grow these vegetables in different greenhouses, then, subject to certain conditions, you can cultivate them in one greenhouse, but this topic is already for a separate article.

Tomato pests and control in the greenhouse

Caterpillars on tomatoes in a greenhouse

Among the pests that oppress tomatoes in the greenhouse, caterpillars of gnawing scoops of various colors, from 30 to 40 mm long, are especially dangerous. They damage different plants, but tomatoes get more from them than other vegetables. Caterpillars do their dastardly work at night - they gnaw the petioles and leaves of tomatoes in the greenhouse. Scoop butterflies are lured by hanging jars of fermenting kvass around the greenhouse - the drink is diluted with water 1: 3 and a little yeast is added.

And how to deal with caterpillars on tomatoes in a greenhouse? Caterpillars can be harvested by hand, or plants can be sprayed with an infusion of wormwood or potato tops or with biological preparations Agravertin and Fitoverm, although it is undesirable to use chemical preparations to destroy gnawing caterpillars.

Whitefly on tomatoes in a greenhouse

Sometimes troubles can be expected from the whitefly - a butterfly about one and a half cm long with a yellowish body and powdery white wings. Whitefly larvae, flat, oval, pale green in color, feed on cell sap, sticking to the leaves. In places where leaves are affected by whitefly larvae, a black bloom from a sooty fungus appears, and as a result, the leaves dry out and die.

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